Trellis vegetable gardening
The Best Vegetables for a Trellis for Vertical Gardening
There are so many reasons to grow vegetables vertically. Maybe you want to grow more food in less space or reduce the occurrence of soil-borne diseases. Or, maybe you want to add an ornamental element to your food garden, deck, or patio with a tunnel, A-frame trellis or obelisk. Once you’ve picked your trellis, the fun part begins – selecting what to grow. So, what are the best vegetables for a trellis?
Why trellis your vegetables?As noted above, there are a lot of benefits to growing vegetables vertically, but for me, these are the four most important reasons to use a trellis:
- Save space and grow MORE food – It’s true! You can expect a larger harvest when you grow vining types of vegetables up a trellis. For example, according to Cornell University, pole beans yield two to three times the harvest of bush beans when grown in the same amount of space.
- Reduce disease and insect damage – Trellising vegetables like indeterminate tomatoes, cucumbers, and vining squash can reduce insect damage and the spread of diseases. How? By improving air circulation around the plants and also keeping the foliage off the ground where soil-borne diseases can quickly spread.
- Easy harvesting – The older I get, the more I appreciate trellised crops – no need to bend over to harvest my beans and cucumbers! Plus, it’s far easier to spot the pea pods, snap beans, and cucumber fruits when the plants are growing vertically.
- Clean, straight fruits – When growing edible gourds, squash like Tromboncino, and cucumbers on a trellis, the fruits grow straight and are not spattered with dirt.
There are a LOT of different types of trellises that can be used to grow vegetables vertically. You can buy trellises at garden centres or online, or you can DIY you own with bamboo posts, garden netting, garden twine, stakes, and other supplies.
- Bamboo teepees – A bamboo teepee is a classic, easy-to-build trellis ideal for crops like pole beans, peas, and even cucumbers. I use five eight-foot tall bamboo posts (or straight saplings), spacing them evenly around a four-foot diameter section of the garden. Push the posts ten to twelve-inches into the earth and secure the tops of the posts together with heavy-duty twine.
- A-frame trellises – A-frame trellises can be bought or built and have two flat sides that are joined together at the top to form an A-shape. In the past, I’ve built the panels from lumber with hinges at the top and each side covered in netting, chicken wire, or larger wire mesh panels. A-frame trellises are typically quite strong, depending on the materials, and can be used for beans, peas, gourds, melons, squash, and cucumbers.
- Arbors, arches, and tunnels – I love my bean tunnels! (check them out HERE). Mine are made from four by eight-foot concrete reinforced mesh panels. You could also use hog wire panels, which I found hard to source locally. The bottom of the panels are secured to my raised beds with wooden slats and at the top with zip ties. I grow a wide variety of vining vegetables over my tunnels, as well as plenty of climbing flowers too, like nasturtiums and morning glories. You can also add beautiful garden arches and arbors between raised beds or at the entrance to a vegetable garden to support vertical crops.
- Obelisks, towers, and pyramids – Obelisks, bean towers, and pyramids are extremely ornamental trellises often made from metal or wood and perfect for adding style to your veggie garden. Of course, you can DIY a temporary one from bamboo and twine or, if you’re handy, build a permanent wooden structure.
- Wire mesh trellises – Many types of trellises can be made with wire mesh panels. Some are called cucumber trellises, but you can also use wire mesh panels to build upright supports too. Along the back of my food garden I’ve attached five-foot tall wooden stakes to the back of the raised beds to support four by eight panels of concrete reinforced mesh panels. The panels are zip tied to the wooden stakes. These simple-to-build trellises hold heavy crops like my snake gourds which yield five to six-foot long fruits. I also use them to grow cucumbers, pole beans, runner beans, and peas.
- Posts and netting or twine – One of the most basic types of trellises you can build is made from sturdy posts and netting or twine. Insert posts at either end of the bed and hang pea and bean netting or mesh netting between the supports. Depending on the length of your beds, you may need another post or two in the middle for added strength. I’ve used these trellises for peas and pole beans. If a stronger trellis is needed for heavier crops, you can use wire panels instead of pea and bean netting between the posts.
Growing vegetables on a trellis:
Before you head to the garden centre or order a trellis online, consider what are the best types of vegetables for a trellis and how they climb. Some crops, like pole beans are vigorous climbers, while others, like indeterminate tomatoes need to be secured to their support as they grow. Crop type should play a role in what type of trellis you choose to buy.
