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Planting new flowers


When to Plant Flowers: Perennial, Annual, and Bulb Planting Guide

When do you plant flowers in the garden? It depends! Is it a perennial flower, annual flower, or bulb? Is it frost-sensitive or not? As with vegetables, there’s a right and a wrong time to plant your favorite flowers. See our When to Plant Flowers charts with information on when to start seeds and when transplant young plants outdoors.

Different plants need a different amount of lead time before they are ready to transplant into the garden. Starting too soon can result in a weak, lanky plant, while starting too late can give you one that is just not ready for the outside world—both will struggle to survive! Here’s what you should take into consideration before planting.

Know Your Frost Date

Before you even think of starting seeds, you need to know your area’s spring (and fall) frost dates. Planting schedules like the one below or our Vegetable Planting Calendar rely on frost dates to determine when it’s safest to ultimately plant outdoors, since young plants are more susceptible to a freeze.

Strong seedlings are one of the keys to a successful flower garden.

Perennial Flowers

Perennials are plants that are capable of surviving two or more years. While they may die back to the ground in winter, their roots survive underground and produce new foliage as the increased light and warmth of spring arrives. Most perennials will bloom in the same year that they are planted, while others may need to spend time becoming established first (particularly if planted later in the growing season). 

Start Seeds in the Spring

Some perennials can be challenging to start from seed, but most are fairly easy to grow and make for an inexpensive way to fill up a new flower bed. Some seeds will need a period of cold temperatures before they will germinate and may also take a longer time to germinate—3-4 weeks is not unusual—so they should be started earlier than others. Follow the instructions given on your seed packet.

Plant Mature Perennials in the Fall

If you’re planning on adding mature perennial plants (such as those bought from a nursery) to your garden, the best time to plant is in the fall. Plant them at least six weeks before your first fall frost date in order to give them time to settle in before winter. Roots will still grow while temperatures are in the 40s (Fahrenheit). Read all about planting and caring for perennials here!

When to Start Perennial Flower Seeds
Flower Start Seeds Indoors (Weeks Before Last Frost Date) Plant Outdoors
Anise Hyssop 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Asclepias (Milkweed) 10-12 weeks 1-2 weeks after last frost
Catmint 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Columbine 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Coreopsis 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Daisy 10-12 weeks 1-2 weeks before last frost
Delphinium (perennial) 10-12 weeks 1-2 weeks before last frost
Dianthus 10-12 weeks 1-2 weeks before last frost
Echinacea (Coneflower) 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Foxglove (Digitalis) 10-12 weeks 1-2 weeks after last frost
Gaillardia 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Helianthus 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Heliopsis 10-12 weeks 1-2 weeks after last frost
Hibiscus 8-10 weeks 1-2 weeks after last frost
Hollyhock 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Monarda (Bee Balm) 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Phlox (perennial) 10-12 weeks 1-2 weeks after last frost
Rudbeckia (Black-Eyed Susan) 8-10 weeks 1-2 weeks before last frost
Thyme 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Viola 8-10 weeks 1-2 weeks before last frost
Yarrow 8-10 weeks On last frost date

How Long Do Perennials Take to Grow?

8-10 Weeks

Many perennials take 8-10 weeks to reach a good size and can be transplanted on or after the last frost date:

Rudbeckia and violas are a little hardier and can go out in the garden 1-2 weeks before the last frost. Perennial hibiscus, on the other hand, need to wait 1-2 weeks after the frost free date has passed.

10-12 Weeks

Daisies, delphinium, and dianthus should be started 10-12 weeks ahead and can be planted out 1-2 weeks before the frost free date.

Asclepias, foxglove, heliopsis, and phlox take 10-12 weeks, but need to wait until after the last frost to be transplanted.

Zinnias are fast-growing annuals that can be started indoors or seeded directly in the garden.

Annual Flowers

Annuals are plants that sprout, grow, bloom, and go to seed all in one season and only for one season. When winter comes, the plant dies, relying on its many seeds to germinate in the following spring. Because of this, most annual flowers are easy to grow from seed, taking about 6-8 weeks to grow to a transplantable size, though there are always exceptions to the rule. Some seeds may just take longer to germinate and slower-growing annuals will need to be started earlier. (Be sure to read the backs of your seed packets for plant- and variety-specific recommendations!)

