Tips for growing okra
Growing Okra Plants | How to Plant Okra and General Growing Tips – Bonnie Plants
Okra, especially popular in the South, grows best in hot weather. Get expert tips for growing the unique okra vegetable in your home garden.
As more gardeners discover that they really like okra, the range of this warm-natured hibiscus cousin is steadily edging northward. Growing okra requires warm weather, but by using seedlings, you can shave 3 weeks or more from its usual long season. As long as okra seedlings are handled gently, as if they were breakable eggs, they can be slipped into the garden – or into large containers – just as the hot season begins. For the best results, begin with vigorous okra starter plants from Bonnie Plants®, the company that has been helping home gardeners succeed for over a century.
Quick Guide to Growing Okra
- Plant okra in hot weather when evening temperatures are in the 60s or warmer.
- Space okra plants 10 inches apart in a very sunny area that has fertile, well-drained soil with a neutral pH of 6.
5 to 7.0.
- Improve native soil by mixing in several inches of aged compost or other rich organic matter.
- Okra loves the heat and can withstand a dry spell, but do your best to give plants 1 inch of water every week.
- Promote a more abundant harvest by regularly feeding with a continuous-release plant food
- Harvest okra pods when they are 2 to 4 inches long.
Soil, Planting, and Care
Choose your sunniest spot for growing okra, and wait until the weather is warm to set out your plants. Plants like it when nights are at least in the 60s and days 85 or warmer. In the North, gardeners might wait until late June to plant, since pods appear within 2 months.
Okra grows best in soil with a near-neutral pH between 6.5 and 7.0, although it will do fine in a pH as high as 7.6. Plants benefit from a generous amount of compost or other rich organic matter, which should be thoroughly mixed into the soil before planting. Or, you can improve the nutrition and texture of your native soil by mixing in aged compost-enriched Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics®All Purpose In-Ground Soil with the top few inches.
For an even better chance at a big harvest, you'll also want to make sure your okra plants get all the nutrients they need throughout the season by feeding them with a continuous-release fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics® Edibles Plant Nutrition Granules, following label directions.
Okra seedlings have fragile taproots that you need to be careful not to damage. Thoroughly water your seedlings an hour before you plant them. Gently remove them from the pot, separate the seedlings, and set them about 10 inches apart. Plant slightly deeper (about ½ inch) than they grew in their pots. Water the little plants if rain is not expected, but wait a few days before mulching to give the soil a chance to absorb the sun's warmth. Okra is appreciated for its ability to withstand drought compared to other vegetables, but for good growth and production, you'll need to water at least an inch a week, just as with other vegetables. Just know that if you run into an extended dry period and can't seem to water enough, okra will be the last to suffer.
The early growth of okra is often slow, but the plants grow much faster once summer starts sizzling. In addition to gaining height, okra's leaves get bigger as the plants grow and begin producing yellow blossoms followed by tender pods. Plants are erect with a main trunk, making them look a little tree-like in the garden
Troubleshooting
Cool weather is okra's number-one enemy, and stressed plants may fall victim to verticillium and fusarium wilts, which are soil-borne diseases that cause them to wilt and die. Another serious pest is root knot nematode. Ants often climb up plants to steal sips of nectar but seldom cause serious damage. Fire ants are the exception, as they can cause damage to developing flowers that forces them to abort. Other pests that you may run into include Japanese beetles, stink bugs, aphids, corn earworms, and flea beetles. Contact your regional Extension agency for details on how to control these diseases and pests.
Harvest and Storage
Warm weather helps pods grow quickly, so check plants every day once they start producing.
A pod can grow from nothing to full size in 2 or 3 days. Pods first appear at the base of the plant up so that by the end of the season you could be on your tiptoes to harvest.
Pods are ideal when 2 to 4 inches long; they get very tough and stringy if allowed to stay on the plant. Always remove any that are too big to eat because they keep the plant from producing.
Use pruning shears to cut the pods with a short stub of stem attached. Some people suffer uncomfortable itching from contact with okra's stiff leaf hairs, so you may want to wear gloves and a long-sleeved shirt when gathering your okra. If a few pods slip by you and grow into giants, cut them off to keep them from exhausting the plant.
