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Cutting back dahlias


How to Overwinter Dahlias

Dahlias are at their best in late summer and fall, when the plants are mature and pumping out tons of blooms. But before the first frost, you have a decision to make. Will you treat your dahlias as annuals and plant a fresh batch of tubers next spring, or save the tubers from your favorite varieties and grow them again next year? If you want to try your hand at overwintering some tubers, read on for step-by-step instructions.

To Dig or Not to Dig

Dahlias are are warm climate plants and they do not tolerate freezing temperatures. If you live in hardiness zones 8-10, where winter temperatures rarely fall below 20° F, the soil provides enough insulation to protect the tubers and it's safe to leave them right in the ground. In late fall, simply cut the plants back to several inches above soil level. They will start growing again in spring.

Dahlia tubers may survive a mild winter outdoors in zone 7 (as long as the soil is well drained and the area is thickly mulched). But in most of zone 7 and in all of zones 3-6, dahlia tubers must be dug up and stored indoors.

For this task you need pruning shears, a shovel or digging fork, survey tape and marker, damp growing mix, and either big nursery pots, black plastic trash bags, paper bags or large boxes. Here's how to do it:

How to Dig and Store the Tubers

1. LABEL. Start by labeling your plants with survey tape (plastic plant labels are too easily lost). Be sure to do this BEFORE you get a frost so you can still see the flowers and evaluate which plants you want to keep. Save only the plants that are strong and healthy, and that really impressed you. There are tons of great dahlias out there and no reason to grow underwhelming ones.

2. CUT BACK. After the first hard frost, try to leave the tubers in the ground for a week or two. While waiting isn't essential, it does help to toughen the skin of the tubers. Don't cut down the plants until right before you dig them. This way water won't accumulate in the hollow stems. When you're ready to dig, cut back all of the stems to within 3-4” of the ground. Re-tie the labels as needed, so they are securely attached. If your dahlias were grown in containers, skip down to the section on packing and storage.

3. DIG. Dig up each root ball, starting at least a foot away from the stem. Depending on the size of the plant, the root ball may be 12” to 18” across and equally deep. Go slowly and be gentle, as the tubers are extremely brittle. During storage, damaged tubers are more susceptible to decay.

4. DRY. If possible, let the clumps air dry for a day or two. But make sure they are protected from frost. Tubers may be divided at this point, or you can wait and do it during the winter or early next spring. If you plan to divide your tubers later, there's no need to wash soil off the clumps. Just store the entire root ball as it came out of the ground. The soil gives them some natural protection from damage and rot. If you want to divide the tubers now (which will save on space if that's an issue) skip ahead to the dividing instructions below.

Packing and Storing Your Dahlias

5. PACK. If you are not dividing the root balls until spring, you can store them in several ways. You can put them in large nursery pots with barely damp potting soil. Or store them in ventilated cardboard boxes or large plastic storage tubs that are partially filled with growing mix, peat moss or vermiculite. Another option is to store several clumps together in a large black plastic trash bag.

Once your dahlias are in storage, the goal is to retain enough moisture to prevent the tubers from shriveling, but allow enough air circulation to avoid rot. This means keeping the tops of the storage tubs or plastic bags loose. The humidity level in your storage area makes a difference, so it may take a few seasons to arrive at the best solution. If the storage area is relatively humid, start with paper bags and boxes. If dry, go with tubs or plastic bags.

6. STORE. Store the pots, boxes or bags in a cool, dark, humid place where the temperature will stay between 40 and 50 degrees F. An unheated basement works well in the coldest climates. In zones 5 and 6 you may be able to keep them in an attached garage. Just make sure there's no chance that the tubers will freeze. A frozen tuber is a dead tuber.

 7. CHECK. Check on your dahlias periodically through the winter. If the storage conditions are too moist, you may get some mushy tubers. Remove them and increase the ventilation to reduce moisture levels. If the tubers are wrinkled and dry, mist them or add some damp growing mix to help them rehydrate.

