Hydrangea bushes in winter

It's a wrap! Here's how to put hydrangeas to bed for the winter.

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Here’s expert advice from guest bloggers Megan Nichols and Jessie Jacobson of Tonkadale Greenhouse in Minnetonka, MN on how to put hydrangeas to bed for the winter season. (Their zip code may just contain more hydrangea trees and shrubs than just about anywhere in the U.S. — in other words, they know!)

There is a chill in the air and the signs of autumn are everywhere. Soon it will be time to put the garden to bed. All season long hydrangeas reward us with big, beautiful, abundant blooms. It’s fair to say they are givers. Now, it’s time to give back. With goodnight kisses and sweat dreams wishes, the time to tuck in hydrangeas is upon us.

Here in Minnesota, unpredictable winter weather extremes, snow totals, and freeze/thaw cycles can swing as wildly as our vitamin d deprived, cabin-fever-fueled moods. Although many hydrangeas are considered hardy, all of this can throw them for a loop. They need some attention in order to survive the winter and coming back bigger and better next year. While it’s true that hydrangeas grown in warmer climates don’t require as much post-season primping as those grown in our zone, there’s no one who wouldn’t be grateful for a bit of TLC right about now.

Implement these steps to maximize your hydrangea potential so you will be the giver of this time next season!

(Is it time to prune? Yes and no. Here’s our advice on which hydrangeas to prune now and which can wait for spring.)

Don’t Stop Watering

Take the pledge! Raise your right hand and say “I will water my hydrangeas until the ground freezes solid.” Very good. It’s vital to water hydrangeas deeply and consistently as they are thirsty plants by nature. Their name basically means hydration, but we don’t need to geek out with Latin right now! Cool, drying winter winds suck the moisture right out of the plants – and hydrangeas don’t use lip balm. Doesn’t have to be hot to be dry!

In areas where a freeze is not an issue, water deeply but infrequently throughout the winter depending on the amount of rainfall you receive.

Here’s how:
One way is to make a small hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket, fill with water, and set at the base of the plant, allowing the water to trickle out slow. Another is to turn on your hose to a slow trickle and place at the base of the plant for an hour or so.

Give Them One Last Hearty Meal

Give your hydrangeas a boost for the next growing season by adding compost to your beds in the fall. After a good night’s sleep, everybody feels better with a good breakfast in their belly. The same is true for hydrangeas. They’ll be hungry for some good compost after a long winter’s nap. Applied now, compost can break down overwinter, making nutrients readily available in spring. Even in areas without a deep freeze, a few inches of compost is a good idea. We’re only talking compost here! Don’t offer your hydrangeas nitrogen-rich fertilizers which might incline them to put out new leafy growth.

Here’s how:
In colder zones, when the ground has frozen and before applying mulch, top dress with compost, well-aged manure or other organic matter. This nutrient- rich, organic fertilizer will break down over the winter and nutrients will be available to the plant in spring. In warmer zones, apply compost in late fall or early winter.

Mulch Matters

In colder zones mulching protects and insulates the crown and roots of your hydrangeas from extreme winter temperatures; in warmer zones it helps keep moisture in and weeds out. If all goes as it should, snow acts as a natural insulator. Weird winters with little snowfall and drastic temperature swings are detrimental to plants. To give hydrangeas their best chance at success, apply a layer of chunky mulch around the base of the plant. Decorative mulch is helpful but we recommend straw, marsh hay, or fallen leaves.

Here’s how:
After the ground has frozen (or in warmer zones late fall or early winter) and you’ve top-dressed with compost apply a 6”-8” layer of mulch. This insulates plants and protects plants from the heave-ho of spring freeze/thaw cycles that can push them right out of the soil. Mulching too early invites rodents to make this their cozy winter dwelling, causes rotting and disease, or tricks the plant into thinking it’s time to wake up. Be patient, just because your neighbors are doing it early, doesn’t mean you have to too.

Keep Them Cozy

Whether or not hydrangeas need protection depends on how cold the winter temperatures drop. If the air temperature doesn’t go below 0 degrees (zone 7) there is no need for winter protection. In colder climates, wrap or completely cover marginally hardy hydrangeas. This is especially important for those that bloom on old wood, such as mop head/big leaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla). However, it’s good to note that the newer varieties of mop head/big leaf hydrangeas bloom on both new and old wood. Good for them, good for us! Generally, hardier hydrangeas such as the paniculata and arborescens types don’t need extra winter protection, but extreme cold can cause die-back of their branches. If a colder than normal winter in predicted, consider covering.

Here’s how:
Loosely wrap plants with a couple layers of burlap, making sure to secure it with sturdy twine. Another option is to make a mulch mountain, covering the majority of the plant. This method works best for newly planted, smaller specimens.

There’s Still Time To Plant!

Here in Zone 4, we are able to grow the first three types of hydrangeas; in warmer zones (zones 5 to 9) gardeners can also grow oak leaf hydrangeas. Fall is the best time for planting shrubs. Just be sure to follow the steps above, especially watering and mulching.

Here are a few of our favorites that you can plant right now for glorious blooms next spring.

Panicle Hydrangeas

Sometimes called PeeGee hydrangeas, these are late bloomers (summer into early fall). They’re covered with elongated, cone-shaped flower heads that start out white or green before blushing into pinks and peachy tones as the season progresses.

Strawberry Shake™ Hydrangea

Long-lasting white flowers quickly mature to a rich strawberry pink and deep rose as cool fall weather arises. This is a compact panicle hydrangea with sturdy stems that holds the beautiful flowers aloft. Up to 5' tall and 4' wide. Zones 4–8.

Candy Apple™ Hydrangea

This compact selection features big lime-green panicles that mature to pure white and are held atop strong, sturdy stems that don’t flop. Flowers and foliage take on rosy hues as temperatures drop in fall. Up to 5' tall and wide. Zones 4–8.

Mophead Hydrangeas

French, big leaf, mop head, call them what you may, these are the classic, high-summer hydrangeas with large round or lace cap flower heads. While white varieties stay white, those that start out pink or blue can range in color depending on the acidity or alkalinity of the soil. (Note: Not all macrophyllas are reliably hardy in the coldest zones, and a tough winter can shut down their flower power.)

Blue Enchantress® Hydrangea

Striking ruby-black stems support big mophead flowers on this exquisite re-bloomer. The large blooms turn blue in acidic soils and have a pink hue in alkaline soils. They mature to cream-splashed green. Up to 5' tall and wide. Zones 4–9.

Seaside Serenade® Hamptons Hydrangea

Huge ball-shaped blooms with thick, intense-pink florets on amazingly tough stems. The naturally compact habit has robust foliage with a maroon color in the spring and cinnamon-red in the fall. Up to 3.5' tall and 3' wide. Zones 4–9.

Smooth Hydrangeas

Native to North America and one of the prettiest, most useful flowering landscape shrubs, smooth hydrangeas bloom from late spring through summer into fall. Their big, round, flowers heads start out bright white and fade to limey green in the autumn.

