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Repairing grass patches


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If you have noticed patches in grass, you may be considering some lawn repair this weekend. Expert gardeners will know that it is possible to prevent and cure patchy grass quickly and fairly easily, however, before you begin, it is worth working out what might be causing them in the first place so that they don't return again quickly.

Some reasons for patches in grass will be easy to identify: wear and tear from the kids' lively football games and the dog are two obvious places to lay them blame, but bare or brown patches in lawns might be down to disease instead, which you will need to deal with differently.

So, if you’re looking to maintain your lush greenery – or you require some emergency lawn patch remedies – these expert tips are for you.

How to repair patches in grass

(Image credit: Annaick Guitteny)

Before you start to working out whether now is a good time to plant grass seed, you need to work out why you have patches in your lawn.  

Gardening expert Saul Walker explains: ‘Patchy grass is usually caused by a myriad of problems from diseases, such as Red Thread and Snow Mould, pest damage, like Leatherjackets and Chafer Bug Grubs.’  

Bare patches in grass can appear when you dethatch a lawn, too.

Saul Walker goes on to explain, patches in grass can often be caused by constant use, 'poor drainage or a poor top.' The latter is particularly common in newly built properties. 'Identifying which problem you have and remedying it is always the first step in reviving your lawn before either repairing or replacing it,' he says. 

Also investigate when to add lime to lawns, as the pH of the soil could be causing the patches and poor health of the grass.

1. Penetrate grass roots with aeration 

Saul, along with garden expert Noah James , recommends the process of aeration that will ‘increase airflow to the roots, encouraging oxygen for root health.’ Stronger roots grow deeper and promote a verdant lawn that is more resistant to future patching. The process also eases soil compaction for a versatile lawn for the cooler seasons ahead. 

2. Sow grass seed 

Perhaps the most impactful way to cure your patchy grass begins with a new fast-growing grass seed. Try to buy the same grass seed as you have used in the past as this will give you a consistent-looking lawn.

Before sowing, cut and lift out the bare or brown patch in a square and loosen the soil beneath. Replace the removed sod with top soil or compost, or a mixture of both, then scatter the seeds over the area, following the instructions for distribution on the seed packet.

Saul suggests that planting grass seed is 'best undertaken in the cooler, moister seasons of spring and fall to allow for the best establishment – after which regular scarification and aeration will keep your lawn in its best condition.’

Once you have done this, cover the seed with a little more top soil or compost (or both) so that you're not just providing birds with a lovely snack, and water carefully. If birds are a problem, you could peg a section of polythene over the seeded patch to protect the area and to stimulate germination.

3. Top-dress with nutrient-rich soil  

One way to cure your grass patches and to keep your lawn green and thick is through the process of topdressing; as Noah recommends:

'Top-dressing with nutrient-rich soil can help make air, water, and nutrients available to the grassroots as it breaks down over time.' 

The process encourages the grass to re-root and become thicker – and will not only restore your grass – but promote a healthier plot for the rest of summer.  

4. Regulate your mowing 

While it may seem entirely contradictory, the secret to patch-free grass is in a regular schedule with the lawn mower. 

Founder of Garden’s Whisper , Stephen Webb suggests you should 'frequently mow at least once a week during the growing season, and three times a month in winter.' He adds that grass should be kept 'two inches above the ground'.  

5.  Patch with sod 

Another quick tip that will heal your patchy grass? Founder at Evergreen Seeds , Emma Sophie, recommends laying sod at any point in the season in a way that is similar to how you would patch with seeds. 

As with seeds, try to buy sod from the same supplier as you got it from first time around, or try to ensure you have the same type of grass to ensure an even finish.

You will need to cut out the patchy grass in a square or rectangular shape to match the shape and size of the section of sod, and loosen the soil beneath with a garden fork. 

‘Keep the area an inch below so that it can be leveled up with the ground. Once this is done, cut a piece of sod and fix it on the repair site. Gently press the patch and walk on it, so it gets settled down. Then water the area properly so that it goes down in the soil,’ Emma explains. 

Why are there brown patches in my lawn?

