Home » Misc » Planting fruit trees in backyard

Planting fruit trees in backyard


How to Plant Fruit Trees in Your Backyard

 

Our website is now open for orders that will ship January, February & March 2023.

  1. Dig a hole at least wide enough for the roots of your tree so that none of them are bent. Make it deep enough for the tree's roots to be completely covered. A wider hole is better, if possible, since that will make it easier for the tree to grow.
  2. Chip away at the sides of your hole to break any compacted soil - this will make it easier for your tree's roots to grow beyond the initial hole.
  3. Most bare root trees from Bay Laurel Nursery do not need to be staked. But if yours does, use at least a five or six foot garden stake hammered about two feet into the bottom of the hole a little off center on the southern side, if possible.
  4. Make a mound of soil a few inches high in the bottom of the hole with what you dug out. Pat the soil down.
  5. Carefully place your fruit tree into the hole, centered on the mound and spreading its roots. The tree has a graft union (sometimes called a bud union) visible where the root stock is grafted to the trunk. This should be placed slightly above the existing ground level. It is better to plant a little high than low since trees often settle.
  6. Amending the soil with nutrients may be necessary.  However, it is better not to overdo it since doing so will create an artificial environment for the tree that in the long run will stunt growth. Check with your local garden center and buy whatever amendment is recommended for your soil. DO NOT USE REDWOOD COMPOST OR MANURE AS THEY MAY CAUSE BURNING. Many garden centers now promote organic gardening, so  it should be easy to find one in your area that can help you to produce fruit that is grown without harmful chemicals.
  7. Start filling in the excavated soil that you have amended into the hole, carefully covering over just the roots. Gently pat down the soil a little and then water to help the soil settle around the roots.
  8. Continue adding layers of soil, repeating the process of patting it down slightly and watering to help the soil settle and fill in any air holes. Fill in up to the original ground level.
  9. Use any leftover soil to build a raised circle around the tree to keep water in. Ideally, the circle should be about four feet in diameter. Placing organic material such as leaves, mulch or bark inside the circle can help protect the tree's roots and help with water retention.  Make sure that you keep any mulch away from the trunk of the tree.
  10. Overwatering before leafing out is the biggest cause of tree failure!  While the trees are dormant, they are using no water, so it is very important to not water them any more than is absolutely necessary to prevent the roots from drying out.

 

How To Plant Fruit Trees

Planting fruit trees is one of the best things you can do on your homestead.   They take minimal care once they get established and will produce year after year.  Even if you have a very small space you can still plant dwarf trees or grow espaliered trees in pots.  If you have more space, fruit trees can become integral parts of a productive food forest.  No matter who you are, you need to plant fruit trees!

What Fruit Trees Should You Grow?

Find Your Zone

The first step before you plant your fruit trees is planning.  There are a few vital pieces of information you will need to know.  First, what is your zone?  If you have already taken my free gardening course, you will know what gardening zone you are in.  If not, you can find it here. The garden zone you live in will determine what types and varieties of fruit tress you will be able to plant.  If you live in a very cold snowy area, citrus is not a good tree for you.  Likewise, if you live in an area that does not get any frost days, apples may not be the best for you. If you live in a cold area, check out Sustainable Homesteading’s article on cold hardy fruits and vines for ideas on what to plant.   Even if you get into the negative forties, there will still be SOMETHING you can grow! If you live in a hot area, which varieties you pick will depend on things such as the PH of your soil, and how cold your winters get.  Even in the desert you can grow pomegranates and figs.  There really are fruit trees for every climate.

How Much Sun Do You Get?

Almost all fruit trees need full sun.  There are a few that are understory trees that will do okay in the shade, such as the paw paw.   However, if you are really invested in a bumper crop of fruit, you’ll want to find a spot to plant them where they receive at least six hours of sun each day. If you have partial shade, go with plums and pears or sour cherries for your trees.  You can also add bushes such as currants and gooseberries. Pay attention to where on your property you get full sun and which spots are partial shade.  You may find that a location gets plenty of sun in the morning or afternoon, but not a full six hours throughout the day. It’s a good idea to go outside and watch the pattern of the sun in your yard throughout the day and during different seasons before deciding where you want to plant your trees. If you have more shade than sun, don’t despair!  Here is a list of some great plants to put in those shady spots.

Where To Plant Fruit Trees In Your Yard?

