Where to plant climbing roses
How to plant climbing roses
(Image credit: David Austin)
If you love climbing roses, squeeze more of them into the garden by growing climbing varieties. Plant them now, and come summer, they will clad walls, archways, and pergolas with curtains of flowers that fill the air with scent.
There is a wide variety of climbing roses to plant – here, we take you through which climbing roses to plant, where to plant them and how. Although the methods below don't differ too much from planting roses that aren't climbers, we do have expert advice about climbing varieties to impart.
Which climbing roses to plant?
(Image credit: David Austin)
If you are looking for rose garden ideas, take the time to choose the climbing rose that ticks all your boxes. The color of their blooms varies, of course, but so does the hue of their foliage, their height, health, flower shape, and their scent (some don’t smell at all).
Many flower once in summer, while others bloom non-stop until the frosts. Some have single or semi-double flowers that give bees access to nectar; a few are thornless, making them ideal for archways; and a select handful will bloom on a north-facing wall.
If you want a compact climber, Lady of Shalott is a great choice, says leading rose expert and international rose-garden designer Michael Marriott , who worked at David Austin Roses for 35 years: ‘It is a wonderful variety that can be grown as a short 10ft (3m) climber for a fence or wall. It is incredibly free flowering, from June until late in the year. The blooms are a beautiful shade of rich apricot orange and the fragrance has hints of spiced apple and cloves.’
Where a more vigorous climber is sought, London-based garden designer Claire Mee opts for ‘Madame Alfred Carrière’: ‘She’s a favorite – a repeat flowerer with creamy pink-white flowers, thornless (so good for those with young children), tolerates a shady north-facing spot, beautiful to look at, and smells glorious.’
Other great choices include ‘New Dawn ’ (pale-pink), ‘Sombreuil’ (cream), and ‘Climbing Étoile de Hollande ’ (crimson-red) are all excellent scented climbers that reach around 15ft (4.
5m). Shorter options that manage 10ft (3m) or less include Climbing Gertrude Jekyll and Strawberry Hill – two beautifully fragrant pink cultivars.
If you prefer the more informal habit and flowers of rambling roses, Trevor White's ‘Francis E. Lester ’ is a fantastic choice. Having a profusion of pink and white single blooms that scent the air and feed bees, followed by orange autumn hips, it is hard to beat.
These climbing roses are some of the best climbing plants you can put into your backyard – and are from the world-famous David Austin nurseries.
When to plant climbing roses
(Image credit: Future)
For the best in English garden ideas, containerized climbing roses can be planted at any time of year, but for the healthiest plants, opt to buy ‘bare root’ between November and March. Bare root climbing roses are cheaper and create a more robust root system. They are sold without soil, direct from specialist rose nurseries or by mail order, during winter.
Plant them on a day when the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged.
Where to plant climbing roses
(Image credit: Future / Mark Bolton)
‘Place climbing roses in places where you spend a lot of time or pass by frequently,’ advises Ohio-based garden designer Ethan McGory . ‘This allows you to appreciate the scent and color, as well as changes through the year. The rose hips and stems can be beautiful in winter. A porch or patio is ideal.’
Amongst the best climbing plants with flowers, climbing roses like rich, well-drained, moist neutral to alkaline soil in full sun. To prevent disease, it’s best to choose a site that hasn’t recently had roses growing in it.
‘Climbing roses are great for cladding structures,’ says Massachusetts-based garden designer Maria von Brincken . ‘Pergolas, bowers, and large trellis create the walls of outdoor rooms. Vertical flowering roses in an intimate space created by such structures are superb.’
For something a bit different and to create a charming focal point in the garden, London-based garden designer Claire Mee loves sending roses through trees.
‘It’s an interesting way to include a rose in a garden,’ she says. ‘For example, Rosa banksiae ‘Lutea' will happily grow through an existing tree.’ Make sure that tree is the right size to accommodate the rose you select, so that the tree isn’t damaged.
