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How to grow nasturtiums


How to Grow and Care for Nasturtium

Nasturtium plants include both perennial and annual flowering species in the Tropaeolum genus, which encompasses more than 80 different plants. These herbaceous flowers are native to South and Central America and known for their rich, saturated, jewel-toned colors. Planted in the spring after the threat of frost has passed, they are fast and easy to grow. In fact, they do best with a little neglect. In general, nasturtium flowers tend to the hot end of the color spectrum. The rounded leaves look like miniature lotus leaves.

There are nasturtium varieties for almost every gardening purpose: bushy plants for borders and edges, trailing plants for walls and containers, and climbers that add dramatic height. The leaves and flowers are edible, with a peppery tang, so you'll often find this plant in vegetable gardens planted alongside broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower, where it keeps pests away.

Common Name Nasturtium
Botanical Name Tropaeolum spp.
Family Tropaeolaceae
Plant Type Annual, perennial
Mature Size 1-10 ft. tall, 1-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Flower Color Red, orange, pink, yellow, white
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 (USDA)
Native Area Central America, South America

Watch Now: How to Grow and Care for the Nasturtium Plant

Nasturtium Care

Nasturtiums are started either from seed as annuals, or purchased as starts at nurseries, where you may find them alongside other vegetable companions. The seeds germinate quickly and the plant starts blooming soon after. Once planted, nasturtiums generally takes care of themselves, requiring the same amount of water as you would give surrounding plants. Deadheading (removing spent blooms) is usually not necessary, however, pulling ripe flowers for use in salads and to place on top of summer desserts is always recommended.

Nasturtiums spill beautifully over walls and onto pavers when used as edging. They also hold up well in containers. Bushy, ground-hugging nasturtiums will fill bloom gaps in a sunny perennial garden and work well planted among daylilies or roses.

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Light

Nasturtiums grow and bloom best when planted in an area of full sun that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. This plant can tolerate some shade (three to six hours of sunlight), but might not bloom as profusely. When planted in a warm climate, some shade is actually preferred, as hot temperatures may end up browning leaves.

Soil

Surprisingly, nasturtium flowers do well in relatively infertile soil with good drainage. Soil that's too rich will result in abundant greenery, but few flowers. This plant grows best in soil with a neutral pH (6 to 8) and can tolerate dry conditions, although a moderate amount of moisture is appreciated. 

Water

Nasturtiums typically prefer weekly watering, but can be watered more often when planted in a greenhouse or in a sunny vegetable plot. In these conditions, the water demand can be high from surrounding plants and will dry the soil quickly. Nasturtiums will survive moderate droughts, but blooms will likely diminish and the foliage will begin to look spindly.  

Temperature and Humidity

Some varieties of nasturtium are planted as perennials in USDA growing zones 9 through 11. However, in most North American climates, this plant is treated as an annual, completing its life cycle in just one growing season. They prefers daytime temperatures in the 70s F and can survive a light frost, but not a cold freeze. Additionally, this plant prefers average humidity levels (between 30 and 50 percent), yet it's not overly particular. Nasturtiums can struggle, however, in extremely dry or extremely humid conditions.

Fertilizer

Using synthetic fertilizers is usually not recommended, as many gardeners grow them to eat. Organic gardeners rarely need to amend the soil before planting, unless conditions are very poor or the surrounding vegetables need soil im[rpvements. Just remember, robust soil properties can cause nasturtiums to put out more foliage and fewer flowers, so a good balance is important.

Types of Nasturtium

Nasturtium plants grow full, with rounded leaves and colored blooms peeking out behind their greenery. The flowers of this plant are funnel-shaped and come in varying shades of yellow, orange, pink, and red. Certain varieties boast subdued shades of butter yellow and cream, and others have variegated leaves.

Of the dozens of species of nasturtiums, favorites include:

Getty Images Francois De Heel / Getty Images 

Pruning

Trailing nasturtium varieties are prone to legginess and usually need pruning mid-summer, and then again in late summer, to stimulate new growth and blooms. Trim the longest stems back by 6 to 12 inches on trailing varieties and thin browning leaves and flowers by pinching them off at the base. For bushy varieties, trimming stems is not generally needed, but pinching off spent flowers and dried leaves will aid in the plant's overall aesthetic.