In addition to sun, you also need to consider a few more things If it’s by a building, pick a tree with shallower roots that won’t interfere with the foundation.  If your sunny spot is near a fence line, how does your neighbor feel about fruit dropping on their side of the fence? A good way to grow fruit along a fence is by a special kind of pruning called espalier.  Here are directions on how to do it.  Another good resource on how to espalier, as well as lots of other information is Pruning Made Easy by Lewis Hill.  It’s a great resource for learning how to prune just about everything. Also, make sure you know where any underground utilities are located on your property.   Most cities have a number you can call to find out where gas lines and other pipes are.  In Portland, it’s 311.  In San Antonio, it’s 811.  So chances are yours is something-one-one too. 😉 Not only do you want to make sure you don’t break anything when you dig your hole, you also want to make sure that you aren’t setting yourself up for an expensive repair later if tree roots invade something like your sewer line! And don’t worry if you can’t plant fruit trees in your backyard.  Front yards are great places for gardens too!  Fruit trees can be both attractive and useful.

How Far Apart To Plant Fruit Trees?

One of the most common mistakes in planting fruit trees is planting them too close together.  I’m totally guilty of this.  It’s very tempting when placing those tiny little trees to forget that they will grow much, much bigger! Each variety of fruit has different adult sizes.  Citrus for example, needs 12-25 feet between standard size trees.  (The bigger the fruit, the more space they need. )  Sweet cherries and apples may need as much as 30 feet.  Peaches and pears need about 20. If you don’t have enough room for two trees, you can plant semi-dwarf or dwarf trees instead.  Semi-dwarf citrus trees only need 6-10 feet between them.  Other semi-dwarf fruit trees need 12-15 feet apart and dwarf trees will do fine with only about 8-10 feet between them. If you are really short on space, you can choose self-pollinating fruit tree varieties, where different varieties of one fruit are grafted onto the same root system.  We had a couple self-pollinating dwarf fruit trees on our tiny Portland homestead.  We also had two columnar apple trees in a side yard that took very little space. Another alternative is planting different fruit trees together.  I have never tried it, but it is possible to plant multiple trees together in the same hole.  Check out Multi-Planting Strategies from Dave Wilson for more details.

How Fruit Trees Pollinate

The reason you must have two fruit trees, or at the very least a self pollinating variety is because you won’t get any fruit if you don’t! When your fruit trees bloom, pollen is transferred from the male part of the plant to the stigma, the female part of the flower. Because many fruit trees are grown from grafts, they are actually clones of each other.  Some fruit trees require pollen from a completely different variety of the same fruit in order to produce, pollen from their genetic clone just won’t do! Just having two different varieties won’t guarantee a good crop though.  The trees need to flower at the same time, and then the pollen actually needs to get from one blossom to the other. Trees can be pollinated via humans, the wind, and insects, but the most common method is by honeybees.  If your trees are flowering each year, but you don’t get a crop, you may need more honeybees!  If you are thinking about raising your own bees, here are four books to get you started.

Once you have a good understanding of your growing climate, amount of sun, available space, and number of trees needed, you can pick out what varieties of trees will grow best for you.

What Is The Best Time Of Year To Plant Fruit Trees?

Now that you have a better idea of WHAT to plant, it’s time to find out WHEN to plant! There are two ideal times to plant bare root fruit trees.   They should either be planted in the spring or in the fall when the tree is dormant. If you live in zone 8a or above, planting in the fall is a good idea because the tree can get settled in before spring and has more growing time. However, if you get freezing temperatures it can damage the trees.   So if you are in zone 7a or 7b you should pay attention to the weather before deciding to plant in the fall. If you are in a colder zone, it’s best to wait until spring to plant your fruit trees.  It’s more work for the tree to establish their roots and new growth at the same time, but there isn’t the risk of them dying of frost.  If you plant in the spring, be extra diligent about watering as your tree gets established.

How To Plant Fruit Trees

Once you have your tree, a great location on your property, and the right time of year, it’s time to plant!  Wohoo! Now all you have to do is dig a hole and stick a tree in it and BAM you’re done!  Just kidding.  Sort of. Definitely dig a hole, though.   Dig a big hole, about twice as wide and deep as the roots of your baby tree. I like to fill the hole with water and then wait until it all drains.  This make sure there’s plenty of water available to the roots.  I’ve skipped this step before, and I have found when I do, the trees don’t get quite as well established as quickly. You can add compost or any other nutritional amendments appropriate to your area to the bottom of the hole. Backfill some of the dirt you just dug out.  Now it’s nice and fluffy, which makes it easier for the new roots to get established. Place your tree into the hole, but make sure that the graft is above the soil line.  Now fill the hole with the dirt.  If there’s extra dirt, you can create a moat around the tree to hold in water.  Fill that moat with water, and let it soak into the soil.

Tada!  Now you’ve planted your fruit tree!

