Tile backsplash kitchen installation
How to Tile a Backsplash
Install a mosaic tile backsplash for a whole new look in just one weekend.
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Time
Multiple Days
Complexity
Intermediate
Cost
$101–250
Introduction
Tiling a backsplash above the counter is one of the easiest ways to upgrade an old, tired kitchen on a tight budget. You can choose from the vast array of handsome ceramic tiles available, including the easy-to-install one we show here—mosaic tiles.Tools Required
- 4-in-1 screwdriver
- Bucket
- Caulk gun
- Drill/driver - cordless
- Grout float
- Level
- Non-contact voltage tester
- Notched trowel
- Rubber mallet
- Self-centering drill bit
- Tape measure
- Utility knife
Materials Required
- Caulk
- Grout
- Grout sealer
- Mastic
- Outlet extenders
- Stone tile sealer
- Tile
- Tile spacers
Planning, Materials and Tools
Nothing packs more style per square inch than mosaic tile for a kitchen backsplash. So if your kitchen’s got the blahs, this is an easy way to give it a quick infusion of pizzazz. We’ll show you how to tile a backsplash in a weekend! The small tiles are mounted on 12 x 12-in. sheets, so installation of a tiled backsplash is fast. You can install the tile on Saturday and then grout it on Sunday.
Family Handyman
Shopping for Mosaic Tile
Mosaic tiling sheets make it easy to achieve a great backsplash. Layout is a cinch—you can simply cut the mesh backing on the sheets to fit the tile along counters and cabinets. In fact, the hardest part of this or any other tiling backsplash project may be choosing the look—the tiles come in a variety of shapes and materials, and many sheets have glass or metallic tiles built in for accents.
To add to your options, strips of 4 x 12-in. tiles are available for borders. So you can match the existing look of your kitchen—or try something new!
Family Handyman
Project step-by-step (8)
Clean the Wall
Before installing the tile, clean up any grease splatters on the wall (mastic won’t adhere to grease).
- Wipe the stains with a sponge dipped in a mixture of water and mild dishwashing liquid (like Dawn).
- If you have a lot of stains or they won’t come off, wipe on a paint deglosser with a lint-free cloth or abrasive pad so the mastic will adhere.
- Mask off the countertops and any upper cabinets that will have tile installed along the side.
- Leave a 1/4-in. gap between the wall and the tape for the tile.
- Cover the countertops with newspaper or a drop cloth.
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Do It Right, Do It Yourself!
Originally Published: November 15, 2018
Similar Projects
How to Install Backsplash the Easy Way
We show you the right materials and techniques to use to put up a tile backsplash in one afternoon.
By Tom Silva
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Project details
Skill
1 out of 5 Easy
Cost
$100
Estimated Time
2-3 hours
The easiest way to install a backsplash is to use tiling, two-sided adhesive mat, and pre-mixed grout. Using the adhesive mat helps you quickly and accurately put up your tiling. With tile, there are a range options from square tiles to subway tiles, in many different colors, so you can also create the exact look and feel you want in your kitchen. We recommend square tiling for beginners because it’ll be the easiest to cut and align together.
In the video, and the steps below, we walk you through how to decide how big your backsplash should be, selecting your tile, and how to install it from start to finish.
Backsplash Installation in 15 Steps:- Clean the wall thoroughly with the cleaner to remove any grease or other debris.
- Secure the drop cloth on the counter using the painter's tape, covering the entire work area.
- Mark the two sides of the wall using the painter's tape where the backsplash should start and stop.
- Measure the space you plan on tiling. Transfer the measurements to the tile adhesive mat and cut to size using scissors.
- Peel one half of the back off of the adhesive mat, and align the unexposed section to a straight surface like the existing countertop. Ensure the side with the thicker gap between glue dots is aligned to overlap the next sheet.
- Once the sheet is in the correct position, stick it to the wall. Then peel the bottom half and stick that to the wall.
- Repeat this process until the desired area is covered. Use the rubber float to push the adhesive mat to the wall for a permanent bond.
- Hold the tile up to the wall to determine where it will need to be cut to size.
- Use the utility knife to cut the mesh behind the tile.
- Peel the plastic coating off of the adhesive mat, and carefully place each tile section onto the adhesive.
- Once the tile is in the correct position, push it in place with a rubber float.
- Repeat this process until the wall is covered with the tile.
- Fill the gaps between the tile with the premixed grout and the rubber float. Apply it diagonally until all of the spaces between the tile have been filled with grout.