Seaside Serenade® Bar Harbor Hydrangea

There's no need for another Annabelle option when you have Bar Harbor!

This is an extraordinary new, compact variety perfect for smaller spaces. Prolific amounts of big, white flowers turn heads all summer long, and the straight, sturdy stems stand tall even in heavy rain. These are perfect for borders, containers, and cutting gardens. Up to 4' tall and wide. Zones 3–8.

Oakleaf Hydrangea

While not as cold tolerant as other types of hydrangeas, if your zone works for the oak leaf varieties, you need to plant them. Native to the U.S., they bloom best in areas where summers are somewhat hot and can thrive in much dryer locations than their mophead cousins.

Ruby Slippers Oakleaf Hydrangea

Large, white blooms cover this shrub in summer and quickly age to a deep pink color. These large blooms remain upright on strong stems even after heavy rains. Oak-like foliage turns mahogany in fall. Up to 3.5' tall and 5' wide. Zones 5–9.

Snow Queen Oakleaf Hydrangea

Large, long clusters of flowers are held upright above the oak-like foliage. The flowers emerge white and become rose-pink in fall as leaves turn deep red-bronze. The exfoliate tan-brown bark is beautiful in winter. Up to 5' tall and 6' wide. Zones 5–9.

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When to prune hydrangeas | Grow Beautifully

6 years ago at 5:46 AM

[…] pruning requirements. Before you reach for the pruners, determine which species is growing.(Need advice on putting your hydrangeas to bed for the winter? We’ve got you […]

Kaye

6 years ago at 8:54 AM

Maybe I missed it but should hydrangeas be cut back at all in the Fall?

Kate Karam

6 years ago at 3:10 AM

Hi Kaye--it depends on the kind of hydrangea. It's all here in this companion post: http://growbeautifully.monrovia.com/when-to-prune-hydrangeas/

Marjorie

6 years ago at 9:54 PM

My hydrangeas never bloom! I bought 3 gorgeous verigated lacecaps...paid $75 each...never have seen them bloom since! Do they need a lot of sun, shade?????

Kate Karam

6 years ago at 1:19 AM

It's a misnomer that hydrangeas need shade. In the warmest climates they like some afternoon shade (and really, who doesn't!) but otherwise they do well in full sun. Tell me about where you have them planted, how old they are, and when you prune them. Maybe I can help you figure out this conundrum.

Judy Piroyan

6 years ago at 12:04 AM

Apparently you do not recommend cutting hydrangeas to the ground in fall? My Annabelle was very floppy this year- branches splayed out like a fan. I live in zone 3/4.

Kate Karam

6 years ago at 8:36 AM

Late winter or early spring is best. They bloom on new wood. As long as you prune before you see new growth, you're good to go.

Kate Karam

6 years ago at 8:31 AM

Endless Summer---this is a mophead thats been bred to bloom on both old and new wood. Can be pruned anytime. Quick Fireyes, this is a paniculata Boboalso a paniculata Pink Diamondlikely a paniculata Panicle hydrangeas bloom on new wood. in late winter or early spring before new growth begins cut stems back to about 18-24 inches high.

Peggy

6 years ago at 10:38 AM

Thank you for the advice!

Cliff Larson

6 years ago at 6:59 AM

How about some information on how to prune hydrangea's?

Kate Karam

6 years ago at 10:56 PM

Hi Cliff--there's a companion story about how and when to prune hydrangeas here: http://growbeautifully.monrovia.com/when-to-prune-hydrangeas/. If you have any specific questions, please let us know!

Deb Colletti

6 years ago at 5:06 AM

Please let me kn ow when to prune my hydrangeas.

Donna Mansfield

6 years ago at 7:38 AM

Enjoyed your article about hydrangeas. We live on the west side of the mountains in WA state and hydrangeas grow very well here. Like the idea of giving them some compost this time of the year.

Teresa

5 years ago at 10:58 AM

Love, love, love hydrangeas! I found this article helpful.

Deb Machel

5 years ago at 11:15 AM

My hydrangea did not bloom this year, and the leaves looked like they were spotted! Help!!

Gloria

5 years ago at 1:01 AM

Do I cut of the dried flowers

Mariann Kukla

5 years ago at 3:35 AM

We have many different types of hydrangeas and many have ?stopped blooming or have had fewer and fewer blooms each year. Our Our Nikki Blue have only 2 blooms this year. Big Daddy no blooms and Endless Summer 3 blooms. We do not trim these shrubs. Any suggestions?

Anne Fitzpatrick

5 years ago at 10:26 AM

I live in Queens, NY. I haven't cut back my hydrangea in a few years. Today someone told me I should cut it way down, but I felt it was too later & I will lose next spring's flowers.

Dee

5 years ago at 10:13 PM

I think it depends on the type of hydrangea you have. Remember next year's blooms grow on old wood, new wood or both.

Dee

5 years ago at 10:05 PM

I was wondering....I have 3 Cityline Rio Bigleaf Hydrangea which I planted in July 2017....do I cover all of the plant with the burlap or am I just wrapping the burlap around each plant?

Dee

5 years ago at 10:11 PM

I should have told you I live in Canada and the winters could sometime be very harsh with -15 degrees Celsius temperatures. I had gotten a lot of beautiful blooms this summer. I am worried about the branches breaking should heavy snow or freezing rain fall on them. I considered putting a plastic laundry basket with the holes on the sides over the plants to protect them. Is this crazy? I don't want my Cityline Rio Bigleaf Hydrangeas to die.

J. Nicatra

5 years ago at 7:49 AM

Love my

J. Nicatra

5 years ago at 7:50 AM

Love my plants

Michele Fabbro

5 years ago at 8:22 PM

All of my hydrangeas are mopheads. I plan to follow your suggestions above to prepare them for winter but "do I cut them" and if so, how much" for winter. Thanks

Kate Karam

5 years ago at 10:48 PM

It's all right here: http://growbeautifully.monrovia.com/when-to-prune-hydrangeas/ but the simple advice is you prune macrophylla hydrangeas in summer or early fall.

Kate Karam

5 years ago at 10:58 PM

I have just found this message, so apologies for late response. Here's the post with the info: http://growbeautifully.monrovia.com/when-to-prune-hydrangeas/ The short answer is you prune mopheads in late summer or early fall after they have finished blooming for the season.Remove up to one-third of the total stems each season, starting with the weakest shoots, both old and new ones. Cut these right down to the ground and remove. Whats left are a combination of old productive wood and strong new stems that will flower next season.

Debra Lorett

5 years ago at 4:07 AM

I had newly planted hydrangeas in September, in the first if November we had frost and some nights of freeze, which I put straw around and over my plants. Now its warmed up to 65-70 end of November they look droopy. Will it be ok to water the hydrangeas this late in the year and not harm them? Thank you

Kate Karam

5 years ago at 10:44 PM

They should be looking fairly wintery by now so no worries about that. As for watering, here's the deal--as long as you can water and assuming you are not having rains, you should continue to do so. It's really easy for plants to become desiccated in winter and dry up which affects roots. If you have solid frozen ground, don't bother to water, otherwise a good drink once a week is a great idea.

