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Avoid This Common Fungal Disease
By
Marie Iannotti
Marie Iannotti
Marie Iannotti is a life-long gardener and a veteran Master Gardener with nearly three decades of experience.
She's also an author of three gardening books, a plant photographer, public speaker, and a former Cornell Cooperative Extension Horticulture Educator. Marie's garden writing has been featured in newspapers and magazines nationwide and she has been interviewed for Martha Stewart Radio, National Public Radio, and numerous articles.
Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process
Updated on 10/10/21
Reviewed by
Kathleen Miller
Reviewed by Kathleen Miller
Kathleen Miller is a highly-regarded Master Gardener and Horticulturist who shares her knowledge of sustainable living, organic gardening, farming, and landscape design. She founded Gaia's Farm and Gardens, a working sustainable permaculture farm, and writes for Gaia Grows, a local newspaper column. She has over 30 years of experience in gardening and sustainable farming.
Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board
The Spruce / Adrienne Legault
Early blight is a common tomato disease caused by the fungus Alternaria solani.
It can affect almost all parts of the tomato plants, including the leaves, stems, and fruits. The plants may not die, but they will be weakened and will set fewer tomatoes than normal. Early blight generally attacks older plants, but it can also occur on seedlings. Stressed plants or plants in poor health are especially susceptible. Early blight is also a problem with potatoes.
Early blight is a difficult enough disease to deal with, but don't confuse it with the much more problematic late blight that can quickly kill tomato plants and spread for miles.
What Causes Early Blight
The early blight fungus can come from many sources. It can be in the soil, or it can already be on seeds or seedlings you purchase. It can even over-winter in the diseased debris of your tomato plants and it can persist in the soil or debris for at least one year. Although early blight can occur in any type of weather, it favors damp conditions, like frequent rain or even heavy dews.
Symptoms of Early Blight on Tomatoes
Early blight is sometimes confused with Septoria leaf spot.
They both form spots on the leaves, which eventually turn yellow and die off, but Septoria also forms fruiting bodies that look like tiny filaments coming from the spots.
On Older Plants: Dark spots with concentric rings develop on older leaves first. The surrounding leaf area may turn yellow. Affected leaves may die prematurely, exposing the fruits to sun scald.
Dark lesions on the stems start off small and slightly sunken. As they get larger, they elongate and you will start to see concentric markings like the spots on the leaves. Spots that form near ground level can cause some girdling of the stem or collar rot. Plants may survive, but they will not thrive or produce many tomatoes.
On Tomato Fruits: If early blight gets on the fruits, spots will begin at the stem end, forming a dark, leathery, sunken area with concentric rings. Both green and ripe tomatoes can be affected.
On Seedlings: Affected seedlings will have dark spots on their leaves and stems.
They may even develop the disease on their cotyledon leaves. Stems often wind up girdled.
Management and Control of Early Blight of Tomatoes
There are some tomato varieties that offer some resistance to early blight, although none are fully immune to it. Even if you buy a resistant variety, early blight is a very common problem with tomato plants and you may not be able to avoid it completely. These measures, however, can help you keep it under control.
- Certified Seed: Buy seeds and seedlings from reputable sources and inspect all plants before putting them in your garden.
- Air Circulation: Provide plenty of space for the plants. Good airflow will help keep the plants dry.
- Fungicides: Keep tabs on your plants, especially during wet weather or if your plants become stressed. If you see signs of blight on a single plant, removing the plant is your best option. Fungicides containing the active ingredients Penthiopyrad or Boscalid will be most effective.
- Garden Sanitation: Since early blight can over-winter on plant debris and in the soil, sanitation is essential. So many tomato diseases can come into your garden this way so it's very important to clean up all plant residue at the end of the season.
- Rotate Crops: If you have an outbreak of early blight, find somewhere else to plant your tomatoes next year, even if it's in containers.
Tomato Varieties With Some Resistance to Early Blight
All of these varieties are somewhat resistant to early blight, but none is completely immune.
- Aunt Ginny's Purple - Heirloom, indeterminate, beefsteak (16 oz.)
- Big Rainbow - Heirloom, indeterminate, bi-color beefsteak (16 oz.)
- Black Plum - Heirloom, indeterminate, plum (2 in.)
