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Small planting trees


Best trees for small gardens: 11 top picks for less-than-large plots

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Introducing one of the best trees for small gardens to your outdoor space will bring many benefits. As well as being a strong focal point, trees create dappled shade, attract wildlife, and clean the air. Plus, with their ever-changing foliage, blossom and fruits, there is always something new to look at as the seasons roll around. 

But, when considering small garden ideas, planting a tree might not be at the forefront of your mind. In fact, the thought may leave you feeling a little apprehensive. Yes, some are definitely best left to bigger backyards. But if you choose carefully, there are plenty of trees which can enhance even a tiny courtyard, without causing problems by getting too tall or bushy. So why not factor one in?

Best trees for small gardens: 11 types to try in your backyard

We've rounded up the best trees for small gardens below, to make it easy for you to find the perfect variety for your space. 

1. Olive

An olive tree in the Julius XXL Tuscan pot from Gardenesque

(Image credit: Gardenesque)

Olives are slow growing, reaching up to 6.5ft (2m) in 8–10 years, which makes them perfectly suited to smaller spaces. The silvery gray foliage stays intact year-round and they will thrive in a container. 

When planting, add a spade of horticultural grit to the soil to ensure good drainage. They can be 'standards' – that is, trees with a bare trunk and a shaped rounded top, or for a less formal effect, they can be left to grow irregularly.  

Olive trees need a sheltered spot to survive the winter. If you live in an exposed area, or your garden is in a frost pocket, wrap them up in some horticultural fleece if freezing conditions are forecast. Between April and October, feed olive trees once a month with a tomato feed. And keep them hydrated during the summer, watering until the liquid flows from the bottom of the pot. If they start to shed their leaves, a drink of water, a light prune and some food should solve the problem.

They'll add a lovely Mediterranean touch to your outdoor seating space. If you're looking for more small patio ideas, you'll find plenty in our feature.

2. Silver birch

Silver birches add an elegant accent to a garden

(Image credit: RM Floral/Alamy Stock Photo)

It is hard to beat the pale beauty of a silver birch tree and the good news is that there are varieties which are suited to smaller gardens. 

Betula utilis jacqumontii is a medium-sized tree with an elegant, slender shape. It will grow to approximately 23ft x 11.5ft (7m x 3.5m) over 20 years. Hardy and suited to all kinds of soil and conditions, it has airy green leaves in the spring and yellowy brown catkins, then turns a glorious golden yellow in autumn. Once the leaves have fallen, the snowy white bark is revealed, which is a stunning feature in itself. 

The tree is easy to care for: simply prune any dead or damaged branches in late summer to midwinter. If the bark looks grubby, it can be washed with plain water and a sponge. 

Jeremy Hall, Group Plant Buyer at Squire's Garden Centers particularly recommends the 'Snow Queen' variety – it 'has very pronounced white bark from an early age,' and 'also encourages bio-diversity as it supports an array of insects that birds love.'

Silver birch trees can be planted in the ground as 'bare roots' between November and February, providing the ground is frost-free – so add them to your list of winter garden jobs. Container versions can be planted at any time. Keep the area around them weed-free for the first few years. 

3. Amelanchier 

White blossom followed by copper-hued foliage make an amelanchier a lovely feature

(Image credit: Massimiliano Finzi/Moment/Getty Images)

These small deciduous trees, also known as Juneberry and serviceberry, have clusters of dreamy white star-shaped flowers on soft copper colored foliage in the spring. The leaves then turn to dramatic fiery reds and vivid orange in autumn. 

Try Amelanchier lamarkii 'Ballerina', as this variety will not grow taller or spread wider than 13–16.5ft (4–5m). Or, as recommended by Jeremy Hall of Squire’s Garden Centers, opt for 'Snow Flakes', which grows to a similar height. It is 'covered in snowy white flowers in spring that are loved by bees,' then 'has glossy reddish purple berries which the birds adore followed by a blaze of autumn color.'

Despite the delicate blossom, these are hardy trees, which can cope with damp conditions and most soil types, although they do prefer clay or sandy soil. Our guide to soil types will give you a helping hand if you're unsure.

4. Magnolia

A magnolia will always turn heads in spring

(Image credit: Klaus Steinkamp/Alamy Stock Photo)

The dramatic over-sized tulip-shaped blossoms in spring make the magnolia a real statement tree. 

A variety such as Magnolia x soulangeana has flushed pink flowers. The neat, rounded shape means that it suits smaller spaces, and it will make a splash if you're looking for new front garden ideas. Expect it to grow to about 20ft (6m) tall with a spread of 13ft (4m) over 20 years. 

