Plants that grow well with tomatoes

Companion Herbs for Tomato Gardens

Worst Tomato Companion Plants

These plants are infamous for inhibiting tomato plant growth and increasing their susceptibility to pests or diseases and should not be planted with tomatoes.

• Cabbage (Brassica) family: Relatives of cabbage cultivars stunt the growth of tomato plants (including broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, ornamental kale, kohlrabi, rutabaga varieties, and turnip). However, some gardeners do like placing collard greens a few feet away from their tomato plants to lure away damaging harlequin bugs.
• Sweet Corn: The corn earworm is the same as the tomato fruitworm (Helicoverpa zea). Growing plants in proximity that are susceptible to the same pests can invite disaster and a decimated garden.
• Eggplant, hot peppers, and heirlom potatoes: These plants are in the nightshade family like tomatoes, and are all susceptible to early blight and late blight, which can build up in the soil and get worse each year. Avoid planting them near each other or in place of each other for at least three years. Tomato hornworms (Manduca quinquemaculata, the larva stage of the five-spotted hawkmoth) love the foliage and fruit of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants and can quickly decimate plants. Also, planting tomatoes near potatoes can make the potatoes more susceptible to potato blight.
• Fennel: Fennel secretes a substance from its roots that inhibits tomato plant growth. This secretion affects many other garden plants, too. However, some gardeners deploy fennel to manage aphid invasions.
• Walnuts: Do not plant tomatoes under walnut or butternut trees, which produce an allelopathic chemical called juglone that inhibits the growth of tomatoes (and all the members of the nightshade family). Tomatoes are also susceptible to the disease walnut wilt.

Tomatoes and Roses

While several plants are touted as terrific tomato companions, tomatoes can act as companion plants, too. Tomatoes have been shown to protect flowering roses from a disease called black spot.

If you can't plant tomatoes among your roses, make a spray of liquefied tomato leaves, a tablespoon of cornstarch, and about 4 pints of water. Spritz your roses once a week to keep black spot at bay.

Great Companion Plants for Roses

Article Sources

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

1. Cover Crops. USDA.

2. Pest Control Companion Planting Chart. Brigham Young University. 

3. Phytophthora Blight. University of Massachusetts Vegetable Extension Program.

4. Baker, Brian P. and Grant, Jennifer A. Garlic and Garlic Oil Profile. New York State Integrated Pest Management. Cornell University.

5. Companion Planting Chart. University of California Cooperative Extension.

6. Gardening: It’s a Risky Business. Mississippi State University Extension, 2019. 

7. Gevens, Amanda; Seidl, Anna; Hudelson, Brian. Late Blight. University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension, 2017.

8. Bauske, Mitchell J.; Robinson, Andrew P.; Gudmestad, Neil C. Early Blight in Potato. North Dakota State University, 2018. 

9. Herb Gardening. Colorado State University Extension.

10. Walnut Wilt. Kansas State University Research and Extension, 2022.

11. Gray, Laveryne. Companion Plantings: Tomatoes and Roses. Marion County Master Gardeners.  

How to Grow Borage: Planting and Care

Borage is an easy, fast-growing, annual herb with vivid blue flowers and the flavor and scent of cucumbers. While it is considered an herb, it's often grown as a flowering plant to entice pollinators into vegetable gardens. Borage is considered a good companion plant for tomatoes, squash, and strawberries. It’s even supposed to deter tomato hornworms and improve the flavor of tomatoes growing nearby. Borage is an annual plant, but it self-seeds readily.

Borage is a somewhat gangly plant, but you barely notice that because the star-shaped flowers hanging in downward-facing clusters are so vibrant. It also boasts a greenish-gray stem and leaves that are covered in a prickly fuzz, which acts as a deterrent for insects. Planting borage should be done in the early spring. While people do eat the leaves, technically the leaves are mildly toxic both to people and pets. In raw form, the leaves contain pyrrolizidine alkaloids that can cause a variety of mild but unpleasant digestive problems if eaten in large quantities.

Common Name	Borage, starflower, tailwort
Botanical Name	Borago officinalis
Family	Boraginaceae
Plant Type	Annual, herb
Size	1-3 ft. tall, 9-18 in. wide
Sun Exposure	Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type	Well-drained
Soil pH	Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time	Summer
Bloom Color	Blue
Hardiness Zones	2–11 (USDA)
Native Area	Mediterranean
Toxicity	Toxic to people and pets

How to Plant Borage

When to Plant

Plant borage in the garden in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. Or start seeds indoors three to four weeks before your area's projected last frost. Transplant seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed, making sure to harden them off first (gradually acclimate them to outdoor conditions).

