Kitchen cupboard painting

Painting Kitchen Cabinets

A fresh coat of cabinet paint can update the look of your entire kitchen, since cabinets are such a strong focal point. But contrary to what you might see on Instagram or Pinterest, the transformation won't happen overnight. "This isn't a lazy Sunday project," says Sherry Petersik, who, along with her husband, chronicles a variety of decorating projects on her popular blog Young House Love.

We're not trying to talk you out of this DIY home-improvement project — painting kitchen cabinets really is one of the best ways to breathe new life into a tired kitchen. But if you don't go about it properly, you could waste hours upon hours and end up with a kitchen that looks worse, not better.

The experts at the Good Housekeeping Institute have decades of experience testing all of the products used in this project, from the cabinet paint itself to paint sprayers, paintbrushes for home projects and other application tools. For this how-to article, we combined those findings with insights from pros who specialize in cabinet refinishing.

It will take some time and effort on your part, but armed with our step-by-step guide, your cabinets will look new again for a fraction of the cost of replacement units.

Step 1: Assess your cabinets

Not all kitchen cabinets can be painted. The best candidates are wood cabinets with plain, simple fronts, often referred to as Shaker style. Cabinets with intricate details and applied moldings will be harder to paint, and pros don't recommend refinishing cabinets covered in plastic laminate or rigid thermofoil, since paint doesn't adhere well to those glossy surfaces.

If in doubt, run a test on an inconspicuous area, like the inside of a base corner cabinet. “We'll apply a small area of primer, let it dry overnight and then attempt to scratch it off the next day,” says Nick Slavik, a professional painter based in New Prague, Minnesota, and the host of the Ask a Painter Live show on Facebook. "If you can't scratch it off, you'll have proper adhesion."

Consider the condition of the cabinets too. "If there's a lot of water damage, or the doors are falling off their hinges, you're better off replacing the units," says Devyn Doyle, owner of VI Painting in Eagan, Minnesota, and a member of the Painting Contractors Association. It's also important to note any heavy grain pattern, typical of species like oak and walnut, since the texture will likely show through, even after a couple of fresh coats of paint. Fine-grained species, like cherry and maple, have a silky-smooth texture that's more conducive to refinishing.

Step 2: Come up with a realistic schedule

OK, brace yourself: To do the job right, you need to budget at least 40 hours for the project. But you'll save a bundle, compared with hiring the job out. "Most kitchens will cost $4,000 to $6,000 for a professional finish," Slavik says. You can do the work yourself for less than $250. Enlisting a helper or two will make the work go faster, and the extra hands will be useful when handling large cabinet doors and other heavy or unwieldy objects.

Step 3: Gather

all

Having to run back to the home center after the work gets underway is a huge time waster. Here's a list of the basics:

Drop cloths
Painter's tape
Ladder
Drill or screwdriver
Degreasing agent
Sponges
Wood filler
Putty knife
Sandpaper (assorted grits)
Shop vac
Primer
Paint
Paint trays and liners
Applicators (sprayer or brush and roller)

Choosing the right paint is essential to a smooth, durable finish. Pros recommend enamel paints specially formulated for cabinets and other high-touch surfaces. "Standard wall paint will leave you with a soft, tacky finish," Slavik says. Doyle agrees and usually goes with a European brand called Ilva for its adhesion and durability, but it can run more than $100 per gallon.

Based on Good Housekeeping's latest paint tests, our experts recommend Benjamin Moore's Advance, specially formulated with kitchen cabinets in mind. It goes on smooth and easy and cures to an exceptionally hard, furniture-grade finish that can stand up to the busiest kitchens.

Experts at the Good Housekeeping Institute use an abrasion machine to determine how well cabinet paints can stand up to the wear and tear of a busy kitchen.

Now let's talk applicators. Every pro we talked to uses a paint sprayer on cabinets. Not only does using the power tool result in beautiful, even coverage, but it's also about 10 times faster than painting with a brush, and speed is crucial to a pro's bottom line. Of course, pros are painting every day, so sprayers are worth the investment. But our experts find many other uses for the equipment, from refinishing furniture to painting and staining decks, fences and other exterior surfaces. In our latest tests, the Wagner Control Spray Max was named best value paint sprayer on the strength of its competitive price and versatility, including its ability to spray paint, wood stains and polyurethane finishes.

