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Are peach trees easy to grow


How to Grow and Care for Peach Trees

Every year, the Environmental Working Group publishes a list of the "dirty dozen" produce items that contain the most pesticide residue, and peaches are usually on that list. If you want to enjoy this delicious fruit, why not consider growing organic peaches? You don't need the tropical temperatures necessary for citrus fruits like lemons, and you can opt for flavorful thin-skinned types that are too delicate to make it to supermarket shelves.

There are dozens of peach trees varieties, even dwarf cultivars that you can grow in a container, so you can grow a peach crop for cobblers, jams and jellies, smoothies, or salsa.

When grown from seed, peach trees take at least three to four years to produce fruit. Purchasing a young tree means you can enjoy a harvest sooner. Plant your peach tree during late winter or early spring, during its dormancy period.

All parts of the peach tree, except for the edible fruit, are toxic to humans and pets.

Common Name Peach
Botanical Name Prunus persica
Family Rosaceae
Plant Type Fruit tree
Mature Size 4 to 6 ft. for dwarf trees; 25 ft. for standard trees
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, well-draining
Soil pH Acidic (6.0 to 6.5)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Pink
Hardiness Zones 5a-9a, USDA
Native Area China
Toxicity Stems, leaves, and pits are toxic to humans and pets

How to Plant Peach Trees

The best time to plant a peach tree is in the late winter or early spring while the tree is dormant. That way it has the entire growing season to get established.

Select a cultivar suited to your climate and plant it in a sunny, sheltered location. A slightly elevated site is better than a depression where frost settles.

For a bare-root tree, make sure that the hole you dig is large enough to give the roots plenty of room to spread. Water it deeply and consider mulching around the root zone to seal in that moisture.

Stake the tree immediately after planting. Slightly angle the stake away from the tree and drive it six to eight inches into the undisturbed soil, never into the root ball. Secure the trunk to the stake with an elastic tree tie.

Peach trees are self-fertile, so you don't need to plant more than one to produce fruit. If you want to start a mini orchard, make sure they have the proper spacing to prevent them from shading each other at maturity. Plant standard peaches 18 feet apart, and dwarf peaches five feet apart.

Peach Tree Care

Light

Peach trees need full sun. Those grown in shade lose their vigor, making them susceptible to pest and disease problems.

Soil

Peach trees need good drainage, and like their soil on the sandy side. Adding an organic mulch around the tree, like leaf mold or compost, helps suppress weeds and keeps the soil healthy and slightly acidic.

Water

Keep peach trees evenly moist, especially in the first two years as they establish themselves.

Temperature and Humidity

Peaches like moderate temperatures and generally grow best in USDA growing zones 5a to 8a. However, you can select more cold or heat-tolerant varieties to expand the growing zone to include zones 4 and 9.

Peaches need at least 600 chilling hours at 45 degrees Fahrenheit or lower to trigger fruiting. Extended temperatures below zero may damage the trees. Peaches tolerate humid conditions, but excessive wetness can encourage fungal diseases.

Fertilizer

Apply a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer around your peach trees each spring. Start with one pound for each new tree, and add one pound each year, up to 10 pounds, for standard mature peach trees.

The Spruce / Kara Riley The Spruce / Kara Riley Tan Le/Getty Images S847/Getty Images  The Spruce / Kara Riley

Peach Trees Varieties

There are hundreds of peach cultivars to choose from. While peach trees can produce clingstone or freestone fruits, most varieties sold for home gardens are freestone. You can also choose between yellow or white flesh and early or late-bearing peach trees.

Peach Trees vs. Nectarine Trees

Peach and nectarine trees are the same species—Prunus persica. The nectarine fruit is fuzz-free and somewhat smaller and sweeter than the peach. Peach trees may sometimes grow nectarines, and nectarine trees may grow peaches. Professional growers control their crops by graftingbranches that previously produced nectarines onto peach trees. Fuzziness is a dominant trait, but if your peach trees decide to go rogue and produce a nectarine crop, consider it a two-for-one bonus.

