Wisteria growing conditions
Tips for growing Wisteria | Greenwood Nursery
These tips for growing wisteria will help you keep your wisteria vines looking great.
Wisteria are vigorous, twining vines with wide landscape usage where space permits and gardeners are committed to keeping them in bounds. Among their attributes are hardiness, vigor, longevity and the ability to climb high. They are greatly valued for their large, pendulous flower clusters that occur in the spring. Flowers are pea-like and may be white, pink, lilac-blue, bluish-purple or purple in color. The fruit is a long, green flattened pod that is not particularly ornamental. The plant climbs by means of twining stems and has alternate, pinnately compound leaves. Older, established plants may have a twisted, woody trunk several inches in diameter.
Site Requirements
In order to bloom well, wisteria require full sun (six or more hours of direct sun per day) and a deep, moderately fertile, moist soil that does not dry out excessively. They will adapt to most soils, though they prefer a neutral to slightly acid soil pH of 6.0-7.0 for best results. Some type of support will be necessary as mature plants can be quite heavy.
Culture Soil Preparation
Good site preparation will help ensure plant establishment. Begin with a soil test to determine if the soil pH or the phosphorus level need correction. If so, make additions of materials as you are preparing the soil. Prepare soil in an area two to three feet in diameter and 18 to 24 inches deep. Mix into the native soil either peat moss, compost or well rotted manure, one-third by volume, to improve soil aeration and drainage.
Plant Support
Wisterias climb best on wires, trellises, arbors and pergolas. They can be grown on solid, vertical surfaces if proper supports are provided, such as rows of wire attached four to six inches from the wall. Use sturdy, durable materials such as galvanized wire, tubing or wood. Copper or aluminum wire or tubing are preferred over other metals since these do not rust.
Use pressure-treated wood for arbors and pergolas. However, do not plant wisteria where the stems can invade and clog building gutters. Wisteria can also be grown as a single trunk standard or a tree-form. To accomplish this, the plant must be staked in an upright position. When it has reached four to five feet in height its top is cut off. Side shoots are allowed to develop on the upper part, but are continually removed from the lower stem. Side shoots are pruned each winter to six inches to a foot in length until the top is as large as desired. Future pruning consists of cutting summer shoots to the sixth or seventh leaf as soon as it expands and of cutting off secondary shoots that develop just beyond the first or second leaf. In winter, these secondary shoots are cut back to within an inch of their base. Living trees are often used as support but this must be done carefully. Trees less than ten inches in diameter can be quickly killed by girdling of the twining wisteria stem. Larger trees can also be damaged.
If trees are used they should be inspected every several years to prevent girdling. If a tree is being girdled, the wisteria can be cut back to the soil line and allowed to grow back. The old girdling stem must be physically removed from the tree to avoid future damage.
Planting and Establishing
Once the soil is prepared and the support system is in place, the vine can be planted. Place the root ball of the plant in the hole so it is no deeper than it originally grew in the nursery. If your wisteria is grafted, set it so the graft union is slightly below the soil surface. Fill in the hole with the prepared soil mix and firm it around the root ball. Water well after planting, soaking the entire area. New plants will require an inch of water per week applied either through irrigation or as rainfall. Young plants should be fertilized annually until they fill the allotted space. Do not expect young vines to bloom since vegetative growth is being encouraged. Once the plant is established and has filled the allotted space, do not fertilize unless shoot and foliage growth and color is not good.
Water only if foliage wilts as it might during drought conditions. Both of these practices stimulate vegetative growth and limit flower prodroduction.
Pruning Vines
Some annual pruning is required to maintain plant quality; it is not advisable to allow the vine to grow randomly and take over surrounding plants and structures. Pruning will help reduce the vigor of the vine and promote flowering.
Training New Vines
To train plants on a wire trellis or an arbor, select a vigorous, upright stem to serve as the main leader and attach this to the support. Remove other side shoots. As the main leader grows, it will develop side branches that will then produce more shoots and the flower buds. Continue to train the main leader upward and the new side branches as needed to form a framework to fit the allotted space (allow about 18 inches between side branches). Pinch off the main leader when it reaches the desired height.
