Tips on growing peas
Plant and Grow Peas
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Pea seedling1
by Stephen Albert
Grow peas during the winter in mild-winter regions. In cold-winter regions grow peas in the spring and sometimes in the fall.
Peas and temperature
- Spring sowing peas: The optimum seed starting soil temperature for peas is 75°F; this makes growing peas for fall harvest a strong option when they are planted 55 to 70 days before the first frost–depending upon variety.
- Peas germinate more slowly in cold soil, in about nine days in 60°F soil, in about 36 days in 40°F soil. Use black plastic sheeting to warm the soil in cool regions. (Peas can survive temperatures down to 19°F.)
- Fall sowing peas in mild-winter regions. Peas sown in late summer for fall harvest will germinate more quickly than spring-sown seed; the warmer soil temperature is optimal for pea seed germination. The old-fashioned pea variety Mammoth Melting will sprout in as little as three to six days sown in late summer. For varieties that are slower to germinate, soak seed in water for 24 hours before sowing to help loosen the seed coat and speed germination. Be sure to sow peas for fall harvest so that the crop is ready a week or two before the first expected fall frost. Young pea seedlings may need to be shaded on hot fall days. When the weather gets cool protect peas with floating row covers.
Types of peas
- There are three kinds of peas to grow: Chinese pea pods (also called snow peas), snap peas, and English peas (also called garden peas).
- Snow peas–with tender, succulent pods.
- Snap peas–with tender pods and juicy seeds–are eaten pod and all.
- English peas–with fat seeds for fresh eating or drying–are shelled. English peas with wrinkled seed covers are generally sweeter than smooth-seeded peas.
- Choose from the bush (dwarf) or climbing varieties; climbers will produce a greater yield but require support.
Where to grow peas
- Soil. Peas grow best in well-drained soil rich in nitrogen and aged compost. Turn the soil with a spade to a depth of 10 inches or more than work in the compost before sowing. Sow peas in raised beds in spring or where the soil is heavy or drains poorly. Add a low nitrogen fertilizer to the planting bed such as 5-10-10.
- Site. Grow peas in full sun. Set rows north to south so that plants get plenty of sun throughout the day. Sow peas in double rows–twin furrows 6 inches apart with a trellis between the rows; space double rows 24 to 30 inches apart. Sow seed two to three inches apart. Each row of earth will be planted with a double row of peas.
Planting peas
- Planting Peas in Twin Furrows. Sow peas in twin furrows (narrow grooves in the ground), one furrow on each side of the trellis about 6 inches apart. Sow the seed in each row every 2 inches; stagger the seeds on each side of the trellis. Make the furrows 1 inch deep in sandy or cool soil and 2 inches deep in heavy or warm soil.
- Planting Peas in Blocks. Bush or dwarf peas can be grown without support (but it will require some bending or knee harvesting later on). Sow bush peas in wide-row blocks; scatter the seed over the bed 1 inch apart and later thin plants to three inches apart. Don’t plant in wide rows so wide that you can’t reach the center at harvest. Wide-row or block-planted peas do not need staking or trellising. Some of the plants on the edge of the block may flop over, but generally, block-planted peas will offer a very good yield. (Use knee pads, a patch of carpet for your knees, or a small stool to make harvesting easier.)
- Inoculate the seed before planting peas. Peas and other legumes sown in planting beds that have not grown peas or beans in the last three years will grow better and be more productive if treated with the nitrogen-fixing bacteria Rhizobia before sowing. The Rhizobia bacteria form nodules on the roots of legumes; the nodules change nitrogen from the air into nitrogen that pea and bean roots can absorb and use. Treat or inoculate pea seed by rolling wet seed in inoculant powder available from seed companies. (One packet of inoculant is usually enough for a pound of seed.) Once seeds have been inoculated it is not necessary to add nitrogen fertilizer to the soil. The bacteria will live on in the soil for many years and new seeds will not require inoculation.
- Support Peas. Peas benefit from support, even dwarf varieties want a trellis to climb on. Place metal posts or stakes into the ground down the center of each double row; use stakes at least as high as the variety you are growing. Make sure the posts are securely anchored. Tie hardware cloth, chicken wire, or reinforcing wire to the stakes; be sure, the mesh is large enough to put your fist through at harvest time.
Caring for peas
- Birds and Peas. Birds are particularly attracted to young pea plants. Cover rows of pea seedlings with netting or chicken wire until the sprouts are up 5 inches.