Gloria Kelly

5 years ago at 12:44 AM

Why is it not difficult to find information on how to protect your hydrangeas for the winter months but almost impossible to find out when to take the burlap protection off? I live in Pittsburgh and have still not been able to find that information in a reliable way. Most sites, including yours, say to take the protection off in the spring. Does that mean when the nights do not drop below 32 degrees so that the buds don't freeze? Could you please let me know? Thank you!

Kate Karam

5 years ago at 11:02 PM

So, I spoke with the grower at our CT nursery and here is what she had to say: "Thats exactly the case with regards to temperature. Its important to protect the base of the plant where new growth will start. Its especially important to leave protection on the plant when all chances of frost have past. One early frost can toast your only buds on Hydrangeas that bloom off of old growth. Generally in the north thats Memorial Day weekend, but some years its warmer around Mothers Day. Freezing cold temperatures can dry out the old growth and increase the amount of dead branches you could be pulling/cleaning out in the spring. :-) hope that helps!"

Frances White

5 years ago at 10:52 PM

Please share your opinion as to when the covering and mulch should be removed. I don't want to wait too long but want don't want to do it too early either. My hydrangeas are in the Chigo area.

Kate Karam

5 years ago at 9:47 PM

So, I spoke with the grower at our CT nursery and here is what she had to say: Its important to protect the base of the plant where new growth will start. Its especially important to leave protection on the plant when all chances of frost have past. One early frost can toast your only buds on Hydrangeas that bloom off of old growth. Generally in the north thats Memorial Day weekend, but some years its warmer around Mothers Day. Freezing cold temperatures can dry out the old growth and increase the amount of dead branches you could be pulling/cleaning out in the spring. ? hope that helps!

Claudette Collins

5 years ago at 7:27 AM

Because our hydrangea beds did not bloom (lots of lush green growth) lst summer, we didn't prune the plant last fall. What do we do with the 2 foot stems this spring? They are "Endless Summer" variety.

Claudette Collins

5 years ago at 1:14 AM

2 years ago we cut our Endless summer hydrangea back to 3 or 4 inches in late fall. These plants had bloomed profusely since planted 3 years prior. Last summer, we didn't get any blooms at all until late September and then only a few out of 12 plants with a north west exposure. So last fall we were told not to prune so we only removed the few blooms. Now we have the long branches and don't know what to cut off if anything. Please advise.

Kate Karam

5 years ago at 10:50 PM

Hi Claudette--sounds like a clear case of over-pruning (and I am wondering if your plants get enough light). Endless Summer blooms on both old and new wood. When you cut all that old wood, you cut away many of the existing flower buds. You got some blooms late in the season from buds that grew on the new growth of that same year. Your best course of action right now is to do NOTHING and see what happens this year. Let the plant have a chance to reset itself and then this fall, cut back the spent blooms. If the shape of the plant bothers you, you can prune it back by 1/3 - 1/2 in fall but once again you will be sacrificing flowers for one year, even two. Most mophead hydrangeas including Endless Summer need only minimal pruning.

victoria hesselbacher

4 years ago at 4:03 AM

Would you kindly recommend a journal or periodical or article or plant for flowering shrubs, trees, & hedges for zone 10, Saint Petersburg, FL? Specifically, I have recently relocated and am seeing young panicle hydrangea trees, and blooming hedges on Snell island in Saint Petersburg, FL. Thank you, victoria

victoria hesselbacher

4 years ago at 4:06 AM

I need a resource for flowering shrubs, trees, & hedges for Zone 10, Saint Petersburg, FL? Specifically, I have recently relocated and am seeing young hydrangea trees, and blooming hedges on Snell island in Saint Petersburg, FL. Thank you.

Bev Braun

4 years ago at 11:34 PM

My endless summer hydrangea which are about 10 years old havent bloom but a couple flowers at all in 5 years! We fertilize with malorganite and have added the powdered to make them blue. I pruned them years ago but have been afraid to prune after they failed to bloom.. have I totally ruined them?

Lauretta Peterson

4 years ago at 1:45 AM

I live in zone 3 and have planted Haas Halo shrubs, nine of them. How do I care for them for the winter?

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 11:29 PM

Wow, that's cold! Lovely smooth hydrangea variety that's very cold tolerant. Typically a dense snow cover will provide all the protection your plants need, but it never hurts to top them in late fall with a layer of chopped leaves or other organic mulch.

Marion

4 years ago at 9:49 PM

Last year I cut my hydrangea plant low 6-7 inches above the ground. It has not grown back. Should I remove the plant or may it still come back next year(s)? Thank you in advance.

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 11:05 PM

Hi Marion--by any chance do you know the type of hydrangea you have?

Eric Sykes

4 years ago at 3:33 AM

Thank you for this information on the winterizing of Hydrangea , have 4 varieties.

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 8:51 PM

Hi Eric--you are a hydrangea collector! We're glad it was helpful. Here's to a cold but not too brutal winter!

SUSAN BIRKENSHAW

4 years ago at 2:46 AM

On Oct 7 2016 you wrote a blog about Winterizing htdrsngeas and at the very top is a photo of pinkinsh hydrangeas with no identification could you please tell me the specific name of this one? Many thanks - S

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 5:30 AM

Hi Susan--that is Limelight Hardy Hydrangea (H. paniculata 'Limelight'). Here's the link (and I will add it to the story---thank you!): https://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/plants/3049/limelight-hardy-hydrangea/

Judy

4 years ago at 12:21 AM

When do I cut back hydrangeas? or do I need to?

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 3:33 AM

If you never pruned your hydrangeas they would be fine. The reason for pruning is to spur new growth, remove damaged branches, and manage size. The time to prune hydrangeas varies by the type of shrub.

Donna

4 years ago at 11:47 PM

Helpful sight. I have a city line Berlin in a pot. Outside all summer, brought inside when started to snow last week. Radical freeze/thaw cycles in northern Wyoming. I will overwinter it in garage, plant outside in late spring. Any advice to keep it hardy once it lives in the ground full time?

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 4:03 AM

Um SNOW?! Wow, that seems early. The Cityline series is hardy to zone 5 which might be a bit warmer than your zone's minimum temperatures A few tips (1) plant where the shrub has some shelter from high winds which can stress it out (2) apply several inches of mulch at the base of the plant in late fall to provide insulation and (3) hope for more snow which helps a lot. Do not be surprised it it takes a few years to settle in. It might skip a bloom cycle or be sparse from year to year. Or it may surprise you and be totally happy. Thanks for the great question.

Laurie

4 years ago at 10:05 AM

I want to trim the height of my mophead hydrangeas. How do I do this?