Tips for Dividing and Replanting

In late winter or very early spring, pull out your dahlias and discard any tubers that are soft or have completely dried out. Then it's time to start dividing the root balls into manageable-sized clumps. If you want to skip dividing and simply replant an entire clump, go ahead. Otherwise, read on.

When dividing a clump of dahlia tubers, each division must wind up with one or more growth eyes. These eyes occur in a very specific location. In the photo below, some of the eyes have begun to sprout, so it's easy to see how they are clustered on the knobby part where the tuber is attached to the stem. No matter how good a tuber looks, if it doesn't have at least one eye, it will not grow a plant.

It takes practice to see the eyes, and dividing clumps of tubers can be intimidating. If you wait until early spring, some of the eyes will start to swell and sprout. This makes it easier to see where to make the cuts. To be on the safe side, you can simply divide large root balls into halves or quarters. Cut down through the middle of the clump, making sure to leave some of last year’s stem attached to each division.

To learn more, you can watch this video on our YouTube channel: How to Overwinter Dahlia Tubers, or read some of the following articles on our website: All About Dahlias, How to Pinch and Stake Dahlias, How to Plant Dahlias (video), and Dahlias: 8 Great Looks.

Learn More:

When To Cut Back Dahlias (And How To Do That)?

Dahlias are pretty flowers that come in a variety of colors. For a lush, attractive garden and beautiful bouquets, you need to take good care of them. You can do that by planting them correctly, in good soil, and cutting them back. How do you cut them back, and when should you do this? We consulted with experts who gave us the following answers. 

It's good to cut back your dahlias for fuller blooms, to remove disease, and prepare them for the winter. You ought to do this in late fall, in October, and November. There are three ways of pruning, including:

    1. To promote growth
    2. To prevent the spread of disease
    3. To prepare for the winter season

Continue reading to learn the reasons for pruning your dahlia flowers and the correct methods to cut them back. Included are the best season to prune and tips on how to grow healthy dahlias. 

 

When And How Do You Cut Back On Your Dahlias?

You can have fuller and healthier dahlias by cutting them back, which is quite easy to do. The three ways to prune them are discussed below:

To Promote Growth

You can encourage the growth of your flowers by pruning. The following steps will help you harvest more dahlia flowers:

Cut Off The Tips

When your dahlia flowers begin growing, four bunches of leaves emerge on each plant. They will have grown to a height between 12 and 16 inches, though they could grow taller.

On the fourth bunch of leaves from the bottom, cut off the top sprout that's between two leaves. By doing this, your plant will grow fuller, producing more flowers. 

You can cut using a pair of garden pruning scissors. Alternatively, you could nip it with your thumb and forefinger. To promote even more flowers to bloom, you can carry on cutting new growth throughout the growing season.  

Decide The Size Of Your Blooms

If you prefer giant flowers that grow up to 10 inches in diameter, control the number of stems to between three to five per plant. The energy in the plant will focus on growing a few large flowers, instead of many small ones.

If you prefer smaller flowers that grow only up to two inches in diameter, up to 10 stems per plant will suffice. 

Cut Off Faded Flowers

Remove the faded flowers, also known as deadheading, promoting the growth of more blooms. Cut back the stem to the point it meets another main stem. You can do this throughout the fall season. 

As dahlias continue growing, the stems become tough. Thus it's best to use a sharp tool to cut the flower. Examples of sharp-cutting tools include pruning shears like the one shown below or sharp scissors. 

Check out this pruning shears on Amazon.

When Deadheading Avoid The Rounded Buds

After all the petals have fallen during deadheading, there’ll be two types of buds, which are difficult to differentiate. One type of bud is cone-shaped, left after pruning the flower, and the other type is the new flower bud, round in shape.

Removing the deadheads boosts the growth of new buds. But, if you remove the new flower buds, the flowers will delay blooming. 

To Prevent The Spread Of Disease

The dahlia plant can be attacked by diseases such as wilt, powdery mildew, and stem rot, amongst others.

They are caused and transmitted by insects, pests, or as a result of damp and humid conditions. Dahlias can become unhealthy due to too much water, or inadequately drained soils. 

