Do venus fly traps need sunlight

Venus Fly Trap Care - The Great Outdoors Nursery

Dionaea muscipula

The most popular carnivorous plant, Venus flytraps grow to 5-6 inches in diameter with traps typically measuring up to 1.5 inches.

In late spring, Venus flytraps produce small white flowers that readily self-pollinate. In mid to late summer, you can collect seeds once the entire stalk turns completely black and dries up. Native to a 90-mile radius

around Wilmington, NC. USDA Zone of Native Habitat: Zone 8

Where to Grow

The flytrap grows best outdoors as a container or potted plant. It makes an excellent addition to any sunny deck or patio. You may also grow it in a pond or fountain, but keep the crown of the plant above water. Because of its specific soil requirements, avoid planting it directly into the ground, unless you have created a specific type of bog garden.

Sunlight

During the growing season, grow your flytrap outside in full sun. Provide 6 or more hours of direct sunlight for vigorous growth.

If full sun is not possible, provide a minimum of 4 hours of direct sunlight with bright indirect light during the rest of the day. Your plant wont be as vibrant or sturdy as one grown in full sun, but you will be able to maintain its overall health.

Heat Tolerance

The flytrap tolerates the summer heat well. It originates from an area where temperatures above 90F commonly occur in summer. However, in its native habitat, the soil temperature is moderated by a slow seepage of cool spring water.

When growing your flytrap in containers, you will need to pay attention to soil temperature. While it may not be necessary to shade your plant during the hottest parts of summer, you may need to top water your plants daily to prevent the roots from over-heating. Plants will over heat when the soil temperature approaches 110F. Monitor soil temperature whenever the daytime temperature rises above 100F.

Water

Keep the pot in standing water at all times. Never allow the soil to dry out completely. The flytrap requires mineral-free water. So bottled distilled water, water passed through a reverse-osmosis unit or collected rain water are best.

If you grow your plant in a pond or fountain, keep the water level no higher than halfway up the pot. Avoid drowning the crown of the plant.

Winter Care

As winter approaches, your plant will slow down in growth and eventually stop growing. Itll retain some of its leaves throughout the winter months, but the leaves will turn brown around the edges and the traps will stop working. This is perfectly normal. Flytraps require 3-4 months of winter dormancy triggered by cold temperatures (below 50F) and shorter daylight hours. Even while dormant, your plant will still need to sit in a small amount of standing water to prevent its soil from drying out.

However, plants are very susceptible to freeze damage when grown in containers. You will need to protect your plant when the temperature falls below 20F or whenever there is a combination of freezing temperatures and wind. Both types of winter conditions can certainly cause serious frost burn. To prevent frost burn, cover it with black plastic or a tarp, or move it into an unheated garage or shed.

As soon as the freeze is over and the temperature climbs above 35F, uncover your plant and allow it to continue its dormancy outdoors.

Early Spring Care

When the temperature slowly creeps up and daylight hours become longer, your plants will gradually emerge from dormancy. Clip off all leaves from the previous year to make way for flower buds and new leaf growth. Look for flowers in late spring.

Feeding

Although some growers like to feed their flytrap, it is not necessary. Carnivorous plants have adapted to capturing insects on their own, and insects will naturally be attracted to your plant.

If you choose to feed your plant, use recently killed insects. Do not feed your plant meat. Feeding is not at all required during the winter months when the plant is dormant. Because there is already an abundance of insects outdoors, its not necessary to supplement with foliar sprays.

Soil

The flytrap requires nutrient-free soil that provides good drainage and aeration. Use a standard soil mixture of 1 part peat moss and 1 part perlite. Never use potting soil, compost or fertilizer. These ingredients will kill your plant.

Repotting

For a robust plant, repot it every year. Change the soil, and if necessary, put your plant in a larger pot. Changing the soil restores soil acidity, improves root aeration and strengthens the health of your plants.

Repot during late winter and early spring, especially if you want really robust plants in time for summer. In general, however, you can repot your plants at any time of the year. If you choose to repot at a time other than early spring, make sure you keep the roots intact.

When changing pots, use a tall one that will easily accommodate its long root system. Flytraps tend to grow faster and larger when their roots have room to grow. Large pots will also give your plants added protection during the winter.