How to plant climbing roses
Use these steps to plant climbing roses successfully.
1. Prepare climbing roses for planting
Soak the roots of your bare root rose in water for an hour.
Prepare a hole that’s wider and deeper than the rose’s roots; loosen the ground beneath very well with a fork, and dig in well-rotted manure or organic compost.
2. Feed the climbing rose's roots
Sprinkle mycorrhizal fungi onto the roots while holding the rose over the hole. This will stimulate root growth, creating a more robust plant.
3. Check the soil level
The graft (the bulbous join between the roots and the stems) should be 2in (5cm) below the surface.
Now backfill with soil.
Then – to prevent air pockets – gently press down the soil with your foot. Finally, water in.
How to care for climbing roses
(Image credit: Future / Mark Bolton)
Feed after pruning with rose fertilizer and give a liquid tomato feed fortnightly in summer at half the recommended dose.
Mulch annually in March, by placing a layer of well-rotted manure or organic compost around the plant.
Use companion planting: growing climbing roses with perennials, rather than cultivating them en masse with nothing but other roses, helps to reduce disease. Salvias (such as ‘Cerro Potosí’) are especially good as their sulphur content is thought to prevent rose sickness.
Deadhead repeat-flowering climbing roses to stimulate more blooms. But don’t behead once-flowering roses that produce autumn hips.
Prune climbing roses in January or February, and prune rambling roses in autumn, after their show of hips has finished.
Stay safe by using sturdy ladders and shoes with good grip, and never prune climbers when you are tired.
For a safer, easier way to prune – especially for gardeners who aren’t steady on their feet – grow a climbing rose close to the ground, suggests Maryland-based landscape architect and designer Kirsten Coffen . ‘My favorite way to integrate a climbing rose into a garden is to plant and train it along a cottage-garden style fence. It’s a beautiful way to create a long horizontal accent that will provide structure and a back drop to other lower blooming perennials in front of the fence. Since roses require frequent pruning and deadheading, those tasks are easier to perform when all parts of the plant are growing within reach, so you don’t need a ladder.’
Lucy Searle has written about interiors, property and gardens since 1990, working her way around the interiors departments of women's magazines before switching to interiors-only titles in the mid-nineties. She was Associate Editor on Ideal Home, and Launch Editor of 4Homes magazine, before moving into digital in 2007, launching Channel 4's flagship website, Channel4.
com/4homes. In 2018, Lucy took on the role of Global Editor in Chief for Realhomes.com, taking the site from a small magazine add-on to a global success. She was asked to repeat that success at Homes & Gardens, where she has also taken on the editorship of the magazine.
Climbing Roses: Plant, Grow and Care for Climbing Roses
Climbing roses are the perfect plants to add height to a garden. The choice is huge, so take time to find the right climbing plant for you and your garden.
There are climbing roses available in all the popular rose categories – hybrid tea roses, bourbons and English roses. Choose from double or single flowers, thornless or scented – the rose will live for decades so it's worth getting it right. Climbers can be grown up house walls, along garden fences, over pergolas or up large obelisks. Nearly all climbing roses offer more than one flush of flowers. Flowers are larger than those of rambling roses.
How to grow climbing roses
Grow climbing roses in moist but well-drained, fertile soil, in full sun to partial shade.
Tie stems into a loose framework to maximise flowering potential. Feed plants in spring with a balanced fertiliser. In autumn, clear up fallen leaves to prevent the spread of fungal infections such as rust and blackspot, then mulch the soil with well-rotted manure, leaf mould or compost. Prune annually in winter.
More on growing roses:
- Rose types explained
- How to grow shrub and species roses
- How to grow ground cover roses
- How to grow rambling roses
- Rose problems solved
- Trouble-free roses
- What to grow with roses
Find detailed advice on growing climbing roses, below.
Where to plant climbing roses
How to grow climbing roses - where to grow climbing roses
Plant your climbing rose in moist but well-drained, fertile soil. Most climbing roses do best in full sun, but some are more tolerant of shade. Seek advice from a specialist rose nursery if you're looking for a climbing rose for shade, the will have a few options for you.