Selecting a Planting Site

Borage can tolerate a variety of soil conditions if there is good drainage. Make sure to select a location that gets at least four hours of direct sunlight on most days, watching out for taller plants nearby that might shade the borage as they grow in the spring. Borage also can be grown in containers.

Spacing, Depth, and Support

Borage is most commonly planted from seeds, as nursery plants aren't typically available. Plant seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings when they are six to eight inches tall spaced from 18 to 24 inches apart. A support structure won't be necessary.

Borage Care

Light

Borage will grow in full sun to partial shade. However, growing borage plants in full sun will give you the best chance of lots of blooms and stocky stems.

Soil

Borage can thrive even in dry, nutrient-poor soils. However, it prefers a moderately moist, well-drained soil. It also can tolerate a fairly wide soil pH range (4.5–8.5), though it likes a slightly acidic soil. Amending your soil with organic matter, such as compost, will help to give your plants a nutritional boost.

Water

As your borage is growing from seed and getting established in your garden, water it at least every few days to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Once the plant is mature, you can allow the soil to dry out between waterings.

Temperature and Humidity

Borage is a particularly hardy herb able to withstand temperatures on both ends of the spectrum. However, while it is tolerant of both heat and cool weather, it won't be able to withstand a hard frost. It has no special humidity needs.

Fertilizer

Borage plants growing in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants, following label instructions. Fertilizer that's high in phosphorous will aid in flower production.

Pollination

Borage self-pollinates and tends to attract bees and other pollinators to the garden.

The Spruce / Autumn Wood

The Spruce / Autumn Wood

Types of Borage

Most gardeners plant the pure species plant, Borago officinalis. However, there are two common cultivars, as well as a closely related species:

• Borago officinalis ‘Variegata’ has white mottling on the green leaves. Its flowers are less intense than common borage.
• Borago officinalis ‘Alba’, also called white borage, blooms later in the season than the blue varieties with lovely white flowers. 'Alba' is a sturdier plant than common borage.
• Creeping borage (Borago pygmaea) is a sprawling species with pale blue flowers that bloom from late spring to late fall. It is a short-lived perennial species.

Borage vs. Comfrey

Borage and comfrey are both flowering plants from the Boraginaceae family. They look similar to one another when they’re not in bloom. However, their flowers can be used as a distinguishing feature. Borage flowers are typically blue while comfrey flowers are pink, purple, and white. In addition, comfrey generally grows in clumps while borage can be more sprawling.

Harvesting Borage

Borage will reach maturity in about eight weeks after planting, at which point you can harvest the leaves and flowers as needed. The plants will start to decline if they are not deadheaded and are left to go to seed. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer bloom period, along with a longer harvest time.

Simply pick off the leaves and flowers you need by hand or use garden scissors. They are best eaten fresh after harvesting, though you also can keep them in the refrigerator for a few days. Borage can add a bit of cucumber flavor and color to salads, soups, dips, beverages, and ice cubes. Chop the leaves finely for use in cooking. The young stalks are also edible; prepare them as you would celery or similar vegetables.

This is not a plant that should be a major part of your diet, nor should you eat it in large quantities. It contains small amounts of pyrrolizidine alkaloids, and frequently eating large quantities can lead to stomach upset or even more serious health issues. Instead, borage is best used occasionally in small quantities to add flavoring.

How to Grow Borage in Pots

Growing borage in a pot is a great option if you don’t have enough space in your garden beds. Use a container that’s at least 12 inches deep with ample drainage holes. An unglazed terra cotta pot is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Note that container-grown plants will typically need more frequent watering than those grown in the ground, though you shouldn't allow the soil to become soggy.

Pruning

Regularly deadheading the plants, the process of removing spent blooms, will encourage the plants to keep blooming for several weeks. Also, if you prune back borage by one-half in midsummer, it will grow tender new leaves for a late summer harvest.

Propagating Borage

Borage is typically propagated via seeds, but it also can be grown from volunteer plants that sprout up after a mature plant has self-seeded. This is a quick and inexpensive way to cultivate new plants. Here's how:

1. Gently dig up a volunteer seedling when it's at least six inches tall, keeping its roots as intact as possible. Wetting the soil around it first can help to slide out the roots.
2. Choose a suitable growing site, and replant the seedling at the same depth it was previously growing.
3. Water to moisten the soil.

How to Grow Borage From Seed

Borage plants produce numerous black seeds that can be collected to plant the following spring. Simply shake the seeds from the flowers as the blooms degrade and store them in an airtight container. Then, once the weather has warmed in the spring, shake the seeds over the soil in your preferred growing site, and cover them with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil. Water to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy.