In warm climates where summer lasts a long time, standard-sized plants can get 6 to 8 feet tall. In this case, many people prune in late summer by cutting back about one-third of the plants' tops. Buds along the main stem then grow and produce a late crop.
Okra is a "cut-and-come-again" vegetable.
Keep cutting the pods every day or two, and they will keep on coming.
FAQs
Do all okra varieties have spines?
Some varieties are listed as "spineless." However, the term is a description of the okra pod itself, and not the plant. All plants have at least tiny, fuzzy spines that cause burning and itching when you rub against them. Wear long sleeves and gloves to harvest okra if you are bothered by the prickly plant.
What do you do with the extra okra plants in the planting cups when planting?
It has been too cool for okra to grow much.
Okra likes hot weather. Temperatures in the 80s and higher will help.
After blooms appear on the plants, how long does it take okra to grow to harvest size?
Within two or three days after blooming, okra pods are ready for cutting. The tender pods are best for eating. The longer the pod stays on the plant, the more woody it becomes to the point where you can't eat it. However, some gardeners let the pods mature and get woody to use for arrangements.
Growing Okra Growing Techniques Okra Summer Garden Vegetables
How to Grow Okra in Your Home Veggie Patch
Abelmoschus esculentusOkra, referred to by the botanical name Abelmoschus esculentus or sometimes Hibiscus esculentus, is a member of the Malvaceae, or mallow family, that includes cotton, hibiscus, and hollyhocks.
It is thought to have origins in ancient Egypt and Ethiopia, and grows as an annual in all USDA Hardiness Zones.
Also called lady finger or gumbo, the immature edible pods of okra have long been used as a thickener in stews and soups like Creole- and Southern-style gumbo, and Indian dishes.
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Read on for all you need to know to grow and harvest your own crop, plus some info on varieties and useful cooking tips!
How to Grow Okra
- Okra Orientation
- Growing Tips
- Pests and Disease
- Suggested Varieties
- Harvest Time
- Okra Quick Reference Growing Chart
- Edibles Rule
Okra Orientation
Rich in fiber, protein, and vitamins A, C, and K, okra is not only a nutritious addition to veggie gardens, but makes an attractive specimen in beds and borders, with varieties ranging from dwarf to over eight feet tall at maturity.
Plants are typically green, but may also be red-stemmed with red-veined leaves.
Yellow flowers with red centers resemble hibiscus. Pods may be green or red; curved or straight; with or without ridges; and smooth or covered in tiny fuzzy “spines.”
In fact, the leaves, stems, and pods of this plant are often setulose, or covered in tiny hairs or bristles. Though these aren’t technically spines like what you might find on a cactus, they’re commonly referred to as such, and they can be a real pain for whoever is doing the harvest.
Gardeners often prefer “spineless” varieties, because these protrusions commonly cause itching and irritation when okra is harvested and prepared. For some, handling the plant may actually cause an allergic skin reaction.
Much like stinging nettles, washing and cooking, or blanching in boiling water, will remove these irritating hairs. Wearing long sleeves and gloves to protect your skin is always recommended when you’re working in the garden.
Growing Tips
Okra is very easy to grow from seed.
It prefers full sun, average moisture without letting the soil dry out completely if possible, and good soil that drains well. A neutral soil pH between 6.5 and 7.5 is preferred.
It will grow in poor soil and can even withstand some drought conditions, but may not produce optimally under these circumstances.
Prepare seeds for planting by scraping each lightly with a nail file and soaking in tap water overnight.
In warm climates, direct sow in the early spring garden when soil temperatures are at least 60°F, to a depth of about one inch. Around mid-summer, you may prune tall varieties to encourage further growth, and you can also choose to plant a fresh crop at that time for a late harvest.
In cold regions, like mine in the Northeast, you’ll have to wait a little longer for the soil to warm up enough for direct sowing outdoors, at least two weeks after the last frost date, maybe more.
You may also start seeds indoors up to two months before the last average frost date in spring. Since the soil needs to be warm to encourage germination, consider using a heat mat.
Transplant sturdy seedlings to the outdoor garden around the last frost date. I like to use egg cartons or peat pots I can place directly into the ground, because okra has fragile roots. Keep in mind that okra doesn’t take well to transplanting, so you’re likely to lose some seedlings if you go with this planting method.