Harvesting

A young tree (not grown from seed) starts to bear fruit two to four years after planting. Following their showy pink spring blooms, peach trees will develop many tiny green peaches in the early summer months. In addition to the natural fruit drop that occurs at this stage of development, you must also thin the crop, or you'll face the disappointment of walnut-sized fruit at harvest time. Remove all but the largest fruits from each branch, leaving at least six inches between fruits.

How to Grow Peach Trees in Pots

Dwarf peach trees make great container specimens. Choose a container at least three feet across. Never let your peach tree container dry out and protect it from hard freezes in a sheltered area like a garage or shed.

Pruning

It may seem strange removing healthy branches from a thick, bushy peach tree, but proper pruning is vital for managing the fruit size and ensuring enough light is received on fruit-bearing branches. When pruning a peach tree, the finished look of the branches should have a herringbone pattern with an open center, like a vase.

While pruning should be done in late winter, you can also do some light summer shearing if the tree has vigorous shoots that shade fruiting branches in the tree's interior. The amount of light that you allow to reach fruiting branches following pruning is important for the development of next season's flower buds.

Click Play to Learn How to Prune Peach Trees

Propagating

The easiest way to propagate a non-grafted tree is through softwood cuttings. Take a nine-inch cutting in the spring when growth is soft and green. Dip it in rooting hormone to help the cutting take, plant the cutting in a sterile potting medium, and keep it moist. Roots should form in around a month.

How to Grow Peach Trees From Seed

Peach pits will grow outdoors with little intervention. Plant the seed outdoors about three inches deep in the fall. Cold winter temperatures will allow the embryo to mature. The seed will germinate in the spring, and you can transplant your young tree to its permanent location.

Common Pests and Diseases

The most significant peach tree pest is the peach tree borer. This clearwing moth resembles a wasp and deposits its eggs on tree bark in the fall. The grubs hatch and burrow into the trunk, where they feed on the trunk and roots. Look for a jelly-like sap at the entry hole, and impale grubs with a wire.

In terms of diseases, a fungus can cause peach tree leaf curl, leading to leaf browning and deformity. Use a copper-based fungicide in late fall or early spring to prevent and control this issue.

Article Sources

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

  1. Prunus persica. NC State University Cooperative Extension.

  2. Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants; Peach. ASPCA.

  3. Home Garden Peaches. University of Georgia Extension

  4. Peach Diseases. Clemson University Extension Service

How Fast Does Peach Trees Grow?

If you’re impatient and want to grow a fruit tree quickly, you’ve come to the right place. Growing peach trees isn’t a quick process, and it won’t produce fruit in the first year.

Usually, it takes about three to four years for a peach tree to reach maturity. You can, however, start a peach tree from seed and enjoy fruit within three to four years.

Once the tree is planted, make sure to water it thoroughly.

Mulch the trunk and create a 3- to 6-inch berm around the root zone.

Prune the peach tree every year to keep it at a healthy height and to remove side branches.

Trimming the tree regularly will ensure a higher-quality crop.

Once your peach tree reaches a height of 10 feet (3 m), fertilize it with a 10-10-10 fertilizer.

A standard peach tree can reach twenty feet in height, but dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties can be much shorter. While a young peach tree will take two to four years to produce fruit, it’s not mature enough to handle the weight of the fruit.

If you want to harvest your peach berries sooner, you’ll have to prune the entire tree. Once the tree has reached its maximum size, you can harvest its fruit.

How quickly do peach trees grow?

Once planted, peach trees should grow quickly. For this reason, you should stake your tree in the first year of its life.

In strong winds, young saplings can get bent and may grow at an angle.

Extreme winds can damage the roots. Fruit tree fertilizer spikes can be applied to your tree to improve its growth.

These spikes release fertilizer slowly to the tree and make it grow faster.

As for their life span, peach trees can live for 15 to 20 years. However, their productivity peaks during the fourth to eighth years.

After this time, their growth slows down and they produce fewer fruits. In addition, peach trees can live up to twelve or more decades before bearing fruit. Fortunately, the average lifespan of peach trees is still quite long compared to other fruits.

Peach trees need about twelve to 24 inches of growth per year. To ensure a consistent crop, fertilize your peach tree with a natural organic fertilizer at the start of spring.

This will help them grow more vigorously. Pruning can help encourage new growth and improve the quality of fruit production.