Since most annuals are frost tender, you’ll need to wait until after the last spring frost date to transplant them into your garden. Below, you’ll find a table listing common annuals, as well as when to start their seeds and when to plant them outdoors. Remember to harden plants off before setting them outside!

When to Start Annual Flower Seeds
Flower Start Seeds Indoors (Weeks Before Last Frost Date) Plant Outdoors
Allium 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Ageratum 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Alyssum 6-8 weeks 1-2 weeks before last frost
Aster 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Bachelor Button 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Calendula 6-8 weeks 1-2 weeks before last frost
Celosia 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Coleus 8-10 weeks 1-2 weeks after last frost
Cosmos 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Delphinium (annual) 6-8 weeks 1-2 weeks before last frost
Gomphrena 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Impatiens 8-10 weeks 1-2 weeks after last frost
Marigolds 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Morning Glory* 3-4 weeks After last frost
Nicotiana 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Petunia 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Phlox (annual) 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Salvia 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Scabiosa 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Snapdragon 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Statice 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Stock 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Strawflower 6-8 weeks On last frost date
Sunflower* 3-4 weeks 1-2 weeks after last frost
Verbena 8-10 weeks On last frost date
Zinnia* 4-6 weeks 1-2 weeks after last frost

*These fast-growing annuals are often started outdoors after the danger of frost has passed.

How Long Do Annuals Take to Grow?

3-6 Weeks

Speedy annuals such as morning glories and sunflowers may take only 3-4 weeks to reach a transplantable size. Zinnias only need a 4- to 6-week head start and can be transplanted outdoors after your last spring frost date. Alternatively, these fast-growing annuals can be directly sown in the garden after the danger of frost has passed.

6-8 Weeks

Annuals that take 6-8 weeks to grow and can go out when the frost free date arrives include:

Alyssum, calendula, and delphiniums also take about 6-8 weeks to grow, but these can go outside a little earlier: 1-2 weeks before the last frost.

8-10 Weeks

These annuals are slower to germinate and take 8-10 weeks to reach a good size for the garden. They can go out on the frost free date:

Coleus and impatiens also take 8-10 weeks but are little more tender and need to be transplanted a week or two after the last frost date.

Daffodils and other spring bulbs don’t bloom well when crowded.

Spring and Summer Bulbs

Planting bulbs is another lovely way to add seasonal pops of color to your garden. We divide bulbs into two main categories: spring-flowering bulbs and summer-flowering bulbs.

Generally speaking, spring-flowering bulbs should be planted in the fall (a few weeks before first frost), while summer-flowering bulbs should be planted in the spring (a few weeks after last frost). Why? In many cases, summer-flowering bulbs are not hardy enough to survive winter outdoors, while spring-flowering bulbs may actually need a period of colder weather to trigger their spring blooms. There are exceptions, of course! Hardy perennials that flower in the summer, like daylilies, can be planted in the spring or fall.

What Makes a Bulb a Bulb?

Not all “bulbs” are actually bulbs! A true bulb is a specific type of underground storage structure—think onions, tulips, and daffodils. Many popular “bulbs” are actually other types of structures, like corms (gladiolus), rhizomes (irises, daylilies), and tubers (dahlias). However, most gardeners simply refer to this entire category of plants as “bulbs” to make things a little easier!

*This hardy perennial may be planted in the spring or fall.

Caring for Bulbs

Wait until spring-flowering bulbs have finished blooming and their foliage has died back before digging, dividing, or moving them around. Mark their locations with brightly-colored popsicle sticks so you can find them more easily in late summer or early fall, which is the time to divide and transplant. Read more about spring-flowering bulbs.

Fall is also the time to dig up summer-flowering bulbs that need to be stored inside for winter. Read more about growing summer-flowering bulbs here!

What flowers will you grow next season? Let us know in the comments!

How to Plant Flowers - A Guide to Starting Your Garden

Weeding and watering—though necessary garden chores—are definitely not as enjoyable as choosing flowers and putting them in the ground. Planting flowers is one of the true joys of gardening! (And it couldn't be easier, even for beginners.) There’s also something soothing about walking around the garden every day to observe your plants and all the pretty, little pollinators doing their jobs.