Plant a fruit tree guild

Now, trees are much happier with friends, so now is a good time to add any plants that will make up your fruit tree guild.   Fruiting shrubs are nice, so are beneficial plants such as chives, clover, comfrey,  and herbs.  Despite their reputation as weeds, dandelions are a good choice too. It’s also a good idea to include bulbs around the drip line of the tree to discourage grass.  Daffodils, irises and egyptian walking onions can be good for this. When creating a guild look for plants that attract pollinators, discourage pests, create a weed barrier, increase fertility, or are useful to you for food or medicine.  Here is a list of a few of my favorite plants that bees love. Which plants you choose for your fruit tree guild will depend on your specific needs and location.  For more information on fruit tree guilds, check out the book The Suburban Microfarm, or read this article from the author’s website.

And for even more information on starting a fruit tree guild, check out these posts:

Add mulch

After your fruit tree and any other plants have been planted, make sure to add mulch around it.   Don’t pile the mulch up close to the trunk.  Instead, spread the mulch all the way to the drip line of the tree.  This will kill grass and break down and provide nutrients to your new fruit tree. If you use chipped wood, it creates a hospitable environment for fungus, and trees thrive when connected to each other through a fungal network.  You can use other material such as straw, but it breaks down much more quickly.  Wood chips also hold in moisture, meaning your tree will need less frequent watering. (For more information on using straw mulch in the garden, click here). Using bark mulch will also improve the quality of your soil.  Here are some more ideas on improving poor soil.  The book The Art of Gardening: Building Your Soil is also a good resource.

Prune your newly planted tree

Pruning your tree at planting time will help the tree get off to a good start.  You only need to prune it if it is bare root at planting time.  It can be hard, but it will help you have a better harvest. Trim off any jagged or broken roots, then cut back the top so that the tree is roughly equal to the size of the roots.  If it’s just one small trunk with no side branches, cut it down about a third in height.  If there are branches, cut off any broken or dead ones, and cut the others down by one third. Make sure to cut near buds that are pointing towards the outside, so the new branches will grow in the right direction.  If you’re feeling nervous about pruning, I do highly recommend getting a copy of Pruning Made Easy.  I’ve checked it out periodically from my library, but it’s a good one to have on hand.

How Long Does It Take A Fruit Tree To Bear Fruit?

Planting fruit trees is the easy part.  Waiting for that delicious fruit is much harder!  Do you really have to wait ten years to get a harvest?  Thankfully, not! Will you pick a bumper crop of fruit off your tree in it’s first season?  Unfortunately, no, although you may get a small crop that first year! The benefit of planting fruit trees instead of growing them from seed is that you will get your first crop even sooner, even though it may be more expensive to buy young trees. There are a few trees that will start producing in just a couple years.  Peaches, nectarines, apricots, and apples may fruit in as little as two years, although it will take longer to get a bumper crop.  Citrus can also produce a crop as early as two years after being planted. These fruit trees will all produce fruit the fastest, even though you will still have to wait a year or two after planting. Cherries, plums, figs and persimmons can have their first crop in as few as three years, although it may be up to five.   Plums and pears can be up to four years before they start fruiting. By planting fruit trees grafted onto vigorous root stock, it dramatically reduces the amount of time it takes before your first harvest.  If you were growing trees from seed, it could take 5-10 years before they start to bear fruit.

There’s a saying that goes the best time to plant a fruit tree is ten years ago.  The next best time to plant a fruit tree is right now.  Now that you know how to plant fruit trees, go plant!

Sources: How To Plant Fruit Trees by Homestead Honey How To Grow Apple Trees On Your Homestead by 15 Acre Homestead Fall Planting vs Spring Planting For Bare-Root Fruit Trees by Orange Pippin Fruit Trees Planting Fruit Trees In The Fall by The Herbal Academy How To Plant Fruit Trees In Your Backyard by Bay Laurel Nursery Planting a Homestead Orchard With Dwarf Fruit Trees by Pampered Chicken Mama Fruit Trees: Planting and Care of Young Trees by University of California All About Growing Fruit Trees from Mother Earth News

Want To Raise Happy Chickens?

Subscribe for our newsletter and get the free email course Intro To Backyard Chickens as well as a free printable checklist to walk you through step by step!

Powered by ConvertKit

How to plant fruit trees on your site?

The optimal time for planting seedlings in central Russia: in spring - from the moment the soil freezes to the beginning of bud break. Usually from April 1-10 to May 1.

Autumn We recommend planting from 1 to 20 October. If you haven't planted seedlings until October 20, then they must be dug in for the winter and planted on permanent place next spring, as soon as the soil thaws. But at the same time try preparing the planting holes in the fall. nine0003

Planting site

Fruit trees should not be placed in low places with excessive soil moisture. Prolonged and frequent waterlogging of the soil in the zone roots cause plant death. When planting trees in the garden it is necessary to take into account the level of groundwater in the area. If ground water is at a distance of 1 m from ground level, it is necessary refrain from planting all fruit trees.

