Cutting daffodils after flowering
Daffodil FAQs | American Daffodil Society
Table of Contents
- What is the difference between daffodils and narcissus?
- What is a jonquil?
- How many kinds of daffodils are there?
- Will squirrels and other rodents eat daffodil bulbs?
- Are daffodils expensive?
- Do daffodils grow back every year?
- How long do daffodil bulbs last?
- How do daffodils multiply?
- How long is the flowering season of daffodils?
- What are miniature daffodils?
- Are daffodils difficult to grow?
- Do you need to deadhead daffodils?
- When should you cut back daffodils?
- Can daffodils be grown throughout the United States?
- Will daffodils grow in the shade?
- Do ground covers have an adverse effect on daffodils?
- Why should I exhibit at daffodil shows?
- How can I learn more about daffodils at home?
What is the difference between daffodils and narcissus?
None. The two words are synonyms. Narcissus is the Latin or botanical name for all daffodils, just as ilex is for hollies. Daffodil is the common name for all members of the genus Narcissus, and its use is recommended by the ADS at all times other than in scientific writing. Back to Top
What is a jonquil?
In some parts of the country any yellow daffodil is called a jonquil, usually incorrectly. As a rule, but not always, jonquil species and hybrids are characterized by several yellow flowers, strong scent, and rounded foliage. The hybrids are confined to Division 7 and the term “jonquil” should be applied only to daffodils in Division 7 or species in Division 13 known to belong to the jonquil group. Back to Top
How many kinds of daffodils are there?
Depending on which botanist you talk to, there are between 40 and 200 different daffodil species, subspecies or varieties of species and over 32,000 registered cultivars (named hybrids) divided among the thirteen divisions of the official classification system. Back to Top
Will squirrels and other rodents eat daffodil bulbs?
No. The bulbs and leaves contain poisonous crystals which only certain insects can eat with impunity. They may, however, dig up the bulbs. Back to Top
Are daffodils expensive?
Bulbs are priced from around $1.00 up to about $100, depending on the newness or scarcity of a cultivar and not necessarily on its desirability. There are many prize-winning exhibition cultivars that can be bought for under $2.50. Cultivars for naturalizing cost even less, but mixtures of unnamed cultivars are not recommended. Back to Top
Do daffodils grow back every year?
Daffodils are dependable perennial bulbs that should return year after year with additional blooms. Back to Top
How long do daffodil bulbs last?
Under good growing conditions, they should outlast any of us. While some kinds of bulbs tend to dwindle and die out, daffodils should increase. Back to Top
How do daffodils multiply?
Daffodils multiply in two ways: asexual cloning (bulb division) where exact copies of the flower will result, and sexually (from seed) where new, different flowers will result.
Seeds develop in the seed pod (ovary), the swelling just behind the flower petals. Most often, after bloom the seed pod swells but it is empty of seed. Occasionally, wind or insects can pollinate the flower during bloom by bringing new pollen from another flower. When this happens, the seed pod will contain one or a few seeds.
Daffodil hybridizers pollinate flowers by brushing pollen from one flower onto the stigma of another. Then the resulting seed pod can contain up to 25 seeds. Each of these will produce an entirely new plant – but the wait for a bloom for a plant grown from seed is about 5 years!
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How long is the flowering season of daffodils?
From six weeks to six months, depending on where you live and the cultivars you grow. After blooming, let the daffodil plant rebuild its bulb for the next year. The leaves stay green while this is happening. When the leaves begin to yellow, then you can cut the leaves off but not before.
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What are miniature daffodils?
Daffodils come in all sizes from 5-inch blooms on 2-foot stems to half-inch flowers on 2-inch stems. Largely for show purposes, but also for guidance in gardening, certain species and named cultivars have been determined by the ADS to be miniatures and must compete by themselves in daffodil shows. Current lists of miniatures are published in the Daffodil Journal or may be obtained separately from the ADS. Back to Top
Are daffodils difficult to grow?
No. They are probably the easiest and most dependable of all the families of flowers and ideal for a beginner in gardening in most regions of the United States. Back to Top
Do you need to deadhead daffodils?
After daffodils have flowered you can dead head the bloom so that energy goes into building the bulb for next year’s flower instead of seed production. Before removal of the leaves, they should be allowed to die back naturally until they are at least yellow. Back to Top
When should you cut back daffodils?
Daffodil leaves should “not” be cut back until after they have at least turned yellow. They use their leaves as energy to create next year’s flower. Daffodils continue to absorb nutrients for about six weeks after the blooms have died. During this time they need plenty of sunshine and a regular supply of water. As daffodil bulbs are built, the leaves on the plant turn yellow and eventually die back.
Daffodil leaves removed soon after flowering by mowing or cutting back can severely deplete your bulbs. As with dryness, it prevents the bulb building and storage of food reserves for the future. Back to Top
Can daffodils be grown throughout the United States?
Daffodils are quite tolerant of cold, especially with a covering of snow, and are grown to the Canadian border. The only exceptions are a few tender cultivars, usually tazettas, such as the popular Paper White. Daffodils can also be grown throughout the South with the exception of parts of Florida which are free of frost. A cold treatment—natural or induced—is needed for flower bud initiation. Along a narrow band adjoining the Gulf of Mexico from Florida to Texas there are certain types and named cultivars which have been found to do better than others. Back to Top
Will daffodils grow in the shade?
They will grow in the shade of deciduous trees because they have finished flowering and the foliage has begun to mature by the time deciduous trees leaf out. However, it is better to grow them outside the drip line of deciduous trees rather than under them. Also, deciduous trees with tap roots are preferable to shallow-rooted trees. Daffodils will not long survive under evergreen trees and shrubs. Back to Top
Do ground covers have an adverse effect on daffodils?
The two will be competing for nutrients and moisture, so the answer depends on the fertility of the soil and the aggressiveness of the ground cover. Vigorous, tall-growing, and deeply rooting plants, such as pachysandra and ivy, are likely to discourage daffodils, but they will usually do well in the company of shallow-rooted, trailing plants, such as myrtle, foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia), or creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera). Back to Top
Why should I exhibit at daffodil shows?
For the satisfaction of helping to present to the public and other gardeners an outstanding display of a flower whose variety and merits are too little known. A show will also give you a chance to see blooms of the newer cultivars and to become acquainted with others who share your interest in daffodils. Eventually your skill may be recognized by awards and you may wish to take the courses and examinations which would qualify you as an Accredited Judge. Back to Top
How can I learn more about daffodils at home?
