Home » Misc » What are fruit trees

What are fruit trees


Fruit Trees - KidsGardening

While it takes several years from planting time for most fruit trees to begin bearing a substantial harvest, they will produce fruit for many years, even decades, if given proper care.

Fun Facts

Fruit Trees - Growing Guide

Adding fruit trees to your school or home garden can be a rewarding, educational, and delicious experience. Besides a sweet and nutritious harvest, fruit tree growing adds beauty to your landscape and provides a host of opportunities for learning about pollination and the importance of pollinators, tree growth and care, and healthful eating.

However, fruit trees are a long-term investment in time, garden space, and resources. While it takes several years from planting time for most fruit trees to begin bearing a substantial harvest, they will produce fruit for many years, even decades, if given proper care. To continue to thrive, fruit trees need regular pruning and pest and disease monitoring and control. So it’s important to consider both the needs of the trees and the on-going capabilities for care of your school garden program (or your home gardening enthusiasm) before you set your trees in the ground.

One of the delights of fruit tree gardening is the range of plants to choose from. Depending on your available space and climate you can choose among many different varieties of apples, pears, plums, cherries, apricots, peaches, and nectarines.  In warmer parts of the country citrus, figs, pomegranates, and guavas are possibilities.

Within the scope of this article, we can’t give you all the information you’ll need to choose and grow the fruit trees that will meet your specific needs. What we can do is provide you with an overview of the kinds of things that are important to consider if you’re thinking about planting fruit trees at your school or home — a road map to help you navigate your way to the best selections for your site.

Create a Fruit Tree Scrapbook

Because fruit trees are long-lived plants, it’s a good idea to start a fruit tree “scrapbook” at planting time that can be passed along and referred to from year to year.   This is especially helpful for school and community garden plantings, where tree caretakers may change with time. Scrapbooks may be on paper or digital and can include text, photos, and diagrams.  Start by listing the specific fruit tree varieties planted, as well as the date of planting, the trees’ location, and planting methods used. In the following seasons include notes on when and how the trees are pruned; the kinds and timing of pest and disease problems encountered, how they are treated, and what worked and what didn’t; the weather conditions, both during the growing season and over the winter; if and when trees are fertilized; how much fruit is produced and when it is ready for harvest. You will be creating an invaluable resource that can help you and future gardeners refine tree care practices and ensure a bountiful harvest for years to come.

Excited to garden with kids?

Explore more resources, discover funding opportunities, ask questions, and learn with other gardeners in the Kids Garden Community. Join FREE today to start connecting, sharing, and growing with educators and parents just like you!

Fruit Trees | Eartheasy Guides & Articles

Fruit trees may offer a better return on effort than anything in the garden. A single semi-dwarf apple tree can produce up to 500 apples in a season, with a productive life of 15 to 20 years. Several trees, with different harvest times, can bring fruit to your table eight months of the year.

Consider the benefits of planting your own fruit trees:

Your own supply of organic fruit
With your own fruit trees you know exactly what you’re getting: no sprays, no wax, no chemicals. And you can enjoy a steady supply of fruit for much of the year. Besides fresh fruit in the fall, you can store apples through winter, and can preserve fruit for year-round use in cooking and baking. It’s also fun to share your harvest with friends.

Savings
The cost of organic fruit is high. Averaged over a ten year period, organic apples from your own tree will cost only a few cents apiece. Compare this with the supermarket price for organic apples.

Good for the environment
A fruit tree filters the air, conditions the soil, provides shade, shelters wildlife, and attracts pollinators to your garden. And there are no transportation impacts when growing fruit in your own yard.

You can have all of the above for very low cost and a relatively small amount of annual maintenance!

Choosing a fruit tree

Size: Common available sizes of fruit trees are dwarf, semi-dwarf and standard.

Dwarf

Small trees for small spaces, dwarf fruit trees can do well in an 8′ diameter plot. They are easy to prune and harvest because they don’t grow tall. The fruit is normal size, but the yield is less because of the smaller tree size. Dwarf trees are not as long-lived as the larger trees. Most dwarf trees begin bearing fruit in three to five years.

Semi-dwarf

Medium-sized trees which require a growing area of about 15′ diameter, semi-dwarfs can range in height from 10 to 16′ and need annual pruning to keep the height down and the shape balanced. Very productive, this size tree will produce hundreds of fruit per season. Occasionally, trees will take a year off and produce little or no fruit, especially after a season of heavy production. Most fruit trees planted today are semi-dwarf, because they produce a large crop from a tree with manageable size for pruning and harvesting.