Potting and Repotting Borage

A well-draining, all-purpose potting mix will do for container-grown borage. The plant doesn't take well to transplanting, so plant them in a large container to make repotting unnecessary.

Overwintering

Borage is an annual that completes its life cycle in one season, so overwintering isn't a concern. It self-seeds very freely, so if you don't want lots of volunteer plants, it's best to pull the plants from the ground at the end of the season. Borage also rots easily, so it makes a great addition to compost heaps.

Common Pests and Plant Diseases

There are few pest or disease problems with borage. Powdery mildew can occur, especially in subpar growing conditions. To prevent the disease, make sure the plant has sufficient air circulation and that they are properly watered.

FAQ

• Borage is an easy-to-care-for plant in many different conditions, and it typically doesn't have issues with pests or diseases.

• Borage will mature about eight weeks after planting.

• Borage is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season. It does, however, self-seed very readily, so it may appear to be perennial.

• Borage is a somewhat rough, weedy-looking plant, but the true blue flowers are attractive enough to make the plant valuable for gardens with an informal, somewhat wild style.

• The toxins in borage are present in rather small concentrations, and digestive upset is likely only if you eat it daily and in large quantities. Fresh young leaves are often used in salads or as cooked greens, or as a garnish in drinks. The taste resembles that of cucumber.

• No. While this annual plant will readily self-seed in the garden, the tiny volunteers are not so plentiful that they pose a challenge to pluck out.

Article Sources

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

1. Borago Officinalis. North Carolina State Extension.

6 plants that can be planted with tomatoes in a greenhouse

The construction of greenhouses in summer cottages has become commonplace. This design will protect early crops from sudden temperature changes and strong winds. You can grow peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, raspberries and much more in them. It should be borne in mind that each vegetable needs different conditions.

Conditions for growing tomatoes in a greenhouse

In order for the tomato crop to please, you need to create greenhouse conditions with good lighting, regular ventilation, and moderate temperature. Do not forget about fertilizing and regular watering, which should be done under the root. Fertilize tomatoes with phosphorus and potassium. But fertilizing with nitrogen should not be too frequent, as it can lead to the accumulation of nitrates and the death of the ovaries.

As neighbors in the greenhouse for tomatoes, you need to choose vegetables that require similar care. In addition, cultures should be about the same height so that they do not obscure each other. Suitable plants are:

1. Basil.
2. Cabbage.
3. Garlic.
4. Pepper.
5. Strawberry.
6. Parsley.

Successful neighbors in the greenhouse for tomatoes

Planting tomatoes next to basil is a good option. This choice not only has a positive effect on taste, but also prevents the appearance of caterpillars. Both plants require good lighting, and are also not afraid of drafts.

Pepper will be no less successful neighbor for a tomato. However, it is worth considering that tomatoes love dry air, and peppers - wet. So that there are no problems during the growing process, it is recommended to plant them in a checkerboard pattern. The advantage of this combination will be the absence of aphids on pepper.

Planting cabbage next to tomatoes is also not a problem. On the contrary, such a neighborhood will help strengthen the tomatoes. And this applies not only to white cabbage, but also to Beijing.

The choice that falls on garlic is also not a problem. The combination will help to reap a good harvest from both crops. In addition, an infusion of garlic arrows is used to treat tomatoes from late blight.

Both strawberries and tomatoes do not tolerate excessive moisture, and also need regular ventilation. Planted plants, alternating with each other. At the same time, it is important that the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot for one strawberry bush is at least 30x20 centimeters.

Unpretentious parsley and other greens easily get along with any crops. Tomatoes are no exception.

Worst options

Poor choices can negatively affect yields for both crops. Therefore, the choice of company for tomatoes should not include dill, cucumbers, fennel, zucchini and pumpkin. Such plants can absorb nutrients needed by another vegetable, which will have a detrimental effect on their condition. In addition, plant care is significantly different. It simply will not work to create the necessary conditions in one greenhouse for both crops.

Growing vegetables is a painstaking task that requires a responsible approach and the study of relevant information. Many gardeners believe that experience comes with age. However, it takes a lot of time to acquire knowledge in this way. A more modern method has become the study of the necessary information on the Internet.

What to plant with a tomato? Good and bad companion plants for tomatoes. Photo - Botanichka

Like all living things, some plants are well compatible, while others do not get along well when planted together. Compatible plants usually provide some benefit to each other. For example, one plant may attract insects that will help pollinate another. The root systems of some plants also work well together. In this article, we will look at the combination of tomatoes with other plants. According to the observation of gardeners, planting tomatoes next to some crops brings additional benefits - it increases the strength of plant growth and the quality of fruits. And other companions, on the contrary, harm tomatoes.