A good start is to join the American Daffodil Society today at this convenient link. Also, carefully read The Daffodil Journal, published by the American Daffodil Society and borrow books on daffodils from the Society’s library. Join one of the number of daffodil round robins available, with subject matter such as Miniatures, Historics and Hybridizing. Each round robin consists of members contributing e-mails about their experiences and discussing issues they have encountered. Join the daffodil Internet group known as DAFFNET. It is an international discussion forum established and supported by the American Daffodil Society and can be easily accessed at DaffNet. org. Look at our resource DaffSeek.org, a daffodil photo database, for your favorite daffodils or for new varieties. There is information for over 23,000 daffodils with more than 26,700 photographs. Back to Top
When Is the Proper Time to Cut Back Daffodils? | Home Guides
By Rota L. Knott Updated September 03, 2019
Perennial harbingers of spring, daffodils (Narcissus spp.) are among the first flowers to pop their head up each year - often through ground still covered with snow. Daffodils, which are also known as narcissus or jonquil, come in shades of white to yellow to pink and have bright green foliage.
Refrain from cutting that leafy greenery after the flowers have faded. Instead, allow it to die back on its own. The bulbs grow well when properly pruned in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3-9.
Nutrient Replenishment
Daffodils use their leaves to help replenish the store of nutrients that provide strong healthy flowers the following year. They continue to absorb nutrients for about six weeks after the blooms have died. During this period, they still need plenty of sunshine and a steady supply of water. As daffodil bulbs complete this process, the leaves on the plant turn yellow and eventually die back. Only then should the dead foliage be cut and removed.
Impact of Cutting
Cutting back daffodils too soon after they flower can have an impact on their ability to bloom the following year. Instead of immediately cutting off all of the daffodil’s foliage, trim off just the flower stem from each plant after the bloom fades. Conceal fading daffodils with new plantings. To tame unruly leaves and keep your flower beds looking tidy, gather the remaining greenery and tie it up with a piece of garden twine. Don’t tie it tightly, which could harm the leaves and cause them to fade too soon.
Dealing With Disease
Daffodil bulbs are susceptible to several diseases that may cause the flowering plant to wilt and die back early. Two common problems for daffodils are yellow stripe and mosaic disease. Yellow stripe presents as streaks down the length of the leaves, while mosaic disease attacks the flowers, showing up as white spots on the petals.
The diseases can be spread from bulb to bulb. Do not just cut off the foliage of damaged plants; to prevent the spread of disease, dig up and dispose of affected daffodils. Always wash tools between cuttings and when moving from plant-to-plant to avoid spreading diseases.
Dividing Bulbs
Daffodil bulbs should be divided every few years. Clumps of bulbs that have been located in the same spot for several years may stop flowering because of competition for nutrients and growing room. Dig bulbs for dividing after the daffodil leaves turn yellow at the end of the season. Trim off any dead foliage before storing or replanting the bulbs. If you are out of room in your flower garden, try planting daffodils along the edge of the woods in an area that will not be mowed until after they completely die back each season.
References
- National Gardening Association: Plant Care Guides: Daffodil
- The Old Farmer's Almanac: Daffodils
Writer Bio
Rota L. Knott is a journalist with more than 20 years of experience covering everything from gardening to government. She has written for newspapers such as "Ocean Pines Progress," "Ocean City Today" and the "Ocean Pines Independent," as well as "Maryland Farmer" and "Pennsylvania Farmer" magazines. Knott received a Bachelor of Arts in communications from Salisbury State University in Salisbury, Md.
Daffodils after flowering. Rules for the care of daffodils
Daffodils are quite common in many areas around the world, and many gardeners grow them in their summer cottages. However, despite this fact, not everyone knows how to care for daffodils so that they always get beautiful lush flowers. Even growing them for several years, some gardeners constantly make the same mistakes. Because of this, they get a meager flowering period or do not even wait for it. One of the most important periods for daffodils is after flowering. At this time, vital processes take place, subsequently they affect the quality of the plant, the beauty of its flowers, life expectancy and much more.
Unfortunately, many gardeners do not know and do not understand what daffodils need after flowering. Some people think that you can get by with minimal standard care, which in reality is not at all the case. Of course, familiar actions are also necessary, but besides them, there are other important things that you cannot do without in the pursuit of quality daffodils. These flowers have some requirements that simply cannot be ignored if you want to admire a beautiful result. And, to find out what kind of care requirements daffodils have, it is worth studying a lot of different information.
Or just read the article about daffodils after flowering and what to do with them.
When and how do daffodils bloom? What should be done after the flowering of daffodils?
Daffodils are beautiful flowering plants that delight us with their compositions in spring and summer. Some begin to bloom in early spring, some in the middle, while other varieties may even bloom their buds only at the beginning of summer. These flowers need a lot of sunlight and heat, which is why they should not be placed in too shaded areas. They love when the nutrients are in abundance, as well as the amount of water. Very often, tulips are planted along with daffodils, as their beautiful season falls at the same time. And for some reason, it is believed by many that the care of these two types of plants is also almost the same. Although in reality this is far from the case, daffodils and tulips need drastically different care.
If you choose several varieties of daffodils that bloom at different periods, then your flower bed will be a bright element of the site for a very long time. But in order to ensure the presence of lush buds, you need to carefully and carefully care for them. It is very important to properly rest the daffodils after they have faded by doing the following:
- trimming off dead leaves, flower stalks and other dry parts;
- introduction of the correct complex of fertilizers into the nutrition of flowers;
- digging up bulbs before cold weather and winter.
In addition, after flowering, you can do other manipulations with daffodils. This is due to the fact that this short period is very favorable for various changes. If you see that in recent years daffodils have become less bright and lush, then you should pay attention to the following procedures:
- transplanting daffodils to a new place;
- Propagation of flowers by dividing bulbs.
They will help improve the quality of your flower bed without spending too much energy. If you do every action correctly, the result will surprise you very pleasantly.
In addition to the above, it is worth noting that these flowers are often attacked by various pests or penetrated by infections and diseases. And the period after flowering is a vulnerable time, which is why it is worth knowing how to treat and prevent ailments.
Pruning leaves and peduncles of daffodils after flowering
Pruning of daffodils is carried out as the various parts of the plant dry out.
The very first step is to remove the flower stalks, they must be cut off immediately after all the flowers on them have dried. This is done so that the outdated peduncle does not take juices and nutrients from the plant. An exception is made when there is a goal to obtain seed material for propagation. In this case, the flower stalks are left until the seeds on the flowers fully ripen. The correct removal of flower stalks is carried out with a garden pruner or sharp scissors, they are cut off near the ground, leaving just a few millimeters above its surface. It is highly desirable to disinfect the instrument before use, as infections can form on its surface, which are likely to get on a fresh cut of the peduncle. Also, you can just carefully break them out if you are confident in your skills.
In contrast to the flower stalks, the leaves, on the contrary, are left on the narcissus until the last. This is done because even in semi-withered foliage, active processes of photosynthesis still take place. It is thanks to these processes that the flower accumulates nutrients, which, after flowering, are sent to the bulb and enable it to successfully survive the winter. If you cut the leaves too early, then the accumulated substances will not be enough for the cold season, the daffodil may simply not survive it. Or it will be reflected during the next flowering season, which will become sparse and dim.
