How to plant okra seedlings
How to Grow Okra in Your Home Veggie Patch
Abelmoschus esculentusOkra, referred to by the botanical name Abelmoschus esculentus or sometimes Hibiscus esculentus, is a member of the Malvaceae, or mallow family, that includes cotton, hibiscus, and hollyhocks.
It is thought to have origins in ancient Egypt and Ethiopia, and grows as an annual in all USDA Hardiness Zones.
Also called lady finger or gumbo, the immature edible pods of okra have long been used as a thickener in stews and soups like Creole- and Southern-style gumbo, and Indian dishes.
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Read on for all you need to know to grow and harvest your own crop, plus some info on varieties and useful cooking tips!
How to Grow Okra
- Okra Orientation
- Growing Tips
- Pests and Disease
- Suggested Varieties
- Harvest Time
- Okra Quick Reference Growing Chart
- Edibles Rule
Okra Orientation
Rich in fiber, protein, and vitamins A, C, and K, okra is not only a nutritious addition to veggie gardens, but makes an attractive specimen in beds and borders, with varieties ranging from dwarf to over eight feet tall at maturity.
Plants are typically green, but may also be red-stemmed with red-veined leaves.
Yellow flowers with red centers resemble hibiscus. Pods may be green or red; curved or straight; with or without ridges; and smooth or covered in tiny fuzzy “spines.”
In fact, the leaves, stems, and pods of this plant are often setulose, or covered in tiny hairs or bristles. Though these aren’t technically spines like what you might find on a cactus, they’re commonly referred to as such, and they can be a real pain for whoever is doing the harvest.
Gardeners often prefer “spineless” varieties, because these protrusions commonly cause itching and irritation when okra is harvested and prepared. For some, handling the plant may actually cause an allergic skin reaction.
Much like stinging nettles, washing and cooking, or blanching in boiling water, will remove these irritating hairs. Wearing long sleeves and gloves to protect your skin is always recommended when you’re working in the garden.
Growing Tips
Okra is very easy to grow from seed.
It prefers full sun, average moisture without letting the soil dry out completely if possible, and good soil that drains well. A neutral soil pH between 6.5 and 7.5 is preferred.
It will grow in poor soil and can even withstand some drought conditions, but may not produce optimally under these circumstances.
Prepare seeds for planting by scraping each lightly with a nail file and soaking in tap water overnight.
In warm climates, direct sow in the early spring garden when soil temperatures are at least 60°F, to a depth of about one inch. Around mid-summer, you may prune tall varieties to encourage further growth, and you can also choose to plant a fresh crop at that time for a late harvest.
In cold regions, like mine in the Northeast, you’ll have to wait a little longer for the soil to warm up enough for direct sowing outdoors, at least two weeks after the last frost date, maybe more.
You may also start seeds indoors up to two months before the last average frost date in spring. Since the soil needs to be warm to encourage germination, consider using a heat mat.
Transplant sturdy seedlings to the outdoor garden around the last frost date. I like to use egg cartons or peat pots I can place directly into the ground, because okra has fragile roots. Keep in mind that okra doesn’t take well to transplanting, so you’re likely to lose some seedlings if you go with this planting method.
Be sure to read seed packages for specific instructions, and for details on plant heights and widths. Tall types reach up to four feet in diameter, and this knowledge will aid in spacing your plants in the garden.
Sow more seeds than you need, and when sprouts have their first true leaves, thin them out, keeping only the strongest.
Apply a layer of mulch around your plants to inhibit weed growth and aid in moisture retention. Feed with a balanced vegetable fertilizer throughout the growing season, per package instructions.
Extreme weather fluctuations can affect this plant, causing flowers and buds to drop, or pods to fail to form. Give your plants the best conditions you can in terms of sun exposure, provide adequate watering and sun protection to try to keep your plants cool in a heatwave, and cover seedlings for extra warmth in the case of a late-season coldsnap.
Pests and Disease
Okra is not particularly prone to pests or disease, but both are always a possibility.