These trees need full sun or partial shade and moist conditions. Avoid exposed areas, as a frost can ruin the display of blossom, turning the pretty petals brown. When planting, water well for the first few months, and during any dry spells in summer. A rabbit guard might be necessary if you live somewhere rural.

5. Crab apple

Try planting a crab apple for year-round interest

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography/Moment/Getty Images)

A compact crab apple tree can light up a small garden. In spring, it has beautiful clouds of pretty blossom. In autumn, it produces a profusion of tiny, richly colored fruits, in shades of scarlet, yellow, gold and red and it has attractively colored leaves, too. 

The height of these trees can vary widely, so check carefully before you buy – planting a tree too big is one of the biggest small garden design mistakes. Smaller ones include malus 'Butterball' and 'Wisley Crab' which can reach a height of around 13ft (4m). Malus x zumi is a pretty rounded tree with golden fruit. 

Plant them in a sunny site, in moist but not wet soil. In winter, remove any damaged branches, or ones that cross over each other. Bare root varieties should be planted between November to March, while container grown trees can go in at any time.

6. Acer

Bold and beautiful acers add vibrant color to a scene

(Image credit: Mabo/Alamy Stock Photo)

If you love a riot of autumn color, then an acer is a must. They will introduce a pop of blazing orange, red, or a rich pink, and once the gorgeous leaves have fallen, many have ornamental bark which makes a lovely feature.  

There are many different types to choose from, but Acer palmatum 'Orange Dream' is a good choice as it is a dense, small tree which grows to 13ft (4m) tall over 20 years. Acers prefer partial shade – the sun can scorch their leaves – and they will grow happily in containers or in the ground. 

For pot grown trees, use ericaceous compost to plant them in, as this ensures a more vibrant foliage color. Avoid banking up the soil in a volcano effect around the bough, as this may encourage disease. Acers rarely need pruning: they are low-maintenance trees and an asset to any garden. 

If you want to know more, our guide on how to grow acers has everything you'll need.

7. Ornamental cherry

Bring clouds of springtime blossom to your yard

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography/Moment/Getty Images)

A confetti of pink or white petals in spring is the hallmark of cherry trees, and there are some very pretty smaller varieties which suit a compact space. Try Prunus yedoensis for its weeping branches and romantic white almond-scented blossom which is loved by bees and butterflies. It will reach around 10ft (3m) tall in 10 years. Another option is the cherry 'Pink Shell' which has pastel pink flowers which turn to white in April, contrasting beautifully with its light green leaves. And, it won't grow beyond 11.5ft (3.5m). 

Ornamental cherry trees prefer full sun and moist, well-drained soil of any type. Once established, they are very low maintenance. The most difficult decision is choosing which variety to go for!

You can find more picks of the best flowering trees in our dedicated guide.

8. Chinese dogwood

These trees are an elegant addition to a garden with their white flowers

(Image credit: M.Arai/Moment/Getty Images)

Known for their show-stopping displays of flowers in June, the Chinese dogwood – or Cornus kousa – delivers throughout the seasons, with pretty autumnal foliage and an unusual pink fruit shaped like a strawberry.  

Not every variety is suitable for a limited space, so check carefully before buying. For tiny gardens, a dwarf dogwood, such as Cornus kousa 'Angyo Dwarf' will only reach 4–5ft (1.2–1.5m) tall, but other varieties can grow as tall as 26ft (8m). These trees need full sun or partial shade, and they prefer a moist, free-draining neutral to acid soil.

9. Rowan

Rowan berries will attract birds to your garden

(Image credit: Westend61/Getty Images)

Theresa Scattergood, Plant Manager at Squire's Garden Center in Washington suggests the mountain ash, otherwise known as rowan, as one of the best trees for small gardens. It will give good height and privacy, she says – perfect if you're on the lookout for garden privacy ideas.

With their clusters of berries in autumn, they're ideal for attracting birds. Try the Sorbus vilmorinii variety, which has froths of summertime blossom, followed by pinkish berries which fade to white as fall turns into winter. It will eventually grow to 13ft x 13ft (4m x 4m).

10. Hawthorn

Frothy hawthorn blossom is a stunning springtime sight

(Image credit: Alex Ramsay/Alamy Stock Photo)

Theresa also suggests hawthorn for small gardens. Commonly seen in hedgerows in the English countryside, the tree-forming variety makes a beautiful addition to a backyard and will welcome in wildlife.

