Overwatered tomato plants

Can You Overwater Tomato Plants?

You can easily overwater your tomato plants, especially after they grow past the seedling stage. When tomatoes get too much water, their leaves turn yellow. After that, the fruit develops cracks and blossom-end rot. Overwatered tomatoes often have a watery flavor and mushy texture. The roots could even start to rot and kill off the entire plant. Aim to give your plants up to 2 inches (5 cm) of water per week. The soil should feel moist but not have puddles. Reduce watering frequency when it rains or if you notice any signs of overwatering.

Table of Contents

When your tomato plants get too much water, they will show all the following signs.

You must correct your watering habits when the leaves start looking poorly to ensure your tomato plant lives a full life. Otherwise, the fruit won’t develop the correct flavor and texture. Plus, the plant’s roots could rot and end up ruining your entire tomato harvest for the year.

Yellow Leaves

Yellow leaves are usually the first sign of improper watering in your tomato plant. The leaves turn yellow due to a lack of oxygen and nutrients. Tomato plant roots simply cannot absorb what the plant needs from the soggy soil. This problem occurs fastest in poorly draining soils, like clay. However, all types of soil can become waterlogged due to extra water. Check how wet the soil feels before watering by sticking your finger about 2 inches (5 cm) into the soil. If it’s dry, you can water. If not, then hold off on watering for the time being.

Cracked Fruit

Cracked fruit occurs as your tomato plant absorbs too much water at one time. As the water goes into the fruit, it expands faster than the skin can grow. Alternating dry and wet periods increase the likelihood of cracked fruit. The cracks encircle the tomatoes and leave the inner fruit exposed until it heals. The risk of diseases, mold, and pest infestation increases as a result.

Blossom-End Rot

Blossom-end rot happens most often when tomatoes regularly get too much water. The excess water washes calcium out of the soil. Plus, the waterlogged roots cannot absorb nutrients well, even if you add calcium-rich fertilizer. The bottom of your tomatoes will turn brown and mushy if the plant does not receive enough calcium. Then, the wounded tissue opens the doors for fungi and bacteria to make matters worse.

Bad-Tasting Tomatoes

Another major sign of overwatering is bad-tasting tomatoes. The fruit cannot develop its signature fresh flavor if it’s always flush with excess water. Instead, your harvest will consist of watery-tasting fruit. Worse yet, the fruit often feels completely mushy and mealy. Other causes of mealy, mushy tomatoes include poor nutrient uptake and high temperatures, especially if grown in a hot climate.

Rotten Tomato Roots

Overly wet tomato plant roots will quickly end up rotting in the ground. Once that occurs, the plant is as good as dead. Without healthy roots, your tomato plant won’t get the water and nutrients needed to survive. You can potentially reverse the damage if you catch the rotten roots soon enough. You’ll need to pull your plants out of the waterlogged soil and replant them somewhere drier.

Overwatering can kill your plants and leave you without a great tomato harvest. So, do all you can to keep them on an ideal watering schedule. Adjust your approach if you notice any of the signs covered above.

How Often Should Tomatoes Be Watered?

Tomato plants prefer between 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) of water per week. In the seedling stage, you may need to water more often. Their small roots can only reach so far to collect moisture from the soil. Each plant grows a large taproot in about 30 days. You should water tomato plants less often once they reach this stage.

The number of times you water each week depends on your climate. In rainy areas, you’ll water less. In hot climates, you may still want to water daily even after the taproot develops. Check the soil with your finger to decide when to water. Wait until the soil feels dry about 2 inches (5 cm) before you water your tomato plants.

How Wet Should the Soil Be for Tomato Plants?

Tomatoes grow best in soil that feels moist but not overly soggy. You should never water your plants to the point that you are flooding the soil. Puddles on the soil surface are a sign that you gave your plants too much water at one time.

Well-draining soil works best while trying to balance your tomato’s watering needs. Compact clay soils won’t drain fast enough to get water to the roots in a meaningful way. Stick with soil that has a mix of perlite, potting soil, and compost for the best results.

How Do You Know If You Overwatered Your Tomatoes?

Yellow leaves are the first sign that you overwatered your tomatoes. Other signs include cracked fruit, blossom-end rot, and watery, mushy fruits. Eventually, giving your plants too much water will cause the roots to rot and kill the plant.

Take the time to perfect your watering techniques and you’ll get firm, flavorful tomatoes every time. Although it definitely takes some fine-tuning, it’s well worth the time and effort required.