- Juliet - Hybrid, indeterminate, cherry (1 ounce)
- Legend - Open-pollinated, determinate, beefsteak (14-16 ounces)
- Manyel - Heirloom, indeterminate, yellow globe (8-10 ounces)
- Matt’s Wild Cherry - Heirloom, indeterminate, cherry (1/2 inch)
- Mountain Supreme - Hybrid, determinate, globe (6-8 oz.
) - Mountain Fresh Plus - Hybrid, determinate, globe (12 ounces)
- Old Brooks - Heirloom, indeterminate, globe (6-8 ounces)
- Tigerella (aka Mr. Stripey) - Heirloom, indeterminate, globe (4-6 oz.)
- Tommy Toe - Heirloom, indeterminate, cherry (1 inch)
Article Sources
The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.
University of Minnesota Extension Office. “Early Blight of Tomato.” Umn.edu. N.p., n.d. Web.
Top rot of tomatoes - prevention and control methods. Photo — Botanichka
Tomato is one of the most common vegetable crops on our plots. The crop is grown not only in open ground, it also works well in protected ground, so you can get an earlier harvest of tomatoes.
And although plant care is not difficult, and yields are often high, gardeners often face such a problem as tomato blossom end rot. This disease can cause significant damage to crops. So let's talk about top rot today and talk. nine0003 Top rot of tomatoes - prevention and control methods. © Sao Mai Center
Contents:
- Tomato blossom end rot causes
- How to understand that tomatoes are infected?
- How to treat blossom end rot of tomatoes?
- Blossom rot prevention
Causes of blossom end rot of tomatoes
The disease is very active both in greenhouses and in the open field, causing serious damage to the crop. nine0003
The disease can affect the tomato due to incorrect agricultural practices. Most often, blossom end rot on tomatoes appears due to increased temperature outside the window or due to too hot air in the greenhouse. As a result of elevated temperature, tomato plants begin to evaporate moisture from the surface of the leaves, as well as plant trunks, as intensively as possible.
If the gardener does not understand in a timely manner that the temperature is critical and the plants suffer from it, and does not begin to moisten the soil, supplying water through the root system to the plants, then they will begin to absorb moisture from the fruits that begin to actively form by that time. nine0003
Such, in fact, unnatural processes will lead to the fact that the vast majority of tomato fruit cells will simply die and blossom-end rot of this plant will begin to actively develop. To cure it is quite problematic, but to prevent the occurrence of this disease is much easier.
But these are not all the reasons for the development of tomato blossom end rot. This disease can develop very quickly and actively proceed due to an excess or lack of calcium in the earth, a large amount of nitrogen in the soil, and also if the soil has high acidity. nine0003 Blossom end rot develops due to a lack of calcium in the ground, a large amount of nitrogen in the soil and its high acidity.
© Stillwater News Press
How do you know if a tomato is infested?
To start treating tomatoes, you need to know the very first and often the most important signs of the development of blossom end rot. The unripe fruits of the third or second brush are most often subject to blossom end rot. Usually you can notice something wrong by paying attention to the very tops of the fruits, where you can even see with the naked eye completely flat or slightly depressed spots. nine0003
Initially, when the spots are not yet very large, they are painted in a darkish-greenish color, and with a strong development of the disease, and accordingly, with the growth of spots, their color becomes grayish-brown, and as soon as the spores ripen, ready to scatter over long distances, their color becomes black.
As soon as the fruits are affected by blossom end rot, their growth is immediately inhibited and their deformation begins. It will take only a couple of days, and the skin of the fetus will begin to dry out, and then crack.
It was then that a putrefactive infection penetrates into these cracks and begins to actively develop there. Mushrooms of the Alternaria genus usually settle in cracks, their vital activity leads to the fact that the pulp of tomatoes becomes literally black and begins to rot sharply. nine0003
It is interesting that those fruits of tomatoes, which are affected by blossom end rot, stain (ripen) in a color typical for the variety, usually much faster than their healthy counterparts, but immediately after ripening they crumble to the ground. Such fruits cannot be eaten fresh, they cannot be used for processed products, even if you cut off the affected area of \u200b\u200bthe fruit, and of course, you should not choose seeds from them for further sowing next year.
How to treat blossom end rot of tomatoes? nine0019
If preventive measures have not helped and the tomatoes are infected with blossom end rot, the very first thing to do is to pick and burn all affected tomatoes.
Infected leaves and shoots should also go into the firebox.