Be sure to read seed packages for specific instructions, and for details on plant heights and widths. Tall types reach up to four feet in diameter, and this knowledge will aid in spacing your plants in the garden.
Sow more seeds than you need, and when sprouts have their first true leaves, thin them out, keeping only the strongest.
Apply a layer of mulch around your plants to inhibit weed growth and aid in moisture retention. Feed with a balanced vegetable fertilizer throughout the growing season, per package instructions.
Extreme weather fluctuations can affect this plant, causing flowers and buds to drop, or pods to fail to form. Give your plants the best conditions you can in terms of sun exposure, provide adequate watering and sun protection to try to keep your plants cool in a heatwave, and cover seedlings for extra warmth in the case of a late-season coldsnap.
Pests and Disease
Okra is not particularly prone to pests or disease, but both are always a possibility.
Avoid the need for troubleshooting later with crop rotation, high quality seed, ample air circulation, and appropriate moisture. Keep your veggie patch clean, and remove dead leaves and old vegetation.
Did you know okra can be grown as an ornamental too? This beauty would look at home in any annual garden.Walk through your garden each day, and be on the lookout for aphids and stink bugs feeding on the juices of emerging pods. Remember that beneficial insects like ladybugs are your friends in the veggie patch, and they should be allowed to stay!
Look for cabbage worms and flea beetles munching leaves, and check the undersides of leaves for bug eggs and whiteflies.
Hand picking insects or dousing them with a steady stream of hose water is usually all that’s needed to avoid an infestation.
In addition, a fungus called fusarium wilt may occur where there is too much moisture. Its telltale sign is drooping yellow leaves. Plants that succumb to this must be destroyed, to prevent spread to other plants.
Anthracnose fungus is another potential issue, noted by black spots on leaves. Again, you should remove any infected plants to prevent further spread in the garden.
Powdery mildew, noted by white and powdery spots on plants as the name suggests, may also affect okra growing in humid and overly moist conditions. Remove affected portions, prune back plants for good airflow, and always plant in well-draining soil.
Read more about treating powdery mildew disease.
Suggested Varieties
Okra is a cultigen, meaning it has been improved upon via selective breeding and hybridization for many generations, to produce the most delicious harvests and attractive, resilient plants.
You’ll find an array of cultivars available from all over the world that includes heirloom species and hybrid varieties. And while the flavor of the resulting fruits is generally mild, aficionados of old heirlooms often swear their favorites are best.
If you garden in the South, all varieties should serve you well, as okra loves heat, humidity, and a long growing season. For Northerners, cultivars bred for better cold tolerance and a shorter growing season are best.
If you’re looking for something unique, you can find okra in shades of red and burgundy. To save your skin, look for spineless varieties – but keep in mind that no cultivar is truly entirely free of those potentially irritating little hairs that grow on the plant.
Here are a few noteworthy varieties that you might like to choose for this year’s garden:
Cajun Delight
If you’re growing in a cooler climate up north like me, this hybrid is a great pick. Plants mature in 50-55 days, maxing out around 4 feet in height.
Dark green pods grow to about 5 inches long, with a slight curve.
‘Cajun Delight’ Hybrid Seeds
Hybrid ‘Cajun Delight’ seeds are available from Seedsurvivor via Amazon.
Burgundy
For something a little different, add some color to your crops. This red variety matures in 60 days, reaching four feet in height.
Heirloom ‘Burgundy’
Straight pods will grow up to eight inches long, if you want to keep them on your plants for ornamental interest.
Heirloom ‘Burgundy’ seeds are available from Eden Brothers.
Want more options?, check out our Guide to the Best 13 Varieties of Okra.
Harvest Time
You want to harvest your okra when it’s around three inches long which is the optimal size for most cultivars before they start getting woody. If they are too tough and stringy at that length, you can start harvesting them two inches.
If you pick ever other day and keep on top of them, your pods should keep blooming and produce tasty pods all summer long.
And if you have planted open pollination varieties, remember allow a few to grow to maturity to save their seeds for next year’s planting.
Get more details on okra harvesting here.