Cherry and apricot and cherry are demanding on heat, but put up with a lack of moisture, they are placed on the highest and well-heated part of the site.

Apples and pears also grow best in higher ground.

Plums more moisture-loving, and if there is a slope, it is better to place them in its lower parts, because on poor and dry soils they grow and bear fruit bad.

Preparing seedlings for planting

Pruning seedlings (except seedlings in a container). For better survival of seedlings, before planting, it is necessary to trim the above-ground part the fact is that when digging seedlings from the nursery, part of the roots is necessarily damaged and remains in the soil, but the aerial part is completely preserved. As a result, the balance between the root system and aboveground part. This has a negative effect on growth tree, especially in the first year. To restore the disturbed balance, cutting seedlings. Annual seedlings that represent a single stem - cut to approximately 1/3 of the length. At two-year-old seedlings are cut to 1/3 not only the top of the trunk, but everything side branches are also cut no less than 1/3 of their length. nine0003

Before planting (except for seedlings in containers) loosen the roots of seedlings from the packing bag, shake out sawdust (peat) and soak on
3-6 hours in a solution of the root formation stimulator "Kornevin", or in a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer 10g per 10l of water.

Planting

The following tree planting schemes are recommended for personal plots:

apple, pear, plum trees 3.5-4 x 2.5-3m;
apricot and cherry.3.5-4 x 3-4m; nine0031 cherries 2-2.5 x 1.5-2m.

For plantings dig holes with a diameter of 100-150cm for apple, pear, plum, apricot and 60-80cm for cherries. The depth of the pits is determined by the thickness fertile soil layer, that is, do not dig deeper than the fertile layer, especially if there is clay (on thin soils with a close occurrence clay horizon in most cases it will be 30-35cm). No way case without going deep into the clay.

When digging a hole, it is recommended Divide the excavated soil into two parts. The first is the top layer of soil, it more fertile, and the second - lower, less fertile. So that when landing on the bottom of the pit, pour out more fertile (upper) soil, from above - less fertile (lower). nine0003

A stake is driven into the center of the pit. Earth from pits are mixed with fertilizers (250-500g superphosphate, 500g ash, 500g lime - fluff, or dolomite flour. 2-3 buckets of humus) and showered to the bottom of the mound. Nitrogen fertilizers are not applied to planting pits. On the top of the mound is established by a seedling, the roots of which are carefully straighten in all directions along the slopes of the mound and fall asleep well crushed, fertilized earth until the planting pit is completely filled. By as the backfill, the tree is slightly shaken to fill the voids between roots, and then the soil is compacted with a foot. nine0003

For seedlings in containers:

The seedling is removed from container carefully tear a lump and straighten to the sides twisted roots. No need to be afraid if 5-10% of the roots along the perimeter of the coma break off. On the contrary, it contributes to a better survival of the plant. AT further lump is placed in the hole, and the remaining empty space fall asleep with waterlogged earth, so that good contact is obtained between lump and earth.

Around planted plants make a hole for watering and pour a few buckets water. Water contributes to the sedimentation of the soil, so it should be watered even in wet weather. It is necessary that the plant is practically in the mud, then compact the soil well around the plant. root collar (the place of transition of the trunk to the root) after the subsidence of the soil should be flush with the soil surface. nine0003

Planting trees without planting holes

On areas with a thin fertile layer, as well as in places with high groundwater, it is recommended not to dig holes when planting. At At the same time, a stake is driven in at the landing site, around which, within a radius of up to 1 m scatter fertilizers (250 - 500g of superphosphate, 500g of ash, 500g of lime - fluffs, or dolomites, 2-3 buckets of humus) and mix them well by digging the soil. Then, near the stake, a mound of fertilized soil. The roots of the seedling are set on a mound, distributed in all sides and fall asleep first with fertilized earth, and then with ordinary earth. Pour more earth around the seedling and make an irrigation hole out of it. so as not to expose the root system, after which they are watered. When the water is absorbed, the hole is destroyed, and from above they are spudded with earth. nine0003

Care after planting

Planted the tree is tied to a stake. Care must be taken that it does not rub against the stake or the garter rope has not grown into it. Labels are also needed remove as they attract bipedal pests…

After planting requires repeated watering, and it is better to water rarely, but plentifully. So that the water does not spread, with each next watering they do hole. After watering, the soil is mulched with manure, peat or compost, placing them in a layer of about 10 cm. If a wild growth, it must be removed, if this is not done, it can overtake seedling growth and will inhibit its development. Practice often shows that after a strong freezing of the above-ground part, wild shoots grow the most active. nine0003

