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How tall does nasturtium grow


How to Grow Nasturtiums in Your Garden

Tropaeolum spp.

Bright, bold, and cheerful, nasturtiums are among the easiest flowers to grow.

With only a hint of care and attention, these fast-spreading plants put on a vibrant summer-long show.

The intensely colored, trumpet-like flowers seem to float in a sea of green thanks to the ample supply of lush, rounded leaves.

Wonderfully low maintenance, they thrive in poor soil, perform better when they’re not fertilized, and quickly fill in difficult spots where other plants dare not tread.

They add sunny charm to beds, borders, hanging baskets, patio pots, and window boxes, and make a pretty weed break or an appealing, soft ground cover in areas with lean soil.

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Pollinators love them too, with butterflies and hummingbirds drawn to the flowers’ rich nectar.

Nasturtiums are also excellent garden companions and can be used to repel or trap pests as desired.

And they’re entirely edible! Most of the plant parts, including seeds, leaves, and flowers, have a refreshing, peppery flavor. And both the flowers and leaves make a gorgeous garnish on any summer plate.

Plus, they’re an attractive addition to floral arrangements, with long-lasting cut flowers and a light, spicy floral scent.

Highly useful, you’ll love their easy-care versatility throughout the garden!

Here’s all you need to know on how to plant nasturtiums.

What You’ll Learn

What Are Nasturtiums?

Tropaeolum is the only genus in the Tropaeolaceae family and contains about 80 species of herbaceous plants, both annuals and perennials, native to the Andes Mountains of Bolivia, Columbia, and Peru. Those grown in home gardens are commonly called nasturtiums.

Also known as Indian cress (from a time when the Americas were called the Indies), Mexican cress, or Peru cress, nasturtiums are fast growing, short-lived perennials in USDA Hardiness Zones 9-11, grown as annuals in other regions.

They feature five-petaled, trumpet-shaped flowers with a distinctive back spur on long, slender stalks over a sea of round, jade green leaves. Flower colors are deep and intense in tropical shades of cream, fuchsia, mahogany, orange, pink, red, white, and yellow.

Simple and easy to grow, plants reach a height of nine to 16 inches and can climb as much as 15 feet, depending on the species and their habit – which includes bush, cascading, and climbing forms.

For cultivated ornamentals, among the most popular species are T. majus, T. minus, T. peregrinum, and T. speciosum.

Named by Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus, their shape reminded him of a Roman trophy pole (or tropaeum), with the round leaves being reminiscent of military shields, and the deep red flowers looking to him like blood-stained helmets.

Tropaeolum should not be confused with the genus Nasturtium, which is best known for its flavorful cress plants such as N. microphyllum and N. officinale.

The name nasturtium is from the Latin phrase “nasus tortus,” which means twisted or twitchy nose – at one time, the pungent plants were used for the relief of nasal and chest congestion.

Both Tropaeolum and Nasturtium belong to the Brassicales order, but the only similarities they share are a light, spicy scent and bright, peppery taste common to mustard family members.

Cultivation and History

Seeds of T. minus were part of the conquistadors’ booty sent home to Spain in the 16th and 17th centuries.

T. minus.

The pretty, fragrant, and fast-growing plants were used both for their culinary and their ornamental offerings. A Dutch monk, Pater Beverning, introduced the taller T. majus in the 1700s, which quickly prompted their use throughout Europe.

Nasturtiums were introduced to North America in the early 1800s and, as in Europe, quickly grew in popularity thanks to their pretty flowers, fast growth, and climbing, camouflaging habit.

Propagation

Nasturtiums can be propagated from seed or via stem cuttings.

From Seed

Direct sowing seeds once the soil warms is the preferred propagation method, and it gives fast, reliable results.

However, if you must start seeds indoors, use peat, paper, or other biodegradable pots to avoid root shock – nasturtiums don’t like to be transplanted.

Here’s how to propagate from seed:

Nasturtiums have a thick seed coat. To aid germination, this should be nicked with a file or soaked for up to 12 hours in lukewarm water.

Photo by Lorna Kring.

Plant seeds promptly after soaking. If you need to wait a few hours to plant, remove seeds from the water and lay between layers of moist paper towel. 

Direct sow beginning one week after the last frost, when soil temperatures reach 50°F, and repeat at two-week intervals until early summer.

Plant seeds one-quarter to one-half inch deep and space six to 12 inches apart for small varieties, or up to 24 inches apart for the large ones.

Water thoroughly with a gentle shower and keep soil moist until seeds sprout.

The ideal soil temperature for germination is 55 to 65°F, and seeds sprout in seven to 14 days.

From Stem Cuttings

Stem cuttings for propagation are best taken in spring, when temperatures are mild.

Here’s how:

Transplant out to the garden in their biodegradable pots to avoid root disturbance.

How to Grow

Tropaeolum plants require a full sun location and well-draining soil of a poor, lean quality, with a light or sandy texture. They do best in a neutral soil with a pH of 6.1 to 7.8.

Plants can tolerate partial shade but will produce more abundant foliage than flowers. Soil that’s too rich also produces fast-growing greenery but few flowers.

And Tropaeolum doesn’t require fertilizer. Even when grown in containers, these plants don’t require the same amount of feeding, if any, as some other annuals.

Keep weeds under control with a two-inch mulch of leaf mold or straw, and water plants regularly.