From: Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet
Click for more - Tips on training Wisteria
Video on Pruning Wisteria:
How to Grow Wisteria | Garden Design
A gardener’s guide to planting & caring for a wisteria vine By Anne Balogh
Brimming with clusters of fragrant flowers in spring, the showstopping wisteria vine is loved by many gardeners despite its assertive reputation. An extremely vigorous grower, this perennial can get out of hand easily unless carefully restrained. Here are some tips for cultivating all wisteria has to offer while taming its aggressive growth habits.
To see other flowering vine options, check out our list of 21 Flowering Vines.
TRAINING WISTERIA: TRELLISES, PERGOLAS & OTHER SUPPORT STRUCTURES
Wisteria requires a sturdy support structure, such as this well-built pergola.
With its climbing agility and fast growth habits, wisteria can completely transform a garden in just a few years, becoming a breathtaking shade cover, privacy screen, or focal point.
Wisteria has the greatest impact when trained to grow on pergolas, arbors, and other strong overhanging supports so the long flower clusters can hang freely, creating a stunning floral canopy. In Japan, wisteria is even trained onto massive trellises to form blooming tunnels in spring. You can also train wisteria onto wires mounted on fences or stone walls or drape them over garden benches or arched entryways.
Although you may be tempted to let wisteria twine around the trunk of a tree, its vice-like grip will eventually strangle it. To achieve a similar effect, you can train wisteria as a single-trunk, free-standing tree by staking the thick woody stem of the plant to a sturdy post or 4-by-4 embedded securely in the ground. As the plant grows, remove all unwanted growth along the trunk, allowing only the top to grow. Using the same techniques on a smaller scale, wisteria can be grown in large pots or as a bonsai tree.
Whatever trellising method you use, make sure the system is sturdy.
Wisterias will readily topple weak wooden trellises, so use durable materials such as heavy metal pipe set in concrete or pressure-treated or rot-resistant wood beams. Also avoid growing the vines alongside your house, because they can creep under siding and wrap around gutters.
Keep in mind that once wisteria becomes well-established, it can be very difficult if not impossible to move later. Choose your planting location and design intent carefully, because you may not be able to change your mind later.
HOW TO GET YOUR WISTERIA TO BLOOM
Be patient, a newly planted wisteria may take several years to mature before it begins flowering.
Gardeners are often devastated when their wisteria fails to bloom the first season after planting. With young plants, be patient. Wisteria takes several years to mature and become established before it begins flowering with gusto. However, a lack of flowering can also be attributed to other factors, such as too much fertilizer, improper pruning, injury to the flower buds by frost exposure, or too much shade.
Here are some tips from Toronto Master Gardeners for guaranteeing a profusion of blooms:
- Avoid buying wisteria planted from seed. Seed-grown plants remain in a juvenile state for an extended period and can take up to 15 years to bloom. Instead, choose varieties that are grafted or propagated from cuttings from a reliable bloomer.
- To eliminate the risk of frost damage to flower buds, grow American wisteria or Kentucky wisteria. These plants form buds on the current season’s growth.
- Don’t overwater or fertilize established vines. Wisteria needs to undergo a bit of stress to force the development of flower buds. Too much water or the application of high-nitrogen fertilizers will encourage leaf production at the expense of flowering.
- Wisteria planted in full sun will bloom more reliably than plants located in part shade. Make sure the upper part of the plant receives at least six hours of daily sun exposure.
Here are some of the most popular wisteria cultivars:
Swipe to view slides
Photo by: Müller/ McPhoto / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria floribunda ‘Rosea'
Soft pink 13- to 16-inch flower clusters tinged with lavender. Grows more slowly than other cultivars (2 to 3 feet per year), making it a good choice for smaller gardens.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: Garden World Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria floribunda ‘Snow Showers’
Pure white, pea-like flowers give the impression of snow falling in springtime. Very fragrant.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: nnattalli / Shutterstock.
Wisteria floribunda 'Longissima Alba'
Very fragrant white wisteria with dense flower clusters up to 20 inches long.
Zones: 4-9
Photo by: Tim Gainey / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria floribunda 'Royal Purple'
Very fragrant white wisteria with dense flower clusters up to 20 inches long.
Zones: 4-9
Photo by: Garden World Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria floribunda 'Violacea Plena'
Showy blue-violet double flowers that fade to pale lavender.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: InfoFlowersPlants / Shutterstock.
Wisteria sinensis 'Alba'
Short clusters of fragrant, pure white, pea-like flowers.
Zones: 5-8
Photo by: Wiert Nieuman / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria sinensis 'Prolific'
Noted for its prolific clusters of lilac-blue flowers. Typically begins blooming at an earlier age than other cultivars.