Most often, the whole plant dries up completely one and a half or two months after the end of flowering. If you are growing daffodils for the first time, you can simply wait for this length of time, and then cut the leaves. Then the risk of removing the necessary parts of the plant is minimized. And when you gain experience, you will be able to accurately determine when you can remove the foliage, and when you should wait.
If you strongly dislike the appearance of semi-dry leaves, you can use the following advice. Experienced gardeners braid braids from such foliage, it looks quite original and becomes an autumn decoration of the garden. The semi-dry leaves are soft enough to be braided into a loose braid. You can try options of two, three, four or five leaves.
How to fertilize daffodils after flowering?
Proper pruning is far from everything that needs to be done for the qualitative development of daffodils. We remember to wait until the leaves are completely dry before cutting them. This is necessary for the transfer of nutrients from the top of the plant to the bulb. But nature cannot always provide the right amount of fertilizer for flowers in a home flower bed, especially when these are not ordinary plants, but daffodils. Therefore, immediately after flowering is completed, it is worth adding special top dressing to the daily care.
To get beautiful lush flowers next season, the narcissus needs the following elements:
- Nitrogen is perhaps the most important and indispensable element in plant nutrition, and daffodils in particular. Nitrogen is a material that is used in the construction and development of the plant as a whole. If the flower has a lack of nitrogen, then it simply cannot grow to the desired size, and even more so, produce good quality flowers. Nitrogen is also important for the formation of children and reproduction;
- phosphorus - this element is extremely important for a healthy root system, it greatly affects its development. If you want to always get a large bulb, then do not forget to add top dressing with phosphorus;
- potassium. A sufficient amount of potassium provides good immunity to the plant. When daffodils get the right amount of potassium, they become much more resilient to various adversities, adverse weather conditions and changes, as well as stress factors. If you plan to leave the bulb to winter in the open field, be sure to make sure that it is saturated with potassium. It is this element that will help to successfully endure the cold and other bad weather situations.
It is very important to apply top dressings in the right quantities, because theoretical knowledge about the usefulness of some elements is not enough.
Wood ash is an excellent source of potassium and phosphorus that daffodils need after flowering. To correctly calculate the amount of this fertilizer, adhere to the following proportion - 1/2 liter per 1 square meter of soil. You can simply sprinkle dry ash, loosen the soil and water it, or you can prepare a solution and then flavor the ground with it.
Mature manure or humus - this organic fertilizer is also great for feeding daffodils after flowering. It will provide the plant with all the necessary elements before the rest season. The calculation is made, adhering to the following proportion - 1 bucket per 1 square meter of soil. Do not forget to dig a little humus, after which you can water a little.
Potassium monophosphate is a mineral fertilizer for narcissus, which has a beneficial effect on this plant after flowering. It provides the flower with important elements that it will need during the winter and during the next flowering season. The required amount of potassium monophosphate is calculated as 50 grams per 1 square meter of soil. Like all chemical mineral fertilizers, it is best to first dilute it in water, and then flavor the soil with it. Be careful with mineral supplements, they are easy enough to overdo.
Digging up daffodil bulbs for the winter
If your area has cold winters or constant temperature fluctuations, then it is better to dig up the bulbs and move them from the open ground to a special storage place. Most often, digging is done at the end of June or July. By this time, most of the foliage dries up, but does not have time to fall off completely. If you wait until the entire upper part of the plant leaves, then it will be difficult to find and dig up the bulbs. It is possible to accidentally damage several root systems, which will make them unsuitable for further cultivation.
There is another reason not to delay harvesting bulbs from the open field. If unnecessarily tightened with this, then they can take root a second time in a season. After this process, digging will become an extremely painful procedure for the plant.
After the bulbs have been dug up correctly and on time, they must be placed in a cool, dark place for about two months. During this period of time, future daffodils will have time to rest and prepare for the next flowering season.
Some gardeners also practice planting immediately after digging and dividing the bulbs. But in this case, there is no guarantee that daffodils will survive an unnecessarily severe winter.
Proper care of daffodils after flowering will help the plant not only get enough nutrients and renew its strength. It will also provide you with a lush flower season next year. Follow the tips that have been described in this article. And, if you want to know even more about how to care for daffodils, go to the second part. In it, we'll look at how to transplant and propagate these flowers, what to do about pests and diseases, as well as some tips for the general care of these beautiful plants.
How to properly prepare and store daffodil bulbs in winter?
So, after digging up, you have decided not to plant daffodils immediately, but to leave them in a more favorable place during the winter cold.
After digging, the bulbs should be prepared for further storage. First you need to leave them so that the earth dries on them and the largest lumps sprinkle. After that, you can begin to separate the main bulb from the resulting children. Do this as carefully as possible, as the roots must remain intact. Some believe that a softer separation can be achieved by placing the bulbs in water, but this is fraught with other problems. Infections can live on one of the bulbs, and if they get into the water, they will multiply and fall on all the other bulbs. Therefore, division is not done when the root system is wet.
After this process, it is necessary to carefully examine everything and discard the spoiled bulbs, but it is best to burn them immediately. Healthy material should be washed with clean water, and then placed in a saturated solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. Next, the bulbs are dried in a dark place at a temperature of 22-25 degrees. Ensure good air circulation in the area where drying will take place. The daffodils can now be placed in a permanent storage location.
The most important parameter that must be observed is that the room must be regularly and thoroughly ventilated. In no case should daffodil bulbs be stored in plastic bags and other containers that do not allow air to pass through. An extreme option is rag bags, but the most suitable are wooden boxes, where they can be placed in one layer. During storage, the bulbs emit gas that prevents them from breathing, which is why it is necessary to constantly ventilate the room. The most suitable conditions can be considered a semi-dark room with a temperature of about 10-12 degrees, a humidity of 70%, which is well ventilated, or which is ventilated at least once a week.
Once or twice a week, each bulb should be inspected for various infections, diseases or fungi. If there are any, then they must be thrown away so that the ailments do not multiply and do not affect other planting material. Signs of disease can be white or yellow spots on the surface, soft areas, too dark upper skin, an unpleasant odor. Such bulbs are subject to immediate removal and destruction.
How to transplant daffodils after they have faded?
Daffodils are classified as plants that do not require an annual transplant. These manipulations are carried out as needed. How to determine that it is time to move these plants to another place? Usually, this can be seen in the quality of the flowering season. If the flowers have become smaller, not so lush and bright, then the daffodils are already tired of the soil, and require a new placement. After transplantation, they can stay in one place for about 5-6 years.
The bulbs are removed from the soil and prepared for storage, at the end of August they are planted in a new place. But it is not at all necessary to wait about two months, the main thing is to properly prepare them, and you can plant them.