How to Repair Overwatered Tomato Plants | Home Guides

By Jenny Green Updated December 02, 2018

Water is essential for healthy growth in tomato plants, but they can have too much of a good thing. Excessive amounts of water drive air out of the soil around the plants' roots, and eventually the roots drown and die. Oddly enough, the effects of overwatering and underwatering can look similar. The leaves and stems wilt, turn yellow and brown, and fall off. Several diseases and pests can also mimic the effects of overwatering. Fortunately, tomato plants are resilient and can return to health with a little coaxing.

Signs of Overwatering

When tomato plants receive more water than they can use, the signs are clear in the plant and the surrounding soil. Early signs of overwatering in tomato plants include cracked fruit and blisters or bumps on the lower leaves. If the overwatering continues, the bumps or blisters on the leaves turn corky. Meanwhile, the roots begin to drown, die and rot, which reduces the amount of water the green part of the plant receives. The leaves and stems wilt and change color, and finally the whole plant collapses and dies. Another way you can tell that tomato plants might be receiving too much water is if a puddle remains on the soil surface for hours after watering the plants, or if the soil feels squishy to the touch.

Other Causes of Wilting in Tomato Plants

Overwatering might not always be the culprit when tomato plants are wilting. For a start, some wilting during the hottest part of the day is normal, and the plants usually recover by evening. If the wilting persists, however, viruses like verticillium or fusarium wilt or pests like the stalk borer might be to blame. Verticillium and fusarium wilt cause yellowing leaves, wilting and death. To check whether either disease is responsible for the death of a plant, cut through the dead plant's lower stem and look for brownish discoloration. Another disease that causes wilting is the tomato spotted wilt virus. As well as wilting, tomato spotted wilt virus causes stunted growth, bronzed foliage and green or brown rings on fruit. Stalk borers are caterpillars that are striped cream and purple, and they cause wilting by tunnelling into tomato plant stems. The caterpillars burrow into tomato plants early in the season, leaving small holes in the stems that are quite difficult to see.

The only option for tomato plants suffering from wilt diseases is to pull up and destroy the plants. To avoid the problem in the future grow plants that are resistant to the verticillium or fusarium wilt. Seed catalogues show which varieties are resistant by including a V or an F after the variety name. Unfortunately, no tomato varieties have resistance to tomato spotted wilt viruses. Tomato plants that were damaged by stalk borers sometimes survive, so adopt a wait-and-see approach if you suspect the caterpillars have affected your plants.

If you have a black walnut tree in your garden, it could be responsible for the wilting in your tomato plants. Black walnut trees contain a chemical called juglone, which is poisonous to tomatoes. The chemical reaches the plants from the trees' leaves and rain that drips from the trees. The damage to tomato plants is irreversible, and the only way to avoid a repeat occurrence is to grow tomatoes 75 feet to 100 feet away from the trees.

How to Save an Overwatered Tomato Plant

Emergency action can help an overwatered tomato plant recover, and then the plant may go on to thrive. If the overwatered plant is in a pot, remove it and gently pull away sodden compost that doesn't contain any roots. Place the root area on two or three newspapers, which helps draw away the excess moisture. To help prevent overwatering the tomato plant again, plant it in a pot that just fits the roots and fill in the gaps with fresh compost. If the plant is in the ground and the overwatering is due to prolonged, heavy rainfall, gently place a clear plastic sheet over the plant, and remove it when the rain stops.

Correct Watering for Tomato Plants

Although tomato seedlings and plants that have been newly transplanted into the garden require constantly moist soil, established plants only require water when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. Water tomato plants in the morning and avoid wetting the leaves to discourage fungal leaf diseases. Strongly growing tomato plants require about 1 inch of water per week, which can be supplied through rain. If it rains heavily for three or four hours, that's probably enough water for your plants for that week. However, if the weather is hot, dry and windy, the plants might need water every day. If you aren't sure when it's time to water your tomato plants, push a trowel into the soil 4 or 5 inches from the base of the stem and check the soil moisture. Only water when the soil is dry to the touch at 2 to 3 inches deep.



Writer Bio

A graduate of Leeds University, Jenny Green completed Master of Arts in English literature in 1998 and has been writing about gardening and homes since 2007. Green's work appears in SFGate, Mom.me, The Pink Plumber and many home services blogs .