Zones: 5-8
Photo by: Garden World Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria frutescens 'Amethyst Falls'
Blooms at an early age, often its first season, with lightly fragrant lilac-blue flowers. Blooms also arrive about two weeks later than other varieties, so the buds are rarely affected by a late frost.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: Carl Boro / Millette Photomedia.
Wisteria frutescens 'Longwood Purple'
This American wisteria flowers later than Asian varieties, but can repeat bloom through September. Offers a remarkable display of grape-like flower clusters.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: Jennifer Martin-Atkins / Millette Photomedia.
Wisteria macrostachya 'Aunt Dee'
Abundant 8- to 12-inch-long clusters of fragrant lilac-blue flowers on new growth. Blooms at an early age.
Zones: 4-9
Photo by: blickwinkel / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria macrostachya ‘Blue Moon'
Produces foot-long clusters of lavender-blue flowers in spring, with repeat blooming throughout the growing season once established.
Zones: 3-9
Photo by: Paul S Drobot / Millette Photomedia.
Wisteria macrostachya 'Clara Mack'
A pure white flowering form of Kentucky wisteria with dark green foliage.
Zones: 3-9
Not pictured:
Wisteria floribunda 'Lawrence'
Pale violet-blue flowers. The 12- to-18-inch clusters are loaded with as many as 160 blooms, more than all other Japanese wisteria.
Zones: 5-9
Wisteria frutescens 'Nivea'
Densely packed white flower clusters only 6 inches long, creating a pinecone-like shape.
Zones: 5-9
WHERE TO BUY WISTERIA
American Meadows
Brushwood Nursery
Digging Dog Nursery
Fast Growing Trees Nursery
Monrovia
Nature Hills Nursery
Spring Hill Nurseries
Thompson & Morgan
Wayside Gardens
Wilson Bros Gardens
WISTERIA Q&A
How large can wisteria get?
Wisteria vines can grow to epic proportions, spreading 100 feet or more under ideal growing conditions. The world’s largest known wisteria, located in Sierra Madre, Calif., was planted in 1894 and covers more than one acre.
Why does wisteria make loud popping noises?
Wisteria is a member of the pea family (Fabaceae), and similar to sweet pea vines, it produces long (but poisonous) seedpods after the flowers fade. When the pods ripen and turn brown, they explode with enough force to eject the seeds far away from the parent plant. This is Mother Nature’s way of preventing the overcrowding of seedlings, so they can germinate and grow without competition.
How long will wisteria live?
Planting wisteria is a long-term commitment. If you put a plant in the ground now, it may still be blooming and growing a century later if left undisturbed. One of the oldest wisteria vines, located in Japan’s Ashikaga Flower Park, dates back to 1870.
READER QUESTIONS
Q: I love wisteria but am having a hard time with it here in Minnesota. It’s not making much progress up my wooden arbor. - James A. Reider, White Bear Lake, Minn.
A: Your wisteria is root-hardy, but all the top growth it puts on each year is killed by severe winter temperatures.
No wonder it’s not getting anywhere on your arbor. The two most common wisterias are W. sinensis and W. floribunda; the latter is a bit hardier. Its flower clusters are longer and more fragrant, but if your plant has never flowered, the best way to tell which one you have is the manner in which it twines: clockwise for W. floribunda, counterclockwise for W. sinensis. If you find you are growing the less hardy species, you might give W. floribunda a whirl, or even better yet, the native W. macrostachya. You might also consider wrapping the new growth in burlap for a little extra protection. If swaddling it is out of the question, you may have to settle on another vine. Incidentally, I hope your arbor is made of strong, thick timber: wisteria’s anacondalike stems have brought down many a finely wrought Victorian porch and gazebo.
Americans seem to have a strong distrust of vines; we grow them much less than other garden plants.
It probably comes from a Freudian hang-up about lush, twining, probing shoots and tendrils or, more likely, our fear of the self-important, strangling imported thugs we see taking over in nature - porcelain berry, Hall’s honeysuckle, and kudzu. I’d like to see increased use of vines and more imaginative ways of growing them. Why not plant different vines at the base of your arbor and let them fight it out? You’ll have more interesting foliage shapes and textures and more flowers over a longer period of time. And, should some prove not as hardy or as vigorous as others, you won’t be left with a bare arbor. Why not be Darwinian and let the tough Minnesota winters weed out the weaklings?