- Watering. Keep pea planting beds evenly moist; do not let peas go dry. When the first blossoms appear, give peas about an inch of water (almost a gallon) each week until the pods are filled.
- Tie-in the vines. When vines are 12 to 15 inches high, tie in the row by looping twine between support poles to hold the new growth in and up. Tie-in vines as it grows up every 12 to 15 inches. This will keep wind and rain from whipping vines sideways.
Peas harvest
- Peas Harvest. Peas will be ready for harvest about three weeks after blossoms appear. Pick peas every day to encourage a greater harvest. Pick snap peas when the pods are plump and bright green; pick garden or English peas for shelling when they are plump as well. Pick snow peas while the pods are still nearly flat–the seed will be barely developed. Pinch pea pods away from the vine with your finger and thumbnail or use scissors. Hold the upper stem with one hand and pinch the pod away with the other; to avoid injuring the plant avoid pulling pods away from the stem.
Peas in the kitchen
- Fresh eating peas. Peas are the sweetest tasting right after picking; eat fresh peas within a day of picking. Snow peas can be eaten raw or added to stir-fried dishes. Snap peas can be eaten raw or cooked like snap beans. The seeds of English peas are shelled and cooked fresh or dried for later cooking. Just steamed bright green peas can be added to a salad or tossed in butter with new potatoes.
- Peas for soups. Peas for soups or to use like dried beans are left on the vine until the pods turn brown; shell dried peas and let them dry for three weeks or dry them in an oven for three hours at 120°F. Cool the peas and store them in an airtight container. Later separate the two halves of the pea with a mortar and pestle to prepare split peas.
More pea growing tips at How to Grow Peas.
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How to Grow Peas - Bob Vila
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Chances are the phrase “eat your peas” sounds familiar. But if the only thing that comes to mind are the mushy, canned variety, prepare to be converted. Fresh peas right off the vine taste nothing like their mass-produced cousins. They’re full of flavor, crisp, and in some cases they’re as sweet as candy.
The good news is that peas also are incredibly easy to grow and do well in cool weather, so they are often planted during shoulder seasons when other veggies are already fading or unable to start. This guide to growing peas will have you embracing peas on your plate again.
Growing Peas at a GlanceCommon Name: Pea, Garden Pea, Snap Pea, Sugar Pea, Snow Pea
Scientific Name: Pisum sativum
Hardiness Zone: 2 to 11
Soil: Rich, quick-draining soil, pH 6 to 7.5
Light: Full sun
Water: Regular, even
Food: Little to none
Propagation: Sow directly in soil
Safety: Edible, nontoxic
Peas are lovely vining plants that are easy to grow in nearly any climate. Their vines range in size from 2 feet long to several feet high. Unlike other vegetables, the plants can tolerate quite a bit of cold and fog, so peas are an excellent cool-season crop and an attractive addition to a fall vegetable garden.
There are two different categories of peas: shelling peas and edible-pod peas. Shelling peas are usually called garden peas, and they require growers to open the pod (shell) to harvest the peas, and then discard the shell. Edible-pod peas include snap peas and snow (or sugar) peas. Snow peas are flatter than snap peas. The entire pea, including the shell, is edible.
If you’re wondering “is a pea a vegetable?” the answer is yes and no. Peas are legumes, though the fresh and frozen peas are considered starchy vegetables. No matter what you call it, nearly all of the pea plant is edible including the shoots, leaves, flowers, and pods.
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Recommended Pea Varieties- Sugar Snap: sweet-tasting edible pods; eat right off the vine
- Little SnapPea Crunch: a small, crisp variety of snap pea great for containers
- Snowbird: A very early, cold-tolerant, dwarf snow pea
- Mammoth Melting Sugar: A large edible, sweet snow pea
- Lillian’s Caseload: Excellent taste, high-yield shelling pea
- Sugar Magnolia: Shelling pea with purple pods and bright green peas
- Lincoln: High-yield shelling pea, heat tolerant
- Little Marvel Garden Pea: Hardy, compact, high-yielding shelling pea
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Planting PeasPeas do best sown directly in the ground. Starting peas indoors is usually not worth the effort since peas like cool weather and are usually the first crop to go in and their roots don’t take kindly to transplanting. The most important thing when planting peas is giving them some kind of support, such as a trellis, on which to grow. A trellis might be as simple as a garden string fashioned between two stakes. Even bush varieties need some trellis support.
