Radishes in garden


Growing radishes in home gardens

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Quick facts

Garden radishes and daikons 

Radishes come in many sizes, colors, and types. Most familiar are the garden radishes (Raphanus sativus var. radicula). Garden radishes have a spicy flavor and crisp juicy texture. They are good in salads and can stand alone as a snack.

Radishes may be spherical or carrot-shaped, and in a rainbow of colors: green, white, pink, red, purple and yellow. You may plant these small roots in the spring, but you can also grow them as a fall crop.

Home gardeners can also grow the long, white, Asian radish (R. sativus var. longipinnatus), often called daikon, its Japanese name. These roots can grow to large sizes, and are typically less spicy or hot than the garden types. Gardeners often plant them in the late summer for a late fall harvest. You can store them for fresh use for up to two months.

Radishes do best when grown in cooler conditions, and are tolerant of cold weather. You can grow tender, juicy, flavorful radishes if the plants grow quickly without stress. They may develop a flower that goes to seed, develop excessively hot flavor or become woody during the heat of a typical Minnesota summer.  

You should follow seed packet or catalog recommendations for individual varieties.

Planting

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How to keep your radishes healthy and productive

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Managing pests, diseases, and disorders

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Authors: Marissa Schuh, Extension educator, and Jill MacKenzie

Reviewed in 2022

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How to Grow Radishes

When you think of a radish (Raphanus sativus), you most likely imagine the root vegetable that's small, round, red, and tangy. The most popular radishes fit this description, though there are several varieties that differ in appearance. They can be round or oblong; hot or mild; red, pink, purple, white or bicolor.

Radishes are annual vegetables that are members of the Brassicaceae family, along with broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and collards. They are planted in the spring (for a spring harvest) or late summer (for a fall harvest). And they have a quick growth rate. Some of the smaller varieties mature in as few as 30 days. The larger varieties can keep you waiting for up to 60 days.

Common Name  Radish, common radish, garden radish, rabone
Botanical Name  Raphanus sativus
Family Brassicaceae
Plant Type  Annual, vegetable
Size  6 - 8 inches tall
Sun Exposure  Fun sun
Soil Type  Loamy, sandy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH  Acidic, neutral (6 to 7)
Bloom Time  Summer
Hardiness Zones  2–11 (USDA)
Native Area  Asia

How to Plant Radishes

When to Plant

Direct seed radishes in the garden in the early spring as soon as the ground is workable. Because they mature so quickly, plant them weekly (succession sow) to ensure you have an ongoing supply of radishes. You also can plant them again toward the end of summer and early fall at least four to six weeks prior to your first fall frost. When spring temperatures reach 65 degrees, stop planting, as they will bolt in the heat.

Selecting a Planting Site

Pick a sunny spot with rich, loose, well-draining soil. Container growing is also an option. Because radishes grow quickly, they can be squeezed in between slower-to-sprout plants, such as carrots, in the vegetable garden. The radishes will be harvested before the other plants need the space. Plus, radishes are good for loosening and cultivating the soil. Just make sure no nearby plants will shade out your radishes.

Spacing, Depth, and Support

Sow seeds around 1/2 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Thin seedlings to 3 inches apart. Rows should be spaced three inches apart. A support structure won't be necessary.

Radish Plant Care

Light

Radish plants need full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Radishes grown in too much shade will put energy into leaf growth rather than root growth.

Soil

Radishes do best in rich, loamy or sandy, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. The soil must not be heavy or compacted, as the roots won't grow well in those conditions.

Water

Radish plants typically need 1 inch of water per week. Soil that's too dry can cause the plant to bolt (go to seed) and ruin the taste of the radishes, making it pithy, and soil that's too wet can cause the roots to split and rot. A layer of mulch around the plants can help to maintain soil moisture.

Temperature and Humidity

Radishes like temperatures between 40 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, with temperatures in the low 60s being best. Hot weather can cause the plants to bolt and decline in quality. They can get tough and woody or spongy with hollow centers. Also, once a radish bolts, the bulb stops forming. Humidity typically isn't an issue as long as adequate soil moisture is maintained and there's good air flow around the plants.

Fertilizer

If you’re already starting with rich soil, you typically won’t need to fertilize radishes. If you need to improve your soil, work in a few inches of compost prior to planting.

Pollination

Bees and other pollinators will pollinate radish plants. And radish varieties will cross-pollinate with one another. 

