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Seeding grass in summer


How to Plant Grass Seed in Summer (without failing)

2 Comments Sarah The Lawn Chick

It would be irresponsible to start an article like this without acknowledging that summer is one of the worst times of year to plant most types of grass. Just as cold weather can keep grass seeds dormant and prevent them from germinating, hot weather is like trial by fire for your young seedlings. But if you’re determined to establish a lawn from seed in the dog days, I’ll explain how to plant grass seed in summer in today’s article, focusing on tips that will help you succeed where many will fail.

Let’s dive in.

If Not Summer, When?

Spring and early fall are the best times of year to spread grass seed and successfully establish a new lawn, so if you’re considering throwing down some seed in late summer, maybe wait a few weeks to improve your results.

This is especially true for cool-season grasses. The ground better retains moisture in the fall and spring, and there’s more of it so you can cut down on your water usage.

Morning dew or moisture from rainfall can be quickly dried up by the sun during the dog days of summer, but they linger a bit longer to support young grass in the spring and fall.

But if you have the time and resources to water your lawn religiously, you can start a lawn from seed at any time of year.

And some types of grass are quite resilient to the heat and can be established effectively during the summer.

There are also measures that you can take while cultivating your yard to ensure the best chances of success, even when you’re fighting an uphill battle in the heat of summer.

Why Summer Is a Tough Time to Establish a Lawn

Summer offers even the most determined homeowners challenging conditions for growing grass from seed — or even laying sod.

Heat and humidity are not conducive for germination of most grass seeds or the long-term survival of many types of grass.

Certain breeds of grass seeds will not germinate in certain temperatures. Either because it’s too hot or too cold.

Even if your seed does manage to germinate and sprout, it is unlikely that young seedlings will survive long-term without the right conditions (and maintaining those conditions in the brutal heat of July and August requires a lot of work).

Water Needs

Grass seeds also need just the right amount of water.

If it has been a stormy summer, then waterlogged soil will pose a challenge. If the season has been very dry, then the grass seeds will not have enough moisture to sprout – especially once the afternoon heat hits and bakes the soil’s surface to a crispy crust.

Different breeds of grass seed also have different needs for moisture. Some are tolerant of dry weather, while others can survive (and thrive) in a monsoon.

The Threat of Weeds

A sparse lawn is an ample opportunity for weeds to move in, and aggressive annual weed seeds are floating on every gust of summer breeze. Creating a moist and fertile environment for your new grass will also create the perfect environment for aggressive weeds to take root in your yard.

Weeds will compete with grass for resources and make it difficult to get a new lawn established. If your soil is dense, dry or dusty, and compacted, then the soil won’t have enough oxygen to support growth.

If your new lawn germinates and begins to grow, it could quickly be smothered and overtaken by these more aggressive, hardier weeds.

Summer Sun – Friend or Foe?

Summertime also tends to be intensely sunny without many clouds to shield your lawn. This increase in sunlight (and heat) can be another important challenge for consideration.

If your lawn is totally exposed without any trees or bushes that provide shade, then it’s vital to find a type of grass that thrives in full sun.

And even then, if you don’t provide extra water, that hot sun will bake the soil and young seedlings with shallow roots can wilt in a single day.

Giving it Your Best Shot

If you do need to plant grass seed over the summer for one reason or another, there are some things that you can do to overcome some of the environmental challenges that the season poses.

These are the methods I recommend and my best tips to help you learn how to plant grass seed in summer and establish a nice lawn during a tough time of year.

Choose the Right Type of Grass

Not all grass types are suited to all environments, and quality grass seed is expensive. Before you buy, spend a week and be observant about the space you are planning to establish a lawn.

It’s important things to consider these factors when selecting what grass seed to plant.

It’s also important to consider your soil type – is it sandy or heavy clay?

Aeration Before Seeding Can Help

If your yard is barren, or if your lot has a lot of clay, your soil may be compacted. Compacted soil limits the important flow of oxygen and nutrients necessary for young grass roots.

