Plant wisteria tree
How to Grow Wisteria | Garden Design
A gardener’s guide to planting & caring for a wisteria vine By Anne Balogh
Brimming with clusters of fragrant flowers in spring, the showstopping wisteria vine is loved by many gardeners despite its assertive reputation. An extremely vigorous grower, this perennial can get out of hand easily unless carefully restrained. Here are some tips for cultivating all wisteria has to offer while taming its aggressive growth habits.
To see other flowering vine options, check out our list of 21 Flowering Vines.
TRAINING WISTERIA: TRELLISES, PERGOLAS & OTHER SUPPORT STRUCTURES
Wisteria requires a sturdy support structure, such as this well-built pergola.
With its climbing agility and fast growth habits, wisteria can completely transform a garden in just a few years, becoming a breathtaking shade cover, privacy screen, or focal point. Wisteria has the greatest impact when trained to grow on pergolas, arbors, and other strong overhanging supports so the long flower clusters can hang freely, creating a stunning floral canopy. In Japan, wisteria is even trained onto massive trellises to form blooming tunnels in spring. You can also train wisteria onto wires mounted on fences or stone walls or drape them over garden benches or arched entryways.
Although you may be tempted to let wisteria twine around the trunk of a tree, its vice-like grip will eventually strangle it. To achieve a similar effect, you can train wisteria as a single-trunk, free-standing tree by staking the thick woody stem of the plant to a sturdy post or 4-by-4 embedded securely in the ground. As the plant grows, remove all unwanted growth along the trunk, allowing only the top to grow. Using the same techniques on a smaller scale, wisteria can be grown in large pots or as a bonsai tree.
Whatever trellising method you use, make sure the system is sturdy. Wisterias will readily topple weak wooden trellises, so use durable materials such as heavy metal pipe set in concrete or pressure-treated or rot-resistant wood beams. Also avoid growing the vines alongside your house, because they can creep under siding and wrap around gutters.
Keep in mind that once wisteria becomes well-established, it can be very difficult if not impossible to move later. Choose your planting location and design intent carefully, because you may not be able to change your mind later.
HOW TO GET YOUR WISTERIA TO BLOOM
Be patient, a newly planted wisteria may take several years to mature before it begins flowering.
Gardeners are often devastated when their wisteria fails to bloom the first season after planting. With young plants, be patient. Wisteria takes several years to mature and become established before it begins flowering with gusto. However, a lack of flowering can also be attributed to other factors, such as too much fertilizer, improper pruning, injury to the flower buds by frost exposure, or too much shade. Here are some tips from Toronto Master Gardeners for guaranteeing a profusion of blooms:
- Avoid buying wisteria planted from seed. Seed-grown plants remain in a juvenile state for an extended period and can take up to 15 years to bloom. Instead, choose varieties that are grafted or propagated from cuttings from a reliable bloomer.
- To eliminate the risk of frost damage to flower buds, grow American wisteria or Kentucky wisteria. These plants form buds on the current season’s growth.
- Don’t overwater or fertilize established vines. Wisteria needs to undergo a bit of stress to force the development of flower buds. Too much water or the application of high-nitrogen fertilizers will encourage leaf production at the expense of flowering.
- Wisteria planted in full sun will bloom more reliably than plants located in part shade. Make sure the upper part of the plant receives at least six hours of daily sun exposure.
Here are some of the most popular wisteria cultivars:
Swipe to view slides
Photo by: Müller/ McPhoto / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria floribunda ‘Rosea'
Soft pink 13- to 16-inch flower clusters tinged with lavender. Grows more slowly than other cultivars (2 to 3 feet per year), making it a good choice for smaller gardens.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: Garden World Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria floribunda ‘Snow Showers’
Pure white, pea-like flowers give the impression of snow falling in springtime. Very fragrant.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: nnattalli / Shutterstock.
Wisteria floribunda 'Longissima Alba'
Very fragrant white wisteria with dense flower clusters up to 20 inches long.
Zones: 4-9
Photo by: Tim Gainey / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria floribunda 'Royal Purple'
Very fragrant white wisteria with dense flower clusters up to 20 inches long.
Zones: 4-9
Photo by: Garden World Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria floribunda 'Violacea Plena'
Showy blue-violet double flowers that fade to pale lavender.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: InfoFlowersPlants / Shutterstock.
Wisteria sinensis 'Alba'
Short clusters of fragrant, pure white, pea-like flowers.
Zones: 5-8
Photo by: Wiert Nieuman / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria sinensis 'Prolific'
Noted for its prolific clusters of lilac-blue flowers. Typically begins blooming at an earlier age than other cultivars.
Zones: 5-8
Photo by: Garden World Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria frutescens 'Amethyst Falls'
Blooms at an early age, often its first season, with lightly fragrant lilac-blue flowers. Blooms also arrive about two weeks later than other varieties, so the buds are rarely affected by a late frost.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: Carl Boro / Millette Photomedia.
