Are eggshell and satin the same


Satin vs. Eggshell Paint - How to Choose Paint Finish

You’ve finally narrowed down your (seemingly endless) options and decided on the perfect paint color. While your decision-making muscles may feel exhausted at this point, there is still more to consider before you get to painting. The finish you choose for your paint has the potential to make or break a space—every finish has distinct differences that affect both the appearance and performance of the paint. It’s important to consider the specific look you are going for, the type of room you are painting, the architecture of the space, the room’s lighting, and more. A high-sheen finish can revive a dull room, while a low-sheen finish can mask any bumps or imperfections. Satin and eggshell are two popular finishes that work well in a variety of spaces, both with a low-to-medium luster. Though satin and eggshell paint are often grouped together, they have some distinct differences that are important to understand before making a final decision. To help you distinguish the differences between satin and eggshell, and decide which to choose, here's a comprehensive guide to perfecting your finishing touches.

SATIN PAINT FINISH

Kitchen cabinets painted with a satin finish add depth to the space and will hold up over time.

Alex Lukey

Satin finishes have a beautiful luster that is often described as appearing velvety. Satin is slightly less lustrous than semi-gloss, and can appear to be both flat and glossy, depending on the lighting in the room. Satin has a slightly higher sheen than eggshell, meaning that it is more reflective and more durable.


APPEARANCE: While satin finishes do have a degree of luster, they are more commonly described as a glow than a shine. Satin is a great choice if you're looking to create an understated depth in a space, or enliven the paint color you choose.


DURABILITY AND PERFORMANCE: Satin paint is very durable, making it great for high-traffic areas. Satin paint can easily be cleaned, though it can lose its sheen if scrubbed too roughly. It is advised that you clean it with a wipe and avoid abrasive scrubs.


WHEN TO USE SATIN PAINT: Because of its durability, many people choose a satin finish for bathrooms, kitchens, and kids rooms. Satin is also a popular choice for trim, especially if you want to emphasize the architecture of a space. If you're using a satin finish, make sure your walls are smooth and blemish-free, as the luster of it will emphasize any imperfections.

EGGSHELL PAINT FINISH

A black bedroom is painted with an eggshell finish, adding a slight luster that is emphasized in daylight.

Simon Upton

Eggshell paint finishes are low-luster, with a very subtle sheen that can be compared to the surface of an eggshell. While eggshell does not have too much luster, it will reflect and bounce light throughout a room, creating depth in a space without appearing overly shiny.


APPEARANCE: Eggshell paint provides a soft sheen that can be emphasized with brighter lighting or toned down with dimmer lighting. It is the lowest luster option before flat or matte finishes.


DURABILITY AND PERFORMANCE: Because eggshell is less lustrous than satin, it is also slightly less durable. That being said, it will still hold up better than flat or matte finishes would. Eggshell paint is a great option for walls in medium- to low-traffic areas, and can be easily cleaned.


WHEN TO USE EGGSHELL PAINT: Eggshell is commonly used in living rooms and dining rooms, as it is durable and does not pick up dirt easily. If your walls have bumps or imperfections, an extra coat of eggshell can disguise them more easily than satin or high-gloss finishes.

Lucia Tonelli

Assistant Editor

Lucia Tonelli is an Assistant Editor at Town & Country, where she writes about the royal family, culture, real estate, design, and more.  

Eggshell vs. Satin: Which Paint Finish is Right for You?

Photo: homedepot.com

Planning on painting a room or sprucing up a piece of furniture? In addition to picking a color, base (water or oil), and formula (interior or exterior), you’ll also choose a paint finish—a gloss or sheen that’s a measure of the paint’s reflectivity when dry. Paints are available in flat, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, and high-gloss, in order of lowest to highest reflectivity.

Eggshell and satin are popular for interiors because they’re neither too matte nor too glossy—just shiny enough to make a paint project pop. Both can be used on a range of surfaces, but they have different properties that make them better suited for certain applications. Ahead, we break down the differences between the two finishes—eggshell vs. satin—and share which works best where so you can find the perfect finish for your next project.

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Satin is glossier, adding more depth to small spaces.

Satin reflects slightly more light than eggshell and has a soft shimmer similar to that of velvet. In contrast, eggshell reflects almost no light so has a negligible luster comparable to the faint glow of an eggshell. The more pronounced shine of satin sharpens the contours of walls to add depth to small spaces like a hallway or study, making them look a bit bigger. Eggshell looks more one-dimensional, so it won’t do much to open up a cramped space.

