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Cosmos plant in pot


How to Grow Cosmos in Containers

Are you a wildflower fan without a meadow of your own to seed? Create your own mini potted display by planting cosmos in containers instead.

Their wispy, fernlike clouds of foliage and showy blossoms that seem to float ethereally above them will surely satiate the desire for summer blooms buzzing with bees and butterflies.

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How do you plant cosmos in a container? It’s easy, and there are several advantages to growing them in pots that we’ll cover in detail in this guide.

Come and learn all about it, including which varieties are best for the job! Here’s what you’ll find as you read on:

What You’ll Learn

For centuries, cosmos have been a favored addition to the garden in many parts of the world.

Their charm is obvious – with bright, airy petals in a wide variety of tones that attract pollinators and add the cheer of spring and summer to the landscape.

Some species aren’t the best choice for growing in pots because they don’t support themselves well, leaning over as the top heavy blooms weigh them down, but there are a few that make gorgeous candidates. We’ll cover those in detail a bit later on.

One common question is often asked by gardeners: are cosmos annuals or perennials?

Depending upon which species you choose, there are both annual and perennial types.

Cosmos are suited to USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 11. They greatly prefer the warmth and sunshine of late spring through late summer, and even the perennials among them don’t overwinter well in cold climates without protection.

Because they often self-seed, annuals may give the impression that they’re returning each year. Seeds can also be collected for planting the following spring, or the self-seeded containers could be stored over the winter months in a protected location and returned outdoors to sprout on their own.

If you’re looking for perennials, there are fewer choices available.

Let’s talk about what makes these flowers a perfect choice for container growing next.

Why Choose Container Growing?

Obviously, if you don’t own your yard or you don’t have one at all, it takes a little creativity to have a flower garden.

Containers make that possible without the commitment of leaving it all behind or having to tear it out when you move.

If space is limited and growing food crops is more important, they can be potted and placed near those crops for improved pollination as they attract many types of beneficial insects.

Specimens such as these will receive better protection from the cold when they can be moved to a sheltered area, so those perennials will actually stand a chance of survival until next spring.

Bear in mind that a potted root system is more exposed than in-ground plantings, with conditions equivalent to about two zones cooler. Luckily, they can simply be moved into a shed or garage to prevent damage when temperatures dip below 40°F.

If it turns out that the location you’ve chosen doesn’t get enough sun, or you want to make your gorgeous blooms more visible on the porch or patio, many planters are mobile, so they can be moved wherever you’d like.

A well-cared-for pot can also be reused each year after some sanitation, becoming home to generations of lovely blossoms.

It’s easier to keep a small amount of substrate watered in times of drought, and much less likely that ground-dwelling pests such as voles will munch on the roots and foliage.

Finally, it’s much easier to amend and refresh potted soil than it is to deal with issues in the garden plot. If maladies such as infestation or disease take hold, it’s simple to dump the soil, sanitize the pot, and start fresh.

There’s a vast selection of pots on the market, designed specifically for gardening, but upcycled containers such as barrels or washtubs can work equally well. How can we determine which type is best for this purpose? Let’s take a look.

Which Container Is Best?

Because cosmos are very drought tolerant and heat loving, their roots tend to reach rather deeply. A vessel of appropriate size should allow at least 12 inches of depth and be equally wide, or wider.

Be sure to choose a wider, or heavier, planter if you choose to grow taller species, as a pot with a narrow footprint can easily topple over and cause damage.

A vessel such as this absolutely gorgeous ceramic Paloma planter is the perfect choice since it has a wide base that will keep it firmly seated. It’s available from Terrain.

Ceramic Paloma Planter

A container that allows for transpiration, such as clay or concrete, is best to allow airflow. Drainage holes are also a must as soggy soil will lead to certain doom.

Plastic or resin pots should be avoided, as they tend to hold moisture for a longer period and the damp environment invites root rot and pathogens that can spread disease.

How to Prepare Your Container

Planters that are being reused should be thoroughly sanitized prior to planting. Pest eggs and pathogens are known to persist in crevices and under the rim between uses.