If you go the manual route, experts recommend a two-inch angled brush for cutting into the inside corners and crevices of cabinets and a roller for flat surface areas. Be sure to pick the right paint roller nap:

"A traditional woven roller will create too much texturing in your finish, so opt for a finer material, such as a microfiber option, to ensure an ultrasmooth finish,” says Nicole Gibbons, founder of the paint brand Clare. A mini-size roller that's around 4.5 inches wide is best for smaller surface areas, like cabinets.

Step 4: Remove the doors and drawers

With a schedule set and your supplies in hand, you're ready to get started. First things first, empty the cabinets, clear the counters and move any furniture that's in the way. Then cover the backsplash, counters and floor with drop cloths, builder's paper or plastic tarps.

Many DIYers make the mistake of trying to save time by refinishing their cabinets in place. Don't do it! "Your cabinets and hardware will start to chip and show signs of wear within a month — or even immediately," Petersik warns.

Instead, use a drill or screwdriver to remove all the doors, drawers and hardware. Because they'll need to go back in the same place, use numbered labels to help you remember where everything goes. A piece of masking tape stuck to the back of each component will do just fine. Write its exact location (e.g., "above sink, left") so there will be no guessing where it goes later. Then stash screws and hinges in a jar for safekeeping.

Step 5: Prep the surfaces

Good prep work starts with a thorough cleaning. "No matter how clean you think your kitchen is, you need to wipe everything down with a grease remover," says Don Fahrbach, president of professional painting company PNP Craftsmen in New York City. Otherwise, when you add a water-based paint to an oil-covered door, the paint won't stick. He recommends a paint-prep degreaser called Klean Strip TSP Substitute and a nonabrasive scrub sponge for stuck-on spots.

Once the doors and drawers are clean and dry, use wood filler to repair any cracks or chips. Then hit every surface with sandpaper; the goal is to knock the shine off so that the new coatings have something to grab onto.

"We start with 180-grit sanding sponges, catch the dust with a shop vac, then use a damp microfiber rag to remove any last dust," Slavik says.

Next, apply the primer coat, either outdoors or in a well-ventilated part of the house. This will help conceal any stains or graining and help with the adhesion of the finish coat. Before reaching for the sprayer or brush, it's important to sand the surface again, this time with an ultrafine 220-grit sandpaper. These extra steps stretch out the project, but they're the only way to get proper adhesion and an A-plus finish.

Step 6: Apply the paint

All right, time to add some color. Speaking of which, given how time-consuming cabinet refinishing is, you won't want to do it again anytime soon. Experts advise painting a poster board with a sample can of paint in the color you're considering. Then, hang it next to your backsplash and appliances to make sure it really works.

Whether you're using a paint sprayer or brush, start with the doors and drawers; they take the longest, since you need to paint both sides and let them fully dry in between the two top coats. Beginning with the back sides, apply one coat, wait 24 hours, then move on to the second coat. The following day, flip the doors and drawers over and paint the first coat on your front-facing sides. Wait 24 hours before painting the second coat. Use the drying time in between coats to paint the insides of the cabinets.

Step 7: Reassemble the cabinets

Wait 24 hours (or several days, if you can) after applying the final coat before reinstalling the doors and drawers. This will give the paint time to dry and cure to a hard, enamel-like finish. If you rush the process and accidentally smudge some of the paint, you'll have to sand the door and repaint the surface. Trust us, it's worth the wait.

"Painting cabinets can be tedious, but if you take your time to do it the right way, you'll be so happy with the results," Gibbons says.

Monique Valeris

Senior Home Editor

Monique Valeris is the senior home editor for Good Housekeeping, where she oversees the brand's home decorating coverage across print and digital. Prior to joining GH in 2020, she was the digital editor at Elle Decor. In her current role, she explores everything from design trends and home tours to lifestyle product recommendations, including writing her monthly column, "What's in My Cart."

Rachel Rothman

Chief Technologist & Executive Technical Director

Rachel Rothman (she/her) is the chief technologist and executive technical director at the Good Housekeeping Institute, where she oversees testing methodology, implementation and reporting for all GH Labs. She also manages GH’s growing research division and the analysis of applicants for the GH Seal and all other testing emblems. During her 15 years at Good Housekeeping, Rachel has had the opportunity to evaluate thousands of products, including toys and cars for GH’s annual awards programs and countless innovative breakthroughs in consumer tech and home improvement.