Okra Quick Reference Growing Chart
| Plant Type: | Annual | Tolerance: | Drought |
| Native to: | Tropical Africa and Asia | Maintenance: | Moderate; keep free from weeds |
| Hardiness (USDA Zone): | 9-12 | Soil Type: | Loamy |
| Season: | Summer | Soil pH: | Slightly acidic to slightly alkaline, 6.5-7.5 |
| Exposure: | Full sun | Soil Drainage: | Well-draining |
| Time to Maturity: | 50-60 days, depending on cultivar | Companion Planting: | Melons, cucumbers, sweet peppers, eggplant |
| Spacing: | Thin to 12 inches | Avoid Planting With: | Short, sun loving veggies and flowers whose light may be blocked |
| Planting Depth: | 1 inch or less | Order: | Malvales |
| Height: | 3-6 feet | Family: | Malvaceae |
| Spread: | 12-48 inches depending on cultivar | Genus: | Abelmoschus |
| Water Needs: | Moderate, every 7-10 days | Species: | esculentus |
| Common Pests: | Aphids, armyworms, cabbage loopers, corn earworms, cucumber beetles, flea beetles, stink bugs, thrips, root knot nematodes, spider mites | Common Disease: | Charcoal rot, fusarium wilt, powdery mildew, southern blight, white mold, yellow vein mosaic virus |
Edibles Rule
There are so many reasons to add okra to your garden planner this growing season.
Whether you cultivate it as a vegetable for the table, or a decorative specimen in beds and borders, it’s going to make a bold statement in your outdoor living space.
Easy to grow and virtually trouble free with the right conditions, okra’s hibiscus-like yellow blossoms and pods of striking proportions offer season-long interest, and the opportunity for gardening fun with the family.
Remember, the more nutritious veggies your garden grows, the healthier you can be. You’re not going to want to let that fresh produce go to waste when you grew it yourself! Why not dedicate more of your landscape to the cultivation of edible plants, and make every square foot count
© Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Eden Brothers and Seedsurvivor. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. With additional writing and editing by Allison Sidhu.
Growing okra - FloweryVale.ru
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Okra or okra is a relative of mallow .
Okra is an annual tropical plant with broad, maple-like leaves and large creamy axillary flowers. The plant is self-pollinating. Two forms of okra are known: fast-maturing bushy, up to 1 meter high, successfully growing in the temperate climate zone and liana-shaped, up to 2 meters high, with a long ripening period. Okra is valued for its pod-boxes, for which it was dubbed "lady's fingers". Okra pods can be white, red or green. Unripe okra pods, dried, marinated, fried and used in salads and side dishes, like chickpeas. Ripe dried okra fruits are ground into powder and used as a spice or coffee substitute.
Okra can be grown in a summer cottage. Okra prefers well-drained soils filled with organic matter, better on the southern slope. It grows well if it has enough heat and light, although it is indifferent to the length of daylight hours. In the southern regions, okra seeds are sown directly into the ground according to a 60x30 cm pattern.
In temperate regions, okra is best grown through seedlings. Okra seeds germinate at a soil temperature of +16°C, while seedlings develop only at a stable temperature in the range of 20 to 30°C and do not tolerate frost at all. Therefore, in March, okra seeds are sown in pots with a diameter of 6-10 centimeters and covered with foil or glass. A week before germination, the temperature is maintained at about + 21 ° C, when seedlings appear, it is evenly reduced and gradually brought to the optimum in the third week.
When seedlings of okra reach 10-15 centimeters in height, in early June it is transplanted into well-filled with organic matter, weed-free soil.
Planting okra obligatory cover with a film or non-woven material from wind and cold, water regularly, it is good to mulch the soil. Okra is loved by aphids, thrips, garden cutworms, and powdery mildew.
Okra grows well in greenhouse , the main thing is that the temperature is at least 20°C and high humidity of about 70%.
For better branching and growth of side shoots, pinch the top of the main stem from the okra when it reaches 40 centimeters in height. From this moment, every two weeks, the plants are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or ash (20 g per bucket of water). Nitrogen is best avoided. As grows, tie the okra stems to support . Depending on the climate and care, 6 or more pods are formed on one plant, which are harvested 8-11 weeks after sowing. Unripe pods are cut with a knife when they are bright green. They can be stored for up to ten days in a box with holes for ventilation, but it is better to put them in the refrigerator, where they will last longer.