The holes are made three times deeper than the diameter of the bulbs. The most comfortable distance for daffodils is about 10-15 centimeters. A mixture of ash and sand is poured onto the bottom of the holes. The addition of minerals during planting will also be very good. You can place several crystals near the roots (one teaspoon for one bulb will be enough), then water. Or you can dissolve the fertilizer in water, and flavor new plants with it.
The best time to transplant daffodils is before the weather gets too cold. The deadline is early September. If you move these flowers to a new place later, then for the winter they will need to be insulated by covering them with straw, hay or fallen leaves on top.
Daffodil breeding, when is the best time?
Daffodils are flowers that can be propagated in several ways:
- with the help of bulbs and buds that form on adult organisms;
- sowing seeds that ripen on flowers in summer.
The first method is done as a regular transplant in July or at the end of August. In any case, the dug bulb is divided and prepared for storage or immediately for planting. Thus, from one large plant, several smaller ones can be obtained, which will grow into huge bushes in a few years.
The second method can be carried out in mid-summer or late autumn, depending on when the seeds have time to ripen. Freshly harvested material is sown, which did not even have time to dry. It is best to place them in small boxes or bowls, but some gardeners even sow in open ground. There is no need to sow them too densely, as in this case there will be little room for future bulbs. In the first two years, new plants will form a stable and high-quality bulb, but for this to happen successfully, you should not disturb them during this period. Only after that, young daffodils can be dug up and planted in a permanent place.
It is worth noting that specially bred varieties cannot be propagated by seeds, as the new plants will not have the same qualities. This method is only suitable for wild species.
What to do when diseases or pests attack daffodils?
If daffodils are well cared for, then most likely there should be no problems. Nevertheless, no one and nothing is insured against diseases, and sometimes unpleasant incidents happen.
Daffodils are vulnerable to fungal diseases that affect plant bulbs. First, the lower part of the bulb deteriorates, it becomes soft, a slightly pink bloom sticks to the surface. As the disease progresses, all parts of the plant deteriorate. This disease can be noticed based on the state of the foliage of the narcissus, it becomes yellowish-brown, after which the whole plant dries and dies.
Another disease that can affect daffodils is gray mold. It is hidden under the outer covering of the bulbs in the form of a gray fluffy coating with black dots. When a plant is affected by gray mold, its leaves, stems and peduncles turn light brown, sometimes it starts with a few spots. When the lesion reaches its extreme point, the plant rots and dies.
Prevention and disinfection of the bulbs before planting is the best remedy for fungi and rot. For the best effect, you can spray the seedlings with Bordeaux liquid with a concentration of 1.5%.
Daffodils are also susceptible to various viruses. They show themselves as dark spots and stripes on the leaves. Infected flowers do not develop well and do not look very good. Most often, viruses enter the body of daffodils due to the use of dirty tools, through contaminated soil, or with the help of insects.
To prevent viral diseases in your garden, treat your seeds and soil, decontaminate everything before planting, fight annoying insects, and always use disinfected tools. To overcome the virus and cure the plant when it is already infected is a kind of fantasy.
In addition to diseases, various pests attack daffodils. Infection with nematodes and narcissus fly is very common, but this can be prevented by dipping the bulbs in hot water (43. 5 degrees) for several hours. It is worth fighting nematodes with the help of Nemafos and Carbation preparations. The narcissus fly will be defeated by Fufanon with a concentration of 2%.
Treatment with Fitoverm (2 milliliters per 1 liter of water) helps very well when buds begin to form. This helps to avoid the attack of many pests.
Daffodil Care Quick Tips
To be a true expert in caring for daffodils after flowering, there is a lot to know about these flowers. Many gardeners accumulate knowledge and experience over many years. This collection has collected some of the most useful and effective methods for caring for daffodils:
- when cutting dry leaves, do not throw them away, it is better to leave them in the same place. When it comes time to dig up the bulbs, they will be much easier to find. This means that the probability of accidentally damaging the root system becomes minimal;
- if it was still not possible to carefully dig out all the bulbs completely, and some were slightly damaged, then you can reanimate them. To give them a second chance, dust them with wood ash and store them in a warm, dry place. After a while, you will see which can be landed and which have been irreparably damaged;
- We already know that daffodil bulbs emit a certain gas that is harmful to them. In addition, it is worth knowing that the bulbs are harmful to humans too. Because of this, when working with them, use gloves, constantly ventilate the room or be outside. Be sure to wash your hands with soap after you finish working with daffodils;
- In daffodils that grow in one place for a long time, the root system also grows to an impressive size. When working with such flowers, in particular, when transplanting, it is better to use a large shovel. This will simplify the whole process and keep the roots intact;
- do not forget to treat the bulbs before storage with disinfectant solutions, this will help to avoid many diseases. It is also worth processing during transplantation if the bulbs were not in storage;
- when storing, there should be no poorly breathing containers, as daffodil bulbs will not survive in such places;
- Before planting, all bulbs must be treated against various pests, diseases and viruses. It is much easier and more effective to carry out prevention than to treat later.
Caring for daffodils is a hassle, and caring for daffodils after flowering is one of the most important steps in how healthy and beautiful your flowers will be next season. Follow the methods and tips that have been collected in this article so that the flower bed near your home is always lush, bright and well-groomed.
When and how to prune daffodils after flowering?
When and how to prune daffodils after flowering?
- Why trim daffodils?
- Timing
- Step-by-step instructions
- Recommendations
Daffodils are delicate perennial flowering plants with a rich aroma. To date, there are more than 100 species of these flowers. Many gardeners love them for their early spring flowering, pleasant smell and aesthetic beauty. Narcissus propagates by bulbs, and for a good shoot and flowering, the head must receive the maximum supply of useful nutrients.
Why trim daffodils?
Trimming daffodil leaves helps preserve bulb nutrients. Properly prepared bulbs overwinter better in the open field and are well stored at home.
Green elastic leaves must not be cut at the root. Before the foliage withers, the basis for future flowering is laid in the rhizome through the outflow of beneficial trace elements from the tops.
Narcissus foliage may remain green up to 2.5 months after the buds have faded. When the bulb is finally ripe, the tops become soft and lie on the ground. If you cut the succulent leaves too close to the ground, the rhizome will not receive proper nutrition.
Flowers next year will be small or very few, and in some cases there may be no buds at all.
Immediately after flowering, the leaves of daffodils can be cut with a dry and clean pruner to the middle (in height) so that they do not interfere with neighboring plants. It is better to trim the entire haulm at the same level - this is not only aesthetically pleasing, but also useful for the pigmentation of the bulb.
It is not recommended to tie up decaying leaves, as this will prevent the natural death of the tops, impair ventilation and make it difficult to evenly illuminate the sun, which can cause leaf rot.
Timing
If you plan to dig up the bulbs for the winter, then this should be done when the leaves turn yellow. It is not worth returning the plant when planting to its original place, since the earth should “rest” for several years.
