Wisteria growth rate
How Fast Does Wisteria Grow? 10 Tips to Encourage Quicker Growth
Wisteria is a vigorous grower, and we love how it can cover pergolas, arches, fences, etc., in curtains of fragrant blossoms. But sometimes things go wrong, and your Wisteria doesn’t grow as fast as you expected. Luckily, there are steps you can take to jumpstart Wisteria growth.
If your Wisteria isn’t growing, make sure it’s healthy and has the right growing conditions. Check for pests and disease, provide space to climb, plenty of sunlight, sufficient water, and add amendments to your soil. You may also need to give your plant time to establish a strong root system.
We’ve got ten things you can do to speed up your Wisteria growth. Follow our tips, and your Wisteria will be living up to the hype in no time.
How Fast Does Wisteria Grow?
Wisteria can grow at what feels like lightning speed. Depending on the variety and conditions, it can quickly grow ten feet per year or even up to 25 feet. Remember that this growth isn’t just straight up; Wisteria puts out shoots that can grow several feet in a season.
Wisteria grows fastest after they’ve had a few years to get established and before they reach mature size. Typical mature height for Wisteria ranges from 10 feet to over 30 feet, depending on the type of Wisteria, and some will keep growing indefinitely.
Young and recently planted Wisteria tend to grow much more slowly while their roots get established. When you buy a Wisteria plant from a nursery, expect minimal growth for the first year or two, moderate growth for the next couple of years after that, and then the crazy fast growth Wisteria is famous for.
It can also take several years for Wisteria to bloom. A Wisteria from a nursery will usually start to bloom two to five years after you plant it. If you start Wisteria from seed, it can take as much as 15 years to flower.
How To Encourage Wisteria To Grow Faster
When it comes to the quick sprawl we so separately want to see for our Wisteria, growing conditions and time are the important factors.
In the perfect location, Wisteria can take off pretty quickly, but it won’t grow at all under the wrong conditions. Below you will find our ten tips for growing your Wisteria bigger faster.
Tip 1: Give It Time
With a Wisteria you’ve recently planted, not growing the first year or two is pretty common. Wisteria usually is a fast grower, but it is also long-lived and takes time to get established.
If you planted the Wisteria within the last year or two and it hasn’t taken off yet, it may just be getting its root system established. As long as the foliage looks healthy, don’t worry — give it another year, and there’s a good chance next summer it’ll start growing like crazy. Sometimes Wisteria can take as long as five years to start the notoriously rapid growth you hear about, but it’s uncommon to take that long.
Tip 2: Treat Any Pests or Diseases
If your Wisteria is suffering from bugs or disease, that could be inhibiting its growth.
Wilted areas, yellow or brown leaves, and spots on leaves or stems can indicate that the Wisteria isn’t healthy. Check the plant over carefully for pests.
Wisteria is prone to scale insects, borers, aphids, honey mildew, powdery mildew, leaf spots, and crown rot. If your Wisteria is suffering from health problems, clearing those up could be essential to get it growing again.
Tip 3: Make Sure It Gets Plenty of Sun
Wisteria likes full sun, especially while it’s young. Older plants and some Wisteria varieties can tolerate part shade, but failure to grow may be a sign that your plant is not getting the amount of sun it needs.
This can be tough to fix when your Wisteria is already in the ground. If other plants around the Wisteria are shading it, consider pruning or relocating them. (If it isn’t possible to get your Wisteria more sun, you may simply want to get another one and plant it in a sunnier spot.) You can also try transplanting, but know that Wisteria doesn’t always respond well to being moved.
Tip 4: Water
Wisteria, especially when mature, is thirsty. If the weather has been dry and your Wisteria is looking wilted, not getting enough water could be the culprit. Give it a drink, but be sure not to overwater, particularly if your soil doesn’t drain very well. Wisteria doesn’t like wet feet.
Tip 5: Improve Your Soil
Wisteria isn’t too picky about soil, but it does have some needs, and the wrong soil could prevent average growth. The best soil for Wisteria is well-drained, moist, neutral to mildly acidic, moderately fertile, and deep.
If your soil isn’t draining well, you can try incorporating some compost into the soil around the Wisteria. Also, avoid compacting the soil – walk on it as little as possible and put down mulch to absorb your weight when you need to walk there.
If your soil is alkaline (the opposite of acidic), apply some garden sulfur, ammonium sulfate, or ferrous sulfate to bring the pH down. You can get your soil tested through your local extension service.
For more information on the best soil for your Wisteria, read this article.
Tip 6: Fertilize (or Stop Fertilizing)
Wisteria doesn’t need super fertile soil, but if your soil is really deficient in nutrients, you might need to apply some fertilizer to get your Wisteria growing. This is especially true if you’re growing Wisteria in a container and haven’t repotted or applied fertilizer in a couple of years.
Like other legumes, Wisteria is nitrogen-fixing (meaning it can convert and use atmospheric nitrogen), so it generally doesn’t need a nitrogen fertilizer. However, young plants can benefit from a little extra nitrogen, which encourages foliage growth, so you could use an all-purpose fertilizer. A lot of gardeners use bone meal to feed their Wisteria since it provides mainly phosphorus.
The funny thing with fertilizer is that too much is just as harmful as not enough. If you’ve been using fertilizer on your Wisteria and it isn’t growing, try taking a break from fertilizer and giving the soil a good flush with plenty of water.
Excess fertilizer can build up in your soil and cause problems for plants.
We have an entire article dedicated to the topic of fertilizing Wisteria. Find it here.
Tip 7: Prune
Gardeners usually have to prune their Wisteria to keep it from getting too large, but a good pruning can also encourage growth. Pruning encourages branching, as opposed to a few shoots getting really long. Also, if you notice suckers, little starts at the base of the plant, pruning those can help the Wisteria put energy into growing elsewhere.