Scrub out any old soil with a brush and some soapy water. A new pot may be less likely to harbor pests or pathogens, but it isn’t impossible, so give those a scrub and a rinse as well.

Prepare a solution of nine parts water to one part household bleach and submerge the entire pot for 15 to 30 minutes. A deep storage tote full of this solution provides ample space to allow for full submergence.

Remove the container and rinse it thoroughly to remove the bleach; even trace amounts can cause damage to the roots.

Now that the vessel is prepared, choosing your substrate is the next step. Many varieties of cosmos originated in Central America, and they prefer sandy soil that is low in nutrients.

A mix of one part potting soil or coconut coir to one part sand is perfectly adequate, as anything richer or more dense in organic material can lead to weakened stems and low blooming rates.

With the vessel lovingly prepared, it’s time to add the specimen that will call it home.

How to Grow

Unlike some flowering plants, established cosmos will happily bloom and grow with a great deal of neglect. Soil that’s lower in nutrients is preferred, and they won’t wither and die without daily watering.

Seedlings can sometimes be purchased from a garden center in early spring, but more often than not, seeds will be the starting point. Bare root tubers, such as those for the chocolate species (C. atrosanguineus), are also a possibility when planting.

They grow very quickly – from germination to blooming, it usually only takes a few weeks.

Planting

Bare roots should be soaked in warm water for an hour or two to rehydrate them prior to potting.

Purchased or saved seeds can be started indoors, or you can simply press them about half an inch deep into the soil in a prepared pot to skip the transplanting later on. Cover them lightly with soil and water them in well.

Seeds started indoors four to six weeks before the last frost date will typically bloom earlier in the season, but those started outdoors won’t need hardening off.

Space dwarf varieties about two to three inches apart, while taller species should be spaced eight to 10 inches apart, or planted individually in containers.

Place the pot in a warm, sunny spot away from harsh winds where the seedlings will receive at least six hours of sunlight per day, or harden off seedlings and transplant them to a container in the same type of location.

Until the roots are well established, which can take four to six weeks, seedlings should be bottom watered or misted daily to keep the soil moist. Be sure that excess moisture is draining off, as standing water or soggy substrate will surely kill the seedlings.

After about six weeks, gradually taper off watering until the soil begins to dry out in between. If extreme heat or a total absence of rain continues for more than a few days, begin watering more often.

Staking

While they are not climbers, taller species may need some support to remain upright. The long stems don’t always fully support the top-heavy flowers.

It’s best to add supports before the seedlings reach eight to 12 inches in height, as the bushy foliage can be delicate and difficult to weave through.

I prefer to use a few bamboo stakes interwoven with green twine as brown or white twine can look obvious and detract from the beauty of the flowers.

Green Jute Twine

Green jute twine in a two-millimeter width can be found in a roll of 54 yards from Turbokey via Amazon.

Press the bamboo stakes in deeply prior to planting or while seedlings are still small to avoid damaging their roots. Wrap the twine in a square or star-shaped pattern between the stakes to give the stems something to lean against as they grow.

Watering

Feel the surface of the potting medium daily, especially during periods of high heat. If the top two inches or so feel completely dry to the touch, water deeply and allow the excess moisture to drain off.

In the absence of rain, most container-grown cosmos will need water about twice per week – but again, weather conditions and temperatures can change that schedule.

Providing consistent moisture will encourage more prolific blooming.

Pruning

Even though the main stems are rather woody, cosmos are considered herbaceous and they will not need pruning.

Bear in mind that some species can reach an excess of five feet in height, so if size is a concern, choose a dwarf or more compact variety instead.

They do, however, benefit from taking regular cuttings. Snip stems at eight to twelve inches in length and use them as cut flowers in bouquets and arrangements. Trimming regularly encourages the production of new buds.

Deadheading should also be done regularly if you don’t plan to collect seed for planting the next season.

Winterizing

As I mentioned, perennial types will need some winter protection in regions where winter lows regularly dip below about 40°F.

Moving the container to a sheltered location is the safest bet since the root system is more exposed to the elements in a pot than it is in the ground. You can also choose to wrap the pots with burlap or bubble wrap for extra protection.