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Like many gardeners, I'm always interested in trying something new - what if a new crop or variety turns out to be worthy and "take root" in our family? Once my inquisitive gaze fell on okra, and I decided to definitely get to know this mysterious culture better. In the first season, I planted only two bushes and got a tiny harvest. He did not allow me to fully enjoy this crop, but gave me the opportunity to learn that okra, as okra is also called, has a very pleasant taste and is worth growing more of it.
Secrets of growing okraAfter that, I decided to plant okra in a significant amount, but as it turned out, it was really lucky that this vegetable did not cause me any problems in the first year. In the future, I could not get a crop of okra for several years in a row.
And only in the third season I was able to again feel the pleasant oily taste of the pods of this unusual plant. In this article, I would like to analyze all the problems associated with growing okra in order to enable gardeners to get a significant harvest in the first season. Difficulties of seedling age
The main problem of okra at the seedling stage is an excessive tendency to stretch. Okra sprouts literally appear from the ground already in an overgrown state - 6 or even 10 centimeters long. In the future, this leads to the fact that the seedlings are bent, lie down and twist among themselves, complicating the pick. To avoid this, containers with crops are initially kept on the south window, or moved to a minimum distance to the phytolamp.
Many sources say that okra does not like transplants, but I did not notice that the pickled senets suffered greatly. In addition, it will help to deepen the long leg if the seedlings are still outgrown.
However, I still prefer to sow two seeds in individual half-litre pots from the start, okra usually germinates well and extra seedlings can simply be plucked out.
At the same time, I initially fill the cups halfway, and as the seedling grows, I gradually add earth, and new roots form on the stem. One of the most serious problems when growing okra is planting in open ground. It was at this stage that I repeatedly completely lost beautiful strong seedlings. The fact is that, although in the future okra can grow into a huge plant with a thick trunk, becoming like a palm tree, okra seedlings are extremely vulnerable.
Without knowing it, I traditionally tried to plant okra in mid-May, along with tomatoes and peppers. But for okra it turned out to be disastrous, everything that the usual cultures endured without serious problems. Due to the fact that at the seedling age the okra has very thin, weak stems, it can be problematic even to bring it in a car to the landing site without loss. What to say if the weather at this time is too windy...
Another problem is the temperature. Okra is more sensitive to low temperatures, and if most vegetables are destroyed by frost, then even approaching zero can be fatal for heat-loving okra.
Okra, or Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus). © Lyudmila Svetlitskaya
It was the combination of wind, rain and low temperatures in May that led to the fact that for several years in a row I completely lost seedlings, which were planted with a strong, healthy and lush life. Advantages of late sowing of okra for seedlings
Summarizing my negative experience, I came to the conclusion that planting okra seedlings in May in our climate is too risky, which meant that it was necessary to drastically revise the sowing dates.
Most sources recommend sowing okra for seedlings from mid-March to April. However, most likely, such an early date is recommended because shoots of okra sometimes have to be expected within 2-3 weeks. My experience has shown that the most common soaking of okra seeds in the preparation "Epin-extra" significantly reduces the germination time, and seedlings of most varieties appear in a few days (maximum in a week).
After germination, okra develops at a tremendous rate, and when sown in March, seedlings reach a considerable size by May, which increases the risk that the long stems will break for various reasons.
Practice has shown that before the stems harden as they grow, even a garter does not save, because they break even in those places where they are tied up. Thus, I decided to completely abandon early sowing, and sowed seeds only at the beginning of May. This was done in the same way as when planting in early spring - indoors, on the southern windowsill, in individual cups, after pre-soaking the seeds.
The seedlings got to a permanent place only in the last days of May, when the weather was real summer, and there were no cold strong winds and the threat of a significant cooling. Thanks to the late sowing, the seedlings were not overgrown, they endured transportation better and took root faster.
In the summer sun, the okra immediately began to grow and soon reached an impressive size. Individual specimens that received the most sun were over 1.5 meters in height and had huge lobed leaves, giving a tropical feel. The okra bloomed at the end of July, and in August I was already able to harvest.