You can control the disease by cutting off the diseased flowers and plants by doing the following:

Cut The Parts of Dahlia That Have Disease

Cut off the parts of the dahlia flower that are turning brown, have brown spots, or are withered. This stops the spread of disease to other parts of the plant or from one plant to another. Throw away the bad parts by burying them deep in the soil or burning them.

Spray Fungicide

An example of a disease caused by fungus is the botrytis-blight. You can identify this disease when brown spots form on the petals. If not treated early, it can lead to the petals looking like they have gray wool on them. Diseases caused by fungus thrive in climates that are cool and wet. 

Have a look at this fungicide on Amazon.

If you live in such an area, you can spray a fungicide to treat the disease if you notice it early. However, most of these diseases can be fatal, meaning you might have to start planting again using disease-resistant tubers.

You can treat diseases caused by insects by using insecticides. Also, you can kill pests like slugs using insecticidal soap spray like the one shown below.

Have a look at this insecticidal soap spray on Amazon.

When you notice your plants looking different, find out immediately what’s causing it, and get treatment. You can get these online or in local garden shops.  

Pull Out Entire Plant That Has Knots

Dahlia plants can get affected by a disease called knot nematode. The root-knot nematode is a parasitic worm that attacks the roots and the soil around the root. The worm causes the knots or bumps to appear on the roots and may even deform the roots. 

The deformation prevents the plant from absorbing water and nutrients from the soil through the roots. The first signs you will notice include stunted growth and the plants turning yellow. The solution to this problem is to uproot all the affected plants. 

Professional growers can use nematicides, though these are not yet approved for home gardens. Therefore, you may have to grow new dahlias in a new part of your garden that is not affected by the disease. 

To treat the affected area, you can solarize by covering the soil with a plastic sheet. This allows the temperatures of the soil to rise to 120 degrees Fahrenheit, killing the nematodes. 

Another method for treating your soil includes heating the soil in the oven in portions. However, this is only practical if the area is small. 

Burn Dahlia Roots And Plants That Have Discolored Veins.

A discolored dahlia that has withered leaves is a sign it has a disease called verticillium wilt caused by a fungus. This disease can remain in the soil for many years, that can kill the plant if not treated. 

The solution is to uproot all the affected plants and burn them. However, you can throw them in the landfill if burning is not allowed in your area. 

Also, burn or throw away the plants if you see mosaic mottling on the leaves caused by aphids.

Reduce Wetness On Dahlias With Smut

Smut is a disease that causes white or pale spots to appear on the leaves. Inside the white spots are other light to brown spots. To treat this disease, use fungicides, and avoid watering above the plants. Instead, water the base of the plants, so that the water goes to the roots. 

Dig The Dahlia Bulbs Out Of The Ground

If you experience long winters it would be good to take the bulbs out of the ground during fall. Afterward, store them during the winter. According to the cold hardiness zones, you can leave your dahlias in the ground beginning from zone 8 and upwards. 

Prepare For The Winter Season

You can store your dahlia bulbs during the winter season by doing the following:

Cut Foliage Between Two And Four Inches Above The Ground

The dahlia foliage will turn black as it nears the end of its growing season or first frost. If you prefer, you can wait until this happens before you cut back the plant. Waiting will also prepare the bulb for storage. 

You can use a small spade to dig out the bulbs gently and shake the soil off the roots. If you notice any rotten bulbs, cut them away with a sharp knife.

Hang Bulbs To Dry 

Find a suitable place that is cool and dry, like your garden shade or basement, and hang the bulbs up to dry for about three weeks. Ensure the bulbs are completely dry before storing, or they will rot.  

Store The Bulbs

Store your dahlia bulbs in a container filled with loose material like sawdust and coarse sand. You could use any other suitable material so long as it is dry and loose to protect your bulbs from humidity. It prevents them from rotting.

So that you do not suffocate your bulbs, cover them with a breathable material. Store the container in a well-ventilated place that is free of frost. The correct temperatures should be between 35 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

However, keep checking on the bulbs throughout winter and throw away any that have rotted. With the arrival of spring, you can plant the dahlia bulbs. 