Perennial species will generally continue to bloom until mid- to late fall in regions that experience cold winters. After the last blooms have withered, trim the dead stems back to the rhizome and wrap the pot, then move it to shelter.

In the case of annuals, if you decide to allow them to self-seed in their containers, move these to a basement or garage for the winter months, and take them out when spring rolls around.

Repotting

Repotting is not generally necessary with annuals, unless you started with a vessel that is too small for the mature size of the root system. Perennials may need to be repotted periodically to maintain adequate root space and freshen the substrate.

Start by preparing the new vessel as previously described. Add some fresh potting medium to the bottom to elevate the root system so it sits just below the brim.

Before moving the plant to its new pot, be sure to give the roots a quick visual check to make sure there aren’t any that are dead or rotting. Trim away any that you see, then place the root ball into its new home and backfill around it with fresh medium.

Water it in well to settle and move it back to its sunny location.

Growing Tips

Cultivars and Species to Select

If you’ve read our guide to 25 of the best cosmos cultivars, you already know that there are many gorgeous options that can be grown in containers.

There are some cosmos that are best suited to this container planting because of their more compact growth habit.

Whereas some species tower over other specimens in the garden at a height of five feet or more, some are dwarf varieties that remain under two feet in height.

Cosmos are also heat and drought tolerant, and in regions with mild winter weather, they may continue to bloom into fall. Here are just a few of the best types for potting:

Capriola

Known as a semi-dwarf type, C. bipinnatus ‘Capriola’ tops out at less than 30 inches in height.

‘Capriola’

The three-inch blooms are white to pink with deep pink to red tips and appear between June and September, floating above feathery green foliage.

Packets of 50 seeds are available from Burpee.

Rose

Another dwarf cultivar, C. bipinnatus ‘Rose’ adds soft pink-purple color to the potted garden.

The two- to four-inch blossoms have petals that are slightly darker in the centers, with stems reaching a height of up to 24 inches, although they’re often shorter.

‘Rose’

This early-season cultivar begins setting buds in spring, so their blooming season can be several months longer than what you’ll see with some other varieties.

‘Rose’ seeds are available by the packet, by the ounce, or by the quarter-pound from Eden Brothers.

Sulfur

If the pastels don’t do it for you and you want something bold and bright, C. sulphureus aka sulfur cosmos is the one for you! The bright yellow-orange, marigold-like blooms float atop dwarf stems that reach only 24 inches in height at the most.

This species fits well in planters and containers, it rarely needs staking, and has slightly smaller blooms than C. bipinnatus. Sulfur cosmos is tolerant of temperatures over 100°F, so it’s a great choice for southern gardeners!

Sulfur Carpet Mix features bright orange, red, and yellow blooms on compact plants that reach just 12 inches tall.

Sulfur Carpet Mix

You can find seeds available in a variety of package sizes from Eden Brothers.

Managing Pests and Disease

Cosmos grown in containers are rarely affected by pests or disease, although aphids, spider mites, and thrips can sometimes make an (unwelcome) appearance. Fortunately, they’re also considered deer resistant.

Diseases are a relatively rare occurrence, but afflictions can include aster yellows and powdery mildew. Smut can occasionally become a concern as well.

Learn more about the pests and diseases that you should keep an eye out for in our complete guide to growing and caring for cosmos.

Blossoms Floating Like Stars in the Sky

I’ve never been able to decide which type of cosmos is my favorite. Each has its own appeal, from soft, muted pinks and purples to the deepest crimson, to bright, pure white – but no matter which I’ve planted, they all make stunning additions to my garden.

Even if you already have some growing elsewhere in your landscape or garden, a few potted beauties never hurt!

Are you growing cosmos in containers? We’d love to see what you’ve got growing – please share your photos in the comments below! Questions are always welcome as well.

For more information on growing flowers in containers, check out these titles next: 

Potted Cosmos Flowers - How To Grow Cosmos In A Pot

Home › Ornamental Gardens › Flowers › Cosmos

Cosmos

By: Jackie Carroll

Image by peplow

If you’re looking for container plants loaded with pretty blossoms throughout summer and well into fall, cosmos is a great choice. Growing cosmos in pots is easy and you’ll be rewarded with plenty of flowers for cut or dried arrangements, or you can simply enjoy them in their pot. Keep reading to learn more about container grown cosmos.