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets like the Pros

If contemporary pop culture is any indication, we are currently obsessed with the home makeover. From shows like Queer Eye to Flip or Flop to The Home Edit, there’s something about that dramatic reveal of a renovated fixer-upper that has us at the edge of our to-be-reupholstered seats. We eat it up—on repeat (of course we’re still watching, Netflix). But there’s always one project that satisfies the collective desire for transformation above all others: freshly painted kitchen cabinets. “By painting cabinets, you are immediately creating a change that is noticeable without having to make a major investment in both time and money,” says Queer Eye star and design expert Bobby Berk. “And when you opt for a totally new color or one that creates more contrast, it just has this huge impact on how the room looks and feels.”

If you’re ready to go beyond reality television and go all Bobby Berk in your culinary space, here are some tips and tricks on how to paint kitchen cabinets like an expert, compliments of the pros.

Step 1: Consider Cost and Time

Giselleflissak//Getty Images

We’re not going to sugarcoat it: Tackling a kitchen cabinet paint job is not exactly something you can finish by noon on a Saturday. But tackling the project yourself does pay off—literally. A professional paint job can easily top $6,000 for an average kitchen, while doing it yourself can come in as low as $200 for paint and supplies. As for project length, a full kitchen takes six to seven days, so plan on a few nights of eating out.

“Anybody can do it,” says Renae Brabham, half of the husband-wife duo behind Brabhams Cabinet Painting in Charleston, South Carolina—together they’ve completed more than 500 kitchen cabinet jobs. “However, if you try to cut corners, then you’ll end up calling professionals to step in. We’ve gotten so many of those calls, and it almost always boils down to someone getting impatient or using bad products.” In other words, if you’re gonna do it, do it right. Now let’s get into it.

Step 2: Examine Your Cabinets

skynesher//Getty Images

Rule number one: Before you break out the roller, take a look at the condition of what you’re working with.“Any small chips or cracks to the doors can also easily be repaired with a wood filler,” Berk says. But keep in mind, not all cabinet doors and drawers are paint-worthy. If the veneer is peeling or the woodwork is warped, you might be better off buying new unfinished drawer fronts and doors to replace the beat-up ones.

Cabinet material is also an important consideration. Wood, wood laminate, veneer, fiberboard, and even metal cabinets can be repainted without difficulty. However, plastic laminate and thermofoil cabinets might require special paints and techniques that will be more conducive to paint adhesion. If in doubt, test a sample of the paint in an inconspicuous area or even remove a door and bring it into a paint store for inspection.

Step 3: Prep the Space

Hirurg//Getty Images

We know, you’re eager to put brush to paint. But a little upfront prep ensures that your countertops and backsplash don’t get an unanticipated paint job of their own. Empty the cabinets, clear the counters, and move furniture that’s in the way, so you have plenty of work space. Give the room a thorough dusting to prevent particles such as pollen from settling on the wet paint. Next, cover the backsplash, counters, and floor with brown builder’s paper or plastic tarps.

Brabhams recommends preparing a work area outside of the kitchen—such as a garage or basement room—with good ventilation and even a few fans. There, you will lay down plastic and set up three to four sawhorses with two-by-fours on top to hold the cabinet doors. You can also set up a nearby paint station, complete with paint, rollers, brushes, buckets, and sandpaper.

When it comes to big paint jobs, don’t forget to take safety precautions to avoid unwanted exposure to paint vapors. Keep windows and doors open, use fans to keep the air moving, and continue ventilating the area for at least three days after painting. Take breaks while painting as well.

Step 4: Remove the Doors and Hardware

PixelsEffect//Getty Images

Yes, it’s a major time suck. And yes, you will be tempted to go rogue and skip this step. But removing the cabinet doors gives you access to all surfaces of the cabinet. So unless you are going for a bolder free-form flair, don’t cut this corner and do remove that door. Starting at one end of the kitchen (working clockwise or counterclockwise) use a drill or manual screwdriver to remove the cabinet hinges, doors, drawers, and hardware. If you’re painting only the door fronts, you do not need to remove the sides.

“Number the doors as you take them off,” Brabham advises. “Otherwise, it will be a mess because not all doors are created equal.” She suggests writing the number in the hole where the hardware was, and covering it up with a piece of tape to avoid painting over it. To avoid losing the hardware for each door, Brabham puts it on the shelf each door came on or placing each in a small bag that is labeled with the corresponding cabinet number.