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 1:03 AM

Hi Laurie--At this point (late October) if you cut back your hydrangea, it is a very distinct possibility that you will remove buds that have grown this year set to flower next year. If you will wait until after they have finished blooming (likely late summer depending on the type), you can trim then. Try not to cut back by more than 1/3 of the height. You can always cut back again the next year if you don't reach the desired size. I hope this helps. Kate

Meg

4 years ago at 9:16 PM

I have a limelight hydrangea bush and a tree that were planted in the fall of 2014 and were beautiful this year but very overgrown and weighted down. I did only minimal research. and did not see this site, before deciding to cut back significantly last week, leaving 3 feet on the tree branches and 2 feet on the shrub. Since this variety grows on old wood, it seemed like a reasonable choice to bring it under control but the more I read, I am concerned that I have done permanent damage. I am in central New York so temperatures dip down to zero for a part of January. I plan to put compost down and was thinking I should wrap the plants in burlap to protect them since I have cut them down so severely. Have I killed these plants or should I just take precautions and hope for the best?

Alexandra Parker

4 years ago at 7:39 AM

Help....It is spring in FL now & I think I trimmed back my new hydranae too much. There are tiny buds ( a couple),. How can I bring it back to life?

rivercircle

4 years ago at 11:35 PM

Can anyone shed some light on my question? I have come to realize that my big leaf hydrangeas need winter cover to prevent winter damage in my cold winter climate. My question is, should I remove the cover prior to last frost to prevent any damage to the protected plant? Our days are warming nicely, but I still want to prevent any fungal type problems due to the impaired airflow to my large shrub. Thanks for any insights.

Karen Lea Cline

4 years ago at 11:48 PM

wondering if a plant was left outside , looking dead . what to do to bring it back is it possible?

Elaine

4 years ago at 3:58 PM

Would like to grow a white Hydrangea plant . Live in the snow cold country of idaho - any suggestions of which kind ? We have deers/ Bears and critters around ?

Debra

3 years ago at 2:20 AM

What is your zone? Annabelle may be perfect - to zone 4.

Lorraine Belcourt

3 years ago at 3:40 AM

Do I cut my new hydrangea back when preparing it for winter?

Jan Conti

3 years ago at 1:49 AM

I need a easier way to winterize the hydrangea plants I have 5 in a row. I m a senior with arthritis .

Lisa

3 years ago at 10:00 PM

Hi. I am in zone 5,N.E. Pa., and i want to over winter my potted hydrangea.I have no garage but am thinking about putting it in the open woodshed where it will be exposed to the cold but partially protected. Would that work with some protection on top and occasional water? Also, if it's protected from snow do I add water all winter,should it be warm water so it gets absorbed before it freezes?

Trish Lodor

3 years ago at 3:50 AM

This has been so helpful! Thank you!

Kathy Gilliland

3 years ago at 12:47 AM

I am a new hydrangea owner & we are experiencing our first freezes of the year. I have read you information which is incredibly informative but still have a couple of questions. Although it has been freezing st night, I have been covering the plant to protect it. Do I leave it uncovered & let it freeze to kill the foliage before pruning ( this is its first year so it is only about a foot or 2 tall) or just cut back now. Also do I let it go dormant before mulching and covering for winter?

Jody

3 years ago at 12:35 AM

My hydrangeas are in pots not in the ground. How should I winterize them? I live in MN as well. Thanks

M.J.

3 years ago at 4:26 AM

I have 8 Endless Summer plants. Can I use peat moss to cover the base of the plants for winter? (zone 4)

Lil Jernigan

3 years ago at 12:30 AM

What do you do with a root ball given to you in October in zone 7-9. Do we plant? Keep watered? Or just let it sit out of frost area?

Julie Dembiczak

3 years ago at 5:28 AM

I live in Chisholm Minnesota and I have 2 limelight Panicle Hydrangeas. Will the deer eat them if I do not cut off the flowers? Am I supposed to cut off the flowers in the fall? What would you suggest? I live in the country with deer around.

Jill Krygowski

3 years ago at 8:07 AM

We just got snow here on Halloween. .before I could do any hydrangeas prepping..I have 4 beautiful plants this year..but not sure how to care for them for the the 4 seasons..I'm in mid Illinois, will county. Any suggestions would be appreciated

Lyla E.

3 years ago at 11:52 PM

Thanks for this great article answering about any concern I had.

Carolyn Tanner

3 years ago at 10:20 PM

great information..... one question..my plants are tall, short, stubby , thin foliage... many plants in several areas .protected by tall brick walls, mulched in late September. buds are big and healthy. Do you or should I trim back some of the tall reaching branches ? Thanks Carol

Robin E Brown-Wood

3 years ago at 8:27 AM

this article was supposed to be about pruning hydrangeas for winter; that was never addressed!! not helpful at all for ME as that is the question i had regarding my hydrangea......

Jon Thorne

3 years ago at 6:41 AM

Mop head , container rasised, 1-1. 5ft tall central west Texes zone 7? How should I assure rebloom in spring? Thanks Jon

Janet

3 years ago at 11:30 PM

I have a Petite Hydrangea that is about five years old. Im in western Pa, so it gets cold during the winter but not like Minnesota. Its in a bed in the front of my house decorated with red rock. Should I put some sort of protection on the ground? This will cover up the rock though. In the past after cutting it back, I sprinkled some fertilizer on top of the rock at the base of the plant...that was about it. I also trimmed the branches...allowing them to remain about 10 high. Any problem with this? It seems to work. I fertilize in the spring too.

Kate Karam

3 years ago at 6:29 AM

Hi Janet--you are doing everything right except I would not fertilize in the fall as this only encourages new growth that could end up getting zapped by the cold. As for winter protection, there is no need to do more than add a few inches of mulch to the base or pile fallen leaves around the base both of which can help. Keep watering if you get a warm snap. All that said, it is not impossible to get a late cold blast that can impact flowering but there's not much you can really do about that. Enjoy your hydrangeas--real garden treasures!

Pat Arent

3 years ago at 3:46 AM

When do I cut off t he dead blooms and how far down to I cut? to the ground?

Chris Glazier

2 years ago at 5:35 AM

No I just read about ones blooming on old wood may be setting buds farther down. Early enough in year maybe take longer cuts. You would only cut to the ground during major reconstruction i believe and should take a couple times to do it down to where it will fill in better. Though some that down to the ground might re grow in a bad year.

Lori Bennett

3 years ago at 9:01 AM

I live in Canada - Calgary, Alberta. So you know it gets cold up here. Can a Hydrangea survive a winter up here?

Sharon

2 years ago at 1:12 AM

Great information! I live in Wisconsin, but conditions are similar to Minnesota for winter. Thank you for the great advice!

How to Select the Right Hydrangea for Your Garden – Grow Beautifully

2 years ago at 3:13 AM

[…] Get tips to Prepare Your Hydrangeas for Winter […]

MarilynCarrol Grondine

2 years ago at 4:40 AM

I have a Hydrangea in a flower pot, and I live in Minnesota. Currently it is sitting outside on the patio. How should I care for it this winter?