Try trumpet creeper — the plain red species (Campsis radicans), not the named varieties that are less hardy — for its deep-green foliage and wonderful junglelike red flowers in late summer. It’s vigorous and can climb up a wooden arbor unassisted. Native Dutchman’s pipe (Aristolochia macrophylla) is a gamble in hardiness, but give it a try.
It’s rambunctious and casts a deep shade with its large, tropical-looking leaves. A hardy, fast-growing native whose foliage turns scarlet in the fall is Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia).
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planting and care in the open field, growing from seeds, photo
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- Planting and Care for Glycinia
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Flowers GLICANIS (Greek Glicinia - Sweet) , or Wisteria , belong to the genus of the tree -growing plants, growing.
subtropical areas and attracting attention with their fragrant, hanging purple inflorescences. The Latin name "Wisteria" was given to the wisteria flower in honor of Caspar Wistar, professor of anatomy at the University of Pennsylvania. Known 9species of the genus wisteria, but as horticultural crops, only Chinese wisteria and Japanese wisteria, or profusely flowering, are grown.
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Planting and caring for wisteria
- Planting: sowing seeds in the ground - in early spring, for seedlings - in December, planting seedlings in the ground - in May.
- Flowering: late March to late summer.
- Lighting: bright sun in the first half of the day, then diffused light or partial shade. nine0012
- Soil: nutritious, well-drained, slightly alkaline.
- Watering: from spring to late summer - moderate: the soil in the near-stem circle should be slightly damp all the time, and from mid-September, watering is gradually reduced.
- Top dressing: during the growing season once a week alternately with mineral and organic solutions.
- Pruning: in summer to keep the shape of the bush. nine0012
- Propagation: sometimes by seeds, but more often by cuttings.
- Pests: clover mites, aphids.
- Diseases: chlorosis.
Read more about the cultivation of wisteria below
Botanical description
The wisteria plant in nature is a woody deciduous vine with drooping branches, reaching 15-18 meters in height. The leaves of wisteria are imparipinnate, pubescent when young, up to 30 cm long, with the number of leaves from 7 to 13. Fragrant purple, lilac or white flowers are collected in drooping brushes up to 30 cm long. Wisteria blooms in spring, at the end of March and can bloom throughout the summer. nine0007
The wisteria tree is in great demand in landscape design, it is grown in various forms - both as a liana wrapping around the walls of an arbor or a fence frame, and as a standard tree.
Wisteria is also grown at home in a container way in the form of a tree, but still homemade wisteria is not as common as garden wisteria, so let's talk about growing wisteria in the garden.
Growing wisteria from seeds
Growing conditions
Wisteria seeds are planted in late November or early December. Wisteria seeds are sown on the surface of a soil mixture consisting of leafy soil (four parts), soddy soil and sand (one part each), sprinkled with a thin layer of sand on top, sprayed with water from a spray bottle and, having covered the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect, put in a dark warm (22-25 ºС) place, keeping the soil slightly moist all the time. Wisteria sprouts from seeds in 3-4 weeks, and after another week and a half, it will be possible to transfer seedlings to the light by organizing protection from direct sunlight. nine0007
When the seedlings have two leaves, they are dived into separate containers together with a clod of earth on the roots and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Care of seedlings
Seedlings dived into individual containers must be accustomed to the environment in which they will live. To do this, they need to be taken out for a couple of hours a day to an unheated part of the house or kept under an ajar window, provided that there is no draft in the room.
Wisteria seeds can be sown directly into open ground in early spring, then seedlings grow adapted to the environment and subsequently please with their endurance. nine0007
Planting wisteria
When to plant
Plant wisteria in the spring after the last frost has passed. All types of garden wisteria are cold-resistant, but it is better not to expose young plants to the risk of frostbite. Before planting wisteria, it is necessary to determine in which area it will grow better - wisteria is not an annual, and if you are interested in the quality of flowering, then keep in mind that it should be in the sun for half a day, so choose the most sunny and protected from gusts of wind, the soil is nutritious, well-drained and slightly alkaline.
nine0007
How to plant
Wisteria seedlings are transplanted into pits 60x60x50 cm in size, having previously applied mineral fertilizers to the soil in the area for digging at the rate of 25-30 g per square meter of planting area. Be prepared for the fact that wisteria will not show signs of life for some time - it grows for a long time, and in the first years it forms only long thin shoots. In general, you can see beautiful flowers of wisteria grown from seeds only after 4-5, or even after 10 years. nine0007
- Useful tips for growing ampelous petunias - how to achieve lush flowering?