Plants can climb in different ways – via tendrils, twining, or scrambling up their supports. Pole beans, which twine around posts are a natural match for a bamboo teepee. Cucumbers, which use tendrils to climb, grow well up wire mesh trellises or those made with sturdy wooden posts and twine. No matter what type of trellis you choose to use, erect it before you plant seeds or seedlings. Waiting to put up the trellis once the seedlings are growing can result in damage to the plants, reducing or delaying the harvest. Are you ready to learn the best vegetables for a trellis? Read on!
I use wire mesh tunnels to grow pole beans vertically in my vegetable garden.The best vegetables for a trellis:
Pole Beans:Pole beans are one of the best vegetables for a trellis. Not only are they easy to grow, but they’re enthusiastic climbers and quickly cover a trellis, teepee, netting, or other support with no extra help. Pole beans also have a far longer harvest window than bush beans and many bean lovers would argue they have a better flavor. They do take longer than bush beans to go from seed to harvest, but once the vines begin to produce, harvesting is easy on the back – no stooping or bending!
Favorite varieties:
Green – Emerite, Fortex, Kentucky Wonder
Yellow – Gold Marie, French Gold
Purple – Purple Peacock, Purple Podded Pole
Peas:Peas are one of the first crops we direct seed in mid-spring, once the soil is workable. There are many types and varieties of peas to grow and those that climb taller than three-feet should be supported with some type of trellis. You can use an expandable wire pea trellis or even simple stakes hung with netting. Just remember that mature pea vines are very heavy and whatever type of trellis you use will need to be very strong. Pick peas every day or two once the pods are a harvestable size. For a fall crop of peas, sow seeds in early summer and provide ample moisture to encourage healthy growth.
Favorite varieties:
Snap peas – Super Sugar Snap, Sugar Snap, Sugar Magnolia
Snow peas – Golden Sweet, Mammoth Melting Sugar
Shell peas – Alderman Tall Telephone, Laxton’s Progress
Peas can be growing on many different types of trellises, just be sure to chose one that is strong enough to hold the heavy mass of vines and peas.Cucumbers:When growing cucumbers on a trellis, choose vining, not bush varieties. When I first starting growing cucumbers I grew them on the ground, letting the vigorous vines sprawl in every direction. Today, I only grow them on trellises (bush varieties are grown on tomato cages) as I’ve found it to be a serious space saver, but my vertically-grown plants are also less affected by diseases like powdery mildew. I also love growing cucumber relatives like cucamelons and burr gherkins on our sturdy trellises. They offer unique fruits that taste fantastic!
Favorite varieties:
Slicers – Suyo Long, Diva, Tastygreen
Small-fruited – Picolino, Socrates, Homemade Pickles
Unusual – Lemon, Crystal Apple, Dragon’s Egg
Summer Squash:Summer squash vines can be considered garden thugs, taking up valuable growing space and choking out neighbors. While many types of summer squash have bush or semi-vining plants which can be hard to trellis, there are a few varieties that produce longer plants which can be grown vertically. Like tomatoes, they’re not natural climbers, so I find the easiest way to secure squash vines to the trellis is to weave the branches – carefully – through the wire or nylon mesh. You can also use heavy-duty twine to loosely tie the stems to the trellis.
Favorite varieties:
Climbing squash – Costata Romanesca, Tromboncino
Add some whimsy to your vegetable garden with a squash-covered garden arch. Indeterminate Tomatoes:Indeterminate tomatoes, also called vining tomatoes are not natural climbers and need to be secured to a trellis as they grow. I use twine or tomato clips to hold the branches in place. You may wonder why you should bother to trellis them if they don’t climb on their own, but trellising indeterminate tomatoes is essential in reducing the occurrence or impact of diseases like early blight. It also allows more even light on the plant which can boost yield.
Favorite varieties:
Large fruited – Brandywine, Big Rainbow, Pineapple, Cherokee Purple, Lillian’s Yellow
Medium fruited – Jaune Flamme, Defiant, Garden Peach
Small fruited – Sungold, Jasper, Black Cherry, Valentine
Melons:Save serious space in your garden or greenhouse beds by growing melons on a heavy-duty trellis. Encourage them to climb by weaving the vines through the trellis, like a wire A-frame trellis, as they grow. Medium and large-fruited melons need to be supported in a sling as the fruits grow and mature. A sling is easy to make from lengths of pantyhose. Secure the ‘pantyhose hammock’ to your trellis so that the weight of the fruit is supported by the sling.
Favorite varieties:
Melons – Torpedo, Hannah’s Choice, Montreal Melon, Queen Anne’s
Unique melons – I love muskmelons, like Armenian cucumbers, that are often classified in seed catalogs as cucumbers.