- Fill the bucket with water and using a clean sponge, wipe the excess grout off the tile, again diagonally. Be careful to only wipe the grout off the face of the tile, not the grout in between the tiles.
- After 24 hours, a haze may appear on the tile. To remove it, wipe the tile with a rag.
Shop Tile at Home Depot
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Tools: 90,000 laying of tiles in the kitchen with your own hands Tables Table:
Features of a kitchen apron of tiles
Requirements for surface
What tiles are suitable for a kitchen on a apron
mosaic
Ceramic tile
Bucker
Cerammary border solutions
apron size?
Where is the best place to start?
Laying instructions
Material and tools for laying the backsplash
Preparing the wall surface
Marking
Electrical wiring before laying the apron
How to make holes for sockets
Preparation of adhesive solution
Methods of cutting tiles
Technology for laying tiles
Features of a kitchen apron of tiles
Along with skinals, a kitchen apron made of ceramic tiles is a popular method steam, spatter and grease deposits. However, unlike skinals, this solution is more durable and environmentally friendly. In order for a ceramic apron to serve for many years and invariably please the eye, some rules must be followed when designing and laying it. nine0025
Surface requirements
The final result is affected by the quality of each stage of work. It all starts with surface preparation. From the wall, you need to carefully remove the old decorative coating and knock down those areas of plaster that seem fragile. It is also necessary to level all protrusions (for example, the remnants of old glue) and putty the existing recesses. The result should be a flat surface that needs to be degreased and primed. The closer the result is to the ideal, the easier it will be to finish. nine0025
Which tile is suitable for a backsplash kitchen
When choosing a tile, you should focus not only on its appearance. It is important to remember that the apron is constantly exposed to intense pollution. Therefore, a ceramic tile that is not too difficult to care for is a good option - samples with a smooth glazed surface are best suited. Size also matters, because dirt is the hardest to remove from the seams. So the larger the format, the better. The color should be in harmony with the interior of the kitchen, if the replacement of the apron is not the beginning of a global renovation. nine0025
Mosaic
Small tiles (usually 10x10 or 20x20 mm) glued onto a mesh base. Sold in sheets or rolls. Attached to the adhesive mixture, like a regular tile. After the glue dries, grouting is required. This solution may look very interesting, but it has a significant drawback - a huge number of seams. Caring for such an apron will be very laborious, even if you use a hydrophobic grout.
Ceramic tiles
A classic as it is, and for good reason. From an ergonomic point of view, this is the most advantageous option. It has been present in most kitchens since time immemorial. And today you can choose a larger format than usual, and caring for an apron will become even easier. The main thing is not to be tempted by the originality of tiles with a deep complex relief. nine0025
Wild boar
Quite an acceptable option: it looks original, but if it has a glazed surface, it will not cause any special difficulties in care. However, the hog has a smaller format than a traditional tile, which means that there will be a lot of seams. Although not as much as when using a mosaic.
Clinker
Would look great in a loft style kitchen. However, clinker imitates brick and has a porous and rough surface. It is well suited for outdoor decoration, but for an apron in the kitchen - not so much. Care will be too laborious. Another drawback is the limited color gamut. nine0025
Porcelain stoneware
Why not? Solidity and low coefficient of moisture absorption will not allow this material to absorb pollution. In addition, porcelain stoneware is available in large formats, which will reduce the number of seams to a minimum. Rectification allows you to stack it with gaps of only 0.5-1 millimeter. Well, the choice of design is now very wide.
Decorative solutions
Those times when you bought the tiles that were available, and the wallpaper, furniture and everything else was selected in unison with it, are long gone. Now you can develop a kitchen design without limiting your imagination, and you will definitely find a suitable tile! Adherents of the traditional approach will choose a monochrome apron design: both the main surface and the borders are made of one-color ceramics. nine0025
Modern tiles look completely different than they did when you were a child, in your grandmother's kitchen! Another good option is porcelain stoneware with imitation of natural stone. We choose a larger format, perform seamless laying and install suitable stone countertops. The working area will look like a very stylish monolith. However, you can try to play on contrasts, alternating, for example, light and dark tiles in a checkerboard pattern, or creating more complex patterns.