Standard

That huge old apple tree in Grandpa’s back yard is a standard, the only choice of size before the smaller hybrids were developed. Standards require more space and are a bigger job to prune and harvest. They can grow to 25 – 30′, or taller if left unpruned. If you want a “landmark” tree that the kids can climb in and swing from, get a standard. They take many years to reach full size, so it may be the grandkids who do the swinging. Most standard trees begin bearing in three to five years.

Maintenance tasks, such as pruning and yard work beneath the tree, should also be considered when choosing tree size. Smaller trees yield crops of manageable size and are much easier to spray, thin, prune, net and harvest than large trees. And, if trees are kept small, it’s possible to plant a greater number of trees, which can offer more kinds of fruit and a longer fruit season.

Fruit

What varieties to choose? Here are a few tips:

Choose local varieties

Ask at your local nursery for the varieties which do best in your area. Many exotic varieties are inviting, but the local varieties will produce best with the least effort.

Match the tree to your soil

Plums, for example, do well in damp soil conditions which might not be good for apples. Pears and apples can handle drier soil, but need good drainage. Peaches can get blight from too much rain, so they will do better in semi-protected areas, like alongside buildings under eaves which offer some protection. If you have a planting location in mind, consult with your local nursery or garden center.

Provide pollinators

Not all fruit tree varieties are self-pollinating. Often, the right combination of varieties are necessary for fruit trees to produce fruit. Most apples are partially self-pollinating and will set some fruit off their own pollen, however these varieties will set more fruit if cross-pollinated with another variety. Ask at your local nursery about the pollinating requirements for trees you are considering.

Extend the harvest

If planting a few trees, choose varieties which will give you fruit for a longer time. With apples, for example, you can plant one early variety like Gravenstein for summer eating, a late summer variety like King for fall eating, and a winter keeper which can be stored all winter. Stored properly, the fruit from winter keepers will last to the following March or April. With three trees of different harvest times, you’ll enjoy your own organic fruit for 8 months of the year.

Conformation

When choosing a tree from your local nursery, it’s most important to look carefully at its features. Trees are commonly sold as ‘bare root’, meaning the roots are exposed, and the young tree is 3′ to 6′ tall. Here’s what to look for:

Strong, straight stem

Fruit trees do best when they grow straight. A slight lean in a young tree, if left unstaked, will develop into a large lean when mature and laden with fruit. A fruit tree which leans in one direction, out of balance, is more prone to blowdown from wind, or can fall under its own unbalanced weight.

Defined leader

One central branch should be the obvious ‘leader’, which leads the growth straight up. A tree with no clear leader will require more frequent pruning to keep the shape in balance.

Well balanced branches

Look for the ‘candelabra’ shape with branches extending evenly in all directions. This even growth will keep the tree balanced and growing straight, as well as maximizing fruit yield. Even fruit distribution also helps keep branches from breaking due to fruit overload.

No low branches

Branches should be starting from the same general area along the tree stem. Avoid trees with one lone branch, low down. This is out of balance, and low-lying fruit encourages pests like raccoons. Low branches also get in the way of lawn care beneath the tree.

Several feet of clear stem

You don’t want your tree to start branching too low; it will be hard to walk under when harvesting. A few feet of clear stem also enables you to wrap metal sheeting, if necessary, to prevent raccoons from climbing the tree.

Plentiful, undamaged roots

Roots on bare root starters should be well protected and kept damp before planting. When selecting a bare root tree to buy, avoid nursery stock with roots exposed too long in the sun or damaged in any way.

Planting your fruit tree

An important consideration when choosing where to plant a fruit tree is soil drainage. Fruit trees will not thrive in soil that drains too slowly. You can test for drainage by digging a hole about one foot (30cm) deep and filling it with water. The hole should drain within three hours.