Very often literally within a few days after the first leaves bloom on the seedling, they begin to gnaw on all kinds of pests: weevils, aphids, caterpillars. AT mid-August, fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (30g per 1m2), so that the tops of the shoots ripen well and the trees are better overwintered. In October, to protect the trunk and skeletal branches of the young trees from sunburn and wind drying, they are wrapped in any material other than polyethylene film. Need to take care of protection from mice and rabbits. These are the enemies of the garden. They will harm until the plants become fully grown at 12-15 years of age. nine0003

Remember that young fruit plants for the first 3-4 years are gaining strength and winter hardiness. Still, it's better if you cover them more carefully.

A few words should be said about planting fruit trees on a clone (dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock).

Such plants are the obvious progress of science, they come into fruition earlier than ordinary plants, bear fruit more abundantly, the fruits are larger and tasty. But along with the advantages, they also have disadvantages. Plants on such a stock requires more fertile soils and regular watering. Be sure to take care of the support, otherwise the plant may warp, or even fall off. In some cases, clonal rootstocks less winter-hardy than ordinary seedlings and this requires additional mulching of the trunk circle. It should also be canceled that dwarf plants require smaller planting holes than plants on seedling rootstocks, the norms of mineral fertilizers are also decrease significantly, but the amount of organic should be increased. It is also necessary to make adjustments to the plant density on your plot. For example, columnar apple trees on a dwarf rootstock can planted at a distance of 0.4 meters. nine0003

Placement and Planting of Fruit Trees in the Summer Plot and their Compatibility Between Themselves

Mature Orchard

How to properly plant fruit trees, taking into account their compatibility, how to place fruit and berry crops on your plot so that they grow well and bear fruit. As in a small garden area, the neighborhood of different varieties and species of fruit trees will influence each other.

In this material we will try to reveal the basic principles of organizing an ideal garden on site , where all trees and shrubs are arranged according to the principles of harmonious neighborhood and vertical arrangement.

No "water", just useful concise information for beginner gardeners. General recommendations are given, but particulars, for example, how to plant apple trees, can be understood without problems.

An example of placing and planting fruit trees on the site

Planting trees in the country is a very important moment , however, the laying of a garden is always preceded by a lot of preparatory work. The assessment and selection of sites is carried out taking into account the suitability of the soil for planting, and the mistakes made in the future are already difficult to correct. nine0003

Our gardeners most often do not have to decide on the choice of plots - we cultivate what we have given. But it is important to know their features and, if possible, try to correct the shortcomings.

Poor soils for planting fruit trees

Undesirable for the garden Swampy, closed pits and hollows are completely unsuitable for laying a garden.

Fruit plants are dangerous areas with high standing groundwater. In such areas, the plants are short-lived. The roots of fruit trees, having reached the water, die from lack of air, then the ends of the branches dry up, and the skeletal branches begin to die.

Placement and planting of fruit trees - their compatibility on a plot of 4 acres

Groundwater level when planting fruit trees

When planting apple and pear trees, the groundwater level should be no closer than 2 m from the soil surface. Cherries and plums, which have less deep roots, can be planted at a depth of groundwater no closer than 1.5 m, and currants, gooseberries, raspberries - in the presence of groundwater no closer than 1 m.

Useful and harmful trees - neighbors of the garden

It has been experimentally established that if tree species such as oak, maple, linden, bird cherry grow near the garden plot, fruit plants will grow well. But if alder, sedge grasses, horsetails grow in the vicinity, all this indicates swampiness and high acidity of the soil.

Fruit Tree Compatibility Chart Fruit Tree Planting Compatibility Chart

Usually, various pome, stone, nut and berry crops grow in a small garden plot. Apples, pears, cherries, plums, raspberries, gooseberries, currants and strawberries are compatible with each other, which has allowed them to be grown together for centuries in a limited garden area.

Dense plantings - error

A big mistake when placing fruit trees is dense plantings. For normal growth and fruiting, each fruit plant needs a sufficient amount of soil and air throughout its life. Therefore, it is initially important to distribute crops according to the area they occupy in adulthood. nine0003 Planting fruit trees in the area

Distance between seedlings when planting fruit trees

When establishing the distance between fruit trees when planting, one must first of all take into account the width of the crown. The closing of the crowns of neighboring trees, and even more so the mutual interweaving of branches, worsens the illumination inside the crown.