Janet

2 years ago at 3:33 AM

Thank you for your advise. It is greatly appreciated

Eveline Kasner

2 years ago at 8:14 AM

Do I cut all my flowers off now and do I cut my branches back?

Becky Craig

2 years ago at 7:39 AM

I have a cotton candy hydrangea. It has only grown about 1 1/2 feet tall. I've ahd it for 4 years. this year it didn't bloom. It has a lot of wood from previous years that nothing grows on. It's totally in the shade. I live in Kansas City area. Do I need to cut the wood before winter or wait till spring? Or how close to the ground do I cut it?

Jen

2 years ago at 11:52 AM

I have 3 Bobo hydrangeas I planted this spring after redoing my landscaping. I planted them in a rock bed in front of my house. How would I winterize them to make sure they come back next spring. It was a lot of work to redo that landscaping so anything to avoid extra junk to grow within the rocks would be best! Thank you for your response!!!

Linda Hutten

2 years ago at 12:20 AM

I have the everblooming Monrovia plant that is five years old last year beautiful bloomsthis year 2020 huge plant but only 1 flower I live in Buffalo Ny cold winters I believe zone7. To prepare for winter for the first time I plan to cut plant down put mulch and compost down. I have never cut the plant down hope that is ok

Glenn Eacker

2 years ago at 11:01 PM

Should I cut off the flower heads? I have both panicula and mophead types. They are growing under a pine tree, and have done really well, after being planted just last fall. I live about a mile from Lake Michigan on our west side. The big lake does moderate our winters compared to inland areas. Thanks!

Bonita

2 years ago at 3:10 AM

Thank you for the info! I will go to the store to get "compost". What kind of compost? Is "mushroom compost" ok?

DON EWERS

2 years ago at 9:35 PM

No mention about pruning?

Nate

2 years ago at 7:58 AM

Do you cut them back? Prune?

Peggy Cook

2 years ago at 8:37 AM

I was also interested in how to winterize for a hydrangea vine which I just purchased this summer. Should I also wrap it and use mulch after the ground freezes. We live in southwestern Michigan. I just looked up the tag and it says it is a Hydrangea anomala var. petiolaris with glossy green, heart shaped leaves on a woody deciduous vine with while lacecap flowers blooming in June/July. Exfoliating cinnamon brown older barkfor zone 4.

Stephanie Dareing

2 years ago at 11:20 PM

I put in several Annabelle Hydrangeas this year. Well the leaves began curling and no flowers. I learned it was from a worm that destroys the DNA. Should I destroy these plants and put something else there? I am so disappointed.

Sylvia Elise Bozzo

2 years ago at 7:34 AM

I am in a "cold" zone ... snow already, (8") but most has melted. This year I had very healthy looking plants (leaves), etc., but no blooms. Is my "ground" the problem? Did I prune incorrectly? (I cut fairly short last fall before the snow). Do I wait to cut in the springtime rather than now?

Jan Elsea

2 years ago at 4:00 AM

Can I cut back Oak Leaf plants as they have become to large for the area? Will the flowers come back in the Spring or will it take a couple of growing seasons for them to return? Thanks.

Alexa Johnson

2 years ago at 5:36 AM

Hi Jan, here's the skinny: Oakleaf hydrangeas bloom on the previous seasons growth. So, if you prune them right after bloom, you should get blooms the following year. However, if you need to cut them back really hard (more than a third of the growth), you might not get blooms the next year. But, you'll still be able to enjoy the lovely foliage and fall color while you wait for your blooms to return.

Mary L Simmons

2 years ago at 1:46 AM

Thank you for info

Pamela Coons

2 years ago at 1:51 AM

I have several variations of hydrangea in the ground and 2 in pots. What is the best way to keep the healthy over winter. I live In Virginia Beach where the weather changes a lot.

Heidi Mason

2 years ago at 5:05 AM

very helpful thank you

Rozella Smith

2 years ago at 6:30 AM

When do you cut them back?

Joan woods

2 years ago at 12:01 PM

I just received a hydrangea plant for Valentine’s. I needs know how to take care it in pot, it been in -3 up 10 degrees now it in 30’s. I need help.Joan

Megan McConnell

2 years ago at 1:54 PM

Wait until temperatures are above freezing before you move it outside. Keep in mind that not all hydrangeas are hardy in cold areas, so make sure it is hardy where you live if you were planning on planting it in the ground. A local garden center can give you more information about growing hydrangeas in your climate.

Barb

2 years ago at 7:10 PM

Where’s Kate? Her consistent and knowledgeable answers are truly missed! :-)

Megan McConnell

2 years ago at 9:40 AM

That's so sweet! I'll let her know you said that. Kate's not with Monrovia anymore, but you'll see a few posts from her soon; she's doing some freelance work for us. We've got a new blog writer coming in at the end of the month and she's awesome. You're going to love her! So keep an eye out for Emily.

Karen

2 years ago at 11:25 AM

Great info! Do you have any guidance on when and how to uncover? I am in zone 5b and it is warming up, I want to remove the leaves so they don't rot but am afraid of potential late season frosts.

Megan McConnell

2 years ago at 11:43 AM

My best advice is to check with a local garden center or other experts in your area. They are going to know what is best for your climate. Besides that, try googling the average last frost date in your area. That's a good time to uncover them, but still keep your eye on the weather forecast. If they predict a late frost, you can throw a cover back over them for the night.

Gay Fitzgerald

1 year ago at 7:12 AM

I planted my hydrangea in cement Victorian urns. They are too heavy to move. I live in Eastern Pa. Outside of Harrisburg. I’m looking for the best way to cover them for the winter. I know they should be watered until freezing temps but I’m afraid the soil will freeze. Any help would be welcomed!

Emily

1 year ago at 9:00 AM

Hello, try a thick 1-3" layer of mulch to insulate the soil and covering the plant with burlap. Good luck!

Howard G Kacsh

1 year ago at 6:52 AM

this is a first time having these kind of plants. they look beautiful everywhere else but our home. We planted 6 Summer CrushEndless Bigleaf (3. 9 gal/14.9 L ) it reads fun/part sun and many of the flowers are turning black. most to all are fine, they had beautiful red color and the color is lost. bought Holly tone for color and plants. we get west sun in morning. will these plants come back next year? I've watered when needed and only bought that food for plants when I went into an excellent nursery. We love the plants but would appreciate your advice in this matter.. thank you Howard Kacsh

Emily

1 year ago at 11:38 AM

Hi Howard, we don't grow that variety, so don't have any specific advice for it. However, I would expect that it will return next year -- hopefully healthier! In the meantime, remove the spent flowers and double-check the amount of fertilizer and/or water it needs. Sometimes overwatering and overfertilizing can stress the plant. Good luck in the spring!