Brown patches in a lawn may be one of two things. Firstly, your grass may just be dormant in areas, which means it will come back. Or, it could be diseased or dead, and of course it's important to know the difference before you repair the lawn. 

Dormant grass should still have healthy roots so won't come away if you grab a handful and gently pull it. However, bear in mind that dormant patches will be large, as grass doesn't become dormant in small, isolated areas. Why does grass become dormant and go brown? These tend to be cold-season grasses that don't like heat, or warm-season grasses that don't like the cold; once the temperature is more favorable, they will grow green again. To avoid this in future, combine warm- and cool-season grass seed when you sow.

Diseased patches may need diagnosis from a lawn repair professional, who can then deal with whatever is afflicting it.

Dead grass will come away in your hand if you grab a handful and gently pull it. With dead brown patches in grass, you will need to replace the sod or reseed the patch. With dormant patches.

Will brown patches in a lawn grow green again?

Provided the grass isn't diseased or dead, grass will grow green again when the temperatures are right for it, and if you water it regularly once the frosts have passed.

What causes bare patches in lawns?

Bare patches in lawns are generally caused by wear – and is easily fixed if you can persuade the kids to play elsewhere, rethink where you position your water slide or take a different route to the garden shed, or lay a path to replace the bare patches.

Bare patches can also be caused by excessive shade. You may be able to turn this around by pruning shrubs and trees, by sowing a shade-tolerant grass seed and by not cutting the grass too short. This area of lawn will also need feeding. 

And, of course, patches may be caused by dog urine.

How to repair dog urine patches in a lawn

Dead grass patches in a lawn or yellow patches in a lawn are often caused by dog urine. It is not easy to stop your dog peeing, but there are actions you can take to minimize the damage. 

Dilute the dog pee: this really only works if you are prepared to follow your dog out into the garden each and every time then turn a hose or watering can on to it immediately after the dog has done his/her business.  

Put on the sprinkler in dry weather: your lawn will have a better chance of being patch-free if you can keep it damp, which means keeping it well-watered in dry spells. 

Keep the lawn long: doing so will help retain moisture in the grass, which will lessen the likelihood of brown patches.

Feed the lawn: a healthy lawn is less likely to suffer from urine burn. 

Lucy Searle has written about interiors, property and gardens since 1990, working her way around the interiors departments of women's magazines before switching to interiors-only titles in the mid-nineties. She was Associate Editor on Ideal Home, and Launch Editor of 4Homes magazine, before moving into digital in 2007, launching Channel 4's flagship website, Channel4.com/4homes. In 2018, Lucy took on the role of Global Editor in Chief for Realhomes.com, taking the site from a small magazine add-on to a global success. She was asked to repeat that success at Homes & Gardens, where she has also taken on the editorship of the magazine.  

How to Fix Patchy Grass and Bare Spots in Your Lawn

By

Kelly Burke

Kelly Burke

Kelly Burke is a professional turf manager for a manicured corporate campus in New England. He is accredited in organic land care and is a licensed pesticide applicator. He formerly managed the turfgrass as a golf course superintendent and has held several senior management positions at private country clubs overseeing high maintenance lawns.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

Updated on 10/11/22

Reviewed by

Kathleen Miller

Reviewed by Kathleen Miller

Kathleen Miller is a highly-regarded Master Gardener and Horticulturist who shares her knowledge of sustainable living, organic gardening, farming, and landscape design. She founded Gaia's Farm and Gardens, a working sustainable permaculture farm, and writes for Gaia Grows, a local newspaper column.  She has over 30 years of experience in gardening and sustainable farming.

Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board

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Project Overview

Bare patches in an otherwise full, healthy lawn may be the result of pet urine, heavy foot or vehicle traffic, infestations by grubs or other pests, or a variety of other causes. There are several ways to effectively patch these areas, but you also need to consider the causes and correct them if you can.

For example, if a bare patch occurs because natural foot traffic continually pounds one area, no fix will be permanent unless you also solve the traffic flow issue. And if the bald spots are caused by a lawn grub problem, new bare patches will crop up as soon as you repair the old ones—unless you address the grubs.