Wisteria frutescens 'Longwood Purple'
This American wisteria flowers later than Asian varieties, but can repeat bloom through September. Offers a remarkable display of grape-like flower clusters.
Zones: 5-9
Photo by: Jennifer Martin-Atkins / Millette Photomedia.
Wisteria macrostachya 'Aunt Dee'
Abundant 8- to 12-inch-long clusters of fragrant lilac-blue flowers on new growth. Blooms at an early age.
Zones: 4-9
Photo by: blickwinkel / Alamy Stock Photo.
Wisteria macrostachya ‘Blue Moon'
Produces foot-long clusters of lavender-blue flowers in spring, with repeat blooming throughout the growing season once established.
Zones: 3-9
Photo by: Paul S Drobot / Millette Photomedia.
Wisteria macrostachya 'Clara Mack'
A pure white flowering form of Kentucky wisteria with dark green foliage.
Zones: 3-9
Not pictured:
Wisteria floribunda 'Lawrence'
Pale violet-blue flowers. The 12- to-18-inch clusters are loaded with as many as 160 blooms, more than all other Japanese wisteria.
Zones: 5-9
Wisteria frutescens 'Nivea'
Densely packed white flower clusters only 6 inches long, creating a pinecone-like shape.
Zones: 5-9
WHERE TO BUY WISTERIA
American Meadows
Brushwood Nursery
Digging Dog Nursery
Fast Growing Trees Nursery
Monrovia
Nature Hills Nursery
Spring Hill Nurseries
Thompson & Morgan
Wayside Gardens
Wilson Bros Gardens
WISTERIA Q&A
How large can wisteria get?
Wisteria vines can grow to epic proportions, spreading 100 feet or more under ideal growing conditions. The world’s largest known wisteria, located in Sierra Madre, Calif., was planted in 1894 and covers more than one acre.
Why does wisteria make loud popping noises?
Wisteria is a member of the pea family (Fabaceae), and similar to sweet pea vines, it produces long (but poisonous) seedpods after the flowers fade. When the pods ripen and turn brown, they explode with enough force to eject the seeds far away from the parent plant. This is Mother Nature’s way of preventing the overcrowding of seedlings, so they can germinate and grow without competition.
How long will wisteria live?
Planting wisteria is a long-term commitment. If you put a plant in the ground now, it may still be blooming and growing a century later if left undisturbed. One of the oldest wisteria vines, located in Japan’s Ashikaga Flower Park, dates back to 1870.
READER QUESTIONS
Q: I love wisteria but am having a hard time with it here in Minnesota. It’s not making much progress up my wooden arbor. - James A. Reider, White Bear Lake, Minn.
A: Your wisteria is root-hardy, but all the top growth it puts on each year is killed by severe winter temperatures. No wonder it’s not getting anywhere on your arbor. The two most common wisterias are W. sinensis and W. floribunda; the latter is a bit hardier. Its flower clusters are longer and more fragrant, but if your plant has never flowered, the best way to tell which one you have is the manner in which it twines: clockwise for W. floribunda, counterclockwise for W. sinensis. If you find you are growing the less hardy species, you might give W. floribunda a whirl, or even better yet, the native W. macrostachya. You might also consider wrapping the new growth in burlap for a little extra protection. If swaddling it is out of the question, you may have to settle on another vine. Incidentally, I hope your arbor is made of strong, thick timber: wisteria’s anacondalike stems have brought down many a finely wrought Victorian porch and gazebo.
Americans seem to have a strong distrust of vines; we grow them much less than other garden plants. It probably comes from a Freudian hang-up about lush, twining, probing shoots and tendrils or, more likely, our fear of the self-important, strangling imported thugs we see taking over in nature - porcelain berry, Hall’s honeysuckle, and kudzu. I’d like to see increased use of vines and more imaginative ways of growing them. Why not plant different vines at the base of your arbor and let them fight it out? You’ll have more interesting foliage shapes and textures and more flowers over a longer period of time. And, should some prove not as hardy or as vigorous as others, you won’t be left with a bare arbor. Why not be Darwinian and let the tough Minnesota winters weed out the weaklings?
Try trumpet creeper — the plain red species (Campsis radicans), not the named varieties that are less hardy — for its deep-green foliage and wonderful junglelike red flowers in late summer. It’s vigorous and can climb up a wooden arbor unassisted. Native Dutchman’s pipe (Aristolochia macrophylla) is a gamble in hardiness, but give it a try. It’s rambunctious and casts a deep shade with its large, tropical-looking leaves. A hardy, fast-growing native whose foliage turns scarlet in the fall is Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia).