You should prune your tree to promote better fruiting and air movement around the center of the tree. To stimulate new growth, prune the branches in late summer or early fall.

How much do peach trees grow in a year?

You may be wondering, “How much do peach trees grow in a calendar year?” The answer to this question depends on several factors.

One of these is the variety of the peach tree you have. Different varieties have different number of main branches. Some have three main limbs, while others have four or five.

The main reason for this difference is that the peach trees with three main limbs look more uniform. However, if you want to grow more fruits, you should prune the tree every third year.

The average peach tree does not produce fruit in its first year.

It typically takes three or four years after planting to start to produce a reasonable crop.

A peach tree’s fruit production starts in the early spring, when it produces beautiful pink flowers and tiny green peaches.

But you should watch out for this growth, because the trees naturally drop the fruit.

You will need to thin the crop every year. Remove only the largest branches from the tree and leave at least six inches of space between the fruits.

If you live in a cold climate, it is important to plant peach trees in the southern half of your climate. If the winters are cold, the fruit will not grow properly.

This is especially true if you are planting your peach tree in the northern half. The temperature of your area will affect how much your tree grows. It is best to plant peach trees that will thrive in your local area.

How long does a peach tree take to fruit?

Before peaches are produced, peach trees flower. The flower contains pistils and stamens that pollinate the peach. Once a flower has been pollinated, the fruit produces seeds.

When picking peaches, it is best to pick them when they are ripe. The unripe ones should be left on the tree to mature. However, if you see some peeling or browning, it is best to discard them.

Peach trees usually begin producing fruit between two and four years of age.

In the eighth year, they reach a peak yield. Afterwards, production decreases.

A healthy peach tree will be fruitful throughout its life. Here are some tips to help your peach tree bear fruit: Ensure that the soil is warm and rich in organic matter. Also, avoid over fertilizing your peach tree.

Pruning is an important step in the growth cycle of a peach tree.

While light pruning can be done at any time, heavy pruning is best performed in the spring, when the peach tree breaks dormancy. By removing old wood from the tree, it will stimulate new wood lower on the tree.

The goal is to make the tree produce fruit for its second year. A healthy peach tree should produce fruit only in the second year.

Peach - cultivation and care. Planting, reproduction, protection. Varieties for different regions. Photo — Botanichka

Peach is an ancient culture native to northern China. The main peach plantations are concentrated in the subtropics and warm regions of the Caucasus, European and Asian states. The peach culture stepped into the expanses of the southern and some middle regions in the second half of the last century. There is a real peach boom going on right now. Many gardeners prefer peaches to apricots. Peaches are more hardy during spring return frosts. The advantages of peach include the possibility of obtaining a full-fledged crop with the inheritance of maternal characteristics (large fruit, pulp taste, aroma, etc.) when propagated by seeds. nine0003 Peach tree with fruits. © M. Denise Wilmer Barreto

Health Benefits of Peach

Sweet and sour, honey-sweet peach flesh, tender and aromatic, is not only delicious, but also medicinal. These fruits are high in vitamins, sugars, pectin and organic acids, including quinic, tartaric, citric, and malic. Pectins and antioxidants protect the body from aging. High content of B vitamins, A, PP, K, C, E, a fairly large list of minerals, including potassium, magnesium, iron, copper, calcium, sodium, zinc, fluorine, manganese, selenium, silicon, chlorine, phosphorus, aluminum, sulfur, contribute to the resistance to various diseases, including anemia. nine0003

Doctors prescribe peach juice for anemia and heart rhythm disorders, gastrointestinal diseases, neurodermatitis, asthma, influenza and many other diseases. The iodine contained in peach fruits contributes to the normalization of the thyroid gland, which is responsible for the body's immune system. From the seeds, peach oil is obtained, which is used in the manufacture of cosmetics and medicines.

Briefly about the botanical characteristics of peach

Garden or cultivar varieties of peach, which are descended from the common peach (Persica vulgaris), are mainly grown in dachas. These are woody or shrubby forms of perennial fruit crops. Usually 3 - 4 meters in height, but some varieties can grow up to 8-9m. The peach root system does not go deeper into the soil more than 60-70 cm and therefore the crop needs to be watered in dry hot weather.