Tougher than they look, established plants can handle periods of drought and high temperatures – although they can suffer leaf scorching in excessively hot afternoon sunshine.

If desired, feed container plants once in late spring with a balanced or low nitrogen fertilizer. At the same time, trim lightly to encourage new growth.

Growing Tips

 

The following tips will help you get the most from your nasturtium plants:

Pruning and Maintenance

The occasional grooming or deadheading of flowers helps to encourage new flowers to form.

If plants get a bit strung out or lanky, prune back by up to one half of their volume and they’ll quickly produce new growth.

In late spring or early summer, give plants a light trim to restore shape and encourage new flower production.

For climbing varieties, provide support like a trellis or pea netting. You may have to point the climbers in the right direction to get them started.

Grown in containers, they benefit from the occasional trim to maintain a tidy shape and to keep flower production high.

Should vigor start to decline in summer’s heat, cut plants back by as much as half. They’ll regrow with renewed vitality as soon as cooler evening temperatures return.

To collect seed for stock, allow seed pods to fully ripen on the vine. They will change in color from green to a light tan.

Allow seeds to release on their own, collecting them after they fall to the ground. Brush gently to remove any dirt.

Spread out on a plate or tray and allow to dry for another two to four weeks in a warm, dry environment. Seeds need to be completely dry before storing.

When seeds are dry and have darkened to brown, package them in glass jars or paper envelopes and store in a cool, dark cupboard.

After plants are felled by frost in cooler zones, remove the remaining debris to prevent overwintering of unfriendly pests.

Have a look at our guide to learn more about how to care for nasturtiums in winter.

Cultivars to Select

The following is a sample of the many varieties available for the home garden. Check out our roundup to learn about 15 of our favorite cultivars.

Alaska

The ‘Alaska’ mix of T. nanum is a dwarf variety with edible flowers in shades of cherry, cream, crimson, gold, and orange with pretty variegated foliage.

‘Alaska’

Plants reach a height of eight to 14 inches and add charm to beds, borders, containers, and window boxes.

Seed packets of varying sizes are available at True Leaf Market.

Empress of India

With a bewitching color combination of bright scarlet flowers amid deep blue-green leaves, T. minus ‘Empress of India’ is a handsome dwarf cultivar.

‘Empress of India’

A mesmerizing beauty for beds, borders, patio pots, and window boxes, plants grow six to 12 inches tall and have a similar spread.

Seed packets are available at Eden Brothers.

Jewel

The T. majus ‘Jewel’ mix is a fast growing variety with flower colors of canary, carmine, peach, and salmon on plants with a dwarfed habit.

‘Jewel’

The sparkling plants add color to beds, containers, or climbing short trellises. Growth is 12 to 18 inches tall with an 18- to 24-inch spread.

Seed packets are available at True Leaf Market.

Moonlight

T. lobbianum ‘Moonlight’ features long, trailing vines heavily adorned in creamy white flowers with chartreuse throats.

‘Moonlight’

A beautiful choice on fences or trellises, as a groundcover, and simply gorgeous when dripping heavily from hanging baskets, plants grow 10 to 12 inches tall with a spread of up to 78 inches.

Seed packets and sacks are available at Eden Brothers.

Spitfire

T. lobbianum ‘Spitfire’ has fiery orange-red flowers and soft, glaucous green leaves on long, sprawling stems.

An eye-popper when trained along foundation walls, up fences and trellises, or cascading from hanging baskets, plants grow 10 to 14 inches tall and reach up to 78 inches.

‘Spitfire’

You can find seeds in a variety of packet sizes available at Eden Brothers.

Managing Pests and Disease

Largely disease free, there are a few pests and problems to watch out for.

Pests

Aphids are small black, green, or reddish sapsuckers that spread disease as they feed on flowers, leaves, and stems.

Control aphids with a strong stream of water from a garden hose, targeting stems and the underside of flowers and leaves.

Cabbage loopers are green worms that eat the foliage and lay eggs on the plants.

Hand pick and remove them.

Leafhoppers are another small, sapsucking, and disease-spreading insect with strong rear legs used for jumping from leaf to leaf.

Control infestations of leafhoppers with an insecticidal soap.

Leafminers are small black or gray flies that bore into leaves to lay their eggs, causing bleached, serpentine tracks on leaves as they grow.

Remove and destroy infected leaves and spray with neem oil to control adults. Keep beds clean of debris and use fresh dirt next spring as flies can overwinter in the soil.

Slugs and snails dine on foliage, leaving irregular notches or eating entire leaves. Handpick slugs and snails and dispose of them.

Learn more about identifying and controlling nasturtium pests here.

Disease

Aster yellows is caused by a minute organism known as a phytoplasma and causes stunting or witches’ brooms – excessive leafy growth on green, deformed flower petals. Leafhoppers spread this bacteria-like pathogen.

Remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Control leafhopper populations and keep the weeds down, which may also host the disease.

Caused by Plasmodiophora brassicae, clubroot is a fungal disease that occurs most frequently in acidic soil or locations where Brassica species have previously grown.

Leaves can be stunted or wilt, and affected roots are heavily clubbed or distorted.

Remove and destroy plants if you see signs of this disease. Add lime to acidic soils and avoid replanting in the same location.

A variety of bacterial pathogens may infect plants with mosaic virus. It causes light to dark green spotting or mottling on the leaves, and malformed or splotchy flowers. Mosaic viruses are transmitted by aphids and leafhoppers.

