Can you propagate a rose

Grow Roses from Cuttings: 2 Best Ways to Propagate!

How to grow roses from cuttings easily! Compare the BEST & worst ways to propagate in water or soil, using potatoes, & root by air layering.

Maybe it’s a beautiful rose plant in the garden that you want to multiply, or a Valentines rose bouquet that you want to grow into more roses, it’s easy to want more colorful and gorgeous rose bushes and vines in our homes and gardens.

Many plant lovers have tried to grow roses from cuttings. There are many rose propagation methods such as rooting in soil or water, air layering, and some even try to grow rose cuttings in potatoes! Some of these methods are great, some actually don’t work very well.

Today we are going to compare which ways are the best and easiest to propagate roses from either a plant, cut flowers or even a bouquet. Wouldn’t it be nice to have more roses in our gardens or as gifts to share with friends? 🙂

Can you propagate patented roses?

* Some resources in article are affiliate links. Full disclosure here .

A plant patent lasts for 20 years, after which the plant is allowed to be propagated.

If the roses are patented within the last 20 years, it is illegal to propagate the rose without the consent of the patent holder. ( Source )

However, there are endless varieties of roses you CAN propagate. For example, the famous “New Dawn” and “Charlotte Armstrong” roses were patented over 50 years ago, and old-fashioned heirloom roses often root easier than modern hybrids.

Now you know which roses not to propagate, let’s look at the best and easiest methods to root rose cuttings! ( Source )

Best time to grow roses from cuttings

The best time to grow roses from cuttings is from spring through summer, when flexible new stems (current year’s growth) are actively growing. They are called softwood cuttings, who are the fastest and easiest to root when you select healthy stems.

Look at all the beautiful rooted rose cuttings by Vuon & Nha on YouTube! Video tutorial below:

The next best are semi-hardwood cuttings, taken in late summer and early fall, when new stems have partially matured.

Hardwood cuttings are most difficult type of cutting to root. They are taken in late fall or early winter, when the rose stems have matured and entered dormancy.

Grow roses from cuttings by air layering

Air layering is a fascinating propagation method being used for thousands of years! Nowadays there are easy products like these reusable air layering pods you can get, or make your own with simple materials such as small water bottles or plastic bags.

Air layering is the BEST way to propagate roses (and many woody plants) if the rose bush or vine that you want to multiply is already growing in your garden or in a friend’s garden. You don’t even have to use rooting powder with this method.

The best time for air layering roses is in late spring or summer when the weather is warm and the rose bushes are actively growing. ( Air layering rose video tutorial below. )

Select a stem that is about the thickness of a pencil and longer than a foot. Take a clean sharp knife, find a spot at about 1 foot for the top tip of the stem, remove leaves and thorns around this area, peel off about a 1 inch section of the green bark tissue to get to white wood.

You can also make a 2” long cut along the middle of the stem, and insert a little piece of plastic straw to prop the cut open, like shown in the above video tutorial by Vuon & Nha.

Don’t cut too deeply into the stem or it could break.

Dust the cut area with rooting hormone. You can skip this, but rooting hormone does help speeding up the process.

Next, make a 3” to 4” size pouch using either plastic wrap or a small plastic bottle filled with moist peat moss, coir, or potting soil. Coco coir is a great medium to root rose cuttings. It is sustainable and clean, which is important for propagation.

The cut area should be completely covered with enough room for roots to develop. Video tutorial below by Vuon & Nha.

Secure top and bottom with strings or twist-tie (Not too tight so the plant can grow and expand). You can also use these reusable air layering pods.

Because the stem is still attached to the mother plant, it is receiving water and nutrients as the new roots are growing from the cut area. This greatly increases the propagation success rate to nearly 100%!

Most rose plants show their white roots in 3 – 5 weeks. When you see good root system develops with lots of healthy roots, clip the stem off below the layer.

Gently remove ties and covers. Carefully plant your new rose plants and keep them well watered and protected from direct sunlight for a couple of weeks so it can adapt.

Grow roses from cuttings in soil or medium

Fill some clean pots or containers rooting mix and water well so it’s moist and fully hydrated. You can use clean potting soil or a soil-less mix such as clean sand, peat moss, perlite, or Coco coir. ( Photo by Hedgerow Rose)

IMPORTANT: The containers should have drainage holes and never sit in water for too long. ( Photo by Grownups )

Coco coir is a great medium to root rose cuttings. It is sustainable and clean, which is important for propagation.