Skeletal branches of the peach crown have a large angle of deviation from the main trunk, which contributes to the formation of a wide spreading crown. This feature must be taken into account when planting plants. Peaches don't like thickening.

Peach belongs to the group of cross pollinated plants and needs a partner. To get full yields in the country, you need to plant several different varieties. Fruiting begins in the 2nd - 3rd year and lasts up to 20 years with proper care. nine0003

The fruits of some varieties of peach reach a mass of 150-200 g of pulp of different colors (from white to yellow and yellow-orange) and fruit colors - from white, pink, yellow with colored red cheeks to red-carmine. When planting different varieties of peach (early, medium, late), fresh fruits can be obtained from July to the end of September. The keeping quality of fruits is determined by the biological properties of the variety, but does not differ in duration.

According to biological features, peaches are divided into 2 varieties. nine0003

Planting peach seedlings by region

Farming peach in country conditions is somewhat different from cultivation in industrial quantities, mainly in terms of protection against diseases and pests. nine0003

Peach is a southern plant, belongs to warm and sun-loving crops. The crown and root system are frosted over at frosts of -15 ..-20 ° С. With return spring frosts, last year's growth freezes over, but quickly recovers. Peach grows best and bears fruit in areas with a warm climate and a large number of sunny days a year.

Planted peach trees. © Larry Reynolds

Southern regions

In the southern regions, it is better to plant peach seedlings in autumn in September-October. Weather conditions allow the seedling to adapt to a new planting site before the onset of cold weather, grow young roots, and prepare for an active life when spring comes. nine0003

If peach seedlings are planted in the south in spring, they most often fall under the hot May-June sun. Dry air and the sun's rays dry out the kidneys, the bark and subcortical layers coarsen and dry out. To save the spring planting (and at this time there are a lot of other works in the garden and in the garden), you need to protect the peach seedling from the sun's rays with any breathable shelter, spray it with water (not cold), and keep the soil constantly moist, that is, water it 2 once a week. Over time, the shelter is removed, watering is transferred to a one-time per week and the young leaves are sprayed with cineb or 1% Bordeaux mixture. During autumn planting, blossoming peach leaves are also sprayed with this composition. This technique prevents the appearance of leaf curl. nine0003

Regions of the middle and northern lanes

In the middle lane, peach seedlings can be planted in autumn and spring, depending on the weather. With the onset of early cold weather with prolonged rains, it is better to dig in the seedlings and plant them in the spring, as soon as the spring frosts have passed. The soil in the upper layer should warm up to + 12 .. + 15 ° С.

To the north, frost-resistant varieties of peaches take root normally only during spring plantings. Moreover, there is no need to rush to plant young trees early. The soil and air should be warm enough. Having become stronger during the spring-summer period, peaches more easily endure the winter cold in the middle regions and the northern regions adjacent to them. When grown in cold areas, peaches are covered for the winter. nine0003

Purchase and preparation of peach seedlings for planting

1-2 year old peach seedlings provide a high survival rate. Their height ranges from 1.0 to 1.5 meters, the stem in circumference is 1.5-2.0 cm. On the trunk and side shoots, the bark should be smooth, uniform, without gum dots, which after 1-2 years can infect the plant with gum disease.

If peach seedlings are planted in spring in a permanent place, then already on the market the seller can cut the root system and shorten the trunk to 80-90 cm, and side shoots by 1/3. At night, the seedling is placed in a container with a root (you can use another available stimulant) and planted on the second day.

When peach is planted in autumn, the root system is shortened and the aerial part is not touched. The crown in this case is cut in the spring of next year. If 2-4-year-old peach seedlings with normally developed leaves are purchased, it is advisable to cut them off. Reception is necessary so as not to dry out the main trunk and side shoots until the root system of the planted seedling is working. nine0003

Soil preparation and peach planting rules

Planting pits for planting peach seedlings are prepared 4-6 months in advance, placing them every 3-4-5 m, depending on the variety type. Thickened plantings form a low-quality crop in taste and often get sick. The pit is dug 40x40x40 or other sizes. Finally, the volume of the planting pit is prepared for the size of the root system of the purchased seedling.