RELATED: 21 Clever Tricks to Make Your Home Look Bigger and Brighter

Satin is more durable—an advantage in high-traffic spaces.

In general, higher sheen paints are formulated with less pigment and more binders—resins that make paint more flexible, tough, and hard-wearing. This is why satin paint is more resistant to dents, divots, scuffs, scratches, and stains, and more durable on the whole. Eggshell paint is more likely to become damaged by these impacts and abrasions because it has fewer binders and more pigment.

The durability of satin makes it a better pick for high-traffic surfaces that get banged up on a daily basis—think walls in entryways, children’s bedrooms, or family rooms, and everyday furniture like kitchen chairs and end tables.

Satin is easier to clean—a plus in dirt- and moisture-prone spaces.

The glossier satin sheen translates to a slicker surface that’s slightly quicker and easier to wipe clean of dust, dirt, mildew, and mold. Eggshell requires more elbow grease to get clean because it has more pigments, and the coarse pigment particles make for a rougher surface. This makes satin a better pick in dirt-prone and moisture-rich spaces like children’s bedrooms, playrooms, and bathrooms, where walls can over time collect muddy handprints, food or paint smudges, mildew, or mold.

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Eggshell conceals surface flaws well.

Although satin can fend off scratches, dents, and scuffs better than eggshell, if your painting surface already has these marks, eggshell will conceal them better, That’s because the lower reflectivity dulls the appearance of damages, making the surface look even and flawless. Satin is a poor choice on blemished surfaces because it reflects more light, making the slightest imperfections look more glaring. If you want seamless satin results on a dinged surface, be sure to sand them away before painting.

Eggshell is cheaper.

Paint usually costs $1 to $2 dollars more per gallon for each step up you go in sheen. This makes satin, while a middle-of-the-road price option on the overall sheen spectrum, pricier than eggshell. For example, a gallon of Behr Premium Plus, one of the best interior paints, will run you $27.98 for the eggshell sheen (The Home Depot) and $30.98 for the satin sheen (The Home Depot).

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Eggshell better minimizes application mistakes.

Whether your brush slipped or you let one section of the wall dry too long before painting an adjacent one with a roller, you can usually spot mistakes on a satin-finished surface because more light bounces off, accentuating stray roller lap marks and errant brush strokes. Any paint touch-ups you make after the original application will be just as hard to hide. In contrast, the low reflectivity of eggshell minimizes application goofs and touch-up marks.

RELATED: 12 Easy Fixes for a Botched Paint Job

This makes eggshell a better-looking and less costly option for surfaces that demand an impeccably polished look, including guest bedrooms, formal dining rooms, and living rooms. The lower durability and higher difficulty of cleaning the eggshell sheen aren’t considered drawbacks in these low-traffic, gently used spaces.

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Eggshell is... Pigmentation and factors you may not have known about

Eggshell is the outer shell of an egg with a hard surface (soft outer shell in some egg forms) that usually consists of two main parts: one is the matrix , consisting of protein fibers, and the other is the accumulation of calcium crystals on the above-mentioned protein matrix.

Contents

The main component of the eggshell is calcium carbonate, respectively, the basis for its formation is calcium deposits. The basal layer of the eggshell can only be formed after the use of an organic scaffold consisting of protein and mucopolysaccharides. nine0003

Only after calcium carbonate crystals condense and grow between these scaffolds can an eggshell be formed. Calcium deposition changes over time. At first, the speed is very slow, and then it gradually accelerates. Because the egg remains in the uterus for the first 5~6 hours, calcium deposition will maintain a fairly steady rate until the egg leaves the uterus.

Eggshell is closely related to many factors: breed, genetics, age, diseases and medications. In addition, housing and environmental conditions, breeding methods and egg-laying cages in production practice have a direct and lasting effect on eggshell quality. nine0003

Eggshell color formation

1. Pigmentation

Porphyrin pigment is the main pigment source for eggshell color. One of the degradation products of hemoglobin is brown protoporphyrin (also known as ovoporphyrin), which is an attachment to the film of the outer shell of the eggshell.

The biosynthesis of protoporphyrins does not start until the last 4~5 hours, when the eggshell is formed. The resulting porphyrin pigment is deposited on the outer layer of the eggshell and the upper shell membrane. Only under the action of various enzymes of decomposition and synthesis in the cells of the uterine glands can an eggshell pigment be formed. nine0003

Therefore, the color of the eggshell is the result of the synthesis of pigments contained in the eggshell and the upper membrane of the shell. The product of the synthesis of aminoacetylpropionic acid in the glands of the hen's egg shell is also a source of pigment.