Indoor Care

Because of sun requirements and winter dormancy, we do not recommend growing flytraps indoors, including terrariums. They grow best outdoors as container plants or in bog gardens.

Venus flytrap Lighting requirements - FlytrapCare.com

Adequate lighting is very important to keep a Venus flytrap healthy. During their active growing season, Venus flytraps should receive a minimum of 12 hours of light. A minimum of 4 hours of direct sunlight is recommended. The more direct light the plant receives the healthier the plant will be.

The absolute best place to grow Venus flytraps is outside. The sun’s UV rays kill most mold and fungus spores. The rain washes them away. The wind blows them away.

Venus flytraps growing outdoors are always on the hunt and usually capture a lot of prey. Outdoor growing is the easiest way to keep your Venus flytrap at its healthiest. We recommend only growing Venus flytraps outdoors.

Growing Venus Flytraps outdoors

Choose an open area outdoors to grow your Venus flytraps and you won’t have to worry about making sure that they get adequate light. They will get all the light that they need to be at their healthiest.

In an extremely hot and dry climate, it is best to provide some shelter from mid-day sun so that Venus flytraps don’t get burned or dried out. Shade cloth between 30% and 50% will work well. Similarly, dappled light through the leaves of a shade tree will provide some reprieve from the intense sun while still providing adequate light for optimal health.

As mentioned before, if grown outside, Venus flytraps will catch all the food they need on their own! However, if you really want to keep your little friend inside, then be sure to place it in a south, east or west-facing windowsill that gets at least 4 hours of direct sunlight a day. It is good to regularly feed Venus flytraps that are grown indoors.

Department store Venus Flytraps

Venus flytraps at hardware stores are often stuck on a shelf where they receive woefully inadequate lighting.

If you just bought a Venus flytrap from the hardware store or similar where the plant was receiving very low-intensity light and wasn’t in direct sunlight at all, then you will want to harden off your Venus flytrap. Slowly introduce the plant to direct sunlight to prevent its leaves from burning and dying.

Start off by giving it an hour or so of direct sunlight for a few days, then increase the exposure to sunlight to a couple of hours for a few days and continue to increase the Venus flytrap’s exposure to sunlight until you can just leave it out in the sun all day.

Alternatively, you could just put the plant in direct sunlight right out of the store. All of the leaves will burn and turn yellow or brown and then eventually black. But it won’t be long before it starts sending out new leaves. These new leaves and traps will be fully hardened to the sun.

Be warned! There is a small risk of killing the plant if you decide to just throw it out in the sun.

Growing your Venus flytrap indoors

If you are unable to grow your Venus flytrap outside where it can get all the sunlight and bugs it needs, there are a few options for indoor growers. After growing outdoors, a sunny window that faces south is your next best option. As long as the Venus flytrap receives 4+ hours of direct sunlight in the window, it should grow well. An east or west-facing windowsill can work too.

If you live in a basement or in an apartment with only north-facing windows, you might have to use artificial lighting to help your plant grow well. Venus flytraps can grow very well under fluorescent lights. However, they are more susceptible to disease. The most challenging part of indoor growing is to provide them with a proper dormancy.

Venus flytraps will eventually die if grown under fluorescent lights year-round with the same amount of light each day. Venus flytraps require an annual dormancy period. It is possible to grow Venus flytraps under lights during the summer and then move them elsewhere for dormancy. A cool windowsill, unheated porch or garage, or outside (in mild climates) can work for winter dormancy.

Similarly, Venus flytraps can be grown outdoors in the spring, summer and fall months. Then moved indoors during the winter months. This works well for most climates in the middle and the northern United States. In the southern US where it rarely freezes or frosts, flytraps can be grown outdoors year-round.

Growing Venus Flytraps under artificial lighting

Another alternative to outdoor growing is to use indoor artificial lighting. You can find many different kinds of expensive “plant” lights at your local nursery or hardware store, but many growers find success with regular fluorescent lights.

If you choose to use fluorescent lights, keep the Venus flytrap within 8 inches of the light. This will ensure that the Venus flytrap receives enough light to stay healthy. The closer to the light the plant is the better.