Container Grown Cosmos

Cosmos flowers can be successfully grown in containers. Species plants can grow as much as 6 feet (2 m.) tall, so look for dwarf or compact cultivars for containers.

Of the 20 species of annual and perennial cosmos flowers, cultivars of C. sulphureus and C. bipinnatus are best suited to containers. C. sulphureus comes in shades of yellow, orange, and red while C. bipinnatus blooms in pink and rose tones.

Can Cosmos be Grown in Containers of Soil from the Garden?

Two things happen when you fill a container with regular garden soil. First, it compacts, making it hard for water to drain and for air to get to the roots. Second, it pulls away from the sides of the pot so that water runs down the side of the pot and out the drainage holes without moistening the soil.

A general-purpose potting medium manages water efficiently and most commercial potting mixes include enough slow-release fertilizer to feed the plant for the first half of the season.

If you prefer, you can make your own potting medium. Mix equal parts of good garden soil, peat moss, and either vermiculite or perlite. Add some slow-release fertilizer and fill the pot.

How to Grow Cosmos in a Pot

Choose a pot at least 12 inches (30.5 cm.) in diameter with several drainage holes in the bottom. Heavy pots are stable and can help prevent the plant from toppling. If you use a lightweight plastic pot, place a layer of gravel in the bottom of the pot to add weight before filling it with potting mix.

Scatter the seeds thinly over the surface of the potting soil and cover them with one-third to one-half inch (around 1 cm.) of additional soil. When the seedlings are 4 inches (10 cm.) tall, thin the plants by clipping out the unwanted seedlings with scissors. Container grown cosmos looks best when you thin the plants to about half the distance recommended on the seed packet. When your seedlings are off to a good start, set the pot in a sunny location.

Water container grown cosmos when the soil is dry to a depth of two inches 5 cm.). Drench the soil and then allow the excess water to drain through. After about 20 minutes, empty the saucer under the pot. Cosmos doesn’t like excess moisture and the roots may rot if the pot is left sitting in a saucer of water. Pots that sit in sunny locations dry out quickly, so check the soil moisture daily.

Cosmos plants react to rich, fertile soil or an abundance of fertilizer by growing tall and leggy. When growing cosmos in pots, a light feeding with slow-release fertilizer lasts through the entire season. If you prefer, you can use a liquid fertilizer mixed at one-quarter strength once every week or two. If the plants start to look lanky, cut back on the amount of fertilizer.

Pinch off dried leaves and faded flowers to keep the pot looking neat. Regular deadheading encourages the plant to produce more blossoms. If the stems become leggy with few flowers in midsummer, cut them down to about one-third of their height and let them regrow.

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Cosmos on the balcony - zdeskrasivo.

ru

If you are looking for flowers for a sunny balcony that bloom in summer and autumn, then kosmeya is what you need. Cosmea on the balcony grows well in containers, and planting and caring for it is not tricky. A special plus will be the resistance of cosmea to diseases and resistance to drought and the open sun.

Cosmos on the balcony

Cosmos on the balcony has its own nuances.

Species plants can grow up to 2 meters tall, so look for dwarf or compact varieties for a box or pot. Suitable varieties for the balcony are sulphur-yellow cosmea, it has yellow shades of flowers and double-pinnate cosmea, which is represented by shades of pink. These varieties have a huge number of both tall and compact forms. For example:

Recently he called me and said that a whole car of excellent black soil had been brought to him and he was ready share with me.

He usually sees a large number of people on my balcony. containers with flowers and wanted to help with the purchase of soil for them. nine0003

What happens when you fill a container or pot with ordinary garden soil?

  1. First, in a pot, it becomes denser and makes it difficult for air and water to drain.
  2. Secondly, the earth ball, compacting, moves away from the walls of the container and when watering, the water just immediately goes down without soaking the root ball.