Monica the flower lady

1 year ago at 4:23 PM

Thank goodness for ur help I have 5 new hydrangeas zone 8 all mop head n want them to survive the winter two however are miniatures. I gave them fertilizer to winterize them last fall n they grew 5 times their size when originally purchased might have to give one away bc three r huge! So I will compost n mulch with nugget mulch this winter ty!!!

Roberta

1 year ago at 2:00 PM

I have a small Annabelle hydrangea (based on the photos above). She is in a small pot. I fed her and she has lots of new foliage. It is now September. I live in zone 7. Do I put her in the ground or do I bring her in for the winter? I have a garage that has no sun. I also have a back closed in porch that gets light in the winter but it could be cool out there in the winter. In really cold temperatures in the winter I run a heater in the porch at night only. I appreciate your advice. I have many lime light plants and so I do not want this new one to die. TY

Emily

1 year ago at 9:40 AM

Hello, you could do either! Fall is a great time for planting if you know of a great place to plant her. If you'd rather keep her in a pot, you could do that, too.

Robyn G Leckner

1 year ago at 11:29 AM

This article was very helpful for me! I live a little farther north in Minnesota and I have quite a few hydrangea's. I have mostly learned from the plant itself. Now I can ask them at Tonkadale Greenhouse. Thank you! R Leckner

June Curtis

1 year ago at 8:08 AM

My Big Daddy Hydrangea has been planted 2 yrs but doesn’t bloom. Last fall I put dead leaves to top & covered with a plastic garbage can. Still no blooms this year. What can I do?

Emily

1 year ago at 9:40 AM

Hello, I'm sorry you haven't been able to enjoy any blooms! It's hard to know exactly why it's not blooming, but often hydrangeas won't bloom if they've been either overfertilized or pruned at the wrong time (or both). Sometimes they don't bloom because of harsh winter weather or fluctuations in spring temperatures. There are a lot of variables to take into account. Avoid pruning your hydrangeas in late winter, spring, or early summer. Next season if you decide to prune them, prune in the fall after they are done blooming. Good luck!

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A Guide to Hydrangea Winter Care

Peg Aloi

Peg Aloi is a professional gardener covering plants in various contexts, from recipes to heirloom orchard fruits. Her area of interest is the folklore of plants and herbs. She's worked as a garden designer for public housing, individual homes, and businesses, and gives workshops on various gardening topics.

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Updated on 09/13/22

Reviewed by

Kathleen Miller

Reviewed by Kathleen Miller

Kathleen Miller is a highly-regarded Master Gardener and Horticulturist who shares her knowledge of sustainable living, organic gardening, farming, and landscape design. She founded Gaia's Farm and Gardens, a working sustainable permaculture farm, and writes for Gaia Grows, a local newspaper column. She has over 30 years of experience in gardening and sustainable farming.

Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board

Hydrangeas are a well-loved and popular garden shrub that bring reliable beauty with their lush blooms. There are five main types of hydrangea:

Macrophylla or big leaf (including mophead and lacecap hydrangeas, and blue or pink-flowered varieties like Nikko Blue)
Panicle/paniculata (including white-flowered varieties that change to green and rose tones)
Smoothleaf hydrangeas (like Limelight)
Oakleaf hydrangeas
Climbing hydrangeas.

These all have varying degrees of winter hardiness, so it's crucial to know their growing zone limits and their potential vulnerability in winter weather.

Paniculata and smoothleaf hydrangeas are generally very cold hardy, as are oakleaf hydrangeas and climbing hydrangeas, so these varieties don't usually need additional winter protection.

Macrophylla hydrangeas, however, are a different story. An occasional problem with macrophylla hydrangeas is their failure to flower in summer. There's a common misconception that this problem can be addressed by simply using fertilizer. But, actually, the more likely reason for this is a failure of the flower buds, which begin forming in late summer, to survive cold winter temperatures. Blue-flowering macrophylla hydrangeas, for example, are sometimes only winter hardy to Zone 6, meaning a cold winter can potentially kill the buds.

Consider your Hydrangea Location

Hydrangeas growing in pots can be brought indoors for the winter, either inside your home or in a garage to prevent freezing temperatures from shocking them. Bring hydrangeas inside before the first frost of fall. Water the plants sparingly to prevent the dormant plant's roots from sitting in water, adding just enough to moisten the soil after it dries out.

For hydrangeas planted in the ground, the first consideration for winter care is to figure out if the shrub is planted in an appropriate location. If your macrophylla hydrangea has a hardiness zone classification where the lowest zone is even slightly higher than the one you live in, your hydrangea will very likely fail to form spring buds. Even if the zone is the same, if your shrub is too exposed to winter weather, this might also damage the buds.

Many mophead and other macrophylla hydrangeas are generally hardy in USDA Zones 6 to 9. Recent cultivars such as the "Endless Summer" varieties are meant to be hardy in Zones 5 to 8 (although the "Endless Summer Bloomstruck" variety is hardy to Zone 4). The "Cityline" hydrangeas are mostly hardy to Zone 5.

To be on the safe side, if you live in a cold zone with a typical Northeast winter, your hydrangea should be hardy to at least Zone 5. Planting your hydrangea near a structure that holds some heat (like a brick building or foundation) and in a spot that gets bright sunlight and shelter from the wind in winter will help.

If your macrophylla hydrangea only blooms occasionally in summer, or sometimes skips a year of blooming, moving it to a more protected site may increase the chances it will bloom. Mulching the base will help to some extent as well, but the main area to be protected is the budding branches.

Some macrophylla hydrangeas, such as this "Bloomstruck" hydrangea, are hardy to USDA Zone 5 Jennifer Martin-Atkins / Flickr / CC BY 2.0

Methods of Winter Protection

There are a few steps you can take to protect your mophead and lacecap hydrangeas in winter. One fairly common method is to create a simple structure that will help insulate your plant. This structure needs to allow air to circulate.

Placing garden stakes in a circle around the shrub and wrapping with burlap, chicken wire or an open-weave natural fiber fabric are all effective. Inside this makeshift structure, you can layer some lightweight insulation material such as pine straw or oak leaves. This will create a protective "zone" of warmer air and wind protection.

Keep this structure in place all winter and remove as temperatures begin to warm in spring. As wind or snow cause the insulation material to settle, thereby exposing the tips of budding branches, you'll want to add more material to replace it. Gather enough pine straw (long dried pine needles) and large oak leaves in autumn and keep in a paper lawn bag, sheltered from rain, to use later. Some gardeners find cutting a piece of styrofoam or cardboard to place over the top of the structure will prevent further damage to buds from winter weather.

Another method for protecting hydrangeas is to wrap them loosely in foam (such as egg-crate foam) or insulation material (such as the foil insulation used to mail climate-controlled packages).

Wrap the entire shrub, taking care not to break any branches, and secure gently but firmly with twine, clips and/or duct tape. Some creative gardeners make these wrapped shrubs look like big wrapped gifts, with a ribbon tied up in bows, coinciding with the winter holidays.