Remove and destroy infected plants and treat for pest infestations as needed.

Wilt, caused by Pseudomonas solanacearum, is a bacterial infection that lives in plant debris and invades roots from the soil.

Plants yellow and wilt before dying, and can develop black streaks or an oozing slime at cut sites.

Remove and destroy infected plants, and disinfect any tools that have come in contact with plants in a 10 percent bleach to water solution. Also, avoid overhead watering – this bacteria is easily spread by splashing water. Ensure plant beds are cleaned of debris before winter.

Find tips on identifying and treating nasturtium plant diseases here.

Harvesting

To harvest for kitchen use, clip leaves and flowers with a clean knife or scissors at any time throughout the growing season.

Rinse gently under cool running water and spin dry in a salad spinner, or pat dry with a clean dish towel.

For pickled seed pods, harvest seeds while they are still green and tender.

Preserving

The immature green pods are delicious when pickled. Known as “poor man’s capers,” they make an excellent substitute for the real thing.

A simple way to do this is to collect the pods, wash them gently to remove any dirt, and place them in a jar.

Measure out enough white vinegar to cover the pods, and place it in a saucepan with a teaspoon of salt for every cup of vinegar used, and a bay leaf.

Bring to the boil, then remove from heat and pour over the pods, ensuring that the vinegar and salt solution covers them completely.

Seal the jar, allow it to cool, and refrigerate. After two to three months they will be ready to use.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

For an appetizer, stuff flowers with softened cream cheese or goat cheese mixed with fresh herbs.

Use whole or shredded leaves and flowers to add piquant flavor to salads and pasta.

Flower buds make a bright and tasty addition to stir fries.

Minced leaves and flowers make a delicious, tangy compound butter for fresh bread, seafood, steak, and vegetables.

And as a plate garnish, the bold beauty of the flowers is unsurpassed!

Here’s a friendly reminder: when selecting edible flowers, the use of clean, organic gardening practices delivers the healthiest results.

We have more tips on harvesting and using nasturtium flowers and plants here.

Best Ornamental Uses

The climbing or trailing varieties of Tropaeolum give outstanding vertical growth and terrific color when scaling up arbors, fences, and trellises, or pouring down from hanging baskets and window boxes.

Compact varieties add flair to raised beds and borders, and make spectacular spillers in containers, or tumbling over the edges of low foundation walls and rock garden pockets.

With fast-growing, ample foliage, nasturtiums make a decorative and effective scrambling ground cover for concealing stumps or ugly spots, and serve as a weed barrier to protect against encroachment of the garden or lawn.

And the generous foliage works well as a filler or seasonal screen in difficult areas, such as under decks or stairs, poor soil locations, and shady spots.

As companion plants, nasturtiums make a good trap crop for aphids. When used as a trap, plant near the crops you want to protect, then hose off aphids as needed.

They also deter many caterpillars, cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and whiteflies, and attract predatory insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps. Tropaeolum plants may be used as a companion for Brassicas, cucumbers, melons, radishes, and tomatoes.

And because of their many outstanding characteristics and quick growth, nasturtiums are always a good choice for children’s gardens.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:Herbaceous flowering perennial or annualFlower / Foliage Color:Cream, fuchsia, mahogany, orange, pink, red, white, yellow/ green, variegated
Native to:Andes Mountains of Bolivia, Columbia, and PeruTolerance:Part shade, salt spray
Hardiness (USDA Zone):9-11Soil Type:Lean and light or sandy
Bloom Time:Spring-summerSoil pH:6.1-7.8
Exposure:Full sun to part shadeSoil Drainage:Well-draining
Spacing:12-24 inchesAttracts:Butterflies, hummingbirds
Planting Depth:1/4-1/2 inch (seeds)Companion Planting:Brassicas, cucumbers, melons, radishes, tomatoes
Height:12-18 inchesUses:Arbors, beds, borders, containers, hanging baskets, window boxes, seasonal filler, ground cover, screen
Spread:12-78 inchesFamily:Tropaeolaceae
Water Needs:ModerateGenus:Tropaeolum
MaintenanceLowSpecies:Majus, minus, peregrinum, speciosum
Common Pests:Aphids, cabbage loopers, leafhoppers, leaf miners, slugs, snailsCommon Diseases:Aster yellows, clubroot, mosaic virus, wilt

Pretty and Versatile

It’s easy to understand why the pretty and versatile nasturtium is so highly valued in the garden.

Simple to grow from seed, these no-fuss annuals provide dazzling color from spring until frost in a variety of settings. In addition to readily self-seeding, they may be grown as perennials in warmer zones as well.

Provide them with a sunny location for the best flower production, give them excellent drainage, and water when dry. But ease up on the fertilizer! Unless you want to use the foliage as a fill-in plant for tricky spots, no feeding is required.

How do you folks like to use nasturtiums? Shoot us a line in the comments below!

And for more information on growing edible flowers, check out these guides next:

How to Grow Nasturtiums - Urban Garden Gal

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Tips for growing and caring for Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums are easy-to-grow annuals that have beautiful, bright edible flowers.

They can be grown directly in the garden or planted in containers, hanging pots or window baskets.

This post about growing Nasturtiums contains affiliate links. Please read the disclosure for more info.

Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) are native to Peru and have pale green, round leaves with long stems.

They have bright orange, yellow and red flowers and bloom in summer and fall.