How To Grow Healthy Dahlias

The following are tips on how to grow healthy dahlias

         

    You can find this fertilizer for your flowers on Amazon.

In Closing

Dahlias are pretty flowers that need good care to bloom. Cutting back, using fertilizer, and spraying the necessary insecticides or fungicides, will give you a large harvest of healthy blooms.

You may read our previous posts below:

Dahlia Buds Not Opening

Why Are My Dahlias Dying

 

 

dahlia cultivation and care, landing, transplanting, wintering, reproduction, illness, photo and video

Content

  • 3 Flowering dahlias
  • 4 Pruning dahlias
  • 5 Wintering dahlias
  • 6 Frequently asked questions
  • 7 Diseases and pests of dahlias
  • 8 Dahlia Care Video

    • Dahlia Care

    Dahlia Homeland

    Dahlias are perennial, long-flowering plants belonging to the Asteraceae family, originally from Mexico. Dahlias were discovered as early as the sixteenth century: their tubers were grown by indigenous peoples for food, the Aztecs used them to treat epilepsy, and used their long, hollow stems as plumbing on the farm. In Europe, dahlias appeared only in the eighteenth century. Now there are 42 species and thousands of varieties of this plant.

    Appearance of the plant

    Dahlia is a perennial with fleshy, storage roots (root tubers), straight stems, reaching a length of 30 to 250 cm. The leaves are pinnate, often dark green, rarely red-brown. The inflorescence is represented by a basket from 3 to 30 cm in diameter.
    Most species of dahlias are odorless, and like most plants that do not attract insect pollinators with fragrance, they are brightly colored, showing many hues except for blue.

    Watering regimen

    Dahlias are watered not too abundantly, wetting the soil layer by 25-30 cm, once or twice a week. It is necessary to focus on weather conditions: in hot weather without rain, watering is increased. Avoid standing water to prevent root rot.

    Light requirements

    Dahlia daylight hours - at least six hours. Both brightly lit and partially shaded areas are suitable for landing. They can survive even in the shade of larger plants, but the quality of flowering will suffer.

    Temperature regime

    Dahlias do not hibernate in the ground in our climate. Planted in the spring, they endure all the differences in the Ural weather until autumn. (It is necessary to provide for the so-called "return" frosts, which are not uncommon in our region, and plant dahlias in open ground only after them).

    Fertilizer, top dressing

    Dahlias are fertilized with low-nitrogen mixtures, since at a high nitrogen content the bush gains leaf mass, blooms poorly and forms weak tubers that rot or dry out during storage. Fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus are recommended. The frequency of feeding is once every three to four weeks. If the plant is planted in sufficiently nutritious soil, there is no need to feed it. Moreover, overfed dahlias form weak tubers that are poorly suitable for reproduction.

    Propagation of dahlias

    Dahlias thrive in almost all soils, from rich, humus-rich garden loam to fertilized sandy soil.

    Dahlias are propagated:

    Propagation by tubers:

    At the end of September, the stems are cut at a distance of 10-12 cm from the root collar and the tubers are carefully dug up. They are dried and stored in a ventilated room at a temperature of +3 to +7°C.

    Experienced growers recommend soaking the tubers in an aqueous fungicide solution for 10-15 minutes. If the tuber has not drowned, you can safely throw it away, this one will not survive until spring. Then the roots must be dried and can be laid for winter storage. Shortly before planting, the tuber is divided into two or three parts with a sharp knife so that on each separated piece there is a piece of the root neck with two or three "eyes".

    Dahlias are planted outdoors in late May-early June, when the danger of frost has passed. They dig a hole the length of a shovel bayonet, if necessary, add manure, superphosphate to the hole, mix it, water it abundantly, drive in a support about 150 cm long to tie up the future bush. Then a tuber is planted in the hole.