How to plant climbing roses
How to grow climbing roses - how to plant a climbing rose
You can buy climbing roses as container-grown plants at any time of the year, while bare-root climbing roses are available to buy in autumn and winter – this is often how specialist nurseries send out mail-order roses.
More like this
Plant your climbing rose on a dry, frost-free day. Dig a hole at least twice the depth and width of the root ball and add in some well-rotted organic matter. Tease out the roots and drop the plant into the hole, ensuring that it's planted at the same depth it was in the pot, or look for a soil 'tide mark' on the stem. Backfill and firm in place with your heel, and water in well.
Train your climbing rose up a supports such as a wire frame, pergola or obelisk, and prune out any stems that are growing in the wrong direction.
How to care for climbing roses
How to grow climbing roses - how to care for climbing rose
Deadhead climbing roses after flowering to encourage a second flush of flowers.
Train in new stems regularly.
Feed plants in spring with a balanced fertiliser. Clear up fallen leaves to prevent the spread of fungal infections such as rust and blackspot. Mulch the soil in autumn with well-rotted manure, leaf mould or compost.
How to prune climbing roses
How to grow climbing roses - how to prune a climbing rose
For the first few years after planting there's no need to prune climbing roses. Simply train in new stems to their support.
As your climbing rose becomes established, it's important to train new stems horizontally every autumn, to encourage flowering. In this Gardeners' World video clip, Monty Don shows you how to tie in new stems to create a well-spaced, tangle-free framework, ensuring there are no loose stems to be blown around in winter:
Prune climbing roses in autumn, after flowering. Leave the main framework of stems unpruned, unless they're reaching beyond their supports. Simply prune the side shoots to four healthy buds.
When pruning climbers, cut just above a bud that points in the direction that you want a new stem. Avoid cutting above a bud that will direct growth to the garden path, for example.
How to propagate climbing roses
How to grow climbing roses - how to propagate climbing roses
Propagate climbing roses from hardwood cuttings or semi-ripe cuttings. Hardwood cuttings are take in winter when the plant is dormant, semi-ripe cuttings are taken in late summer after flowering.
To take semi-ripe cuttings, cut just above a bud to remove a mature side shoot, around 10cm long. Use a sharp pair of secateurs. Cut off the soft tip just above a bud. Fill a plastic garden pot with cutting compost and water. Insert half of the cutting in the compost making sure that the cutting is the right way up.
Cover with a clear plastic bag and place in a frost-free and light place. By the following spring cuttings should have rooted and be ready to pot on.
Growing climbing roses: problem solving
How to grow climbing roses - problem-solving
Roses can be prone to rust.
Small brown marks appear on the lower surface of leaves. This is a fungal disease spread by spores. To resolve this, remove all the affected leaves and mulch the spot to stop any fungal spores in the soil spreading by rain splash.
Some roses will produce suckers at the base. If not removed they'll take over. They're shoots that grow directly from the rootstock on which some roses are grown, and are not true to type. Simply pull away suckers as soon as you spot them.
Climbing rose varieties to grow
Pale pink, double flowers of Rosa 'A Shropshire Lad'
- Rosa ‘Madame Alfred Carrière’ – an old fashioned rose. Pale pink, double, scented flowers in July to September. Height 4.5m
- Rosa ‘New Dawn’ – pale pink flowers from July to September. A vigorous climber reaching 3.5m
- Rosa ‘Gloire de Dijon’ – yellow/apricot double flowers from July to September. Intense fragrance. Reaches a height of 5m
- Rosa ‘Zéphirine Drouhin’ – a thornless, deep-pink, double flowering roses.