When is the best time to plant peas?When to plant peas will depend on your climate. Peas don’t like temperatures above 85 degrees, so they are considered a cool-season crop. In areas with cold winters, peas can be the first crop sown in early spring, as soon as the soil is workable. For fall crops, plant up to 12 weeks before the first expected frost date.
In climates with milder winters, plant anytime from fall to early spring; however, if you live in a climate where springs turn hot (above 85 degrees) quickly, avoid planting too late. Most peas take 60 to 70 days to mature.
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Where can peas grow?Choose a place in your garden with full sun and good airflow. Garden peas are climbing vegetables that require support as they grow but be mindful of planting along a fence that doesn’t allow for air circulation. Not enough circulation leads to powdery mildew.
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Garden peas can tolerate various soils as long as there is adequate drainage. Enrich the soil with compost to create a nutrient-dense planting mix. You can maximize garden space by planting a tall, vining pea plant that will climb up a pole, and planting microgreens in its shade, not unlike companion planting with cucumbers and salad greens.
How do you plant peas?Planting peas is rewarding as most pea seedlings germinate within 1 to 2 weeks.
- Plant seeds at the base of a trellis. How high will depend on the type of pea you’ve chosen.
- Dig a narrow, shallow trench, about 1½ inches deep.
- Plant the seeds 6 to 7 inches apart in the trench unless the seed packet suggests otherwise.
- Press the seeds into the trench and cover them with 1 inch of soil.
- Gently tap the soil to firm it over the seeds.
- Water carefully to avoid flooding and dislodging the seeds.
- Keep the soil evenly moist.
- Once the pea seedlings are several inches high, you can mulch around the base of the plant to keep moisture in.
In general, peas do not put down deep roots. The plants, especially the dwarf or bush variety, do not grow very tall. For these reasons, it is possible to successfully grow them in a container. The biggest challenge is to ensure that the soil is both rich in nutrients and drains well. Some kind of trellis or support will need to be added to allow the peas to grow up and not simply vine over the sides. It’s advisable to set the trellis in place before the peas start to grow.
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Watering PeasAvoid overhead watering—water peas at the base of the plant, keeping the soil evenly moist. Watering in the early morning will help prevent wilting during the day and allows plants to dry out before cooler evenings, helping to prevent powdery mildew. Be careful not to flood out delicate pea seedlings.
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Fertilizing PeasIf peas are planted in a compost-rich planting mix, no fertilizing is required during the growing season. If the soil is lacking in nutrients, fertilize pea plants 6 weeks after germination with a water-soluble fertilizer (10-10-10) and apply directly to the soil after watering in the morning.
Some growers choose to inoculate peas with Rhizobium, a bacterium that helps fix nitrogen from the air to store in the roots, resulting in a healthier, more vigorous plant. Look for a pea inoculant at any garden center or nursery. Prior to sowing the seeds, sprinkle a small amount of the inoculant directly into the seed packet and shake it. Many seed varieties will already be inoculated and will say so on the package. Peas will grow and produce without inoculation.
Safety ConsiderationsNearly all parts of the pea plant, Pisum sativum, are edible and pose no risk to animals or humans. However, it should be noted that sweet pea plants, Lathyrus odoratus, which are grown for their flowers, are toxic to humans, dogs, cats, and horses. The seeds of the sweet pea are poisonous. To make matters even more confusing, there is an edible sweet pea variety called Lathyrus sativus, which can be consumed but should be avoided in large quantities.
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Potential Pests and DiseasesPea seedlings are susceptible to slugs and snails. Because peas can be grown during cooler months, this is often a bigger problem in early spring or fall weather. Aphids can cause damage to plants, though not often the pods, and spread disease.
Powdery mildew is a common problem in the vegetable garden and pea plants are no exception. If caught early, the affected leaves can be removed to prevent spread. If it’s already started to spread, either wait until the peas mature, harvest the peas and then remove the plants, or pull out the diseased plants right away to prevent spreading. There are fungicides for powdery mildew, but it is difficult to spray the plants without coating the edible pods, and it is not generally advisable.
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Harvesting PeasKnowing how to grow peas is a great start, but understanding how to harvest and store them also is helpful. Harvesting peas of any variety requires similar steps; however, the type of pea you’ve planted will dictate the pea’s readiness for harvest as well as how you store the pea.