2. Mechanism of pigmentation

Biosynthetic pathway and mechanism of eggshell pigment:

First, formation of hemoglobin must occur. Hemoglobin is only released when laying hens' red blood cells are digested and broken down by the reticular endothelial system in the liver and spleen. nine0003

Second, must form bilirubin. The released hemoglobin will further decompose, and the decomposition products will be globulin, chlorophyll and iron. Among them, the decomposed globulin and iron will return to the laying hens to participate in the body's metabolism, and the formation of bilirubin can only be achieved by reducing the level of bilirubin.

Thirdly, bilirubin is the main raw material for the synthesis of eggshell pigments. The production of bilirubin glucuronide is made in the liver. The production of bilirubin glucuronide is excreted in the duodenum with bile. Most of it will be excreted as waste products after metabolism and excreted in the feces. nine0003

Only a very small part can be reabsorbed and utilized by the intestines, and then circulate through the bloodstream to the liver for metabolism or transfer to the fallopian tubes and other parts as the main raw material for the synthesis of eggshell pigments.

Fourth, consider the status of the main raw material source for the synthesis of eggshell pigments. Pigment raw materials come from red blood cells, and the aging and destruction of red blood cells will continue continuously, it is unlikely that this pigment raw material will be in short supply, and the aforementioned degradation products will be continuously produced, which provide sufficient raw materials for the synthesis of this pigment and guarantee the supply of raw materials. nine0003

After that, under the action of numerous enzymes of decomposition and synthesis in the cells of the uterine glands, the eggshell actively acquires a brown color.

3. Factors affecting eggshell color
Genetic factors

Eggshell color is the most intuitive reflection of breed characteristics. There are two common eggshell colors: white and brown; blue or blue are quite rare.

The reason eggshell color depends on genetic factors is that genetic factors determine the synthesis of protoporphyrins. Pigments derived from natural products or commercial feeds cannot be deposited in egg shells, but can only be deposited in egg yolks. nine0003

Even if pigments are added to the diet, white-shelled hens will find it extremely difficult to produce eggs of any particular color. Therefore, the color of the eggshell can be partially changed and relatively fixed only by long-term selective selection.

Age factor

The age of laying hens has a rather significant effect on the color of the eggshell. Laying hens that have just entered puberty have vigorous follicle growth and development, and a high rate of absorption and use of pigments, so the color of the eggshell is much darker. nine0003

The weight of the egg also increases with the age of the hen, so the eggshell will expand as the volume of the egg increases. The limited membrane on the shell will become thinner due to distribution to the enlarged eggshell, and the color of the eggshell will gradually change from dark to light. This situation is especially pronounced after 40 weeks of "production" - the color of the eggshell will become clearly lighter.

During this period, the ability of chickens to absorb calcium also decreases. Unabsorbed calcium attaches itself to the surface of the eggshell, causing a layer of white calcium powder or calcium grains to sometimes protrude directly onto the surface of the eggshell. The eggshell becomes thinner and its color becomes light gray. nine0003

Hematopoietic function and other physiological and metabolic functions in old laying hens are significantly reduced, resulting in insufficient or limited pigment synthesis, and pigment deposition in the uterus is reduced, making the color of the eggshell lighter.

Disease factors

Tubal lesions in laying hens can also lighten eggshell color. Diseases that affect eggshell color include: chicken infectious bronchitis, typical Newcastle disease and egg drop syndrome, avian influenza, pasteurellosis, salmonella, and E. coli. nine0003

Anticonvulsants, sulfonamides and insect repellents all affect eggshell color.

Stress factor

All stress disorders lighten the color of the eggshell. In addition, it changes with the seasons, with dark colors in winter and light colors in summer. Imbalance or deficiency of trace elements, vitamins and excess calcium make the color of the eggshell lighter.

If you want to improve the red color of the eggshell
  1. Select layers that consistently lay eggs with the most intense brown and red shells. It is necessary to try to stabilize the genetic predisposition to this as much as possible.
  2. Prevention of various diseases and scientific measures of treatment. The most effective measure for the prevention of various diseases, especially diseases of the reproductive system, in the production of chickens is the immunization of chickens. Regularly inspect and monitor the condition of the laying hens and if sick are found, take appropriate measures in a timely manner. At the same time, try to avoid the use of drugs that can lead to lightening of the eggshell. nine0084
  3. Form the right nutrition plans and minimize the reaction to possible stressful situations. Timely supplementation of micronutrients, vitamins, amino acids, and electrolytes during times of stress can alleviate the negative reaction.
  4. The addition of tangerine peel and paprika to the diet may partly contribute to the fact that the eggshell will darken and become more saturated in color.