Tip 8: Give It Something to Climb
Wisteria is a twining vine, and it likes to climb trellises, arbors, fences, walls, and trees. To help your Wisteria grow taller, give it something vertical to climb up. Just make sure whatever you train your Wisteria to climb on is sturdy, and you don’t mind it getting completely covered within a few years. Find more information on training Wisteria to climb here.
Tip 9: Twine It In the Right Direction
If you’re training your Wisteria around something, make sure you’re twining it in the right direction.
Japanese Wisteria twists in a clockwise direction, while Chinese and American Wisterias twine counter-clockwise. If you twist your Wisteria in the wrong direction, it will have to adjust before it can grow properly.
Tip 10: Plant It In the Ground
If your Wisteria is growing in a container, it may not have enough space or enough nutrients to grow. Wisteria needs deep soil to sink its roots into so it can achieve that voracious growth. While Wisteria can be successfully grown in containers, a too-small container can be a problem.
It is also more important to regularly replenish nutrients in container soil than it is with garden soil. You need to feed container soil with either fertilizer or compost every year.
If you choose to transplant a container Wisteria to the garden, make sure to follow best practices. Wisteria can be difficult to transplant and doesn’t always respond well.
Which Types of Wisteria Grow the Fastest?
Japanese and Chinese Wisteria varieties are faster growing than American Wisteria varieties.
Of course, any plant needs the right conditions to grow well, so choosing the right Wisteria for your climate is essential. Other things being equal; however, Chinese Wisteria (Wisteria Sinensis) is the fastest growing.
What Conditions are Best for Wisteria?
Wisteria thrives in warm, sunny places with well-drained, moist, neutral to acidic soil. Most varieties can grow in USDA zones 5-9 but do best on the warmer end of that spectrum. The newer Kentucky Wisteria is hardy to zone 3.
Regardless of the growing zone, Wisteria needs plenty of sun. Full sun is best for blooming and for young plants that are still getting established. Older plants can more easily tolerate part shade, but they need direct sun too.
Wisteria is flexible about soil type when the provided soil drains fairly well and isn’t alkaline. They also need deep soil to accommodate their large size.
Closing Thoughts
Once you get your Wisteria growing, it’s a good idea to prune it every year, or even twice a year.
Make sure there’s plenty of space around the Wisteria to keep it from taking over nearby plants, and don’t plant it next to your house (trust me, you don’t want to deal with that).
With Wisteria, getting it to grow isn’t usually the challenge. Keeping it from growing out of control is a much more common problem. In fact, a Wisteria plant in California covered more than an acre and was awarded a Guinness World Record for its size.
Its rapid growth and spectacular blooms make Wisteria a great choice to train over a pergola, fence, or other structure. Whether you’re creating a shady nook or hiding an eyesore, Wisteria can cover it in no time once it gets going.
How to Grow Wisteria | Garden Design
A gardener’s guide to planting & caring for a wisteria vine By Anne Balogh
Brimming with clusters of fragrant flowers in spring, the showstopping wisteria vine is loved by many gardeners despite its assertive reputation. An extremely vigorous grower, this perennial can get out of hand easily unless carefully restrained.
Here are some tips for cultivating all wisteria has to offer while taming its aggressive growth habits.
To see other flowering vine options, check out our list of 21 Flowering Vines.
TRAINING WISTERIA: TRELLISES, PERGOLAS & OTHER SUPPORT STRUCTURES
Wisteria requires a sturdy support structure, such as this well-built pergola.
With its climbing agility and fast growth habits, wisteria can completely transform a garden in just a few years, becoming a breathtaking shade cover, privacy screen, or focal point. Wisteria has the greatest impact when trained to grow on pergolas, arbors, and other strong overhanging supports so the long flower clusters can hang freely, creating a stunning floral canopy. In Japan, wisteria is even trained onto massive trellises to form blooming tunnels in spring. You can also train wisteria onto wires mounted on fences or stone walls or drape them over garden benches or arched entryways.
Although you may be tempted to let wisteria twine around the trunk of a tree, its vice-like grip will eventually strangle it.
To achieve a similar effect, you can train wisteria as a single-trunk, free-standing tree by staking the thick woody stem of the plant to a sturdy post or 4-by-4 embedded securely in the ground. As the plant grows, remove all unwanted growth along the trunk, allowing only the top to grow. Using the same techniques on a smaller scale, wisteria can be grown in large pots or as a bonsai tree.
Whatever trellising method you use, make sure the system is sturdy. Wisterias will readily topple weak wooden trellises, so use durable materials such as heavy metal pipe set in concrete or pressure-treated or rot-resistant wood beams. Also avoid growing the vines alongside your house, because they can creep under siding and wrap around gutters.
Keep in mind that once wisteria becomes well-established, it can be very difficult if not impossible to move later. Choose your planting location and design intent carefully, because you may not be able to change your mind later.
HOW TO GET YOUR WISTERIA TO BLOOM
Be patient, a newly planted wisteria may take several years to mature before it begins flowering.
Gardeners are often devastated when their wisteria fails to bloom the first season after planting. With young plants, be patient. Wisteria takes several years to mature and become established before it begins flowering with gusto. However, a lack of flowering can also be attributed to other factors, such as too much fertilizer, improper pruning, injury to the flower buds by frost exposure, or too much shade. Here are some tips from Toronto Master Gardeners for guaranteeing a profusion of blooms:
- Avoid buying wisteria planted from seed. Seed-grown plants remain in a juvenile state for an extended period and can take up to 15 years to bloom. Instead, choose varieties that are grafted or propagated from cuttings from a reliable bloomer.