Narcissus flower stalks do not have leaves, so cutting the stems does not affect the bulbs at all. However, the formation of new seeds will take some of the nutrients from the rhizome, so it is better to cut off the faded buds immediately.
There is no exact date for pruning daffodils, it is necessary to observe the condition of the leaves and weather changes (preferably before the first frost). Cut off the foliage at the root only after the tops have almost completely turned yellow, so that the bulb survives the winter in a dormant state and is ready for a new shoot.
After the end of flowering, the plant must be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer and left alone for at least 2 weeks, maintaining the usual watering regimen.
Daffodils should be dug up no earlier than 2 months after the end of flowering. If you are late with this procedure, the plant will re-root and will very poorly tolerate division into bulbs. For digging, do not wait until the tops are completely on the ground, as it will be difficult to determine the boundaries of the bulbs.
Step-by-step instructions
Proper and timely pruning of narcissus leaves will guarantee lush flowering next year. Cut daffodils after flowering at the root should not be immediately, the whole procedure will look like this:
- when the buds wither, dry stems with flowers should be cut off immediately, while the leaves should be left;
- further, when the bush begins to disintegrate, the tops can be cut to half in height;
- after cutting, the soil should be carefully loosened;
- then the plant must be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer;
- then daffodils should be watered for about 2 weeks, gradually reducing the amount of water and the frequency of watering;
- after the leaves have completely turned yellow, they should be cut as close to the ground as possible, at a height of about 5 cm.
The next steps depend on whether the bulbs will be transplanted or dug up for storage.
If wintering in the ground without replanting is expected, the rhizome should be mulched before the first frost with dry grass, peat or wood ash. Covering daffodils is also necessary if there is often a thaw in winter and then frost hits: the bulbs can begin to germinate during the thaw and die from a sharp drop in temperature.
If the heads are dug up for storage, they must be carefully cleaned of large clods of earth and allowed to dry at a temperature of 22-24 degrees in a well-ventilated area. Dried onions should be wrapped in white writing paper (thinner than xerox paper and free of harmful printing ink found on newspapers). It is recommended to store the bulbs at a temperature of 10-15 degrees in a dry and dark place.
Daffodils should be planted at the end of September, about a month before the first frost, so that the bulb has time to take root in warm soil. If the flower bud inside the head freezes or does not have time to take root, the flower will not bloom.
Recommendations
Daffodils will delight with their lush blooms for many years, if they are properly selected, planted and properly cared for.
- Care must be taken when buying: a mature head of narcissus is indicated in the store as a "bulb of the third analysis" and has an average size. Flowering bulbs have a destroyed root system and will not take root, and small heads are babies, they have an insufficient supply of nutrients, they will die without a mother bulb.
- Every 3-5 years, the bulbs must be planted, because in 1 year up to 5 children can grow on the mother bulb, and the original bulb may rot from lack of nutrition. However, there are some varieties that require an annual transplant, such as terry daffodil.
- Heads should be treated with a disinfectant solution before planting.
- Plant no more than 5 bulbs per nest.
- Optimum planting depth for daffodils is 16 cm. If planted too deep, the plant will not bloom.
In addition to the basic care and proper pruning of leaves, it is important to feed this plant in a timely manner:
- the first spring feeding is done with the appearance of the first shoots;
- next - when the first buds begin to appear;
- the third - during the flowering period;
- final - after the buds have dried.
Narcissus leaves remain green for a long time, so it is best to plant them in a bed with late flowering plants.
If you properly trim the tops after flowering, feed and plant the bulbs in a timely manner, then daffodils will decorate the garden with their flowering and aroma for many years.
How to care for daffodils after flowering, see below.
Caring for daffodils after flowering
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Daffodils are a symbol of youth, beauty and affection. Cultivation is easy due to unpretentiousness and quick adaptation during reproduction and transplantation. However, there are periods when this decorative flower needs special attention and care. By providing the necessary conditions, you can be sure of timely and abundant flowering next season.
- When the daffodils bloom
- What to do with the plant after flowering
- Bulb digging
- Bulb separation
- Bulb storage
- Frequency of procedure
- What happens if you ignore procedure
When daffodils bloom
Outdoors, daffodils begin to bloom in mid-spring - in April - May, 2 weeks earlier than tulips. Flowering time depends on the variety and climatic conditions. In warm climates, daffodils bloom a few weeks earlier than in cool ones. For example, in the south, flowering begins in early April. In the north - not before summer.
Flowering lasts only 2 weeks. They begin to bloom at the end of May at the same time as tulips. After that, the plant must be carefully looked after, since this time is the most important in its life and care will determine how it will grow and bloom in the future.
What to do with the plant after flowering
As soon as the petals have fallen, the flower stalks should be immediately cut off with a garden pruner at the very surface of the earth. This should be done so that the seeds that are stored in the box do not draw out the juices of the plant during the dormant period.
It is not advisable to remove the leaves, as they continue the process of photosynthesis, which ensures the life of the plant. It is better to wait for natural yellowing and drying, and only after that they can be cut or tied into pigtails to give a more aesthetic appearance to the plant and the flower bed as a whole.
Leaf wilting takes about 7 weeks. As long as the leaves remain fresh, the flowers should be watered as usual. And as soon as they begin to dry out and turn yellow - gradually stop watering. Separately, it is worth mentioning feeding. It is necessary to fertilize for the full ripening of the bulbs and the formation of full-fledged children on it.
Suitable options for fertilizing daffodils after flowering:
- fertilizer containing potassium and phosphorus. For example, wood ash at the rate of 0.5 l per 1 m². It needs to be distributed over the area, loosen the ground, then water it for easier absorption into the soil;
- organic food . Humus or rotted manure is perfect (1 bucket per 1 m²). It is absolutely impossible to use fresh manure, as it contains harmful bacteria and infections that can provoke plant diseases;
- ready-to-use mineral fertilizer "Monokaliyphosphate" (P2O5 - 52%, K2O - 34%). Dilute in water and apply to the soil around the flowers 50 g per 1 m². Watering is not necessary.
Then you can start digging and dividing the bulbs.
Digging out the bulbs
Digging out the bulbs should only be started when the leaves are completely dry and lying on the ground. At the same time, one should not hesitate and allow the complete disappearance of the foliage, otherwise the place where the bulbs grow will be difficult to find, and when dug up, they may be damaged. It is also important to dig up the bulbs in time, because they can take root again and the procedure will become extremely traumatic for them.
Extraction from the ground is necessary for transplanting to a new place if the flower is more than three years old, or if it is planned to divide the bulbs and propagate daffodils. Otherwise, they are left to root again. For the winter, it is necessary to protect the area where the bulbs grow with a film and cover with mulch. For this, peat, files and dry foliage are useful.