Avoid the need for troubleshooting later with crop rotation, high quality seed, ample air circulation, and appropriate moisture. Keep your veggie patch clean, and remove dead leaves and old vegetation.
Did you know okra can be grown as an ornamental too? This beauty would look at home in any annual garden.Walk through your garden each day, and be on the lookout for aphids and stink bugs feeding on the juices of emerging pods. Remember that beneficial insects like ladybugs are your friends in the veggie patch, and they should be allowed to stay!
Look for cabbage worms and flea beetles munching leaves, and check the undersides of leaves for bug eggs and whiteflies.
Hand picking insects or dousing them with a steady stream of hose water is usually all that’s needed to avoid an infestation.
In addition, a fungal disease called fusarium wilt may occur where there is too much moisture. Its telltale sign is drooping yellow leaves. Plants that succumb to this must be destroyed, to prevent spread to other plants.
Anthracnose fungus is another potential issue, noted by black spots on leaves. Again, you should remove any infected plants to prevent further spread in the garden.
Powdery mildew, noted by white and powdery spots on plants as the name suggests, may also affect okra growing in humid and overly moist conditions. Remove affected portions, prune back plants for good airflow, and always plant in well-draining soil.
Read more about treating powdery mildew disease.
Suggested Varieties
Okra is a cultigen, meaning it has been improved upon via selective breeding and hybridization for many generations, to produce the most delicious harvests and attractive, resilient plants.
You’ll find an array of cultivars available from all over the world that includes heirloom species and hybrid varieties. And while the flavor of the resulting fruits is generally mild, aficionados of old heirlooms often swear their favorites are best.
If you garden in the South, all varieties should serve you well, as okra loves heat, humidity, and a long growing season. For Northerners, cultivars bred for better cold tolerance and a shorter growing season are best.
If you’re looking for something unique, you can find okra in shades of red and burgundy. To save your skin, look for spineless varieties – but keep in mind that no cultivar is truly entirely free of those potentially irritating little hairs that grow on the plant.
Here are a few noteworthy varieties that you might like to choose for this year’s garden:
Cajun Delight
If you’re growing in a cooler climate up north like me, this hybrid is a great pick. Plants mature in 50-55 days, maxing out around 4 feet in height.
Dark green pods grow to about 5 inches long, with a slight curve.
‘Cajun Delight’ Hybrid Seeds
Hybrid ‘Cajun Delight’ seeds are available from Seedsurvivor via Amazon.
Burgundy
For something a little different, add some color to your crops. This red variety matures in 60 days, reaching four feet in height.
Heirloom ‘Burgundy’
Straight pods will grow up to eight inches long, if you want to keep them on your plants for ornamental interest.
Heirloom ‘Burgundy’ seeds are available from Eden Brothers.
Want more options? Check out our Guide to the Best 13 Varieties of Okra.
Harvest Time
You want to harvest your okra when it’s around three inches long which is the optimal size for most cultivars before they start getting woody. If they are too tough and stringy at that length, you can start harvesting them two inches.
If you pick ever other day and keep on top of them, your pods should keep blooming and produce tasty pods all summer long.
And if you have planted open pollination varieties, remember allow a few to grow to maturity to save their seeds for next year’s planting.
Get more details on okra harvesting here.
Okra Quick Reference Growing Chart
| Plant Type: | Annual | Tolerance: | Drought |
| Native to: | Tropical Africa and Asia | Maintenance: | Moderate; keep free from weeds |
| Hardiness (USDA Zone): | 9-12 | Soil Type: | Loamy |
| Season: | Summer | Soil pH: | Slightly acidic to slightly alkaline, 6.5-7.5 |
| Exposure: | Full sun | Soil Drainage: | Well-draining |
| Time to Maturity: | 50-60 days, depending on cultivar | Companion Planting: | Melons, cucumbers, sweet peppers, eggplant |
| Spacing: | Thin to 12 inches | Avoid Planting With: | Short, sun loving veggies and flowers whose light may be blocked |
| Planting Depth: | 1 inch or less | Order: | Malvales |
| Height: | 3-6 feet | Family: | Malvaceae |
| Spread: | 12-48 inches depending on cultivar | Genus: | Abelmoschus |
| Water Needs: | Moderate, every 7-10 days | Species: | esculentus |
| Common Pests: | Aphids, armyworms, cabbage loopers, corn earworms, cucumber beetles, flea beetles, stink bugs, thrips, root knot nematodes, spider mites | Common Disease: | Charcoal rot, fusarium wilt, powdery mildew, southern blight, white mold, yellow vein mosaic virus |
Edibles Rule
There are so many reasons to add okra to your garden planner this growing season.