  • Dig the hole: Dig down about 18″ and, with a pitchfork, fork the bottom and sides of the hole to loosen the soil. Water the hole deeply and wait until the water fully soaks into the ground at the bottom of the hole.
  • Sprinkle compost on the bottom of the hole.
  • Put some dirt back in the hole, leaving a mound in the center.
  • Set tree in hole with the root ball on top of the mound. The graft line of the tree should be about 3″ above the ground. Adjust the height of the mound if necessary.
  • Spread roots evenly in all directions. Handle the roots very gently during this procedure.
  • Fill hole with soil and firm gently with your foot. Check that the tree is vertical. Be sure to ‘overfill’ the hole so the soil is an inch or two above ground level. The soil will compress when watered, and settle to ground level.
  • Stake if necessary, especially if the ground is sloping. Tie the tree to the stake with a rubber tie or piece of cloth. The tie should be loose so as not to girdle the tree. Allow plenty of room for the trunk to thicken.
  • Mulch around the base of the tree with grass clippings. Be sure to keep graft line clear of mulch so it remains above ground.
  • Fence if necessary. Deer will eat the bark of young trees, given the opportunity.

Fruit tree pollination: the key to successful fruit production

A healthy fruit tree with a large spring bloom does not guarantee the tree will produce fruit in the fall. Successful pollination must occur to produce viable seed, which leads to the development of mature fruit. Pollination can occur in several ways: some fruit tree varieties are self-pollinating, others are partially self-fertile, and others must be pollinated from another tree, usually the same type of tree but a different variety.

When buying fruit tree stock, ask about the pollination characteristics and requirements of the tree. Local advice is usually the best since pollination can vary within species in different climate zones. If you’re buying trees which need a separate pollinator, be sure the bloom time is the same. For example, early season plum varieties shed their blossoms before midseason plums come into flower, so there’s little cross-pollination.

To help improve the chances of successful pollination:

Plant two or more varieties of the same tree

This is the most reliable way of ensuring successful crops. Even self-pollinating fruit trees will set more fruit when cross-pollinated.

Attract bees to your orchard

Bees are active pollinators and a valuable asset in any garden. Plant flowers of both early and late blooming varieties to ensure a good display of flowers throughout the season. Mason bees can also be attracted and kept as permanent residents by providing small mason bee ‘houses’ near your fruit trees.

Avoid using insecticides

Toxic sprays kill beneficial insects as well as pests, and should be avoided especially during the pollinating season.

Consider 'multi-graft' trees for small yards

Fruit trees are available with three of four compatible cross-pollinating varieties grafted to a single tree. This effectively converts a cross-pollinator to a self-pollinator.

Consider manually pollinating your trees

When poor weather results in low bee activity during the peak flowering time, you can take a branch from one tree and dust it in among the branches of another tree, effectively doing the job of a bee. This is more difficult with larger trees or if you have more than a few trees to pollinate.

Tips for growing productive fruit trees

Be careful taking your new tree home

Bare root fruit trees require careful handling since they can die of shock. When transporting a young fruit tree, be sure to keep the root ball damp and shaded from sun.

Always keep graft line clear of debris and above ground

Bare root fruit trees usually have had the particular variety grafted onto a hardier rootstock. When planting the tree, if the graft line is set below ground level the tree may revert to its root stock and give the wrong fruit – like crab apples! When adding mulch, be sure to pull the mulch a few inches away from the tree stem. This will help ensure the soil level does not rise above the graft.

Thin the fruit soon after the young fruit appears

If the size of the fruit produced from your tree is below expectations, it may be due to an over-abundance of fruit on the tree. The tree has only so much energy to use to produce fruit, so thinning (removing some of the fruit) is essential to produce large fruit in some species, such as peach and apple. For best results, thin fruit trees early in the season, when the fruit is still quite small.

Does your tree fail to produce fruit some years?

Healthy, productive trees sometimes take a year off. However, if a fruit tree produces an overabundance of fruit which is not thinned, the tree may become a biennial producer. Therefore, it is prudent to thin the fruit when trees produce a large amount of fruit.

Defend against apple maggots

The apple maggot is the most destructive pest of apples grown in home orchards. This insect is a type of fly which pierces the skin of ripening fruit and lays eggs. In 5 – 10 days, the eggs hatch a maggot which burrows through the fruit. These pests can be managed by using sticky red sphere traps. Hang one trap for every 100 apples in a tree.

For more information, see our product page for Apple Maggot Traps.

Other pests?

There are numerous insect pests which can affect the production of your fruit trees. Insect pest invasions are often cyclical, and may persist through one season but not appear the following year. It helps to keep an annual record of fruit tree performance so you can identify problems which persist longer than one season, as well as which trees are most susceptible to pest problems.

To learn more about natural methods of controlling insect pests, see our page Natural Pest Control.

Rake the leaves

Fruit tree leaves should not be used as mulch around the garden. If the leaves are still on the ground, cover the area with ground limestone. This will prevent spores on the leaves on the ground from developing.