To dig bulbs suitable for propagation and transplanting, you need to follow a few simple rules:
- It is necessary to extract from the soil only at the end of June-beginning of July, since the rooting process begins in August.
- Withered leaves left on the ground will help determine the landing site.
- Be very careful not to damage the bulbs and roots.
- You need to dig out together with a clod of earth.
Dividing the bulbs
After digging out the bulbs, you can start dividing them. The need for this arises when the flowering becomes smaller, the peduncles become smaller, and the foliage grows chaotically and spoils the appearance of the plant.
Separation scheme:
- Loosen the dug bulbs from the ground by lightly shaking them off.
- Sort through, removing weak and diseased bulbs.
- Cut leaves, leave roots.
- Spread in containers in a single layer and store in a well ventilated area until completely dry. It usually takes no more than three days.
- Separate the babies from the adult bulb. Disinfect the place of separation with ashes.
The bulbs can then be transplanted in August or stored until the next season.
Bulb storage
Bulb storage allows replanting to a more suitable time if it is not possible to plant in August or September. The fact is that it is impossible to plant narcissus bulbs in late autumn, because the roots will not have time to strengthen before the onset of cold weather. You can transfer the planting of propagated flowers to spring. Before sending the bulbs for storage, they must be treated in a concentrated solution of manganese and disinfected with insecticides, for example, Karbofos and Fufanon.
Store in a shady place at 0%. Basement and cellar are well suited for this purpose. Can also be stored in the refrigerator (not the freezer!), but in this case, the shelf life should not exceed two months. Young bulbs that have overwintered at home are suitable for planting in the spring, immediately after the snow melts.
Frequency of the procedure
It is necessary to cut the peduncles and tie up the leaves every season, immediately after the end of flowering. Top dressings are applied at the same time. Then the plant is provided with rest and conditions for wintering: is covered with a film, or insulated with mulch (sawdust and dry leaves).
Daffodils are divided three years after planting. This is due to the fact that during this time the flower forms the root system and develops. If you dig the bulbs before this time, the plant will stop blooming and stop growing. In this case, there will be no flowering.
What will happen if the procedure is ignored
Daffodils need to be dug up and replanted every 4-5 years, otherwise they will grow densely, preventing each other from growing and developing. As a result, flowering will become more scarce, and the leaves will grow far and become tangled. Flowers quickly run wild and form an overgrown grassy mass.
In addition, the bulbs can be infected with various diseases that can only be detected after being removed from the ground. If this is not done in time, the disease can spread to healthy plants. Regular and timely intervention to maintain the health and beauty of flowers. Delicate and fragile daffodils symbolize spring, filling flower gardens with many colors and unique aroma.
They are planted in the country, decorate flower beds, grown for trimming and decorating bouquets.
In order for daffodils to enjoy flowering for many years, they need to create suitable conditions and take care of them in a timely manner. These delicate flowers need especially care in the period following flowering. Only thanks to regular control and care, daffodils will survive the winter safely and will delight with abundant flowering and neat appearance, characteristic of decorative flowers.
Daffodils have faded. Braiding foliage and other important work on daffodils
Good afternoon, dear friends, gardeners and gardeners! I welcome you to the website of channel "Country Stories".
Narcissists have a lot of fans. These flowers are one of the first to bloom, attracting attention with their captivating aroma and delightful beauty. The flowering of daffodils goes along with tulips and usually occurs in early May. For all their beauty, daffodils do not bloom for long, but they also need minimal care.
What to do with daffodils after flowering?
- In addition to beautiful flowers, narcissus bulbs produce a lot of green leaves that should never be cut. From the leaves, there will be an outflow of nutrients into the bulb. Until the foliage withers, the plant will use photosynthesis to make reserves for the next year. This period can take from 2 to 3 weeks.
- Faded flower stalks should be trimmed, as seeds will ripen in them, which will take on some of the nutrients from the bulb. It is difficult to name the exact date for the work, because. in all regions, flowers bloom at different times. Pruning of faded buds can be done immediately after flowering, and the tops can be slightly trimmed if they begin to disintegrate. Cut the leaves at the base only after they have completely turned yellow.
- At the end of flowering, it is advisable to feed daffodils with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, for example, superphosphate. In the future, plants require only watering in especially dry weather for a month.
A method that eliminates the need for leaf pruning.
In early spring, daffodils dominate the flower bed, but soon they fade. The abundance of foliage prevents undersized neighbors from showing themselves in all their glory. However, green leaves cannot be cut, but it is not clear what to do with them. There is a very clever way to solve this problem.
So that daffodils do not interfere with other plants in the flower bed, their leaves are collected in a braid. This technique allows you to free up space, allowing neighboring plants to receive their portion of sunlight. The leaves collected in braids are not injured by gusts of wind and continue to vegetate for the period they are supposed to.
Braiding daffodil leaves is a matter of five minutes. You need to take a few leaves from 1-2 plants and distribute them into three equal parts. They begin to weave right at the surface of the soil, gradually rising higher. The remaining 10 cm tips can be tied with one of the leaves or use twine.
When a lot of daffodils grow in a flower bed, after such a procedure, the flower bed will be decorated not with green leaves sticking up in all directions, but with beautiful and original pigtails creeping along the surface of the soil.
How to prepare daffodils for digging and storage?
Many gardeners dig up bulbs to rest. This procedure should be carried out only after the end of the growing season, when all the leaves turn yellow. The dug out bulbs are dried in a dark, well-ventilated area and stored until planting.
Bulbs should preferably be planted in the ground 1 month before the onset of cold weather. Landing is done in the same way as in the case of tulips.
Usually daffodils are transplanted once every 5 years. In one year, from 3 to 5 "children" grow on the mother's bulb. If the bulbs are not planted, then the mother bulb may rot due to lack of nutrition. With thickened plantings, plants interfere with each other to grow and develop properly.
There are varieties that need to be replanted every year, such as terry. The gardener must make the decision to transplant, focusing on the condition of the daffodils. If the inflorescences become small or there is no flowering at all, this is a sure sign that it is time to plant the bulbs.
Many fungal diseases cannot be seen with the naked eye. To understand that the plant is infected, you can only dig up the bulb. If this is not done in time, then the disease will very quickly spread to neighboring plants.
If you regularly carry out all the necessary procedures and follow the rules of care, then every year daffodils will delight the gardener with bright colors and a delicate aroma.
Tips for summer residents: do daffodils need a haircut?
We learned from experts how to care for capricious daffodils and whether they need a haircut
Unpretentious daffodils, diverse in shape, size of flowers, color and resistant to adverse conditions, inhabit many gardens near Moscow. Exuberant May flowering pleases gardeners, but what to do with the leaves after it ends? Cut or not?