Below is a picture of a setup of Venus flytraps growing indoors. Notice the fluorescent lights just above the plants. In the photo, the plants are approximately 2 inches from the light.

Adolescent Venus Flytraps under artificial lighting

When choosing a lighting setup for your Venus flytrap, an economical choice is a compact fluorescent bulb. Use bulbs labeled “cool white” or “cool blue” in color temperature. This means that the bulbs will have a color temperature in the 6500-kelvin range, which is ideal for growing.

Warmer colors, like those in the 3000-kelvin range, are better suited for flowering. 200-watt compact fluorescent bulbs with a color temperature of 6500K are an affordable choice. One bulb would work well for a few Venus flytraps.

If you are interested in an economical indoor-growing setup, look for a shop light fixture and T8 bulbs. These can be purchased for relatively little money and are commonly found at large retail and hardware stores. Again, look for the “cool white” T8 bulbs.

Venus Flytrap Care | Dionea at home

Our shop offers a wide variety of exotic plants. The Venus flytrap, or dionea, is one of the most sought after options, and here's why:

This is a fairly rare plant that can not be found on every windowsill.
Dionea is a very striking representative of exotic plants: it hunts with the help of leaf plates that have turned into deadly traps, has an unusual color and feeds on shellless insects. Watching the hunt is very interesting!

Dioneya feels good at home: if you follow a few rules, there will be no problems with care. What can and cannot be done with a Venus flytrap - we will tell in this article.

Lighting

The Venus flytrap grows naturally in swampy areas on the east coast of the United States of America. Therefore, your task is to recreate these climatic conditions as much as possible.

When choosing a place, pay attention to the southern windowsill. On the east or west window, Dionea also feels good: 5 hours of sunlight per day is the minimum necessary for the normal growth and development of the plant. It is not necessary to protect the flycatcher from the sun, the main thing is that it should not be stuffy, like in a bathhouse.
In the spring-summer period, the Venus flytrap begins an active hunt. Practice shows that she copes well with the capture of insects herself.

You need to know!
In autumn and winter, the sun rarely appears, so the flycatcher needs additional lighting. Phytolamp is best suited for this purpose. It is not difficult to understand that a plant lacks light: its leaves stretch and lose their brightness.

Temperature and watering

Dionea is a heat-loving flower, therefore it grows well and develops at temperatures from 22 to 30 degrees Celsius. In summer, the flycatcher calmly tolerates higher temperatures, but if this regime is maintained throughout the year, the plant will not live long. In winter, the flower needs rest.

Let's say you have already chosen a place for a flycatcher pot. It's time to take care of its watering.

The plant does not absorb mineral salts from the soil and is very demanding on the composition and quality of water.
Distilled or rain water, as well as melted snow at room temperature, is suitable for watering a Venus flytrap. Tap water cannot be used. Even after a long standing, it remains tough, and there are many questions about its composition.

The plant needs bottom watering, but to avoid charring of the soil, occasionally add a little water from above. Fill the tray with water, and the flycatcher flower will take the amount of moisture it needs. The earth in the pot should not dry out!

In winter, the plant must be sent for wintering!

How to choose soil and pot?

The choice of a pot is a matter of taste, but this plant looks most solemn in a white background. It is also often chosen in the case when a flower is bought not for themselves, but as a gift.

The beauty and health of a plant depends on the soil. Due to the inability to absorb minerals, the flycatcher prefers poor soils. It can be a mixture of peat and quartz sand (an alternative is perlite soaked in distilled water). In order not to buy the components separately and not to experiment with the proportions indicated on the Internet, we recommend that you purchase ready-made primer for dionea (it is always on sale).

This is important!
When choosing a pot, focus on the size of the plant. The container must not be too wide! As for color, light shades heat up less in the sun, which avoids overheating of the root system.
The correct pot must necessarily have drainage holes and a pan into which water is poured.