Peaches can grow on any type of soil except saline and acidic. In heavy soils, add 1-2 buckets of humus or 0.5-1.0 bucket of mature compost and up to 100 g of nitrophoska or other complex mineral fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. The introduced humus will increase the air and water permeability of clay soils. If the soil is light, you can use up to 1 bucket of humus or only mineral fertilizers. nine0003

Drive a 1.0-1.5 meter wooden stake into the middle of the prepared pit, or preferably a flat support 1-2 cm wide. When planting, the peach seedling must be positioned relative to the support so that it shaded the young plant during the day from the sun's rays. At the bottom of the pit, drainage is formed from crushed stone, sand and other small materials up to 10-15 cm high so that water does not stagnate, and a mound of prepared soil is poured. The roots of the seedling are straightened along the mound, covered up to 2/3 with soil, slightly compressed and a bucket of settled water is poured. After soaking, the pit is completely filled up. nine0003

When planting, the root collar should be 3-4 cm above the ground. Some gardeners recommend deepening the root collar to this depth. When freezing from the scion shoots, you can form a new crown or switch to a bushy form of growing a crop. A 5-6 cm shaft is formed around the planted seedling and another 1-2 buckets of water are poured. After water has been absorbed, the soil is mulched without closing the bole. During the spring planting of a peach, the buds swell within a month, the leaves unfold. Sometimes a peach seedling does not “wake up”, but the stem remains elastic, the bark does not change color. In this state, the seedling can “sleep” until the next spring, and then begin normal development. nine0003 Peach tree sapling

Peach care

Watering and fertilizing

Post-plant care needs special attention in the first 2-3 years. Watering without stagnant water should be carried out 2 times a month, top dressing - 2 times during the growing season. The first feeding of peaches is carried out before flowering in the budding phase with a complete mineral fertilizer. Use nitrophoska, nitroammophoska, urea, kemira and other fats at the rate of 30-40 g under a tree; the second top dressing - after July 15-20 with a phosphorus-potassium mixture, respectively, 50 and 25 g under the tree of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. You can repeat the introduction of Kemira, nitrophoska. nine0003

With the onset of fruiting, the number of peach dressings is increased to three. The rate of solid fertilizers is gradually increased to 150-200 g each under a tree. Fertilizers are scattered along the edge of the crown for digging or brought into dug grooves, holes, followed by closure, watering and mulching. One of the top dressings is usually carried out by spraying the tree crown with microelements or by adding a glass of wood ash for irrigation. It is carried out at the beginning of fruit growth, shifting the introduction of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to the beginning of ripening. Humus, compost, chicken manure (in solution) are applied in autumn or spring once every 3-4 years, 1-2 buckets each. In the year of organic matter introduction, nitrogen fertilizers are not used for top dressing. nine0003

Fruiting peaches are sprayed annually before bud break and after leaf fall with a 2-3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. You can use cineb or other preparations containing copper or zinc for spraying. It is useful to spray peaches during the growing season with boric acid or ash extract (a glass / bucket of water). Potassium permanganate and a few drops of iodine can be added to boric acid.

Peach crown formation and annual pruning

Formative peach pruning begins the year following planting. When forming a cup-shaped wide crown, pruning is carried out in March. On the central peach stem, all side shoots are cut to a height of 40-50 cm. A tree stem is formed. Above the trunk, 3-6 shoots are left - these are the future skeletal branches of the first order. Above these branches, the central trunk is removed. The following year, second-order shoots will form on them. The rest of the shoots, especially those growing inward and thickening, are cut into a ring. Shoots of the 1st and 2nd orders are cut to 50-60 cm. On the remaining part of the peach skeletal branches of any order, young shoots grow during the warm season, forming the crop for the next year. These shoots are called fruiting shoots. Fruiting shoots are left after 15-20 cm, the rest are cut into a ring. If you leave a denser arrangement, the crop will be small-fruited. nine0003

There is another scheme for the formation of a peach tree. It is called "formation according to the principle of the fruit link." Use this method of crown formation more often in cold areas. The formed link can be tilted to the ground and covered for the winter. The planting pattern is called "meadow garden". Landing pattern thickened. The distance between rows is 2 m, in a row 0.5 m. Each peach tree forms up to 15 fruits.