Take rose cuttings only from healthy plants that are well watered. Choose fresh healthy rose stems newly grown from the woody base, with at least 3-5 leaf nodes on the stem. Cut near the base at a 45-degree angle. Put cut stems in water immediately.

Video tutorial by Vuon & Nha on YouTube. How to propagate rose cuttings in coco coir!

Cut longer stem into 6 inch to 8 inch long, and make sure each cutting have at least 3 nodes – where leaf meets stem. Remove all flower buds and leaves except for one set of leaves at the top of each cutting.

Dip the cutting’s bottom half in the rooting hormone powder or gel. Use a pencil to make a planting hole 3 to 4 inches deep in your rooting mix. Plant the rose cutting into the hole so at least two nodes are covered.

Keep the cuttings in a warm and bright place away from direct sun. Water when the rooting mix start to feel dry on the top inch. Pamela at Flower Patch farm used recycled coffee cups (above) and large jars (below ) as humidity tent. Such great ideas!

You can also use a propped- up plastic bag or a mini greenhouse. Here are 45 best DIY greenhouses you can make from tiny to big!

If you live in a warm humid climate with a shaded outdoor area, you can skip the humidity cover. ( Photo below by Hartwood Roses )

Most softwood rose cuttings will root within 2 to 6 weeks. If you see healthy leaves growing, and feel some resistance when you very gently tug on the cuttings (don’t do this too soon!) , it’s likely they have rooted.

Here’s a YouTube tutorial by Mike on how to use a humidity cover made from plastic bottles.

Now you can remove the humidity tent and let them grow for a couple more weeks before transplanting the cuttings. Below is another propagation example by Lilisim.

Can you root rose cuttings in water?

Rose cuttings do not propagate well in just water. Some cuttings will root, but the success rate is usually about 20%, while you can get 80% success by propagating rose cuttings in soil medium or by layering.

The rose cuttings tend to take a long time to root in water, and is prone to rotting.

However, some favorite plants can root very easily in water! Here are a couple of tutorials on how to propagate Fiddle Leaf Fig or Hydrangea cuttings in soil or water with almost 100% success!

Hydrangeas are some of the easiest flowers to propagate! Tutorial here!

Can you grow rose cuttings using potatoes?

There are many viral images of rose cuttings in potatoes, but I have not seen any scientific or real life evidence of potatoes or dipping in honey making rose cuttings grow more quickly or successfully.

On the contrary, there are many reports of failures from gardeners who actually tried to grow rose cuttings in potatoes.

The potatoes may grow roots, which will not magically become rose roots. The rose cuttings need a medium that holds moisture and air, which isn’t really what a potato does.

That’s it! Use the first 2 methods, and happy gardening! 🙂

How to Propagate Roses From Stem Cuttings

Marie Iannotti

Marie Iannotti is a life-long gardener and a veteran Master Gardener with nearly three decades of experience. She's also an author of three gardening books, a plant photographer, public speaker, and a former Cornell Cooperative Extension Horticulture Educator. Marie's garden writing has been featured in newspapers and magazines nationwide and she has been interviewed for Martha Stewart Radio, National Public Radio, and numerous articles.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

Updated on 10/18/22

Reviewed by

Julie Thompson-Adolf

Reviewed by Julie Thompson-Adolf

Julie Thompson-Adolf is a Master Gardener and author. She has 30+ years of experience with year-round organic gardening; seed starting and saving; growing heirloom plants, perennials, and annuals; and sustainable and urban farming.

Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board

The Spruce / Claire Cohen

In This Article

When to Propagate
Before Getting Started
FAQ

Project Overview

Propagating herbaceous plants is often done by rooting green stem cuttings, but the process can also be successful with woody-stemmed plants, including some roses. Rooting stem cuttings of roses and other woody plants works best with so-called "wild" or "native" pure species, rather than hybrid shrubs. That's because many hybrids are created through a grafting process in which branches from showy but delicate species are melded onto rootstock from a sturdier species.