Whether you cultivate it as a vegetable for the table, or a decorative specimen in beds and borders, it’s going to make a bold statement in your outdoor living space.
Easy to grow and virtually trouble free with the right conditions, okra’s hibiscus-like yellow blossoms and pods of striking proportions offer season-long interest, and the opportunity for gardening fun with the family.
Remember, the more nutritious veggies your garden grows, the healthier you can be. You’re not going to want to let that fresh produce go to waste when you grew it yourself! Why not dedicate more of your landscape to the cultivation of edible plants, and make every square foot count.
And for more veggie related growing guides, be sure to check some of these out:
- Learn How to Grow the Best Tomatoes
- 11 of the Best Fertilizers for Growing Vegetables
- 9 Fast-Growing Vegetables and Herbs to Pep Up Your Pantry Menu
How to Grow Okra | Southern States Co-op
Gardeners in the southern United States usually reserve a spot to grow okra, because it's a staple in southern cooking.
Northerners have come to know and enjoy its subtle taste, too. Similar in taste to eggplant, okra is used in shellfish, corn, onion and tomato dishes. It is also known as "gumbo". When cooked, okra's liquid commonly is gumbo's thickening agent.
The annual, warm weather vegetable is related to hibiscus, hollyhock and rose of Sharon. Native to Africa, it is easy to grow this unique vegetable.
Growing okra
Prior to planting, soak the okra seeds in water for 12 to 18 hours to soften its hard seed coat. Soaking aids moisture absorption and germination.
Plant okra in the spring or early summer once the threat of frost has passed. To prevent the seeds from rotting, the soil should have warmed to at least 65 degrees. Gardeners in cool regions may want to start okra seeds indoors in peat pots four to six weeks before the area's final frost date.
If buying okra plants, purchase those that are started in containers such as peat pots that can go into the ground. Disturbing okra's roots hampers growth.
Okra can grow from three to six feet tall. Choose a garden spot where its shade will not harm other sun loving plants. Sow the seeds one inch deep in rows that are three feet apart. The seeds generally germinate in two to 12 days. Okra will grow in many soil types, so mulch and fertilize as needed.
Once the plants start to grow, thin them so they are spaced 12 to 18 inches apart.
Okra thrives in the full, hot sun. Regular watering is needed and is particularly critical during flowering and pod development. During extended dry spells, a weekly deep soaking is beneficial.
Crop rotation and good soil management help control diseases. Okra is susceptible to wilt, root knot nematode and Southern stem blight. It is not unusual for okra to attract various beetles and worms. Watch regularly for infestations and treat appropriately.
Harvesting okra
Okra reaches maturity in 50 to 65 days. The plants can produce for ten to 12 weeks. It grows and bears seed pods until frost, which quickly turns them black and kills them.
Start harvesting a few days after the okra blooms fade. At that point the seed pods should be soft and two to three inches long. Pick the pods at least every other day, as they quickly turn from tender to tough the bigger they grow. Handle okra gently. The pods bruise easily.
Remove old seed pods so they do not inhibit new pods from developing. For maximum yield, prune older limbs beneath the already harvested pods.
All okra varieties have spines, so wear gloves when picking the pods. The spineless varieties have fewer spines on the pods themselves, but spines on other parts of the plant make wearing gloves and long sleeves a good idea.