How to determine the size of the apron? nine0027
The functional purpose of an apron in the kitchen is to protect the wall in the working area from soot, splashes and other contaminants. To do this, at least it should start 2-3 centimeters below the surface of the cutting tables, and end at the height of the hood. For electric stoves, the recommended installation height of the hood is at least 65 centimeters, for gas stoves - 75. If finances allow, you can start laying the apron from the floor, and bring it to the ceiling. So you can more clearly highlight the kitchen area in the studio apartment. In length, it should cover all work surfaces, as well as the sink and stove. nine0025
Where is the best place to start?
From the beginning, that is, from the calculation of the amount of materials. The main thing is to buy tiles with a small margin. If it’s not enough, you can, of course, buy more, but the batch in the store will be different, and the shade will be different. And the repair itself is a rather laborious process. Why interrupt him in the middle and break into the store? For an accurate calculation, you need to decide on the installation method. If you are going to lay tiles for the first time, it is better to choose the traditional way, when the tiles in each next row are strictly above the tiles of the previous row. To get the number of tiles, you need to divide the area of \u200b\u200bthe apron by the area of \u200b\u200bone tile - it's logical, but that's not all. nine0005
Now you need to decide how much stock you need. With the traditional method or laying with an offset (like a brick), 10% should be enough. This will cover material costs for trimming, factory defects and damage to tiles during installation. If we lay the tiles diagonally, then the required margin will be already 10-15%, and in cases where you need to customize the pattern - all 20%. All roundings are done up!
Installation instructions
The process itself is not as complicated as it seems. So that the result does not disappoint, the main thing is not to rush and do everything as carefully as possible. For the first experience, it is better to choose the traditional layout scheme. nine0005
Apron installation material and tools
Material list:
-
tile adhesive reinforced;
-
acrylic strengthening primer;
-
cross or tile leveling system;
-
gypsum plaster;
-
building gypsum.
Tool list:
-
perforator for removing the old coating; nine0025
-
screwdriver for installing sockets;
-
mixer attachment for drill;
-
container for mixing glue;
-
spatulas: narrow, notched and rubber;
-
normal level;
-
laser level;
-
pencil.
Preparing the wall surface
This step is the foundation. The more thoroughly the surface is prepared, the easier the laying will be and the more perfect the final result! nine0005
Removing the old coating
It all depends on what was on the wall before. To remove wallpaper, you can use a special tool or prepare a solution of washing powder in warm water. Next, just wet the wallpaper with a rag or sponge, let it soak a little and carefully remove it with a spatula. To remove the paint, it is most convenient to use the same spatula and a building hair dryer: under a stream of hot air, it will begin to move away from the wall itself, it is enough to help it a little. nine0005
Removing the old coating is a more complicated procedure. Perhaps part of it has almost fallen off, but there are always tiles that, despite their advanced age, sit firmly. And there will be traces of old glue or mortar on the wall, and all this must be removed. That's what you need a hammer drill for. They need to work carefully, trying not to damage the plaster. However, if in some place it is already barely holding on, this part should be removed.
Wall plaster for backsplash
After we have removed everything superfluous from the wall, it needs to be dusted with a damp cloth and primed. We apply the primer according to the instructions: in one or two layers. Then, if required, you need to plaster the wall, especially in those places where we knocked down the plaster by accident or intentionally. You can also correct the flaws of past plasterers. After the mixture has dried, prime the wall again. Everything, the base is ready!
Marking
Another important step (they are all like that). Using the level, we outline the upper and lower boundaries. Left and right, as well as additional auxiliary vertical lines, we draw along a plumb line. On the lower border, we install a barrier made of a bar or an aluminum profile. It will support the tile until the adhesive sets and prevent it from sliding off. After marking is completed, we evaluate it again by eye from a distance. If any lines are in doubt, they need to be rechecked in terms of level and plumb, and, if necessary, corrected. nine0025
Electrical wiring before laying the apron
If wiring is supposed to be under the future apron, it's time to do it. Strobes break through the wall according to a predetermined pattern. For this, a puncher, grinder (angle grinder) or a hammer with a chisel is suitable if the length of the wiring is small. We remove dust with a vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth and prime the strobes themselves and the surface of the wall next to them. Now you can lay the wires. We fill the strobes with a solution of building gypsum and align flush with the wall. nine0025
How to make socket holes
A conventional concrete drill with a Pobedite tip will not suffice here. Most importantly, the holes must be made before laying the tiles on the wall. Firstly, it is more convenient to work this way, and secondly, if the tile still cracks, you can simply take a spare one, and not remove the damaged one from the wall. For drilling tiles, special diamond bits are sold. You need to drill at low speeds and be sure to turn off the impact mode.