There are about 80 different species of Nasturtium including dwarf, trailing and bushy types. [1]

Nasturtiums are popular annual flowers because they’re edible, fast-growing and attract beneficial insects including butterflies and lacewings  to the garden. They’re also a great companion plant.

HOW TO GROW NASTURTIUMS

Best Soil for Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums thrive in poor quality soil and produce more flowers in poor soil than in rich, well-fertilized soil.

How much sunlight do Nasturtiums need?

Nasturtiums prefer to grow in a position that is in full sun or partially shaded in the afternoon. It hot areas they can become scorched in very hot afternoon sun.

How long do Nasturtiums take to mature?

Nasturtium plants begin to bloom in 5 to 7 weeks and will flower from summer to fall.

RELATED: 10 Fast Growing Flowers

How tall do Nasturtiums grow?

There are many different varieties of Nasturtium that range from small dwarf plants that grow only 6 inches (15 cm) high to climbing varieties that can grow 8 to 10 feet (2.3 to 3 m).

How much space is needed between plants?

Each plant should have at least 10 inches (25 cm) space in all directions.

Growing Nasturtiums from Seeds

Nasturtium seeds are fairly large and can be planted directly in the garden after the last frost of the season. They sprout best in warm soil.

In colder areas, or to get an earlier start, you can plant the seeds in containers indoors and transplant them to the garden in spring.

Nasturtium seeds are usually planted 1/2 inch (about 1. 5 cm) deep and about 10 inches (25 cm) apart.

It usually takes about 10 to 14 days for nasturtium seeds to germinate.

Soaking seeds in water overnight prior to planting may speed up germination.

RELATED: 10 Easy Annuals To Grow From Seed

Nasturtium varieties to try in your Garden

Growing Nasturtiums from Cuttings

Nasturtiums can be propagated from cuttings, but the most common method is from seed.

To propagate nasturtiums from cuttings, take a 3 inch (7cm) section of stem and trim off the lower leaves.

Place the cuttings in moist perlite or sand and roots will form in two to three weeks.

Watering Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums need to be watered regularly throughout the growing season, especially in hot weather, but be careful not to over-water your plants.

Let the soil dry out a bit between watering.

Fertilizer for Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums flower better in poor soil, so they don’t need fertilizer.

Pests & Diseases

Nasturtiums can be affected by aphids, slugs and caterpillars.

Pruning Nasturtiums

If the plants get a bit untidy or overgrown, prune them back to a manageable size and they’ll quickly produce new growth.

Regular deadheading of flowers will also prolong blooming.

Companion Planting

Nasturtiums spread out over the ground, so they help to suppress weeds and shade the soil when grown near taller plants like tomatoes, sweet corn and sunflowers. [2]

They attract beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings to the garden and when planted in a vegetable garden they can be used as an aphid trap so that the vegetable plants won’t be affected by aphids.

Harvesting and Using Nasturtiums

The best time to pick Nasturtium flowers is in the morning. The flowers and leaves can be used in salads or as a garnish or decoration.

Nasturtiums have a peppery taste, similar to watercress.

The seeds can be left to dry out on the vine and stored in an envelope to replant the next year.

Common Questions

Can Nasturtiums Grow in the Shade?

Nasturtiums are best grown in full sun where they produce the most flowers, but they will also grow in partial shade.

Are Nasturtiums Frost Tolerant?

Nasturtiums aren’t frost tolerant so it’s best to make sure the risk of frost has passed before planting seeds outdoors.

Where Do Nasturtiums Grow?

Nasturtiums grow well in most areas, except for cold, mountainous areas.

Final Thoughts

Nasturtiums are one of the easiest annual flowers for beginner gardeners and kids to grow.

You can eat the entire plant and they’re great for hanging pots, window boxes and ground covers.

Nasturtiums don’t need much ongoing care so it won’t matter if they’re a bit neglected.

Here’s a quick video about growing Nasturtium flowers that I think you’ll enjoy.

RELATED ARTICLES

Have you tried growing Nasturtiums in your garden? Let me know in the comments below.

Are you on Pinterest? I have boards dedicated to Flower Gardening and Gardening Tips that you may enjoy. You can also find me on Facebook.

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outdoor planting and care, growing from seeds

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum), also called capuchin, is a member of the Nasturtium family. This genus is represented by herbaceous plants, it unites approximately 90 species. The birthplace of nasturtium is Central and South America, however, it has been grown in the middle latitudes for a very long time, and it is quite popular. This plant is unpretentious to growing conditions, and it also has popular taste characteristics and medicinal properties. And also during flowering, nasturtium looks extremely impressive, and can become an ornament to any garden plot. This plant was brought to Russia from Holland, and at first they began to call it capuchin there, which is associated with the shape of the flower, which looks like a hood. However, over time, this plant began to be called nasturtium more and more. The scientific Latin name "Tropaeolum" was given to the flower by Carl Linnaeus. 9Ol000

  • 4 Nasturtium care
    • 4.1 Propagation of nasturtium
    • 4.2 Diseases and pests
  • 5 How to harvest nasturtium seeds
  • 6 Nasturtium after flowering
  • 7 Types and varieties of nasturtium with photos and names
    • 7.1 Nastemic nam, or Canar
    • 7.2 Nastemic large
    • 7.3 Cultural namedhift
    • 7.4 Nastation Malaya
    • 9000 7.5 Nastemic shield 9000 9000 9000 9000 8 useful properties of nasturtium

    features of nasturtium

    Nasturtium is a perennial or annual plant. Often it is a liana with succulent shoots, semi-shrubs are less common. Often the leaf blades are alternately lobed, entire, thyroid or palmately divided. Fragrant flowers can be double, single or semi-double. They are zygamorphic, have an irregular shape, axillary and bisexual. They include 5 petals (in some cases more), the same number of sepals, as well as a funnel-shaped tube, inside which is nectar. The flowers are usually yellow or red. The composition of the fruit includes 3 kidney-shaped wrinkled lobes, and in each of them seeds of a rounded kidney-shaped form ripen.