Egg shells to consider when keeping layers

Due to the influence of many factors such as temperature, humidity, air, storage methods, handling, breeding and housing conditions of laying hens, as well as micro-organisms, enzymes or external Eggs may be subject to varying degrees of spoilage, cracking or other damage that reduces the quality of fresh eggs. nine0003

Under normal feeding and housing conditions, culling of spoiled eggs can be controlled to around 2%.

Production operations in the coop should be as stable as possible, including regularly turning lights on or off, feeding, collecting eggs, disinfecting, cleaning and removing manure, etc. Personnel must be quiet and move easily when entering the poultry farm (coop).

Any active work such as trapping, weighing, immunizing, injecting, changing materials and moving groups should not be done during oviposition. Otherwise, the eggshell can quickly lose quality, which will be difficult to guarantee. nine0003

Egg shells and temperatures

A stable ambient temperature, lighting system and indoor air quality for laying hens also have a big impact on egg shells.

The suitable ambient temperature for laying hens is 13~25℃, and the optimum egg laying temperature is 20. phosphorus increases, the acid-base balance of the blood is disturbed, and the absorption of calcium in the digestive tract practically stops. nine0003

This leads to a decrease in the production of chicken eggs, the weight of the eggs and the quality of the shell, this is especially evident in the fact that the egg shell becomes very thin. The number of small and cracked eggs increases. A high ambient temperature also makes the color of the eggshell visibly lighter. In the hot season, measures should be strengthened to reduce the negative impact of summer heat.

When the levels of harmful gases, dust and microorganisms in the air are exceeded, chickens usually have reduced immunity, which also leads to a decrease in egg production, egg shell contamination and overall egg quality. nine0003

The influence of light can also quite significantly affect not only the egg production of chickens. During oviposition, it is advisable to ensure that daylight is present in the coop for 16 hours. In this case, it is necessary to take into account: Too many hours of light or its high intensity can also lead to the fact that the eggshell will lose quality.

Young laying hens and their management

Young laying hens are more sensitive to environmental changes. When pullets under normal conditions lay their first eggs, they show increased arousal, somewhat hysterical behavior and high sensitivity to even minor changes in the environment. nine0003

Therefore, sometimes even minor changes can easily alarm the flock, causing great damage to egg production and eggshell quality.

Cages for laying eggs

Normally, when keeping laying hens, both in small farms and in large poultry farms, cages are mainly used. Therefore, cell equipment is especially important.

The structure of the laying hen cage must be adapted to the number of hens reared and the laying requirements. The choice of material, size, length and angle must comply with the requirements of the physiology of the activity of chickens. nine0003

Generally, a laying cage consists of a bottom net, a front net, a divider net, an upper net and a back net. The bottom of the cage protrudes 16-20 cm forward, as a trough for collecting eggs. The bottom mesh of the cage is at an angle of 7~8° to the level, which serves to roll the eggs to the edge of the trough.

Of course, it should be taken into account that if the slope is too high, the egg rolls out faster and the shell can be easily damaged; if the slope is too low, the egg remains in the cage for a long time, with all the chances of receiving various kinds of damage. nine0003

The area under the cage occupied by each light weight hen must be ≥333 cm2. In production practice, 380~400 cm2 is often used, and 450~480 cm2 is suitable for medium-sized layers. If there are too many layers in the cage, egg production is reduced and the chance of egg damage is increased.

Egg collection time

Eggs must be collected on time according to egg laying time and volumes. Most of the eggs are laid by hens from 8:00 to 15:00 hours, of which the number of eggs laid before 12:00 is from 70% to 80% of the total during the day. nine0003

During the oviposition period, it is advisable to start the first collection of eggs no later than 11:00 am. Then you should collect eggs every 1-2 hours and so on until the last collection at 16:00.

During peak laying periods in winter and summer, eggs can be collected once per hour. This allows not only to effectively reduce the number of damaged and dirty eggs, to ensure the quality of the egg shell, but also to avoid the adverse effects of low and high temperatures for a long time on the viability of the embryos, as well as to reduce the time the eggs stay in the chicken coop. nine0003

If the eggs are not collected in time, it will encourage the hens to develop and form the bad habit of pecking eggs, and may even spread throughout the whole herd , not only damaging the quality of the eggshell, but also seriously affecting the economic benefit of the entire batch of laying hens.