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Wisteria Tree - Growing and Planting Tips
The Wisteria tree is well-recognized for the clusters or groups of fragrant purple flowers it tends to bloom every spring. A lot of gardeners are also fond of these unique perennial vines.
Guide to Choosing a Jade Plant (als...
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Guide to Choosing a Jade Plant (also on Where to Grow and How to Plant)
Note, though, that this Chinese wisteria tree is a vigorous grower. Left uncontrolled, the growing process may get out of hand. Let’s get to know more about this famous plant and how you can carefully restrain it, tame its aggressive and vigorous growth, and cultivate it through this article.
Quick Facts About the Wisteria Tree
- Botanical Name: Wisteria Sinensis
- Type of plant: Vine, tree, shrub
- Sunlight: Full sun and partial shade
- Moisture: Moderate
- Mature width and height: 8 to 10 feet (width) and 6 to 30 feet (height)
- Hardiness zones: 4 to 9 outdoors
- Growth rate: Moderate to rapid
- Soil type and pH: Any type; slightly acidic to neutral pH level
- Color of flower: Purple, white, blue
- Bloom time: Spring
Wisteria Description and a Couple of Physical Features
Wisteria refers to a vining plant with a long lifespan that you can also cultivate into a tree form. It is characterized by its cascade of purple and blue flowers that look stunning especially when they hang from an archway or pergola during the early summer and spring. The blooms or flower could also be white and pink.
It is an aggressive and fast-growing plant, especially if it is in tree form. It can even reach up to 30 feet long and has a heavy weight. You can expect its vines to work their way to all the crooks and crannies, which is why planting and growing it close to your house is not advisable.
As for the Wisteria flowers, you can easily recognize them for being beautifully fragrant. This means that these plants are capable of feeding all your senses. After producing flowers, there is a bean-like and brown pod that will remain on it until the winter season comes.
Expect the blooms to come out only on new growth. To make it easier for you to distinguish the wisteria in tree form from the other plants, here are its common physical features:
Flowers
The trees wisteria holds clusters of nicely scented and colorful flowers that cascade from the vines. Those flowers are among the most recognizable features of this plant. It has an impressive display of flowers that you can expect to transform into a garden landscape.
It can shower such a landscape with nice colors, including purple, mauve, lilac, white, and pink. Keep in mind, though, that it may take several years for the tree wisteria that you have just planted to burst into bright colors.
You need to establish them in the ground first – after which, they will profusely bloom annually with dangling racemes in the shade of pink, white, and purple. Encourage such blooms annually by making sure that the plant receives 6-hour sunlight every day. Pruning two times annually also helps when it comes to encouraging blooming.
Color
In terms of color, the one that is strongly connected to the flowers that the wisteria blooms is purple. Note, though, that Chinese, American, and Japanese wisterias come with cultivars that hold various pastel hues. Considering that, note that the most common colors you can see in the flowers are lilac, pink, white, and purple-blue.
Leaves
The tree wisteria also consists of compound leaves that have small, smooth, and glossy green leaflets that are around one to three inches long and a max of an inch wide. Each stem may also have around seven to nineteen leaflets.
One fact about these vining plants that you should be aware of is that they are also deciduous, meaning they tend to drop leaves during the fall season. In most cases, the color of its foliage during this season is bright yellow and bronze with a bit of yellow tint.
Seeds and Fruit
It is highly likely for the flowers of mature plants to have bean-like pods in green to brown containing seeds. The wisteria will also extend from four to six inches long. Expect the mature plants to ripen once the autumn comes, too.
Wisteria Tree Versus Wisteria Vines
In general, the trees wisteria is one species of vining and woody plants that you can prune and train with the goal of growing and forming them into a tree. This means that it is initially a vine. You can just cultivate it so it will turn into a tree, which is a great idea if you want to bask in its great display of colors.
If growing this vining plant into a tree is your goal, then the best thing that you can do is to provide strong support for the primary stem. It is also crucial to prune the side shoots regularly so you can establish an overhanging canopy.
As a tree, the wisteria will turn out to be a small, beautiful, and blooming variety, provided you train it appropriately. It will come with cascading flowers and drooping branches. You can easily grow your wisteria into a tree in USDA zones 4 to 9.
You may also grow small variations in containers. That way, you can enjoy the fragrant lavender or purple flowers as those will form part of your garden collection. The good thing about putting the wisterias in a container is that it can help manage the growing size of the mature plants.
You can also form the wisteria vining plants into bonsai trees, the eye-catching smaller versions of the bigger wisteria tree. You just have to trim the bonsai properly so it can produce small and dangling conical groups of flowers in purple shades.
Types of the Wisteria Vines
When comparing different types of wisterias, your ultimate choice will most likely boil down to aesthetics and availability. In the US, the most popular species that you can grow in your garden are the Japanese wisteria and Chinese wisteria.