Fragrant. Height 3m
- Rosa 'A Shropshire Lad’ – peachy pink, double flowers with a fruity tea rose fragrance. Almost thornless. Height 4m
Roses by colour
- 10 red roses to grow
- Orange roses to grow
- Yellow roses to grow
- Pink roses to grow
- Purple roses to grow
Climbing roses: planting and care in the open field
💣💣💣 BLACK FRIDAY IN GARSHINKA!
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2 years ago
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Climbing roses wrapping around the arch or decorating the wall of the house can become the pride of a caring and hardworking gardener. Proper care of climbing roses will allow plants to delight the gardener's eye with continuous generous flowering, transforming even a modest flower garden into a bright, unique corner.
In the variety of species and groups of numerous varieties, climbing roses traditionally occupy a very honorable place, being very popular with flower growers.
Landscape designers who spare no effort in caring for climbing roses use these beautiful plants to form amazing flowering pergolas and columns. In addition to abundant and luxurious flowering, climbing roses are ready to give shady coolness, which is necessary on hot summer days.
Rules for planting climbing roses in open ground
The royal status of roses not only imposes many obligations, but also forgives many things. For example, for the sake of the beauty of flowers, many gardeners are ready to spend time and energy on all the difficulties that arise during the planting of climbing roses.
- The choice of the optimal season for planting climbing roses in open ground is extremely important for the subsequent development of perennials. According to experts, planting climbing roses in the spring will be an occasion to admire the young shoots and the first foliage after a short period of time. Spring planting is carried out with the onset of stable positive temperatures, but before the opening of the kidneys.
- Planting climbing roses in autumn, no later than mid-October, will allow young seedlings to take root well in a new place and gain strength by the beginning of winter cold. When planting in autumn, the plant will be able to give the first root shoots before the onset of serious frosts, and in winter the root system will harden so that with the advent of spring it will form on a par with the ground part of the plant.
- When choosing a place for planting a climbing rose in open ground, you should stop on a flat, well-lit area that has a slight slope for the flow of melt and rainwater or is equipped with a drainage system. Lowlands or wetlands that provoke decay of the root system and the activity of fungal infections are categorically unsuitable. It is not worth risking the health of plants by planting them in the sun: let only the gentle morning sun gently warm the rose petals. Drafts and constant winds can also harm the ground parts of plants, so the best place for planting climbing roses will be a bright and secluded corner of the garden.
- Preparing the soil for planting climbing roses should be started in advance, a month or more before the start of the procedure. The land intended for planting is first carefully dug up, adding organic fertilizers to the ground. Later, in the rested soil, planting pits are dug up to a depth and diameter of up to half a meter, manure mixed with clay and phosphorus-containing fertilizer are added to them. The holes are located at a distance of at least a meter from each other, otherwise the plant's root system will experience difficulties with development. The optimal soil for perennials is loose loam, which has good water permeability and contains a fertile layer.
- When planting a climbing rose, the root neck of the plant sinks into the ground by about a decimeter: such a precautionary measure will protect the shrub from winter frosts and blizzards. It is important that the root system of the plant be carefully straightened when planting a climbing rose. In addition, it is necessary to monitor the inadmissibility of the formation of air voids in the ground, so it is recommended that the soil be carefully compacted after planting is completed.
- When watering the soil after planting, you can use one tablet of Heteroauxin and Phosphobacterin dissolved in a bucket of water. The use of chemicals will help activate the protective properties of shrubs and stimulate the processes of cellular metabolism. Bushes can be spudded to a height of up to 20 cm, after adding land to the landing site. Further mulching will not only save the soil near the shrub from drying out, but also saturate it with microelements necessary for the plant. As mulch, humus, compost and humus are suitable, which can be prepared at their summer cottage on their own.
- When preparing for planting climbing roses, the issue of initial treatment of seedlings should be seriously resolved so that their development is complete. Such processing consists of several successive steps, namely:
- pre-soak whole seedlings or only their root system in water for a day;
- shorten strong shoots (about 30 cm) and completely remove immature and weak shoots;
- dust cuts with wood dust;
- remove crushed and shorten long root shoots, forming a neat bunch of healthy roots;
- to disinfect the seedlings by immersing them in a 3% solution of copper sulphate.