- To eliminate the risk of frost damage to flower buds, grow American wisteria or Kentucky wisteria. These plants form buds on the current season’s growth.
- Don’t overwater or fertilize established vines. Wisteria needs to undergo a bit of stress to force the development of flower buds.
Too much water or the application of high-nitrogen fertilizers will encourage leaf production at the expense of flowering. - Wisteria planted in full sun will bloom more reliably than plants located in part shade. Make sure the upper part of the plant receives at least six hours of daily sun exposure.
Here are some of the most popular wisteria cultivars:
Swipe to view slides
Photo by: Müller/ McPhoto / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria floribunda ‘Rosea'
Soft pink 13- to 16-inch flower clusters tinged with lavender. Grows more slowly than other cultivars (2 to 3 feet per year), making it a good choice for smaller gardens.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: Garden World Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria floribunda ‘Snow Showers’
Pure white, pea-like flowers give the impression of snow falling in springtime. Very fragrant.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: nnattalli / Shutterstock.
Wisteria floribunda 'Longissima Alba'
Very fragrant white wisteria with dense flower clusters up to 20 inches long.
Zones: 4-9
Photo by: Tim Gainey / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria floribunda 'Royal Purple'
Very fragrant white wisteria with dense flower clusters up to 20 inches long.
Zones: 4-9
Photo by: Garden World Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria floribunda 'Violacea Plena'
Showy blue-violet double flowers that fade to pale lavender.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: InfoFlowersPlants / Shutterstock.
Wisteria sinensis 'Alba'
Short clusters of fragrant, pure white, pea-like flowers.
Zones: 5-8
Photo by: Wiert Nieuman / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria sinensis 'Prolific'
Noted for its prolific clusters of lilac-blue flowers.
Typically begins blooming at an earlier age than other cultivars.
Zones: 5-8
Photo by: Garden World Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria frutescens 'Amethyst Falls'
Blooms at an early age, often its first season, with lightly fragrant lilac-blue flowers. Blooms also arrive about two weeks later than other varieties, so the buds are rarely affected by a late frost.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: Carl Boro / Millette Photomedia.
Wisteria frutescens 'Longwood Purple'
This American wisteria flowers later than Asian varieties, but can repeat bloom through September. Offers a remarkable display of grape-like flower clusters.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: Jennifer Martin-Atkins / Millette Photomedia.
Wisteria macrostachya 'Aunt Dee'
Abundant 8- to 12-inch-long clusters of fragrant lilac-blue flowers on new growth.
Blooms at an early age.
Zones: 4-9
Photo by: blickwinkel / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria macrostachya ‘Blue Moon'
Produces foot-long clusters of lavender-blue flowers in spring, with repeat blooming throughout the growing season once established.
Zones: 3-9
Photo by: Paul S Drobot / Millette Photomedia.
Wisteria macrostachya 'Clara Mack'
A pure white flowering form of Kentucky wisteria with dark green foliage.
Zones: 3-9
Not pictured:
Wisteria floribunda 'Lawrence'
Pale violet-blue flowers. The 12- to-18-inch clusters are loaded with as many as 160 blooms, more than all other Japanese wisteria.
Zones: 5-9
Wisteria frutescens 'Nivea'
Densely packed white flower clusters only 6 inches long, creating a pinecone-like shape.
Zones: 5-9
WHERE TO BUY WISTERIA
American Meadows
Brushwood Nursery
Digging Dog Nursery
Fast Growing Trees Nursery
Monrovia
Nature Hills Nursery
Spring Hill Nurseries
Thompson & Morgan
Wayside Gardens
Wilson Bros Gardens
WISTERIA Q&A
How large can wisteria get?
Wisteria vines can grow to epic proportions, spreading 100 feet or more under ideal growing conditions.
The world’s largest known wisteria, located in Sierra Madre, Calif., was planted in 1894 and covers more than one acre.
Why does wisteria make loud popping noises?
Wisteria is a member of the pea family (Fabaceae), and similar to sweet pea vines, it produces long (but poisonous) seedpods after the flowers fade. When the pods ripen and turn brown, they explode with enough force to eject the seeds far away from the parent plant. This is Mother Nature’s way of preventing the overcrowding of seedlings, so they can germinate and grow without competition.
How long will wisteria live?
Planting wisteria is a long-term commitment. If you put a plant in the ground now, it may still be blooming and growing a century later if left undisturbed. One of the oldest wisteria vines, located in Japan’s Ashikaga Flower Park, dates back to 1870.
READER QUESTIONS
Q: I love wisteria but am having a hard time with it here in Minnesota. It’s not making much progress up my wooden arbor.
- James A. Reider, White Bear Lake, Minn.
A: Your wisteria is root-hardy, but all the top growth it puts on each year is killed by severe winter temperatures. No wonder it’s not getting anywhere on your arbor. The two most common wisterias are W. sinensis and W. floribunda; the latter is a bit hardier. Its flower clusters are longer and more fragrant, but if your plant has never flowered, the best way to tell which one you have is the manner in which it twines: clockwise for W. floribunda, counterclockwise for W. sinensis. If you find you are growing the less hardy species, you might give W. floribunda a whirl, or even better yet, the native W. macrostachya. You might also consider wrapping the new growth in burlap for a little extra protection. If swaddling it is out of the question, you may have to settle on another vine. Incidentally, I hope your arbor is made of strong, thick timber: wisteria’s anacondalike stems have brought down many a finely wrought Victorian porch and gazebo.