Dionea planting and transplanting: the most popular options

Variety selection depends on personal preference, but the most popular options are the typical form, large mouth and red dragon. Before placing an order, it is important to understand exactly what you need:

Seeds. Option for advanced flower growers. It takes up to three years to grow a dionea. Of course, a flycatcher grown from seeds is a clear expression of the invested work, skill and patience, but in the absence of experience, we recommend starting with other options. An interesting fact is that a small venus flytrap, most likely, will not look like its parents - this is a feature of this breeding method. If you decide to get seeds at home, you need to consider two points: the plant begins to bloom at the age of 2-3 years and does not belong to the category of self-pollinated. This "work" will have to be taken on, as well as growing seeds in a container, transplanting, careful care of the Venus flytrap during the rooting period.
Seedlings. These are small flycatchers placed in a temporary pot. After receiving the parcel, the plant must be transplanted within 1-2 weeks. Accordingly, it is better to prepare the soil and container in advance.
Plant in a pot. The older the flower, the more magnificent and larger it is. If you buy a flycatcher as a gift, pay attention to the plants planted in a pot with automatic watering.

What do we do for you?

You have the right to choose any of the offered options, our task is to provide you with a quality product. Germination of seeds of carnivorous plants is about 70%. In practice, this means that 7 out of 10 potential plants will sprout. The second direction of our activity is the cultivation of Venus flytrap specifically for sale. We understand that our customers are located in various parts of Russia, and therefore we pay special attention to packaging and transportation conditions. In order to keep the plants warm on the way, we ship them between April and November, but this is not the only reason for choosing this interval. Many plants go dormant in winter. It is impossible to transplant flowers during this period. In spring and summer, we recommend using the following algorithm:

Carefully remove the flower from the transport container.
Clear the roots from the ground.
Prepare a container at least 20 cm deep and place a layer of substrate on the bottom.
Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover it with the rest of the soil.

The soil does not need to be compacted to allow it to breathe better. Be sure to check for drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.

How long is the adjustment period?

Transplanting and changing places is stressful for any plant. The standard duration of the adaptation period is 1 month. At this time, it is very important not to move the plant from place to place and organize proper watering and additional lighting.

About flowering and eating

The flycatcher releases a peduncle. The flowers themselves are small, look like stars and smell pleasant, luring insects into a trap.

Flowering can last up to two months, but it must be understood that prolonged flowering depletes the flower.
If you are not interested in growing a Venus flytrap from seeds, it is better to cut off the peduncle, which prevents the plant from developing and forming large traps.

Interesting fact
Most plants require fertilizer during flowering and active growth. Here the situation is completely different: since the root system is not able to receive minerals from the soil, it synthesizes them on its own, but it will not be possible to solve the problem with a lack of nitrogen in this way.

The only source of nitrogen is stray insects that fall into its trap. If you take the pot out to the balcony in the spring and summer, the plant will cope with this task on its own, but you should not feed the flower with dead flies (if necessary, only live ones). Also, the flycatcher will not refuse mosquitoes and spiders.

Do not feed the flycatcher with beetles, worms and hard-shelled insects and human food (sausage, meat and other foods).
Avoid complementary feeding during the adaptation period, in winter or if the plant is sick. Digestion of an insect is an energy-consuming process.

Failure to follow these recommendations will result in the death of the trap due to the inability to properly digest food. The ideal "lunch" of a flower that eats flies takes up no more than 1/3 of the area of the trap!

How does the flycatcher winter?

Preparation for hibernation begins around October, but it is necessary to remove the plant for wintering in November-December. It is not difficult to understand that the plant is preparing for hibernation: the flycatcher gives wide leaves, the traps, on the contrary, become small. Thus Dionea saves the roots from the cold.

At this time, it is important to reduce watering, but still do not allow the soil to dry out completely. If you forget about watering for a long time, the Dionea plant may not wake up.

Is it possible to revive the flycatcher?

The answer to this question depends on two factors: the degree of damage to the plant and the speed of your reaction. If the rhizome is painted white, the flycatcher can be saved. To do this, carefully remove the blackened parts of the plant and transplant it into a new pot with suitable soil. During the rehabilitation period, the flycatcher is especially in dire need of sunlight, so the presence of a lamp aimed at dionea 12 hours a day is a necessary condition.

The flycatcher rarely gets sick, however, if two factors coincide - waterlogging of the soil and low temperature - a fungus may appear on the roots, and gray rot on the stem and leaves. This "infection" is treated with fungicides, which can be purchased at any store selling indoor plants. With timely detection of the problem, the chances of recovery are great. But the yellowing of the leaves indicates that you are watering the flycatcher with unsuitable water, such as tap water, or you have flooded the flower. Here it is important to realize the mistake in time and change hard water to distillate or normalize the irrigation regime.