Care of climbing roses
Climbing roses are not included in the category of unpretentious plants: in addition to protection from drought and frost, pests and infections, they require increased attention and tireless care of the gardener. Among other things, proper pruning is important for them, reliable protection in the winter, and most importantly, the preparation of special supports, which is an essential part of caring for climbing roses.
- The frequency of watering plants is dictated by weather conditions. To ensure high-quality care for climbing roses, good watering is recommended at the time of intensive growth of green mass by roses, during the budding period and at the very height of flowering. The best strategy for a dry summer can be considered one watering every 10 days at the rate of a couple of buckets of water per shrub.
- Top dressings are an important part of the competent care of climbing roses. Organic and mineral fertilizers are applied during periods of active plant development until the onset of autumn.
You can use specialized preparations for roses, which are able to supply plants not only with phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen, but also with important trace elements necessary for proper growth.
- In early spring, at the very beginning of the active growth of perennials, complex or nitrogen fertilizers are used for top dressing, as well as organic matter, digging fertilizers into the ground or dissolving them in water for irrigation.
- Roses during budding should be supported with complex mineral fertilizers.
- Reblooming roses can be fed after the first wave of bloom to encourage rebloom activity.
- Caring for climbing roses in autumn in preparation for winter also includes autumn feeding, carried out in early September. Mineral fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus help the plant prepare for wintering. Often, autumn top dressing comes down to embedding a near-stem circle of bone meal in the soil.
- Caring for climbing roses is impossible without regular and timely pruning, which consists in decorative trimming and shortening of shoots, removing weak and broken stems.
Experts have developed a general universal pruning rule that applies regardless of plant varieties: the total number of removed and left shoots should always be approximately equal. - Shelter in preparing plants for wintering is an important component of the care of climbing roses: roses can be covered either by untying them and bending them to the ground, or directly on the support itself. When using the unsupported method, the untied bush is bent to the ground and wrapped with spruce branches. Scourges can be folded on an impromptu bedding of dry branches or leaves: you can not lay the stems on bare ground. On top of the spruce branches can be covered with fiberglass that allows oxygen to pass through.
- The bush can be wrapped with spruce branches without removing it from the supporting structure. A bush closed with spruce branches should first be wrapped with agrofiber or burlap, and then carefully secured with a strong hemp rope or twine. Knowledgeable gardeners cover several plants with one common shelter: this measure keeps dry air between the bushes, and this minimizes the likelihood of roses dying during wintering.
- In winter, during a thaw, it is permissible to briefly remove a dense covering film from the lashes - clean air will benefit wintering plants, but frequent airing should not be carried away. Spring care for climbing roses involves removing the shelter. If possible, with the onset of the first warm weather, it is recommended to remove a simple shelter daily for several hours a day, and the complete removal of the shelter is permissible after all the snow has melted. The earth of the near-stem circle is loosened in the spring, adding fresh compost to it.
- Plant characteristics require proper tying in the care of climbing roses: twine or hemp rope is well suited as a tying material. The use of metal objects such as wire is excluded, since metal can injure shoots. The strapping material is designed to tightly and securely fit the shoots, and not harm them. The condition of the supporting structures to which the stems of plants are attached must also be constantly monitored and repaired or replaced as necessary.
Experienced gardeners know that the quality of the support or tying greatly affects the health of plants.
Growers living in areas with harsh climatic conditions will have to work hard caring for climbing roses. So that luxurious and capricious beauties do not cease to delight and delight with generous flowering, turning rose bushes into fragrant clouds, generously strewn with luxurious flowers, their fans spare no effort, no money, no time, no love.
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How to grow climbing roses on your plot
All types of roses are amazing and beautiful. And each in his own way. Climbing roses are exceptionally good.
They are the favorites of all landscape designers and flower growers, as they allow you to create three-dimensional, three-dimensional compositions on the plots using vertical gardening.