Preparing the adhesive solution
This is one of the simplest steps, the main thing is to follow the mixture manufacturer's instructions. Pour the composition into a bucket or basin, fill with water in the required amount and mix with a drill or screwdriver with a mixer attachment.
Ways to cut tiles
Some craftsmen cope with the task with a glass cutter, but this is the lot of the elite. The easiest way to buy a lever manual tile cutter, it is quite inexpensive. However, if you plan on laying according to a non-standard pattern, the kitchen has a complex shape, or you plan to lay tiles somewhere else, you can invest in a model with an electric drive. And on sale you can find special beds that can turn a simple angle grinder into a kind of electric tile cutter. By the way, when cutting and drilling, for marking, you can stick masking tape on the tile and draw lines along it. nine0025
Tile laying technology
Excessive haste is always harmful, but you should not hesitate when laying tiles. Before starting work, look at the glue package for how long it takes to set. That is how much head start you have for leveling, tapping and other manipulations with the laid tiles. Everything should be at hand: there are enough crosses in your pocket, the tiles for laying are laid out nearby.
Lay whole tiles first. After that, you can start working with outlet outlets, and those areas where pruning is needed. The fact is that the marking of tiles for laying in these places must be done at the place of laying, without estimates and calculations. After marking, we use a tile cutter and a cutter. It is better to drill holes on a piece of drywall: the tool will not be damaged, and the tile will not crack. After laying, all seams must be cleaned of excess mixture and removed with a dry cloth of dirt from the front side. nine0025
After the adhesive has dried, you can proceed to grouting. This process deserves a separate article. One thing needs to be mentioned now. If you are laying tiles for the first time, select the grout that matches the color of the tile as closely as possible. Despite the best efforts, crosses or a tile alignment system, discrepancies in the opening of the seams are still possible. And so they will be less noticeable.
Sources:
travelerscoffee.ru/en/beets/kak-sdelat-fartuk-na-kuhne-svoimi-rukami-vybiraem-iz-chego-sdelat-fartuk/
valenteshop.ru/en/kak-sdelat-fartuk-na-kuhne-svoimi-rukami-vybiraem-iz-chego-sdelat/
24segodnya.ru/en/technique/kak-sdelat-kuhonnyi-fartuk-iz-plitki- plastikovyi-fartuk-na-kuhnyu-s/
santorpack. ru/en/school-of-design/tehnologiya-ukladki-kuhonnogo-fartuka-iz-plitki-na-stene-i-po.html
do-it-yourself tiles: a laying master class
The main purpose of an apron in the kitchen is to keep the walls pristine clean and easy to wash them from the inevitable splashes of grease and water. There are several options for making it, but in this article we will focus specifically on a tile kitchen apron, since it is easiest to do it yourself. nine0025
The apron should cover the area of the walls above the work area from the worktop to the wall cabinets (usually at least 60 cm), and go slightly under the worktop. Above the stove, it must be done to the level of the hood.
Plan ahead for the design and dimensions of the apron
If you have not bought a kitchen set yet, make the calculation directly from the marks on the wall. Knowing the dimensions of the selected tile and the area of \u200b\u200bthe apron, it will not be difficult to calculate the required amount by drawing up a drawing. But you need to buy material with a margin of 10-15%, in any case there will be marriage, uneven undercuts and cutouts for sockets. nine0025
Fast navigation under Article
- Features of the apron of tiles
- Preparatory stage
- Application of glue
- Laying tiles
- SELECTIONS 905 905
Dirty apron in the kitchen made of tiles cannot be washed just like that
- The tile itself is quite easy to clean from grease using special products. But since after laying seams of 1.5-2 mm are formed, dirt will constantly get into them, which will be very difficult to get out of there. At the same time, wall tiles cannot be laid without seams, so you are guaranteed problems when washing the apron. Based on this, the main recommendation is to use only smooth glossy tiles without relief for the apron, and try to make the seams small (the minimum thickness of the crosses that are on sale is 1 mm). nine0088
- The next minus is that the tile backsplash is the most time-consuming of all the other options. You need to have experience in laying and think in advance how to close the pipes, where to make sockets.
- The main advantage of this option is low price and durability. But given the cost of work and additional materials for preparation, this is not the most profitable option.