Step 5: Apply Liquid Sandpaper

Jovo Marjanovic / EyeEm//Getty Images

In the past, you had to clean, strip, sand, and generally break your back to prep a surface for paint. But the home improvement industry has evolved beyond soap and scrub brushes—and even sandpaper. There’s a product called M-1 Paint Gloss Remover (you can also use liquid sandpaper) that cleans and deglosses the surface. Sans sawdust. “This stuff is by no exaggeration a miracle product,” Brabham says. “Nobody sands cabinets anymore.” To use, wipe the M-1 gloss remover all over the cabinet doors—on the sides, across the top, on the back—and it will be dry in 20 minutes.

A word of warning: You never heard this from your mother, but we’re here to say, don’t clean the cabinets. “Cleaning solutions can be a huge culprit of our finest DIY horror stories,” Brabham says. If you use a TSP [trisodium phosphate] or a silicone-based cleaning product, you can get what’s called fisheye on your cabinets. “It looks just about as cringe-worthy as it sounds. This bubbly paint effect happens when the paint won’t stick, and it’s a nightmare because you have to let that dry, then sand it down, and at that point you’re lucky if you don’t have to take it to a professional. ”

Step 6: Choose Your Paint and Application Tools

Alyssa Stasiukonis / EyeEm//Getty Images

You’ve gone Pinterest happy on dream kitchen colors and you’ve maxxed out your phone storage space with apps to help you find the perfect paint shade. But you’ve now come to your moment of reckoning. While we can’t tell you what color to choose (Berk says green kitchen cabinets are his new obsession), a word on paint type (there are two main categories, latex and oil-based paint) might help with the decision process.

Whether you choose latex or oil-based paint, know that both provide a great finish. As latex paint has improved over the years, many pros have entirely given up on oil-based paints. “We used oil the first two years we were in business and quickly nixxed it because the latex products they have these days are heads above what they used to be,” Brabham says. Latex paints dry faster, are easier to clean up (requiring just water and dish soap), and are more forgiving than oil-based paints in terms of paint application. However, they can be more susceptible to stains and do take up to three weeks to fully cure (or subject your cabinets to daily use).

Oil-based paint, which is typically more expensive and less user-friendly, goes on smoother than water-based paint and tends to better hide the cabinet’s imperfections. It also shrinks less as it dries, which means that what it looks like wet is how it will look dry. “I prefer an oil-based paint for cabinetry that will be getting a lot of use, as it tends to hold up better over time,” Berk says.

Brabham recommends using the Benjamin Moore Styxx or Sherwin-Williams Extreme Bond as a primer, followed by the Sherwin-Williams Emerald urethane or Benjamin Moore Command paints—which are a hybrid of oil and urethane. “Both are extremely durable, have low VOC [volatile organic compounds], are not going to scratch, and don’t yellow like oil paint does,” she says. Pro tip: The average kitchen—about 25 doors and six drawers—requires one gallon of paint and one gallon of primer.

As for the finish, that’s one step you needn’t worry about, Brabham says. “You think about your sheen when you pick out the paint,” Brabham says. “Some are glossy, some are a more low luster finish, and others (the majority of our jobs) are semi-gloss, which offer a low luster look with a comfortable amount of protection.”

Your options for paint applicator tools include spraying or rolling. “Spraying cabinets is going to give you the cleanest and smoothest finish hands down, and is also much less time consuming than using a roller or brush,” Berk says. Though spraying can be pricey. The Graco Magnum Airless sprayer, the Apollo sprayer, or the Fuji sprayer are all great options. You could also opt for a professional-level sprayer, like the TriTech T4 sprayer, which some hardware stores offer for rent. If you're intimidated by the idea of spraying your cabinets, rollers are always an option. Don’t forget to purchase a respirator mask to wear for protection against paint fumes.

Step 7: Apply Primer and Paint

ljubaphoto//Getty Images

Armed with the right tools, you’re ready to put paint to the surface. Prepare the sprayer or paint bucket, and begin with your first layer of primer. Start with the backs of each door, lining them up on the two-by-fours. Let those dry, then flip them over and spray the other side. “This is the part of the process where everybody gets scared, as that first layer of primer is going to look like something a six-year-old went to town on,” Brabham says. “Don’t panic. You’re just giving your cabinet a good base, and each layer gets progressively better.”

Once the primer has dried (a process that typically takes 40 minutes per layer), repeat this process with the paint. “The best way to build up the surface is with multiple layers of thin paint rather than one thick layer that can more easily chip off,” Brabham says.