The use of various multi-color varieties of climbing roses, which also differ in size and shape of flowers, allows you to decorate garden arches, rocky walls, pergolas, arbors, decorate verandas and walls of houses with unusual subtlety and elegance.
In the northern regions, the pink "liana" can reach 7-9 meters in length, so it can be brought under the roof of a cottage and effectively decorate, for example, the upper bedroom window
.
Such a significant length of the liana makes the grower constantly tie it up to some pre-designed supports as it grows. This will ensure the plant has a long and lush flowering.
In terms of frost resistance and hardiness, climbing roses take second place after bush roses among all other species of this beautiful plant.
Climbing roses have a very subtle and perhaps the strongest fragrance. It is from their flowers that the famous rose oil is made, on the basis of which the most expensive natural creams, lipstick, perfumes and other cosmetics are made.
When growing climbing roses, there are a number of features that you should be aware of if you decide to start growing them.
Therefore, today we will talk in detail about how to grow climbing roses, where they are best placed in a flowering garden and what are the most fashionable and beautiful varieties to choose for your design.
THE HISTORY OF THE APPEARANCE OF THE CLIMBING ROSE
Southeast Asia is considered to be the birthplace of all climbing roses.
Although the annals of ancient Greek philosophers and historians mention an evergreen rose that grew only in imperial gardens, but then it disappeared somewhere without a trace.
Cultivated climbing roses appeared in Europe only at the beginning of the 18th century. The very first was brought to his continent by the English ambassador Lord McCartney. Subsequently, it was named after him.
Later, the famous English botanist Joseph Banks brought from China cuttings of a magnificent white double climbing rose, which he named after his beloved wife Lady Dorothy Banks .
For many years, climbing roses in Europe adorned only royal parks and castle walls. They cost crazy money.
The fact is that in both China and Japan there were strict laws prohibiting the export of climbing roses from these countries under pain of death.
There are still legends among professional gardeners about an unusual expedition of the collector of rare flowers, Lord Robert Fortune, who lived in China for several years, having shaved off his hair and dressed in national Chinese clothes, and secretly brought several types of the most beautiful climbing roses out of the country.
Some of them are still grown in European gardens under the name Fortune roses .
In the 19th century, climbing roses also appeared in Russia - in the Imperial gardens and parks of St. Petersburg and Peterhof.
SOME BIOLOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF CLIMBING ROSES
Climbing roses, like no other, love sunlight. Only under the condition of full illumination of the entire creeper, they will bloom luxuriantly and for a long time in your garden.
Climbing roses grow best in the southern regions of our country, where in mild, warm winters they do not need to be removed from their supports and covered for the winter. There they can form a bright flower wall, intertwining with their vines and creating a truly fabulous picture of magical flowering.
Climbing roses are characterized by high frost resistance (up to -42 degrees), they are not afraid of cold wind and drafts, they are practically not affected by pests and diseases.
Their powerful shoots in the south can grow to a length of more than 15 m. From late spring to late autumn, creepers are covered with bright fragrant flowers of various sizes, colors and shades.
To keep the stems of the vines from undercooking, it is necessary to constantly remove old and faded shoots. Then the air will freely blow over the entire plant, preventing them from rotting.
HOW TO GROW CLIMBING ROSES IN YOUR GARDEN
Climbing roses are very hardy. The main thing is to correctly determine a place for them in the garden and plant them according to all the rules.
We have already told about the history of the appearance of the first roses, about their biological characteristics, about how to properly grow spray and park roses in our articles:
“How to grow a rose from a cutting”;
How to care for roses in spring;
“How to cover roses for the winter”;
Frost resistant roses in your garden;
How to care for roses in summer.
Today we will talk about the peculiarities of growing climbing roses.
Site selection . Choose a sunny, well-lit place for the climbing rose throughout the day. Your task will be complicated by the fact that at the same time you need to think over the system of supports to which the plant will be attached.