Malabar spinach is another great veggie for growing on a trellis. Learn more about this heat-tolerant green in this video:
For further reading on the best vegetables for a trellis, check out THIS awesome book on vertical vegetable gardening. Do you have a favorite type of trellis? Tell us about it in the comments.
Learn more about growing vertical vegetables in the following articles:
- Build your own pole bean tunnels
- Growing cucumbers vertically
- Vertical veggie garden projects
- Growing cucamelons in a garden
Vertical Gardening: 10 Vegetables that Love to Climb
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Vertical vegetable gardening saves space, helps avoid pests and disease, makes harvesting easier, and adds beauty to your garden. But, which vegetables are best grown vertically?
In this article, I share 10 vegetables that love to climb (in no particular order… a gardener can’t play favorites).
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Vertical Gardening: 10 Vegetables that Love to Climb
#1 – Peas
Peas tolerate cooler weather and are often the first vegetable planted in the garden each spring. The tendrils on peas seek out the trellis and happily climb, often needing no help climbing as high as you will let them.
Sugar snap peasRead this article to learn more about how to grow peas.
Vertical Gardening Vegetable #2 – Tomatoes
Growing tomatoes vertically keeps the plant upright, and prevents the stems from breaking from heavy fruit or wind. Trellising tomatoes also keeps the leaves off the ground which helps reduce diseases. Fruit is easier to harvest when it is off the ground as well.
Tomatoes grown on a trellis need attention from time to time. Young branches easily bend and can be wound through the trellis. As the stems thicken and age, they are more likely to break. It’s best to spend a little time every few days helping your tomato plant climb up the trellis. These plant clips from Amazon are helpful when clipping them to the trellis.
Celebrity tomatoesRead this article to learn more about how to grow tomatoes.
#3 – Loofah
Loofah gourds grow on a vigorous vine (over 10 feet long). Be sure to give them plenty of room to grow and a trellis for support. Growing loofah vertically keeps fruit up off the ground and encourages the fruit to grow long and straight. Loofah climbs a trellis easily on its own.
LuffaRead this article to learn more about how to grow loofah.
Vertical Gardening Vegetable #4 – Melons
Vines from melons can easily sprawl all over the garden, taking up valuable space. Growing these fruits up a trellis helps you grow more in less space. Vining melons grown on the ground are also more susceptible to pests and soil-borne diseases. Larger melons such as watermelons require a sturdy trellis and some sort of hammock or melon holder.
CantaloupeRead this article to learn how to grow cantaloupe.
Read this article to learn how to grow watermelon.
#5 – Tomatillos
Large and sprawling tomatillo branches are somewhat brittle. Trellising tomatillos makes harvesting easier and broken branches less of a problem. The branches do not have tendrils, and I’ve had success clipping the branches onto the trellis with these plant clips from Amazon.
TomatillosRead this article to learn more about how to grow tomatillos.
Vertical Gardening Vegetable #6 – Yardlong beans
Also called asparagus beans, the long vines climb easily up a trellis that reaches 6 feet or more. Growing yardlong or asparagus beans on a trellis keeps pests (like potato bugs) from enjoying the fruits of your labor. Growing this vegetable vertically also makes harvesting easier because the beans hang down and are easier to spot among the leaves.
Kentucky Wonder pole beansOther beans that love to climb are pole beans and lima beans. Read this article to learn more about how to grow beans.
#7 – Malabar spinach
A summer spinach alternative for warm climate areas, Malabar spinach vines can reach 10 to 20 feet or longer. The vines grow best on a sturdy trellis. Once it reaches the trellis, Malabar spinach has no problem growing up the vine without guidance or additional support.
Malabar spinachRead this article to learn more about how to grow Malabar spinach.
Vertical Gardening Vegetable #8 – Cucumbers
Cucumbers grown vertically are healthier, straighter, and easier to harvest. Guide cucumber vines through the trellis when it begins to grow, and its tendrils will reach out and climb. Trellising the plants also gives other crops room to grow as cucumber vines can quickly take over a raised bed.
Armenian cucumbersRead this article to learn more about how to grow cucumbers.
#9 – Cucamelons
This tasty vegetable has an abundance of fine-leaved vines and does best grown vertically. Once the delicate vines reach the trellis, the tendrils climb it easily. The miniature watermelon fruit are easy to harvest when cucamelons are grown on a trellis.
CucamelonsRead this post to learn how to grow cucamelons.