Care of wisteria in the garden
Care instructions
From spring to late summer, wisteria requires moderate watering so that the soil under it is always slightly moist, but never wet. If the spring is without rain, then you will have to water more diligently, because the buds may crumble, and you will not see the flowers for which the plant was planted.
From mid-September, watering is gradually reduced. nine0007
In order for wisteria to bloom on time and abundantly, it is fed once a week during the active growing season, alternating liquid mineral fertilizers (Kemira-lux, for example) with organic ones (mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:20). It is useful to pour wisteria with chalk water once a season (100 g of chalk per bucket of water). When the flowers begin to fade, remove the faded inflorescences. In addition, you will have to cut dry branches, tie up and guide the shoots so that they do not fall and grow in the right direction.
Before the onset of winter, you need to spud the rosette high, remove the vine from the supports and lay it on the near-trunk circle, as is done with climbing roses, preparing them for wintering, and then sprinkle with dry leaves and cover with spunbond or lutrasil. You can not do all this, but if there is no snow in winter, the wisteria may freeze.
Flowering
When does wisteria bloom? Chinese wisteria blooms at the age of three, Japanese - at the age of ten, so wisteria is a plant for those who know how to wait.
Chinese wisteria blooms from April, with all buds opening at the same time. Wisteria blooms profusely from May to June. Make sure that there is no excess nitrogen in the soil, otherwise the wisteria will grow green, but will not bloom. nine0007
Pruning
Pruning wisteria to stimulate flowering and to form the plant. To form a standard tree, one strong shoot is chosen, and the rest are removed. If you grow wisteria as a climbing plant, then it is advisable to remove the abundantly growing side shoots so that wisteria does not expend energy on overgrowing greens, but directs them to the formation of buds.
Pruning wisteria in spring consists of removing young shoots sticking out so that their foliage does not hide flower clusters from view during flowering. In addition, a young lateral annual branch of wisteria can produce an inflorescence this year only if you shorten it to 30 cm.
Formative pruning of the plant is carried out in summer: lateral shoots are cut off by 20-40 cm, and at the very end of summer by another 10-20 cm.
However, try not to get carried away with the process, otherwise you may deprive yourself of the pleasure of seeing the lush flowering of wisteria.
- Gryzhnik: cultivation, properties, types
Propagation of wisteria
We have already described in this article the propagation of wisteria by seed. It is worth adding that many of the germinated and even grown seedlings may never produce flowers - no one knows why this happens. But we have repeatedly told readers that propagation by seeds is unreliable and it is much better to use vegetative methods of reproduction. nine0007
Wisteria is most easily propagated by layering. To do this, in the spring, an annual shoot is selected, an oblique incision is made in the middle of its length, the shoot is bent and placed with an incision on a pot with a clay-soddy substrate, the outlet is fixed in this position and added dropwise, leaving the top of the shoot free. It will be possible to separate the rooted cuttings from the mother plant only next spring.
In various publications they write that it is possible to propagate wisteria by cuttings or grafting on the roots, but I don’t know anyone who actually succeeded in this, but my layering took root. nine0007
Pests and diseases
Wisteria is sometimes attacked by aphids or clover mites. Aphids are destroyed by an insecticide, and mites by an acaricidal preparation. If wisteria grows in alkaline soil, it can be affected by chlorosis, from which its leaves turn yellow. In the fight against the disease, root dressing of wisteria with iron salts is used.
Species and varieties
Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)
Dense leafy liana up to 15-20 m in height. The leaves are pinnate, large, at first pubescent, but eventually becoming smooth. Flowers in loose racemes up to 30 cm long, light lilac. The fruit is a bean up to 15 cm long. This species has a garden form with white flowers (f. alba) and a form with double flowers (f. plena). nine0007
Wisteria profusely flowering, or multi-flowered (Wisteria floribunda)
It is also colloquially “Japanese”, because it comes from the Japanese islands - it differs from Chinese in smaller sizes (only 8-10 m in length), larger leaves up to 40 cm in length and the number of leaves up to 19, a large number of inflorescences on the plant, as well as their larger sizes - up to 50 cm in length.