Gardeners favor the two because both have showy bloom clusters, powerful fragrances, and various cultivar and color options. Here are the other details of the two types together with the other variations and species of the Wisteria vines.
Japanese Wisteria
Also called Wisteria floribunda, this type is capable of growing extensive flower clusters or conical racemes that reach around 2 to 3 ft. long. Their colors vary – among which are deep purple, white, lavender, and blue.
As a deciduous vine, the Japanese wisteria can fill your garden with nice scents. It can also add several pastel colors to your garden. It is also possible for this plant to grow at around 10 to 30 feet while thriving well when cultivated in moderately moist soil and under the full sun.
It can also survive better when grown in USDA zones 4 to 9. Wisteria floribunda in tree form also has green leaves with some hints of the color red. This can turn into brilliant yellow come the fall season.
Moreover, Wisteria floribunda has racemes in various colors, like purple, red-violet, rose-pink, and white blooms. There are even showy versions that display double flowers boasting intense yet pleasant fragrances.
You can also easily identify the silvery-gray vines of this wisteria floribunda because apart from being gnarled, they also turn clockwise. This makes it unique from the Chinese wisteria.
Chinese Wisteria
The Chinese wisteria tree is also famous for its other name, Wisteria Sinensis. As its name suggests, this vigorous and strong climbing perennial originated from China. The plant is characterized by its heavily scented and colorful blooms that come out during the summer and spring.
It produces cascading groups of flowers in bluish-purple, pink, white, and violet shades. Expect them to start blooming during the early spring and appear before the foliage. You will also notice the flowers growing up to a length of twelve inches, almost hiding the silver-gray stems of the plant upon full bloom.
As for its foliage, you will notice that it looks like copper or bronze leaflets that turn green once the summer comes. Each leaf is oval-shaped and elongated that can grow around 7 to 13 leaflets.
It can grow perfectly well when exposed to the full sun with a length ranging from 10 to 25 feet. It will also be growing well in moderately fertile soil that has medium moisture. It is hardy enough, so expect it to be drought-tolerant, too.
American Wisteria
Also called Wisteria frutescens, this species, which is native to the US, can be expected to thrive really well in several places that are not part of California. These include the Southeastern areas from Texas to Florida.
One can describe the American wisteria as a vigorous and slender climber capable of winding counterclockwise while producing aromatic and large racemes of eye-catching white or purple blooms. It has hanging conical clusters capable of achieving growth of a max of 6-inch long. It tends to bloom from April to May once the foliage emerges.
The American Wisteria can survive well in 5 to 9 USDA zones. It is drought-tolerant and has tall and climbing stems that can grow as high as 15 to 40 feet whether you expose it to partial shade or full sun. However, note that this plant will only produce the most impressive blooms if you are constantly growing it in moist soil and full sunlight.
Compared to the Japanese and Chinese wisterias, the American variation is not as aggressive. It is just as beautiful as the mentioned species but it still grows at a slower pace, preventing it from overtaking your garden.
You can also immediately tell that you have the native American wisteria because of its distinguishable pods that are smooth and bean-like. As for the Japanese and Chinese wisteria, such pods are either velvety or fuzzy.
The Perfect Time to Plant the Wisteria
The perfect time for planting the Wisteria tree is during the early spring or fall. It is the specific time when this plant becomes dormant, causing it to suffer minimal stress when you replant it. You will also have an easier time caring for wisteria in a container if you plant it on the ground then transfer it during dormancy.
Where Should You Plant Wisteria?
The perfect place where you can plant the Wisteria is one that exposes it to the full sun while being in a West-facing or South-facing wall. This specific spot can help the flowers come out regularly.
Pick a spot that has fertile and moist soil, too. It also needs to be well-drained while having added compost. Also, note that once the wisteria plant is already established, it will become a perennial vining variety guaranteed to be drought-tolerant.
Also, note that this vining plant is sturdy and robust, making it capable of growing for several years. It makes it necessary for you to pick a spot where it will have strong support for its huge vines and colorful flowers.
Planting the wisteria plant in a container is also possible. Note, though, that potted wisteria will most likely have a restricted size due to its container. That said, it would be best to enjoy the plant’s colorful clusters of dangling flowers in a garden, even if it is just small and compact.
How to Plant and Care for the Wisteria?
Planting the wisteria tree typically involves digging a hole with a similar depth to its root ball. The hole also has to be two times the root ball’s diameter. Put the plant there, making sure that you set it straight.
After that, start backfilling the hole. Water it every several inches to avoid the formation of air pockets. After completely filling the hole, pat the soil down lightly.
When you dig a hole and add the plants into it, ensure that there is enough space in between each one. There should be a minimum of ten to fifteen feet of space apart together with the support system since it has vines that may quickly overpower each other.