There are two easy methods for restoring bald patches in your lawn: reseeding and patching with sod.

Before You Begin

Examine the bare patch or patches to determine the underlying cause and address the problem. Then, consider the patch method that's best for your situation and the right time of year to do it,

Patching with seed:

Patching with sod:

Lawn Repair: Quick Guide

1. Patch your lawn. Fix bare or thin spots. Note that if you have a St. Augustine lawn, a better option is to pull up dead turf or edge out bare spots.

2. Provide water. Frequent watering is important for new seed and sod. However, make sure not to drown your soil; rather, keep it moist.

3. Feed the lawn. After six to eight weeks, provide the necessary nutrients that your grass needs to thrive.

4. Exterminate pests and remove weeds. Make sure your weed or bug control products can be used on new grass.

Equipment / Tools

Materials

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How to Reseed Bare Patches

A very easy and inexpensive method of patching bare spots is with seed. It only takes about 20 minutes of your time, plus some upkeep until the first or second mowing. The drawback is that it will take several weeks for the patch to be mowable, and as much as six months for it to fully blend into the rest of your lawn.

  1. Rake the Area

    Rake and remove any debris or dead grass from the area, using a garden rake. Now is also the time to examine the area for grub damage. If the damaged patch of lawn pulls up easily, like a rug being lifted, you may have a grub problem that needs correcting.

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  2. Loosen the Soil

    Break up the soil with a hard-toothed lawn rake or a garden cultivator. If the soil seems heavily compacted, you might consider aerating it with a core aeration tool. This simple manual tool cuts aeration holes in the soil when you drive it into the ground with your foot.

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  3. Amend the Soil

    Sprinkle several inches of compost or loamy soil and mix it into the existing soil with the rake. Turn the rake upside down and use the top edge to even out the surface, spreading some of the topdressing into the adjacent areas.

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  4. Spread the Seeds

    Sprinkle grass seed evenly across the patch area, thick enough to cover the surface but not so thick that the seeds pile up on top of one another. Use an appropriate seed for your region and micro-climate (sun or shade). Perennial ryegrass should be a part of the blend because it will quickly germinate.

    Tip

    Do not fertilize yet. While this step was once recommended, most experts suggest that fertilizers are not useful until after the grasses are well established.

    Some grass seed products marketed as "one step" have a very weak starter fertilizer and compost already mixed in. And some contain a mixture of recycled paper material designed to keep the seeds in place and absorb moisture as they germinate. There is nothing wrong with these products, but you can patch bare areas just as effectively—and more economically—with plain grass seed.

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  5. Rake the Seeds

    Lightly rake in the seed to distribute it evenly. This will also cover some of the seed with a thin layer of soil, which can help keep it in place. Until the seeds germinate, you may need to protect the area from birds who love to eat the seed and new shoots. Using reflective tape or pinwheels mounted on short stakes can help deter them.

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  6. Begin Watering

    Lightly water the area. Keep the seeds moist throughout the day. If hot weather is a problem, you can use a sheet of burlap to cover the patch. This will provide shade and keep the germinating seeds from drying out. Another method is to spread a thin layer of wheat straw over the seeded area to hold the seeds in place and keep them moist.

    Your patch area will require light watering daily—or perhaps even twice daily—for the first 10 days or so, until the seeds germinate and sprout. Keep watering every two days for another month or so; then you can reduce watering to weekly as the new grass becomes mature.

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  7. Mow When Ready

    Allow the grass to grow slightly longer than the rest of your lawn until the color of the patched area begins to blend in with the rest of your lawn. This may mean mowing around it for two or three mowing cycles. Some seed manufacturers suggest waiting a full seven weeks before mowing new grass.

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How to Patch Bare Patches With Sod

A quicker method than seeding is to fill the bare spot with a patch cut from a roll of grass sod. This is a good method if you have several bare patches to treat. A roll of sod is usually less than $10, and you can cut many patches from a single roll. Within a couple of weeks, you'll have an acceptable patch that has blended in with the surrounding grass.