Vertical Gardening Vegetable #10 – Winter squash
Vining winter squash can sprawl 10 to 20 feet or more. Growing the vegetable vertically saves space, prevents disease, and keeps the bugs from hiding under the large leaves. Spend time every day or two wrapping the vines through the trellis, and the tendrils will latch on and support the growing vine. Most winter squash fruit can be supported by the vine. However, larger fruit will benefit from some sort of hammock or melon holder.
Mini Jack pumpkinsThis post tells more about how to grow winter squash.
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Green hedge - perennial hedges in the country
Green hedge along the fence or the border of the site is an excellent solution for those who want to make the garden fence a harmonious part of the landscape design. In addition, the hedge has several other quite practical tasks. It will hide unsightly buildings near your site from view, protect it from pollution and noise, create a special microclimate and, finally, will be an excellent background for many ornamental plants.
Hedges may be shaped or free-growing, evergreen or deciduous, single or mixed, single or multi-row, thorny or soft. The choice of one or another type of fence depends on the tasks that you set for yourself.
Evergreen hedges look rather austere and are an excellent background for "solo plants" - flower or decorative foliage. In addition, the evergreen fence serves as a good sound insulator and will reliably protect your garden from prying eyes even in winter. The disadvantages of such a fence include a relatively limited range of plants suitable for it that can grow in the climate of central Russia (western thuja, spruce, common juniper, mountain dwarf pine), as well as the lack of seasonal dynamics (such a fence always looks the same).
To be fair, deciduous hedge can also be opaque, even in winter, if made up of thorny shrubs or well-formed densely branched species. To enhance the effect of opacity, a deciduous hedge can be decorated with coniferous plants, for example, Cossack juniper or inserts from vines, which can create dense or openwork walls in a short time without taking up much space. The list of plants for a deciduous hedge is quite large: acacia, chokeberry, barberry, euonymus, hawthorn, elderberry, cherry, elm, deren, honeysuckle, willow, viburnum, vesicle, lilac, currant, snowberry, spirea, chaenomeles, mock orange, etc.
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7 Forman hedges are good in areas resolved in a formal style, with many lawns, flower beds, roads and other garden vents. They introduce clear lines into the structure of landscape design, create a perspective, give the site an optical completeness, and allow you to change the spatial perception of the landscape. With age, such hedges become impassable and invisible, successfully performing a protective function. Such hedges are created from densely leafy trees and shrubs (both deciduous and coniferous), which lend themselves well to shearing, have a dense crown and relatively slow growth. They are compact in width and therefore ideal for small gardens. The choice of plants for them is quite large: these are different types of barberry, hawthorn, vesicle, brilliant cotoneaster, alpine currant, tree-like caragana (yellow acacia), European spindle tree, common privet, western thuja and others. The alternation of two or three different species or decorative forms with a contrasting color of foliage can give a special color to the hedge.
When choosing the shape of the haircut (rectangular, triangular, trapezoid, reverse trapezoid, ovoid or curly), take into account the requirements of plants for light. A rectangular haircut is only suitable for shade-tolerant breeds (for example, cotoneaster, hornbeam, elm), light-loving ones will be unsightly exposed from below. Trapezoidal (with a slope of the sides of at least 10 degrees) and triangular (with a slope at an angle of 60-80 degrees) are suitable for any shrubs, since there is enough light penetrating into the lower part of the hedge. Round and curly haircuts are used less often, as they require more space and cutting skills. If the area of the garden is large enough, then the formation of a hedge will take a lot of effort. Maybe it is for this reason that clipped hedges are not so popular in our country.
Free-growing hedges look more natural in a nature style garden. They require significant space in the garden, because their width can be from 50 cm to 3 m. Most often, such hedges are created from species that do not respond well to shearing, with natural compact crowns. They can include flowering and beautiful-fruited shrubs that can transform the monotonous look of the "green wall" (rose hips, various types of spirea, Hungarian lilac, mock orange). This type of hedge is the most suitable for a person who does not want to burden himself with a tedious cutting of plants. For such a hedge in central Russia, you can use different types of hawthorn, common elderberry, Maak and Tatar honeysuckle, viburnum pride (common often suffers from leaf beetles), as well as different types of vesicle and barberry, mountain ash and some other plants. If the fence is given a protective function, then it is made 2- or multi-row.
In terms of height, hedges are divided into high, or living walls (over 2 meters), medium - actually hedges (1 - 2 meters) and low or curb (from 0.5 to 1 meter). Tall and medium hedges are usually planted along the fence, while undersized hedges serve to visually separate the various functional areas on the site (the front part, the garden, the playground, the flower garden, etc.).