Universal potting soil has friability, does not gather in a lump and, in addition, has a supply of slow mineral fertilizers that are released gradually and give the plant everything it needs in First season. nine0003

If you want to make your own container soil from garden soil, you need to add peat, as well as vermiculite or perlite.

What kind of pots to use

Even the most dwarf cosmos grow well. Therefore, choose pots with a diameter of at least 30 cm, and weight the bottom of the pot with stones or gravel so that it does not tip over.

Cosmos on the balcony planting and care

Planting and care for cosmea on the balcony is slightly different from planting in the ground .

Sowing

Scatter the seeds on the surface of moistened soil in pot, press down a little and lightly sprinkle a layer of soil on top of approximately in 5 mm. Cosmea seeds are light-dependent, if I may say so. They are growing if there is light, so you can’t bury them deep. Well, it makes sense, after all. Cosmea reproduces by self-sowing so much that it is able to grow like a weed. AT Under natural conditions, the seed falls to the ground and germinates on the surface.

Pick

Seeds germinate in 6-12 days. When the seedlings release their pinnate leaves, they will need to be thinned out. In the photo with white kosmeya in a pot, you can see at what distance the flowers should grow.

Photo from gardeningknowhow.com
Click to enlarge

Or refer to the recommendation to leave half the distance between seedlings as indicated on the package. When your cosmos grow well after picking, put them in the sun.

Watering

Water the grown kosmeya only after as the top layer of soil dries out by 2-4 centimeters. Check after watering pan and drain the water. It is impossible that the roots remain in the water and rot. This the basic requirement for the care of potty pets. nine0003

In the confined space of a container or pot on air, the soil dries faster, so this must be constantly monitored.

Features of nutrition

Cosmos do not like heavily fertilized rich soils. In this case, they become lanky and do not bloom.

Photo from forum.bestflowers.ru
Click to enlarge

If you used soil for potted plants, then it is better not to use any fertilizers anymore. If you are going to add fertilizer to the soil, it is best to dilute the fertilizer by half or more. But if the plant begins to stretch, do not water with this solution anymore. nine0003

The beauty of cosmos is in your hands

Remove dry leaves and withered flowers to keep the bushes looking neat and well-groomed. Trimming and pinching will make the bush more fluffy. In the middle of summer, you can cut off a third of the whole plant, and it will fluff up and give flowers again.

photo, planting and care, growing from seeds, description of varieties and species

Botanical name : Cosmos.

family. Asters or Compositae.

Origin where grows. Wild species were found in Mexico and brought to Spain by seafarers in the 16th century. Florists paid attention to these plants only in the 18th century - they began to be bred in England.

1. Description - what it looks like


Cosmomile, garden chamomile, cosmos are annual or perennial herbaceous plants with erect, slightly branched stems.

Openwork leaves, green, deeply cut to the veins, sessile, arranged in opposite pairs. nine0003

During the flowering period, plants decorate themselves with flower baskets in white - pink, less often - yellow - orange tones. Flower heads up to 10 - 12 cm in diameter are cup-shaped, in fact, they are inflorescences and resemble chamomile. During the flowering period, many varieties and species have a subtle, but very pleasant sweetish aroma.

Terry cultivars are currently bred, which are distinguished by very lush inflorescences. The genus includes about 40 plant species.

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Height . Plants can reach a height of 180 cm. Miniature varieties and species often do not exceed 30-40 cm.

frosts. It takes about 7 weeks from sowing seeds to the formation of the first buds.

Cosmos does not bloom when grown in the shade, abundant fertilizing, excessive watering. nine0003

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3. Planting and care in the garden

The plants are showy yet extremely unpretentious in the garden. It is possible to sow seeds at the end of April or the first half of May immediately into the garden, however, the first buds will form in such plants only in July.

Growing seedlings at home can speed up the onset of flowering - this process is described in detail below.

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Cosmea easily propagates by self-sowing and can grow in the same place from year to year - it is worth considering this feature of the flower and planting it where it will not interfere with other plants.

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3.1. How and when to plant

Cosmea seedlings are planted in open ground in the second half of May, preferably after preliminary hardening for a week. Bushes at least 6 - 8 cm high are suitable for growing in the garden.