Common diseases of tomatoes. Definition of disease, protection, struggle and treatment. Photo - Botanichka

Tomatoes, or tomatoes are a favorite vegetable in all parts of the world. Under optimal conditions, these amazing plants are able to bear fruit all year round, supplying people with delicious high-energy, dietary fruits (berries) containing a large list of vitamins, trace elements, organic acids and other compounds necessary for a person. Like all plants, tomatoes are susceptible to diseases that change the taste and quality of the fruit so much that they cannot be used for food. Some diseases cover tomato plantings, destroying all the work of a gardener in 1-2 days. Tomato diseases are associated mainly with non-compliance with the requirements for agrotechnical cultivation methods. nine0003 Tomato bush affected by late blight. © gardenprepper

Types of tomato diseases

According to the effect on plants, tomato diseases can be divided into 2 groups:

Non-infectious diseases of tomatoes are of a local nature. They are not transmitted to other plants and, when correcting deficiencies in agrotechnical care, they recover without infecting neighboring plants. Violations of agricultural technology may be related:

Infectious diseases of tomatoes, with some external similarity with non-infectious ones, are characterized by focal, rapidly spreading damage to a large number of plants. To determine the type of infection of the culture, with optimal agricultural technology, it is necessary to test the external signs of the disease. nine0003

Please note that if the disease is not correctly identified, plant protection products may not work, especially biological ones.

External manifestations of non-infectious damage to tomatoes

Lack of moisture

The plant loses turgor. The leaves of the tomato hang down and, together with the young stems, acquire a dull green color. May wrinkle and turn yellow. Tomatoes shed flowers and small fruitlets. Reanimate plants gradually. At first, with small watering under the bush, and only after 1-3 days - with a full norm of settled insulated water. nine0003 A sign of insufficient watering of the tomato

Excess moisture

Weeping spots appear at the root collar of the plants, spreading down the stem, they cause rotting of the tomato roots. At the same time, the leaves of the aerial part of the tomato grow dull and fall off. Fruit cracking is observed.

It is necessary to stop watering, dry the bed with plants with dry sand or high-moor peat, other moisture-absorbing material.

Cracking of tomato fruits due to waterlogging. © Andy Kruse

Remember ! Do not water tomatoes with a strong jet of cold water. The reception causes cracking of the fruit and with the ingestion of the infection, an infectious disease of the culture begins.

Unbalanced nutrition of tomatoes

Frequent feeding of tomatoes with high rates of fertilizers, especially nitrogen fertilizers, causes increased growth of vegetative organs to the detriment of crop formation. When making complex dressings, overfeeding with nitrogen is unacceptable. High doses of nitrogen contribute to fruit cracking and secondary infection with infectious diseases. nine0003 Severe growth of tomato due to overfeeding with fertilizers

Sunburn of tomatoes

In hot, dry weather, plants can get sunburn, which is manifested by whitish spots on the fruit. Tomato fruits stop developing, become lumpy, dense, tasteless.

If the region is characterized by long hot periods, it is necessary to provide ways of shading the plants with any material that prevents direct sunlight from reaching the crop (a light canopy made of film, spunbond, etc. ). nine0003 Sunburn on a tomato. © Howard F. Schwartz

Common infectious diseases of tomatoes

If, after adjusting the cultivation of tomatoes, the signs of the disease remain, then the plants are affected by infectious diseases, which are conditionally divided into 3 groups:

Infection of plants can be primary or secondary, which begins indirectly through a non-infectious infection of the plant. nine0003

Fungal infectious diseases of tomatoes

Fungal diseases are caused by a group of pathogenic fungi. Pathogenic microflora, once in suitable conditions, begins to grow and develop intensively, affecting nearby growing plants. For 1-3 days, the mycelium is able to completely destroy the tomato crop. The harmfulness of fungi is enhanced by the fact that it can simultaneously affect the entire plant, including the root system.

The most harmful fungal diseases of tomatoes are:

The main sources of infection are planting material (untreated seeds, diseased seedlings) and soil.

Late blight of tomatoes

Epiphytotic disease in 2-3 days can completely destroy the tomato crop, regardless of growing conditions (open ground, greenhouses, greenhouses). Late blight is also called brown rot. It appears first on the leaves of the lower tier. Browning of individual sections of the lower side of the leaf blade is observed, which gradually merge into one spot. On the browned areas, the mycelium of the pathogen appears in the form of a powdery coating, which eventually germinates on the upper part of the leaf blade. nine0003

Tomato leaves dry out, turn yellow and curl, necrosis of leaf tissues begins. Petioles and stems are covered with oblong dark spots, turning into necrotic formations. The disease passes to inflorescences and ovaries, which gradually darken and dry out. Fruit tissues become coarse, inside they become brown-brown and rot. Seeds and fruits become unusable.