Also, note that the care and maintenance of the wisteria plants require focus on the following areas:
Sunlight
Just like what was indicated earlier, the wisteria, whether in vine or tree form, can flourish if you expose it to full sunlight. Giving it a minimum of six hours of sunlight daily will surely help it produce more beautiful blooms.
Water
In terms of water, these vines require only a moderate amount. The water should just be enough to build and establish a strong and sturdy root system. It is capable of tolerating drought for a short period so a moderate amount of water is enough.
Overwatering is also bad for its growth. An excessive amount of water, especially if it comes with the application of fertilizer rich in nitrogen, may only stop the flowers from blossoming. The reason is that this may cause the plant to develop a higher amount of foliage.
Soil
The presence of excessive amounts of nutrients may cause the soil to become basic or acidic. The result would be serious issues with the plant, like chlorosis, especially if you cultivate it in alkaline soil.
The wisteria vines and trees favor loamy soil with just the right amount of nutrition. You also have to remember that this vining plant grows more healthily when cultivated in porous soils. It should be porous enough that it can retain sufficient moisture while still having excellent draining capabilities.
Fertilizer
What is great about the wisteria is that there is a guarantee that it is indeed aggressive and known for being fast-growing. With that, you no longer have to fertilize it regularly. Even with that fact, it is still crucial to check the nutrition content of the soil just to be one hundred percent sure.
When it comes to the application of fertilizer, you should remember that those high in nitrogen may lead to the better growth of foliage but it can stop the plant from flowering. If you want your wisteria to produce more flowers, then it helps to use fertilizers rich in phosphorus, instead.
Propagation
Wisteria vine propagation using seeds is not highly advisable since it often takes up to fifteen years for this plant species to bloom. If you need to propagate, then you may want to do so through grafting or by planting cuttings.
You may want to add root hormones as such can support the quicker development of roots during propagation. Avoid underwatering the plant as it may only cause the root system to become shallow. Give a sufficient amount of water during propagation to help the plant in creating a well-established root system.
Pruning
Another crucial part of wisteria tree maintenance is pruning. This involves the prompt removal of branches that tend to grow low. Do the removal from the tree’s base as a means of stimulating the primary stem to grow.
While the wisteria tree is growing, take out lower shoots so you can retain its tree form. This means that every new growth that may occur should be on top.
It is also crucial to prune the topmost part of the tree regularly. That way, you can prevent the whole plant from becoming too heavy or taking over your entire garden. The best time to prune would be during the early spring.
Wisteria Blooming Tips
When it comes to growing the wisteria, patience is actually the key. The reason is that it may take a long time, years even, for this plant to mature and turn into an established tree that can start to produce nice flowers.
Some gardeners even feel frustrated upon noticing that their wisteria did not bloom even when the first season after they planted it has passed. While you may have to wait a bit for young plants to produce flower, note that lack of flowers may also be caused by other factors – among which are the following:
- Improper pruning
- Excessive shade
- Flower bud injury due to extreme exposure to frost
- Applying excessive amounts of fertilizer
If you think that your wisteria does not produce flowers because of other factors, then you can encourage an abundance of flowers and blooms through these additional tips:
Do not buy a wisteria cultivated and grown from seeds
Note that plants that grow from seeds will most likely stay in the juvenile stage for a long time. If possible, buy propagated or grafted wisteria from cuttings. It should also come from a trusted bloomer.
Choose to grow Kentucky or American Wisteria
This is a great tip if your goal is to make the flower buds less prone to getting frost damage. The reason is that these species can be expected to develop buds based on the growth of the present season.
Avoid fertilizing or overwatering already established vines
The reason is that you also have to make the wisteria tree go through even slight stress so it can force the process of developing flower buds. Applying fertilizers rich in nitrogen or overwatering the vines may only cause the production of leaves to become excessive. This may compromise the plant’s flowering capabilities.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Where do wisteria trees grow best?
You can expect your wisteria tree to grow at its best if you pick a location for it that is not close to other plants. The reason is that it is fast-growing, which may cause it to overtake its neighboring plants easily.
Wisteria tree also tends to grow well into and onto nearby structures, like sheds, garages, and houses, among others. Avoid planting it very close to your house, though.
As for its vines, keep in mind that they need a highly durable structure where they can climb. This makes it necessary to have a wooden or metal trellis or pergola when growing the wisteria vines.
What is the difference between a wisteria vine and a wisteria in tree form?
Wisteria is actually a woody vining plant species that you can train and prune so it can grow into a tree. This means that this plant species is categorized as a vine first. You can then cultivate and grow it into a wisteria tree so you can show off the amazing display of colors from its cascading racemes without requiring the support of a huge vine.
If you plan to grow your Wisteria into a tree, then ensure that there is adequate support for the main stem. Prune the side shoots regularly, too, as doing so can help in creating an overhanging canopy.