Americans seem to have a strong distrust of vines; we grow them much less than other garden plants. It probably comes from a Freudian hang-up about lush, twining, probing shoots and tendrils or, more likely, our fear of the self-important, strangling imported thugs we see taking over in nature - porcelain berry, Hall’s honeysuckle, and kudzu. I’d like to see increased use of vines and more imaginative ways of growing them. Why not plant different vines at the base of your arbor and let them fight it out? You’ll have more interesting foliage shapes and textures and more flowers over a longer period of time. And, should some prove not as hardy or as vigorous as others, you won’t be left with a bare arbor. Why not be Darwinian and let the tough Minnesota winters weed out the weaklings?
Try trumpet creeper — the plain red species (Campsis radicans), not the named varieties that are less hardy — for its deep-green foliage and wonderful junglelike red flowers in late summer.
It’s vigorous and can climb up a wooden arbor unassisted. Native Dutchman’s pipe (Aristolochia macrophylla) is a gamble in hardiness, but give it a try. It’s rambunctious and casts a deep shade with its large, tropical-looking leaves. A hardy, fast-growing native whose foliage turns scarlet in the fall is Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia).
RELATED:
20 Fragrant Flowering Plants
outdoor care and cultivation, how to propagate and plant
Wisterias are flowers that are used in garden and park compositions. They look spectacular because of the structural features and can decorate any area. Growing wisteria is associated with compliance with the rules for care. In order for wisteria to please with their flowering, it is necessary to choose the right places for their placement, as well as control their growth.
Contents
- 1 General information about wisteria
- 2 varieties and varieties of
- 3 specifics of flowing colors
- 3.
1 Requirements for soil - 3.2 Choosing a location 9000 3.3 How and when to plant
- 3.
- 9000 4.1 Fertilizing Glycinia
- 7.1
- 7.2 lignified cuttings
- 7.3 Winter root vaccination
- 7.4 Of the seeds
- Wisteria bush can grow up to 18-20 meters. It forms a system of pinnate leaves, they are wedge-shaped and stretch up to 30 centimeters in length.
- Flowers collected in a brush. Under the weight of small flowers, the inflorescences are pulled down, which reminds many of the jets of a rapid waterfall.
Wisteria flowers can be of different shades: pink-white and lilac varieties are bred by selection. Purple or light lilac petals are considered common.
Wild wisteria are found in the forest areas of the Chinese provinces. Cultivated hybrid types are grown in the south of Russia, in Europe with a temperate warm climate. In the United States, wisteria began to be grown as houseplants. At the same time, the tree is formed in the common bonsai style, leaving the woody trunk bare.
Varieties and Varieties
Wisteria became widespread after varieties adapted to different conditions were artificially bred from wild species.
Among the 9 officially existing species, only 3 are especially popular.
- Chinese wisteria. Liana of this variety reaches 25 meters, the shoots twist inward. A small white edge appears on the leaves at the stage of ovary formation, then it disappears.
The leaves grow up to 20-30 centimeters, they are narrow, unpaired. Inflorescences are formed on the tops or apical depressions. The color scheme varies from white to lilac. The flowers are small, can grow up to 2.5 centimeters. The growing season takes about 150 days. The species blooms from May to August. - Profuse flowering or Japanese wisteria. This variety begins to bloom in March, inflorescences can stretch up to 80 centimeters. The shades of the petals of some hybrids can be red and yellow. This species is considered especially spectacular; it is Japanese wisteria that is customarily used to decorate arches in parks and gardens.
- Shrub or American wisteria. More compact variety. Inflorescences grow up to 15 centimeters. It looks like an acacia, sometimes they are confused. Among the varieties of the shrub variety, the Macrostahia Blue Moon variety (Blue Moon) is especially popular. The variety was bred in America. A married couple living in the northern state worked for several years to create a frost-resistant variety.
They managed to create a hybrid that can withstand frosts down to -20 degrees. - Indoor or home wisteria. These are small trees that form in the bonsai style. At home, flowers feel comfortable if planted in a large pot.
The specifics of growing flowers
Wisterias, due to their growth and structure, have special requirements for maintenance and care. Growing in the Middle lane is possible only if additional conditions are created. In addition, wisteria must be properly cared for.
Soil requirements
Soil characteristics suitable for growing wisteria consist of 3 points. The earth should be light, loose and nutritious. To achieve these indicators, you need to check the acidity of the soil. For planting, slightly acidic soils are suitable, in which the lime content is minimized. Clay soils with a maximum set of nutrients are the best option for plants.
Choice of location
Wisterias are thermophilic flowers. The homeland of wild species is the humid tropics, therefore, for the full growth and development of other hybrid varieties, warm areas are needed.
To choose a landing site, you must be guided by the following rules:
- the site is chosen from the south side;
- Ideal for places protected from through winds;
- plants must be exposed to sunlight for at least 10 hours;
- it is necessary to take into account the tendency of the species to grow;
- creepers need special supports, a good option is a pre-installed trellis.
How and when to plant
The period when the flowers are planted outdoors should exclude the possibility of returning frosts. Despite the fact that hybrid varieties are frost-resistant, after transplanting they can freeze during the adaptation stage. Seedlings are planted in deep holes with dimensions of 50 by 50 centimeters. Prepared drainage is placed at the bottom of the hole. In addition, mineral fertilizers are applied during planting.
Information! After planting, wisteria can reduce the growth rate. This means that the root system of the flower is adapting to new growth conditions.
Further care of the crop
After planting comes a crucial period that determines the future of the flower. Care is associated with species characteristics.
Fertilizing and feeding wisteria
Like any abundantly flowering plant, wisteria spends energy on the formation of inflorescences and long flowering. Therefore, feeding is an important part of care. They are carried out in accordance with certain rules:
- At the stage of active formation of green mass, plants need to be supplemented with mineral and organic supplements. They are applied 1 time in 7 days, alternating with each other.