The flowers themselves are smaller than those of Chinese wisteria, of a violet-blue hue, bloom gradually, starting from the base of the brush. This species is more cold-resistant than Chinese wisteria. There are garden forms with white, pink, purple double flowers and a variegated form with variegated leaves. nine0007
In addition to these two most popular species, there are also beautiful wisteria (Wisteria venusta), shrub wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) and large wisteria (Wisteria macrostachys) in cultivation, on the basis of which Blue Moon wisteria was bred by American gardeners from Minnesota, capable of wintering in the garden even without cover.
- Hionodox: cultivation and care, types and varieties
Literature
- Read related topics on Wikipedia nine0012
- Peculiarities and other plants of the legume family
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
Wisteria - why not wrap wisteria around a pole and how to fix the situation?
Godetia: growing from seed, species and varieties
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care and cultivation. Tips and tricks from the pros
Wisteria is an early flowering vine that transforms the garden into a magical island. Wisteria care begins in early spring. So if you want to admire the lush fragrant garlands, then hurry up. Create the right conditions for a spectacular beauty!
Brief botanical reference
Wisteria, or wisteria, is a bright representative of the legume family.
The climbing perennial fell in love with gardeners for its high decorativeness and rapid long flowering. In March, the charming southerner is covered with slightly pubescent leaves up to 30 cm long and small white, lavender or pink flowers, collected in luxurious racemose inflorescences. nine0007
You can admire the breathtaking picture for a long time - until September itself. The only thing that is required for this is to carefully care for the delightful liana, designed to decorate fences, arbors, verandas, garden arches and tree trunks.
Wisteria: care and cultivation
In order for a subtropical resident to feel comfortable in a foreign land, her habits should be studied.
Exotic deciduous liana likes:
- bright sunlight; nine0011 loose nutrient substrates;
- moderate watering;
- mineral fertilizers.
It may seem that Glicinia is capricious and difficult to care for, but it is not. If you want to make friends with her, it will be easy.
Wisteria is considered to be grown only in warm regions. However, the climbing vine is surprisingly strong and hardy. It quickly develops new territories and adapts to harsh climatic conditions. So, Wisteria Chinese Blue Sapphire and Wisteria Chinese Alba easily withstand temperatures of -25 ° C. nine0007
Planting wisteria: the secrets of success
Growing wisteria from seeds is troublesome and not always successful. In order for the work to bring positive results, it is better to buy seedlings from a trusted supplier.
Planting rules:
- The plant is planted in the ground after the danger of sudden frost has passed.
- The seat must be open to the sun and protected from drafts.
- Slightly alkaline, well-drained fertile substrate promotes rapid growth and long flowering - plant wisteria in loose, weed-free soil. nine0012
- Optimal hole size - 70x70x60 cm.
- Lay drainage from expanded clay or crushed stone at the bottom of the pits.
- The plant is planted strictly vertically and covered with earth so that a growth bud remains above the surface.
- After planting, wisteria seedlings are watered with settled water at room temperature, and the near-stem circle is mulched with grass.
The creeper grows very slowly at first. It may seem to you that it has stopped in development. But behind the absence of signs of life, the process of formation of a powerful root system is hidden, after which the perennial will begin to actively develop the territories provided to it. nine0007
Seed-grown wisteria starts flowering 4-6 years after planting. If you grow an exotic beauty through seedlings, then you can see the first flowering much earlier - after 2-3 years.
Wisteria: care in all the rules
Proper care is a guarantee of good health and long-term flowering of deciduous liana. For your convenience, we have prepared a hint table for you:
| Event nine0300 | Features |
| Watering | The plant does not tolerate both excess and lack of moisture. |
| Spraying | Watering can be combined with spraying. To prevent root rot on especially hot days, alternate heavy watering with light sprinkling. nine0007 |
| Top dressing | During the active growing season, wisteria is fed with minerals and organic matter once every 7 days. A good effect is the alternation of Kemira-lux and mullein infusion. |
| Cutting | The first pruning is carried out after the end of flowering - side branches are cut to ⅓. The second - in the fall, after the leaves fall - all shoots are shortened to 2-5 buds. nine0007 |
Watering regime - 1 time per week at the rate of 10 liters of water per bush. During budding, the frequency of watering increases.
In the northern regions, wisteria is covered for the winter. Frost-resistant young plants are also better protected from severe cold weather - cover with spruce branches, straw, moss or lutrasil.