    The shoots and flowers of this plant have medicinal properties, and they are also used in the preparation of various culinary dishes.

    Nasturtium is an undemanding plant for gardens and balconies. Planting and care for lush blooms


    Watch this video on YouTube

    Growing nasturtium from seeds

    Sowing

    Nasturtiums are propagated using a generative (seed) method. It is relatively easy to grow such a plant from seed. Nasturtium seeds are quite large. They are sown directly in open soil in the second half of May, while the return frosts should be left behind. Make shallow (about 20 mm) holes, between which a distance of 0. 25–0.3 m should be observed. Seeds are sown in a nested way, while 3 or 4 seeds should be placed in 1 hole. If it is still cold at night, then the area with crops is covered with any covering material (for example, plastic wrap). Watering crops should only be tepid water. The first seedlings will appear after 7-15 days.

    Seedling care

    You can also grow nasturtium through seedlings, in which case flowering will occur earlier than when sowing seeds in open soil. For sowing, you need to use cups with a retractable bottom or peat. Seeds are sown in April or May, they are buried in the substrate by 20 mm, while 2 or 3 seeds are placed in 1 cup. Then the cups are moved to a cool (from 20 to 22 degrees) place. The first seedlings will appear after about 15 days. The plants that have appeared should be provided with good lighting so that they do not stretch out, otherwise, after transplanting into open ground, they will hurt for a long time and not bloom. Since the root system of nasturtium is rather fragile and weak, and the leaf surface is large, the seedlings are not picked, and the seedlings are planted in open soil right in the cups, without violating the integrity of the earthy coma.

    Nasturtium: cultivation and care


    Watch this video on YouTube

    Planting nasturtium in open ground

    What time to plant

    Nasturtium seedlings are planted in open ground in the first decade of June. For landing, you need to choose a sunny area that has reliable protection from cold winds. If this flower culture is grown in a shaded place, then its flowering will not be so lush and spectacular. The soil needs a light, nutritious, slightly acidic, and also well-drained. If there is too much organic matter in the soil, then the greenery of the bushes will grow very intensively, but they will not bloom. When growing nasturtium on excessively depleted soil, its leaf plates become small, which is why the shoots look bare, and flowering loses its high decorative effect. If you choose stagnant, moist soil for planting, the plant will rot.

    Planting features

    As mentioned above, seedlings are planted in open soil in the first days of June. The seedlings are planted together with peat cups or with a clod of earth, and you should be extremely careful, because the root system of the seedling can be easily injured. The distance between the plants directly depends on their variety and type, and it can vary from 0.2 to 0.4 m. At first, the planted plants will need to be covered for the night. Flowering will begin after 4-6 weeks.

    Caring for nasturtiums

    Caring for nasturtiums is very easy. They need to be watered and weeded in a timely manner. If, after the seedlings were planted on the site, you covered its surface with a layer of mulch, then this will avoid a grueling fight against weeds. At the very beginning of active growth, special attention should be paid to systematic watering, which should be plentiful. After flowering begins, watering should be arranged only when the soil dries out, but if it is constantly moistened, this will negatively affect the flowering splendor, but greenery will grow violently. It is also very important to cut off the flowers that have begun to fade in time. If you want to collect seeds, then leave only a few ovaries for this.

    Before flowering, this plant is regularly fertilized with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer with a frequency of 1 time in 7 days. This crop is not fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

    Propagating nasturtium

    See above for how to grow nasturtium from seeds. They also use cuttings for propagation. For rooting cuttings, well-moistened sand or water is used. This method of propagation is usually used for terry varieties or for very rare ones, the seeds of which are difficult to buy. When propagated by cuttings, all varietal and species characteristics of the mother plant are completely preserved.

    Diseases and pests

    This plant is very beautiful and incredibly useful. In addition, it repels whiteflies, cabbage, Colorado potato beetles, aphids and other pests.

    However, nasturtium can still get sick. For example, it is affected by bacterial wilt. In the affected specimen, the lower leaf plates first weaken, and then the entire bush begins to fade. And it can also get sick with gray rot, due to which dry spots of brown color form on the leaf plates. Also on the surface of the foliage you can sometimes see variegated mosaic stains or black or brown spots of rust. If symptoms of these diseases occur, the affected bushes must be dug up and destroyed. At the same time, the remaining healthy flowers are sprayed with a special agent that can destroy pathogens.

    Undemanding flowers for the garden Nasturtium. Garden World


    Watch this video on YouTube

    How to collect nasturtium seeds

    If you want to feel like a breeder, then you will need to collect nasturtium seeds from your site. Seed ripening is observed at the same time that flower wilt occurs. Only foreign nasturtium seeds do not have time to ripen before frost, and this must be taken into account. Ripe seeds change their green color to whitish, they are easily separated from the pedicel and fall to the surface of the site. In this regard, it is not necessary to delay the collection of seeds, because they can crumble. For storage, the seeds are placed in cardboard boxes. The collected immature seeds of foreign nasturtium should be ripened at room conditions.