- 1-2 times during flowering plants are watered with chalky water.
- The term for making the first dressing is March.
Watering
Watering should be regular throughout the spring and summer. Watering is carried out as the soil dries. The earth should be constantly moistened, and excessive dampness should be avoided.
Stagnation of moisture leads to rotting of the roots, which is manifested by falling off the color and changing the shades of the leaf plates.
Humidity
It is difficult to control the humidity in the garden, so flower growers resort to some tricks. Wisterias do not like dry air. During a dry summer, artificial sprinklers are turned on next to the vines. At the same time, they make sure that moisture is sprayed not on the vines, but next to them.
Temperature conditions
Wisteria requires an average air temperature of at least +20 degrees to bloom.
A hardy cultivar that can survive hard frosts, but will not flower in low temperatures.
Pruning
This is an important step in growing a plant. The continued existence of the variety depends on the correct pruning.
First pruning in early spring. Subject to removal:
- dead branches;
- old shoots;
- overgrown branches that interfere with formation.
When flowering, faded brushes are removed immediately so that they do not interfere with the further process.
How to cover for the winter
In Siberia, the Leningrad region and the Moscow region, wisteria need additional shelter for the winter. Preparation begins in late autumn. Creepers are removed from supports, cut off non-viable parts. Creepers are carefully laid on the ground in the direction of growth. Then they are covered with a layer of coniferous branches, sawdust or agrofibre. A thin layer of prepared soil is poured over the shelter. Thus, the plant will be protected from frost. An additional layer will be snow cover.
Treatment for diseases and pests
The specific deficiency of wisteria lies in its resistance to diseases and pests. This is of particular danger, because flower growers recommend preparing vines in advance.
After planting in spring, the plants are sprayed with special chemicals.
- Carry out a staged treatment against aphids and mites.
- The soil is supplemented with mineral complexes that can stop the development of fungal infections.
Peculiarities of cultivation in the regions
In the south of the country, wisteria grows without additional conditions. In the north, creepers are sheltered for the winter. In addition, in the territory of Siberia or the Urals, creepers are fed with organic fertilizers 2 times more than in other regions of the country. They grow those varieties that have increased winter hardiness.
Propagation methods
Various methods are used to breed varieties. Choose the one that is best suited, depending on the climatic conditions.
Layering
Structural features allow you to breed wisteria layering. This method is suitable for creeping, climbing varieties. Liana is dug into the ground, evenly distributing it along a previously prepared groove.
Layers are left for rooting. The following season, they are separated from the mother tree and transplanted to a new location. The method preserves the varietal characteristics of wisteria.
Lignified cuttings
One way to propagate wisteria involves cutting young cuttings and rooting in water or soil. For cuttings, a shoot with a length of at least 15 centimeters is chosen, then powdered with a biostimulator for root growth and rooted by water or soil. Rooting, as a rule, is carried out before winter in order to plant prepared seedlings in the spring.
Winter root grafting
In addition, wisteria can be propagated by grafting. The goal is to develop a new variety. To do this, use varietal and non-varietal types. Roots that have reached 6 millimeters are dug in the fall.
Then they are rooted separately for several months. Rooted cuttings of a non-varietal type are combined with the same cuttings of the selected variety. They are tied to each other with adhesive tape, treated with fungicides and released into a container with soil for further joint rooting.
In spring, the seedling will be ready for planting in its permanent place of growth, provided that more than 10 new leaves appear. If there are fewer leaves in the axils, then the shoot is removed for growing. Heated greenhouses are suitable for this.
From seeds
Wisteria seeds are purchased from specialized stores. They are sown in autumn in containers with low sides. Seeds are buried by 2 centimeters, then sprinkled with the remaining soil. Before germination, the topsoil is sprayed with a spray bottle. For growth, it is necessary to maintain a temperature regime from +23 to +25 degrees.
Wisteria seedlings are grown in the classical way, before planting in open ground, special preparations begin. The containers are taken out to fresh air to harden the sprouts and reduce the effects of planting stress.
Landscaping
Wisterias are suitable for landscape decoration:
- when decorating arched compositions;
- for decorating pavilions, balconies;
- as a hedge element.
A prerequisite for the growth of wisteria is the use of additional supports, which allow the vines not only to grow up, but also to expand in width.
care and cultivation at home in the middle lane, planting, species, reproduction (100 photos) - Koshkin Dom
The wisteria flower attracts gardeners with its unsurpassed beauty and fragrant aroma. During flowering, wisteria (the second name of the plant) is covered with many flowering brushes, which, like a waterfall, fall from the bush. If you want to create a recreation area on your garden plot and are looking for a suitable flower for its decoration, then wisteria will come in handy more than ever. It is quite often used in vertical gardening, and the Japanese compare a walk in the park with a flowering plant to a walk in the Gardens of Eden. Naturally, in order to grow a healthy shrub and achieve abundant flowering, favorable microclimatic conditions should be created for it.
We invite you to consider the characteristic features of the plant, its main types, as well as the recommendations of wisteria care specialists.
Content
- What does the wisteria look like
- Types and glycine varieties
- Glycinia Chinese Blue Sapphire
- Glycinia Alba
- Glycinia of Floribunda (abundantly flowering, multi -flowered macrostachia (coarse -resistant) 9000 Wisteria indoor
- Wisteria bonsai
- Wisteria beautiful
- Wisteria shrub
- Wisteria japonica
- Light
- Temperature 9000
- Layers
- Seeds
- Soil
- Growing wisteria in a pot
- Planting wisteria outdoors
- Care after planting
What does wisteria look like
Wisteria.