When is the best time to harvest peas?Peas typically mature between 60 and 70 days after planting, though the exact time to maturity depends on the variety—this will be listed on the back of your seed packet. Most pea plants will begin to produce pods within 8 to 10 weeks. The pods first appear at the bottom of the plant. Harvest these right away to encourage more growth and pod production. Look for pods that are plump but not hard. If peas over-ripen, they become starchy and the shells become tough.
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How do you harvest peas?Harvesting garden peas of any variety requires similar steps; however, the type of pea you’ve planted will dictate the pea’s readiness for harvest.
Snow peas are best when still flat, with just the beginning of peas forming inside. Sugar snap peas are at their sweetest when the pod looks plump and glossy, typically when the pods are 2 to 3 inches long, but the length varies depending on the exact variety. Garden peas are best when the peas are large but not fully developed. Look for pods that are full but not split or ready to burst. They will be somewhat cylindrical and still bright green.
- Look for peas that are at peak readiness. Peas produce a lot of pods, and it won’t take long to learn the ideal stage for harvest once you’ve picked a few.
- Harvest peas any time of the day, but morning is best, when they are plumpest.
- All types of pea plant are delicate, so be careful when harvesting them. Try twisting the pod gently with one hand while holding the vine with the other, or use scissors or garden shears to remove the pods to avoid breaking the vine.
- Peas are best when eaten right away.
- Shell garden peas by splitting them open and gently scraping the peas inside into a bowl.
- Some snow peas and snap peas have fibrous strings at the edge of the pod that should be removed before eating. If you plan to store your peas, wait to remove this.
If you are storing garden peas, shell the peas and then immerse them in cold water to chill. Some gardeners will shell their peas directly into a bowl of chilled water. Once they are cool, remove them from the water, allow them to dry, and store them in the refrigerator in a bag or container. They should hold their quality for up to a week in the refrigerator.
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You can also freeze peas following the same method, allowing them to dry completely before freezing. Don’t freeze whole garden peas; always shell them first.
Snow peas and snap peas should be cooled right after picking. Dunk them in cold water, allow them to dry, and store them in the refrigerator for up to a week. Both have fibrous strings at the edge of the pod that should be removed before eating, but leave them intact until you are ready to eat them. You can freeze snow and snap peas similarly to garden peas after cooling the pods and allowing them to dry.
If storing dried peas, particularly toward the end of harvest season, allow the pea pods to dry completely on the vine. They will start to brown and will sound like a rattle. Once the pods appear dry, pull the entire plant up and hang it to dry. Once the rest of the plant has dried out, remove the pods, shell the peas inside, and store for planting next year.
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how to plant, grow and harvest — AgroXXI
Green peas are an absolute hit of the garden season. And here are some simple tips that will be useful to you for a good harvest!
Green peas are very easy to grow and care for.
As a rule, most summer residents are interested in pea varieties for fresh consumption. In this capacity, varieties of sugar peas are excellently recommended. Of these, the most early ripening is "Ambrosia", the plant yields a crop of technical ripeness 54-56 days after the entrances. Light green pods usually contain 8-9grains without parchment layer.
Zhegalova 112, a popular mid-season variety of sugar peas, was created at the Gribov vegetable breeding station. The term of maturation from seedlings is from 50 to 60 days. The longest fruiting period is distinguished by the early ripe leafless "Sugar Slider", and the high palatability of "Moscow Delicatessen".
What affects the yield of peas
1. Planting time is a very important point when it comes to peas. Peas germinate and develop best in cool, damp weather. nine0004
If you wait too long, the heat will cause serious damage to your pea patch. On the other hand, if you sow in cold, wet soil, your peas will never sprout. Therefore, carefully read the information on the seed bag and sow at the indicated time.
Usually planting time is indicated four to six weeks from the last frost, which in the Moscow region, for example, may fall at the end of April. But it is at this time that the weather is insidious and can change at any moment. However, peas are not afraid of short-term frosts and will even survive the fallen snow, provided that the cold snap does not drag on. nine0004
2. Peas like soil with the following characteristics: loam, pH 5.5 to 7.0, well drained and rich in humus.
Every gardener knows how to improve the amount of organic matter in the soil: add compost. But if you are in doubt about the drainage capacity of the soil in your garden, it is better to make raised beds for peas.