Prune during the dormant season

All major pruning should be done in late winter or spring. Ask your nursery for a leaflet on pruning. Some pruning is usually required each year to keep the tree growing in a balanced shape.

Water during dry seasons

Water once every two weeks during dry spells; put a pan under tree and water until it fills 5 – 8cm (2 – 3″) to ensure water reaches the root zone.

Make a field plan

Record on paper when you planted and what varieties you planted so when you harvest you’ll know what variety you are enjoying. Do not depend on memory or the plant identification tags to know what you planted – both will fade with time.

Beware the weedeater!

A weedeater can quickly damage a fruit tree by cutting the bark at ground level. This can stress the tree to cause reduced blooming and fruiting, and repeated injuries can even kill the tree.

Prepare your trees for winter

A few simple steps taken after the trees have been harvested in the fall will give your fruit trees a head start for spring. Read our article Fall Care of Fruit Trees.

Fruit tree feed/mulch: spring treatment

You can use the following mix to promote root and vegetative growth for fruit trees in the spring:

Top-dress with 2″ of the above mix in early March and again in mid-June.

Buy fruit trees online

Nature hills online nursery
You can have live ‘ready to plant’ trees delivered to your door. Choose from over 200 species.

Fruit tree supplies

Fruit Trees Alive!™ Build-Up Formula

Helps fruit trees grow faster and bear big, delicious harvest. Eleven macro- and micronutrients are in the mix, including copper and sulfur, which produce the sweetness so characteristic of well-grown tree-ripened fruit.

Buy Fruit Trees Alive! Build-Up Formula.

Water wise soaker hose

Maintaining moisture for new transplants and young trees is easy to manage with soaker hoses. Soaker hoses deliver water where needed, unlike sprinklers which lose water to wind and misdirected spray. These hoses can be set around the perimeter of fruit trees and easily moved to other locations as needed. Soaker hoses are available in different lengths and thicknesses.

For more information or to buy a soaker hose

Natural Deer Repellent

Actively repel deer and small animals for up to 60 days. The combination of garlic and egg putrescence deters deer through two modes of action; scent and taste. However, the scent is not strong enough to bother human noses!

For more information or to buy Natural Deer Repellent

Apple maggot trap

Apple maggot is a type of fruit fly that attacks apples, blueberries, hawthorn, plums, pears and cherries. They cause extensive fruit damage that renders fruit useless. The SpringStar Apple Maggot trap and lure set have proven effective at reducing apple maggot damage. Flies are attracted by the lures and come to a sticky demise on the goo-covered apple sphere.

For more information or to buy Apple Maggot Trap.

Compost tumblers

Every orchard needs a good composter convert all the spoiled and damaged fruit into rich compost, the ideal fertilizer and soil conditioner. Fully sealed compost ‘tumblers’ are self-contained units which make compost faster than compost bins, and keep pests like raccoons and mice out of your compost.

See our line of fully sealed composters.

Related articles:

For practical sustainable living products, visit Eartheasy’s online store.

Fruit trees and shrubs

Fruit trees and shrubs are now not only planted for the sake of a tasty harvest, but are also actively used in modern landscape design. Remember the spring orchard, completely covered with pale pink and milky, unusually fragrant flowers. And how graceful trees are when they grow up and create comfort and beauty in your garden. Fruit trees can hide you from the scorching sun on a bright sunny day, creating a soft shadow. There are rarely areas where at least a few fruit trees and shrubs do not grow. Even if the garden is planted in an exquisite English or Japanese style, there is sure to be room for several fruit trees. How wonderful it is to enjoy juicy and tasty fruits and berries from your own garden. How wonderful is the taste of juicy pears, cherries, cherries, grapes, plucked in a whole bunch right from the branch, and all this is grown on our own tree planted with kindness and great love. It is they who supply us with the necessary vitamins all year round. No less popular are berry bushes, such as raspberries, honeysuckle, gooseberries, and currants. Strawberries and strawberries, along with raspberries, are some of the tastiest, most popular and favorite berries grown in our gardens. nine0003

According to their biological characteristics, berry and fruit species are divided into groups:

Of the listed groups of berry-fruit plants, it is recommended to grow only zoned varieties that have been cultivated in our area for many years. Give preference to unpretentious types of crops that grow well and thrive in almost any area. nine0003

The most promising fruit and berry crops for our climatic zone are:

In our online store only zoned fruit plants for our climatic zone are presented.