To get the most bang for your buck when planting flowers, make sure you know what you’re buying. Annuals last one season and provide bright pops of color right away all season long until frost. Perennials bloom for just a few weeks early, mid, or late season and typically return year after year. Read the plant tag or description: It tells you what kind of plant it is as well as how much sunlight the flower needs. Full sun is considered 6 or more hours of direct sunlight, while part sun is about half that. If you choose perennials, pay attention to the USDA Hardiness Zones (check yours here) to be sure the plant can survive winters in your climate.

Timing is key fo planting: For most flowers, you'll want to wait until after the last frost of the season to plant, although there are a few types, such as snap dragons and violas, that will handle cooler temperatures.

Here’s how to plant flowers that will brighten your garden now and for years to come:

Prep your beds or pots.

If you’re adding flowers to a garden bed, dig out the area ahead of time. Mix in some compost to improve the soil structure. Pull weeds now so they won’t compete for water and nutrients with the plants you do want! If you’re planting in containers for your patio, deck or balcony, fill to within an inch or two of the rim with potting mix (not garden soil, which isn’t the same thing). For mixed containers, choose one type of plant that’s tall, such as marigolds or daisies to provide vertical interest, something to fill out the pot such as calibrachoas or petunias, and something to spill over the edges, such as sweet potato vine or fan flowers.

Pay attention to plant size.

The plant tag or description will tell you how tall and wide a plant is expected to get under ideal conditions. Don’t ignore it! If you’re planting in beds, you want to put the tallest flowers, such as zinnia or salvia, in back, with sprawling flowers or groundcovers, such as sweet alyssum or portulaca, in front.

NurPhoto//Getty Images

Choose healthy plants.

If shopping at a nursery, look for plants that appear strong and green, not wilted, brown or already scraggly. If the pots are bone-dry, avoid them because the plants likely are already stressed.

Give your plant a good start.

Dig a hole about twice the size of the root ball. If you have a multi-pack of flowers, squeeze each individual cell to loosen it up a bit. Then tilt the pack on its side, allowing each plant to slip out of its section into your hand. If you need to coax it, that’s fine, too. Lift the plant by the stem, not the top, and set in the hole at the same depth it was in the pot. You also can rough up the roots (gently!) with your fingers a bit to help them start spreading out into the hole because roots often are matted and circled inside the pot when you buy them. Replace the soil around the plant in the hole, tamp it lightly, and water thoroughly.

Pay attention to planting times for seeds.

If you’re planting seeds, read the package to see how deep to plant them. It’s often surprisingly shallow, perhaps as little as a ¼ inch. And pay attention to the “days to maturity” listed on the package as well. For example, if a flower takes 80 days to mature and it’s already the end of June, it may be too late to plant from seed in some climates. You’ll spend all summer watching your plant grow but never bloom, only to get taken out by the first frost!

Mulch your new plantings.

It may seem like an unnecessary step, but mulch (even in a container) will reduce evaporation so you may be able to water less frequently. It will also keep down weeds and decompose over time, improving soil structure.

picture alliance//Getty Images

Don’t forget to water.

Most annual and perennial flowers need a couple of inches of moisture per week to thrive. But use common sense: If it’s rained, you probably don’t need to water! If you stick your finger in a pot and it’s dry, it’s time to give it a drink. Most plants prefer long, deep watering until water runs out of the bottom of the pot. In spring, with frequent rains, expect to water pots and beds a few times a week. In the summer, you’ll probably need to water daily. By fall, the growing season is ending so water a couple of times a week during dry spells.

What You Need to Plant Flowers
Gardening Glove

$15 at Home Depot

Hand Transplanter

$11 at Home Depot$8 at Walmart

2-gallon Watering Can

$5 at Home Depot

12" Plastic Flower Pot

$6 at Home Depot

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Autumn planting and replanting of perennial flowers

Flowers are the main decoration of any site. Without their bright flowering, everything around would look monotonous and dull. Planting flowering plants on their plots, gardeners give a clear preference to a variety of perennials.

This is understandable. They can grow in one place for a long time, without requiring a large annual investment of time and labor to buy seeds, sow and grow seedlings, and plant them in flower beds, as happens with annual crops.