The Spruce / K. Dave

The Spruce / K. Dave

The Spruce / K. Dave

The Spruce / K. Dave

Types of Radishes

There are many radish varieties that differ based on their appearance and when they can be grown. They include:

Radishes vs. Turnips

As root vegetables, radishes and turnips have a similar look to them. But there are some notable differences. For one, radishes are generally smaller than turnips.

Harvesting Radishes

Take note of when your radish variety should be ready for harvesting. In general, harvest when the roots are around 1 inch in diameter. You can often see the shoulders of the radish rising slightly above the soil line. You might have to pull one out to see whether it’s ready. Don’t wait too long to harvest to ensure a pleasant flavor and tender texture. 

To harvest, pull up the plants, and cut off both the tops and the thin roots. Leaving the leaves on will draw moisture and nutrients from the radish bulb. The greens can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days and can be eaten fresh or cooked. The bulbs can be stored in the refrigerator's vegetable crisper for one to two weeks. They also are good fresh or cooked in salads, soups, and more.

How to Grow Radishes in Pots

Container growing is a good option if you don’t have garden space or the loose soil that radishes need. Common radish roots are shallow, so they don’t require that deep of a pot. But it’s best to grow a round variety, rather than a long one, to make sure it has enough room to develop. A container that’s around 8 to 12 inches wide and deep should be fine. It also should have ample drainage holes. Unglazed clay containers are beneficial because they’ll allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through their walls, helping to prevent root rot. Use any high quality potting soil. Containers dry out more quickly and need more watering than in-ground gardens. Monitor moisture closely.

Pruning

You won’t have to do any pruning on your radish plants beyond thinning seedlings. If the radishes remain crowded, they won’t develop properly. Fortunately, you can eat the seedlings you thin. Snip them off at ground level rather than pulling up their roots to avoid disturbing the roots of neighboring plants. 

Propagating Radishes

Radishes are typically grown from seed. And it’s possible to collect seeds from mature plants for future growth. You just have to make sure the plants haven’t cross-pollinated with any nearby relatives. Here’s how to save the seeds:

  1. Rather than pulling the radishes as they mature, allow the plant to remain in the ground. Eventually it will send up a flower stalk and produce seed pods. 
  2. Remove mature seed pods once they’ve turned brown and dried out. Crush the pods to release the seeds. Separate the seeds from the rest of the pods.
  3. Place the seeds in a paper envelope, and store them in a cool, dry spot. They should remain viable for five years. 

How to Grow Larger Radish Varieties From Seed

Sow seeds of large radish varieties slightly deeper than the small varieties. Gently firm the soil around the seeds, and keep it evenly moist but not soggy. Germination should occur in around three to 10 days. Make sure to remove any weeds around your seedlings to prevent competition for moisture and nutrients. 

Overwintering

Radishes are annuals, meaning they complete their life cycle in one growing season. So no overwintering will be necessary.

Common Pests and Plant Diseases

Cabbage maggots are common pests for radish plants, as they will tunnel into the radishes. Cutworms also feed on radishes. And flea beetles will feed on radish leaves, but they won't injure the bulbs. Monitor to catch these insects before they destroy the whole crop. Growing your radishes under floating row covers can help to prevent pest issues. Wood ash mixed into soil can help deter root maggot. Some diseases that can affect radish plants include downy mildew, black root, and scab. But maintaining proper growing conditions can prevent many problems with diseases.  

Growing radishes: 8 secrets to a bumper harvest

Radishes can also be grown at home on the windowsill, but due to the limited area, it is unlikely that you will be able to get an unprecedented harvest. Therefore, from late April to September, it is better to sow radishes in open ground and properly care for the crop.

Early radish varieties ( 18 days, White Breakfast, Jolie, Zhara, Poker, Rhodes, Champion ) ripen 20-25 days after germination, mid-ripening varieties ( Ilka, Red with a white tip, Ice icicle, Saxa ) - after 26-35 days, and later ( Dungan 12/8, Karmina, Red Giant ) - after 36 or more days.

At the same time, early and mid-season varieties are more resistant to frost and bolting. And vegetables of late varieties are tastier and healthier, because during the growing season they have time to accumulate more sugars and vitamins, and they are also more productive and stored longer.

In order for radishes of any variety to produce the maximum number of fruits, important principles must be observed in caring for the plant.

1. Correct soil

When preparing the bed, the soil is loosened to a depth of 20-30 cm and leveled from above. For 1 sq.m, half a bucket of sand and humus is added, 1 tbsp. ammonium nitrate, 1.5 tbsp. potassium sulfate and 2 tbsp. superphosphate.