Aerating the lawn area before spreading your seed or tilling the soil to loosen things up can help create ideal conditions for young grass and improve your germination rate with better water penetration, seed to soil contact, and improved airflow.

Using a rototiller to loosen compacted soil prior to seeding

That said, tilling your lot before seeding may bring up long dormant weed seeds to the surface. You may want to do this in advance of planting grass seed so that you can manage any weeds that come up.

No Competition – Weed Control When Starting a Lawn from Seed

Without grass to compete for resources and crowd them out, weeds will always run rampant in your yard. This may include dandelions, crabgrass, and more.

Remove weeds from your yard prior to establishing a new lawn from seed, and accept that you’ll have to do some weed mitigation after your lawn takes hold as well.

You want your new grass to thrive without having to compete for important resources such as water, oxygen, and sunlight.

If you’re killing your lawn and starting over, use a starter fertilizer with pre-emergent (like this one on Amazon, which I’ve used and recommend) to help your lawn take off while preventing crabgrass from germinating.

Cover Seed with a Fertile Mulch

The intense summertime sun can harm your young grass by drying it out. Mulching grass seed helps retain moisture without blocking airflow to the roots. It can also keep hungry birds from devouring your expensive seed.

Grass seed on a bed of rich compost before it is worked into the soil

You can do this by laying a protective layer over the seeds. Do this by leaving:

Using your lawn mower to leave grass clippings on your yard after mowing will also help with this, but I recommend bagging your lawn clippings the first few times you mow a new lawn grown from seeds.

Fertilizing New Grass

Nitrogen and phosphorus are important elements for fertilizing grass seedlings. The Nitrogen helps with green growth and phosphorus is good for supporting healthy root systems.

When you shop for a fertilizer for grass grown from seed, pay attention to the three numbers on the bag.

Screened compost is my go-to top-dressing over seed and can help you build excellent soil to support your lawn long-term. In the summer it’s especially helpful because it’s nutrient rich and retains moisture.

Is Sod a Better Choice in the Summer?

Laying sod in the summer can be tricky. However, if you can afford it, establishing a lawn from sod instead of seed may give you better results as long as you keep up with watering.

Sod can certainly be far more costly than spreading grass seed, but you probably won’t have as many weeds to address at the end of the project, and the results will be nearly instantaneous.

Choosing Seed That Can Germinate & Thrive in Summer Heat

Some types of grass seed are more resilient in high-temperature weather. Having a good understanding of these grass types is important when learning how to plant grass seed in the summer.

If you live in a warmer, southern climate, these are some examples of excellent options for establishing a lawn from seed during summer weather.

A local landscaper or garden center will know the area where you live and your micro-climate. They are always a great resource and will be able to provide further guidance on grasses that thrive in your locality.

Bermuda Grass

Bermuda grass is commonly found in the southern part of the United States and has high heat and drought tolerances.

This grass can withstand the particularly dry summer weather. It goes a step further and has a relatively moderate tolerance for cooler temperatures. This makes Bermuda a popular choice if your area has cool evenings, or if you are living further north in the transitional zone where the temperatures can fluctuate.

Bermuda grass is a resilient, full sun grass, though it may require a bit more maintenance, depending on your area. Its high wear-tolerance makes it a great option for high traffic spots that are completely exposed to the sun. It’s popular on golf courses for this reason.

Bahia Grass

Bahia grass is another breed of grass seed that’s popular for southern lawns. It offers high heat and drought tolerance and is pretty easy to establish in the summer.

Bahia requires less maintenance than Bermuda grass, but it’s also less resilient to wear and doesn’t hold up as well when walked over.

It works well in partially shady areas that still get a fair amount of sun.

Centipede Grass

Though the name may conjure unpleasant images, centipede grass is a favorite in the south due to its resilience and low maintenance requirements.

Centipede grass can withstand high heat, but it is less resistant to drought. That said, it’s incredibly well suited to the hot, humid areas of the Southeastern United States.