There are commercially-made structures you can purchase from your garden store for hydrangea protection as well, but a creative gardener can often make do with found materials and objects already in the garden shed.

Winter Water and Food for Your Hydrangea

Hydrangeas, as the name suggests, need hydration to thrive. Keeping them well watered before the ground freezes in winter helps the roots and shrub stay stronger for the season. Drying winter winds can also sap moisture from shrubs.

Feeding your hydrangea's surrounding soil with nutrients will also help it stay healthy during the winter. Soil that has used up too many nutrients can become "thin" and will make plants more vulnerable to winter damage.

A top-dressing of compost or composted manure makes a perfect meal for your hydrangea to digest over the long winter season. A mix of used coffee grounds and wood ash is also fine. These additions add acidity and alkalinity to the soil, respectively, and adding both together helps balance the soil pH levels, as well as feeds the soil with organic nutrients.

An added layer of lightweight natural mulch (such as pine bark mulch, oak leaves, hay, or pine straw) will help keep moisture levels consistent. Ideally, an early blanket of snow helps with this too, but these days we can't always rely on "normal" weather patterns.

Add six to eight inches of mulch over the compost layer, but only after the ground freezes. Mulching before a hard frost might attract rodents to the base of the plant, or fool the plant into thinking it's warmer than it is. Waiting until after hard frost will mean the plant has gone further into its dormant winter state, and the added protection will be like a winter blanket.

In spring, gently clear away the mulch when the danger of hard frost has passed.

How to properly cover a hydrangea for the winter? Photo - Botanichka

Hydrangeas are not accidentally called shrubs indispensable for landscape design. Modern and romantic, with dense and large inflorescences, they are a true decoration of shady places and practically do not know competitors. But no matter how beautiful hydrangeas are, growing them is not so easy. To achieve colorful flowering of hydrangeas is possible only with careful care. Due to insufficient frost resistance, they need shelter for the winter, which cannot be called simple. However, the sight of magnificent caps of hydrangea inflorescences is worth all the effort.

Contents:

Preparing hydrangeas for wintering
Hydrangea's need for shelter
Hydrangea shelter features
Rules for Unwrapping Hydrangeas

Preparation of hydrangeas for wintering

Hydrangeas begin to prepare for winter from September. True, they do not need complex care or special events at all, and such preparation will not take much effort. You just need to remember to stop some procedures in time and carry out others:

Hydrangeas are pruned only in early spring, but this does not mean that the plants do not need attention in anticipation of the coldest season. It is better to carry out sanitary cleaning for hydrangeas - remove dry or damaged shoots by treating the sections with garden pitch or a special protective compound.
Collect all dry leaves under the bushes, destroying them immediately. At the large-leaved hydrangea, in early September, it is necessary to remove all the leaves from the lower half of the bush. Thus, lignification of shoots is stimulated and their frost resistance increases. Before the arrival of frost, all leaves on hydrangeas are removed, leaving only the apical ones to protect the flower buds.
Pruning inflorescences before winter is not an easy question. Dry caps of hydrangeas decorate the garden, look great under the snow and are surprisingly touching even when dry. Therefore, if you have no other reason to cut and if the hydrangeas are not completely covered for the winter (that is, they do not belong to the large-leaved and Sargent variety, the bushes are older than 2 years), then do not remove the inflorescences before winter, but leave them to decorate the winter garden. In large-leaved hydrangea, all inflorescences are removed before the onset of frost.
From the middle of summer, only phosphate-potassium top dressing is carried out for hydrangeas.
From mid-September, watering is stopped for all hydrangeas; water-charging watering before wintering is not carried out for these shrubs. If possible, large-leaved hydrangeas are protected from excessive moisture by installing a frame with a film over the bushes, which will prevent water from falling under the bushes during rains.

Hydrangea need for shelter

Of the hydrangea species that are suitable for growing in the middle zone, only two plants need shelter - Hydrangea macrophylla ( Hydrangea macrophylla , or garden hydrangea) and Hydrangea Sargent ( Hydrangea sargentiana ). But in fact, Arborescens Hydrangea ( Hydrangea arborescens ) will also need some protection for the winter.

Winter hardiness of hydrangeas changes with age. Whatever species it is, in the first two years after planting, the bushes need to be additionally protected for the winter. Older bushes, with the exception of the two above species, do not even need hilling and winter well.

Features of Hydrangea Shelter

Unlike other garden shrubs that require protection for the winter with beautiful flowering, hydrangeas are not afraid of damping out. These are heat-loving plants, in the shelter of which you can use almost any materials, not even conducive to breathing and increasing humidity. So, hydrangeas hibernate even under a layer of foliage that gets wet under polyethylene. And such non-capriciousness greatly simplifies the process of sheltering.

In hydrangeas, it is necessary to protect, first of all, flower buds (for example, for large-leaved hydrangea, the main task is to preserve the tops of the shoots). Such a task is performed only by bending the branches to the ground. But there is no need to be afraid of this: hydrangeas, despite their massiveness, are quite flexible and tolerate such an inclination very well.

Finding the right time to cover hydrangeas is easy. It is best not to wait until frost and cover during October, immediately after the first night frosts or on the eve of the start of stable temperature drops below 0. Hydrangeas, unlike many other shrubs, can be covered not in stages, but at a time, but ventilation holes nevertheless it is necessary to leave up to serious frostbites. It is better to air hydrangeas during winter thaws.

Shelter for young hydrangeas

Hydrangeas planted this year for the winter must be protected, and if possible, cover the plants for the first two years. True, we are not talking about complex shelter methods: young hydrangeas are content with the most modest measures to compensate for temperature changes and the possible lack of snow.

To prepare the plant for winter in the first years of cultivation, it is enough:

Cover the base of the bushes with dry soil.
Mulch the tree trunk with a thick layer of dry leaves.

Hydrangea Arborescens Shelter

This type of hydrangea recovers well after freezing and grows back fairly quickly. But it blooms better with preventive shelter. Hilling is the first and mandatory stage. Large bushes of the plant do not bend over, but are tied to a reliable peg, warming around with spruce branches.

Sargent Hydrangea Shelter

This type of hydrangea will need almost the same shelter as for young bushes. But unlike ordinary hydrangeas, Sargent's crown is necessarily wrapped.

To prepare the plant for winter:

Mulch the soil around the trunk with dry leaves.
Cover the base of the bush with dry soil.
Place a cardboard box over the bush or wrap the crown with paper, non-woven materials.

Shelter for large-leaved hydrangea

This is the most difficult type of hydrangea to prepare for winter, which must be protected not only from winter weather surprises, but also from spring frosts, sharp temperature fluctuations with the arrival of heat. The shelter of this hydrangea requires not only the timely start of preparation, but also the mandatory binding of shoots.