When growing radishes, manure must not be applied to the soil. In general, any nitrogen fertilizer can contribute to the formation of voids in the middle of the root crop.

Dolomite flour (0.5 l per sq.m.) is also added to the soil with high acidity. And heavy clay soil is mixed with sand (at the rate of 1 bucket of sand per sq.m).

2. Suitable location

Radishes are sown in an open (sunny) but wind-sheltered area.

Radishes are best sown in cool and humid weather

3. Quality seeds

In spring and early summer, seeds of early varieties are sown, and late ones - not until August. For better and friendly seedlings, the seeds are pre-germinated in a damp cloth for 2-3 days. To speed up this process, you can add a drop of Epin-Extra or Zircon to the napkin.

4. Competent sowing

On the prepared bed, grooves are made 2-3 cm deep at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Seeds are placed in them every 5 cm. In a region with an unstable climate in April-May, the bed is covered with spanbond for the night.

Although radishes easily endure frosts down to -4°C, but with a lack of heat, the seeds germinate poorly. The optimum temperature for the friendly emergence of seedlings is 15-20 ° C. Under these conditions, the sprouts will hatch in 3 days. And at a lower temperature, seedlings will have to wait from 6 to 12 days.

5. Watering radishes

The main condition for a rich harvest is regular watering. The soil in the garden with radishes should always be moderately moist. With a lack of moisture, the roots will become bitter and flabby.

In hot weather, crops are watered every day.

Also, after each watering, the soil is loosened to a depth of 3-5 cm. Thanks to this, the roots will be able to "breathe".

6. Top dressing

On fertile soils, fertilizers can be omitted, and on depleted soils, it is necessary to use herbal infusion diluted in water. The container is filled with water by ¼, then freshly harvested plants are poured there (at the rate of 10 kg of grass per 100 liters of water) and 2 kg of dry chicken manure are added. The container is covered with a net, the infusion is stirred daily and used after the liquid stops fermenting (gas bubbles will not be released). This usually happens after 1-3 weeks.

The resulting infusion is diluted with water 1:1 and watered under the root of the plants.

7. Light regimen

Plants should ideally be exposed to light for 10-12 hours. If daylight hours last 13-14 hours, and the air temperature reaches 25 ° C, then later varieties of radish do not form a root crop, but bloom. Such plants are covered with a dark non-woven material so that they are exposed to light for no more than 10 hours a day.

If you don't want to bother with cover, from the second half of May sow only varieties that are resistant to bolting

8. Cruciferous flea control

This is the most dangerous pest of radishes. It is not recommended to use chemical insecticides so that substances harmful to human health do not accumulate in root crops. Therefore, attention must be paid to preventive measures.

Due to their precocity and unpretentiousness, radishes were successfully grown on the International Space Station.

Radishes can be grown in individual beds or in mixed plantings next to cabbages, potatoes and cucumbers. With proper care, the plants will thank you with a good harvest.

timing, scheme, depth, watering, varieties

The earliest varieties of radish

15 days. This is the earliest of all radish varieties. Just imagine: in mid-April you sowed, and already on the May holidays you serve it to the table! Root crops have a classic shape. The pulp is tender, very juicy, crispy, slightly spicy taste. Productivity - 2.5 - 3.1 kg per 1 sq. m (1). The variety does not shoot. Root crops do not crack.

Ripens, as the name suggests, 15 days.

Recommended for all regions of Russia.

French breakfast. This variety is interesting both in shape and color - its roots are red with a white tip and long, somewhat similar to the Nantes carrot with a blunt nose. Its flesh is white, juicy and very tasty. Productivity - 1.3 kg per 1 square. m (1). Ripens 20 - 25 days.

Recommended for all regions of Russia.

Gold. This radish looks more like small turnips - its roots are yellow on the outside. And the flesh is white. Tender, very juicy and tasty. Productivity - 1.2 - 2 kg per 1 sq. m (1). Drought tolerant, does not bloom. Matures 19- 21 day.

Recommended for all regions of Russia.

Mokhovsky. This variety has very delicate roots both in color - they are white on the outside and in taste. Their flesh is dense, juicy, excellent taste. The shape is classic, round. Ripens 19 - 31 days.

Recommended for all regions of Russia.