Late blight or late blight on tomato fruits. © Scot Nelson

Do not confuse tomato late blight with powdery mildew. With powdery mildew, there are no brown spots of necrotic tissue. nine0003

Infection usually begins in damp, cold (in the morning) weather (early August) or in excess of humidity with temperature fluctuations. The causative agent of the disease overwinters on plant tops or in the soil. In spring, spores, the remains of mycelium are carried by wind and water.

Curative measures against late blight

Late blight is considered a potato fungus. Therefore, it is never necessary to plant these crops side by side in a crop rotation or use potatoes as a precursor to tomatoes.

Spraying with Bordeaux liquid 2 weeks after planting tomato seedlings or when 2-3 true leaves are formed in non-seedling crops. Spraying is also carried out at the first manifestations of the disease.

Late blight or late blight on tomato leaves. © Scot Nelson Late blight or Phytophthora on tomato stems. © John Crook

Chemical preparations can be used for plant treatments: tattoo, infinito, acrobat, ridomil gold, metaxyl and others. 1 - 2 sprays are enough to destroy the disease. But chemicals can be applied at least 30 days before harvest. In the personal household, chemicals are unacceptable. nine0003

To obtain an environmentally friendly crop, it is better to use biofungicides: mycosan, bactofit, trichodermin, koniothirin, ampelomycin, etc. These biological products can be used throughout the growing season up to the harvest of tomatoes. They do not harm human health. In order not to cause addiction to the drug in plants, it is better to alternate the biological products used or prepare tank mixtures. Each preparation is accompanied by a leaflet or recommendations, which indicate the terms, methods, optimal temperature conditions, doses and phases of plant and soil treatments. nine0003

Read our detailed material: Late blight of tomatoes. Prevention and control measures.

Fusarium wilt of tomatoes

Fusarium wilt is caused by soil fungi that attack the root system of plants. The primary manifestation of the disease is similar to insufficient provision of plants with moisture. The plants wilt, and then the stems at the bottom turn dark brown to black and crack.

The disease spreads to the above-ground mass, affecting first the lower leaves of tomatoes. They become pale green, yellowish, the venation of the leaf blade brightens. Gradually, mushroom hyphae rise up the deformed petioles and stems, capturing all the healthy parts of the tomatoes. During this period, a pinkish coating appears at the root neck of diseased plants. Most typically, Fusarium wilt occurs during the flowering of tomatoes and the formation of fruits. nine0003 Fusarium wilt of tomato. © Clemson University

Remember ! A distinctive sign of Fusarium damage is a pink coating at the root neck of plants.

Soil pathogen overwinters in diseased leaves and fruits. It actively develops at high humidity and sudden changes in temperature. The infection penetrates during irrigation, through contaminated soil, dirty tools.

Medical measures against Fusarium wilt of tomatoes

As with late blight of tomatoes, it is necessary to strictly observe agrotechnical requirements, especially those related to watering and top dressing. Of the chemicals, you can use the same as for the defeat of phytophthora. Since the disease most often affects already adult plants, chemicals should be excluded from the list of protective measures or used only in the early stages. It is better to spray tomatoes with copper-containing preparations (copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid). Of the biological products, Trichodermin, Phytosporin-M is the most active against Fusarium. nine0003 Fusarium on a tomato stem. © seminis

Measures to combat late blight and fusarium, other fungal diseases include compliance with crop rotation, disinfection of seed and seedlings with working solutions of Fitosporin-M. 1-2 weeks before planting / sowing, shed the soil with phytosporin-M, trichodermin, planriz, bactofit, trichoflor, alirin-B, hamair and others. Dig up the soil by 15-20 cm. Before planting, add a biofungicide solution or 1-2 tablets of glyocladin to a centimeter layer in addition to each well. Treat plants during the growing season with the same solutions according to the recommendations indicated on each package. nine0003

Tomato rot. Root and root rots

Tomato root and root rots are caused by several groups of fungal pathogens. The main source of infection is soil, humus heaps, non-sterile substrate in greenhouses. The rapid spread of diseases is associated with excessive watering. They affect the root system and the area of ​​the root collar. If agrotechnical requirements are violated, the disease begins with seedlings and continues throughout the growing season.