    For early flowering, tubers can be pre-sprouted by planting them in light soil and covering with polyethylene (leave a hole for ventilation and spray periodically). The distance between plants is selected depending on the variety - from 20 cm for dwarf dahlias to 90 cm for tall ones.

    Dahlias are tied to the supports immediately upon planting, continuing as the bush grows.

    Propagation by cuttings:

    Cuttings can be carried out at the end of March-beginning of April, earlier: at the end of January - at the beginning of February, if there is additional lighting. The tubers are planted in light soil with the addition of humus and sand, after 2-3 weeks sprouts appear from sleeping eyes. When they reach 10-15 cm, it's time to cut. A cutting is a sprout with an internode that takes root both in the substrate and in water.

    It is better to cut with a “heel”, trying not to touch the rest of the dormant buds on the tuber. After cutting the first cuttings, dormant eyes will wake up on the rhizome, from which sprouts will appear again in 2-3 weeks. Thus, when propagating by cuttings, it is possible to obtain a “harvest” many times greater than that obtained by dividing the tuber.

    Moreover, the plants propagated by this method surpass those propagated by dividing the tuber in their flowering power and decorativeness, while retaining the "breed", that is, all the characteristics of the original variety.

    Only some simple varieties are propagated by seeds during breeding work.

    Flowering of dahlias

    The earliest flowering occurs 30 days after planting dahlias in the ground. Late flowering - after 70 days. Dahlia blooms until the end of September.

    To date, more than ten thousand varieties of dahlias are known, and every year breeders and gardeners bring out new varieties of this bright, attractive flower, so unpretentious in care.

    There is an international classification according to which dahlias are divided into 11 types depending on the type of inflorescence, stem height, bush size, double leaves, petal color, etc.:

    1. Single row , simple or non-double. These are low (from 40 to 60 cm) plants with one row of marginal flowers up to 10 cm in diameter.
    2. Anemone (semi-double), also low - up to 70 cm, inflorescences with several rows of marginal flowers.
    3. Collared have a second row of twisted petals that differ in color from the flat flowers of the marginal row. Twisted flowers and form a "collar". Stem height up to 120 cm.
    4. Peony - with a yellow pad of yellow reed flowers in the middle, surrounded by several rows of marginal flat flowers.
    5. Decorative - fully double inflorescences, height reaches 150 cm. This is the largest class.
    6. Ball-shaped - completely terry with flattened spherical shape.
    7. Pompon-shaped - differ from spherical inflorescence diameter (up to 5 cm, unlike spherical - up to 15 cm in diameter).
    8. Cactus - reach a height of 150 cm. Terry inflorescences, up to 25 cm, with narrow petals, dissected at the end.
    9. Semi-cactus - a cross between cactus and ornamental, their marginal flowers are wider and not folded along the entire length, like cacti, but half or less.
    10. Nymphaeum or lotus - terry seven-row. The diameter varies from 5 to 20 cm, as does the height from 40 to 120 cm.
    11. Mixed, orchid or stellate rarely seen.

    Pruning dahlias

    Dahlias are not cut, but pinched and pinched. In the lateral axils of the leaves of the main stem, shoots are formed, which eventually stop growing and form an inflorescence. Their growth and development leads to a delay in flowering of the main stem, so they are removed as early as possible. If left unattended, the dahlia will begin to bush, there will be a lot of weak shoots and few bad inflorescences. It is recommended to grow dahlias in one stem, leaving two or three shoots.

    Wintering of dahlias


    Dahlias do not winter in the ground in our climate. After flowering in late September-October, dry shoots are cut off, the tubers are carefully dug up and carefully examined, removing damaged and overdried parts, and prepared for winter storage. The air temperature in the room where root tubers are stored should be from 3 to 7 ° C, humidity 80-85%.

    Frequently asked questions

    One of the reasons is flooding. Parts of the root that absorb moisture could rot and even die off - in the next watering, stimulate the roots with a rooter (Kornevin, for example). Another reason is pests, inspect the plant and treat with the appropriate preparation. Another option is lack of nutrition. Feed the plant by avoiding nitrogen fertilizers. And the simplest is the lack of watering.