For hardening, seedlings are taken out into the fresh air during the daytime and the time spent in the garden is gradually increased.

For planting, it is better to choose cloudy weather or spend it in the evening so that the plants do not lose too much moisture and keep a cheerful look. It is worth remembering that the onset of night frosts can destroy young plants.

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If the plants were grown in plastic cups or flower pots, then they are first watered very abundantly at night to soften the earthen ball. The site is dug up, weeded and the soil surface is leveled. When planting, you can apply a little flower fertilizer with a high content of phosphorus and potassium. nine0003

Planting holes are prepared by maintaining a distance between them corresponding to 2/3 of the height of adult plants - this information can be found on the seed packaging. The depth and width of the holes should slightly exceed the root ball of the seedlings - usually it is 30 - 35 cm, and a small drainage layer in the form of gravel or river sand 2 - 3 cm high can be placed on their bottom.

You can put several plants in one hole at once - this will help tall varieties to support each other during growth. Also, a cramped planting will contribute to more abundant flowering - fewer flowers will appear in free conditions. nine0003

Bushes in peat pots are planted together with containers - after a while the peat will simply dissolve in the soil.

Plants are taken out of plastic containers together with a clod of earth and, without destroying it, seedlings are sent to planting holes. The bushes crossed in this way will quickly start to grow and bloom.

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When planting, make sure that the flowers in the open field are at the same depth as in pots. Around the plant, the soil is slightly compacted and the flowers are watered. nine0003

After planting, the base of the plants can be mulched with a layer of straw or sawdust. You can also use tree bark or grass clippings as mulch. Only planted seedlings, if possible, are shaded from direct sun for 5 to 6 days.

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Further plant care will consist of timely watering, loosening the soil and weeding from weeds. They feed cosmea only 1 - 2 times per season. Tall plants must be supported. nine0003

With the first night frosts, sometimes as early as September, annual plants turn brown - such bushes are sent to the compost pit, and the site is dug up. Perennials should be pruned and covered for the winter.

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3.2. Soil for cosmea

The flower is very undemanding to soil composition. Plants do not like poorly drained, dense soils that retain moisture after rain. Flooded areas and areas with surface groundwater are not suitable for growing cosmos. nine0003

River sand is mixed into the ground to improve the drainage capacity. The pH should be close to neutral or slightly acidic, ranging from 6.0 to 6.8.

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3.3. Watering and feeding

Only young and only planted plants need timely watering. Mature bushes will tolerate a small drought more easily than a large amount of water.

Water the flower in the morning or in the evening, using warm and settled or rain water. It is not advisable to irrigate during the daytime - moisture will evaporate from the surface of the earth without having time to soak into the soil. In addition, with such watering, burns may occur if the sun's rays fall on wet leaves. nine0003

Drying out of the soil during the flowering period can lead to a reduction in the appearance of new buds.

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Kosmeya does not like a lot of fertilizers and reacts to excess nutrition with an abundant increase in green mass, which is at the expense of flowering. For the same reason, nitrogen fertilizers can be used for fertilizing only when growing seedlings and in very low concentrations.

Potassium-phosphorus mineral compositions are used only 1-2 times per season. Do not use organic matter as a top dressing - it will lead to violent growth of leaves and weaken flowering. nine0003

As soon as the first buds have begun to form, 1 - 2 foliar top dressings with such preparations as Bud and Ovary can be carried out - they will stimulate the abundant formation of flowers. Apply drugs directly to the leaves - in the morning or in the evening with a spray bottle.

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3.4. Pruning, pinching

Cosmea branches on its own very poorly and needs timely pinching to get compact bushes with a lush crown. Every time a shoot that is too tall is formed, its top is cut off, forcing the plants to form side branches. nine0003

To maintain visual appeal and prolong the flowering time, fading buds should be removed as soon as they appear. In this case, the bushes will not spend their energy on the formation of seeds and will not be able to spread around the site on their own.