Main symptoms of root and root rot:
Tomato root rot

Tomato seedlings develop a thin constriction under the cotyledon leaves, and in older seedlings - under the first pair of true leaves. The damaging effect of rot is manifested in the form of blackening of the root and root zone (black leg), thinning and decay (rhizoctoniosis, or white leg). The growth of the tomato root is limited to the central shoot without lateral and fibrous roots. The root is easily pulled out of the soil. The stems in the root zone acquire a brown color and a macerated texture. On a transverse section of a tomato stem, brown-red rings of diseased conducting vessels are visible. nine0003

A distinctive feature of root rot is constriction in the root collar zone, a change in the natural color of the root. The root is in one rod without lateral roots, at the root collar there is a cobweb or whitish felt coating.

Tomato fruit rot. Blossom end rot of tomatoes, or alternariosis

Some groups of rots cause simultaneous root and stem rot, infect leaves, and pass to fruits. Rotten lesions are not always a sign of plant infection. So, the primary lesion of top rot of tomatoes is a non-infectious disease. Its appearance is associated with extreme environmental conditions (a combination of low humidity at high temperatures), a violation of agrotechnical requirements (excess nitrogen) and is accompanied by the destruction of tomato fruit tissues. The lesion manifests itself on the hands of the emerging fruits. Usually, concentric brown spots appear on the top (tip) of green and ripening fruits, and less often in the pedicel area. The spots may be sunken or flat. They increase in size, there is necrosis or softening and decay of tissues. nine0003 Blossom end rot of tomatoes, or alternariosis

Non-infectious diseases are also with a healthy above-ground mass cracking of the fruit (along the fruit) and "mother-in-law smile" or "cat's face" (often across the fruit). The appearance of cracks is associated with uneven irrigation, an overdose of nitrogen fertilizers in top dressing, as well as with improper use of stimulants (high concentrations).

Pathogenic fungi-saprophytes penetrate into open tissues of fruits, causing already secondary infection of plants. Most often, plants indirectly fall ill with alternariosis, which is called macrosporiosis or dry spotting. Conidia of the saprophytic fungus penetrate the fruits through cracks, rotten areas, form a mycelium that looks like a fluffy plaque. Conidia and fungal hyphae turn dark spots on fruits black. Diseased fruits fall off and serve as a source of soil contamination with a pathogenic fungus. nine0003

Therapeutic measures against Alternaria, or blossom end rot of tomatoes

In order to protect the fruits of the crop from infection with Alternaria and other fungal diseases, it is necessary to take measures to suppress the defeat of tomatoes by blossom end rot. Blossom end rot is caused by insufficient watering (the soil is too dry) and a lack of calcium entering the plant, due to an imbalance in the nutrients during feeding.

One-time application of complex fertilizers does not eradicate the cause of the disease. It is necessary to regularly, according to the top dressing scheme, apply wood ash under the tomatoes, spray the plants with ash infusion (1-2%) or special preparations that contain calcium, boron, phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen, magnesium and other nutrients. Can be used for top dressing Brexil Ca (10 g/10 l of water with an interval of 10-15 days). After watering, apply a solution of calcium nitrate (10 g / 10 l of water) under the root or sprinkle the plants with it (5 g / 10 l of water), maintaining a weekly interval. nine0003

When treating the aerial parts of tomato plants, it is safest to use biofungicide preparations. They can be processed until harvest. The same biological preparations are used as for late blight, fusarium and other fungal diseases. To reduce the frequency of treatments, it is better to prepare tank mixtures from different types of fungi and use a system of tillage (through watering with a bio-solution) and spraying plants at intervals of 7-15-20 days throughout the growing season until harvest. nine0003

Other types of tomato fruit rot

In addition to the top rot, tomatoes are affected by other types of fruit rot. With improper watering, abundant nitrogen nutrition, planting diseased seedlings, tomato fruits are affected by wet rot, including soft rot, the hallmark of which is the wateriness of internal tissues with a sour smell of fermentation, pithy rot, in which the fruits resemble a watery ball, partially covered with fluffy white raid. Black masses at the point of attachment of the tomato fruit to the stalk are a signal for fruit infection with black mold. Ripe fruits after a short storage become watery and soft - the first sign of the transformation of hard (rhizoctonia) rot into soft watery. nine0003 Tomato rot, or Anthracnose

Therapeutic measures against tomato rot
waiting period. These compounds include Quadris (12 ml / 10 l of water), which is used to treat plants 3 times per season, but no later than 30-35 days before fruit ripening. Ridomil Gold MC (0. 25% solution) is able to stop the disease during mass development, and besides, it has a waiting period of only 14 days. Metaxyl suspensions are effective. The drugs Skor, Cabrio Top, Thanos-50, Flint, Antrakol and others also work effectively, which must be used according to the recommendations. nine0003

If there are not many tomatoes on the plot, root rot can be overcome by tillage at planting / sowing with a solution of Previkur. The procedure is repeated 2-4 times throughout the growing season.