To protect large-leaved hydrangea for the winter:

After removing the inflorescences and leaves, gather the shoots of the bush into a bunch and carefully bend them to the ground. They are usually laid on boards or boards to avoid contact with the soil. The branches are fixed with twine or in any other convenient way.
A bush laid on the ground is completely covered with dry leaves, sawdust, earth. You can first lay a wooden shield on the hydrangea or stretch a layer of non-woven materials, and only then fall asleep. This way you will create several layers of shelter with air gaps and protect the plant from any unpleasant surprises of unstable weather. Yes, and the shrub "directly" will not come into contact with the insulation, the hydrangea will not get wet, will not get dirty, the risk of the spread of diseases and pests will decrease.
Cover the top of the hydrangeas with plastic wrap, securely fixing it around the edges. Ventilation holes are left in the shelter for ventilation, which are closed only in severe frosts.
In snowless winters, spruce branches or branches are laid on the film, if there is snow, it is added additionally.

There are other covering strategies for this type of hydrangea:

Covering with roofing material. After binding, the plant is not bent down, but a roofing material is wrapped around it, creating a kind of cylinder around the crown. The roofing material is pulled loosely, the bush is not squeezed, leaving about 10 cm from the bush to the walls and measuring so that the roofing material rises half a meter above the hydrangea. There is no need to create several layers: just wrap the edges and fix with twine in several places. Dry leaves fall asleep inside the cylinder, and with the advent of severe frosts, the top is covered with a film or non-woven material.
Installed around a frame made of strong posts with several layers of non-woven materials stretched and covered with dry leaves in the same way. For low bushes, you can “dress” a box or basket on top.
Shelter with spruce branches: bushes are spudded, spruce branches are laid under them, and hydrangea branches are already bent down on it. The spruce branches are again laid on the shrub, and the final layer is made of a film or non-woven material, securely fastening.

Hydrangea shelter for the winter. © Rachel the Gardener Hydrangea shelter for the winter. © Rachel the Gardener Hydrangea shelter for the winter. © Rachel the Gardener

Rules for unraveling hydrangeas

Like other shrubs that need more serious shelter for the winter, hydrangeas must be opened gradually, layer by layer. The process of slow deprotection is especially important for hydrangea grandiflora. They begin to remove the shelter with the arrival of the first heat, removing the film or non-woven material for a day and returning it back in case of recurrent frostbite. The leaves with which the plants fell asleep must be dried already in the middle of spring. The leaves themselves are removed from the bushes only when the buds start growing on the hydrangeas. Hilled land is removed last. After removing the earth, the shrub is unleashed immediately, but left for several days before inspection and pruning.

How to cover a hydrangea for the winter and is it necessary to do it at all?

In order to keep this ornamental shrub safe and sound during the cold season, one cannot do without sheltering hydrangeas for the winter. In addition, even before the onset of cold weather, you need to correctly prepare the plant for wintering.

It is noteworthy that the hydrangea is not afraid of decay. Therefore, preparations for winter can be done in advance, even when it is still not very cold, and practically any covering materials can be used for this, including those that do not allow air to pass through. However, this does not mean that plants do not need to be ventilated. Small holes in the shelter are left before the onset of severe frosts and during thaws.

Whether it is necessary to cover the garden hydrangea for the winter

It depends on the type and variety of shrubs. Be sure to carefully cover the hydrangeas that bloom on last year's shoots, as flower buds are laid at the top of the shoot. And the first autumn frosts can damage them. Then next season flowering will not come.

When cold weather sets in, it is important to protect the hydrangea flower buds located at the top of the shoot

Among the hydrangeas grown in the middle lane, only two species need mandatory shelter - large-leaved hydrangea, or garden hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), and Sargent hydrangea (Hydrangea sargentiana) . But reality shows that in regions with an unstable climate, protection for the winter is also necessary, for example, tree hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens). In addition, in the first two years after planting, any kind of hydrangea in winter must be additionally protected from frost.

Large-leaved hydrangeas such as Endless Summer, Forever and Ever, You and Me can bloom on the shoots of both the past and the current year. But in order to achieve abundant flowering, the bush must be prepared for winter more carefully.

If it suits you that your hydrangea will bloom only once in late summer - early autumn, its winter shelter can be simplified. In late autumn, when night frosts become daily, cut the bush so that 3-5 buds remain on each shoot, and cover it with dry foliage or spruce branches.

Hydrangea care in autumn

Hydrangea is covered in autumn (more often in the first half, the exact time depends on weather conditions). However, 3-4 weeks before the onset of the first autumn frosts, the lower leaves of the plant should be removed approximately to the middle of the bush. This is necessary in order for the shoots to become woody. But the inflorescences should not be removed (they are removed only in the spring): they will protect the apical flower bud from the cold. In the second half of September - October, carefully cover the hydrangea bush with a high-density spunbond (at least 60 g / sq.m).

Cut off the bottom leaves before covering the hydrangea.

If your area experiences severe winters, it is best to protect the plant with a double layer of non-woven fabric. Under such a shelter, the flower buds of garden hydrangeas are not afraid of the first night frosts.

Shelter for winter garden hydrangea

Shortly before the constant sub-zero temperature sets in at night, remove the spunbond, remove all leaves from the bush, leaving only the inflorescences. Then tie the bush tightly, being careful not to damage the shoots, and wrap it again with spunbond.

It is not necessary to cut the hydrangea inflorescences for the winter

Spread spruce branches on the ground, bend the hydrangea to it and fix it well. Cover the bush with dry leaves, and put polyethylene on top of them. Just be sure to fix it so that it does not blow away in the winter winds. Polyethylene is needed so that during rains and thaws water does not leak to the bushes. In snowless winters, it is recommended to put spruce branches or branches on the film.

How to cover a young hydrangea for the winter

Large-leaved and Sargent hydrangeas are covered in the manner described above, and it is enough to protect the tree-like hydrangea from the cold by hilling and mulching. To do this, first spud the base of the bushes with dry peat, then mulch the near-stem circle with a thick layer of dry leaves, and fix them with polyethylene on top. If the bush is already quite large, tie it to a firmly installed peg and insulate it with spruce branches.

How to cover the paniculate hydrangea for the winter

Paniculata hydrangea inflorescences resemble a pyramid in shape

Paniculata hydrangea is considered the most cold-resistant species. It withstands temperatures as low as -40°C. Therefore, for the winter, it is enough to mulch the near-stem circle of the bush to protect the root system. Even if the shoots freeze, they will quickly recover in the spring.

How to care for covered hydrangeas in spring?

In spring, the hydrangea is "undressed" gradually. After the snow melts, it is necessary to remove the plastic film so that condensation does not form under it. Lapnik and foliage are best left for now. If return frosts come, return the film to its original place at night.

When it gets a little warmer, pick up a hydrangea bush and rake the leaves into a circle around the trunk.

Harvest spruce branches and foliage in several stages in the spring

When the danger of spring frost has passed and the buds swell on the plant, the spunbond must be removed. At the same time, it is advisable to feed the hydrangea with complex fertilizer. The soil with which you planted the plant in the fall should be removed last.