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Flowers can be used for cutting - for this, at the moment when the first buds have opened on the twig, it is cut off with a sharply sharpened sterile garden knife or secateurs. Cutting is carried out in the morning or in the evening. If the time is right, then such shoots will retain their attractiveness in a vase of water for a week, gradually opening the buds. nine0003

If, after mass flowering, all shoots are cut to a third of their height, then a second wave of flowering may occur.

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Perennial species are cut in mid-autumn, leaving only 15 cm of shoot height and sprinkled with sawdust, peat or straw mulch on top, and then covered with fallen leaves or pine and spruce spruce branches. As soon as the first snow falls, they additionally arrange a snow shelter.

When grown in the Middle lane, even with shelter, the bushes may die in the winter months. They take cover as soon as the snow melts. nine0003

In areas where winters are harsh and snow is scarce, perennial cosmea is simply cut, dug up, placed in flower pots and sent to cellars.

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3.5. Transplantation

Transplantation is most often carried out for young plants - for example, if the seedlings sprouted very amicably and it is required to plant sprouts. The bushes are moved to a new place by transshipment, keeping the root ball intact.

During transshipment, plants may not even notice changes, they will easily take root in a new place and start growing. nine0003

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4. Propagation - growing from seeds

Seed propagation in Cosmos is very easy and often self-sowing can be found under adult plants in the garden. Such bushes may appear in the place where the parent plants grew next year - in the spring.

Perennials can be propagated by stem cuttings or tubers.

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4.1 Seed collection

You can successfully use seeds from your own collection to propagate species plants. Varietal cosmos with this method of reproduction may not inherit all the attractiveness of the parent plants.

In summer, the largest and most brightly colored buds are marked with a colored thread, the seeds are waiting for the formation and maturation. Fully ripened seeds acquire a dark, almost black hue.

Collection is carried out in August - September, choosing a fine, warm and dry day. Seeds after collection are laid out on a flat surface in a warm place without access to sunlight and with excellent ventilation. nine0003

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For 2-3 days, the planting material is dried in this way, and then collected in paper bags and sent for storage in a cool and dry place.

Planting material can be used for 2 - 3 years, then the germination of seeds decreases.

You can grow seedlings and move them to the garden in May - in this case, flowering will come earlier than plants grown directly from seeds in the open field. Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out in late March - early April. nine0003

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4.2. Sowing

Cosmoea seeds can be sown in the garden immediately after the last night frosts have passed - in the first half of May. For a flower, you can immediately choose a suitable place - sunny, protected from strong gusts of wind. When grown in partial shade, the plants will become small and weak, and flowering will not occur.

For sowing, a plot of soil is loosened, weeds are removed along with the roots and the surface of the soil is leveled. In nutrient-poor soils, you can mix in a little superphosphate or other fertilizer for flowering plants. For a better outflow of moisture and to prevent caking, a sufficient amount of coarse-grained sand is added to clay soils. nine0003

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Planting grooves are prepared, into which seeds are sown 3-4 pieces in one place, covering with a small layer of soil 5-7 mm thick or simply slightly pressing into the surface of the earth. Between plants leave a distance approximately equal to 2/3 of the height of the bush. For miniature border species, it can be 25 - 30 cm, and for tall bushes - up to 50 - 60 cm.

When sowing seeds in open ground, plants bloom only in the second half of summer; home conditions for seedlings - in late March - early April. nine0003

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Peat pots or ordinary flower pots with drainage holes are prepared for sowing, a drainage layer of expanded clay, pieces of foam plastic or river pebbles is placed on the bottom.

Fill containers with flower soil, which can be mixed with up to 30% of the volume of coarse-grained river sand.

The surface of the substrate is moistened with a sprayer with water at room temperature and seeds are sown - 1 - 2 pcs. for every pot. From above, the planting material is lightly pressed into the soil with your fingertips and moistened again. nine0003

Pots with seedlings are covered with transparent film or covered with glass to maintain high humidity.

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Leave the containers at room temperature in a well lit area out of direct sunlight. Every day, the shelter is removed, airing is carried out and the water condensate that has come out during the day is wiped off the cover. The ventilation time is increased daily by several minutes.