Propagating Nasturtium

After pruning your nasturtium, it is possible, and easy, to propagate the cuttings. You may also want to grow a new plant from a cutting if a large portion breaks off or if you want to replant the same variety in another part of your garden.

Here's how to propagate nasturtium from cuttings:

  1. Gather garden sheers, a pot with drainage holes, potting soil, and rooting hormone powder (optional).
  2. Fill the pot with potting soil.
  3. Select a stem from your mature nasturtium plant and cut off a 4-inch (or longer) piece with at least three leaves intact. Dip the cut end into rooting powder (this is not necessary, but may speed up the process).
  4. Poke a hole in the center of the soil and insert at least 1 inch of the stem into the hole.
  5. Backfill the hole gently with your fingers and water the pot carefully in the sink.
  6. Allow the pot to drain and place it in a sunny window or under grow lights.
  7. Check for roots in about one week. Once strongly rooted, transplant the stem into your sunny garden and continue to keep the soil moist.

How to Grow Nasturtium From Seed

Most gardeners choose to sow nasturtiums annually from seed. Seeds can be sown directly in the garden once the soil has warmed, or started indoors two to four weeks before the average last spring frost date. For outdoor planting, sow seeds directly into soil that is at least 55 to 65 F, and plant them 1/2 inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. Keep the soil continuously moist until seeds sprout, which should take about a week to 10 days.

When planting in pots, sow seeds in peat or paper pots, as nasturtiums can be finicky about transplanting. This will reduce transplant shock.

Potting and Repotting Nasturtium

Sowing seeds directly into pots is the best method for growing nasturtiums in containers. You can also sow seeds in peat starter pots, and then move them into a larger vessel once the seedlings sprout. A good quality potting mix will do, but don't opt for one with added fertilizer if you want more blooms. Nasturtiums grow best in natural stone or clay containers with ample drainage. You can also add a layer of stones or pebbles to the bottom of the pot, before adding soil, to increase the drainage capacity.

Common Pests and Diseases

Nasturtiums are prone to aphid infestation, consequently making them a good companion to, and deterrent for, vegetables also vulnerable to aphids. If your plant's foliage looks crinkled, or otherwise unhealthy, aphids might be the problem. Reduce the population with a strong blast of water from your garden hose. You can also opt for a non-toxic spray made at home from diluted vinegar or essential oils like lavender and peppermint. Better yet, plant catnip alongside nasturtiums to deter the pests altogether.

This plant can also contract bacterial leaf spot under improper conditions. Small brown or black spots will show on the leaves if this is the issue. You can minimize or prevent the problem by providing ample airflow between plants and watering with drip irrigation, as opposed to sprinklers, as this condition spreads by splashing water.

How to Get Nasturtium to Bloom

Nasturtiums begin to bloom when temperatures rise, so make sure your plant is in a sunny, warm location to assure maximum color. If your nasturtium hasn't started blooming within four to six weeks after sprouting, then you may need to wait for the outdoor temperatures to rise, or for weather conditions to improve.

Plants with abundant foliage but no blooms may be an indicator of rich soil conditions. While it's usually not recommended to fertilize this plant, under these circumstances, a plant food high in phosphorous may help promote flowers. Opt for natural products, like bone meal or rock phosphate, especially if you plan on eating the flowers. Pruning your plant may also help if you planted a variety that holds flowers under its leaves.

Common Problems With Nasturtium

Some varieties of nasturtium actually obstruct flower production due to the plant's physical structure. If you are growing nasturtium at ground level, as opposed to one that trails or vines, choose a variety that holds its flowers above its leaves, allowing the sun to get to the buds.

Root rot can also affect nasturtium if the soil is water logged. This plant prefers almost sandy soil, so make sure there is ample drainage in the location you select.