If you’re using a brush and roller, dip the brush in the paint and apply it to the surface. Work your way from the inside edges of the face frames to the outer cabinet sides and fronts (this allows you to work quickly in the less critical areas and spend more time rolling over the flat surface while it’s wet). You will then go in with a flock foam mini roller and smooth it out. Be careful not to make too many brush strokes, which will create air bubbles that will dry into bumps. This is the same process you will apply to the cabinet base in the kitchen, as you can’t spray that.

Two coats of quality paint are usually sufficient, but a third coat can’t hurt. After the first coat of paint, lightly sand all the surfaces with an extremely soft sandpaper and wipe sanding dust with a tack cloth before going on to your next coat. Allow for at least four hours between coats. “Be patient as the cabinets dry,” Brabham says. “If you go to pick up the doors and they feel a little tacky, you’re going to leave fingerprints on them and have to redo the whole paint job. ” Wait at least 48 hours so the cabinets can be fully cured before being reattached to the hardware and base.

Step 8: Put It All Back Together

AMR Image//Getty Images

Now you are ready to return everything to its proper place for the final reveal. Using the same drill or screwdriver, reattach the drawer fronts and doors to the hinges and hardware. Slide the drawers back in place.

Consider zhuzhing the newly painted cabinets with some stylish hardware. “Contrast is key when it comes to hardware,” says Berk. “For lighter cabinets, l like to go with darker hardware in black or bronze, and for darker tones I often opt for brass or nickel.” Add the bling and voilà: kitchen à la mode.

Rachel Silva

Assistant Digital Editor

Rachel Silva, the Assistant Digital Editor at ELLE DECOR, covers design, architecture, trends, and anything to do with haute couture. She has previously written for Time, The Wall Street Journal, and Citywire.

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Furniture painting, how to do it yourself and what you need for work

A good way to decorate, update or give a certain style to the elements of the environment is furniture painting. From any, even the oldest interior items, you can create a unique work of art. Everything is limited only by imagination and patience.

Contents

Best furniture to use
Popular painting options
Tools and materials needed
Paint for covering
Artistic paints
Lacques
Brushes and painting roller
Drawing brushes, pencil, paper and ruler
Tool for preparing surface
How to create a design

Which furniture is better to use

Of course, there are no restrictions on the choice of items. The main factor determining suitability is the material. For the implementation of the plan, old furniture made of wood is better suited. This is precisely its value relative to modern products made from chipboard and fiberboard. “Sawdust furniture” is definitely not suitable.

Wood surface is easier to work with. Old paint or varnish can be easily removed, various defects (chips, cracks) can be repaired or left to give the effect of "aging". In addition, most of the ways of applying drawings are designed specifically for wood. Any pattern or ornament looks good under varnish on a wood texture. Suitable furniture, covered with natural veneer. An example of this is an old wardrobe or chest of drawers made from multilayer veneered plywood. After removing the old varnish or paint, the surface is primed, painted in the desired color and a pattern is applied.

But furniture made from modern materials should not be crossed off the list. Acrylic-coated MDF facades can be painted in any style after some preparation. Acrylic coating is a layer of paint that is polished after drying. This type of coating is often used in the manufacture of facades of kitchen sets.

Modern paints and varnishes allow them to be applied over various coatings. There are also paints designed for painting glass without special preparation.

Popular painting options

The most common option is simple decorative furniture painting. Basically, this is the application of small elements, ornaments or repeating patterns. For a simple drawing, paint of the same color is used, and to simplify the process, templates or stencils are used for painting. This type of decoration is suitable for modern furniture. Gilding is widespread. This type of painting is typical for interiors in classical styles. Figured elements of furniture decoration are decorated under gold.

Artistic painting is a more complex option. This is a rather painstaking work, all stages of the kora are performed manually, including the smallest details. Painting on furniture can be in the form of a pattern or a small fragment, as well as a complex three-dimensional pattern. Author's works are especially appreciated.

A separate place is occupied by the production of semi-antique interior items. This also includes the restoration of old furniture. Various painting techniques and styles are used in the work. Surfaces and trim elements are subjected to "aging" in various ways. Antiques are very popular among wealthy people and collectors. Usually this type of decoration is made to order.

Required tools and materials

Coating paint

The basis for the coating is a primer. It must be designed for woodworking. Acrylic-based primer does a good job.

Any latex or acrylic paint will work for the top coat. The surface is better to make matte. Gloss doesn't always look good. A good option would be paint in an aerosol can. This will allow you to apply it in an even layer.