The first shoots may appear within 1 - 2 weeks - with the appearance of the first shoots, the shelter is removed and the seedlings are hardened, lowering the temperature of the content to 16 - 18 degrees Celsius. If both seeds came out in a glass, then a weaker sprout can simply be pulled out with tweezers. nine0003

With the appearance of 2 - 3 true leaves, the plants can be fed with nitrogen fertilizer diluted with plenty of water. As they grow, if necessary in a larger pot, the bushes dive into larger pots, increasing the diameter by 2 - 3 cm.

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It is possible to sow seeds in seedling boxes, however, as such plants grow, they will definitely need to dive - the bushes should be planted in separate small pots. nine0003

Very seldom in the Middle belt is used winter sowing of seeds. This is due to the fact that it is quite difficult to choose the right time for sowing. Most often, sowing is carried out after the temperature drops below zero degrees for several nights. Only in this case, the first sprouts will not have time to appear before the onset of winter.

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5. Diseases and pests

If the weather is cool with rain for a long time, then the kosmeya can suffer from powdery mildew. Too dense planting and high humidity lead to the appearance of gray rot. nine0003

Among harmful insects, aphids can encroach on the flower, and sometimes slugs and snails also appear.

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6. Types of cosmea:

6.1. Blood-red or chocolate cosmea - Cosmos atrosanguineus

Plants of this species, unfortunately, are quite rare in Russian gardens. Perennial bushes reach a height of 40 - 60 cm, have light green, pinnate leaves. During the flowering period, attractive burgundy inflorescences up to 5 cm in diameter are formed on high peduncles. The buds adorn these plants in July - August. Abundant and long flowering attracts bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects to the garden. nine0003

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Perhaps the most common species in floriculture - these flowering perennials reach a height of 60 - 90 cm. Flowering occurs quite early - already in June, flower baskets are painted in white, pink or raspberry shades and have a yellow core.

The plants spread easily through the garden by self-seeding and are often used as cut flowers. nine0003

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Inflorescences are yellow or orange, reach a diameter of 5 - 7 cm and are formed throughout the summer.

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7. Varieties:

7.1. at the top of the shoots. Inflorescences can be painted in white, pink, lilac or red, reach a diameter of 7 cm. The flowering period begins in July and lasts until frost. nine0003

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7.2. Picotee

A distinctive feature of this variety are brightly colored inflorescences with pink-white petals. The bushes are tall - under optimal conditions, they easily reach 1 m or more. Flowering occurs in the second half of summer, flower baskets are formed profusely and reach a diameter of 6-8 cm. The stems are profusely branched, thin, bearing pinnate, deeply cut leaves resembling dill. Monochromatic inflorescences - pink or crimson, with a yellow center, reach a diameter of 5 - 7 cm.

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8. Meaning of the flower

The name of the plant comes from the Greek language - in it the word "kosmeo" means "decoration". In the language of flowers, cosmea is considered a symbol of modesty and purity, it also means peace and tranquility. It is believed that plants bring happiness to their owners in love and life.

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9. Care at home

Miniature varieties and types of cosmea are grown at home. Plants are planted in cramped pots with drainage holes. nine0003

For abundant and long flowering, a well-lit window is selected - for example, southwest or southeast orientation. Bushes should take sun baths for 3-4 hours daily - in the morning and in the evening. Midday sun rays can burn the foliage.

Space needs a long day of light - its duration should be at least 12 - 14 hours. If there is not enough natural light, LED or fluorescent lamps are used when growing a flower. nine0003

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Water the flower with water at room temperature, previously settled for a day. During the summer months, plants can take warm showers. Excess moisture that has come out after watering in the pan is drained after a few minutes. Between waterings, the substrate is dried 3-4 cm deep.

Contains cosmea bushes at normal room temperature, this flower tolerates the strongest heat very easily.

Since plants lack nutrients in cramped conditions, every 10-14 days they are fed with mineral fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus. Fertilize immediately after watering. nine0003

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In the warm season, loggias and balconies are decorated with pots with blooming cosmos.

After flowering, annual plants lose their attractiveness and are discarded. Perennials are cut off after flowering, leaving only a few centimeters of growth at the base and sent for a dormant period to a cool room with a temperature of 5-7 degrees.

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