Collected eggs should be disinfected in time and transferred to the egg store as soon as possible to increase storage time and eliminate the risk of secondary damage.

Who is interested in news of old age, including what kind of feed to feed livestock and when, as well as opinion and experience in the field of current events in our personal subsidiary farm - subscribe to the channel at Zen and the channel at YouTube

Eggshells in the garden as fertilizer or protection against slugs - truth and myths Some summer residents are sure that the shell has miraculous properties and collect it all winter to apply next season, while others are very skeptical of such a practice. The truth, as always, is out there somewhere0003

“Rinse the eggshell, let it dry, and use a mortar and pestle, rolling pin or food processor to grind it into a fine powder. Add coffee grounds, which are rich in nitrogen and potassium, and mix the powder with the compost, or sprinkle the top dressing separately on the beds. This will help deliver a complex of nutrients to the plants, prevent blossom end rot of peppers and tomatoes, and large crushed shells will cut slugs and snails.

“Make a fertilizing tea with eggshells. To a three-liter pot of boiling water, add 20 clean and dry eggshells, leave them overnight in water, then strain and apply two cups to each bush of tomatoes, peppers and strawberries every two weeks. This will improve the quality and taste of the fruit.” nine0003

Familiar advice?

If you search the Internet for "eggshell benefits in the garden", search engines will offer a lot of articles about how the miracle cure has changed the life of gardeners for the better. This organic material is recommended for everything from pest control to fertilizer.

Let's take a closer look at the recommendations and find out which ones are useful and which ones can be ignored.

The strong eggshell keeps the chicks safe and sound until they are ready to hatch into adulthood and is primarily composed of calcium carbonate. nine0003

To be precise, the ratio of elements is as follows. The shell of one egg accounts for: calcium 50 ppm, sulfur 39 ppm, magnesium 12 ppm and potassium 12 ppm; 21 ppm sodium and 5% organics in the inner white shell.

Taking into account these factors - strength and nutritional value - gardeners draw their own conclusions.

Eggshell for pest control

Myth . There is an opinion among gardeners, and especially among fans of organic farming, that eggshells are an excellent solution for controlling soft-bodied pests such as snails and slugs. Allegedly, the sharp edges of broken shells inflict wounds on slugs and are an obstacle to eating the plant. nine0003

True . In reality, alas, this will not work. Slugs and snails break through such a barrier quite easily, because there is not enough “killer” sharpness in it. You will have better luck with diatomaceous earth.

Eggshell as soil fertilizer

Another popular belief is that by sprinkling eggshell crumbs on your garden bed, you get a free and effective organic fertilizer.

And how is it really? Yes, egg shells will break down over time, and this must be taken into account. That is, if your plants have a calcium deficiency, you will not be able to promptly help. You will have to spray the plants with liquid foliar fertilizer with calcium in order to quickly deliver the necessary nutrient to the vegetable crops through the leaf plate. nine0003

For example, the problem of blossom end rot in tomatoes or peppers is often an annoyance to gardeners. The reason is known. Usually it is calcium deficiency.

Can a single shell application solve it? No. And, first of all, because blossom end rot is NOT caused by calcium deficiency in the soil. This is a problem for plants when they do not transfer calcium to developing fruits.

By and large, eggshells generally do not contain significant amounts of any of the cardinal macronutrients for vegetables or fruits. Even if you start preparing a “calcium infusion” by soaking it in water, the output of this element is extremely low. And what gardeners think is the benefit of the shell is actually the benefit of watering. nine0003

Compost ingredient

But this popular opinion is the pure truth! Egg shells are an ideal addition to the compost heap and biohumus. Red Californian worms (or red wigglers) love the tiny bits of shell that help their body grind up other food they eat.

Both the first and the second require thorough grinding in a blender.

Mulch

Eggshell mulching is a matter of taste and principle. Since to create a working layer of 5 cm on a plot of six acres, you will have to eat eggs from morning to evening. Why so much effort when there are so many other materials from compost to straw, leaf mold or wood chips? nine0003

Instead of pots for seedlings

On the Internet, there is sometimes this advice: “Use eggshells to sow seeds for seedlings without spending a dime. Your plants will get all the nutrients they need when the shell starts to decompose.”

Myth . Firstly, there will be too little space for seedlings. Secondly, information about additional nutrients is also not true.


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