3. Plant each pea 4 cm deep and 3 cm apart. Don't plant too close to the surface as the birds will find and peck at the peas looking for food. nine0004
4. You do not need to water your peas very often when they are growing. The weather will probably take care of watering due to the time of year. After flowering, pea plants need more water. By the appearance of the plants, you will determine whether you need to add moisture or not.
5. Peas do not require much fertilizer. You can apply the application of complex fertilizers Folirus on the leaf, then do not add a large amount of nitrogen to the soil - this will lead to plant diseases.
6. It is not worth hoeing a bed of peas even if you notice weeds. The root system of pea plants is located in the top layer of soil. If you damage it with a hoe, you will lose your crop. Mulch your garden bed ahead of time to avoid weed problems. At the same time, keep moisture in the soil.
7. Almost all pea plants need support. You can build a support from any materials at hand: wooden or plastic pegs, a grid attached to posts, or a lattice will do. nine0004
General problems of peas
Every plant has its own problems, and so do peas. Here's what you need to know about pests and diseases:
1. Aphids. Aphids are a threat to many plants because these tiny but harmful insects seem to be in almost every garden, damaging plants and opening doors for diseases.
Aphids can be identified by discolored or deformed leaves with sticky residue. If you look closely, you will find the insects themselves. You can spray your plants with a strong jet of cold water to make them fall off the leaves, and then once the peas are dry after the water treatment, dust them with flour. Another option is to use insecticidal soap. nine0004
2. The bean weevil, whose adults look like beneficial entomophage ladybugs, lays its eggs in the spring on the underside of the leaves of young plants. Golden-yellow eggs must be destroyed immediately! Bean weevil larvae are more harmful and voracious than adults. They are pale yellow in color, the back is covered with white hairs with black tips. If an attack appears, then you can get rid of insects with the help of insecticidal treatments or ... rent guinea fowl from a poultry farmer. Birds will deal with bugs very quickly - for guinea fowls this is a favorite delicacy. nine0004
3. Mice. That's who likes to taste peas besides birds. Summer residents drive mice away from pea beds by sprinkling ground black pepper on the soil or using Freitenmaus, VE - a humane repellent to repel mouse-like rodents.
4. Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne fungal disease. It affects the roots of the plant, and then rises, interfering with the water supply of the crop. You can try to treat this disease with fungicides. All diseased plants must be destroyed to stop the spread of the disease. nine0004
Also check the soil. Too much nitrogen in the soil makes plants more susceptible to disease. You should immediately stop applying nitrogen fertilizers to the soil in case of Fusarium wilt and switch to liquid foliar feeding.
Companions for peas
Most vegetables have plants that grow best next to them and have antagonists.
The best companion plants for peas:
- beans
- carrots
- corn
- cucumbers
- eggplant
- lettuce
- melons
- parsnip
- potatoes
- radish
- spinach
- turnip
Plants that peas should stay away from: onions and garlic.
How to collect and store peas
Harvesting peas is elementary. The main thing is to collect peas as often as possible. The more you choose, the bigger the new pods will grow.
When harvesting, hold the plant with one hand and pinch off the pod with the other. Do not rip the pods off with brute force. So you risk pulling the plant out of the ground.
Fresh peas keep their qualities in the refrigerator for a week, in the freezer, of course, much longer, but freeze with preliminary blanching. Otherwise, after two or three months, the peas will acquire a nasty, bitter taste. With aging and overripening, sugar turns into starch, peas begin to taste bitter. nine0004
Freeze peas as soon as possible after picking, as peas quickly lose moisture and become limp to retain their fresh aroma and sweetness, you will need to act quickly. And don't forget - blanching is a must if you plan to keep freezing for a long time!
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Outdoor cultivation of peas
Green peas are a common, tasty and healthy crop that is in demand in cooking. Let's talk about how peas are grown in open ground later.
Content:
- 1 Biological characteristics
- 2 Choice of sowed material
- 3 Preparatory stage for landing
- 4 Landing process
- 5 Rules for Care
- 6 Collection and storage
Biological characteristics
Growing peas outdoors is not difficult. Modern cultivation technology allows to obtain high yields and product quality.
Pea sprouts
The article will be interesting for both experienced gardeners and beginners, revealing the most important aspects of growing in a country house, field or garden. After studying our advice, you will be able to get the desired crop, and perhaps this crop will become the direction of your business, since the demand for it is quite stable.