In order to protect against rhizoctonia, the soil is treated with a suspension of sulfur-containing preparations (0.3%), including colloidal sulfur, Thiovit or Cumulus.

To increase the resistance to rot, it is effective to feed the plants with the "Drop" preparation (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1 liter of solution under the bush before flowering. It is also obligatory to fertilize plants with microelements and infusions of herbs according to folk recipes. nine0003

Virus diseases of tomatoes

Of the viral diseases of tomatoes, tobacco mosaic virus, tobacco necrosis virus, leaf curl viruses, streak are best known in open and protected ground. Widely distributed, mainly, mosaic and streak.

Tobacco mosaic virus

Mosaic is manifested by discoloration of tomato leaf blades (mosaic pattern of light and dark spots of indeterminate shape). Leaves shrink, curl, become wrinkled. The leaves and the bush as a whole lag behind in growth, turn yellow. They can form a small crop of small tasteless fruits. nine0003 Tobacco mosaic virus


Streak infects the aerial organs of tomatoes. The disease manifests itself on the stems and petioles of leaves in the form of oblong necrotic strokes of brown or brownish-red flowers. Needle-shaped spots appear on the leaf blades of tomatoes, which eventually dry out and become brittle. The petioles break easily, and the fruits are covered with brown furrows, sometimes shiny, of irregular shape.

Treatment measures against viral diseases of tomato

Violation of the ratio of nutrients, high nitrogen content and air humidity accelerates the defeat of tomato bushes and the spread of viral diseases. The fight against viral diseases is preventive measures.

Viral disease of tomato. © Antonio Carlos de Avila

Bacterial infection of tomatoes

The soil is literally stuffed with various types of infections that are carried by soil fungi and bacteria. It is impossible to completely get rid of infection, but with the right methods of protection it is possible to maintain a positive ratio between the necessary and negative microflora in the soil. It often happens that the antifungal measures carried out nevertheless provided effective protection. The plants recovered, successfully form young foliage, young inflorescences appeared, and suddenly a new outbreak of diseases. But this time, the symptoms of the disease are not similar to those of a fungal or viral infection. It turns out that the formed niche was occupied by a bacterial infection, capable of infecting all plants over a large area in the shortest possible time. nine0003

The most serious diseases are bacterioses:

To a lesser extent, tomatoes are affected by bacterial canker and other bacterial infection.

Tomato bacterial wilt

The disease begins on the lower leaves of the tomato and quickly spreads throughout the plant. Leaves without visible changes lose turgor and hang. In the chronic form, longitudinal brown stripes are visible under the epidermis of the stems. Throughout the stem of the tomato, numerous aerial roots are formed in their infancy. When pressed, a cloudy bacterial exudate flows from the damaged stems, and brownish-yellow rings of the affected vessels are clearly visible on the transverse section. On fruits, the outer part of the diseased tissue becomes brown, which becomes denser inside. With severe damage to plants, even seeds become ill. nine0003

Tomato bacterial wilt is characterized by drooping of wilted leaves without color change, secretion of cloudy mucous exudate and the appearance of aerial roots in their infancy.

Bacterial wilt of tomato. © Dan Gill
Tomato bacterial wilt treatment

Preventive measures described above in the sections on fungal and viral diseases are the basis for the fight against bacterial infection.

It is recommended to decontaminate tomato seeds and treat seedlings before planting and before flowering with a tank mixture, including the preparation "Copper Humate". Diseased plants can be treated with a 0.02% solution of chinosol. It is most practical to treat the soil and plants with biological products from the beginning of the growing season until harvest. Please note that the use of drugs on severely affected tomatoes will not provide a bright effect, but will help maintain strong plants and partially clear the soil of a bacterial infection. To do this, the soil, after the removal of diseased plants, must be treated with a 0.2% solution of phytoavalanche, phytoplasmin or VRK. These antibiotics will slow down the rate of infection. A week later, repeat soil treatment with a 0. 2% solution of planriz, mycosar, INBIO-FIT. Plants can be treated with the same solutions according to the recommendations. nine0003

Most often, bactofyte, phytodoctor, gaupsin, phytosporin, which suppress more than 60 soil pathogens, are used for bacterial damage to tomatoes. It is especially valuable that these biological products actively affect fungal infections.