    Nasturtium after flowering

    When flowering ends, the bushes should be watered less and less each time until they stop completely. In mid-latitudes, as a rule, this plant is cultivated as an annual, therefore, in autumn, it should be treated as an annual. More precisely, clear the area of ​​plant debris that must be destroyed. The site itself should be dug up. Don't forget to collect seeds first if needed.

    Types and varieties of nasturtium with photos and names

    Naturally growing nasturtium is a perennial plant. However, in mid-latitude gardens, this flower can only be grown as an annual, because it is not able to survive the winter in the open field. The most popular among gardeners are cultivated types of nasturtium, which will be described below.

    Nasturtium foreign, or Canarian

    This creeper is native to South America. The length of greenish shoots can reach 3.5 m, while they relatively quickly braid trellises and arbors. Flowering begins in the middle of the summer period, and ends with the onset of frost. Small flowers of rich yellow color have corrugated petals, as well as green spurs. Small leaf plates can be five- or seven-parted. In middle latitudes, the seeds do not have time to ripen.

    Large nasturtium

    Fragile bare shoots are strongly branched, they can be about 2.5 m long. and ends with the onset of frost in the fall. This species reproduces well by self-seeding. Seeds remain viable for 4 years. Large asymmetrical leaf blades are rounded and shield-shaped. Their front surface is greenish, and the wrong side is gray-gray. They have long petioles, and the leaves are 80 mm across. This species has many varieties, among which there are also compact bush forms, for example:

    • King Theodore - rich red flowers;
    • Peach Melba - there are red spots in the center of creamy flowers;
    • Salmon Baby - semi-double flowers have a salmon color;
    • Ladybug - there are burgundy spots in the middle of the apricot flower.

    Cultural nasturtium

    This species combined hybrids of large nasturtium and shield nasturtium. Shoots are densely leafy. Thyroid leaf plates have a purple or green color. In this species, varieties differ in height and shape:

    • compact varieties up to half a meter tall;
    • creeping varieties with stems up to 4 meters long;
    • dwarf varieties that do not exceed 15–20 centimeters in height.

    Varieties:

    • Gleming Mahagani - bush height about 37 centimeters, double red flowers;
    • Golden Globe - a spherical bush reaches a height of 0. 25 m, and a width of 0.4 m, leaf plates are round greenish, double large (about 65 mm in diameter) flowers are painted in yellow-golden color;
    • Moonlight - the length of the shoots of this climbing plant is about 2 m, the color of the flowers is yellowish.

    Small nasturtium

    Thin branched furrowed shoots are about 0.35 m high. Small shield-like leaf blades are rounded, petioles are thin and very long. Yellow small flowers in diameter reach 30 mm, there are dark spots on the surface, 3 upper petals are velvety and have a pointed edge, curved spurs are cylindrical in shape. Flowering is observed in June-October. Varieties:

    • Cherry rose - bush height about 0.3 m, double flowers have a rich red color;
    • Black velvet - a bush reaches a height of 0.3 m, the color of simple flowers is maroon, almost black, they reach 60 mm in diameter, this variety is sometimes called "Black Lady".

    Shield-bearing nasturtium

    This species is represented by creeping shrubs. Fragile juicy stems are painted in dark green color, they reach 4 meters in length. Thyroid leaf plates have a dark green color. The color of the flowers is deep dark red. Flowering is observed in June-October, the seeds have time to ripen. The most popular variety is Lucifer: the height of erect bushes is about 0.25 m, the color of the stems is greenish, large leaf plates of dark green color have a dark red tint. Simple orange-red flowers in diameter reach 60 mm.

    Also decorative types of nasturtium are azure, ciliate, many-leaved, beautiful, tricolor, but they are rarely grown in middle latitudes.

    Useful properties of nasturtium

    Very beautiful nasturtium flower has medicinal properties and can also be eaten. Flowers and foliage of young plants are added to soups, salads and sandwiches, and various dishes are also decorated with them. Pickled fruits of such a flower taste similar to expensive capers. If the seeds are well dried and ground, you will get a spicy seasoning that can be used instead of black pepper. By the way, this seasoning was widely used during the Second World War. You can eat all parts of this culture, but not the roots.

    The fact that nasturtium has healing properties has long been known. It is used to stimulate hair growth, in the treatment of skin rashes, as well as beriberi, anemia and nephrolithiasis. It is also recommended to use nasturtium for scurvy, because its content of vitamin C is quite high (10 times more than in lettuce leaves).

    In addition, this plant contains substances with antibacterial properties, namely: provitamin A and phytoncides. Dishes that are prepared using this plant are included in the therapeutic diet for atherosclerosis, as well as for metabolic disorders in elderly people. The composition of the rhizomes includes substances that can reduce the level of testosterone in the blood.

    Scientists have proven that this plant has the following healing properties: laxative, diuretic, antibiotic, uroseptic, anti-inflammatory, diuretic, antiseptic, antiscorbutic and expectorant.