The result of grafting can be a spectacular plant with exceptional root hardiness. But if you propagate a new plant from a branch clipping, it will lack the parent plant's root hardiness. Thus, it's best to use stem clippings only to propagate non-grafted roses, which include many so-called shrub roses.

The stem clipping method is a bit tricky with woody plants, and you should expect that several attempts will end in failure. Take extra cuttings to ensure you have at least a few viable prospects. Still, if you take your cuttings from a healthy rose plant and follow the proper steps to root them, your odds of developing new plants will be high.

What Is a Shrub Rose?

The term "shrub rose" is defined by the American Rose Society (ARS) as “a class of hardy, easy-care plants that encompass bushy roses that do not fit in any other category of rose bush.” Many people use the term to refer to any type of non-hybrid rose, but there are several types of hybrid roses that do fit into the ARS's definition of shrub roses, including Moyesi hybrids, hybrid musk roses, Kordesii roses, English roses, and Knock Out roses. These join the many native rose species to form the category of shrub roses. However, any of these hybrid roses described as an "own-root" rose rather than a grafted rose may lend itself to successful propagation from stem cuttings.

When to Propagate a Rose by Stem Cuttings

Rooting a stem cutting can be done almost any time, but cuttings taken from new growth that has recently flowered (rather than old, hardened wood) are more likely to root successfully. Spring or fall is the best time to take softwood stem cuttings. Select them in the early morning hours when the plant is well hydrated. Moreover, avoid taking cuttings when your plant is heavily blooming. At this time, the plant is putting most of its energy into flower production rather than root development, so cuttings won't readily root.

Before Getting Started

Sharp pruners are necessary when taking rose cuttings. Dull tools can crush the rose's woody stems instead of forming a clean slice, which can make the cutting susceptible to fungal rot. Furthermore, make sure to clean your pruners before and after each cutting to avoid transmitting any diseases.

Be patient when growing roses from cuttings. It can take several years for your new rose to produce flowers.

Click Play to Learn How to Grow Roses From Cuttings

Equipment / Tools

Pruning shears

Materials

Mature rose plant for cuttings
Powdered rooting hormone
Plant pot
Sand and vermiculite or a rose potting mixture
Plastic bag or plastic wrap

The Spruce / Michela Buttignol

Take Cuttings

Start by taking a 12-inch segment of a new stem that has recently bloomed, cutting it from the plant at a 45-degree angle. The stem should be about the width of a pencil. The best cuttings for rooting usually come from the sides of the bush, rather than the center.

Remove any flowers or flower buds along the cut stem. Flowers or buds on the cut branch will consume energy, and you want to encourage the stem to refocus its survival energy on sending out new roots. If you're taking multiple cuttings, place them in a container of water to keep them hydrated until you're ready to propagate them.

The Spruce / Claire Cohen
Remove Most Leaves

Remove all but the top two sets of leaves on the stem. Then, cut off the remaining portion of the stem just above this top set of leaves. Removing the excess leaves will help the cutting divert its energy to root production.
Prepare the Stem for Rooting

Using sharp pruning shears, make a fresh cut on the bottom of the stem just below a stem node (a bump where new growth typically forms). Then, slice into the bottom of the stem about a 1/4 inch up, splitting the stem into open quarters.

Apply Rooting Hormone

Although not absolutely necessary, applying a rooting hormone can help spur your rose plant into developing new roots. Rooting hormones can be found in powder, liquid, and gel form—you'll have the best success with the powder version when working with roses. To apply, slightly moisten the split end of the rose cutting, and then dip it into the powdered rooting hormone. Shake off any excess.
Plant the Cutting

Fill a small pot with at least 6 inches of a potting mix formulated especially for roses. Poke a hole in the potting medium, and then insert the stem sliced-side down, taking care not to rub off the rooting hormone. Gently pack the soil around the stem, and water well.

The Spruce / Claire Cohen
Cover the Cutting

Loosely cover the cutting, pot and all, with a plastic bag or plastic wrap to help retain soil moisture. Be sure not to let the plastic touch any remaining leaves on the stem, which can cause them to remain wet and susceptible to fungal disease. Putting a tall stake into the pot can help hold the plastic away from the leaves. The bag also needs to be slightly vented, so condensation can escape—if you seal the bag too tightly, the stem can rot. Place the cutting under grow lights or near a bright window.
Monitor the Cutting

Keep the soil moist until roots begin to form, which usually takes about two weeks. Check for roots by gently tugging on the stem—if there's resistance, roots are probably present.