Frequently asked questions

Venus flytrap is a beautiful and unusual predator, so it is often bought as a gift. Before making a purchase decision, we are asked a lot of questions. Here are the most common ones:

Is the Venus flytrap dangerous for humans?

Venus flytrap is completely safe for both humans and pets. Her only interest is small insects: spiders, mosquitoes, flies and midges. If a child touches the trap, nothing will happen to his finger: the leaves of the plant are soft, and the “juice” does not begin to be produced immediately. Just think, one insect can take up to 10 days to digest.

On the other hand, frequent “playing” with the flycatcher can lead to its death. Each closing of the trap is accompanied by a large expenditure of energy. If you “deceive” the flytrap infrequently, nothing terrible will happen - in a day or two it will open again, but such manipulations on an ongoing basis can destroy the plant. If you want to observe a "living organism", catch a fly and try to feed the flycatcher, while the insect must be alive.

Is it difficult to take care of carnivorous plants?

Your order comes with a detailed guide to caring for your venus flytrap at home, so in most cases there are no problems. All a flycatcher needs is soft water and good (natural or artificial) lighting. With the capture of insects, the flycatcher, as a rule, does an excellent job on its own.

How long does a flycatcher live?

Venus flytrap is a perennial plant that can live for decades if properly cared for.

We will be glad if, after reading this article, you still decide to purchase this amazing flower. In our store, the most common and unpretentious plants, as well as everything you need to grow a flycatcher at home - special soil, seeds, pots.

We deliver all plants presented on the site in Russia. Residents of Moscow and the Moscow region can arrange courier delivery, as well as pick up a flower from our showroom. Goods are sent to other regions by Russian Post, Boxberry and SDEK.

If you are looking for the most beautiful exotic plants - look at the Exotica online store. We guarantee a wide selection and reasonable prices!

Care and maintenance of the Venus flytrap

		Range:
Kingdom:	Plants
Department:	Floral
Grade:	Dicots
Order:	Carnations
Family:	Rosyankovye
Gen. :	Dionea
View:	Carnivores

Venus flytrap, Dionea Muscipula (Dionaea muscipula) - Care and maintenance, growing at home

Grows in a humid temperate climate on the Atlantic coast of the USA (states of Florida, North and South Carolina, New Jersey). Flowering time: from May to July.

This is the only species in the genus. Dionea is a perennial herbaceous insectivorous plant with a short underground stem. The stem is a bulbous rhizome. It blooms with white delicate flowers, collected in an inflorescence on a high peduncle. To obtain seeds, the flowers must be pollinated manually. Leaves are from three to seven centimeters in size, but in varietal large-growing Dionei they are larger, and in miniature ones they are even smaller. Also, the size varies depending on the time of year. Grows in soils with a lack of nitrogen, such as sphagnum bogs. Lack of nitrogen is the reason for the appearance of traps: insects serve as a source of nitrogen necessary for protein synthesis. The Venus flytrap is a member of a small group of plants capable of rapid movement.
The leaves are elongated, at the end a cracker is formed, consisting of two flaps along the edges of which there are teeth. On the surface of these plates are sensitive hairs that react to the victim and give the command to collapse the trap. After closing the trap, the juice is released and the digestion process begins, which, depending on the size of the insect, can last from several days to several weeks. Each trap works several times (about 4-7 times), and then dies off.
By winter, in the cool, the Venus Flytrap falls into a dormant period, stops its growth and it seems that it dies or freezes. Dried leaves can be removed and the plant carefully watered, in the spring it will grow again.

Cultivation of the Venus Flytrap, Dionaea step by step (Dionaea muscipula):

Watering the Venus Flytrap, Dionaea

Watering the plant is carried out only in the pan (through the bottom). Water for irrigation should be only distilled (h30), or reverse osmosis (super purified without mineralization).

Tap water, boiled, frozen, from an ordinary filter, cooler, etc. - must not be used in any case - because of this, the plant will die.