Icicle. This radish is also white in color, but its roots are long, similar to daikon, but smaller - 15 cm long. Their flesh is snow-white, juicy, with a delicate piquant taste. Doesn't wobble for a long time. The variety is very productive - each radish weighs about 40 g, while the classic round varieties - about 15 g. And it occupies the same area. So from one bed you can get a crop of 2.5 times more than if you sow round varieties. Productivity - 2 kg per 1 square. m (1). Ripens 30 days.

Recommended for all regions of Russia.

Sowing radish

Radish is a cold-resistant plant (2), so it is sown very early, already in April. Then they harvest and forget about it until the next spring. Meanwhile, this crop can be grown several times per season!

There are 5 dates when you can sow radishes.

From 15 to 25 April. This is a classic term - the weather is usually already suitable. The optimum temperature for radishes is 15 - 18 ° C, taking into account the latest climatic realities - in the middle lane this is just the second half of April. He is not afraid of spring frosts - shoots can easily withstand temperatures down to -4 ° C, and adult plants - up to -8 ° C.

From 5 to 20 May. This is the last spring term when you can still get a crop.

From the beginning of June until almost the end of July, radishes are not sown - the heat and long daylight hours lead to the fact that the plants shoot arrows - they begin to bloom, but do not form a root crop.

From 25 July to 5 August. At this time, mid-season varieties can be sown - by the time the root crops are tied, it will be cool and the day will be shorter than in summer. Ideal varieties that ripen 30 - 35 days: Rose-red with a white tip, Mokhovsky, Regge, Saxa RS, Saratov, Virov white, Poker.

From 25 August to 1 September. If the autumn is planned to be warm, you can sow radishes directly on the beds. If weather forecasters promise cold weather, then go to the greenhouse. Late varieties that ripen in 40-50 days are ideal for autumn sowing: Red Giant, Würzburg 59, Dungan 12/8, Autumn Giant, Riesenbutter.

Root vegetables of these varieties can be stored in the refrigerator for 3-4 months.

From 25 October to 5 November. This is the so-called winter sowing. It is good because it allows you to unload the sowing in the spring. And radishes sown before winter sprout earlier and yield faster.

But it is important not only to meet the deadlines, but also to sow the seeds correctly.

Seeding depth. Radishes have large seeds, they are advised to close up by 1 - 1.5 cm. But practice has shown that it is better to sow smaller - by 0.5 cm. If you dig deeper, the roots will turn out to be fibrous.

Seeding scheme. In a row 4 - 5 cm, between rows - 10 - 12 cm (3).

Growing radishes

Temperature. Optimum temperature for growing radishes is 15-18°C (4).

Location. To get a rich harvest, you need to grow radishes in a bright area.

Predecessors. The ideal option is to sow radishes after cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, potatoes or peas. But after his cruciferous relatives (cabbage, radish, rutabaga, mustard), you can’t sow - they have common diseases and pests.

Radish care

Watering. In order for root crops to grow juicy, radishes should be watered frequently - every 2 - 3 days. Irrigation rate - 4 - 5 liters per 1 sq. m. If it is not possible to water so often, the bed should be mulched with sawdust (deciduous trees) or grass - this will prevent moisture from evaporating.

Top dressing. Forget about them - fertilizers will only harm radishes. It ripens quickly, it will have enough of what is in the soil.

Weeding. Weeds can leave you without a crop: they shade the radish and rob it of moisture. Weed out the grass while it is small. If you pull large plants, you can damage the roots.

Loosening. The next day after each watering and rain, the soil in the beds with radishes must be loosened - the soil crust leads to the fact that the roots grow rough and bitter. But if your beds are mulched, then there is no need to loosen them.

Fight against cruciferous flea. The easiest way to protect radishes from this pest is to place arcs over the bed and cover with non-woven fabric. This is a 100% guarantee that the flea will not eat the leaves clean. Folk remedies do not work on it. And you can’t use chemicals to treat radish beds - they decompose longer than the crop ripens.

Popular Questions and Answers

Why do voids form in radish roots?

As a rule, voids in root crops appear in heat and drought. That is why radishes need to be grown either in spring or in late summer and autumn. And it is very important to water it often - the soil should be moist all the time.

Why do radishes grow rough?

The reason is the lack of moisture - radishes need to be watered very often: in cool weather every other day, in hot weather - daily.

Is it possible to grow radishes at home on the windowsill?

You can, but not for the sake of root crops (you can't harvest a big crop at home), but for the sake of greenery - it is very vitamin and ideal for fresh salads.


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