The RHS suggests Crataegus persimilis ‘Prunifolia’ due to its compact growth, dark and glossy foliage, and white flowers followed by crimson berries and fall color. It will grow to a height of 16.5ft (5m).

What's more, it's a hardy tree, and will grow well in all kinds of conditions including exposed and damp sites.

11. Cotoneaster

The bright red berries of cotoneaster 'Hybridus Pendulus'

(Image credit: Clare Gainey/Alamy Stock Photo)

Jeremy Hall, Group Plant Buyer at Squire's Garden Centers recommends cotoneaster 'Hybridus Pendulus' as one of the best small garden trees. Whilst some varieties of cotoneaster are shrub-like in form, this particular type is a weeping small tree, with elegant branches that form a dome shape.

It's 'covered in red berries in the autumn – great for birds and squirrels,' Jeremy adds. Plus, it's evergreen, so the glossy, deep green leaves will offer interest and color to your garden all year round. It grows to an ultimate height of around 6.5ft (2m) after 20 years and can even be grown in a pot if you're looking for courtyard garden ideas.

What is the best evergreen tree for a small garden?

Looking for a small tree that'll add a boost of greenery to your yard come winter? Try these evergreen varieties:

Photinia x fraseri 'Red Robin' offers vibrant color

(Image credit: allanbellimages/Alamy Stock Photo)

How to plant a small tree

Feeling inspired to bring one of the best trees for small gardens into your plot? Once you've purchased it, here's how to plant it:

  1. Water the tree first in the container you bought it in.
  2. Dig a square-shaped hole that is twice as large as the tree's rootball and soil. It is important that the hole is deep and wide enough for the tree's roots to spread out.
  3. Put a 20 liter bag of John Innes No.3 compost into the hole and work it into the soil.
  4. Release the tree from its pot, taking great care not to damage the roots. Place it in the planting hole.
  5. Refill the hole, making sure that the tree is planted the same depth as it was in its pot.
  6. Press the soil around the tree down firmly.
  7. Water around the tree with a full can. Keep the tree well-watered, until it is firmly established.  

If you need a new tool for planting your small garden trees, our buying guide to the best garden spade has you covered.

Planting a small tree is simple

(Image credit: Westend61/Getty Images)

When is the best time to plant a tree?

October and November are the ideal months to plant a tree. The temperature and level of moisture in the soil at this time are optimum for encouraging roots to establish and regenerate.

This is also the time when bare root varieties are available from garden centers and nurseries, offering a wide choice and lower prices than mature pot-grown trees.

An experienced freelance journalist, editor and columnist writing for national magazines and websites, Fiona now specialises in gardens. She enjoys finding and writing about all kinds, from the tiniest town plots to impressively designed ones in grand country houses. 

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Sometimes little is just right!

By Arricca Elin Sansone

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Sure, flowers, shrubs, and perennials make for pretty flower beds, but don't forget about trees to go alongside them in your landscaping! Have a small backyard or small lot? No problem. Plenty of trees come in petite packages. They can create natural privacy for your front yard or backyard while also making sure birds, pollinators, and wildlife have plenty of shade and shelter. Plus, trees provide lots of beauty and color that will be there for years and decades to come. Whether you are looking for a tree that is fast-growing, evergreen, loves shade, or will look great all year, there are options for you.

But first, some planting tips: Start by digging a hole about twice as wide as the root ball or container, but that is only deep enough to sits an inch or two above ground level (planting too deep is a common mistake!). Next, remove the tree's burlap, wire, and twine from the root ball so they don't get in the way of with root growth and or decompose. From there, spread out the roots in the hole, refill soil around the tree, and tamp down. Be sure not to put potting soil or other additives in the hole since research shows that encourages roots to circle around inside the hole and not stretch into surrounding native soil.

And now for 10 of our favorite small trees for every garden that are sure to inspire your outdoor space.

1

Dogwood Tree

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Huge pink, red or white spring flowers, showy red fruit, and impressive fall color are the reasons why dogwoods have always been popular. Many different varieties, including new hybrids that are more disease-resistant, exist.

Height at maturity: About 15 to 20 feet

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2

Chastetree

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This lesser-known tree is more like a very large shrub, but it can be pruned into a multi-trunk tree form. Its pretty purple flower spikes appear in summer. In the north, it typically dies back in winter and regrows shrub-like in the spring. But it makes a nice small tree in the south.

Height at maturity: 6 to 8 feet

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3

Seven-Son Flower

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Once only known by plant collectors, this multi-stemmed tree is becoming more popular because of its year-round beauty. It boasts curling leaves, peeling bark, and fragrant white flowers that become twisted red bracts. Pollinators love it! It's a beautiful specimen tree for any landscape.