Storing and using okra
Do not wash okra. Wet pods become slimy and mold quickly. Refrigerate dry okra in perforated plastic bags. Use within a few days before the pods' ridges and tips start to turn dark.
Because of the long growing season and hearty production, four or five plants usually produce enough okra for most families.
More plants may be needed, though, to can or freeze okra for use during the winter.
While old seed pods cannot be eaten, they are perfect for dried flower arrangements.
Okra - growing from seeds in the middle lane and Moscow region
This amazing plant is known and loved in many countries. Its ovaries are very tasty and nutritious, all kinds of dishes are prepared from them. And at the time of flowering, okra is very decorative and can decorate any flower bed or front garden.
Okra is also called differently: " okra ", " gombo ". Its relatives are decorative and fodder mallow, Chinese rose, or decorative hibiscus. At home, in Africa, this plant is cultivated as a perennial, while in our country okra is grown through seedlings as an annual plant.
Okra, like eggplant, is heat demanding. Therefore, it is cultivated only in the southern regions. But lovers can afford to grow it in the middle lane. So, at the dawn of the 20th century, it was successfully grown in the Moscow region by Anton Pavlovich Chekhov.
Sowing okra seeds
Okra is usually sown in early April. It is better to sow seeds for seedlings in separate cups of 1-2 pieces, because. the root of okra is slightly branched, taproot. The plant does not tolerate transplanting well. Before sowing, it is better to soak the seeds for a day in warm water.
They germinate well at 20-22°C. In the middle lane they are usually sown in March. Shoots appear in 10-15 days.
Planting seedlings
Seedlings are planted in the ground at the end of May, when the soil warms up well (approximately 45-50 days after sowing). Plants are placed in one row at a distance of 30 cm from each other.
Okra grows best on light, fertile soils, cucumber plantings can be predecessors. It is not bad at the same time to additionally add humus in a mixture with mineral fertilizers.
Care of okra
Plants need a temperature of at least 20°C to grow and bear fruit. In dry weather, one should not forget about watering, especially during the harvest period.
With a lack of moisture, the fruits of okra quickly coarsen.
Okra needs warmth and timely watering
Under film covers, moisture in the soil lasts longer, but the air humidity is higher there. Therefore, you often have to ventilate by lifting the film from the leeward side. The air temperature under the film must not be allowed to rise above 30°C.
In dry and hot weather, plants can be attacked by aphids, therefore, with the appearance of the first pests, it must be urgently treated with special preparations.
Feed okra with a combined mineral fertilizer, such as Nitrofoska (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). And during the fruiting period - potassium nitrate (in the same proportion).
Already two months after germination, early maturing varieties of okra begin to bloom, and after another five days you can start picking fruits.
Collection of okra ovaries
Edible 3-5 day old fruit ovaries, which are not yet covered with hard hairs, like the rest of the plant.
By the way, you need to be careful when harvesting: the plants are covered with dense, fine pubescence, and when in contact with them, itching may appear on the skin.
The young ovary is cut with a knife or scissors. Harvested fruit should be used immediately. They can be stored in the refrigerator for no more than 2-3 days.
Okra fruits are not stored for a long time
In the south, the ovaries are harvested every other day, in the middle lane - every 3-5 days.
Remember: fruits not picked in time become inedible!
Fruiting lasts until frost. An adult plant withstands frosts down to -2 ° C, but with the onset of cold weather, fruit growth slows down sharply.
On plants left for seeds, the first two ovaries are allowed to eat, the next ones are left until the seeds fully ripen inside the fruit-box. When these boxes are completely dry, the seeds are selected and threshed, cleaned of impurities and stored in paper bags or cloth bags in a dry, ventilated area.
Try growing okra in your garden. You will surely like the fruits of this unusual plant.
Secrets of growing okra. Features of care for okra and varieties. Photo - Botanichka
Like many gardeners, I'm always interested in trying something new - what if a new crop or variety turns out to be worthy and "take root" in our family? Once my inquisitive gaze fell on okra, and I decided to definitely get to know this mysterious culture better. In the first season, I planted only two bushes and got a tiny harvest. He did not allow me to fully enjoy this crop, but gave me the opportunity to learn that okra, as okra is also called, has a very pleasant taste and is worth growing more of it.