As for the treatment of blossom end rot of tomatoes in the greenhouse and in the open field, there are no fundamental differences. In most cases, as soon as the earth, and then the plant, is saturated with enough calcium, blossom end rot sharply slows down in its development, and then stops completely. nine0003
It is possible to saturate tomato plants with calcium very quickly by applying foliar dressings, for which it is best to use calcium sulfate. This fertilizer does not contain harmful chlorine, it is highly soluble in water. Therefore, it is enough to pour a teaspoon of this fertilizer into a bucket of water, mix everything thoroughly, refill the spray gun and the plants can be processed, trying, of course, to get first of all on the affected fruits, but do not forget about the rest of the plant.
By the way, such treatments should be carried out in the evening, and if it rains during the day, the treatments must be repeated the next evening.
If you want to speed up the intake of calcium into plants as much as possible, then you can add a little ordinary boric acid to the solution, for example, only 9 grams of boric acid is needed per ten liters of solution.
To completely get rid of blossom end rot on tomatoes, a single treatment is definitely not enough, they will need to be carried out every week, combining foliar top dressing with abundant watering of the earth, watering under the root. nine0003
There are also quite effective folk remedies to combat blossom end rot, for example, treating tomato plants with an extract of wood ash or soot. To do this, pour a full faceted glass of wood ash or soot into a larger container and pour a liter of boiling water, then let it brew for 24 hours, then strain and dilute ten times with water. It is desirable to add 15 g of soda to the solution and treat the plants with this composition every week.
All affected fruit must be destroyed. © thegardentroubadourPrevention of blossom end rot
Preventive measures apply to any disease, and tomato blossom end rot is no exception. Prevention is much better than medication. The complex of preventive measures is quite extensive, and it begins with the preparation of seed material for sowing in the ground, and ends with the harvesting of tomatoes.
But before starting to process the seeds in the appropriate ways, we advise you to purchase new varieties that are resistant to diseases and pests, including drought and excess moisture. By purchasing a variety whose fruit ripens early and is large in size, with maximum growth energy, you risk the most, because such a plant requires more nutrients, and the surface of the fruit itself is larger and the likelihood that even a small crack will form on it - significantly higher. nine0003
Now about the disinfection of seed material: usually tomato seeds are treated in a solution of "potassium permanganate" or iron sulphate.
Potassium permanganate is better to cook stronger - it is advisable to make a 2.5-3% solution of this "drug", then place the seeds there in a gauze bag and keep them in the solution for thirty minutes.
After this time, the tomato seeds should be washed in running water for a couple of minutes and dried.
If your choice fell on the composition of ferrous sulfate, then you need to dilute it in the following proportion: first, dilute a gram of the drug in a liter of water, then place the seeds in this composition in a gauze bag for a day, and then, without washing the seed material with water, bring it to a loose state (drying). nine0003
Prophylaxis related to soil preparation
To protect yourself from possible attacks of rot, which will lead to the formation of blossom end rot of tomato fruits, it is necessary to lime the earth well with chalk or dolomite flour, or even slaked lime - the latter, as you know, perfectly reduces acidity soil. Per square meter you need 50 g of chalk, 300 g of dolomite flour or 200 grams of lime.
Then, already when planting tomato seedlings in the ground, half a glass of wood ash or wood soot should be placed in each hole. nine0003 One of the methods to prevent blossom end rot is proper watering.
© Nature Bring
Moisture in the prevention of tomato blossom end rot?
Prevention is not only the introduction of the necessary elements into the soil or the treatment of seeds, but also such a simple event as watering, however, timely and correct. The fact is that in a drought, the roots of a tomato plant cease to absorb calcium, its deficiency occurs, and hence all the troubles appear.
Gardeners have noticed an interesting feature: tomato plants absorb calcium better at night, so watering must be done in the evening so that the plant is properly saturated with calcium from the ground during the night. And so that even in the morning hours the moisture still remains in the soil, it is necessary after each watering to mulch the top layer with humus (a layer of a couple of centimeters). nine0003
Conclusion. So, if you have blossom end rot on your tomatoes, then in no case should you panic. We have given exhaustive answers, where it comes from, how to avoid its occurrence and how to deal with it with chemical and folk remedies.
Now the top rot of tomatoes will definitely not be terrible for you, or rather, for tomatoes growing on your site.