Height at maturity: About 10 to 20 feet

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4

Smoke Tree

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This tree has unusual clusters of airy, smoke-like seeds with reddish foliage that turns to orange in fall. It holds its color all season long.

Height at maturity: About 15 feet

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5

Redbud Tree

Christine_Kohler

Teeny-tiny pink or purple flowers cling to the bare branches of this native charmer in early spring. The pretty heart-shaped leaves are reddish or golden, depending on the variety.

Height at maturity: About 10 to 20 feet

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6

Japanese Maple

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These eye-catching trees have delicate foliage, interesting bark, and elegant, arching limbs. The foliage comes in an array of shades from pale green to deep burgundy. Most varieties prefer part shade. Like most maples, many types also have stunning fall color.

Height at maturity: 15 to 20 feet

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7

Crabapple Tree

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Dense branches, dazzling deep purplish flowers in spring, and tiny fruit make the cold-hardy crabapple a favorite as an accent tree or planted in a row.

Height at maturity: About 15 to 20 feet

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8

Serviceberry

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This small, shrubby tree has fragrant clusters of white flowers that become purple berries in fall. Make jam from them, or share them with the wildlife! It's also a good tree for screening.

Height at maturity: About 12 to 15 feet

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9

Crepe Myrtle

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This star of the Southern landscape has dark bark, glossy leaves, and vibrant fall colors. Its showy, frilly flowers come in every shade from pure white to hot pink. This tree tolerates heat, humidity and drought once established. Incidentally, it's spelled both "crepe" and "crape," depending on where you live.

Height at maturity: About 10 to 20 feet

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10

Japanese Stewartia

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A lovely lesser-known tree, Japanese Stewartia has pretty summer blooms that resemble camellias and orangey-red fall color. It's a slow-growing but truly outstanding specimen tree.

Height at maturity: About 15 to 20 feet

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Arricca Elin Sansone Arricca SanSone has written about health and lifestyle topics for Prevention, Country Living, Woman's Day, and more.

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Basic types of planting trees and shrubs

Basic types of planting trees and shrubs

Trees and shrubs in flower beds and green areas of parks and forest parks are planted in the form of single, group, linear, continuous plantings. They are also used to create hedges, alleys. Climbing and climbing vines are used for vertical gardening.

In single plantings (soliters), trees and shrubs are placed in isolation from other plantations on lawns and edges of wood massifs. In landscape-type parks and forest parks, their location is determined by landscape motifs. On spacious glades, tall trees with mighty tent-shaped crowns are most acceptable. Small lawns can be decorated with undersized plants with the original color of foliage, trunks, branches.

In flower beds of regular style, small trees with weeping or columnar crowns, conifers with silvery, yellow and variegated needles, flowering shrubs, standard currants, honeysuckle, lilacs are good. Slow-growing species that tolerate shearing well (hornbeam, hawthorn, boxwood, linden, juniper) are used in parterres to create ornamental green sculptures in the form of complex spatial bodies and figures.

The group includes at least three plants. It can be single-species (clump) and heterogeneous, woody, shrubby, tree-shrub. Groups are placed on lawns, lawns, edges, in the recesses of massifs, along the banks of reservoirs. The most decorative are mixed (diverse) groups, composed of trees that differ in height, crown shape, color of leaves and branches. Often a combination of hardwood and softwood is used.

Massif-closed park planting of trees and shrubs, occupying the largest area. It is characterized by free outlines with protrusions and recesses. It can be interrupted by glades, lawns, dissected by paths. The inner part of the massif consists of tall trees, on the outer part (edge) low-growing species, including shrubs, are planted. At the edge, to make the planting more decorative, single and group plantings of plants with ornamental properties are placed.

Massifs in large parks often differ from each other in landscape motifs. One can be created according to the type of coniferous forest, the other is mixed, the third is deciduous. A good impression is made by the alternation of mixed (heterogeneous) massifs with small single-species massifs-groves.

Free placement of trees in arrays is impractical. It is difficult to break down the site, and later to care for it. Trees are best planted in winding rows. This planting looks like natural land. At the same time, mechanized tillage and, if necessary, irrigation can be carried out in it.

In linear plantings (ordinary) trees or shrubs are placed at equal distances from each other. Such plantings are single and multi-row. They are used to create protective strips around landscaped objects, lining streets, walls, fences, when forming alleys.

Alley - row planting of trees and shrubs, bordering on both sides of the road, footpath, path. Consists of an even number of rows. Alleys usually include even-aged trees of the same species, but two-species plantings can also be created.