This is a tall tree-like climbing subtropical plant from the Legume family Wisteria is a tree-like flowering deciduous liana with hanging branches. An adult plant can reach up to 15-20 meters in height. It has pinnate leaves up to 40 centimeters in length, which are covered with small villi in the first few years of the plant's life. The flowers are collected in drooping brushes, reaching up to 50 centimeters in length, and can be painted in purple, white or purple. Wisteria is characterized by a fairly long flowering, which lasts from late March to early September. It is often used in landscape design to create unusual flower arrangements, mask unsightly buildings, and decorate parks. It can be grown as a liana, exquisitely wrapping around a fence, or an arbor, or a standard tree decorating a garden.
Wisteria is widely used in the design of plots and gardensTypes and varieties of wisteria
Wisteria is a representative of the genus of dendroid climbing plants of the legume family, numbering 9 varieties.
Almost all of them prefer a tropical climate, so for a long time they could not be grown in Russia. Fortunately, thanks to the efforts of breeders, many varieties have appeared that do not require special care and are able to withstand temperatures as low as -23 ° C. It is interesting that even the guest house in the resort area of Lazarevskoye and Feodosia was named after this beautiful flower. We propose to consider a description of the most common species, as well as to study their characteristic features.
Wisteria sinensis blue sapphire
Blue sapphire is a densely leafed liana that can grow up to 15-20 meters in height under natural conditions. It has pinnate, large leaves. Young shoots are densely pubescent, but after some time they become smooth. Pale purple flowers are collected in loose brushes, reaching 20-30 centimeters in length. Get ready for the fact that the wisteria grows quite quickly, braiding all the supports that meet in its path.
We recommend that you prepare a separate place for the flower in advance so as not to injure it later. Often, gardeners give the liana a standard shape through pruning. In this case, it grows up to only 6 meters and grows like a free-standing tree. During flowering, which lasts from September to August, wisteria exudes a pleasant aroma that spreads throughout the site. Also popular among gardeners was a variety of Chinese wisteria called prolific.
Alba Wisteria
It is a decorative perennial deciduous vine. The plant has many falling shoots that can grow up to 25 meters in length. Massive stems (up to 30-35 centimeters in diameter) become woody over time. In the early stages of growth, young shoots should be directed in the right direction, because after they harden, it will be almost impossible to give them the desired shape. During the flowering period, wisteria is densely covered with clusters of snow-white flowers.
There are also hybrids with pink and lavender buds. The main advantage of alba is long flowering. It blooms twice in one season: in early spring and towards the end of summer. Note that this variety is less frost-resistant than the previous one. Alba can be grown in the Rostov region, Crimea or Transcarpathia.
Wisteria floribunda (profusely flowering, many-flowered)
Abundantly flowering wisteria is a relatively small, woody vine. With proper care and timely pruning, it reaches 8-10 meters in height. Abundantly covered with large leaves, consisting of 11-19 dense ovate leaflets and reaching up to 40 centimeters in length. Interestingly, the stems of the plant twist strictly clockwise, their diameter at the base, as a rule, is 20-30 centimeters. Over the years, they become woody, and light green shoots are covered with dark gray bark. Flowering lasts from March to May, but with proper care can be repeated from July to August.
During this period, many lilac-blue hanging racemose inflorescences are formed on the tops of the wisteria branches, capable of reaching up to 60 centimeters in length. The fruits are stored on the vine throughout the winter.
Wisteria macrostachia (large cluster)
Wisteria macrostachia is native to North America. It is distinguished from previous varieties by dense, large inflorescences. The value of this species lies in the fact that it served as the basis for the creation of two frost-resistant varieties: Blue Moon and Clara Mac. The first variety has become the most widespread, so below we will consider it in more detail.
Wisteria macrostachia has large flowers compared to other speciesBlue moon frost-resistant wisteria
Blue moon wisteria is better than other hybrids for growing in the middle lane, as it has increased frost resistance, which allows it to overwinter well even at temperature drops down to -40°C.
This cultivar is a tree-like, deciduous, fast-growing vine whose stems grow up to 8 meters in length. It has compound, pinnate leaves, consisting of 7-9 small pointed leaflets. Cone-shaped inflorescences, painted in blue-lilac color, cover the plant abundantly. As a rule, this variety is used for vertical gardening, arbors, terraces, unsightly walls and buildings. If you create favorable conditions for wisteria, it will delight you with long and repeated flowering. As we have already noted, this species is characterized by increased frost resistance, therefore it can be grown even in cool latitudes, for example, in the Urals.
In early spring, young shoots are cut off, forming a beautiful crown, and in summer they are taken out to the balcony or placed in the garden. If caring for a flower seems too complicated for you, artificial wisteria can also become the decoration of your apartment. A small wisteria tree can be grown at home Wisteria bonsai
Wisteria bonsai has become very popular lately, so more and more flower growers are trying to master the art of its cultivation. Wisteria is great for creating bonsai, as it is plastic, fast growing, unpretentious in care and excellent decorative properties. Of course, it will take a lot of time and effort to grow a dwarf tree, but we assure you that the result will pleasantly surprise you. Wisteria bonsai looks very exotic, so it can become a real highlight of your interior.
Wisteria at home can be grown as a bonsaiWisteria fine
It is a vine with densely pubescent shoots that can reach up to 10 meters in length. It has compound leaves, which are also covered with tiny whitish-gray hairs.
Small flowers gather in beautiful hanging inflorescences. White brushes, densely covering the plant, can grow up to 50 centimeters in length. Flowering lasts from early May to June, and in July, bean-shaped fruits form on the wisteria. When planting, one should take into account the fact that with age, the stems of the vine become very woody and its weight increases significantly. We recommend that you immediately choose a full-fledged support for it, so that in the future you will not have problems with its weaving. When buying seedlings, keep in mind that full flowering will come only in the second or third year after planting. The fact is that this species adapts to a new place for a rather long time, so the first years after planting, one should not expect the appearance of many inflorescences.