Centipede grass is also a good option if you don’t mind regularly watering the lawn. It has a lower tolerance of cool temperatures than the other warm-season grasses, but it has higher shade tolerance than most.

Zoysia Grass

Zoysia grass sounds quite exotic, and thus high maintenance, but nothing could be further from the truth.

This popular type of grass is highly adaptable to a range of environmental conditions. It can withstand high heat, cooler weather, drought, high traffic, and both shady or sunny conditions.

Pair this versatility with the fact that Zoysia has only moderate maintenance requirements, and it’s easy to see why it’s one of the most versatile breeds for seeding in the summer.

Choose the Right Seed For Your Climate

Whatever grass you choose, it’s important that you choose something that will thrive long-term in your climate, not simply in the summer.

If you live in a northern climate, you’ll need to go with a cool season grass seed, or a blend of different cool season grasses.

If you live in the south, you’ll want something tailored to the heat and conditions where you live.

Lawn Enforcement

It’s not impossible to grow grass from seed in the summer months, but tackling this project will require a bit more effort and maintenance compared to establishing a new lawn in late spring or early fall when conditions are more ideal.

There are some measures that you can take to overcome some of the challenges that accompany hot weather seeding. Hopefully, the advice shared in this summer seeding guide will have you admiring a carpet of green grass by fall.

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Tips for seeding your lawn during summer

Kevin Frank, Aaron Hathaway, and Thomas Nikolai, Michigan State University Extension, Department of Plant, Soil and Microbial Sciences -

Summer conditions make it difficult to establish new grass in lawns. Here are some tips if you can’t wait for fall.

Summer is certainly not the ideal time to establish cool-season turfgrasses due to high temperatures, long day-length, disease pressure and especially weed competition. The optimum growing temperatures for cool-season turfgrasses are in the range from 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, so occasionally during some of our warmer stretches of weather the nighttime temperatures might not even fall within this range. Long day-length or more hours of sunlight results in more hours in the day for drying the soil. Maintaining that delicate balance of soil moisture between too wet and too dry is more challenging during the summer due to the extended drying period.

Periods of high temperature, high relative humidity and heavy rains or overwatering can also make new seedings subject to devastating diseases such as Pythium blight. Finally, weed competition from summer annuals such as crabgrass, goosegrass and broadleaf bandits such as purslane, knotweed, clover and prostrate spurge can quickly take over a new establishment in the summer if herbicides are not used.

If you’re still interested in establishing in the summer, keep on reading. If not, wait for the optimum establishment time of late August and early September.

Weed control

Weed control during summer establishment is definitely one of the keys to success or failure. Tupersan (a.i. siduron) is the traditional standby for controlling weeds during seeded turfgrass establishment. Tenacity (a.i. mesotrione) can also be used safely at the time of seeding. There are also combination products with quinclorac and carfentrazone that provide control of broadleaf weeds in addition to crabgrass and goosegrass. Mesotrione and siduron can be applied on the day of seeding of cool season turfgrasses for control of crabgrass during establishment. Quinclorac + carfentrazone (SquareOne) can be applied early after turfgrass seeding (seven days after emergence) to control crabgrass and broadleaves.

Always read, understand and follow the label directions. Mention or exclusion of specific products does not represent an endorsement or condemnation of any product by Michigan State University.


Weed control is critical for summer turfgrass establishment.
Photo credit: Kevin Frank, MSU

Fertilizer at seeding

At the time of seeding, apply a starter fertilizer at a rate of 1 pound N per 1,000 square feet to help those young seedlings get established. A starter fertilizer is a fertilizer with an N:P2O5 ratio similar to 1:1 or 1:1.5. Under the phosphorus restrictions in place in Michigan, starter fertilizer is still allowed for turfgrass establishment. The maximum amount of phosphorus that can be applied in a single application is 1.5 pounds P2O5 per 1,000 square feet with a yearly maximum of 2.5 pounds P2O5 per 1,000 square feet.