Hedge - a very dense (solid) linear planting of shrubs, rarely trees. It serves to decorate green spaces, delimit individual sections in squares and parks, and on the streets to protect passers-by from dust and dirt. It is also used as a fence. Plants in hedges are cut and shaped regularly. Breeds that do not tolerate these operations (wrinkled rose, lilac, mock orange, amorpha) are grown in the form of free-growing walls 1.5-2 m high.

Hedges are low (up to 0.5 m), medium (0.5-1 m) and high (over 1 m). Low hedges are called borders. They are used for planting along walking paths, along the contour of flower beds, around tree and shrub groups.

Vertical landscaping - planting of vertical surfaces: walls of buildings, balconies, fences and special garden structures - gazebos, pergolas, trellises, arches. Creepers reduce overheating of walls in summer and hypothermia in winter, protect walls from excessive waterlogging.

For vertical gardening, climbing and climbing plants are used, having an original shape and color of leaves, beautiful flowers, decorative clusters of ripening fruits. Fast-growing vines that form long stems are suitable for decorating high walls and structures. Low buildings are decorated with actinidia kolomikta, Japanese hops, climbing (curly) roses, short-stemmed varieties of clematis. Balconies are usually decorated with annual plants.

Light-loving species are planted on the southern side of the landscaped objects. Semi-shady places can be planted with lemongrass, actividia, Amur grapes. For deaf shady walls, ivy, girlish grapes and wood pliers are most suitable.

Planting trees and shrubs: basic rules

Planting trees and shrubs: basic rules

As a rule, planting plants raises many questions not only among beginner amateur gardeners, but also among practicing gardeners. How to plant? When is the best time to plant? What to do with the packaging of the root system when planting? Is it easier to plant container plants?

In this article, we will try to answer most of the most common questions and formulate the basic rules and recommendations for planting and everything connected with it.

Despite the fact that the rules for handling plants and planting technology are quite simple, their strict observance, along with high-quality planting material and careful plant care, guarantees you excellent results: high survival rate, healthy and ornamental plants for many years.

Basic handling of plants during unloading and planting
First of all, in order to avoid breakage of branches and other damage, they must be tied up when loading and transporting plants. At the same time, fragile and brittle plants, such as winged euonymus, hydrangeas, heathers, junipers, as well as dwarf coniferous and standard forms, should be treated very carefully.

If the weather is hot, do not transport seedlings in a hermetically sealed box unless it is an insulated container. High temperatures can cause damage to leaf and shoot tissues. Cars with an awning or open (onboard) are best suited for plants within the area. For long-distance transportation, insulated containers are better.
Plants on the site can be unloaded manually or by mechanical means: auto-loader, crane-manipulator.

Heavy trees require special handling. Plants with a lump can only rise behind a lump, while it is imperative to support the tree trunk or crown if it is a bush form. Rough handling of the trunk can lead to serious mechanical damage to the bark and wood, as well as damage to the ball and roots if the tree is lifted by the trunk.

The coma of large trees and shrubs is usually packed in a metal braid (mesh). This greatly facilitates their unloading and movement - special hooks are used to lift the plants, which are hooked onto the net. However, if the lump is packed only in burlap, the use of hooks is unacceptable - this leads to severe damage to the burlap and the integrity of the lump, and, consequently, the root system of the plant.

When unloading large-sized plants with a large clod using a crane-manipulator, 3 chocks are used: 2 of them hold the main weight of the clod, and the third supports the tree trunk in a horizontal position or slightly higher (see figure). At the same time, it is very important to protect the trunk at the place where the chalk is attached from damage and scuffing of the bark, for example, by wrapping it with a thick layer of burlap.

Unloading container plants is much easier. Plastic containers and soft bags-containers (Easy Lift), as a rule, are equipped with 2-4 comfortable handles.

After the seedlings are delivered to the site, it is advisable to immediately start planting them. The shorter the shelf life of plants and the faster the planting, the higher the survival rate. This rule is especially important during spring plantings, when the air temperature rises every day, the plants enter the growth phase and require more and more careful care.

If, nevertheless, it is not possible to plant the plants immediately, it is best to leave them for a while in the shade. Tall trees have a large windage and can fall. Therefore, they need to be tied to some kind of support, while protecting the trunk from damage with burlap. If this is not possible, it is permissible to carefully lay the trees on the ground.

The coma and containers of plants need to be watered and, during storage, covered from overheating and drying with burlap or mulched with a thick layer of sawdust, humus. Plants are watered daily, and if necessary, 2 times a day.