All perennial flowers are divided into two large groups: wintering (tolerating severe frosts that prevail in most of our country in winter) and non-wintering (heat-loving and therefore need annual autumn digging and special storage until next spring).

The second group includes flowers such as dahlias, gladioli and most bulbs. We will talk about them in a separate article.

Today we will talk about planting, transplanting and dividing perennial wintering rhizomatous flowers.

PECULIARITIES OF TRANSFER OF PERENNIAL FLOWERS

Having planted some beautiful luxuriantly blooming perennial flower, every year you admire its wondrous beauty. But after some time you notice that its flowers become smaller, and their number decreases sharply.

Bushes begin to grow along the edges, and thin out in the center. This suggests that the plant needs to be rejuvenated and planted so that it looks fresh and beautiful again.

The fact is that a few years after planting, the perennial root system begins to grow rapidly in all directions, including upwards. Separate roots come to the surface of the earth, concentrating in the center of a bush or curtain.

The nutrition of the whole plant is disturbed. Dead parts interfere with the development of young shoots, and they tend to "leave" in different directions. This suggests that it is urgent to divide the bush and transplant its individual parts to another place.

However, one should not overdo it here either, because not all perennials need a transplant. For example, plants with taproots ( aquilegia, spurge, lupine, bluebell, poppy and others). They do not tolerate division very well. They are propagated by seeds, layering or cuttings.

Also try not to divide rudbeckia and carnations . They are well propagated by cuttings.

Determining whether a given plant needs rejuvenation is very simple. Look at the center of the bush. If he is decently bald, then the old roots are no longer working, and it's time to plant new side shoots.

Perennial flowers are usually divided every five years. But you should not immediately "ruin" the entire flowering flower bed. It is enough to carry out this operation every year for three to four plants. Then it will not violate the decorativeness of your flower garden.

The division of perennial flowers is carried out either in spring, before they grow green leaves, or in August-early September, when the plants still have time to take root well and prepare for winter.

In the spring, plants are divided, the flowering of which ends in autumn, when they simply do not have time to take root in a new place. At the end of summer, those that bloom early are seated.

The most common perennial flowers planted and planted from mid-August to mid-September: astilbe, brunner, herbaceous peony, phlox, irises, delphinium, lupine, hosta, clematis.

All these plants tolerate transplanting very well and are not afraid of severe frosts. By the way, plants planted before winter have increased immunity to all fungal and infectious diseases!

They seem to go through a natural stratification and grow faster and begin to bloom in spring.

The timing of dividing and transplanting perennial flowers usually coincides with the timing of planting new varieties of this species.

HOW TO DIVIDE PERMANENT FLOWERS

This operation is best done on overcast days. The day before transplanting, the bushes should be well watered so that they experience less stress.

Planting holes filled with fertilizer should already be prepared. They can be made in new flower beds, or you can expand the old flower garden by adding potassium-phosphorus fertilizers and ash to the nutrient soil (nitrogen fertilizers are no longer applied in August so as not to provoke an active growth of green mass).

Then they start digging up the plants to be planted. The main thing is not to damage the overgrown roots. The perennial bush is carefully dug up from all sides and carefully removed from the ground.

Then the roots are well shaken off, all dead and rotted ones are removed and the bush is divided into several parts (from 3 to 5 depending on the size of the root system) with a sharp pruner or shovel (large bushes). To obtain strong plants, the division must be small. But then it will bloom only in two years.

Before starting to divide, separate the roots with your hands, marking the places where you will cut. Remember that each new plant should have at least three stems. Before planting, cut the roots slightly and dip in a weak solution of potassium permanganate so as not to infect.

Then proceed to landing in a permanent place. Water the planted plants well, and mulch the ground around them with straw or freshly cut grass.

If the weather is hot, cover the young bushes with paper, an old sheet or non-woven covering material.

The planting of new plants is carried out in the same way. It is important to complete this operation before September 20, and in the northern regions - before September 7-10. It is already risky to do this later, as early colds can destroy young plants.

AUTUMN PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTATION OF PERMANENT FLOWERS BY CROPS

Astilba. Details on how to grow astilbe on your site and its best varieties, we have already written in article “How to grow astilbe.