If you have the time to take a soil test, follow the soil test recommendations for establishment. Homeowners can purchase a soil testing kit from the Michigan State University Extension bookstore. More information on soil testing can be found at MSU Soil Test.com.

Mulches for moisture retention

Make sure to keep the seeded area moist throughout establishment. In many cases, this may require watering several times a day. A good mulch cover will help the area stay moist so the site may be watered less frequently. Water lightly when irrigating; there is no need to see water puddling or running off the site.

Dr. Frank's work is funded in part by MSU's AgBioResearch.

This article was published by Michigan State University Extension. For more information, visit https://extension.msu.edu. To have a digest of information delivered straight to your email inbox, visit https://extension.msu.edu/newsletters. To contact an expert in your area, visit https://extension.msu.edu/experts, or call 888-MSUE4MI (888-678-3464).

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how to save grass from the sun

The green lawn on the site is an excellent place for relaxation, and almost every owner tries to take at least a couple of meters under the green zone. But it happens that they began to arrange the site in the summer, when hot days came and the time for planting grass passed. In this case, there are two options left: either wait for the fall, when the temperature drops and a more favorable time for sowing comes, or sow the lawn with heat at your own peril and risk.

Naturally, not every housewife will have the patience to wait until a cold snap, because weeds will instantly settle in the empty land. Yes, this is not necessary. If you sow with certain precautions and tricks, then even the worst heat will not spoil the seedlings. How best to plant a lawn in the summer - we will consider in detail.

Contents

Soil correction

Despite the fact that all lawn grasses have a good survival rate on any soil, the soil composition still needs to be corrected. If the soil is clayey, then when digging it, add peat, sand and humus (in equal proportions), and if it is sandy, then add more dense soil, for example, forest.

Focus on how you feel: take a lump of soil in your hand and try to form a ball out of it. If it turns out very dense - the earth is heavy, it must be made lighter (dilute with sand or peat). If the ball rolls, but is loose and ready to fall apart, the soil is normal. If it is impossible to roll at all, then the soil is too crumbly and will not hold moisture.

If the land is infertile, remove it half a meter deep and dilute it with useful components - peat, humus, sand, etc., or fill it with ready-made soil

It does not hurt to apply a complex fertilizer that will speed up the germination of seeds and give them additional nutrition.

The rest of the soil preparation is the usual: remove debris, stones, plant roots, level the site, mark the boundaries.

Protecting soil from drying out

So, the soil is loosened, cleaned and ready to receive seeds. But don't rush. In summer, under the scorching sun, the earth dries up instantly, and this harms good germination. Therefore, first of all, create protection in the earth itself from its rapid drying. To do this, remove all the soil by 30 centimeters, tamp the bottom and line it with cardboard. It can be all kinds of boxes, newspapers in several layers, etc.

Such a layer does not interfere with the circulation of air in the soil, but will retain water in the outer layers, not letting it through deeply. And the blades of grass will not lack moisture. By the way, the cardboard itself perfectly absorbs moisture, and then gradually gives it away. So the soil will be wetter than usual. By autumn, the paper layer will rot, and this will end its function.

Surface leveling

Spread the removed soil over the cardboard and tamp it down with a roller, and in narrow areas with a regular short board. Lay out the board, starting from the edge of the site, and jump on it. Under the force of weight, the earth is leveled. You can involve the kids in this activity. They are happy to jump on the boards.

In order to level the surface of the earth as much as possible after compaction, walk on it with the back of the rake. They will pull off the excess, and the soil will become smooth as a knee. If small pebbles are picked out under the rake, it is better to remove them immediately, since the blades of grass at these points will still not germinate, and the turf will turn out to be uneven.