Distilled water can be purchased on tap from pharmacies that make their own medicines. This water can also be found in chemical and medical laboratories. Distilled water is sold in auto shops, at gas stations, but keep in mind that their water quality is somewhat worse than pharmacy water, so try to use pharmacy water if possible.

The Venus Flytrap is a marsh plant and does not tolerate dry soil. Do not be afraid to pour the plant - it will happily survive it. Be afraid to dry the plant - it will not tolerate drought.

For watering it is necessary to use tall trays that can hold a large amount of water. In summer, watering should be intensive. The water level in the pan can reach two-thirds of the height of the pot (ground level in the flowerpot). In the cool season - in autumn and spring, watering should be slightly reduced, and fill the pan by one third of the pot. As the water level drops, top up again. In winter, during the dormant period - moderate watering as the earth coma dries out.

Sometimes you can sprinkle the leaves of Dionea from above with a spray bottle of distilled water, just a little so that this is not considered watering from above. In the summer it is allowed once a day, in the cool season - once every 5 days, but this is not at all a mandatory procedure.

Soil for Venus Flytrap, Dionei

The substrate should be prepared on the basis of acidic high-moor peat with an acidity of 3.0-4.0 pH. Perlite, before preparing the substrate, must be soaked in distilled water for one and a half to two weeks, draining and replacing the water 3-4 times a week. The substrate is prepared in a ratio of 2:1 or 1:1 (sour peat: perlite). Perlite passes water and air very well, and also does not allow mold to develop. If you do not have the opportunity to prepare such a substrate yourself, then you can purchase it from us. You can also add dry sphagnum to the substrate. Sphagnum will help the substrate retain moisture longer and prevent drying out, and it also acts as an antiseptic, disinfecting the soil.

Venus Flytrap Pot Dionea

Dionea should only be grown in a plastic pot or glass pot with holes in the bottom to allow water to circulate easily. Planting a plant in ceramic, clay pots is prohibited. The basis of the substrate for Dionea is high-moor sour peat. Ceramics, interacting with such peat, releases harmful salts, which have a very detrimental effect on the plant. Therefore, use only plastic or glass pots. Plastic pot diameter 8-9-10-12 cm. Very large pots are not needed, since the root of Dionaea muscipula is not large. The plant only drinks with its roots, it receives all nutrition through the leaves. The diameter of a glass flowerpot for a florarium is limited only by the size of the plant and your imagination.

Venus Flytrap Lighting, Dionea

Dionaea muscipula is very fond of sunlight. Therefore, a flower pot should be placed on the south window, south balcony, on the south side of the house. In summer, when the sun becomes very intense, you can make dissected lighting for the plant, that is, use a mesh material so that the sun's rays are cut. To do this, you can use light shading nets, gauze, mosquito nets and the like, otherwise the plant may have burns out of habit, but it gradually adapts itself to the sun's rays, becomes strong and in the second half of summer these nets need to be removed. With a lack of light, the leaves of the Dionea can stretch unnecessarily, and eventually the flycatcher can stop growing crackers, become exhausted and die. Dissected sunbeams are acceptable, but not shading. At least a plant per day should receive 4-5 hours of direct sunlight and the rest of the daylight hours should be diffused bright light. But the more time the plant will stand in direct sunlight, the better.

If it is not possible to grow the plant from the south side, then it is possible to illuminate with very bright lamps, daylight or flora, with a minimum power of 3500 lumens - full daylight hours - 12-16 hours with a lamp, 8 hours - night, without a lamp. You can find quality lamps for Venus Flytrap HERE.

Carnivorous plants don't really like being rotated around their axis, so it is advisable to make some kind of mark on the pot regarding the cardinal direction and always try to stick to this direction.