Bacterial black spot of tomato

Bacterial black spot of tomato is one of the most harmful diseases and under optimal weather conditions quickly develops into epiphytotic plant damage. The disease is terrible because it affects the entire plant, starting from the root system. The disease begins with young tomato leaves, on which small brown spots of an indefinite shape appear. Small spots grow, merge into large spots, the center of which stands out as a blackening spot. The spots are necrotic. Leaves, stems, petioles of tomatoes gradually turn black, curl and fall off. On tomato fruits, dark convex dots with a watery border grow into ulcerated rounded formations and ulcers. nine0003 Black bacterial spot of tomato. © myelearnings

Bacterial black spot is characterized by blackening of the center of the spots on tomato leaves followed by tissue necrosis.

The disease develops intensively at high temperature. At low temperatures, the disease stops, but the pathogen remains alive in anticipation of suitable climatic conditions. The viability of the causative agent of the disease persists for a long time. The disease is transmitted through seeds.

Therapeutic measures against bacterial black spot

It is obligatory to carry out all agronomic measures when growing tomatoes. The most effective preventive measures to protect against infection. The preparations used to protect plants from bacterial infection are the same as for the infections described above. It is rational to treat the soil, vegetative parts of plants and fruits with tank mixtures. This will reduce the number of treatments and increase their efficiency.

Tomato bacterial black spot

This article describes the characteristics of some of the most common fungal, bacterial and viral diseases of tomatoes. Using the proposed preparations for the destruction of the described diseases, it is possible to suppress the spread of a number of concomitant (not described) infectious diseases and obtain healthy full-fledged crops.

information articles from the company "August"

Strong and viable seedlings are the dream of every gardener. But to achieve its strength, stability and health is not as easy as it seems. You may encounter such a phenomenon as sluggish seedlings: sprouts wither, weaken and fall to the ground for no apparent reason. Let's figure out why this happens. nine0003

Causes of seedling lethargy

Waterlogging . Excessive watering and lack of drying of the soil weaken the plants and make them more vulnerable. Also, excessive humidity is favorable conditions for the development of fungal diseases that affect the roots and leg of the plant. To prevent the appearance of the fungus, the soil should be cultivated before planting seeds, and seedling weakness can be avoided by observing the optimal irrigation regime. So that moisture does not linger in the soil for too long, it is necessary to ensure that the place where the seedlings are kept is fully ventilated. You can water the plants only after the top layer of the soil has dried. nine0003

Lack of moisture. Plants begin to wilt or dry out if they lack water. You can understand that there is not enough moisture by the state of the leaves: they hang, become lethargic, then begin to dry. The solution is to adjust the watering regime and prevent the land from drying out in direct sunlight.

Lack of food. Lack of nutrients reduces plant immunity, hinders growth and development. The leaves become pale, the bush develops worse, the lower leaf plates may begin to fall off. It is important to determine in a timely manner which component is missing in the seedlings, and introduce a suitable top dressing. You can prevent nutritional deficiencies by carefully choosing the soil and feeding the plants with complex fertilizers in a timely manner. nine0003

Soil acidification . If you sort out with aggressive fertilizers or water the seedlings with unsuitable, too hard water, the soil can turn sour and saline. This manifests itself as a light bloom on the surface of the substrate, later the leaves begin to dry out and turn yellow at the edges. This is due to the fact that the seedlings do not receive the necessary nutrition, the salts draw the juice from the plants. If the soil is acidic, you should transplant the plant and adjust the watering with suitable, not too hard water. The best way out is to take care of the condition of the liquid and the amount of fertilizer in advance to prevent a problem from occurring. nine0003

Sunburn. If seedlings are exposed to direct sunlight, they can dry out and burn the plants. But the lack of light is also bad: it leads to stretching and weakening. It is necessary to adjust the light mode, the best option is diffused lighting.

Infectious diseases. Bacteria and fungi found in soil attack roots and stems of plants. Overdried or overly moistened land, heat, lack of nutrients - all this contributes to the development of infections. You should be as careful as possible: disinfect the soil and seed before planting, select diseased seeds in advance and throw them away. So you can prevent the development of the disease. nine0003

Pests . Aphids, whiteflies, spider mites and other pests live on the leaves and stems of plants, feeding on their juice. Insects and arachnids carry infections, weaken seedlings, lead to drying and loss of entire shoots. Insecticides that destroy pests will help get rid of them.