    First, the planting material was stored incorrectly or was incorrectly selected. The second is fungal diseases or pests. There may also be a lack of watering and nutrients in the soil, as well as low temperatures.

    The reason is an excess of nitrogen in the soil.

    Diseases and pests of dahlia


    Fungal disease, accompanied by a white coating on the leaves. Appears with excessive dampness (cool, cloudy, wet weather or overflow). It can also appear with an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Or by contact: through irrigation water, brought by air from infected plants, transferred by hand from an infected plant. Remove damaged leaves and carry out therapeutic spraying.

    Yellowing appears along the veins of the leaves and spots of various shades of light green. Discard and burn.

    Most often found after digging, malformed buds and growths of about 10 cm appear on the roots. Discard and burn.

    Dahlias can be attacked by pests:

    Fight against aphids by spraying with chlorophos, dusting wet leaves with ash. Against powdery mildew, slobbering pennitsa, as well as aphids and flower beetles, they fight by spraying with urea. Slugs are harvested by hand, or it is necessary to sprinkle the paths adjacent to the landings with iron or copper sulfate or superphosphate. You can also process the leaves with a 10% decoction of capsicum.

    Dahlia care video

    Dahlia is one of the most unpretentious and most beautiful flowers. It grows on any soil, it is not picky about top dressing and watering, it can grow both in the open sun and in the shade. Even a novice florist can propagate and plant a plant, taking into account only a few nuances: proper storage of tubers, the correct planting time, diving and tying high stems. Growing them is surprisingly easy, so a rare grower will stop at one dahlia - once you start growing them, it's hard to stop.

    How to form a Georgin bush (whether it is necessary to cut, proper stepson)

    Content:

    Lush dahlias are the dominant element of the garden. In order for the plant to show all its charm, it needs care. Beginning summer residents often do not know whether it is necessary to cut off stepchildren from dahlias and how to form dahlias. Agronomists answer that a perennial crop grown from tubers needs shaping pruning. The work of removing excess greenery is quite simple, but has its own characteristics.

    Agrotechnics of horticultural perennials

    The culture is characterized by intensive growth, good immunity, long flowering. The first thing you should pay attention to when planting is a worthy place in the garden. Flowers tall, large. They demand a garden bed, located on public display. But the place should not be windy and without through air masses. It is best to plant planting material in a sunny zone or light partial shade, away from groundwater.

    Dahlias

    Planting perennials in open ground takes place strictly in spring, when the soil warms up sufficiently (up to +16 degrees). The month of May is coming. At the same time, an annual flower is planted. Planting material (tubers or seeds) is treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

    The earth must be loose and fertile. Compost and ash are added to the soil. At the bottom of the hole (its depth is about 50 cm), a little manure is placed, on which a layer of garden soil is thrown. Experienced gardeners recommend using only organic matter for planting events. Mineral fertilizers should be applied in the middle of summer. The tubers are buried 15-18 cm into the ground. Next, the hole is filled with soil mixture. The place is mulched. Sawdust mixed with peat is ideal as mulch.

    Additional information. Tall perennials are planted at a meter distance from each other. It is impossible to thicken landings. They also need support.

    Proper care includes:

    Stepson dahlias

    Watering is organized once every 3-4 days. As for top dressing, in the middle and end of summer, mineral mixtures are introduced under growing bushes, in which phosphorus and potassium predominate. Nitrogen there should be a minimum amount. Otherwise, the gardener will not wait for flower caps, but the greenery of the bush will be extremely lush.

    Domestic perennial farming

    The crop is also suitable for growing indoors or on a balcony. In order to grow a profusely flowering plant, you need a voluminous, strong and stable pot. The success of the business depends on the organization of the drainage system. Dahlias will quickly wither in waterlogged soil, in which there is not enough oxygen. The pot must have drainage holes, the bottom layer should be formed from stones and coffee filters. The soil is selected fertile, loose.

    How to pinch tomatoes

    Just like garden flowers, a home flower bed needs watering, loosening, fertilizing and other activities.