How To Grow And Care For Nasturtium

Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum) are one of the quickest and easiest annuals to grow. They produce masses of vividly coloured blooms from midsummer right through to the first autumn frosts in a surprisingly wide range of colours – not just orange, yellow and red but also cream, salmon pink, burgundy and crimson (and often a mix of several of these). Some have attractively marbled or mottled leaves, too.

Nasturtiums are either bushy or dwarf (Tropaeolum minus) or climbers (Tropaeolum majus). Bushy varieties look great in containers and hanging baskets or at the front of a border, while climbing varieties can be trained up wigwams or obelisks and will twine through other plants. These can also be used as ground cover, spreading across gravel or cascading down a slope or bank. Both types grow very well in pots.

Nasturtiums not only look spectacular but the flowers, leaves and seeds are edible, too; nasturtiums are also known as Indian cress. Nasturtiums also make good companion plants on the veg patch – the caterpillars of large and small white butterflies feed on the leaves, luring them away from brassicas, while blackfly are attracted to the leaves, which may mean your beans escape attack. Bees love the flowers. Nasturtiums are incredibly easy to grow from seed, making them ideal for beginner gardeners and children. They also make good cut flowers.

How to grow nasturtiums

Sow nasturtiums from March to May, where they are to flower, or in 9cm pots in a greenhouse. Free-draining soil is essential for nasturtiums and, unlike many other flowers, they thrive on poor soils. Water plant in containers in dry spells. Once they have been hit by frosts, dig them up and put them on the compost heap.

Nasturtiums: jump links

Where to grow nasturtiums

Nasturtiums need sunshine for at least half the day in order to grow well. A free-draining soil is essential; nasturtiums flower best on poor soils. Fertile soil results in lots of leafy growth at the expense of flowers and flowers that are buried beneath the foliage.

Grow nasturtiums at the front of a border, up an obelisk, as companion planting on the veg patch or spilling over the edge of raised beds and pots.

Where to buy nasturtium seeds online

When to sow nasturtium

Sow nasturtium seeds under cover from March and outside when the soil has warmed up, from March to May – a late sowing will ensure flowers until the first frosts.

How to sow nasturtium seeds

How to grow nasturtiums - sowing nasturtium seed

Sowing nasturtiums in the ground

You can sow nasturtium seeds directly where they are to flower.

  1. Rake the soil to a fine tilth and make sure it is free of weeds. Water the area before you sow – this will ensure that you don't wash away the seeds once sown
  2. Sow the seeds 1.5cm deep, around 10cm apart – either push them in with your finger, or use a bamboo cane to make a shallow drill
  3. Cover the seeds with soil
  4. Once the seedlings emerge (after about two weeks) thin them to around 30cm apart

You can also simply pop seeds around the garden, where you'd like them to appear – around the edge of raised beds or large pots of bedding, for example.

Sowing nasturtiums in pots

You can also sow nasturtium seeds in pots – this is a good way to get earlier flowers and is a good option if you want to plant up a beautiful container display later in the season. Simply sow one seed per 9cm pot in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill, harden off and plant outside in late spring.

Read our detailed advice on how to sow annual climbers.

How to plant out nasturtiums

Nasturtiums growing with geraniums and nemesia in a hanging basket

If you haven't grown your own plants from seed, you might find small pots of nasturtiums at the garden centre in late spring or early summer that are ready for planting out.

Planting nasturtiums in the ground

Dig a hole that is the same size as the pot your plant was growing in, and plant so that the crown of leaves is at soil level. Water in well.

Planting nasturtiums in containers

Mix two-thirds peat-free multipurpose compost with one third fine gravel or grit, to reduce fertility and ensure good drainage. Again, plant so that the crown of leaves is at soil level and water in well.