If you purchased open-rooted plants and can only plant them after a few days, try placing them in cooler conditions such as a basement, a cold garage, or the north side of the house where there is no direct sun. The roots should be covered with a damp cloth, and it is best to dig in. You can not keep the root system of seedlings constantly immersed in water - the roots will not be able to breathe.


Choosing a place for planting
Ideally, plants should be planted according to the assortment list in pre-marked places (project, planting drawing and dendroplan). This will allow you to avoid many mistakes when choosing an assortment and placing plants on the site.

If you do not have a planting project, be sure to take into account not only the decorative qualities of a particular species, the size of adult plants, but also the requirements for growing conditions, but rather entrust the selection and arrangement of plants in the garden to a professional landscape designer.

A planted plant will grow successfully only under optimal soil, air, light, heat and moisture conditions. If at least one of the conditions does not meet the requirements of the plant, then it will determine the result.

Usually, if the requirements for growing conditions are not taken into account during planting (for example, a light-loving shrub is planted in the shade), this will not lead to the immediate death of the plant, but its development will be slowed down (the shoots will stretch, the crown will not be thick), the decorative qualities will deteriorate (there will be no bloom), frost resistance and disease resistance will decrease.
As a rule, most plants develop well if they are provided with the following conditions:

Illumination: optimal sun or light partial shade; if the direct sun in the area is less than half of the daylight hours, you should choose plants that tolerate partial shade and shade;
Soil moisture: average is optimal, that is, neither drying out of the clod nor stagnation of water is allowed. For excessively dry soils, if it is impossible to provide regular watering, choose drought-resistant varieties. With a high position of groundwater and stagnant waterlogging, plants are respectively resistant to flooding.
Soil: loamy or sandy, light, rich in organic and mineral substances. pH close to neutral (6-7). If the soil in your area is heavy or very acidic, be sure to take this into account when choosing an assortment, planting plants that are moisture-loving (or prefer an acidic substrate) and give preference to undemanding species and varieties.
Wind: many heat-loving and capricious breeds winter well only if they are planted in a place protected from the wind, where more snow accumulates in winter.

Planting with ball
1. Planting dates
Usually, planting is carried out in two periods: in spring and autumn.

During spring planting, the main danger is the drying out of the root system. Therefore, during transportation, storage of plants, it is necessary to carefully monitor that the roots (clod of earth) are always wet, and the branches (especially with blossoming leaves) are protected from the scorching sun and wind.

The timing of spring planting is immediately after the soil thaws and before the active growth of shoots begins (in the middle lane, usually from the beginning of April to the first week of May).

But, despite the fact that the period between the maturation of the soil and the beginning of growth in plants is only two to three weeks, which should be met, spring planting has many advantages.

Firstly, plants planted in spring during the summer and autumn will be able to take root well in a new place and adapt to our climate. Timely spring planting, subject to all the rules of agricultural technology, gives the highest survival rate.

Secondly, from a practical point of view, it is preferable to plant in the spring, since the choice of planting material in April-May is the widest: the peak of supplies falls just in the spring. You can not only place an order for plants of the desired type, variety, size and quantity, but also choose your favorite specimens on the site.

When choosing the timing of planting, it is necessary to take into account some biological features of the species. So, the autumn transplant is poorly tolerated by such species as oak and birch. These species are traditionally planted in the spring (this is not true for container plants). Heat-loving, capricious plants (for example, rhododendrons, azaleas, privet), also in our climate, it is preferable to plant in the spring - this will allow them to take root better and prepare for winter.

In addition, when planting in the spring, you will be able to admire new plants in your garden already this year.

A very typical mistake during spring plantings: "You need to wait until the earth warms up." In fact, it is better to plant earlier, as soon as you can dig a planting hole.

The autumn planting season begins with the beginning of leaf fall. Compared to the short spring period, the search and planting of the necessary species or varieties of plants can continue until the first frosts, but the peak of the autumn season is September-mid-October.

Planting should not be overly delayed: in late autumn, the choice of planting material in nurseries and garden centers is no longer so rich.

In this case, it is much more convenient to place an order for plants and receive high-quality planting material by a certain date in the right assortment and quantity.

2. Preparing the seat
Planting begins after the completion of construction and part of the landscape work on the site. The area for planting should be leveled (if necessary, a vertical layout should be made), cleared of debris, and the necessary measures taken to improve the soil. This will protect your new plants from accidental damage to the bark during work, compaction of the soil in the root zone, filling of excess soil covering the root collar, etc. and avoid many problems in the future.