When forming a fruit link, the crown, as such, is absent. In the first year after planting, the peach is not pruned. It grows freely, forms a large number of shoots. Seedlings are fed and watered in a timely manner, mulched. nine0003

In the second year, in April, a peach seedling is cut at a height of 10 cm from the soil, leaving the 2 most developed stems located closer to the ground. One will be the main for fruiting, and the second spare. In summer, thinning is carried out densely located on these 2 branches of lateral shoots, you can shorten them. In this case, the lower 2 do not touch. In autumn, after leaf fall, the peach shoot, left as a spare, is cut to 2 lower branches, and the second is left for fruiting. The following year, in the fall, the fruiting shoot is removed, and the 2 lowest shoots are left on the spare and the rest of the growth is removed. That is, every year they form a fruit link. nine0003

Recently, more and more gardeners are turning to growing peach in the form of a bush. This form is most convenient in cold regions. Peach is easy to shelter from winter frosts. They form an above-ground mass of 4-5 to 10 most developed shoots. The rest are cut out. On each shoot, shoots of this year are left, which will form a crop next year. Old branches that practically do not form a crop are periodically removed.

Peach fruits on the tree. © Jessica

Propagation of peach in the country

Peaches in the dacha are propagated by grafted seedlings purchased from the relevant companies and seeds.

Moreover, the second is the most common technique that does not require complex manipulations during planting and growing seedlings. Seed propagation of peach is beneficial in that trees grow more resistant to the vagaries of weather and disease. With seed propagation, not all planted seeds can form a culture with maternal characteristics. The ovary in peaches is formed as a result of cross-pollination, and some of the seeds may bear signs of a rootstock. To reduce the selection error, a large number of seeds must be sown. When the first leaves appear on the seedlings, those with a wider leaf blade should be selected. Of course, this is not 100% reliable, but still there is a possibility of selection. When sowing in pots, not one peach seed is also sown, but 3-4, and after germination, 1 strongest seedling is left, and the rest are cut off at the soil surface. nine0003

Peach seeds in open ground in the southern regions are sown from October 15 to November 10-15. Previously, the bones are scarified or soaked for 2-3 days in warm water, which is changed daily. For planting seeds, zoned peach varieties are chosen, which is especially important in the middle lane. Seeds of such varieties will be a guarantee of obtaining a crop that forms a crop and is resistant to climatic conditions. Under shelter, plants will freeze less. Imported varieties that are not adapted to our climate may turn out to be barren or freeze out in the first winter. In order for peaches to successfully develop and form a high-quality crop, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of agricultural technology and cover the crop for the period of cold weather. nine0003

A sunny place is chosen for the school, the soil is fertilized with humus or mature compost. Peach seeds are placed in holes to a depth of 6-8 cm. The holes are placed at a distance of 7-10 cm. During the winter, the seed undergoes natural stratification, and shoots appear in spring. Peach seedlings grow quickly, but require careful care. The soil should be loose, weed-free, constantly moist (not wet). During the summer season, 3-4 top dressings are carried out, preferably with kemira or crystal at the rate of 30-40 g / sq. m.

When growing peach seedlings at home, after sowing the seeds, containers are placed in a warm place, which is equipped according to the principle of a mini-greenhouse. Before germination, the temperature in the room is maintained at +10..+15 °С, and after germination it is gradually raised to +18..+20 °С. The soil must be constantly moist. When seedlings appear, containers with seedlings must be placed in well-lit places. Peach seedlings are planted in open or closed ground in the spring by transshipment at a soil temperature in the root layer of at least +12 .. +14 ° С with a constant high air temperature. nine0003

Varieties of peach for different regions

Like other crops, peaches are classified according to the speed of ripening of the crop into early, medium and late. In the south, crops are formed according to the biological ripeness of all three variety groups, in the middle lane and, especially in the cold zone, even when grown in heated greenhouses and greenhouses, they are limited to growing early and much less often - medium and medium-early varieties.