Secrets of growing okra After that I decided to plant okra in a significant amount, but as it turned out, it was really lucky that in the first year this vegetable did not give me any problems. In the future, I could not get a crop of okra for several years in a row. And only in the third season I was able to again feel the pleasant oily taste of the pods of this unusual plant.
In this article, I would like to analyze all the problems associated with growing okra in order to enable gardeners to get a significant harvest in the first season.
Difficulties of seedling age
The main problem of okra at the seedling stage is an excessive tendency to stretch. Okra sprouts literally appear from the ground already in an overgrown state - 6 or even 10 centimeters long. In the future, this leads to the fact that the seedlings are bent, lie down and twist among themselves, complicating the pick. To avoid this, containers with crops are initially kept on the south window, or moved to a minimum distance to the phytolamp.
Many sources say that okra does not like transplants, but I did not notice that the pickled senets suffered greatly. In addition, it will help to deepen the long leg if the seedlings are still outgrown.
However, I still prefer to sow two seeds in individual half-litre pots from the start, okra usually germinates well and extra seedlings can simply be plucked out.
At the same time, I initially fill the cups in half, and as the seedling grows, I gradually add earth, and new roots form on the stem.
One of the most serious problems when growing okra is planting in open ground. It was at this stage that I repeatedly completely lost beautiful strong seedlings. The fact is that, although in the future okra can grow into a huge plant with a thick trunk, becoming like a palm tree, okra seedlings are extremely vulnerable.
Without knowing it, I traditionally tried to plant okra in mid-May, along with tomatoes and peppers. But for okra it turned out to be disastrous, everything that the usual cultures endured without serious problems. Due to the fact that at the seedling age the okra has very thin, weak stems, it can be problematic even to bring it in a car to the landing site without loss. What to say if the weather at this time is too windy...
Another problem is the temperature. Okra is more sensitive to low temperatures, and if most vegetables are destroyed by frost, then even approaching zero can be fatal for heat-loving okra.
It was the combination of wind, rain and low temperatures in May that led to the fact that for several years in a row I completely lost seedlings, which were planted with a strong, healthy and lush life.
The advantages of late sowing okra for seedlings
Summarizing my negative experience, I came to the conclusion that planting okra seedlings in May in our climate is too risky, which meant that it was necessary to drastically revise the sowing dates.
Most sources recommend sowing okra for seedlings from mid-March to April. However, most likely, such early terms are recommended because shoots of okra sometimes have to be expected within 2-3 weeks. My experience has shown that the most common soaking of okra seeds in the preparation "Epin-extra" significantly reduces the germination time, and seedlings of most varieties appear in a few days (maximum in a week).
After germination, okra begins to develop at a tremendous rate, and when sown in March, seedlings reach a considerable size by May, which increases the risk that long stems will break for various reasons.
Practice has shown that before the stems harden as they grow, even a garter does not save, because they break even in those places where they are tied up.
Thus, I decided to completely abandon early sowing, and sowed seeds only at the beginning of May. This was done in the same way as when planting in early spring - indoors, on the southern windowsill, in individual cups, after pre-soaking the seeds.
Seedlings got to a permanent place only in the last days of May, when the weather was real summer, and there were no cold strong winds and the threat of a significant cooling. Thanks to the late sowing, the seedlings were not overgrown, they endured transportation better and took root faster.
In the summer sun, the okra immediately began to grow and soon reached an impressive size. Individual specimens that received the most sun were over 1.5 meters in height and had huge lobed leaves, giving a tropical feel. The okra bloomed at the end of July, and in August I was already able to harvest.
Difficulties in harvesting okra
I would like to draw attention to the fact that okra is a relatively low-yielding plant. To collect a significant number of pods, taste and eat plenty, you will have to have a small plantation, a couple of bushes are not enough.