    Please note! For home cultivation, it is recommended to select low-growing varieties, as well as species with a not very growing root system.

    Why stepchild culture

    Flower growers assure that stepchildren of dahlias is an obligatory measure for the care of bushes. This is an integral part of the work on the formation of dahlias. Thanks to this manipulation, gardeners can achieve a chic spreading bush, abundantly strewn with flowers. Pruning dahlias in the summer suggests the optimal distribution of nutrients throughout the plant. By cutting off unnecessary sprouts, the culture receives more energy for the formation of buds and maximizes its flowering potential. The appearance of the culture after the procedure improves, resistance to viruses, fungi, and harmful insects increases.

    If dahlias are not pinched, then the flower will spend energy on nourishing all parts of the plant

    Dahlias - cultivation and care in the open field

    If you refuse to pinch dahlias, the culture will spend energy on nourishing all parts of the plant. As a result, more than half of the buds will not bloom, and those that will bloom will be small and exhausted. In addition, the problem of a heavily overgrown bush is that the tuberous roots will not dig up nutrients and may not survive the winter. Weakened tubers are more likely to rot and deteriorate.

    Important! The formation of dahlias should be performed only by those gardeners who grow tall bushes (stem length - about 2 meters), as well as plants with an average height (about a meter) in plots.

    Proper pruning

    Dahlias - description, botanical characteristics

    How to stepchild dahlias in detail?

    A simple process contains a number of important nuances, including:

    1. Work on the removal of emerald sprouts that appear in the axils of the leaves starts in June-early July. By this time, the bush begins to grow. Its size is 30-50 cm. There are 3-6 pairs of leaves on the stems.
    2. The procedure is carried out every 10-15 days, before the bush pours buds.
    3. Pasynkovanie held in the first half of the day. It is recommended to do this before 9-10 am. You can not cut an extra flower sprout early in the morning, when dew accumulates on the greenery.

    Pruning dahlias

    Step-by-step instruction

    How to form perennial dahlias

    In addition to pinching, the process of forming a bush includes other activities, for example:

    1. pinching;
    2. removal of trunks;
    3. leaf pruning.

    Pinching

    Before pinching dahlias, the tops that have formed in which the buds are set should be identified. If the tops are underdeveloped, they are left for growing. Pinch the tops 2-4 cm high, that is, cut off to the base of the upper pair of leaves.

    How to pinch a dahlia

    Pay attention! Thanks to this manipulation, the growth of the shoot is inhibited for some time. Nutrients are spent on the development of branches and the laying of new buds. If you do not pinch, instead of a sprawling bush with a lot of flowering caps, a giant stem with one or two massive flowers will grow.

    Pruning of shoots

    In order for the bush to look well-groomed, bloom early and have the strength to form lush flowers, excess shoots are removed. The scheme is as follows: 3-5 stems are left, the rest are cut off with a sharp knife at the root.

    Removal of leaves and buds

    Some gardeners ignore this procedure and consider it unnecessary. However, as practice shows, the removal of the lower leaf pairs allows the root collar of the flower to ripen as much as possible and provide the tubers with a supply of food.

    How to prune dahlias in summer correctly? Cut off mainly 2-3 pairs of lower leaves. So the root neck and stem open and ventilate as much as possible. Excess buds are removed in order to give nutrition to stronger and more developed brethren.

    Controlling the Growth of Dahlia Bushes

    Tips from Experienced Growers

    1. Before shaping and pinching dahlias, inspect the bushes. If traces of pests are visible, or there are symptoms of a disease, pruning dahlias in the summer should be postponed. First, there is treatment.
    2. All pruning activities are carried out with clean, sharp and disinfected tools. This will prevent pathogens from infecting the plant.
    3. Before you prune dahlias for better blooms, you need to pay attention to the weather. The day should be fine, moderately windy, sunny, not rainy.
    4. After the formation of the bush has been completed, the sections are sprayed with fungicides. Suitable Abiga-peak, Bordeaux liquid, Fundazol, Albit, etc.

      Learn more