Landing pits and trenches are dug out in accordance with the project after marking work has been completed (taking the project into nature). For early spring plantings, pits can be dug in the fall, warming them for the winter with foliage, moss, sawdust, straw.

When digging holes, the upper fertile layer of the earth is folded separately from the lower, less fertile one. When backfilling the pits, fertile soil is first used. In case of unsuitability of the excavated soil, it is partially or completely replaced with the brought fertile soil.

It is optimal if the properties of the soil, its mechanical composition on the site and within the planting pit are close. Significantly change the composition of the soil only within the planting hole should not be.

Some plants (rhododendrons, heathers, roses) require a special soil substrate with a certain structure, composition or pH, which is prepared in advance, in accordance with the requirements of the plants or bought ready-made.

If the soil on the site is disturbed, the soil contains a large amount of construction debris and clay (taken out from under the foundation) and there is no way to take measures to improve it, planting is carried out in pits filled with imported soil.

The shape of the pit is made round with sheer walls. Since after planting the roots of the plant mainly grow to the sides, a large depth of the planting hole is not needed. It is better if it is slightly larger than the height of the plant's coma - this will subsequently reduce soil subsidence.

In addition, it is useful to loosen the walls of the planting hole or dig the soil around so that the roots can more easily grow into the surrounding soil. The diameter of the planting holes depends on the size and age of the plant, and, most importantly, on the size of the root system. On average, the diameter of the pit should be 1.5 times the diameter of the lump.

For dense group plantings of shrubs, common pits are dug in the form of a planted group, for hedges - trenches, respectively.

Separately, you need to consider the issue of planting on heavy, clay soils. As a rule, improving (replacing) the soil within the planting pit (especially for large trees) is ineffective, since a large difference in the mechanical composition of the soil between heavy clay and light planting soil will retain the “container” effect: the roots of the plant will most likely not leave the planting pit. pits. In this case, you need to improve the soil throughout the area. The situation is similar with excessively light, sandy soils.

3. Planting technology
After preparing the seat, proceed directly to planting.

When planting a plant in a hole, it is very important to track the position of the root neck (thickening of the base of the trunk, where it goes into the roots).

In woody plants, the deepening of the root collar, especially on heavy clay soils, leads to the formation of rot. The fact is that with prolonged stagnation of water, which often happens in the spring near the trunks during snowmelt or in rainy weather, oxygen-free conditions are created, the bark on the trunk cannot breathe normally and can be damaged by rot in the lower part.

This process is slow, so such plants may initially grow and develop normally, but will gradually acquire an oppressed appearance and die.

For the correct installation of the plant, first inspect the root system and the base of the trunk: is the root neck visible. If it is buried, then it is necessary to free it by removing part of the soil from the surface of the clod (or container).

The position of the root collar when planting the plant can be checked using a flat bar placed on the edges of the planting hole. Ideally, the root collar should be at ground level (maybe a little higher), but should never be buried. Therefore, taking into account the subsidence of the soil, the plants are planted 5 - 20 cm above the desired level. In order not to take out a large tree several times and not to add earth, it is advisable to compare the depth of the planting hole and the height of the plant coma in advance.

After setting the tree in the hole at the right level, it must be leveled so that the trunk is vertical and the plant is oriented in the direction you need.

If necessary, you need to take care of the garter of planted plants. In order to fix the tree in a vertical position, two strong pegs are used, which are hammered into the bottom of the planting hole, and elastic twine. Such support is needed in the first 1-2 years after planting, until the tree is fixed in a new place in a natural way.

Very often, our customers ask: is it necessary to remove the burlap and wire braid (mesh) from the coma before planting.

Metal braid and burlap serve to maintain the integrity of the coma during transportation and planting, and prevent damage to the roots. In the ground (after planting), the mesh decomposes in 1.5-2 years, burlap - even faster. Therefore, it is not necessary to completely remove the packaging from the coma.

Nevertheless, the mesh tightens the plant ball tightly enough and in order not to impede the growth and respiration of the roots in the first year after planting, we recommend that after planting the plant in the prepared planting hole, carefully cut off the upper third of the wire braid with the help of wire cutters, and also release the root neck and the upper part of the coma from burlap. At the same time, it is very important that the lump remains intact.

After installing the tree, you need to properly spill the lump so that it is completely saturated with water. This must be done carefully, without eroding the soil. Often water is not poured on anyone by plants, but the pit itself is filled.