Vegetable pea is an annual plant, self-pollinated, white flowers, appear 40 days after sunrise, then a fruit is formed - a bean. Beans are short, medium and very long, depending on the species. nine0004
The purpose of cultivation is to obtain green peas and beans. Green peas are an energy and dietary product widely used in cooking.
Selection of seed
The first thing you need to know is that all varieties of this legume differ in terms of ripening, which will provide you with more than one harvest over 2-3 months.
- The early ones are: Zamira, Misty, Corwin.
- Mid-season: Asana, Abador, Ashton, Sherwood.
- Late maturing varieties: Nicholas, Matrona, Twin.
In addition, peas are divided by variety into:
- sugary, tender, soft and very tasty, which can be consumed together with the peel, since it does not contain coarse fibers;
- brain (shelling), just as tasty, but more suitable for freezing and canning.
- smooth grain, suitable for preparing first courses and cereals.
After choosing the seed, we move on to soil preparation. nine0004
Pre-planting
Remember, there is one simple and reliable method for sorting seeds before planting. We take 1 liter of water, dissolve in it 1 tbsp. l of salt, we add to this liquid the selected ones that have surfaced - they are not suitable for landing, but those that are at the bottom - we wash and dry, here is our seed.
Young shoots of peas
For better germination, the selected material should be soaked. Pour the selected material with warm water and wait for it to swell, changing the liquid every 3-4 hours. nine0004
You can also prepare a mixture - water and growth stimulants, in this case, soak for 3 hours. In general, the soaking process lasts no more than 17 hours, after which we plant the finished seeds. This is the first method. If suddenly, you have not soaked the seeds, we plant them in the ground dry, where they will swell, but you must be prepared for the fact that the sprouts will come out a little later, but stronger.
The process of planting in the ground
One of the important points in planting is the choice of site and its quality. Sandy, acidic and salty lands are strictly contraindicated. The choice of territory is of decisive importance in cultivation technology. nine0004
The area where cultivation is planned must be globally prepared. First of all, it is necessary to level the site, since unevenness, the presence of furrows and lumps will greatly complicate the cleaning process. In addition, the area must be cleared of weeds, especially dicotyledons and perennials.
It is undesirable to sow in low relief areas that are prone to flooding (may be flooded). There is no threat if tomatoes, cabbage, pumpkins were planted before the plant and vice versa, the soil after legumes, peanuts, lentils and peas will be unfavorable. Cereals are considered especially positive. The soil on which peas grew is useful for many crops, the yield of winter wheat increases. nine0004
The first crop of peas
For planting, choose a sunny area, closed from the drafts of the site.
Peas are a crop that is not particularly afraid of the cold, so we sow in the last ten days of April, as soon as the ground dries out from the snow. Varieties that ripen quickly can be planted until mid-July.
It is advisable to plant from the end of April to the beginning of July every 11 days. However, planting before the end of May is considered optimal, since full daylight hours will ensure the formation of flowers and fruits of the crop. nine0004
The area should be sunny, the soil light, it is desirable to prepare it in the autumn, dig up the soil, adding 30 g of potassium chloride and 10 g of urea per m². Upon the arrival of spring, apply 10 g of urea per m² to the ground. Because the trunks will grow with giant branches and low yields.
Fit technology. Legumes are sown in prepared soil, which is dug up and loosened, in pits 6 cm deep, 15 cm wide. The distance between the pits is at least 0.5 m. Per 1 sq. meter enough sowing 60 - 100 seeds. nine0004
In order to protect against birds and insects, the area can be covered with a net or translucent material. Long-awaited sunrises can be expected in a week. Other lettuce plants can be planted between seedlings.
Rules of care
The basis of care is abundant watering with loosening and weeding of the territory. A few weeks after sowing and the appearance of sprouts, it is necessary to carry out the first hilling. For sprouts over 22 cm tall, create a support in the form of stakes, between which stretch ropes or netting, which will allow the stems to curl, and not tangle and break. To get a full harvest, pinch the top shoot of the bush, and the trunk will let out lateral processes. They can also be pinned down later. This procedure must be carried out at dawn. nine0004
Harvesting peas
Irrigation. The plant does not tolerate heat and drought, therefore, in such weather, it needs enhanced watering. During the flowering period, it also needs abundant watering, it is poured several times a week, then weeding and loosening. Water for irrigation should not be icy, not hard in density, flowing.