Artistic paints

Acrylic paints are often used for furniture painting. They are well suited for drawing various patterns. You can also use oil mixtures. Their traditional purpose is painting.

Lacquer

It acts as a protective coating. It is possible to use alkyd or acrylic varnish for furniture. Also, like paint, it can be matte or glossy. Applying a layer of varnish over the drawing is the final stage of work.

Paint brushes and roller

A roller may be needed to apply primer and paint over a large area. With curly elements, a wide brush will help to cope.

Drawing brushes, pencil, paper and ruler

Fine patterns and lines are easy to draw with fine art brushes. For acrylic paint, it is better to use brushes with synthetic bristles. It won't stick. Oil paint will require a brush with natural bristles.

A simple pencil, paper and ruler are useful for sketching and marking the surface for drawing. In addition, you may need to make templates or stencils for painting.

Surface preparation tool

Remove old varnish or paint from furniture by sanding it with sandpaper. You will need "sandpaper" of different grain sizes for a more thorough surface treatment. In some places, the old coating will have to be removed with a spatula.

Some types of varnish or paint can be removed from old furniture with special chemicals. You can find them at any hardware store.

Use a cloth to remove dust. A brush with a long and hard bristle will help to sweep dirt out of cracks and other hard-to-reach places.

How to create a design and implement an idea

Do-it-yourself furniture painting is a long and painstaking work. The process may take a long time. Sometimes it takes more than one day or even a week. It is especially difficult if there is no experience in such a matter, it does not matter if we paint old furniture or give a new look to modern objects.

For beginners, a few tips will not be superfluous:

Any work begins with a sketch or sketch. You can develop a design yourself or borrow the idea of painting furniture from a photo on the Internet. In any case, transferring a drawing from paper will be easier than inventing everything on the go;
In the absence of experience, you should not immediately take on a large amount of work. First, paint a small object;
If you can dismantle the furniture, do it. The individual parts are much easier to work with;
Free space. There should be enough space to work. It is possible that the furniture will have to be rotated, tilted or moved;
Do not neglect the quality of surface preparation. Polishing defects can spoil the look of even a very talented painting. Dust and small particles lead to the same result;
Primer is a must for painting or painting. It is easier to work on a surface covered with soil;
Each coat of primer, paint or painting must be thoroughly dried. Minimum - a day for each layer.

The process of implementing an idea consists of several stages. The first one is preparation for priming and painting. The classic version with old wooden furniture involves the removal of the paintwork. To do this, you will need coarse and medium grit sandpaper or a special chemical agent - a wash and a spatula.

After removing varnish and paint, sand the surface with fine sandpaper. This will get rid of excessive roughness and small scratches. If there are large chips and cracks on the furniture, they are puttied and sanded;
The next step is to apply the primer. This is done with a brush or roller. Drops and streaks should be avoided. In extreme cases, you can get rid of them using a sponge, or wait for the layer to dry and sand it with sandpaper;
Next comes the painting. The paint is applied in two or three thin layers. The result should be a smooth and even surface. After drying, you can proceed to the most interesting, but no less time-consuming stage - drawing;
Furniture with paintings - not necessarily an old wardrobe or chest of drawers, covered with patterns on all sides. More often it is a small pattern or a repeating pattern. To apply the same patterns, use a stencil or template. These can be simple butterfly stencils, small patterns, or large patterns with complex patterns.

There is more than one way to paint furniture. Hand painting is especially appreciated. Painting can be considered the pinnacle of skill. Combining various ways and techniques of painting, it is possible to create truly unique things:

Those who do not use a brush can use the decoupage technique. This method is usually used on small pieces of furniture, but large surfaces can also be decorated;
The final stage of work is the coating of the painting with a transparent varnish. It is advisable to apply several layers. This will save the drawing from accidental damage and make it possible to wipe or wash the furniture.

The art of painting makes any object unique. You can paint furniture using any traditional or modern direction. Furniture painting in the Russian style is very popular: Khokhloma, Zhostovo, Mezen. Each of them is unique in its own way. And of course, nothing prevents you from creating your own, no less unique style.

Kitchen cupboard painting

Painting Kitchen Cabinets

Step 1: Assess your cabinets

Step 2: Come up with a realistic schedule

Step 3: Gather

Step 4: Remove the doors and drawers

Step 5: Prep the surfaces

Step 6: Apply the paint

Step 7: Reassemble the cabinets

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets like the Pros

Step 1: Consider Cost and Time

Furniture painting, how to do it yourself and what you need for work

Learn more