  1. Cut a Sod Patch

    Use a sharp shovel or garden knife to cut a patch of sod grass that is slightly bigger than the bare area in your lawn. The patch should extend 2 inches or so beyond the edges of the bare spot into the healthy grass area.

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  2. Cut Out the Old Turf

    Place the sod patch over the bare spot. Use a sharp shovel or garden knife to "trace" around the sod patch into the healthy lawn around the bare spot. Remove the sod patch, then remove the dead grass and the ring of healthy grass around the bare patch, using a hand cultivator. Remove a layer of soil below the grass: The goal is to dig down slightly so that the sod patch will sit down at the same level as the rest of your lawn.

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  3. Prepare the Soil

    Loosen up the soil in your patch area, using a shovel, garden rake, or cultivator. You want the soil nice and loose so that the roots of the sod patch can quickly grow down and anchor in the soil.

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  4. Plant the Sod Patch

    Place the sod patch into the excavated area, and compress it into the ground by walking on it repeatedly. Water immediately, and repeat watering two or three times a day for several days, until the sod patch is bonded and is beginning to grow actively.

    Within two weeks or so, your sod patch should be seamless and indistinguishable from the rest of your lawn, but it will take as much as six weeks to be fully rooted. Don't be surprised if it is a slightly different color at first; this will disappear soon.

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Best Sod Installation Services

Watch Now: 2 Key Lawn Care Tips

Article Sources

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

  1. University of Maryland Extension, Lawn Renovation and Overseeding

  2. University of Minnesota Exension, Seeding and sodding home lawns

Lawn repair on site

Lawn repair

Often at the end of the summer, due to autumn rains, it may be necessary to "repair" the lawn. Lawn repair should be carried out on all damaged areas, sparse, burnt, etc.

Local lawn damage can be caused by various causes:

- grass in some places can be burned by the sun's rays;

- plants may suffer from an overdose of fertilizers;

nine0002 - excrement of various animals can harm the lawn grass cover;

- lawn grass can be damaged by fungal diseases.

There are several basic techniques for surveying a lawn to assess its condition and how difficult it is to "repair".

First of all, it is necessary to carefully inspect the lawn and determine how much it is clogged with perennial weeds, mosses, bryozoans, coarse grasses. In case of excessive infestation, the lawn will have to be sown again - prepare the soil and sow mixtures of lawn grass. In addition, it is necessary to identify all anthills formed on the surface of the lawn, ejections of earthworms, toadstool rings, bumps, depressions, uneven edges, etc. All of these areas are subject to restoration. nine0003

Do not forget that after the first rain, the bald spots that have arisen on the site of plants burned out by chemicals or fertilizers will turn into a miniature swamp.

Deprived of the root grid, the turf will literally begin to spread, the water will wash away the fertile layer of soil into the drainage ditch, and, according to the inexorable laws of soil erosion, a hole is formed. Not only will potholes ruin the look of your lawn, they can harbor mosses and weeds, algae and fungus. Therefore, it is necessary to repair the lawn as soon as possible. nine0003

There are various lawn repair techniques. For example, if depressions or bumps have formed on the lawn. Bumps, peeled off by a lawn mower, are predisposed to baldness. Hollows are usually caused by poor soil compaction when laying the lawn or organic material rotting in it. In these cases, the repair of the lawn is carried out as follows, the sod is cut with a crescent-shaped spade, to its entire depth, the edges are turned in both directions, after which the soil is added or removed to the desired level. Sod is laid on level ground and watered well. nine0003

If “bald patches” or “bald spots” form, they are eliminated. A template cut out of plywood is applied to the affected area and the herbage with roots is cut along the contour of the template and this section of the turf is completely removed.

The soil is well worked with a pitchfork and sod with good vegetation of the appropriate size is applied to the affected area (you can oversow the seeds of the appropriate grass mixture).