Experienced gardeners know how much effort and work it takes to care for trees. Every gardener should know all the rules of garden care: proper planting of seedlings, timely care, pruning and rejuvenation of trees. Planting a tree is a responsible job, because further development and harvest depend on proper planting. The soil in the garden also plays an important role, as it is a supplier of minerals that are necessary for the rooting and development of the planted plant. Some species feel great on almost any type of soil, while other species, on the contrary, are very demanding and capricious. When planting, certain agrotechnical measures are required; seedlings must be placed in accordance with their physiological characteristics. The light regime is of great importance for growing. In poor lighting, the trees stretch upwards, and the branches partially die off. In garden plots, tall trees such as apricot, cherry, apple, pear should be placed from the northern part of your plot, keeping a distance of 4 meters between trees. Trees on a semi-dwarf rootstock, apple trees, cherries, plums, are placed at a distance of 3 meters. For dwarf trees, such as felt cherry and apple, 2 meters is enough. The distance between berry bushes is about 1-2m. On the south side of the plot you can grow strawberries. nine0003

Berry plants should preferably be placed in a separate area and not planted too closely, as over the years they will shade each other. When planting berry bushes, you need to keep a distance of about 0.5 - 0.7 cm between the bushes. After planting, regular watering and post-plant care are carried out. Plants are planted in spring, before bud break, and in autumn, after leaf fall.

The growth of fruit trees and berry bushes largely depends on the depth of the pit and its filling with nutrients. During spring planting, pits are dug in the fall, and during autumn planting, they are dug in 2-3 weeks. The size of the planting hole depends on the level of groundwater, the composition of the soil and the crop being planted. Planting pits vary in size but are usually round and sheer-sided. nine0003

The top layer of earth removed from the pit is mixed with mineral and organic fertilizers and placed back. The amount of fertilizer applied depends on the size of the hole and the plant being planted. A stake is driven into the hole, to which the planted seedling is tied. Before planting, seedlings are placed for 1-2 days in a bucket of water. Then their roots are dipped in a clay or earthen mash, then they are placed in a hole and covered with soil, compacting strongly but carefully. The grafting site should be a few centimeters above the soil level. The soil is watered and mulched with peat or humus. It is also recommended to carry out post-planting pruning - it favorably affects the laying of the correct crown of the tree. Fruit trees and shrubs need nutrition, which they receive in the form of water solutions from the soil. The lack or excess of mineral elements in the soil will adversely affect growth and fruiting. Mineral and organic fertilizers are used to nourish fruit trees and berry bushes. nine0003

Pruning is done to maintain a physical correspondence between fruit bearing and tree growth. With the help of pruning, a crown is formed, lighting conditions in the crown are improved, which affects the strength of plant growth, the timing of entry into the fruit-bearing period, the size of the crop and the quality of the fruit depend on this. There are two main cropping methods: thinning and shortening. In the first years of the life of fruit trees, pruning is the most important task in order to form a strong crown. Crown development continues at a young age until the tree enters fruiting. In the fruit-bearing garden, control pruning is carried out, aimed at achieving the optimal ratio between fruiting and growth. Rejuvenating pruning is performed once every 3-4 years, it is aimed at enhancing growth processes and resuming the regeneration of young wood. Along with anti-aging pruning, sanitary pruning is also performed. It is produced in February-April before flowering. All berry bushes need pruning, so black currants are pruned in July, white and red, and gooseberries - in July and October, after the foliage has fallen. Blackberries and raspberries are cut in October, honeysuckle in March and November. The cut points are smeared with garden pitch. Gardening needs to be done regularly and regularly. Another important factor in the care is autumn and spring painting. The last step in preparing the garden for wintering is the collection of all garbage, fallen leaves and burning. And you can safely wait for spring. nine0003

The apple tree is the most frequent inhabitant of our gardens. An unpretentious plant that can adapt to different soil and climatic conditions, winter-hardy, with a long life and productivity.

Pear is more capricious and heat-loving, prefers fertile soil and regular watering. Cherry is not so whimsical to the soil and is quite frost-resistant.

Red, black and white currant tolerates drought and frost quite easily, grows in open spaces without drafts, is not capricious to the soil, needs regular watering. Gooseberries are quite sensitive to cold and high humidity, so for the winter it is necessary to wrap and sprinkle with snow, and in summer try not to fill it with water. Fruiting bush can last up to 25 years. nine0003

Raspberries are frost-resistant, grown in sunny and calm areas, demanding on the soil. Requires constant and abundant watering, especially during the formation of fruits.