This plant can easily bloom in one place without replanting for at least 5 years. The best time for its division is the end of September, immediately after the end of flowering. The plant is very moisture-loving, so it is often used to drain shady areas of the garden.

Peonies. For more information about planting and caring for peonies, see our article Planting and caring for peonies.

Peonies will grow in one place for a very long time, but they need to be planted every five years. This operation must be carried out from August 15 to September 5. Later, the plants may not take root. The same goes for landing.

Before digging, the stems of plants are cut by a third, and then they carefully dig in from all sides and carefully remove them from the ground. The rhizome is washed well in water, and then divided into parts with a sharp shovel so that 4-5 buds remain on each division.

When planting, it is very important not to bury the top bud into the ground. It should be no more than 1 cm below the ground, otherwise the bush will not bloom.

Irises. Read more about how to grow these perennial flowers in our article "Irises: planting and care in the open field. "

The best time for planting and transplanting irises is late August - early September. These plants should be divided and planted at least once every four years. Otherwise, their powerful roots will go deep into the ground, and the sprouts formed on them simply will not be able to bloom.

Phlox. Read more about these flowers in our article “How to care for phlox. New varieties» .

It is best to plant, divide and transplant phloxes at the end of September, when they have formed renewal buds. The plant tolerates division and transplantation very easily.

Phlox bushes need to be divided once every five years, otherwise they will become bare in the center and begin to grow in different directions, losing their original
flowering splendor.

The stems of phloxes are quite tender, and the roots are easily separated, so the operation is best done by hand, without the use of any cutting tool. Each division must have at least three stems with leaves.

Host. We have already told in detail about planting and caring for this wonderful plant in our article "How to plant a hosta in a flower garden" .

In general, the host does not like transplantation very much and tolerates it rather hard. Therefore, this operation should be performed only as a last resort, for example, if the plant is old and heavily thickened.

That is why the initial landing should be carried out already at a permanent place.

Dividing and replanting the hosta is best from 25 August to 7 September. It is better not to carry out this operation later, since the host needs at least a month to grow new roots. When choosing a place for plants, remember that she does not tolerate direct sunlight and prefers partial shade or weak diffused light.

Clematis. Learn how to plant and care for clematis in our article "How to Grow Clematis".

This beautiful perennial can be planted and transplanted from 30 August to 25 September. This should not be done before, because if the weather is hot enough, the plant will quickly take root and begin to give new shoots, which is unacceptable, given the approaching cold.

It is better to propagate clematis not by dividing the roots, but by cuttings and layering.

We talked about planting and transplanting the most popular perennial flowers. In autumn, they plant and transplant such well-known plants as Brunner, daylilies, delphinium, adonis, dicentra and many others.

These perennial flowers are planted and transplanted every 4-5 years from 15 August to 20 September.

The best varieties of all the perennial flowers listed above can be purchased from us. It's almost time for them to land!

Planting trees and plants on the plots.

ArtGreen specialists will plant plants in areas of any complexity: from private sectors to large municipal facilities.
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We offer a professional approach to the improvement of your site, and a qualified team will carry out the task as soon as possible.
For more information about the services, as well as their costs, you can find in the section "Costs and tariffs"

Features of choosing plants for the site

When choosing plants for your site, you should pay attention not only to the appearance, but also to the requirements, that plants need for normal life. Different groups of plants have individual attitudes towards light, moisture, soil, frost and gas contamination. If these requirements are not taken into account when planting, plants may lose their decorative effect or even die. In addition, all plants differ in strength of growth, width and shape of the crown, seasonal color of leaves, flowers and needles. In landscape design, there are certain rules for composing and placing plants, using which you can achieve the maximum effect of naturalness when creating an artificial landscape. From a wide variety of plants presented on the trading floors of the ArtGreen company, you can easily select the best types and varieties of plants that are suitable for your site.