    In case of an overdose of nasturtium, irritation of the mucous membrane of the gastrointestinal tract is observed.

    planting and care in the open field, photo, properties

    Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/en/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19Category: Garden Plants Returned: Last amendments:

    Content

    • Listen Article
    • Planting and Care for Street
    • Botanical Description Growing seedlings
  • Planting nasturtiums
    • When to plant
    • How to plant
  • Nasturtium care
    • Conditions of cultivation
    • PROTEMITION OF NATURITION
    • Pests and diseases
  • How to collect seeds
  • NAMATIONS after flowering
    • NATURITMENT OF FIRE -ROOM (Tropaeolum Peregrinutn)
      • 9000 (Tropaeolum cultorum)
    • Lesser nasturtium (Tropaeolum minus)
    • Shield nasturtium (Tropaeolum peltophorum)
  • Medicinal properties of nasturtium
  • Literature
  • Useful links
  • Comments

    • Nasturtium is a common plant in our gardens, like marigolds or tulips. The peak of its popularity has long passed, but the habit of growing nasturtium was passed on to us from our grandmothers and mothers.

    Why is nasturtium so good? She is beautiful, useful, completely unpretentious to the conditions and does not require special care.

    Today, more than twenty species and many varieties of this cute, useful and edible plant are grown in horticultural crops. From our article you will learn:

    Listen to article

    Planting and caring for nasturtium

    Read more about growing nasturtium below.0 kinds. The nasturtium plant is native to South and Central America, but it also settled in our latitudes for a long time and reliably, as it is distinguished by unpretentiousness, sought-after healing properties and taste characteristics. The main thing is that the nasturtium flower with its long flowering is able to decorate any, even the most sophisticated garden. The capuchin flower brought from Holland to Russia was called so because of the shape of the flower, resembling a hood, but gradually the plant began to be called nasturtium. The official Latin name Tropaeolum was given to nasturtium by Carl Linnaeus.

    Botanical description

    Nasturtiums, both annuals and perennials, are often vines with succulent stems, and sometimes subshrubs. The leaves are most often lobed, alternate, entire, palmate or thyroid. Flowers - simple, double and semi-double - irregularly shaped, fragrant, zygomorphic, bisexual, axillary, consisting of five (sometimes more) petals, the same number of sepals, a funnel-shaped tube with nectar.

    The color of the flowers is usually red or yellow. The fruit consists of three wrinkled kidney-shaped lobes, in each of which rounded kidney-shaped seeds ripen. Both flowers and stems have healing properties, and are also of interest to culinary specialists.

    Growing nasturtium from seeds

    Sowing seeds

    Nasturtium is propagated by seed, and even a beginner can handle it. Large nasturtium seeds are sown directly into the open ground in mid or late May, when the last frosts have passed. In holes up to two centimeters deep, located at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other, nasturtium seeds are placed in a nested way - 3-4 pieces per hole. If there is a possibility of nighttime drops in temperature, cover the planted area with plastic wrap or other covering material and use only warm water for irrigation. Seedlings will appear in a week or two.

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    On the photo: Nasturtium seeds

    Growing seedlings

    Nasturtiums are also grown in seedlings, which allows you to achieve earlier flowering than in the case of sowing seeds directly into the ground. To do this, use peat cups or cups with a retractable bottom, in which in April-May seeds are sown 2-3 pieces to a depth of 2 cm. The temperature in the room with seedlings should be 20-22 ºC. Shoots will appear in a couple of weeks.

    Make sure that the seedlings have enough light, because the lack of light causes them to stretch, and after landing on the site, they get sick for a long time and do not bloom.

    The root system of nasturtium is weak, and the leaf surface is quite large, therefore, in order not to injure the roots, the seedlings are not swooped down and transplanted into the soil together with an earthen clod, right in a cup.

    Planting nasturtium

    When to plant

    Planting nasturtium is carried out in the first decade of June. Select a well-lit and wind-sheltered spot in your garden, as nasturtium flowers do not bloom as profusely in the shade as they do in good light. The soil on the site should be slightly acidic, with good drainage, light and fertile. On soils rich in organic matter, plants turn lush green, but they do not want to bloom, on soils that are too poor, nasturtium blooms are not so beautiful, the leaves are small, and the stems look bare. Nasturtium rots in stagnant wet soils.

    In the photo: Flowering of yellow nasturtium

    How to plant

    So, it's the beginning of June, it's time to plant seedlings in open ground. Planting seedlings is carried out together with an earthen clod, and if you sowed seeds in peat pots, then right along with the pots to avoid breakage or breakage of fragile roots. Depending on the variety of nasturtium, the distance between specimens should be 20-40 cm. At first, it is advisable to cover the planting for the night. Nasturtiums will bloom in a month and a half.

    Nasturtium care

    Growing conditions

    Nasturtium care consists of weeding the area and watering the plants. If you mulch the bed after planting, then you will not have to fight weeds.

    At the very beginning of growth, regular and plentiful watering is very important , when the nasturtium blooms, the plot should be watered only when the soil dries up: if the soil is wet all the time, the plant will be lush green, but there will be few flowers.

    Dead flowers should be removed in a timely manner, unless you need seeds, but only a few ovaries are enough to harvest seeds for next year.

    Feed the nasturtium weekly with potash-phosphorus fertilizer until it blooms. Nasturtium nitrogen fertilizers will not be needed.

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    Propagation of nasturtium

    In addition to the seed method, the vegetative method is also used to propagate nasturtium - cuttings . Cuttings are rooted in wet sand or water. Most often, terry varieties of nasturtiums or new ones are propagated in this way, the seeds of which are difficult to find in flower shops. The vegetative method allows you to save species and varietal characteristics during reproduction.