In the southern regions and areas close to them in the middle zone, the following early and mid-early peach varieties are most acceptable: early Kyiv, Redhaven, Collins, Juicy, Favorit, May flower, Early Sycheva, Rossoshanskaya early ripening, Nadezhny, Fluffy early and others. nine0003

In the southern region high yields of good quality peach varieties Cardinal are formed, the fruits of which reach a weight of 140-150 g. Large-fruited. The fruits reach a mass of more than 200 g. Of the other varieties, Veteran, Skazka, Zakatny, Smolensky are in demand.

We can recommend winter-hardy peach varieties of American and Canadian selection (nectarines, fig-shaped peaches) for growing on our own plots - Harbinger, Harnas, Inka, Harko, Suncrest and others. Naturally, the listed varieties are given as examples. The market annually offers new, more improved varieties in terms of winter hardiness and resistance to diseases and pests. Before purchasing a new peach variety, it is necessary to carefully familiarize yourself with its characteristics so as not to get into trouble in a few years, when it turns out that the variety is unsuitable for the region. nine0003 Treatment of peach trees from pests and diseases. © Mary H. Dyer

Protecting Peach from Diseases and Pests

The most common peach diseases are leaf curl, moniliosis, powdery mildew, fruit rot, gum disease. Diseases are caused by pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses.

Of the pests, aphids, spider mites, scale insects, codling moths cause the greatest damage to the crop and the condition of the crop. According to the way of feeding, they belong to gnawing and sucking pests. nine0003

It is not recommended to use chemicals to kill diseases and pests in dachas and adjacent areas. You can get an environmentally friendly crop by using biological products developed on the basis of soil Effective Microorganisms (EM or biological products) to protect against diseases and pests. They are harmless to humans and animals. They can be used almost until harvest. However, using only preparations, the garden cannot be cleared of diseases and pests, because their adult forms, eggs successfully overwinter on weeds and under vegetable garden and garden residues, in fallen fruits and leaves. nine0003

Pest and disease control must begin with preventive measures. After harvesting, it is necessary to remove all fruit and leaf litter from under the crown of the fruit-bearing crop. Carry out sanitary pruning of trees (in late autumn or early spring), removing diseased, cracked shoots, covered with points of incipient gum disease. Take it outside the site and burn it.

From diseases to bud break in spring and leaf fall in autumn, peaches should be sprinkled with 2-3% Bordeaux liquid. And after the leaves bloom, switch to treatment with tank mixtures of biofungicides and bioinsecticides. Bioinsecticides lepidocid, fitoverm, bitoxibacillin can be combined with biofungicides mikosan, phytosporin, hamair, alirin. Each of the biological products has its own limits of effective action on plants. Therefore, before proceeding with the preparation of solutions, it is necessary to study the instructions and check the biological products for compatibility. nine0003

Tank mixes or individual biological preparations start treatment of plants from the phase of bud break and finish a few days before harvest. Adhesives must be added to the prepared solution so that the drug does not roll down and is not washed off the leaves. After rains, spraying of plants is repeated. The treatment is carried out after 7-10 days by fine spraying. Proper preparation and use of biological products qualitatively protects the crop from pests and diseases.

How to grow a peach at home from the stone, and also whether it will bear fruit

Growing exotic tropical trees such as orange, kiwi, pomegranate is becoming more and more fashionable among amateur flower growers. They are trying to "domesticate" other crops, such as peach. But going to the store for such a tree is useless. The only way to get them is to grow them from the seed yourself. There is nothing difficult in this, the grower will only need desire, a little patience and the ability to follow the rules and recommendations exactly. The process is laborious, but very interesting. nine0003

Contents

Selection of planting material

There is hardly a person who would not like peaches. That is why more and more flower growers, partly following fashion trends, are trying to grow a fruit-bearing tree on their windowsill. But just sticking a peach pit into the ground and expecting a harvest would be at least naive. The procedure is much more complicated, it requires preliminary preparation, the ability to act according to these recommendations, the availability of free time and, of course, desire. nine0003

Growing a fruit-bearing peach tree at home is quite a task even for a less experienced gardener. There will definitely not be shoots. The fact is that these fruits are grown very far from Russia (Spain, China, Thailand, Turkey). In order for the harvest to safely endure transportation, the fruits are harvested long before the onset of not only biological, but also technical maturity, almost green. In addition, for better preservation and extension of the shelf life, peaches are treated with chemicals. The seeds inside the seeds simply do not have time to ripen, it makes no sense to talk about germination. And the drugs used contribute to the fact that the shell becomes very fragile, breaks easily, bursts in half. By the way, such fruits are not recommended. nine0003