Wisteria shrub
It is also known as American wisteria, as it is believed to be native to the United States. For many years, shrub wisteria has been successfully grown in Russia, Belarus and Ukraine.
The plant feels good both indoors and in the garden. Powerful creeper shoots can reach 15 meters in height, twist clockwise. The stems of mature plants become woody, which leads to an increase in the weight of the tree. Consider this feature when choosing a support. The flowering period falls on May-June. A distinctive feature of this species are relatively small inflorescences and the absence of a pleasant aroma in the buds. Bright leaves consist of 9-15 segments and open with flowers. At the end of flowering on the branches, fruits are formed in the form of pods with beans. The described variety is excellent for the formation of bonsai.
Japanese wisteria
It is somewhat more compact than Chinese wisteria and rarely grows higher than 8-9 meters. Despite this, the Japanese variety has rather large leaves (up to 40 centimeters) and bright brushes that abundantly cover the vine. The color of the flowers depends on the variety you purchased and can be snow-white, pink or pale purple.
In flower shops you can find varieties with double flowers or hybrids with variegated leaves. This species is distributed exclusively in the southern regions, so it is not able to withstand the effects of low temperatures. As for the decorative properties, the Japanese wisteria is also slightly inferior to the Chinese in this matter.
How to care for wisteria at home
If you decide to decorate your apartment or garden with this outlandish plant, you should definitely read the recommendations for caring for it.
Remember that the speed of growth and splendor of wisteria bloom depends on your efforts. In addition, the correct placement of the plant, timely watering, top dressing and pruning are the key to its health and resistance to various diseases.
Lighting
Wisteria is a long-liver, in nature there are trees that are 100-150 years old. It is valued for its lush flowering, which largely depends on the planting site.
Wisteria is a photophilous plant, so it is recommended to place it in well-lit places. At least 5-6 hours a day, the vine should be exposed to direct sunlight. Otherwise, the leaves will fade, and there will be much fewer inflorescences on the tree. The best choice would be to place the wisteria against the south wall of the house, where it will be protected from drafts, strong winds and will be able to get enough of the sun's rays.
In spring, the tree should be placed on a balcony or terrace. Some types of wisteria can withstand the high sub-zero temperatures of Russian conditions Humidity
From the beginning of flowering, it is necessary to regularly spray wisteria with warm settled water. Their frequency should be determined based on air temperature. From the beginning of autumn, the number of sprayings must be reduced, and in winter they should be completely stopped.
Watering
The plant requires regular watering, but does not tolerate excess moisture. Excessive moisture can cause the leaves to fall and the buds to fall off the wisteria. In early spring, when the herbaceous vine is preparing to bloom, it needs to be provided with frequent, plentiful watering. As soon as the buds form, it should be slightly reduced so as not to harm the wisteria.
The soil should be slightly moist, so water only as needed. In early October, the amount of watering should be minimized, since during this period the plant begins to prepare for wintering.
Top dressing
Liana is characterized by fairly fast growth: shoots can grow by 1-3 meters in one season. Naturally, this requires a significant amount of energy from the plant. Experts recommend regular fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers to stimulate abundant flowering and rapid growth of wisteria.
Fertilize wisteria with mineral fertilizers for faster growthFlowering
Depending on the variety, the flowering time of wisteria can last from 2 weeks to a month. Some hybrids bloom up to 2-3 times per season. During this period, the flower requires frequent spraying, moderate watering and frequent feeding. It is advisable to trim the vines from time to time, removing dried or faded inflorescences.
Also, take care of the support in advance, from which the racemose buds will beautifully descend.
How to prune wisteria for flowering
Pruning is carried out in two cases: to stimulate the formation of more inflorescences and to give the plant the desired shape. If you decide to arrange wisteria as a standard tree, then select one powerful stem and remove all the others. In the event that you use a vine for vertical gardening, strongly growing side shoots should also be cut. This is done so that the wisteria directs all its forces to the formation of buds. Take a good look at the vine, and then remove the young stems that stick out unaesthetically from the bush or cover the flower clusters. In addition, the formation of inflorescences on young shoots is possible only if their length does not exceed 30 centimeters. At the end of flowering, the plant should be given the desired shape, so cut the side shoots by 20-40 centimeters, and shorten them by another 15 centimeters in August.
How wisteria reproduces
If you are the proud owner of a delicate wisteria, you will no doubt want to propagate this beautiful plant. Standard trees will give your garden an exotic look, and lianas will allow you to hide the shortcomings of buildings, decorate gazebos or create an incredible “live” fence. There are several breeding methods, we will consider each of them in more detail so that you can choose the right one for yourself.
Stem and root cuttings
This is the simplest method that even beginner gardeners can easily do. In October or November, carefully cut the vine from the vine and divide into small cuttings with a pruner. Then put them in a container with a damp substrate and place them in a cool place, such as a basement.
In March, cuttings can be planted in a school or placed in a permanent place in the garden, covered with plastic bottles. This method is practically no different from grape propagation, but the success rate is only 50%. Winter cuttings are carried out from February to March. The prepared stems are carefully cut in half along the axis, and then the resulting halves are divided into small cuttings 5 centimeters in length.
It is important that each handle has one bud in the center.
Next, the seedlings are rooted in boxes with a substrate at a distance of 5 centimeters from each other and sprinkled with a small amount of sand. When placing the cuttings, make sure that the kidney is at the top. It is also possible to propagate by root cuttings, but this method requires a lot of time and effort. In March, the plant is dug up, the young roots are significantly cut off, and part of the large roots at the root collar is also cut. After all the manipulations, the tree is planted in its usual place.