Tomato blossom end rot control measures, photo and video
Contents:
Causes of blossom end rot development on tomatoes
Primary signs of infection
Prevention of blossom end rot of tomatoes
Treatment of blossom end rot of tomatoes
Tomato blossom end rot - symptoms, treatment
Blossom rot affects both outdoor and greenhouse tomatoes equally. It appears due to improper agricultural practices and refers to the physiological diseases of tomatoes.
Causes of blossom end rot on tomatoes
Lack of moisture and hot air lead to intensive evaporation of liquid from the leaves and trunk. If during this period moisture is not provided through the root system, the plant begins to suck it out of the fruit. As a result, part of the fruit cells die and tomato blossom end rot develops, the treatment of which is much more difficult and labor-intensive than the prevention of infection. nine0003
Other causes of blossom end rot in tomatoes include:
- Deficiency or excess of calcium;
- Excess nitrogen;
- High acidity of the soil.
Primary signs of infection
In order to start the treatment of blossom end rot of tomatoes in time, it is important to know the characteristic signs of this disease. The most susceptible to infection are unripe fruits of the second and third brushes. The first symptoms appear on the tips (tops) of the fruit in the form of flat or depressed liquid spots. The color of the spots is initially dark green, and with the development of the disease it changes to gray-brown, up to black. nine0003
First signs of blossom end rot on tomatoes
Infected fruits stop growing and quickly become deformed. Over time, the skin on the spot dries up and cracks, and the disease penetrates the fetus. Mushrooms of the genus Alternaria can settle on areas affected by vertex rot, due to which the pulp of tomatoes darkens and rots.
Fruits affected by blossom end rot ripen faster than others and fall off the branches. It is impossible to use them fresh or for processing, as well as collect seed material from them. nine0003
Tomatoes affected by blossom end rot not fit for consumption
Prevention of blossom end rot of tomatoes
Tomato blossom end rot control includes a set of measures from preparing seeds for sowing to harvesting.
Choose resistant varieties
Most often, tomato disease - top rot affects early ripe and large-fruited varieties with high growth vigor. Of the varieties resistant to the disease, it should be noted: Bolshevik, Raisa, Pharaoh, Pandarosa, Benito, White filling. nine0003
Presowing seed disinfection
The fight against blossom end rot of tomatoes begins with presowing seed treatment. For pickling, a solution of potassium permanganate or iron sulfate is used.
Tomato seed dressing is the best prevention of blossom end rot
In saturated 3% potassium permanganate, the planting material is soaked for about half an hour, after which it is washed with warm running water and dried to a loose state.
For dressing seeds, iron sulfate is dissolved in the ratio: 1 g of the drug per 1 liter of water. The seeds are soaked for 24 hours and then dried. nine0003
Soil preparation
To protect against infection with tomato rot, the soil is limed with chalk, dolomite flour or slaked lime - this is necessary to lower the level of acidity. When planting seedlings, it is advisable to add a glass of ash to each well.
Regular watering
When growing tomatoes, it is important to ensure timely watering. Drought reduces the supply of calcium to the plant, which provokes the development of blossom end rot. Given that calcium is better absorbed at night, it is advisable to water in the evening. Mulch will help retain moisture in the soil for a longer time. nine0003
Tomato blossom end rot treatment
When signs of rot are found on the top of the fruit, it is worth immediately starting to treat the plants. First of all, you need to remove the affected fruits and leaves of tomatoes, and destroy them outside the site.
Blossom rot on tomatoes, the treatment of which is no different in the open field and in the greenhouse, stops spreading if the plant is saturated with calcium. For this, foliar top dressing is carried out with calcium nitrate (7-10 g per 10 l of water) or potassium chloride (30 g per 10 l of water). nine0003
Treatment of blossom end rot of tomatoes by spraying with calcium nitrate
The addition of boric acid to the solution (10 g per 10 liters of water) will help to enhance the effect of calcium. You can also use the drug "Brexil Ca", in which calcium and boron are in their natural form. Processing should be carried out every 10-15 days after abundant watering.
You can also fight blossom end rot on tomatoes with folk methods:
- Spray with an extract of wood ash (pour 1 cup of ash with a liter of boiling water and infuse for a day, then strain and bring the volume to 10 liters with cold water)
- Treat with soda solution (dissolve 20 g of soda in 10 liters of warm water).
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