Okra pods are harvested when they reach a size of 4-5 centimeters. When you go to harvest, be sure to bring scissors or pruners with you, as the pods are very difficult to tear off the stem by hand. The anatomy of this plant is such that the fruits are in the axils of the leaves, if the pod is carelessly torn off, the nearby leaf will dry out and this will weaken the plant.
Sometimes there is a temptation to hold the fruits longer so that they increase in size. However, the fibers rapidly harden, the outer fibers coarsen and the pods become unfit for food.
The main indicator that you have harvested the fruits on time is the ease of cutting.
Young fruits are very easy to chop, but if you have difficulty cutting the pods, then these are overripe fruits that will not become soft even after cooking and it is better to throw them away. Seeds from unripe okra pods do not need to be selected, after cooking they also become soft and tasty.
The taste of okra is not easy to describe, but if you are a fan of green beans and a lover of vegetable dishes, then you will definitely like it. For me, this is an improved version of green beans, more oily and rich.
Okra "Lady's fingers". © Lyudmila Svetlitskaya Oak "Eagle Pass". © Lyudmila Svetlitskaya Okra "Alabama Red". © Lyudmila SvetlitskayaVarieties of okra that I grew
This season I tested three of the most popular okra varieties. I would like to tell you a little about each of them.
Okra Ladyfingers
This variety is the most affordable and seeds of this variety can be found in many retail outlets. Nevertheless, out of the three tested varieties, he proved to be an outsider.
This okra had the narrowest pods and the thinnest walls, as a result - little pulp.
They were pentagonal in section, with a wall 1 mm thick. From above, the fruits were covered with hairs and had a light green color. The height of the bushes was also lower than the rest, about 40 centimeters.
Taste-wise: Ladyfingers okra was no different from other varieties, so you can safely plant this variety to form an opinion on whether you like okra.
Okra "Eagle Pass"
It was the plants of this variety that gave the highest bushes - more than 1.5 meters in height with a thick trunk 3 centimeters in diameter and large lobed leaf blades - about 30 centimeters.
In addition to their impressive size, the most remarkable thing about Eagle Pass is the pods. They are the same light green color and are covered with small stripes, like the Lady Fingers variety. But the pod consists of many faces, and when cut, it is found that the fruit has a noticeably thicker wall - 2-3 millimeters.
This, of course, affects the overall yield for the better, and the multifaceted pod itself is noticeably thicker.
In addition, such a star structure makes the appearance of the fruit more original, resembling gears and stars in the cut. The description of this variety states that it is distinguished by a reduced content of mucus, and for some housewives this is an additional plus, since additional processing is not required to remove excess mucous juice.
Despite the powerful trunk, this okra had to be tied to a support, since the adult “palm tree”, although it does not break, but in the wind it collapses on its side.
The fruit of the okra "Lady's fingers" (right) is significantly inferior to the variety "Eagle Pass" (left). © Lyudmila SvetlitskayaOkra "Alabama Red"
The main difference of the variety is the dark red color of the trunk and petioles, while the leaves are green, although the veins are also slightly reddish. The flowers of this variety are no different from other okra cultivars - lemon-colored petals, and in the center there are small burgundy areas.
Due to the name of the variety, one might sometimes think that the pods of this okra should be red, but this is not entirely true. They are the same light green and differ only in a slight burgundy-red coating closer to the tip of the pod.
The fruits of this variety remain tender longer and do not become rough, even when they grow to 10 cm in length. Another feature is a pleasant sweetish aftertaste that is not inherent in most other varieties. "Alabama Red" is quite tall, and mature plants reached a height of 1 to 1.5 meters.
Eagle Pass okra leaf has impressive dimensions. © Lyudmila Svetlitskaya The leaves of the Alabama Red okra are distinguished by dark veins. © Lyudmila Svetlitskaya Dear readers! There are many interesting varieties of okra, seeds of which are available from collectors. In the future, I plan to test new okra cultivars in my conditions in order to select a few of the best varieties. So far, the Eagle Pass okra has been the best for me.