Flowers compatible with tomatoes

Many beautifully flowering plants are insect repellants, so planting them near tomatoes helps reduce pest infestation. Calendula, also known as marigolds, usually repels many insects, such as worms that damage tomatoes. Marigolds also provide protection against insects: whiteflies, tomato worms, various beetles, cabbage moths and soil nematodes.

Although this combination may seem bizarre from a landscape design point of view, gardeners also note that tomatoes have a positive effect on rose bushes. Growing tomato next to roses has been observed to protect roses from black spot and other fungal infections. Tomato leaves contain a chemical that acts as an insecticide on certain insects that can attack the rose.

Strong smells of nasturtium and marigold confuse pests looking for their favorite food. In addition, their roots produce a nematode-repellent substance. There is evidence that nasturtiums are effective against whiteflies and cabbage moths, as well as against aphids and some beetles.

Cornflowers, kosmeya, goldenrod, asters and rudbeckia attract insects that provide additional pest control by preying on harmful insects.

What herbs go well with garden tomatoes?

We often use aromatic herbs to add spice to food, but many spices are also good companions for tomatoes. The classic combination of tomato and basil works both on the plate and in the garden. Basil is said to repel mosquitoes, flies, and tomato worms, as well as help attract beneficial insects to your garden.

While there is no scientific evidence for this, gardeners have observed that basil can also improve the flavor of tomato fruits and encourage more vigorous plant growth. The only way to test this claim is to try planting basil near the tomatoes in your garden. Especially since basil, as a rule, is shorter than tomatoes and will not shade them from the light. Borage (borage, borage) also provides protection for bushes from tomato worms.

Mint is not only a great tea ingredient and sedative, it also repels typical garden pests such as ants, mice and fleas. Mint is also effective against cabbage moth infections, and, among other things, increases the overall immunity of tomato bushes and improves the taste of fruits.

Fragrant mint can be planted next to tomatoes or used as a useful mulch for tomato beds. Lemon balm and monarda, which are close relatives of mint, attract pollinators that contribute to the pollination of tomatoes, and also improve the taste and growth of tomatoes.

Other herbs that grow well next to tomatoes are green onions and parsley. Parsley accelerates the growth of tomatoes and attracts predatory insects that feed on tomato worms. However, it should be borne in mind that parsley should not be planted next to mint, because these plants have a very negative effect on each other. Instead, you can plant parsley in the company of tomatoes and roses, since parsley also helps to enhance the aroma of the rose.

See also our article Mixed plantings - which crops should grow together?

Tomato compatible vegetables

Some vegetables are also compatible with tomatoes in the garden. Garlic and onion are among the most powerful insect repellent plants. And members of the Onion family are very good companions for tomatoes, especially effective against aphids, beetles and spider mites (particularly red spider mites).

An onion planted in a ring around a tomato patch protects plants from pests such as mites, slugs and earwigs and, where appropriate, repels marmots. Garlic prevents red spider mites from infesting tomatoes and is also effective against aphids on roses, making these crops suitable for garden trios.

Another popular trio for co-planting is garlic, basil and tomatoes, as garlic heads keep aphids, mites and nematodes away (and roses, by the way, protect against black spot). Broccoli also grows well alongside onions, garlic, and tomatoes, so consider planting them together.

Early carrots can also be planted next to tomatoes as the crop can be harvested before the tomato bushes grow and take up space. Although carrots do not prevent disease or repel insects, they are considered a friendly neighbor for tomatoes. Its deep roots loosen the soil around the tomatoes, so that water and nutrients, as well as air, circulate more easily around the tomato roots.

However, be aware that there is also evidence that proximity to tomatoes may stunt carrot growth, although root vegetables taste good. In addition to early carrots, spinach and leaf lettuce also contribute to the efficient use of space in tomato beds, since this is a crop that is harvested shortly after planting tomato seedlings.

Beans and peas are commonly combined with many crops because legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen. Planting asparagus between tomato plants provides asparagus protection from beetles. At the same time, the harvest from these plants is harvested at different times of the year, and their combination saves space in the garden. Asparagus appears in early spring, while tomatoes are planted in the garden much later.

Incompatible plants with tomatoes

Some plants cause harm to tomatoes when they grow nearby. Potatoes and tomatoes are members of the same nightshade family and are subject to the same diseases and infections, so they should grow as far apart as possible.

Corn is another plant that is not compatible with tomatoes as the worm infects both plants. Most members of the cruciferous family need a lot of nutrition and take a lot of nutrients out of the soil, and tomatoes are nutritionally deficient. Also, white cabbage inhibits the growth of tomatoes in general.

Some plants are simply not designed to coexist in the same place, and combining them can seriously slow down growth or increase the vulnerability of one or both plants to diseases and pests.

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