The procedure stimulates the emergence of many new roots that can quickly form adventitious buds, from which stems soon appear. It is these roots that you will need for cuttings.
In autumn, wisteria is dug up again, inspected for the presence of young roots, and with the help of a pruner, a transverse incision is made near the root neck, removing them. The thickness of the root cuttings should be in the range of 5 to 15 centimeters, so you can immediately get rid of the thin tips of the roots and side roots. Treat seedlings with a fungicide to prevent disease. Next, they should be planted in a prepared, moistened substrate and placed in a warm, bright room. Within a month, you will be able to notice the appearance of the first stems, and in the fall the plant will be ready for planting in open ground.
Layering
This is perhaps the most effective method. It is carried out in late autumn, after the leaves have completely fallen off.
Examine the vine, select several powerful lower shoots, cut them slightly, bend them down, and then attach them to the ground with a special hairpin. The resulting layering must be sprinkled with earth in such a way that only their tops remain on the surface. In April, the stems must be ringed from the side of the mother plant. By autumn, the plant will take root, and you can transplant it to the desired area. If the cutting develops very slowly, then it is better to postpone the transplant until the next season.
Seeds
Experts do not recommend propagating wisteria by seeds, as some seedlings grown in this way do not bloom. Planting material is sown in special containers with a substrate in December or January. If you want to sow the seeds immediately in open ground, then do it in March or April. Wisteria is characterized by late germination, and seed germination lasts up to 3 years. The seeds planted in the container must be germinated at a temperature of 22-25ºС, regularly moistening the soil.
The first shoots will appear 3-4 weeks after planting, and starting from the 5th week they can be taken out in the sun. As soon as the seedlings form the first pair of true leaves, dive them into individual pots. From this point on, seedlings must be prepared for planting in open ground. Take them out to the balcony every day or move them to an unheated room. By April, young wisteria will be ready to move to their summer cottage.
How to plant wisteria
Now that you have learned about all the possible ways of reproduction, we should talk about planting a plant in open ground. Whether the wisteria will take root in a new place depends on the quality of the soil, the correct placement and planting.
Soil
Wisteria is not very demanding on soil, but prefers loose, fertile, well-drained soils. If you decide to grow it in a flowerpot, we recommend that you purchase a suitable substrate in a specialized flower shop.
It can also be prepared independently by mixing 4 parts of leafy soil with 1 part of turf and 1 part of sand. To protect the plant from pest infestation and the occurrence of fungal infections, first calcine the soil in the oven or treat it with fungicides.
Growing wisteria in a pot
Container growing involves the formation of a stem tree. It will serve as an unusual decor for a hall or a winter garden. Such a plant can be taken out to fresh air no earlier than June. Note that indoor species have a rather small root system, so it is better to give preference to small containers. In spacious flowerpots, the flower will rapidly increase its green mass, which will negatively affect flowering. In summer, it is better to keep wisteria outside, but in winter it should be moved to a room where the air temperature ranges from 8 to 10 ° C.
Please note that keeping in a well-heated room in winter will lead to the death of the tree. You can even send the plant to the basement, but from mid-January it needs to be gradually adapted to higher temperatures. By the beginning of March, wisteria is transferred to a room or to a glazed balcony.
Planting wisteria outdoors
In early spring, as soon as the last frost has passed, seedlings can be planted. Even if you have opted for frost-resistant wisteria, you should not expose a fragile plant to the risk of frostbite. Wisteria is a perennial, so immediately decide on its location. The selected area should be protected from drafts and be in the sun for at least 5-6 hours a day. Next, consider a step-by-step algorithm for planting a plant.
- Dig 60x60x50 cm holes.
- Apply complex mineral fertilizers to the soil. As a rule, it is enough to take 20-30 grams per 1 square meter, but it is better to use the mixture according to the dosages indicated on the package.
- Place the seedlings in the holes vertically and then fill them with earth so that the growing points or leaves are on the surface.
- Moisten the soil well, cover it with sand.
Don't worry if the wisteria doesn't grow at first. The fact is that it adapts to new conditions for quite a long time, so you should be patient and, of course, take care of the tree.
Care after planting
After planting, first mulch the young wisteria 10 cm above the neck. For these purposes, you can use peat or dry composted grass. Lay out the mulch in an even layer and do not remove it throughout the year. In summer, it will protect the root system from overheating, and in winter, on the contrary, it will help to avoid frostbite. By the way, in winter, you need to take care of shelter. This is especially true for species that do not tolerate exposure to low temperatures.
Your main task after planting the plant is to carry out timely watering, fertilizing and loosening the soil. If you carefully follow the recommendations, next year the seedling will delight you with bright shoots.
In such a situation, experts recommend transplanting the plant to another place or replacing the soil in the flowerpot, having previously enriched it with iron. For these purposes, you can use drugs such as Ferovit or Antichlorosis. To quickly bring the plant back to life, spray its stems and foliage, and do not pour the product under the root. Wisteria can be affected by pests such as caterpillars How poisonous is wisteria
When planting a plant, take into account the fact that all its parts are poisonous. But poisoning can only be caused if the fruits, flowers or leaves of wisteria are eaten. Such a meal can cause diarrhea, colic, dizziness and even vomiting. If you have decorated a suburban area with a liana, immediately explain to the children that beautiful flowers should not be eaten. Also make sure that your pets do not eat wisteria. Do not place wisteria near ponds with fish to eliminate the risk of their death. Otherwise, the plant is completely harmless. Of course, it will not be superfluous to play it safe and protect yourself, so wear rubber gloves when doing garden work.