'Alabama Red' okra flower has classic lemon tones, but stems and petioles are red. © Lyudmila Svetlitskaya
Difficulties in harvesting okra
I would like to draw attention to the fact that okra is a relatively low-yielding plant. To collect a significant number of pods, taste and eat plenty, you will have to have a small plantation, a couple of bushes are not enough.
Okra pods are harvested when they are 4-5 centimeters in size. When you go to harvest, be sure to bring scissors or pruners with you, as the pods are very difficult to tear off the stem by hand. The anatomy of this plant is such that the fruits are in the axils of the leaves, if the pod is carelessly torn off, the nearby leaf will dry out and this will weaken the plant.
Sometimes there is a temptation to hold the fruits longer so that they increase in size. However, the fibers rapidly harden, the outer fibers coarsen and the pods become unfit for food.
The main indicator that you have harvested the fruits on time is the ease of cutting.
Young fruits are very easy to chop, but if you have difficulty cutting the pods, then these are overripe fruits that will not become soft even after cooking and it is better to throw them away. Seeds from unripe okra pods do not need to be selected, after cooking they also become soft and tasty. The taste of okra is not easy to describe, but if you are a fan of asparagus and vegetable dishes, then you will definitely like it. For me, this is an improved version of green beans, more oily and rich.
Okra "Lady's fingers". © Lyudmila Svetlitskaya Oak "Eagle Pass". © Lyudmila Svetlitskaya Okra "Alabama Red". © Lyudmila SvetlitskayaVarieties of okra that I grew
This season I tested three of the most popular okra varieties. I would like to tell you a little about each of them.
Okra Ladyfingers
This variety is the most affordable and seeds of this variety can be found in many retail outlets. Nevertheless, out of the three tested varieties, he proved to be an outsider.
This okra had the narrowest pods and the thinnest walls, as a result - little pulp. In section they were pentagonal, with a wall 1 mm thick. From above, the fruits were covered with hairs and had a light green color. The height of the bushes was also lower than the rest, about 40 centimeters.
Taste-wise: Ladyfingers okra was no different from other varieties, so you can safely plant this variety to get an opinion on whether you like okra.
Okra "Eagle Pass"
It was the plants of this variety that gave the highest bushes - more than 1.5 meters in height with a thick trunk 3 centimeters in diameter and large lobed leaf blades - about 30 centimeters.
In addition to their impressive size, the most remarkable thing about Eagle Pass is the pods. They are the same light green color and are covered with small stripes, like the Lady Fingers variety. But the pod consists of many faces, and when cut, it is found that the fruit has a noticeably thicker wall - 2-3 millimeters.
This, of course, affects the overall yield for the better, and the multifaceted pod itself is noticeably thicker. In addition, such a star-like structure makes the appearance of the fruit more original, resembling gears and stars in the cut. The description of this variety states that it is distinguished by a reduced content of mucus, and for some housewives this is an additional plus, since additional processing is not required to remove excess mucous juice.
Despite the powerful trunk, this okra had to be tied to a support, since the adult “palm tree”, although it does not break, but in the wind it collapses on its side.
Okra 'Ladyfingers' (right) is significantly inferior to 'Eagle Pass' (left). © Lyudmila SvetlitskayaOkra "Alabama Red"
The main difference of the variety is the dark red color of the trunk and petioles, while the leaves are green, although the veins are also slightly reddish. The flowers of this variety are no different from other okra cultivars - lemon-colored petals, and in the center there are small burgundy areas.
Due to the name of the cultivar, you might sometimes think that the pods of this okra should be red, but this is not entirely true. They are the same light green and differ only in a slight burgundy-red coating closer to the tip of the pod.
The fruits of this variety remain tender longer and do not become rough, even when they grow to 10 cm in length. Another feature is a pleasant sweetish aftertaste that is not inherent in most other varieties. "Alabama Red" is quite tall, and mature plants reached a height of 1 to 1.5 meters.
Eagle Pass okra leaf has an impressive size. © Lyudmila Svetlitskaya The leaves of the Alabama Red okra are distinguished by dark veins. © Lyudmila SvetlitskayaDear readers! There are many interesting varieties of okra, the seeds of which are available from collectors. In the future, I plan to test new okra cultivars in my conditions in order to select a few of the best varieties. So far, the Eagle Pass okra has been the best for me.
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