How to deal with lethargic seedlings

If you find that the plants have begun to wither, or want to prevent such a development of events in advance, you need to take care of protecting them. Attentiveness to seedlings, compliance with the optimal regimen, top dressing and treatment with modern preparations - all this reduces the risk of developing diseases and weakening plants. nine0003

Treatment before planting. In order to prevent soil damage by fungi that will manifest themselves after planting, it is necessary to disinfect it in advance with the help of special fungicides. For example, watering or spraying the soil with Healthy Earth® destroys harmful fungi and reduces the risk of seedling lethargy. Seeds should be inspected before planting, removing those that look sick (stained, underdeveloped). To stimulate growth, speed up rooting and strengthen plants, you can soak the seeds in nutrient solutions: this will help the seedlings grow faster and more confidently. nine0003

Top dressing . To provide plants with all the necessary nutrients and trace elements, you should practice feeding with special means. They are specially designed to strengthen the stem and roots, stimulate growth, increase immunity. The use of top dressing will help to avoid weakening the seedling, which makes it vulnerable to disease and leads to lethargy.

Watering mode. You can not water the plants too often, then the soil will be waterlogged and become a favorable environment for the development of infections. It is best to water when the top layer of soil has already dried out, and do not forget about ventilation: without it, the liquid will linger. But too rare watering leads to plant weakness, reduces immunity and slows down growth, and may even lead to drying of sprouts. It is necessary to establish the optimal irrigation regime. Keep an eye on the quality of the water so that it does not turn out to be too hard: salinization of the earth will lead to the fact that the plants will begin to receive less nutrients. nine0003

Light mode. Be careful about the amount of sunlight. It should not be too small, otherwise the sprouts will begin to stretch, while they will stop growing in breadth, remain weak and pale. The abundance of the sun can lead to sunburn, so make sure that the light is diffused and does not burn the tender leaves of the seedlings.

Insecticide treatment. If you notice small insects or traces of cobwebs on the leaves, then the seedlings were affected by pests. They suck the juice and weaken the plants, and can also be a source of infections, they must be dealt with. Modern insecticides will help to destroy insects without harming the plant itself. Following the recommendations will help to cope with lethargy. The main thing is to track its cause in a timely manner and prevent a situation where it is too late to do something. nine0003

Seedling protectants

The August company offers a variety of products that will protect seedlings from stress, increase their immunity, strengthen roots and accelerate development. Also in the manufacturer's assortment are drugs that fight diseases and pests, they will help prevent lethargy.

"Reggae®". This preparation is a retardant that prevents the shoots from being pulled out. Thanks to its use, the bush remains squat, the growth energy goes into the thickness of the stem, the quality of the leaves and roots. The result of using the product is powerful and strong bushes with a strong stem that does not bend or break under load. Growth Regulator can be used in one of two ways: nine0003

Processing occurs when the plant has thrown out 2 to 4 leaves. The product is diluted in a proportion of 1 ml per 1 liter of water.

Healthy Earth®. Means is intended for processing the soil from fungi that may be in it in a dormant phase. 2 ml of the drug is diluted in 1 liter of water, after which the soil is treated with it. This is done before or immediately after planting the seeds. Thus, the prevention of various rot and black leg is ensured. nine0003

"Ribav-extra®". In order for seedlings to germinate better, soaking seeds in a solution of this agent is practiced before planting. This is a growth stimulator: the seeds treated with it germinate faster, they have a more powerful root system, the sprouts themselves are stronger, take root and take root better. Processing prevents weakness. 1-3 drops of the drug should be diluted in 200 ml of water, pour gauze or filter paper with the resulting solution, put seeds on it and leave for about 6 hours. After that, the material is ready for planting. nine0003

"Aminozol®". Means - a complex of amino acids that strengthen and additionally feed the plant. It can be used to soak seeds before planting in the same way as the previous preparation. The ratio is 2 ml of the product per 200 ml of water, soaked seeds should be left for a period of 12 to 24 hours. Also used as top dressing. During germination, it is necessary to water the plant under the root with a solution in a ratio of 50 ml / 10 l, in the vegetation phase, treat it every 20 days with a solution in a ratio of 100 ml / 10 l. nine0003

Biotlin®. This insecticide will help control aphids and whiteflies and should be sprayed on affected plants. The drug does not harm seedlings, acts within a few hours and is not addictive in pests.

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