Feeding the carnivorous Venus Flytrap, Dionea

For any carnivorous plant, insects are fertilizer. In order for the Venus Flytrap to live and develop well, it does not need to eat so much, only 3-4 insects per year. If there is a desire to feed the plant, then you need to remember that you cannot overfeed it, because. it can be oversaturated with fertilizers from the eaten insects. You can feed it only with live insects. The insect must move by stimulating the sensors inside the firecracker. Only in this case, the plant will produce an enzyme that will draw out all the beneficial substances from the insect. In no case should you feed meat, cottage cheese, etc., from this the plant will die. You need to feed the Venus flytrap no more than once every 3-4 weeks - just one insect in one cracker! If the plant caught the insect on its own, violating the feeding schedule, then it is not necessary to select the prey. Prey is usually digested from 2 days to a month, depending on the size and density of the insect. The plant from the insect sucks out the necessary nutrients, and the chitin remains. After the plant has pulled out everything useful from the prey, the cracker opens and only a cracker from the insect remains in it. If the insect is very large and did not completely fit into the cracker, or at the time of eating there was a very high air temperature, then this cracker may darken, but you should not worry, the plant will still have time to get food and grow many new crackers.

Humidity and air temperature for Venus Flytrap, Dionea

Humidity 45-70%, as for most indoor plants. Home conditions are acceptable. The air temperature in summer is 25-35 °C, in winter +2...+7 °C. Needs a period of rest (wintering).

Wintering of Venus Flytrap, Dionei

Dionaea muscipula needs wintering (dormant period). Dionea is a plant of a temperate climate, so the change of seasons is inherent in it by nature. Without this dormant period, the plant will be weak and may die. It is best that wintering takes place on the shortest sunny days (late autumn-winter). You can also navigate by the weather - with the advent of cold weather, you can prepare for wintering. Up to this point, all these plants can live wonderfully outdoors all season (outdoors, in the yard, on the balcony, on the window). When the temperature drops to +7...+5, then it's time for wintering. Usually it is November. We treat the plant with a fungicide so that mold does not form - Fundazol is very suitable. To do this, it is enough to spray intensively the plant and soil from the spray gun. A pot with a plant without a pallet can be packed in a plastic bag, a zip bag or a plastic container, it is necessary to leave or make small holes so that a little oxygen enters. About once every 2 weeks you need to check the condition of the soil moisture and the absence of mold. The substrate in the pot should be slightly damp. Do not under any circumstances dry out. If there is not enough moisture, add a little water from above under the root. For wintering, plants can be placed in a cellar, basement, on a glazed balcony, etc. The main condition for wintering is a low temperature ranging from +2 to +7 degrees. Higher temperatures are not suitable, because at high temperatures the vegetation of the plant does not slow down and it does not fully rest. The refrigerator is usually stable +5, so this is the ideal temperature. Lighting during the wintering period for Dionea is not needed at all, provided that the temperature is below +7 ° C. During the dormant period, Dionea can lose all her opened leaves - this is not scary. The most important thing in a plant is the health of the rhizome (bulbs). As soon as she gets into heat and good lighting, she will begin to dissolve new firecrackers.

The wintering period for a baby is 1.5-4 months, for a teenager - 2.5-4 months, an adult plant winters for 3-4 months, in a pan of water to a bright light and continue to care as usual.

Venus Flytrap Repotting, Dionei

Carnivorous plant needs to be repotted once a year. It is most convenient to do this immediately after a period of rest. A transplant is needed in order to renew the soil with the necessary acidity, as soil deoxidation occurs over time. If over the past year the plant has given children, then you can plant them in separate pots.

Venus Flytrap in bloom, Dionea

In spring, the adult Venus Flytrap blooms. In the first year of flowering, it is imperative to cut off the peduncle (peduncles) when it is just starting to grow. The first flowering takes too much strength from a young plant, and it may die. Let the plant get stronger as much as possible, grow a larger rhizome, and next year flowering will not be so exhausting for Dionea. The next year, the peduncle can be left, but then your plant will not be very large, since flowering and seed formation takes a lot of energy from it. If the peduncle is cut off, then the plant will be powerful with large leaves -

crackers.

Venus Flytrap's leaf change, Dionea

Dionea has a constant leaf change. Old leaves die from below, and new ones grow from the center. Leaves that have clapped their reserve of cotton also die off. Each flapper leaf fires 4-7 times, then dies off. Therefore, you do not need to make the plant clap crackers for fun. When the leaves die, they turn black and dry. It is not necessary to cut them without fail, but you can do this to make the plant look more aesthetically pleasing. It is useful to know that it is impossible to pull out blackened leaves, because. the leaf can come off with a part of the rhizome, so it will be damaged and will not give children. Blackened leaves must be cut off, leaving 0.5 cm from the beginning of growth.