Your cutting can be transplanted into a pot or the ground as soon as the roots are firmly established or when new leaf sprouts begin to appear along the stem. Make sure to harden off the new rose—i.e., gradually expose it to outdoor conditions—before planting outside.

The Spruce / Claire Cohen

How to Prepare for Rose Bloom Season

Vegetative propagation of roses

Propagation of roses

Roses can be propagated vegetatively and by seed.

The main method of propagation is the grafting of cultivars of roses onto a rootstock specially grown for this purpose. Roses are vegetatively propagated by cuttings, layering, offspring, dividing bushes and grafting. Seed propagation is used in the cultivation of wild-growing roses, which well pass on their main decorative qualities to offspring, and rootstocks, as well as in breeding work when breeding new varieties of roses.

Vegetative propagation of roses

Rose grafting

The most common method of grafting roses is by budding, i.e. grafting roses with an eye (one kidney).

Rootstock cultivation . The quality of the grafted rose largely depends on the rootstock - rose hips. You can graft on almost any wild species, but the same variety of roses develops differently on different rootstocks. In our country, the canina rose is most widely used as a rootstock. This rootstock has good winter hardiness, a powerful branched root system, sufficient resistance to pests and diseases, is fast growing and easy to propagate, has a smooth and even root collar without thorns, easily lagging bark, is durable and has good compatibility with most varieties of roses.

You can also use other wild rose hips as rootstock, for example rugosa rose, which gives abundant root shoots, has a good root collar, and lax rose ( R . Laxa ) - very winter-hardy and unpretentious.

Rootstock can be grown from rose hips, which are harvested during browning (late August - early September). Seeds are immediately cleaned of pulp, washed, mixed with moistened sand and stored at 3-5 9 until planting.0036 0 C. Try not to dry the seeds, because after that they fall into a deep dormancy. Seeds are sown in October before the soil freezes or at the end of April in fertile soil to a depth of 3-4 cm, 4-5 g per 1 linear meter of furrow. After sowing, the soil is mulched (with wet sawdust, humus).

When the seedlings have two true leaves, they are planted in a very loose fertile soil (the distance between the seedlings is 5 cm, between the rows - 10-15 cm), while pinching the root system. After planting, the seedlings are watered (including with a medium solution of potassium permanganate) and mulched to cover the root collar.

Seedlings are cared for during the season, with special attention paid to top dressing (weak mullein solution) and treatment for diseases. In autumn, annual seedlings are dug up and sorted. In unfavorable years, seedlings grow poorly and can be left for another year. Seedlings with a straight root neck, at least 4-5 mm thick and a well-branched root system are selected for planting for grafting next year. The remaining seedlings are grown for another year. Thus, 3-4 years pass from the moment of collecting seeds to obtaining a standard rosehip seedling.

In central Russia, summer budding is best done from July 15 to August 15. At this time, there is an intensive downward sap flow and the bark is well behind the wood. If the wild rose has grown strongly and this interferes with budding, then some of the branches can be cut out. For a better separation of the bark during budding, the stock is shed well in a week.

It is better to harvest cuttings immediately before budding, choosing matured shoots with formed buds (eyes). A mature shoot is one whose thorns are well separated. On cut shoots, leaves are removed, leaving petioles.

Budding is carried out in the root neck of the stock. The root collar is loosened, wiped with a cloth to a light tone of the bark, and a T-shaped incision is made on it with a sharp budding knife. Then a peephole is cut with a shield about 2 cm (peephole in the middle), with or without a small part of the wood. With the bone available on the budding knife, the bark is moved apart in a T-shaped incision and an eye is inserted there, holding it by the rest of the leaf petiole. The upper part of the shield, if necessary, is cut so that it fits more tightly into the cut. Then tied with plastic wrap or a special tape. The strapping should be done as tight as possible, leaving only the peephole unwound. The grafted wild rose is piled up with earth. If after 3-4 weeks the petiole of the leaf under the grafted bud withered and fell off, then the graft took root.

At the end of April, the plants are uprooted, cutting off the stock 0.5 cm above the grafted eye, remove the strapping and cover the cut with garden pitch, then lightly spud the plants again.