For deeper watering, it is advisable to install an irrigation system that turns on in the evening and runs throughout the night.
Such watering will not harm the plant, will not wash away its root system, will gradually penetrate into the soil and saturate it with moisture. Externally, the stems will also absorb moisture. In the morning, the irrigation system is turned off, so the plant dries out and does not get sunburned. nine0004
Fertilizer and top dressing. You can combine watering with top dressing with dry mullein, compost, humus and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. This procedure is carried out twice, before the formation of buds and after flowering, autumn can also fertilize the soil.
Pests and diseases. Pea codling moth has always been the most harmful disease of the legume.
Butterfly, which lays eggs on the plant at the time of flowering, as a result, small caterpillars appetizingly eat all areas. In the fight against this pest, you can use chemistry - cyhalothrin. It should be remembered that this drug is used only before the formation of fruits, since it will later penetrate into food. nine0004
Following the path of folk remedies, they use dandelion leaves or onion peel, as well as garlic.
Pour these ingredients in the amount of 2.5 kg with 10 liters of water, leave for 24 hours and spray the plants. This tool also helps in the fight against pea aphids.
Expert opinion
Yuliya Yuryevna
I have a large garden and vegetable garden, several greenhouses. I love modern methods of plant cultivation and soil mulching, and I share my experience.
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Growing peas outdoors is fraught with the appearance of harmful insects. A rather unpleasant pest that can harm the crop is the pea aphid. In addition to peas, it can attack beans and live on wild legumes. This insect is quite large, reaches 5-6 mm. The color is green, bright brownish eyes, rather large tubules, with the help of which aphids absorb plant sap.
The described insect hibernates at the roots of leguminous plants. Pests absorb the juice of all above-ground parts of plants, which greatly inhibits it. The buds begin to dry out and fall off, the fruits are not tied. nine0004
To protect outdoor peas from aphids, it is best to plant early, fast-maturing varieties. If there are wild varieties of this crop on the site, it is better to mow them. If insects have already appeared on plants, you can use Fury, Karate Zeon, Tsunami.
Another variety of uninvited guests is pea grains. These are oval-shaped bugs with a black body, on which brown or gray hairs are visible. The larvae are cream-colored, thick, and have no legs. Winter is experienced in the affected peas. nine0004
As a rule, the described beetles attack peas during the appearance of buds. They eat pollen. Their larvae are much more dangerous. They penetrate inside the pea, feeding on it. In the resulting cavity, the larvae turn into pupae. Adult beetles appear in the spring.
Damaged peas usually show dark spots. It is impossible to eat or try to propagate the plant with such peas.
It is best to grow varieties with an early ripening period. Also, it is important to sort out the crop after harvest, destroying the affected seeds. Before planting, you can soak the peas in a saline solution. The ones that were damaged will float. nine0004
Young plantings of peas in the open field are often affected by weevils. These are oblong bugs no more than 4-5 mm. They overwinter in plant debris. That is why it is so important to keep the beds clean and remove the litter, especially in late autumn.
The described pests appear in early spring, eating the leaves, cutting through the stems or simply eating the growing point. Before planting, we recommend that you dig the site well to a depth of at least 12-13 cm. If the population is very large, you can treat the beds with Karbofos. Also, it is important to observe crop rotation. This measure protects against any pests. nine0004
Ascochitosis is the most dangerous disease. This is a fungus that affects the stems, leaves and ovaries of the bush. A characteristic feature is red-brown spots with a black border. Further, sores and depressions appear on the shoots and pods. Worst of all, if the signs of the disease appeared during the ripening of the beans.
For prevention, it is necessary to plant early varieties, remove litter and crop residues, dig up the soil and observe crop rotation. Bordeaux mixture can be used for treatment.
Collection and storage
Remember that collecting pods promotes the development and maturation of new ones. Therefore, the harvest is provided to you in a day.
The peas are harvested, it is customary to harvest when the peas reach their maximum size, the pod itself acquires a bright color, but before the formation of a grid on it. When a grid appears, the fruits become inedible - hard.
Ripe Peas
If you have sugar beans, pick them when the pod is flat.
Depending on the variety and purpose, the harvested crop can be used in the following ways:
- consumed fresh;
- preserved;
- frozen;
- seeds for future crops.
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