A healthy leaf color on Dionaea muscipula can range from completely green to reddening of the "mouth" of the popper. It depends on the time of year, lighting, substrate composition and temperature, in some cases on the Dionei variety. The temperature regime in this case is the fluctuations of day and night temperatures. The greater the temperature difference, the more likely it is that the inside of the cracker will turn red.

Diseases of the Venus Flytrap, Dionea

Dionea is constantly in a humid environment, therefore it is susceptible to various types of rot and fungi.

Means for the treatment of Venus Flytrap, Dionea from parasites and diseases:

- Fitosporin M paste - biofungicide to protect plants from fungal and bacterial diseases.

- Fundazol - fungicide and disinfectant with a wide spectrum of action against a large number of fungal diseases.

- Aktara - insecticide of intestinal-contact action. Very effective against small insects that have settled in the substrate.

If you grow the Venus Flytrap (Dionaea muscipula) in accordance with the above conditions, you will have strong healthy plants that will delight you for many years. With proper care, Dionaea muscipula lives for 20-30 years and during this time it multiplies many times.

Venus Flytrap landing, transplantation, Dionei

1. Wet the substrate thoroughly with distilled water or a fungicide solution based on distilled water.
2. Place the moistened substrate in a plastic pot, filling it to the very brim, to the top. It is not necessary to compact the substrate very tightly.
3. Make a deep hole in the center.
4. When transplanting a plant from a pot or from a mini-greenhouse, use tweezers to loosen the substrate and carefully remove the plant with roots. Be careful, the roots are thin and long.
5.

Gently lower the entire root system and plant rhizome (bulb, light part) in the center of the pot into the hole made in the substrate. It is very important that the rhizome of the plant is well buried. Try to touch the root of the plant as little as possible with your hands. For these purposes, it is very convenient to use tweezers or medical gloves.
6. Bury the remaining hole near the root and rhizome. The plant does not need to be fertilized. The substrate should be placed horizontally along the very edge of the pot.
7. Place the planted pot with the plant in a deep tray. Pour distilled water into a 4-6 cm tray.
8. In summer, after planting, place the plant under indirect lighting for 4-5 days. After this time, put the plant in bright sunlight. In autumn, spring and winter, when the sun is not very scorching, after planting, immediately put the plant in bright light.

Growing Venus Flytrap from seed.

Plant seeds are very small and require special care when handling them.

Seeds of the Venus Flytrap (Dionaea Muscipula) require cold stratification for 4-6 weeks (temperature +2°...+7°C). Seeds are placed on a cotton pad or napkin soaked in a fungicide solution, placed in a closed container or a zip-bag, tightly closed so that the humidity is as high as possible and the seeds are in a humid environment. Placed in the refrigerator and make sure that mold does not appear, periodically add a weak solution of the fungicide, or you can spray the container from the spray bottle to prevent mold. During this period, the seeds do not change outwardly, do not germinate and do not swell.

At the end of the stratification, the seeds must be placed on the surface of the substrate in a mini-greenhouse, previously spilled with fungicide. Do not bury seeds from above. Close the mini-greenhouse with a lid and put it in a pan with distilled water on a southern windowsill, or under a phytolamp (minimum 3500 Lumens) for 14-16 hours/day. They germinate at a temperature of 20-25 ° C, with high humidity and good lighting in 4 - 6 weeks, germination can take up to several months.

Water only in the pan. The plants are marsh, so it is necessary that there is always a little water in the pan, about 1-1.5 cm.

When seedlings have reached a size of 1-2 cm, they should be transplanted into separate pots. For transplanting, you can use tweezers and a toothpick.

Now you know the secret of how to grow a Venus Flytrap (Dionea) from seeds.

EXPOSED!

All the prada about growing varietal Dioney from Seeds.

Do you grow varietal Venus Flytraps from seeds?

What are the actual colors of the varietal Venus Flytrap, Dioneus?

We will tell you the truth. In 2021, we realized that it was time not just to talk, but to shout about it, and to put a huge end in the Russian-speaking world of carnivorous plants on an immense snowball of deceit and disinformation.

You deserve to know the truth!

Attention! The use of materials from the site "DIONAEAS.