Border hedges are decorative and usually consist of several shrubs or semi-shrubs not exceeding the height of the border plants. For such hedges, not only shrubs are used - dwarf honeysuckle, dwarf mock oranges, Thunberg barberries, meadowsweet and Van Gutt, Japanese spirea, Japanese quince, holly mahonia, cinquefoil shrub, miniature roses, dwarf conifers, hyssop shrub, but also herbaceous perennials - for example, bush or heather asters, hostas.
Actually hedges have a protective, sanitary-hygienic, architectural and artistic value. Can be molded or free growing. Shade-tolerant breeds with relatively slow growth, good branching and small leaves densely located on the shoots are the best for molded ones. For freely growing plants, plants are selected that differ in decorative features - flowering, beautifully fruiting, decorative and deciduous, with a bright color of the bark. In addition to shrubs - mock orange, common barberry, privet, felt cherry, Tatar honeysuckle, brilliant cotoneaster, lilac, wild rose, golden currant, white snowberry, spirea and common juniper, herbaceous perennials can be used - late chamomile, New England asters, as well as cereals - miscanthus , spartina.
Living walls protect from dust, wind, noise, sight. They are created from shade-tolerant species that tolerate shearing well, preferably slow-growing ones - hornbeam, hazel, small-leaved linden, small-leaved elm, pear, apple tree. You can also use prickly, blood-red and plum-leaved hawthorns, Ussuri pear, blood-red turf, basket willow, brittle and holly, oval-leaved shadberry, Ginnala and Tatar maples, Amur lilac, prickly plum, glaucous, Canadian and ordinary, thuja western . For very high walls, types and decorative forms with a narrow-conical, pyramidal, oval or other compact crown shape are used - pyramidal poplar, fastigial forms of English oak and mountain ash, some maples, hawthorn.
According to the planting method, hedges can be:
Single-row - from densely planted densely branched shrubs. They are usually planned along fences, paths or to delimit the functional areas of the site.
Double-row - most fully meeting the architectural, artistic and security requirements. They are made up of one or different plant species, usually in a two-level planting.
Tri-row - most commonly used on roads. The most time-consuming and expensive, requiring large spaces. Plants have tiers: shorter ones are planted in the foreground, and taller ones (for example, sod, hazel, linden) are planted on the second and third. It is promising to use hairy lilacs in the middle row, creating a barrier to dust and gases.
In multi-tiered hedges, a combination of contrasting plants looks spectacular (light green and dark purple foliage, yellow-leaved species against the background of dark conifers, etc.). And here it is quite appropriate to combine deciduous and coniferous species. Naturally look in such hedges and trees planted in a row as a second or third tier.
According to the complexity of the hedge arrangement, there are:
Single-species - consisting of one type of plant planted in 1, 2, 3 rows.
Combined - from 2-3 or more species, freely growing in a multi-tier planting. The protective properties and decorative effect of the hedge are significantly enhanced in such hedges - when combining non-thorny forms with prickly ones, large-leaved with small-leaved ones, with light and dark foliage, with different leaf shapes, shaped and unshaped (for example, sheared privet bushes and uncut mock oranges; sheared golden currant and uncut lilac).
The most complex and beautiful - trellis hedges (cordons, palmettes, trellises) which are single-row plantings with shoots formed in the same plane. They can be crafted from willows, hawthorns, and even fruit-bearing apple or pear trees 1m tall or taller. To create a trellis, a support in the form of a lattice is installed, plants are planted quite densely (in 15-20 cm) along it. A year later, they undergo a shaping haircut in the form of a wall. Branches can be spliced to create a completely opaque hedge. In this case, weaves are formed from the shoots in the form of rhombuses and tied up at the points of contact, having previously cut off the bark. The branches grow together and after a few years a magnificent hedge of green rhombuses is obtained, no longer in need of support. Sometimes 9 are used to decorate terraces, patios, open areas.0007 mobile trellis hedges (1.5-1.9 m high), which are more convenient to move by mounting on rollers. They are usually created from hornbeam, thuja, vines - clematis, girlish grapes, climbing roses, from apple trees, raspberries, blackberries or other fruit and berry crops.
A shady alley will give a special charm to a large, spacious garden. The alley can be single-row, double-row or multi-row, depending on the tasks of garden architecture, the size of the garden, the width of the roads. It is usually created from large-sized planting material (birch, oak, linden, chestnut, spruce, pine, larch, mountain ash).