Are Wisteria trees easy to grow?
Yes, growing Wisteria trees is easy as they can quickly adapt to various types of soil. They can also tolerate a lot of things, like drought and deer, and resist some diseases. You just have to constantly monitor the rapid and vigorous growth of the wisteria tree.
Is Wisteria poisonous to touch?
Yes, the wisteria tree is poisonous/toxic, though this is only mild. It is particularly toxic to dogs and cats. Each part of the Wisteria, especially the seed, is toxic, so you have to be extra careful when handling it.
The accidental ingestion of some of the tree’s seeds may cause vomiting, mild abdominal pain, and diarrhea.
Conclusion
Growing and cultivating a wisteria tree is definitely a great decision especially if you love to witness the stunning beauty of this plant species. It is an incredible choice as it provides a beautiful display of flowers with a distinguishable fragrance without taking over your whole garden.
planting and care in the open field, growing from seeds, photo
Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/en/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: Garden Plants Retrained: Last amendments:
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- Planting and Care for Glycinia
- Botanical Description0012
Flowers Glycinia (Greek. Glicinia - Sweet) , or Visteria , belong to the genus of the darling plants of the family, growing. subtropical areas and attracting attention with their fragrant, hanging purple inflorescences. The Latin name "Wisteria" was given to the wisteria flower in honor of Caspar Wistar, professor of anatomy at the University of Pennsylvania. Known 9species of the genus wisteria, but as horticultural crops, only Chinese wisteria and Japanese wisteria, or profusely flowering, are grown.
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Planting and caring for wisteria
- Planting: sowing seeds in the ground - in early spring, for seedlings - in December, planting seedlings in the ground - in May.
- Flowering: late March to late summer.
- Lighting: bright sun in the first half of the day, then diffused light or partial shade.
- Soil: nutritious, well-drained, slightly alkaline.
- Watering: from spring to late summer - moderate: the soil in the tree circle should be slightly damp all the time, and from mid-September, watering is gradually reduced.
- Top dressing: during the growing season once a week alternately with mineral and organic solutions.
- Pruning: in summer to keep the shape of the bush.
- Propagation: sometimes by seeds, but more often by cuttings.
- Pests: clover mites, aphids.
- Diseases: chlorosis.
Read more about the cultivation of wisteria below
Botanical description
The wisteria plant in nature is a woody deciduous vine with drooping branches, reaching 15-18 meters in height. The leaves of wisteria are imparipinnate, pubescent when young, up to 30 cm long, with the number of leaves from 7 to 13. Fragrant purple, lilac or white flowers are collected in drooping brushes up to 30 cm long. Wisteria blooms in spring, at the end of March and can bloom throughout the summer.
The wisteria tree is in great demand in landscape design, it is grown in various forms - both as a liana wrapping around the walls of an arbor or a fence frame, and as a standard tree. Wisteria is also grown at home in a container way in the form of a tree, but still homemade wisteria is not as common as garden wisteria, so let's talk about growing wisteria in the garden.
Growing wisteria from seeds
Growing conditions
Wisteria seeds are planted in late November or early December. Wisteria seeds are sown on the surface of a soil mixture consisting of leafy soil (four parts), soddy soil and sand (one part each), sprinkled with a thin layer of sand on top, sprayed with water from a spray bottle and, having covered the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect, put in a dark warm (22-25 ºС) place, keeping the soil slightly moist all the time. Wisteria sprouts from seeds in 3-4 weeks, and after another week and a half, it will be possible to transfer seedlings to the light by organizing protection from direct sunlight.
When the seedlings have two leaves, they are dived into separate containers together with a clod of earth on the roots and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Care of seedlings
Seedlings dived into individual containers must be accustomed to the environment in which they will live. To do this, they need to be taken out for a couple of hours a day to an unheated part of the house or kept under an ajar window, provided that there is no draft in the room.
Wisteria seeds can be sown directly into open ground in early spring, then seedlings grow adapted to the environment and subsequently delight with their endurance.
Planting wisteria
When to plant
Plant wisteria in the spring after the last frost has passed. All types of garden wisteria are cold-resistant, but it is better not to expose young plants to the risk of frostbite. Before planting wisteria, it is necessary to determine in which area it will grow better - wisteria is not an annual, and if you are interested in the quality of flowering, then keep in mind that it should be in the sun for half a day, so choose the most sunny and protected from gusts of wind, the soil is nutritious, well-drained and slightly alkaline.
How to plant
Wisteria seedlings are transplanted into pits 60x60x50 cm in size, having previously applied mineral fertilizers to the soil in the area for digging at the rate of 25-30 g per square meter of planting area. Be prepared for the fact that wisteria will not show signs of life for some time - it grows for a long time, and in the first years it forms only long thin shoots. In general, you can see beautiful flowers of wisteria grown from seeds only after 4-5, or even after 10 years.