Preparatory step
As you can see in the photo, a 27*40 cm tile was chosen.0005
Two rows of tiles 27*40 cm and one row of decor of the same size between them
The decision on how to position the apron - from the level of the countertop or below, must be made depending on the pattern of the tile so as not to disturb it. In our case, a collection was purchased with a decor that has a horizontal stripe. Therefore, the size of the offset will depend on how this strip divides the space of the apron. For human perception, it is best to divide the space in half, or according to the law of the golden section (take the total height and multiply it by 0. 618). nine0025
We will assume that you have already leveled the walls with plaster or drywall in advance. This is also an important step that cannot be ignored and rely on the fact that the glue will save you from curved walls.
Some people think "I'll put a tile on thick glue, and it will stand up straight for me." You may be able to do this, but any tile adhesive tends to dry out when it hardens. And if the layer size is uneven, when drying, the tile can lead, tear off, tension will be created on its surface. nine0025If the wall is whitewashed, it must be completely removed. It is not necessary to remove ordinary oil paint, it will be enough to make notches on it (up to 100 pieces per square meter). They are easily made by a grinder with a concrete disc or a chisel.
Since the tiles are quite heavy, remove all old plaster that does not adhere well.
When you mark the bottom row, the profile is set on it. It is needed to support the tile - otherwise the glue will not have time to harden, and it will slide off. Use a laser or water level to fix it perfectly level. nine0005
The profile must be clearly leveled
Applying adhesive
- Before starting work, the wall must be treated with a deep penetration primer to increase adhesion.
- Glue is best applied first on the wall, and then in a small layer on the tile itself, and then peel off from it, leaving it only in the factory recesses (for better adhesion).
- Use a notched trowel to spread the adhesive evenly on the wall. The size of the teeth must be selected depending on the format and weight of the tile, in this case an 8 mm comb is used. nine0088
- After applying to the wall, you will have no more than 20 minutes to correct the result - then the adhesive will begin to harden. In total, in a bucket, it can stand for a maximum of a couple of hours.
The adhesive layer must be thin and even. After pressing - no more than 2-3 mm.
Buy 5 kg tile adhesive per square meter.
Laying tiles
- The first tile is laid in the most visible place, and the undercuts are left at the end. nine0085 With the two meter rule, you can control that all tiles are in the same plane relative to the wall. To do this, you first need to install a temporary beacon tile on the opposite side of the kitchen, on which you will watch the deviations of the rest.
- We check vertical deviations with a level, in this case it will be most convenient to use a bubble 60 cm long, well, or a laser one - for those who have one. nine0088
- When you press the tile evenly against the wall and tap it, the thickness of the adhesive should be approximately 2-3 mm.
- When you install the second tile, you will need to remove the temporary beacon and clean it and the wall itself from the adhesive. The remaining elements will be aligned relative to those already installed.
- If you bought a cheap domestic tile for an apron, then with a probability of 99% you will encounter the problem of unevenness of its geometric dimensions by 1-2 mm. Such errors can be compensated for by the width of the seams.
- A profile bolted to the wall will give you a perfect horizontal line, but the top line may be crooked due to size differences. To avoid this, in advance, under the first row, place special plastic wedges under the tiles, which allow you to adjust its level, depending on their immersion. nine0088
- When you lay a tile, control its evenness relative to neighboring elements and the overall horizontal. If necessary, adjust the size due to the width of the seams and wedges at the bottom.
- Laying the second row is done in a similar way, but to control the desired indentation between the tiles, you need to use plastic crosses. You should not take them with a thickness of more than 2 mm on an apron, in this case, 1. 5 mm crosses are used. When they are completely immersed, a seam of the same width will be obtained. If the cross is not fully immersed, then the seam becomes smaller. With the help of them we correct the evenness of horizontal and vertical seams. nine0088
- Use a manual tile cutter or grinder to cut tiles if needed. If neither one nor the other is available, you can do it with any sharp object: a nail, a knife, a drill, etc. Read more in the article on how to cut tiles correctly.
Laying beacons and first rows
Do not forget to pay attention to the direction of the pattern when laying, usually there are arrows on the reverse side for this, they should point in the same direction for all tiles. nine0025
Holes for wires and sockets
Making cutouts for sockets and switches in the apron
- When you get to the wire outlet, you can make a hole with a tile drill. Since wall tiles are much softer than floor tiles, one drill is enough for at least 15-20 holes. nine0088
- Larger socket holes are made with a diamond drill bit. But if you have a grinder with a diamond disc on the tile ( the disc should be without holes, and the coating on it should be without notches ) and a little experience, then you can make holes with it.
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