    Pests and diseases

    Nasturtium is not only beautiful, but also very useful. In addition, it somehow inspires fear in Colorado beetles, whiteflies, aphids, cabbage bugs and other insect pests.

    But diseases of nasturtium sometimes affect, first of all, such as bacterial wilt , which is expressed in the weakening of the lower leaves, and then withering of the whole plant.

    Or gray rot showing dry brown spots on the leaves. From time to time, brown or black rust spots or variegated mosaic stains appear on the leaves of nasturtium. In case of damage by these diseases, infected specimens must be removed and burned, and healthy plants should be treated with special preparations that destroy pathogens.

    Pictured: Growing red nasturtium

    How to collect seeds

    If you feel like breeding, you can collect nasturtium seeds yourself. As the flowers wither, the seeds mature. It must be remembered that the seeds of all types of nasturtium have time to ripen before frost, the only exception is foreign nasturtium. When the seeds ripen, they turn from green to whitish and, easily separated from the pedicel, fall to the ground.

    Therefore, be careful and try to collect them before they crumble.

    Store mature seeds in cardboard boxes. Foreign nasturtium seeds are harvested unripe and ripened at home.

    In the photo: Large orange flowers of nasturtium

    Nasturtium after flowering

    After the nasturtium has faded, watering is gradually reduced until it stops completely. Since nasturtium is grown mainly as an annual plant, then with the onset of autumn it is necessary to deal with it as with an annual, namely: dig up the site, burn the tops, after collecting the seeds, if necessary.

    Species and varieties

    In the wild, at home, perennial nasturtium grows, but in our gardens the tropical beauty cannot remain in the ground for the winter, therefore it is grown as an annual. Of the cultivated species of nasturtium, the following are most often grown:

    Foreign nasturtium (Tropaeolum peregrinutn)

    Or Canarian nasturtium - a liana from South America, the light green stems of which reach a length of 350 cm and very quickly braid arbors and trellises. It blooms from mid-summer to frost with bright yellow small flowers with corrugated petals and green spurs. The leaves are medium-sized, five- or seven-parted. Seeds in the middle lane do not have time to ripen naturally.

    In the photo: Large nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

    Large nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

    Very branched, bare, fragile stems reach a length of 250 cm. If the variety is erect, and not creeping, then the stem grows up to 70 cm in height . Blooms profusely from June to autumn frosts. It reproduces well by self-sowing, the seeds do not lose their germination capacity up to 4 years. The leaves are asymmetrical, large, round, thyroid, the surface is light green, the underside is gray-gray, the petioles are long, diameter is about 8 cm. The species is represented by dozens of varieties, including compact bush forms:

    Cultivated nasturtium (Tropaeolum cultorum)

    Combines hybrids of shield-bearing nasturtium and large nasturtium, densely leafy stems, green or purple leaves, thyroid-like. Varieties of this species differ in shape and height: there are compact varieties of nasturtium (up to 50 cm tall), there are creeping ones, with shoots up to 4 m long, or dwarf ones - 15-20 cm tall. Varieties:

    In the photo: Large nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

    Small nasturtium (Tropaeolum minus)

    Branched, furrowed thin stems up to 35 cm tall, leaves of small nasturtium are rounded, small, thyroid, petioles are very long and thin. Small flowers up to 3 cm in diameter, yellow with dark spots, three upper velvety petals are pointed along the edge, spurs are cylindrical, curved. This type of nasturtium blooms from June to October. Varieties:

    Shield nasturtium (Tropaeolum peltophorum)

    It is a creeping subshrub with dark green, succulent and brittle shoots up to 4 m long. Leaves are thyroid, dark green. Juicy dark red flowers. It blooms from June to October, the seeds ripen perfectly. Most common variety:

    In the photo: Lilac nasturtium

    Among other types of nasturtium, which are distinguished by their decorative effect, one can name azure, ciliate, multi-leaved, beautiful, tricolor and others, but, unfortunately, few can boast of the experience of growing these species in our climatic zone.

    Medicinal properties of nasturtium

    Nasturtium is not only beautiful, but also edible and healing. The leaves and flowers of young plants are used as ingredients in salads, garnished with dishes, and added to sandwiches and soups. Pickled nasturtium fruits taste like expensive capers. And dried and ground seeds can be used as a seasoning instead of black pepper, in any case, this was done during the Second World War. All parts of the plant are edible except for the roots.

    In the photo: A beautiful flower of nasturtium

    The healing properties of nasturtium have also been known for a long time. It treats skin rashes, stimulates hair growth, it helps with anemia, beriberi, kidney stone disease. The plant has proven itself well as a means of combating scurvy, since the amount of vitamin C in it is ten times greater than in lettuce leaves. In addition, nasturtium contains substances that successfully fight microbes - provitamin A and phytoncides.

    Dishes prepared from nasturtium are included in the therapeutic diet for metabolic disorders in the elderly, with atherosclerosis. The rhizomes of tuberous nasturtium species contain substances that lower the level of testosterone in the blood, which is necessary in certain cases. Modern science has established that nasturtium has such valuable properties for medicine: anti-inflammatory, laxative, diuretic, diuretic, antiseptic, antibiotic, antiscorbutic, uroseptic, expectorant.

    However, you should be aware that an overdose of nasturtium provokes irritation of the mucosa of the gastrointestinal tract.

    Literature

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