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Care of wisteria in the garden
Care instructions
From spring to late summer, wisteria requires moderate watering so that the soil underneath is always slightly moist, but never wet. If the spring is without rain, then you will have to water more diligently, because the buds may crumble, and you will not see the flowers for which the plant was planted. From mid-September, watering is gradually reduced.
In order for wisteria to bloom on time and abundantly, it is fed once a week during the active growing season, alternating liquid mineral fertilizers (Kemira-lux, for example) with organic ones (mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:20). It is useful to pour wisteria with chalk water once a season (100 g of chalk per bucket of water). When the flowers begin to fade, remove the faded inflorescences. In addition, you will have to cut dry branches, tie up and guide the shoots so that they do not fall and grow in the right direction.
Before the onset of winter, it is necessary to pile up the rosette high, remove the vine from the supports and lay it on the near-stem circle, as is done with climbing roses, preparing them for wintering, and then sprinkle with dry leaves and cover with spunbond or lutrasil. You can not do all this, but if there is no snow in winter, the wisteria may freeze.
Flowering
When does wisteria bloom? Chinese wisteria blooms at the age of three, Japanese - at the age of ten, so wisteria is a plant for those who know how to wait. Chinese wisteria blooms from April, with all buds opening at the same time. Wisteria blooms profusely from May to June. Make sure that there is no excess nitrogen in the soil, otherwise the wisteria will grow green, but will not bloom.
Pruning
Pruning wisteria to stimulate flowering and to form the plant. To form a standard tree, one strong shoot is chosen, and the rest are removed. If you grow wisteria as a climbing plant, then it is advisable to remove the abundantly growing side shoots so that wisteria does not expend energy on overgrowing greens, but directs them to the formation of buds.
Pruning wisteria in spring consists of removing young shoots sticking out so that their foliage does not hide flower clusters from view during flowering. In addition, a young lateral annual branch of wisteria can produce an inflorescence this year only if you shorten it to 30 cm.
Formative pruning of the plant is carried out in summer: lateral shoots are cut off by 20-40 cm, and at the very end of summer by another 10-20 cm. However, try not to get carried away with the process, otherwise you may deprive yourself of the pleasure of seeing the lush flowering of wisteria.
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Propagation of wisteria
We have already described in this article the propagation of wisteria by seed. It is worth adding that many of the germinated and even grown seedlings may never produce flowers - no one knows why this happens. But we have repeatedly told readers that propagation by seeds is unreliable and it is much better to use vegetative methods of reproduction.
Wisteria is most easily propagated by layering. To do this, in the spring, an annual shoot is selected, an oblique incision is made in the middle of its length, the shoot is bent and placed with an incision on a pot with a clay-soddy substrate, the outlet is fixed in this position and added dropwise, leaving the top of the shoot free. It will be possible to separate the rooted cuttings from the mother plant only next spring.
In various publications they write that it is possible to propagate wisteria by cuttings or grafting on the roots, but I don’t know anyone who actually succeeded in this, but my layering took root.
Pests and diseases
Wisteria is sometimes attacked by aphids or clover mites. Aphids are destroyed by an insecticide, and mites by an acaricidal preparation. If wisteria grows in alkaline soil, it can be affected by chlorosis, from which its leaves turn yellow. In the fight against the disease, root dressing of wisteria with iron salts is used.
Species and varieties
Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)
Dense leafy liana up to 15-20 m in height. The leaves are pinnate, large, at first pubescent, but eventually becoming smooth. Flowers in loose racemes up to 30 cm long, light lilac. The fruit is a bean up to 15 cm long. This species has a garden form with white flowers (f. alba) and a form with double flowers (f. plena).
Wisteria profusely flowering, or multi-flowered (Wisteria floribunda)
It is also colloquially “Japanese”, because it comes from the Japanese islands - it differs from Chinese in smaller sizes (only 8-10 m in length), larger leaves up to 40 cm in length and the number of leaves up to 19, a large number of inflorescences on the plant, as well as their larger sizes - up to 50 cm in length. The flowers themselves are smaller than those of Chinese wisteria, of a violet-blue hue, bloom gradually, starting from the base of the brush. This species is more cold-resistant than Chinese wisteria. There are garden forms with white, pink, purple double flowers and a variegated form with variegated leaves.
In addition to these two most popular species, there are also beautiful wisteria (Wisteria venusta), shrub wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) and large wisteria (Wisteria macrostachys) in cultivation, on the basis of which Blue Moon wisteria was bred by American gardeners from Minnesota, capable of wintering in the garden even without cover.
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Literature
- Read related topics on Wikipedia
- Peculiarities and other plants of the legume family
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
Wisteria - why not wrap wisteria around a pole and how to fix the situation?