As a result, premature death of overgrowing and fruiting branches inside the crown occurs. In addition, spraying, pruning and harvesting are significantly more difficult with closed, intertwined crowns. nine0003 Fruit tree on a trellis

Orchard on the plot: temporary compaction of plantings

Temporary compacted plantings can be carried out by placing currants, gooseberries, strawberries in rows of young fruit trees. As the trees grow, the latter are removed from the aisles of the garden.

An excessive increase in the distances between berry bushes and fruit trees is also inappropriate, since the number of plants per unit area decreases, while the total yield of berries and fruits decreases. nine0003 Fruit trees - compatibility

Placement of fruit trees on the site by height

Fruit crops have different winter hardiness, so their location must be arranged so that tall apple trees, pears grow on the north or northeast side of the site, do not obscure other plants and protected them from strong winds.

In home gardens, where processing is carried out mainly by hand, you can place an apple tree and a pear at a distance of 4-5 m from each other, and a cherry and a plum - at a distance of 2.5-4 m.

Drip irrigation idea for a fruit tree seedling

Pollination of fruit trees

In addition, the placement of varieties of each crop should be such that it promotes the best mutual pollination or, as they say, the best cross-pollination. In fruit trees (apple trees, pears, plums, cherries), there are self-fertile and self-fertile varieties.

Self-fertile set fruit when pollinated with their own pollen, self-sterile only when pollinated with pollen from another variety. Almost all of our fruit trees are self-sterile, and for normal pollination and fruiting, several different varieties must be planted. nine0003 Resting place in the garden under pears

Distance 20-25 meters

Observations have shown that between different varieties of fruit trees that should pollinate each other, the distance should be no more than 20-25 meters. Keep this in mind when planting them. Pollen from one variety to another is carried by bumblebees and bees.

Cherries, sea buckthorn, raspberries give rise to shoots, so strawberries should not be planted in their immediate vicinity. In addition, raspberries and strawberries have a common pest - strawberry-raspberry weevil. nine0003 Lime on the ground - protection from ants. Mesh on a tree - protection against rodents.

Proper placement of fruit trees on the plot

Often a gardener has a question, how much and where to plant plants of a particular species? Placement of plants on the site is a personal matter for everyone. Most garden plots are of consumer importance, that is, they receive a variety of garden products to meet the family's needs for berries and fruits.

Some growers consciously prioritize a particular crop, such as strawberries, and obtain a crop in excess of their own needs to sell. nine0003

There are gardeners who are interested not just in harvesting fruits, but in growing some rare species and varieties grown in an unusual way, such as grapes, walnuts, etc.

How and when to plant fruit trees correctly long life. Mistakes made when choosing a place and soil for fruit trees appear over many years and, as a rule, are difficult to correct.

When choosing a place for a garden, consider terrain, soil conditions, groundwater level and perched water. In the conditions of Central Russia, in unfavorable winters, even relatively winter-hardy varieties of apple trees often freeze slightly.

The results of overwintering to a large extent depend on the location of the orchard.

In winter, the air becomes heavier as it cools. On the slopes, it flows down. On flat ground, the air has nowhere to drain and it cools at night. In low places (closed valleys, hollows, depressions, "saucers") not only there is no cold air outflow, but, on the contrary, cold air flows in from the areas above. nine0003 An example of the placement of trees and plantings on site

Production experience indicates that apple trees grow well and bear fruit on soils that ensure free penetration of roots to a depth of at least 60-90 cm. Therefore, when choosing soil for a garden, attention should be paid as to the top layer soils, as well as on underlying soils.

What soils are suitable

In the conditions of the Middle Belt, the most suitable soils for fruit trees are soddy-podzolic soils that develop on light loams and cohesive sandy loams, underlain at a depth of about 1 m by waterproof moraine loam. nine0003

Waterlogged soils and all soils with a high level of groundwater, or with long perched water in the spring months, are of little use for apple trees and other tree fruit species.

Soil cultivation methods

However, the cultivation of fruit crops on such soils is also possible with appropriate cultivation and microreclamation. The oldest and most common methods of cultivating soils are the construction of ramparts, the creation of hills, the use of ridges, the drainage of soils with open ditches, etc. nine0003

Shafts and mounds are designed to raise the root system of cultivated plants as high as possible above the water table. With this method, as with no other, the soil is well warmed up and aerated, which increases its microbiological activity, and hence fertility.

Shafts are arranged in various widths - from 2.5 to 4 m. The height is also different and depends on the level of groundwater and the degree of waterlogging of the soil. Most often it is 0.6-0.9m. It is possible to arrange shafts from existing soil, as well as from imported soil. The size of the shaft depends on the groundwater level in June. The upper edge of the shaft should rise above this level by 1.5-2 m.