Trampling with a board is useful for areas where a bulky roller cannot turn around: between paths, in flowerbeds and winding ridges

Now you can proceed to the most crucial moment - planting seeds. Summer sowing is enough to produce according to the norms indicated on the package with the herbal mixture. An unexpected plus of planting in the heat is the weak germination of weeds. If in spring they pour out almost in the same amount as blades of grass, then in summer (starting from the second half of July) their activity decreases sharply. And while the so-called autumn weeds hatch, the lawn has time to come into full force and suppress them.

Time and seeding density

It is better to plant grass in the evening so that it does not immediately start to fry the summer sun. Sprinkle the soil well before planting.

The hotter the weather, the longer it takes to water the prepared soil so that it is saturated with moisture at least 5 cm deep

If there are still puddles on the ground (photo 1) - sow early, you need to wait until the surface absorbs all the water and slightly hardens (photo 2)

Wait until completely absorbed and spread the seeds. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site is small, it is better to first wake up the edges, and then the rest of the area. This will ensure that the grass is evenly distributed.

After thoroughly filling the edges of the plot, start sowing the entire area, focusing on the application rates indicated on the package with herbal mixture

After sowing, be sure to mulch the area with a layer of dry soil or peat. Grass should hide from the sun. After spreading the mulch, do not spill it, but leave it dry. So it is easier to roll on to the seeds and press them into the wet ground. To press down the mixture, use the same board or roller.

Sun protection for blades of grass

In spring or autumn, these events would be enough for the grass to give good shoots. But in summer, the temperature of the upper layers of the soil warms up so much that the hatched seeds can easily burn out. And if they manage to germinate, then all the power of the sun's rays will fall on the tender blades of grass. To save seedlings, immediately after sowing, cover the entire area with non-woven white material. It will reflect the rays and lower the temperature of the soil. And the moisture will evaporate less.

At the edges of the lawn, the material is fixed with boards, reinforcement or any other heavy objects, and if the area is large, then it is better to press down the middle. To do this, drive in pegs in the corners and pull the twine from the edges of the site (crosswise) so that it passes through the center, lowering the thread flush with the soil. The twine will press the material and prevent it from rising from the wind.

Lightweight non-woven fabric does not interfere with the passage of oxygen into the soil, but reflects a significant part of the harmful rays of the sun that sizzle tender shoots

The finished lawn should be watered daily (morning and evening), spraying water in a fine rain over the non-woven material. It will perfectly let the moisture inside and will not allow it to evaporate quickly. By the way, in uneven areas where there is a slope in one direction, such a shelter will allow you to avoid washing out the seeds and pulling them into a low place with streams of water. Therefore, shoots will be more uniform and friendly.

The first thin blades of grass will begin to break through about a week after planting, and if the site is not covered, then the seedlings will be delayed for another week

With careful watering, the first blades of grass will appear in a week. Wait until the grass grows to 3-4 cm and only then remove the shelter. Then pull out all the weeds with your hands and mow the lawn. The first blades of grass will be thin, so it is advisable not to walk on the lawn until it gets stronger. You will see it on the powerful turf and juicy, thick greenery.

Another nuance of summer planting - do not feed young shoots with fertilizers, especially nitrogen ones. At high temperatures, they can burn the root system. Better wait until the rainy season, or don't apply at all, especially if you added fertilizer when preparing the soil. The supply of food on fresh soil is more than enough for the grass, and excess forcing of growth weakens fragile roots and leads to freezing of certain areas in winter.

This is what a summer lawn looks like in early October - with a thick turf, a healthy juicy color, and a good chance for it to winter well

Grass planted in July already looks fully formed in early autumn. It winters well, freezes less often than during autumn planting. In addition, if the mixture sprouts poorly (and this also depends on the quality of the seeds!), You will have time to sow the bald spots before the onset of cold weather. But in this case, you will have to cover each restored place with non-woven material in order to ensure a normal climate for the crops, or re-cover the entire area, as you did in the case of the first sowing.

As you can see, with proper care, a beautiful lawn can be grown even in the heat. Roses grow in Siberia, so why can't grass grow in summer?! It all depends on the diligence of the owners ...