Preparing the planting sites

Once you have acquired the right plants, you can start planting them. But even here there are nuances. Before the trees and shrubs you bought are delivered to the site, it is necessary to prepare planting pits and trenches in accordance with the dendroplan and layout planting plan. For the normal growth and development of trees and shrubs, compliance with the technology of preparing seats and planting is of great importance. For trees aged 5 to 10 years, pits are prepared with a depth of 0.8-1.0 m and a width of 1-1.2 m in diameter. For very large trees, the depth of the pit is increased to 1.5 m with a diameter of 2-3 m. For single-row and double-row hedges, the width of the trench should be 0.6 m with the addition of 0.2 m for each subsequent row. Round pits are prepared for single trees and shrubs. The walls of the pits are made sheer, and the bottom is loosened with bayonet shovels to a depth of 0.10-0.15 m, removing the earth in layers. The upper, most fertile land is folded separately. Before planting, the pit is filled up in such a way that the top humus layer falls to the bottom. If the site is dominated by clogged soils, they should be replaced with specially brought fertile land.

Fertilization


If the soil at the planting sites is poor, a handful of mineral fertilizers can be poured into the bottom of the planting pit, evenly scattering them around the plant and mixing with the soil being poured. It is important not to exceed the applied dose, because. an overdose can weaken the plant's rooting process in new soil or cause root system burns. If the soil is fertile, fertilizing during planting is not recommended.

If boarding is delayed

The seedlings brought to the planting site are planted immediately in a permanent place. If for some reason planting needs to be postponed for several hours or days, then the roots of seedlings with an open root system must be protected from drying out and weathering. To do this, they are added dropwise in a vertical or inclined position, carefully filling the root part with earth to a height of at least 25 cm in a specially prepared trench up to 60 cm deep and up to 50 cm wide.

Planting dates

(after the soil thaws until the leaves begin to bloom) and autumn (from the beginning of mass leaf fall, after which the trees stop growing, until the onset of frost). Winter is the best time to plant large trees when they are dormant. Transplanting at this time of the year is relatively painless and allows you to avoid stressful consequences and improve plant survival. The air temperature during planting of large-sized plants should not be lower than -10°C. At lower temperatures, the wood becomes very brittle and breaks easily. Modern technologies of container cultivation of planting material have significantly extended the time of planting. Tree and shrub seedlings in containers can now be planted almost all year round, even in summer (except during periods of extreme heat and drought).

Planting process

Immediately before planting, the plant is carefully removed from the container so as not to damage the clod and roots. If the plant is not taken out, then the container is cut, or by turning it over and lightly tapping on it, the plant is released. Seedlings are carefully inspected and carefully cut long, damaged or twisted into a thick ball of roots with a sharp pruner to facilitate their penetration into the ground and stimulate the formation of new lateral roots. In deciduous seedlings with an open root system, the crown is partially pruned to reduce the evaporating surface of the leaves in the first growing season after planting. Before planting, a very dry lump of a container plant must be lowered into water for several minutes so that it is well saturated with moisture. Plants with a large lump are transferred to the planting site with extreme care so as not to damage the lump. The mesh or burlap protecting the lump is not removed after planting.

A small depression is made in the soil poured into the planting hole, where the straightened roots or seedlings are lowered. Then they fill it with fertile Krankenkasse soil, which is gradually rammed as it is backfilled so that voids do not form near the roots of the plant.

Trees are planted in such a way that the root neck after the ground has settled is somewhat (3-5 cm) higher than the edges of the pit.

For planting shrubs, dig a hole according to the size of the root system of the seedling so deep that the root collar is at the level of the soil surface.

When gardening a hedge, seedlings are planted simultaneously in all rows, alternately filling them in each row and observing certain distances. Between plants when planting a single-row hedge, the distance should be 25-30 cm, and with two- and multi-row hedges - 30-50 cm, and between rows - 20-30 cm. Multi-row planting is usually done in a checkerboard pattern. So that tree seedlings grow even and do not suffer from strong winds, supports are used when planting.

It is best to use straight and smooth maple, birch or pine planting stakes. They should be straight and smooth, measuring 2200 x 60 mm. Seedlings with an open root system are tied to a support driven vertically into the planting hole before planting. Plants with a closed root system are tied to stakes driven into the ground at an angle, outside the root ball. Large trees are fixed in the ground with the help of a structure of three stakes - “tripods”. For tying, soft materials are used: a rope made of coconut fiber or hemp. The leash is arranged in a figure eight, and the tree trunk at the tie point is wrapped with soft material to avoid cutting the bark.