The most difficult type of alleys are berso (bindage, bypass roads) - alleys covered with intertwining trees. Birches, hornbeams are suitable for their creation, but lindens are best of all. Trees planted on both sides of the path, as they grow, go around special wire arched frames, forming a vaulted alley. The entrances and exits of the berso are often decorated with arches, and gazebos are placed at the intersections.
(Based on the book by L.U. Uleyskaya "Hedges")
What is the trellis mesh for?
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Using trellis netting for cucumbers on the site.
To get a great harvest, you have to work hard. Growing vegetables is a troublesome process that requires a lot of effort and certain knowledge. It is important not only to use the correct technology for growing vegetable crops, but also to create the necessary conditions for the plants: provide the crop with the right amount of water and minerals, take care of optimal illumination and air humidity.
When growing climbing plants in greenhouses or outdoors, trellis netting is often used. She has proven herself among gardeners and gardeners. The mesh is also used by enterprises that grow various fruits and vegetables, as it has many advantages that make it easier to work, save space, and achieve higher yields.
Vegetable trellis net is also called cucumber net (cucumber trellis net) because it is widely used to provide vertical support for growing cucumbers and other climbing plants and vegetables. Plants cling to the plastic mesh and grow upwards, which saves acreage, facilitates care and harvesting.
Vertical growing technique is preferred for many plants. It is used for annual vegetable crops, climbing ornamental plants, flowers. Previously, improvised materials were used as supports: posts, wire, ties, laces. They performed their tasks, but in this case there was no need to talk about the convenience of their use, the beauty of the summer cottage.
Modern supports for plants have greatly simplified the technique of vertical cultivation, accelerated the process of fixing crops, and made the structures neat and attractive.
Plastic trellis net - possibilities
The use of vertical cultivation technique allows solving several problems in the cultivation of cucumbers, beans, green peas, tomatoes, zucchini.
- Space saving. The need for sown land is halved, while more comfortable conditions are created for the plants themselves, growth and fruiting are improved.
- Increasing yield. Plants are evenly illuminated by the sun, there are no "dark corners" in which mold develops due to high humidity, fruit rot begins. The crops are less prone to disease, and the support of the stems protects them from damage. This is especially true for tomatoes, zucchini.
- Convenient service. Caring for green "pets" becomes easier and more convenient. The shoots are completely visible, they are easy to spray, water, weed. During the harvest, support under climbing plants will allow you to see each fruit.
- Plot decoration. The territory with vertical green screens and neat racks on which vegetable shoots are fixed looks well-groomed and attractive. Using ready-made solutions from the Protekt company, you will take care of your harvest and the aesthetics of the territory. Our catalog contains a garden net for climbing plants used as a support, posts for its installation, plastic clamps for mounting on posts. If the plants don't have prehensile shoots, you can buy cheap garden clips and attach the stems to the netting.
All garden supports for climbing plants offer this opportunity. But the grid for annual and perennial crops is different. Let's dwell on its features.
Plastic trellis features
The use of climbing plant supports is essential in agriculture. When growing fruit crops, support means provide more comfortable conditions for the development of shoots. Instead of trailing along the ground, they grow vertically. This saves acreage, facilitates care, and improves fruit ripening. In addition, crops are less susceptible to pests, the fruits do not rot from contact with the ground.
For climbing plants that can be a real eye-catcher in any garden, vertical support is vital. Supports for climbing plants: clematis, climbing roses allow the stems to grow in a given direction, to receive the necessary amount of sunlight. With the help of a garden lattice for climbing plants and a chosen crop, you can create decorative screen compositions that will neatly hide unaesthetic buildings, become a hedge. So are luxurious gazebos, arched structures for relaxing in the garden, zoning the site.
The multiple possibilities that support aids provide should not be limited by the high cost of such aids. Therefore, we recommend buying a plastic trellis net for climbing plants. It is affordable, exceptionally light and easy to use.
Its advantages are obvious:
- Ease of use - the material is a ready-made frame that can be used immediately. When planting cucumbers, it should be placed on the bed folded, installed along the edges of the support. As the lashes grow, you will be able to raise the net to the desired height. For growing vines, a support net is fixed on a wall, fence, gazebo. Seedlings are located at the base. They quickly weave the design.
- Reliability - Depending on the type of crop, you can select the required mesh thickness. Choose the thinnest for green peas, beans, bell peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes. And the most durable for grapes, morning glory, climbing roses, decorative loach, ivy.