A more acceptable way is to grow fruit crops on hills. The height of the mound should be 0.9-1 m, the width or diameter in the upper part is 0.5-0.6 m, in the lower part - 2.5-3 m. The larger the mound, the better, because as the garden grows the hill has to be enlarged. nine0003

Planting fruit trees on permanent ridges

Planting fruit trees on permanent ridges up to 4 m wide is widespread on excessively moist household plots. Excess moisture flows from ridges into furrows, and from furrows into ditches. The ridges are better warmed by the sun. Fruit trees should be planted in small holes equal to the size of the root system of the planted tree.

Soil drainage by open ditches

can also be used in the cultivation of fruit and berry crops. The most common and reliable method of draining waterlogged soils is closed drainage from pottery pipes. But the high cost of this method does not allow it to be widely used in personal plots. nine0003

Benefits of planting trees on shafts

The study and comparison of the root system of apple trees showed that the mass of roots, their distribution zone was significantly greater in trees on shafts than on a flat surface. A powerful root system ensures good crown growth and fruiting of trees.

Autumn planting of fruit trees on the plot

Preplant soil preparation

Optimal conditions for the growth and development of fruit trees are created on soils rich in organic matter, with high moisture capacity and good gas exchange. It is very important not only to choose the appropriate site for the garden, but also to properly prepare the soil on it. nine0003

It is possible to cultivate the soil before planting fruit trees in future ordinary strips with a width of approximately 1.5-2m. Organic fertilizers (manure, compost) are immediately applied to the entire area at the rate of 0.8-1 tons per hundred square meters.

In areas where continuous plowing with manure incorporation is carried out, this is not possible. Large landing pits are dug here (up to 1-1.5 m in diameter, up to 80 cm deep). Then the pits are approximately three-quarters filled with the upper, more fertile layer of soil.

Soddy soil is taken first from the edges of the pit, and then from the row spacing. At the bottom of the pit, 50-100 g of the active substance of phosphate fertilizers, 10-15 kg of humus or peat compost are added. In any case, fertilizers are well mixed with the soil. nine0003

When introducing peat into the pits, remember that peat passes water very slowly and poorly. Therefore, if dry peat is poured into the pit, it will remain dry for a long time, sometimes years, when watered from above. So it is necessary to bring into the pits either already sufficiently moist peat, or water the peat in the pit even before planting trees and be sure to shovel it for uniform moisture.

Planting seedlings

The earlier seedlings are dug up in autumn, the longer will be the period favorable for new root formation when the aerial part is dormant. However, digging up seedlings too early is not good, since by this time the tree will not accumulate reserves, and it will not finish maturing tissues. nine0003

Unripened fabrics retain water much worse and suffer greatly from freezing and drying. Therefore, seedlings should be dug out in the fall as soon as the maturation of the aerial parts ends.

Late autumn planting of an apple tree, less than 20-30 days before a strong drop in soil temperature, that is, later than October 15-20, gives poor results. The consequences of winter damage to late transplanted trees can be observed in plants even during subsequent years (worse growth, late fruiting). nine0003

Transplantation of mature trees

When replanting, it is important to ensure that the soil is firmly attached to the roots of the transplanted trees. Usually, the developing roots and small roots of the plant push the soil particles apart, coming into close contact with them.

Transplanted trees do not retain small “lobes”. The tree's need for water at this time is especially great. Careless planting often leaves air-filled voids between the main skeletal roots, causing the roots to become moldy. nine0003

Planting is conveniently carried out by two people, when one holds the tree, and the second brings the earth, which the planter carefully stuffs under the roots and between them. After the earth is filled between the roots, the planter gets into the pit and tramples down the earth thrown by the second worker with his feet.

At first the tree has to be lightly supported by hand. In order to avoid breaking the roots, the earth is trampled from the edges of the pit to its middle (the heels should be directed to the edges of the pit, and the worker should be facing the tree all the time). nine0003

The compaction must be such that the planted tree cannot be pulled out even with some force.

Proper planting depth must also be ensured.

Planting too shallow will expose the roots after the soil has settled and cause them to dry out. If planted too deep, especially in heavy, clayey, poorly ventilated soils, the trees will also suffer and grow poorly.

The tree must be planted at such a depth that, after precipitation, its root collar coincides with the soil surface. The root neck of a tree is the place where the trunk passes into the root. You can determine it by changing the brown color of the trunk, which has greenish tones in its composition, into an orange-yellow color of the root. nine0003

When planting it should be remembered that the main skeletal roots will subsequently thicken greatly. If you leave them bundled, and even more so twisted, intertwined, they will further interfere with each other. To avoid this, the roots must be straightened when planting.