Propagation of standard roses . Roses can be formed not only in the form of bushes, but also in the form of low "trees", with a trunk of one or another height. Strong annual rosehip seedlings are planted in a well-fertilized area. By the autumn of the third, and sometimes even the fourth year, renewal shoots grow 1.5-2 m high with a trunk diameter of more than 1 cm. The appearance of such shoots is facilitated by the spring cutting of part of last year's renewal shoots. On each bush, one of the tallest and most direct shoots is chosen - the best of all is the one that appears in the spring and has time to become woody by the fall. He will become a standard stock. The rest of the shoots are cut at the very root neck. In autumn, the finished stock can be dug up, dug horizontally and covered with spruce branches for the winter. If the stem stock has been dug up, it is planted and grafted in the spring at the same time as spray roses, from mid-July to mid-August.

Budding is carried out on the trunk in the usual way, stepping back from the top 40-50 cm. One-year-old shoots cannot be budded too high, because their upper part contains a lot of moisture and the stock does not grow together with the scion. Two eyes are inserted into the T-shaped incision from opposite sides at a distance of 2-3 cm from one another. Double grafting contributes to the formation of a lush crown. More than two eyes should not be grafted, as the third kidney will not develop well. The survival rate of the stem stock is higher than that of the bush stock.

Green rose cuttings

The simplest and most accessible way of propagating roses is cuttings .

In the open field, the best time for cuttings occurs at the end of June and continues until the end of July.

As cuttings use one-year semi-lignified shoots, flowering or "blind" (without flowers). Young herbaceous, “fatty” (fleshy and unripe, often red) and strongly lignified shoots are not suitable. In cuttings, the lower cut is made obliquely under the kidney, at an angle of 45 ⁰, and the upper cut is straight, 0. 5-0.7 cm above the kidney. The size of the cutting is 5-8 cm, as a rule, with one internode. In smaller roses, two or three internodes are allowed. To reduce evaporation, the bottom sheet is removed, leaving the petiole and half of the top sheet.

For planting cuttings, you can use a different substrate: light soil mixture (turf: leaf: sand-2:2:1) with the addition of pure river sand on the top; a mixture of sand and peat (1: 1), perlite, etc. Before planting, the substrate is moistened. The lower kidney of the cutting is deepened into the upper layer of the substrate obliquely at an angle of 45 ⁰ . Planting depth (deepening of the lower kidney) - 1.5-2 cm. The earth around the handle is compacted. After planting, it is sprayed with water and covered with a film, shaded if necessary. In case of planting several cuttings, the distance between them is 3-5 cm.

The optimum conditions for rooting cuttings are air temperature 22-25 ⁰ C, humidity 80-90% and indirect sunlight. The first two weeks, humidity is maintained by frequent spraying. With the beginning of the appearance of young growth in the cuttings, the number of sprays is reduced and aired more often, accustoming the plants to dry air. Such rooted cuttings are left for the winter in the basement or in a room with low temperatures, and in the spring they are planted for growing.

Propagation of roses by dividing the bush,

suckers, cuttings

Propagation of roses by dividing the bush applies to own-rooted roses. They are used in the propagation of park roses. Each part of the divided bush should have a share of roots and one or more shoots.

Root offspring propagate roses that easily sprout as underground stems. From the adventitious buds of these stems, above-ground stems are formed. They depart from the main bush quite far in the form of straight shoots. The first time after emerging from the ground, the offspring does not have its own roots, and receives all the nutrition from the mother plant. In autumn or spring, root suckers are cut off along with part of the maternal root, shortening the aerial part by half.

Layers can propagate small-flowered climbing and some ground cover roses. To do this, strong annual shoots are laid out in grooves 15-20 cm deep. On the underside of the shoot, in several places (under the bud), shallow incisions are made in the bark, which stimulates the formation of roots, and covered with loose nutrient soil. Layers are laid as early as possible in the spring. Under favorable conditions, by the autumn of the same year, they have time to take root well. The next spring, the cuttings are dug up and planted for growing.

methods of cuttings in winter, spring, autumn with photos and videos

Rules for propagation of roses by cuttings

Cuttings are one of the main methods of rose propagation. There are two options - green and cuttings and lignified. The first case is used for summer propagation of garden roses. The second is for winter and spring. And he is the most popular. And in this way you can propagate roses from a bouquet, because in flowering shoots the lower part of the shoot is always lignified.