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Wisteria: planting, care, cultivation
Wisteria is a climbing perennial liana with beautiful leaves and pink, white, yellow, blue, purple flowers hanging in long tassels. Liana is just strewn with them. Admiring her is a pleasure. And yes, it smells delicious! We will tell you how to grow such beauty in your garden. After all, she quickly braids any supports, nets, arbors, arches. By the way, in a moderately and sharply continental climate, it is also grown as a houseplant in small tubs.
How to grow wisteria from seeds
Wisteria can be sown from seeds from December to March and grown in containers on a windowsill with additional lighting or in a greenhouse. Pre-seeds are soaked in warm water for 12 hours and aired in the air. For sowing, take a light nutrient soil: mix sand, leafy and soddy soil in a ratio of 1:1:4. Moisten the soil, scatter the seeds without deepening. Cover with glass or film on top and put in a warm dark place at t +20 ° C. Periodically check the soil moisture, spray and ventilate the greenhouse.
The wisteria should germinate after 2 weeks. Now the greenhouse needs to be taken out of the dark to a sunny window. But from the hot rays it is necessary to shade. When the second leaf appears, the seedlings dive.
Moderate precision watering is important: without drying out, without excessive moisture, soaking the soil 25 cm deep. Until the end of summer, young wisteria will grow to 30 cm. In autumn or spring, it can be planted in a permanent place in the ground or in a flower pot if you plan to grow it as a houseplant. For example, on the balcony. It will bloom in the 4th year.
It must be said that wisteria grown from seeds retains its varietal qualities worse and does not bloom as luxuriantly as varietal seedlings. But we ourselves welcome any experiments - why not try.
How to choose soil
Wisteria loves sun, warmth and good watering. At the same time, the soil can be almost any, it is undemanding to it. Ideally, plant on slightly acidic fertile loams or black soil, or simply add humus to the planting pit. Plant it in a place closed from the wind, under the sun - during daylight hours at least 6 hours the sun should fall on the bush.
Rules for planting wisteria outdoors
Wisteria seedlings can be planted outdoors in spring and summer, depending on the region. In the central zone and to the north, it is favorable to plant in May-June, when the threat of frost and serious temperature changes has passed. In warm regions, it can be planted already in March-April under shelter, as well as in autumn, in September, so that the seedling has time to take root before winter. Before planting, put the seedling in water for 6 hours, you can add roots to the water.
Under the seedling you will need a planting hole 60*60 cm. Acidic soils can be slightly alkalized with lime or dolomite flour. When planting, place the root horizontally, the roots should not intertwine or bend upwards. If the seedling has a graft, then after planting it should be slightly above ground level. After planting, immediately tie it to a support, pour 1-2 buckets abundantly on a bush and mulch the soil around the seedling with peat, humus or sawdust.
Wisteria care
Modern varieties of wisteria tolerate both extreme heat and frost down to -35 °C. In the first year after planting, watering is very important: water 2-3 times a week, and especially in the heat, do not let the soil dry out. In the hot summer, when the air is dry, do sprinkling in the evening, spraying the bush with water. In autumn, watering is stopped. Adult wisteria grow roots so powerful that they are able to extract water from the deep layers of the earth. But first they need to be well watered.
If the soil is alkaline, wisteria can suffer from chlorosis when the leaves turn yellow. Then you need to feed fertilizer with iron. For abundant flowering, feed with fertilizers with potassium.
How to trim a wisteria
Trimming a wisteria seems to be the hardest part of caring for it. After all, she is growing so magnificently, how to figure out her shoots? Actually, it's not hard to figure it out. Trim twice a year according to the rules:
- For the 1st year. In summer, 2-3 shoots will grow from the lateral buds. Tie the top one to the support vertically, and tie the side ones at an angle. And remove all growths at the root. In the side shoots of the second order (shoots on the main shoots), cut in August 15 cm from the base.
- For the 2nd and subsequent years. In the spring, cut the vertical growth to 70 cm from the upper lateral shoot. Cut side branches 1/3 short to encourage growth and flowering. Do this pruning every year. In autumn, shorten excess side shoots to 20 cm from the base.
All pruning should be such that there are strong lateral stems on the upright stem spaced 45 cm apart. Then the inflorescences of the upper tier will hang down without blocking the inflorescences of the lower tier.
Adult wisteria has already formed skeletal shoots. Then the pruning is as follows: in August, all growths are shortened, which can grow up to 2 meters per season, up to 15 cm from the base. And during the summer, pinch out growths up to 15 cm, as in the picture.
Every year after flowering, it is important to prune last year's shoots, short, 4 buds. This will contribute to the laying of flower buds, and flowering next year will be plentiful. While the shoots are growing, they need to be pinched a couple of times so that the side shoots begin to grow.