In very strong winds , especially after heavy rains or watering, transplanted trees may fall under the weight of the crown. The larger the transplanted plants, the higher the risk. Therefore, when transplanting fruit trees older than two years old, a stake is firmly driven into the bottom of the pit and a tree is tied to it. nine0003

When planting, high soil moisture is required

If the soil is moistened to a greater depth and the trees are transplanted in rainy weather, they do not need to be watered. Pour water when watering should be closer to the edges of the pit to avoid scours at the base of the tree. When the water is completely absorbed into the soil, holes are made around the trees in case of further watering.

The level of groundwater occurrence has a great influence on the choice of horticultural crops. If they are closer than 2 m, then this place is unsuitable for apple trees on vigorous rootstocks and pears. Cherry, plum and apple trees on dwarf rootstocks feel satisfactorily when the water occurs no closer than 1.5 m, berry bushes - up to 1 m.

If the water reaches 0.5 m, then only garden strawberries can be grown. If the water is close, but you still want to have fruit trees, then you can plant them on ridges or mounds.

In order to maximize the use of solar heat, long-line planting of horticultural crops is recommended: in the south of the site - low strawberries, then currants and gooseberries, then stone fruits; in the north - the tallest: apple and pear.

Near the southern walls, where the plants receive additional heat reflected by the wall, the most heat-loving plants are planted - grapes, cherries, apricots. Dessert varieties, in which the main thing is appearance, taste and aroma, also require the sunniest places. nine0003

Caring for the crown and trunk

The trunk and main skeletal branches of the tree are nutrient conductors. They should evenly thicken and match each other. Their uniform thickening depends on the state of the cortex. A diseased, rough bark compresses the conductive vessels, which prevents the supply of nutrients from the leaves to the roots and vice versa. The layer of dead bark makes it difficult for cambial cells to divide. In addition, dead bark is a haven for pests.

Remove dead bark, mosses and lichens from the trunk and main skeletal branches in autumn, preferably in cloudy weather. Metal scrapers and wire brushes are used for cleaning. On young trees, boles and bases of skeletal branches are rubbed with coarse burlap or straw bundles.

Before cleaning under the tree, a film is laid

The bark is first cleaned with scrapers and then with brushes. After cleaning, the bark, mosses and lichens are burned, and the stem and crown bases are whitened with lime mortar (1. 5-2 kg of lime, 0.5 kg of clay and a little mullein are taken for 1 bucket of water). When whitewashing, special attention should be paid to the places where the skeletal branches leave the bole, where pests usually hibernate and there are foci of fungal diseases. nine0003

Fertilization of young fruit trees

In the first years after planting, trees either do not produce fruit at all or produce little fruit. At this time, the crown of the tree is laid. The gardener's attention should be directed to ensuring good shoot growth. It is desirable that a powerful crown be formed in the shortest possible time. During this period, special attention should be paid to good (but not excessive) nutrition.

Soil enrichment with minerals

There are a number of methods for soil enrichment with phosphorus, potassium, and organic matter. nine0011 First, the top layers of soil of the near-stem circle (around the tree) with a radius of 2 m are filled with nutrients.

Phosphorus, potash and organic fertilizers are applied in increased quantities. This work must be completed quickly—in three or four years. During this period, it is desirable to bring the potassium content up to 15 mg on heavy soil, up to 12 mg on medium soil, and up to 8 mg per 100 g of soil on light soil. The amount of available phosphorus in all soils is up to 12-15 mg. These figures are approximate. nine0003

The amount of fertilizer needed would be better set depending on the initial fertility of the soil. The less one or another nutrient is contained in it, the more it is necessary to make the corresponding fertilizer. And vice versa. If there is no soil analysis data, it can be recommended to apply at 15-20 g / m2 of the active substance of phosphorus and potassium , i.e. 50-70 g / sq.m of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium chloride.

If there is only fruit and berry or some other ready-made mixture, its contribute at the rate of 250 g / sq. m. In addition to mineral fertilizer, it is necessary to give organic fertilizer - at 4-5 kg ​​/ sq.m. When applying organic fertilizer, the dose of potassium is reduced by one third. It would be better to compost mineral fertilizers (or, in extreme cases, only mix) with organic ones.

Fertilizer is applied annually for digging in autumn

When the top layer is enriched with phosphorus and potassium (approximately in the fourth year), the area in this place is deeply (22-25 cm) dug up. In order to damage the roots less, when digging, the shovel is placed along the radius of the circle, and not across. nine0003

The top layer filled with fertilizer should be placed down, where the roots of the tree will then develop, and the bottom (poor) one should be placed up. In the future, the inverted lower layer will not be difficult to enrich with nutrients by applying fertilizer in the usual doses - 6-7 g / sq.m of the active substance.

Learn more