Cutting cuttings

Rooting cuttings can be cut from any part of the shoot, except for the top with a flower. Each cutting should have 2 nodes - this is the place where the leaves are attached to the stem and where the buds are. The thickness of the cutting should be at least 5 mm - too thin will not take root.

The bottom cut should be oblique - it is made just below the knot, stepping back about 5 mm. Why oblique? But because the callus (the tissue from which the roots then grow - a kind of white growth) is best formed around the cut. And the larger its area, the larger the callus. And one more thing: it is very important to make cuts with a sharp knife - if the tissues of the shoot are wrinkled, it will most likely rot and will not give roots.

Here the upper cut must be straight. They do it by stepping back from the node the same 5 mm. Why direct? Moisture escapes through the wound, and besides, it is an open gate for infection. That is why the area of the upper cut should be minimal.

Preparing the cuttings

Remove the lower leaves from the cut cuttings. And the upper ones are shortened - rose leaves usually consist of 3 or 5 segments, and only 2 are needed. For reliability, it is useful to cover the upper cut with children's plasticine.

Soil for rooting cuttings

Rose cuttings give roots, but not as easily as, for example, currant twigs - just putting them in water is not enough. It is best to root them in the ground. And there are options.

River sand. It is light, loose and very well breathable, which is necessary for the formation of roots. But there is a problem - the sand dries up very quickly. Therefore, it will need to be watered frequently. Or add perlite to it, which retains moisture.

Soil mixtures. There are 2 classic versions:

river sand with peat in a ratio of 1:1;
river sand with sheet earth in the ratio 1:1.

The sand in this case is the baking powder. And peat or earth provide moisture capacity, that is, planted cuttings will have to be watered less often.

Rooting conditions for cuttings

Cuttings are buried in the substrate by about 1 cm. You need to make holes with a stick or pencil, insert the cuttings there and lightly compress the soil with your hands.

Then the cuttings should be well watered. And be sure to cover with either a jar or a plastic bag so that there is constantly high humidity around the planted cuttings. But! It is necessary (required!) Once a day to remove the jar (package) so that the cuttings are ventilated - otherwise they will become moldy and rot.

Another important point: the soil temperature should be about 21 °C, and the air temperature should be 2 - 3 °C lower (2). There is no place for cuttings on the windowsill - it is always cooler than necessary, and cold soil, combined with high humidity, always leads to an outbreak of fungal diseases.

Photo: pixabay.com

And, of course, cuttings need a lot of light. But not direct sunlight is the best - they will provoke increased evaporation of moisture from the leaves, as a result of which the cuttings can dry out.

Methods for cutting roses

Roses can be propagated by cuttings at almost any time of the year. And there are some interesting methods that allow you to propagate roses more efficiently.

Cuttings of roses from a bouquet

The life of bouquets given on March 8 is short-lived - in most cases they will last no more than a week. And so we want this beauty to be with us always ... But this is possible! For example, you can cut cuttings from roses from a bouquet, and then grow them in the garden.

Cuttings will take root only if the roses in the bouquet were fresh. It is useless to root dried shoots. But how to understand how fresh a flower is?

- The first thing you need to pay attention to is the sepals, small green “leaves” at the very base of the flower, advises agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova. - If they are raised up, literally "hug" the bud, then the flower is fresh. If they are lowered down, then the rose has been cut long ago.

The second indicator of freshness is the leaves.

– If you take a flower in your hands and the leaves begin to crumble, it means that the rose is stale, says Svetlana Mikhailova.

By the way, many buyers are guided by the degree of dissolution of the flower. They think that if the rose is still in bud, it means that it was cut recently. Nothing like this!

– Roses are stored in the refrigerator until they are sold, explains Svetlana Mikhailova. - They are even transported in refrigerators. Under such conditions, the bud will not open. Moreover, flowers are always stored and transported "dry", without water - they are simply packed in paper. And how much the rose spent in this form, no one knows.

It happens that without water and in the cold, roses spend a week or more. The buds will remain unopened, but the plant has already died. And so you bring home a bouquet, put it in water, hoping that now the flowers will bloom. But their heads just hang, never opening. They are dead. And it is pointless to cut such roses.