Do not forget that there are varieties of roses whose vines are longer than 10 - 12 m. Therefore, the supports must be mounted before planting or use ready-made ones (house wall, gazebos, garages, pergolas).
Do not plant climbing roses in lowland areas where they will constantly be in water (rain or melt). In such a place, a climbing rose will never grow.
In the lowlands, plant it on a hill or a bed formed along the wall of the house.
Soils . Climbing roses need very fertile, light, loose, organic-rich soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline environment (pH 7.0 - 7.5).
Neutralize acidic soils in the future rose garden in autumn with dolomite flour (at the rate of 2 kg per 5 sq.
m).
Fit . Before digging planting holes, once again decide on the supports for climbing roses. If you decide to plant them near a wall or fence, step back from them at least 1.6 m so that water from the roof does not flow onto the flowers.
Dig holes 60 cm deep and 60 cm in diameter. Remove all natural soil from the holes. Lay drainage from small broken bricks or crushed stone at the bottom. It is best to buy limestone crushed stone. It is now brought to many regions of the country from the south.
Distance between planting pits - 1.5 m.
Fill each planting pit with an artificial mixture composed of the top fertile layer, leafy soil, rotted manure and fine river sand in the ratio: 1:2:2:1.
Add 1/3 of a bucket of wood ash, 2 tbsp. spoons of double superphosphate and 2 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate.
Fill the hole halfway and plant seedlings. We recommend that you buy climbing roses in pots with ZKS. These are the ones we have prepared for you.
They will take root very well and will begin to stretch very quickly in length.
After planting, water your climbing roses well (1 cup of warm water per plant) and mulch the entire planting area with 6-7 cm of hay or straw.
Watering Climbing roses need a lot of irrigation water. Imagine what a huge green mass they have. It needs to be well hydrated.
Abundant watering is especially important for the formation of a strong root system of young plants. Therefore, after planting, water climbing roses every day (1 watering can of warm water under one plant) early in the morning or late in the evening - after sunset, so as not to burn the young leaves.
For the 3rd year, two waterings per week are enough (2 watering cans for each rose).
Water roses only with warm water. From the cold, they will start to hurt and may die!
Fertilizers. In spring, roses need nitrogen fertilizers first of all.
As soon as the snow melts, we recommend that you feed all climbing roses with a solution of rotted manure (at a concentration of 1:10 at the rate of half a bucket per plant).
When buds begin to form, feed your roses with a solution of calcium nitrate (three teaspoons per watering can).
In addition, starting from the moment of flowering, feed climbing roses once every two weeks with an infusion composed of wood ash and manure in a ratio of 1:10 to water.
Before the formation of buds, treat the leaves of the creeper with the same dressing (do this procedure once a summer).
In autumn - at the end of September, before removing from the supports, feed climbing roses with a ready-made mineral complex for autumn feeding of roses in the doses indicated on the package.
Cutting . The first pruning of climbing roses is carried out next spring. After you have freed the plants from winter shelters, inspect all the whips. Trim dried, broken, frozen and rotten and strengthen healthy lashes on supports.
Carry out the second sanitary pruning in the same way in autumn, after removing the supports and before covering them for the winter.
Winterization . Despite their fairly high frost resistance, climbing roses need winter shelter. There are two most common ways to cover climbing roses.
In the trench. Dig a trench 60 to 70 cm deep extending northeast from the stem of the rose. Cover the bottom with a thick layer of spruce branches. Lay a pink whip on it and cover it with a layer of 40 cm of leaf earth or humus.
When frost sets in, lay another layer of spruce branches on top and cover with one layer of covering material, fixing its ends well.
Ring. Very carefully twist the whip into a ring or tie into a sheaf. Lay boards on the ground, sprinkle dry leaves on them with a layer of 30 cm and lay one layer of spruce branches. Put a pink whip on the spruce branches.
Top it with two more layers of spruce branches and cover with covering material, also firmly fixing its ends.