To ensure water retention during irrigation, after planting, holes are made around the seedlings with sides up to 15 cm high and 1-2 m in diameter. Also, to preserve moisture in the root layer of plants, mulching near-stem holes 5-8 cm with a layer of humus, peat, sawdust is used , gravel or crushed bark of conifers.

Immediately after planting, seedlings are watered at the rate of 25 liters of water per specialist tree and 12 liters per shrub, regardless of soil moisture and weather. This contributes to a better fit of Azubis soil to the roots and enhance their ability to absorb soil moisture.

As you noticed, despite all the seeming simplicity, planting Businesses trees and shrubs is a rather laborious process that requires certain knowledge, skills and time, which, as always, is not enough. Therefore, many owners of suburban areas often resort to the services of specialized companies.

If you are unable to plant plants yourself, or you are not given time limits to garden, order our services. For a low price, you will receive high-class service, high-quality planting material and a special approach to each plant we plant. We have everything you need to plant trees and shrubs: special equipment, suitable vehicles, special soils and soil mixtures, growth stimulants, fertilizers, and most importantly, experienced dendrologists and gardeners who know the characteristics of each species. Our many years of experience shows that after planting plants by the specialists of our company, their survival rate is more than 95%.

Planting is a crucial step in landscaping. The survival rate of plants, their further growth and decorativeness depend on the quality of planting by 50%. If you are new to gardening, or not well versed in this matter, entrust the planting to professionals, saving yourself from worrying about the future of your plants. Experienced specialists of the ArtGreen company will plant trees and shrubs, taking into account the soil and climatic features of the territory, in compliance with all agrotechnical requirements, using the necessary materials, fertilizers and stimulants of the best brands. After planting, we will give recommendations for further care, help in choosing fertilizers, soils, mulch.

How to plant a tree correctly

Planting seedlings of deciduous and coniferous trees begins with a dendrological plan or planting scheme. Competent landscape design will determine the most comfortable zones for the development of different types of plants. The dendroplan is included in the working documentation of the landscape project and reflects the location of the compositions, the placement of plants on the site, their species composition, the number and distances between them.

The planting process can be roughly divided into the following steps:

The main purpose of proper planting is to minimize stress on plants and create favorable conditions for their further growth. ArtGreen specialists use many years of proven planting skills, observe planting dates and technologies, as evidenced by high results - almost 100% survival rate at the sites.

Peculiarities of tree planting

Depending on the type and age of plants, as well as the method of their cultivation, planting agrotechnics depends. However, there are some general rules for all breeds:

OKS and ZKS . All coniferous trees and shrubs are planted only with a closed root system (ZKS) - containers or dug with a clod of earth. Young seedlings of deciduous trees and shrubs, as a budget option, are planted with an open root system (ACS). Deciduous trees older than three years and adult shrubs are planted with a closed root system (digged with a lump or in containers).

Landing dates. For plants with an open root system (OCS) and dug with a clod of earth - this is early spring before bud break and autumn, 2-3 weeks before the onset of stable cold weather. Container crops are planted regardless of the season. The main condition is quality care and regular watering. Planting of adult trees and shrubs (large-sized) is carried out in late autumn - in winter, when the root ball freezes.

Landing hole. Should be spacious, 1.5-2 times larger than the ball or diameter of the root system of OKS seedlings. This will ensure unhindered penetration of the roots into the upper and lower layers of the soil, respectively, rapid survival and good development of the seedling. Recommended sizes of planting pits for seedlings of OKS: diameter 0.7-1 m, depth 0.7-0.8 m. For young trees above 2 m container or with a clod of earth: diameter 0.8-1 m, depth 0.6 -0.8 m

The root collar of the seedling must not be buried, after planting it should be 3-6 cm above ground level.

Planting mix is poured in layers around the seedling, being sure to compact it so that there are no air voids.

Reinforcement. Seedlings up to 2 m high are tied with a figure eight to a stake, and trees above 2 m are strengthened with stakes installed outside the seat and stretch marks. This procedure is important for better plant survival. With the help of fasteners, the tree is fixed in an upright position and minimizes its swinging, which contributes to rapid rooting.

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