We start from the nature of the plant. The root system of narcissus is perennial. The roots live at the expense of the bulb, which grows from the inside and on which, in turn, children appear, giving life to a new plant. The more nutrient reserves the bulb retains, the more strength the plant will have for flowering next year. And this process of accumulation of nutrition is directly related to the leaves. While the leaves remain green (sometimes even until August), there is an accumulation of nutrients in the scales of the bulbs.
Hence the conclusion: it is impossible to cut the leaves of daffodils immediately after flowering. For a better future, you will have to endure a not-too-pretty present. Moreover, try to keep the soil moist both during the formation of buds and during flowering, until the leaves wither.
So that drying leaves do not spoil the harmony of your flower garden, consider this feature of the bulbs even when planting and combine daffodils with other perennials: daylilies, hostas, geyhers, astilbes and brunners, which, growing by the summer season, will cover the withered foliage with their green “wings” .
There is an interesting and very effective design technique: slightly drooping narcissus leaves that have fallen apart to the sides are collected like hair in a bun and braided, which are then laid on the ground. And the beauty of the garden, and the benefits of the plant.
With good care, daffodils can grow in one place for 4-6 years. Then the overgrown bulb nests must be divided. The best time for digging is mid-July, when the foliage turns yellow. If you are not going to divide and replant the plant, then in July just cut off the withered foliage.
The story is similar with other bulbous tulips. Their bulbs also gain strength from the leaves. Therefore, when cutting flowers, never cut the leaves completely. At least two large lower leaves should remain on the plant. By the way, it is better not to cut tulips with a knife, but to break off. When cutting, you can transfer viruses with a knife (this is the scourge of culture) from one plant to another. So break, and better early in the morning when they are fragile.
Tulips are dug up every year when they bloom, but not before. It is advisable to dig up tulips when their leaves turn yellow and almost completely dry out. It is not necessary to wait until the entire above-ground part dies. If you dig up tulips early, then the replacement bulb (the bulb of a tulip is replaced every year with a new one) of the next year will not have time to form and will have a white cover. That is, in this case, you will get an underdeveloped bulb that can grow next year, but such an bulb will not bloom. We must wait until the leaves turn yellow, the integument of the bulb will acquire the shade of baked milk and become slightly yellowish.
In the meantime, cut tulips and daffodils decorate your home. But! They cannot live in one vase, because the milky juice of daffodils causes tulips to wither.
What can not be said about the cohabitation of these cultures in a flower garden. Gardeners say that mice and shrews do not tolerate the smell of daffodil bulbs and leave the places where they grow. Here's a great way to get rid of rodents and save tulips without resorting to the use of chemicals and other unsafe methods. Plant tulips in close proximity to daffodils, and not only save expensive bulbs, but also get a lovely flower garden - the best decoration of a spring garden.
Narcissus bulbs do not change completely, they grow from the inside, and their roots are always functioning. Therefore, daffodils can not be dug up for many years. They also have flower buds at lower temperatures, at about 17 degrees and even lower, so they can do without digging. And they keep the leaves for quite a long time, sometimes even until August. And you can always transplant daffodils, even at the time of flowering. But there are a few exceptions.
- First, the overdensity. Usually daffodils are transplanted after two to three years. After four or five bulbs in the nest there is not enough space, they become smaller and do not bloom.
- Secondly, excessive shade, if, for example, flowers are planted under fruit trees. At least half of the daylight hours daffodils should be in the sun.
- Thirdly, insufficient water regime: daffodils need good watering within one to one and a half months after the end of flowering. This is especially important if the soil is sandy.
- Fourthly, flowers could be damaged by insects, diseases, frost.
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- Tips for summer residents: how to protect the garden from frost?
When to cut faded tulips and daffodils for wintering
Tulips are very beautiful during flowering, but this period does not last long. Literally after a few days, the flowers begin to fade and look no longer so attractive. Not all flower growers know how to care for tulips after flowering, and make annoying mistakes when trying to immediately cut or dig up the bulbs.
- What to do after tulips bloom
- Do daffodils need a haircut?
- When to prune daffodils after flowering for the winter?
What to do after tulips bloom
Caring for tulips after flowering is quite simple. The main rule is that the flowers cannot be cut or dug up immediately. For several weeks, it is recommended to water and feed the plant well. This feature is due to the fact that when the flower fades, tulip bulbs continue to accumulate nutrients for about three weeks. Premature digging deprives them of this opportunity, so next year the flowering of tulips may be less plentiful.
After the final withering, the peduncle is carefully removed. This will allow the plant not to waste energy on the need for seed ripening. It is impossible to cut the leaves immediately, because when they are removed immediately after flowering, the development of the bulbs lags behind. It is necessary to provide tulips with sufficient watering and fertilizing with fertilizers.
Many gardeners at this time have a desire to remove the yellow leaves, but this should not be done. Experienced gardeners recommend simply pressing them to the ground or planting perennials along with tulips to give the flowerbed an aesthetic look during this period. You can decorate the flower garden during this period by first planting daffodils or phloxes with tulips.
Within a few weeks, the tulip leaves will naturally wither and can be cut. In order not to lose the place for planting flowers after the leaves have dried, it is recommended that you first make guide notes by which you can easily find it.
Do daffodils need a haircut?
Unpretentious daffodils, diverse in shape, size of flowers, color, and resistant to adverse conditions, inhabit many gardens near Moscow. Exuberant May flowering pleases gardeners, but what to do with the leaves after it ends? Cut or not?
We start from the nature of the plant. The root system of narcissus is perennial. The roots live at the expense of the bulb, which grows from the inside and on which, in turn, children appear, giving life to a new plant. The more nutrient reserves the bulb retains, the more strength the plant will have for flowering next year. And this process of accumulation of nutrition is directly related to the leaves. While the leaves remain green (sometimes even until August), there is an accumulation of nutrients in the scales of the bulbs.
Hence the conclusion: it is impossible to cut the leaves of daffodils immediately after flowering. For a better future, you will have to endure a not-too-pretty present. Moreover, try to keep the soil moist both during the formation of buds and during flowering, until the leaves wither.
So that drying leaves do not spoil the harmony of your flower garden, consider this feature of the bulbs even when planting and combine daffodils with other perennials: daylilies, hostas, geyhers, astilbes and brunners, which, growing by the summer season, will cover the withered foliage with their green “wings” .
There is an interesting and very effective design technique: slightly drooping narcissus leaves that have fallen apart to the sides are collected like hair in a bun and braided, which are then laid on the ground. And the beauty of the garden, and the benefits of the plant.
When to prune daffodils after flowering for the winter?
When the plants have finished blooming, they need to be fertilized. Choose a fertilizer with a high percentage of phosphorus and potassium. Now you need to wait until the leaves are completely dry, then remove them and loosen the soil. There is an opinion that daffodils are unpretentious and do well without covering before winter, but it is erroneous. In particular, plants need this if they were planted in the 2nd half of September. This is a late planting, because, before the onset of cold weather, the flowers do not have time to fully adapt and may not survive in a frosty snowless winter.