Lawn edges are repaired in the same way. First, using a template, cut out the sod around the damaged edge. Then it is turned inward with the damaged end. The whole edge is slightly pushed out, cut off at the same level with the lawn, and the cut fragment is filled with the damaged edge turned inward. The gaps are covered with fertile soil, the seeds are leveled and sown. After that, it remains to remove traces of the earth, water the repaired area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe lawn and keep it moist until the seams are connected. nine0003

When repairing the lawn, in autumn it is necessary to prepare the soil and calculate the overseeding taking into account weather conditions - so that the height of the new grass stand before winter is about 10 cm. However, the so-called late pre-winter overseeding can be carried out. In this case, overseeding is carried out in prepared soil and lightly rolled with a roller, with the expectation that they will sprout only in early spring, after the snow has melted.

With the onset of frost after damp autumn weather, there is a danger of frost formation on the lawn. This is very dangerous for the root system of plants and can lead to the fact that they will not tolerate winter well. nine0003

Therefore, the repair of the lawn in the spring will directly depend on how you prepared the lawn for the winter and looked after it in the winter.

Often, after the snow melts in the spring, bald spots form on the lawn, this happens all for the same reasons. In the spring, lawn repairs can be carried out in several ways.

It is necessary to wait until the snow has completely melted and the soil has dried out a little. Then the damaged areas must be carefully combed with a fan rake, i.e. remove dead grass and other debris, pierce the lawn to increase the intensity of air exchange and to release the formed harmful gases in the upper layers of the soil. Then, the prepared areas are oversown with seeds selected for this type of lawn. And be sure to carry out mulching from above with fertile soil, with a layer of no more than 1 cm. This method of lawn repair is no less effective, but requires less labor. nine0003

Lawn repair with sod removal, more labor intensive. You also need to wait until the ground dries. Then, having found the damaged areas, they are completely cut out with a layer of turf. This place is covered with a layer of fertile earth, carefully rammed, in order to avoid depressions at this place. Sow seeds and mulch with a thin layer of earth.

After repairing the lawn in one way or another, it is imperative to feed it with fertilizers. And the places of overseeding must be watered every day until shoots appear. nine0003

Thus, it is worth remembering that the annual lawn repair can be avoided by carefully following all the recommendations for lawn care.

Lawn repair and restoration. Lawn care

Lawn repair and restoration

Any lawn needs systematic care, and in the absence of care, it gradually degenerates and needs to be repaired. Lawn care procedures include loosening and aerating the lawn (turf), watering the lawn, mulching the lawn, top dressing the lawn and overseeding the lawn (lawn grass cover), lawn weed control and lawn disease control, and regular mowing of the grass stand (lawn mowing). Maintenance procedures also include lawn repair and lawn restoration. Let's describe the lawn repair procedure in more detail, especially since it includes almost all other lawn care procedures. nine0003

As an example of lawn repair, let's consider the repair of parterre lawn, as the most demanding on the quality of the grass mixture and the regularity of all maintenance procedures. Even an ideal parterre lawn needs to be mulched at least once a month. Defects that require painstaking and time-consuming repair of the lawn are: bald patches of the lawn (grass cover), irregularities in the form of depressions and bumps, areas overgrown with weeds, moss on the lawn and felt, affected by diseases and chemicals, trampled and dried areas. nine0003

Bald patches in grass cover due to insufficiently careful vertical alignment in preparation for sowing and laying rolls (roll lawn). Insufficient compaction of the top layer also leads to washing out of the soil and the formation of irregularities in the form of bumps and depressions. Surface irregularities cause the lawnmower to cut bald spots and the lawn needs to be repaired. Repair of the lawn in this case will consist in cutting the bumps and filling the hollows with fertile soil, followed by overseeding with grass mixture. nine0003

Weeds are a serious problem for the lawn. Careful care promotes the growth of lawn grass, however, with irregular care in the lawn, weeds begin to grow better. Parterre lawn weeds are any broad-leaved flowering plants. With regular mowing of grass, weeds disappear on their own. On small areas of parterre lawns, weed control is carried out manually. The easiest way to do this is after watering, as weeds are removed from the moist soil with roots. In severely neglected cases, lawn repair will consist of treating the soil with herbicides. nine0003

The appearance of felt and moss on the lawn disrupts the natural air supply of the soil. Lawn repair consists in restoring its aeration by combing out moss and felt with a rake, and if they are strongly compacted, by piercing the lawn with a pitchfork or a lawn perforator.

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