After that, you can begin to fill the pit with earth. First, a lump is covered by 1/3 of the height, the soil is carefully compacted and spilled with water. Then the rest of the pit is filled in layers, making sure that there are no voids left. Cavities not filled with earth next to the plant clod, left during inaccurate planting, lead to the drying of the roots and can cause the plant to become depressed, some of the branches to dry out and even die.

Around each plant, along the perimeter of the planting pit, an earthen roller 10-20 cm high is formed. It serves to retain water during irrigation: so that it does not spread, but penetrates to the roots of the plant.

After planting, the plants are thoroughly watered and the soil is loosened in order to retain moisture. The trunk circle of plants is recommended to be mulched. Mulch protects the root system from overheating, retains moisture in the soil, and limits the growth of weeds. Wood chips, crushed pine bark, humus and other organic materials can be used as mulch.

4. After-planting care
In the first period after planting, the plant is especially carefully cared for: watering, straightening leaning plants, checking tree ties to stakes, pouring earth into settled planting pits.

Regular watering in the first year after planting largely ensures a high survival rate. Watering is carried out depending on the weather, on average - at least 1 time per week. Water more frequently in hot weather. In rainy weather, if the plant receives enough moisture, watering is limited. Abundant watering of trees and large shrubs (75-100 liters of water per 1 sq. M) is carried out using a hose. Irrigation with sprinklers is often inefficient, since it provides moisture only to the top layer of soil and is applicable for lawns, flower beds, small shrubs, and water does not reach the roots of large trees, to a depth of 50-60 cm or more.

Planted plants do not feed until they are properly established. This stimulates the development of a strong and healthy root system.

In the first year after planting, while the plant takes root and adapts, the likelihood of developing diseases increases. Only high-quality, healthy planting material, the choice of the optimal location, the correct timing, planting technology and competent post-planting care are a guarantee that your plants will have sufficient immunity against diseases and pests.

If you suspect that a plant is affected by pests or diseases, it is important to accurately identify the pathogen and take action. To do this, you need to have a fairly broad knowledge in the field of entomology, phytopathology and plant protection. There are many drugs on the market today, most of which are highly specialized and may not be effective if the diagnosis is erroneous. You can use special literature, reference guides and advice from garden forums, but it is best to contact plant pathologists who can give a professional opinion and recommend remedies.

Features of planting container plants
Container-grown seedlings can be planted from spring to autumn, including summer. However, container-grown plants have their own characteristics: they are grown in a light container substrate, with regular top dressing, they have a very compact and dense root system. In order for such a plant to adapt to the new conditions of your site, more careful and regular care will be required, especially if you plant in the phase of active shoot growth (end of May - July).

The container plant needs to be well watered before planting. This will keep the small roots from drying out and make it easier to free the plant from the container.

If, after removing the container, it turns out that the roots of the plant are very elongated and twisted, they must be cut before planting, and straightened to the sides in the planting hole. If the roots are excessively tangled and intertwined, then you can use a knife or a sharp shovel and make shallow notches on the root ball from two opposite sides, removing long roots. Planting a plant with intertwined roots leads to the formation of an irregular root system, the plant takes root worse and needs support longer.

In the first season after planting, watering is especially important for container plants. The root system of a plant grown in a light container substrate is very dense and dense, concentrated in a relatively small volume and has a large water absorption capacity. Therefore, immediately after planting, until the roots sprout into the surrounding soil, regular, timely watering is very important for such a plant, which should never dry out.

Features of planting plants with an open root system
Most often, small 2-3 year old fruit trees are planted using this method: apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, as well as unpretentious shrubs in groups and hedges (cotoneaster, derain, etc.).

The planting dates for plants with an open root system are shorter than for plants with a lump - in spring, planting of plants must be completed before bud break (for Moscow and the Moscow region - until the end of April), and in autumn from the beginning of mass leaf fall until the end of October. To reduce the risk of drying out of the roots, it is advisable to plant plants in cloudy weather.

The preparation of the seat does not have any features: single holes are dug in accordance with the size of the root system of the plant. If dense groups are planted, it is advisable to prepare common pits in the form of a group. When digging a trench for a hedge, they are guided by the following dimensions: for a single-row hedge (W x D) 0.5x0.5 m, for a two-row hedge - 0.7x0.5 m.

In seedlings, the root system is carefully examined and all damaged and too long roots are cut.

Before planting, a mound of earth is poured to the bottom of the pit, the plant is placed, gently straightening the roots. When filling a hole, the plant is slightly shaken so that the earth evenly fills the voids between the roots. The poured soil is compacted from the edges of the pit to the center.

The root neck of the planted plant should be 5-10 cm above the soil level, since the earth with which the pit is covered will subsequently settle.

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