Large-flowered varieties of daffodils are the most vulnerable to frost. To protect them from freezing - cover the flowers with dry fallen leaves, peat, dry grass, wood ash or special mulching materials (for example, agrofibre). The soil needs to be mulched before frost hits. How to properly mulch the soil, you can learn from the article: "Rules for mulching the soil." It is possible to remove the mulch layer only in the spring, when there will be no sudden changes in temperature and the risk of frost on the street.
Daffodils have faded - what should a gardener do next?
Daffodils have faded, what to do next. Summer cottages cannot be imagined without flowers. One of the delightful and delicate representatives of the flower world are dazzling daffodils. Each plant has a period of growth, flowering, wilting. When the daffodils have faded, steps must be taken to preserve the plant and divide it for propagation. Young, newly formed bulbs are not dug up.
Only old rhizomes that have germinated for a certain number of years undergo division. Love for these plants is not without reason, they have a pleasant smell, white or yellow petals, which give airiness and create a favorable environment in the garden.
Vegetative propagation of plants
- Vegetative propagation of bulbs. For plant propagation, a vegetative method is used, which will ensure rational and efficient division. Daffodils have faded, it is necessary to determine the tubers for division or let them grow for several years to strengthen;
- Three-year growth limit of a plant for propagation. It all depends on the age of the plant. The normal breeding period for daffodils is a three-year growth period. During this time, the plant is not dug up, the root system is not disturbed, and the bulbs are not divided. The flower must gain strength and grow strong. Digging earlier daffodils from the ground will damage the bulbs.;
- Digging up daffodils for dividing into bulbs. At the onset of the period of division of daffodils, the plant is dug up. Division occurs by bulbs, by detaching small bulbs from the main part (mother). It is undesirable to constantly dig up daffodils and propagate them, because the process of rooting in the ground cover is poor. The root system does not receive normal nutrition, the flower does not grow to the desired size and will not bloom well. The process of division requires careful attention. When flowers are subjected to constant removal from the ground, their proper strengthening and nutrition in the soil may be disrupted. The bulbs develop in the soil when they are there.
Bulbs are dug out of the ground after three years of plant growth.
- Dividing daffodils into bulbs. Daffodils have faded, the result of this period will be the division of the bulbs for further seedlings. Early division of the bulbous root into parts will result in no flowering within two years of planting;
- Digging up a flower in compliance with the growth period. Within two years, the flower will gain strength, take root, grow underground. By weakened flowering, you can understand that you need to transplant flowers. Bulbs under the ground begin to crowd out each other, they need to be planted in different holes for the further growth of the plant. The best option would be transplanting after 4 years from the date of planting. The period can be up to 6 years.
It all depends on the plant, its needs and appearance. Proper care will lead to healthy plant growth and normal reproduction. The determination of the need for a transplant occurs by the detection of yellowed foliage, which indicates the end of flowering.
Caring for bulbs
- Determination of the period for digging daffodils out of the ground. From the yellow foliage, it becomes clear that daffodils require transplanting and dividing, but subject to a three-year period of growth in the ground. When the daffodils have faded, do not expect complete wilting, the yellow leaves should be left with the bulbs until the leaf blades dry out. The leaves indicate the location of the bulbs underground. If everything is done according to the proposed description, then damage to the plant will not occur .;
- Digging up a plant with a gardening fork. A good option for removing the bulbs from the soil is to dig with a gardening fork. The yellowed foliage is cut off, and the roots with processes remain. Leaves of daffodils are not cut, they should remain. From the yellowed foliage, the bulb takes useful substances and collects in reserve;
- Bulb nutrient kit after digging. The nutrient intake period can last 2 months. The leaves around the bulb can be twisted into pigtails so that they do not wilt and spoil the look. They can be hidden in nearby planted plants;
- Caring for excavated bulbs before planting in the ground. Dug out bulbs should be placed in a dry, cool and dark place. The ground in which they were should fall from them, then they should be divided into parts. Bulbs, left without land, are fed by air. Breathe, moisture evaporates from them. For a proper landing, you need not to postpone the process, but to complete it in a short time. The period when daffodils are stored without land is about 1 or 2 months, no more. Then the flowers are planted in the ground.
Planting the bulbs in the soil not too deep into the ground, keeping a distance of 10 cm between the bushes. It is better to add fertilizer in the amount of 1 teaspoon per bulb of the mineral composition and the ash of the wood component - 1 cup per 3 pieces of the bulb.
Before the onset of cold weather, daffodils harden in the soil and take root.It is necessary to plant at the end of August or September. Until winter they will feel fine. Cover the planted bulbs for the winter with a peat composition or dry leaves.
The method of propagation of flowers is vegetative. A plant can be grown with seeds if selective breeding is a priority. Bulbs propagate rare species that need to be planted with one hundred percent quality. The bulbs are divided into 4-6 parts, sprayed with a stimulant. When everything is ready, there is a landing in boxes. A sterile substrate must be present at the landing site. Flowering of children begins from the third year after planting. After flowering, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, but the onion composition contains useful substances that nourish and promote the development of organs.
Dividing the bulb into pieces
The bulb is a perennial tuber. Its growth occurs in 4 years. Initially, a young bulb is planted in the ground, and then it develops and becomes an adult plant. When digging up the root, it will be seen that not all the bulbs have separated from the mother's main one. They are attached to it and form a single whole.
Nest division is at the discretion of the grower. Secondary bulbs are rounded, taken away from the bottom of the mother part easily. When excavating, such formations must immediately be divided into parts. Young onions appear flatter, the shape is not the same as that of the mother. Without applying force pressure, separation is easy.
By swinging the bulb, it will be clear if it breaks off from the common part. The fracture site will be dry. The flat shape makes it difficult to break.
When broken, the living tissue of the plant is visible, without drained areas. The place of the tear is sprinkled with finely crushed coal or handfuls of ash.
Storage of bulbs
Storage is done by free arrangement of parts. The fracture surface tightens and becomes dry. There must be clean air in the room .
Do not stack in a room dominated by a musty space in which there is no oxygen.
Bulbing occurs before storage, do not do this before planting. The tubers will not gain strength and nutrients. In the event of a break before planting, infectious organisms will get into the bottom of the bulb, the tuber will be spoiled. It will dry out and hurt.
Before being put away for storage, the bulbs are cleaned of foliage, divided into piles, treated against infection, ticks with special preparations. The emulsion composition in the amount of 5 milliliters is poured into 1 liter of water. Disinfection is carried out in 30 minutes. The pickling process is replaced by air drying in open spaces or on the street. The sun should not affect and dry out the plants. Indoor storage must comply with the requirement. The air temperature is + 18 °C and + 20 °C. Until the process of planting in the ground takes place, the bulbs should be stored in a dark, cool room.