More like this

In this clip from Gardeners' World, Monty Don arranges plants for a late summer display, with a dramatic purple-leaved Phormium cookianum 'Black Adder' in the centre, lots of magenta-flowered Cosmos bipinnatus 'Dazzler', and four Bidens 'Hawaiian Flare Orange Drop' cascading over the rim, alongside trailing nasturtiums, Tropaeolum majus 'Cherry Rose Jewel'. He also advises on aftercare to keep the display at peak flowering through to late autumn:

How to care for nasturtium

Watering freshly planted nasturtiums

Nasturtiums are easy to care for and need little maintenance. Plants growing in the ground rarely need watering. Plants growing in containers should be watered to keep the compost evenly moist, but don't feed them. Deadheading will encourage more blooms over a longer period.

Harvesting and storage

Harvesting nasturtium flowers

Nasturtium leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible. The flowers and young leaves have a peppery taste (nasturtiums are closely related to watercress) and are a great addition to salads. The seed pods can be used as a substitute for capers (they are known as 'poor man's capers'). Pick them when mature but still green, and pickle them in vinegar.

You can collect nasturtium seeds when they're ripe and save them somewhere cool and dry to sow next year. In mild areas, nasturtiums are also likely to self-sow, so you may get seedlings springing up in future years. These can be easily pulled up if not wanted.

Our friends at olive magazine have a range of recipes that incorporate nasturtiums, including pickled vegetables with salted yogurt and pressed tomatoes with whipped goat’s cheese and lovage oil.

Growing nasturtiums: problem solving

Blackfly on a nasturtium leaf

Nasturtiums are likely to attract large and small white butterflies (known as cabbage white butterflies) which lay their large greenish eggs on the leaf undersides, which hatch into caterpillars that eat the leaves. This can be useful to deter caterpillars from eating brassica crops but not desirable if you’re growing nasturtiums for flowers. The best method of control is to inspect plants regularly and squash the eggs or young caterpillars, or move them on to plants you don't mind being eaten.

Nasturtiums are also attractive to aphids, particularly blackfly. Again, by planting nasturtiums alongside bean crops you can lure aphids away from your crop, but you may not appreciate aphids on nasturtiums you're growing for leaves and flowers. Spray them off with a jet of water or let ladybirds, hoverflies and lacewings remove them for you – all three lay their eggs on aphid colonies and their young quickly eat them up.

Advice on buying nasturtiums

Nasturtium varieties to grow

Nasturtium 'Black Velvet'

Nasturtium 'Black Velvet'

Tropaeolum minus 'Black Velvet' is a compact nasturtium with velvety dark red flowers. H x S: 30cm x 45cm

Nasturtium 'Phoenix'

Nasturtium 'Phoenix'

Tropaeolum minus 'Phoenix' has flowers with unusual split petals, in shades red, orange and yellow. A bushy variety. Height x Spread: 30cm x 30cm

Nasturtium 'Empress of India'

Nasturtium 'Empress of India'

Nasturtium minus ‘Empress of India’ is a bushy nasturtium with crimson-red flowers and dark leaves. H x S: 25cm x 45cm. 'Princess of India' is a dwarf version.

Nasturtium 'Orange Troika'

Nasturtium 'Orange Troika'

Tropaeolum majus 'Orange Troika' is a climbing or trailing variety with vivid orange flowers and marbled foliage. H x S: 30cm x 1.5m

Nasturtium 'Alaska Series'

Nasturtium 'Alaska Mixed'

Nasturtium minus ‘Alaska Series’ produces flowers in yellow, cream, orange and red, shown off against cream and green marbled leaves. Bushy. H x S: 25cm x 45cm.

Nasturtium 'Ladybird'

Nasturtium 'Ladybird'

Tropaeolum minus 'Ladybird' has pretty cream/yellow flowers with deep red spots at the throat. H x S: 30cm x 40cm

Nasturtium 'Baby Deep Rose'

Tropaeolum minus 'Baby Deep Rose' is a compact, bushy variety with deep crimson blooms. H x S: 20cm x 20cm

Nasturtium 'Bloody Mary'

Tropaeolum minus 'Bloody Mary' has splotched and striped flowers in shades deep red, yellow and cream. H x S: 30cm x 60cm

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Author: Elena N. https://floristics. info/ru/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: Garden Plants Returned: Last editing:

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