Blackberry, according to the conditions of vital activity, is similar to raspberries, but less frost-resistant, able to freeze slightly, but also recover quickly.

Blueberry with a fastidious temperament, prefers soil of a certain acidity, which must be constantly maintained, sunny and sheltered from the wind. On waterlogged soils, it is good to plant blackcurrant, shadberry, viburnum, cranberries. nine0003

Apricot is planted in well-lit and wind-protected places, it does not take well to excess moisture. It grows and bears fruit on soils sufficiently provided with nutrients.

Buying seedlings of fruit trees and shrubs in our online store is very simple. Choose the varieties you like in the catalog section, and we will deliver your order using mail services throughout Belarus. Our assortment includes popular and common berry seedlings that have been grown in our gardens for a long time, as well as the latest innovations. Saplings, with a high degree of survival, are purchased only from trusted suppliers, zoned for our climatic conditions. Fruit trees and fruit bushes are a must for every garden. How wonderful it is to enjoy juicy and tasty fruits and berries from your own garden! nine0003

Fruit tree - frwiki.wiki

Fruit tree is a tree grown specifically for its edible fruit. For botanists, a fruit is a structure formed by the ripened ovary of a flower containing one or more seeds, but only fruits that are of nutritional and economic interest to humans are taken into account here. Fruit is understood in a broad sense, as in some cases only the seeds are harvested, such as in the case of coffee or chestnut. nine0003

However, not all fruits consumed by humans are produced by trees: some are produced by herbaceous plants, vegetable or vegetable plants such as melon, watermelon and strawberries or pineapple, bushes and shrubs such as raspberries, currants or currants. blueberries, also grown in gardens, kiwi or vine, or stems such as banana and coconut.

In addition, fruit trees can be interesting not only from the point of view of fruits, but also from the point of view of their wood (we sometimes talk about forest fruit trees for their medicinal properties or, for example, as ornamental plants. nine0003

Fruit production on these trees often fluctuates throughout the year (multi-annual cycles) to reduce the burden on herbivores who specialize in this type of food.

Intensive apple orchard

Peach orchard in bloom in La Rinconada, in the province of Seville, Spain.

Summary

Cultivation of fruit trees

Cultivation of fruit trees is practiced in different ways: nine0003

Diseases and pests of fruit trees

Many pathogenic microorganisms (viruses, bacteria, fungi) and parasites attack all parts of the tree, in the wood of trunks and roots (bark beetles), branches and branches and leaves (aphids), buds and leaves, flowers , fruits (carpocapses, budworms...). Some birds are considered pests of fruit (thrushes, starlings) or buds (chickadees), but by consuming large numbers of parasitic insects, birds such as the chickadee greatly increase garden productivity, so they are sometimes offered nesting boxes. (organic farming, integrated pest management). Often, industrial gardens are attacked by opportunistic pathogens that are not normally a problem in nature (e.g. Pseudomonas syringae or even beneficial as they contribute to soil fertility or organic matter recycling). their genetic homogeneity. Bee regression, probably in part due to pesticides, is responsible for yield loss, especially of tall trees in areas of intensive farming, for species that can be pollinated only by bees or mostly by bees.

Arachnids

bacteria

Mushrooms

Insects

higher plants

Some fruit trees

Cut

Different shapes of fruit trees:

Pruning has the advantage of promoting fruit set by limiting over-emergence and allowing the plant to adapt to the size of the garden by making it take on a reduced mass. nine0003

Notes and links

  1. ↑ (in) Raul Ortiz-Pulido and Victor Rico-Grey, " The influence of spatiotemporal variation on the understanding of the fruit crop size hypothesis ", Oikos , Vol. 91, p o 3, , p 523-527
  2. ↑ Gauthier A. [2009]; Use and markets of forest fruit trees. Forêt Wallonne 101: 42-48 (7 pp., 1 fig., 1 pl., 2 ref.). nine0008
  3. ↑ Gautier A. (2009). Use and markets of forest fruit trees . ; Forêt - entreprise n° 184, pp. 50-53.
  4. ↑ Girard S. (2009). Forest fruit trees: what can be found in the nursery? ; Forêt - Enterprise #184 - January 2009; pp.40-44

Bibliography

See Also

Related Articles

External links