- This is often the case with Dutch roses, - says Svetlana Mikhailova, - because they are brought from afar. But now there are a lot of Russian greenhouse roses on the flower market. They are usually much fresher.

And that's the easiest way to cut them.

Cutting roses in winter

In winter, you can cut cuttings from purchased roses, for example, from the same bouquets. Or specially buy a flower you like in the store. In this case, the method of propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is used.

Cuttings of roses in spring

Experts do not advise radical pruning of roses in autumn, it is better to pin the shoots to the ground for the winter, and if you use this technology, then spring cuttings of roses are your option. After the winter shelter has been removed from the plants, they need to be cut off - cut out frozen branches and remove excess stems. So these very extra stems are excellent material for cuttings.

In this case, the standard method of propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is also used.

Cuttings of roses in summer

In summer, roses actively grow shoots, and at this time you can use the second method of propagation - green cuttings. They are cut from May to July, but it is better in the budding phase (3).

The stem to be taken from cuttings must be strong and fully green. The cuttings are cut about 10 cm long, but it is important that they have 2-3 buds. The top cut is made directly above the kidney. The lower one is oblique, just below the kidney. The lower leaves should be removed, leaving a couple of the top ones. And cut them so that out of 3 - 5 plates only two remain.

Before planting, the cuttings should be soaked in a Heteroauxin solution for 12 hours to stimulate root formation.

Prepared cuttings are planted in a shkolka - a secluded quiet place with fertile soil, deepening by 1.5 - 2 cm. Water well and cover with foil. Roses are photophilous plants, however, under the scorching rays of the sun, the cuttings begin to evaporate moisture too actively and dry out rather than give roots. Therefore, the shkolka should be done either under the light shade of trees, or the cuttings should be shaded with coniferous branches or burlap.

Planted cuttings should be watered frequently - the soil should be moist all the time. And in hot weather, it is useful to rinse the film with cold water.

Roots of green rose cuttings usually form after 3-4 weeks - new leaves speak for this. After that, the film must be gradually opened so that the plants get used to the open air - first for a couple of hours in the morning, then longer and longer. After 2 weeks, the film is removed completely.

In the future, young roses should be constantly watered, and carefully covered for the winter. In the spring they can be planted with a clod of earth in permanent places.

Potato rose cuttings

Both green and semi-woody cuttings can be rooted in this way. They are prepared in a standard way, but before planting they are stuck into potatoes, and only then, together with the tuber, they are planted in a school in the garden.

Why do they do it? And in order for the cuttings not to dry out, if it is not possible to water them often, this method is useful for weekend summer residents. Juicy potatoes. The moisture in it remains for a very long time, and even if the soil is dry, the cutting will not die.

Rose cuttings using the burrito method

This method of rooting cuttings is becoming more popular year by year. And it got its name from the Mexican analogue of shawarma - burrito. And you will understand why.

The point is this. The lower cut, as with traditional cuttings, is dusted with a root formation stimulator. Then several pieces of cuttings (usually 5-10 are recommended) are wrapped in 2-3 layers of newspaper or paper towels, moistened with water so that the paper is moist, but not wet, and then loosely (it is important that air penetrated inside) wrapped in polyethylene. It turns out a kind of bundle, similar to the same shawarma burrito. It is cleaned in a dark, cool place with a temperature of 14 - 18 ° C.

This is important! If the temperature is lower, the roots will not form. And if it is higher, the cuttings will either dry out (even constant moisture often does not save), or they will become moldy and begin to rot.

As a rule, the callus on the cuttings is formed after 3 weeks. If this does not happen, the cuttings are again wrapped in paper (if it has dried up, it must be moistened again) and the film and again sent to a dark, cool place.

When the callus is formed, the cuttings are planted one at a time in pots in light nutrient soil (traditional rooting mixtures are suitable) so that only 1 bud is above the soil surface, watered and covered with a jar or bag. And now they need to be placed in a bright (but not under direct sunlight) and warm place - the temperature should be 23 - 25 ° C.

The burrito method has been shown to give a higher percentage of rooting. And even varieties of roses that are difficult to propagate by cuttings, with this method, give roots much more readily.