Shop-bought peaches cannot be used for planting material

Only peach seeds grown on local farms in private garden plots have a chance to germinate. Therefore, for planting material, you need to go to markets, agricultural fairs, to neighbors in the country, and so on. But even the “right” fruit does not guarantee success. Practice shows that, on average, one seed out of four sprouts, and a significant part of the seedlings die within two to three months after germination. nine0209 Therefore, it is advisable to stock up on planting material in excess.

Seedlings at home give only peach seeds taken from the tree after reaching full maturity

It is also advisable to ask the seller if the peach tree has been grafted. In own-rooted plants, "descendants" fully inherit the varietal characteristics of the "parent". And the germination of seeds extracted from grafted peaches is a kind of lottery. Until the first harvest, no one can tell what the fruits will be. nine0003

Even if you cannot get peach fruits at home, you will get a wonderful interior decoration - this tree blooms very beautifully

In principle, peaches of any variety ripen at home. But if you have a choice, you should give preference to those that are characterized by short stature, early maturity and the ability to self-pollinate. Of those cultivated in Russia and the countries of the former USSR, the varieties Pineapple, Krasnodar, Kyiv, Mignon early, Redhaven fully correspond to these characteristics. nine0003

Redhaven peach is an old well-deserved hybrid, bred in the USA, it is quite suitable for growing at home

Video: is it possible to grow a peach from a stone at home

Planting seeds and preparing for it

Peach seeds are a must pre-planting preparation is required. There are several ways, differing in duration, labor costs and efficiency. The fruits from which the stones are removed must be overripe, but at the same time absolutely healthy, without the slightest suspicious symptoms indicating the development of pathogenic fungi, viruses, bacteria or traces resembling damage left by insects. nine0003

Stratification

Stratification or the so-called cold method is the most common type of preplant preparation. Its essence is to simulate "winter" for seeds, creating conditions that are as close to natural as possible. In this case, the natural mechanism of preparing the seed for germination starts, chemical reactions begin, in the process complex organic compounds decompose into simple components that the embryo is able to use for nutrition and assimilate. nine0003

In order for stratification to be successful, peach seeds must be thoroughly cleaned of particles of pulp

). You can put them, for example, in the refrigerator, in a special compartment for storing vegetables and fruits. And also a good solution - a cellar or basement. If the winter is expected to be warm and snowy, the container is simply added dropwise in the garden. They begin preparations in mid-autumn, calculating the time so that by the time the seeds sprout, it is still quite cold outside. nine0003

The temperature in the vegetable and fruit compartment is optimal for peach pit stratification. Previously, the substrate must be thoroughly washed and disinfected by steaming, calcining in the oven, holding in the freezer. Some flower growers recommend sawdust or sphagnum moss as a “ground”, but when using them it is very difficult to provide the required humidity. nine0024

  • Peach pits, carefully cleaned of lumps of pulp (the latter can cause rot), are planted in the ground, deepening 7–9 cm.
  • Place the container in a paper or transparent plastic bag, make 3-4 holes in it with a knife, and put it in the refrigerator. The condition of the soil is constantly monitored, moistening the soil from a fine spray gun as it dries. If condensation appears, the bag is opened for 5–7 minutes to ventilate.
  • After 10-12 weeks, the seeds will sprout, their shell will open. When this happens, the container is removed from the refrigerator, the peaches are seated in individual pots with a diameter of 7–9see. The soil is prepared independently, mixing approximately equal proportions of peat chips, humus and universal soil for indoor plants or leafy soil.
  • Peaches are provided with sufficient light by placing them on a south or southwest window sill. Do not allow a sharp change in the microclimate. The temperature is raised gradually. For 5-7 days, the seedlings are kept on a glazed loggia, at 10-12ºС. Then they can be brought into the apartment, providing coolness (17-20ºС). All this time, peaches are watered very sparingly, only when the soil dries out. nine0024
    Seed extraction

    The existing pit is simply gently split to remove the seeds. If everything is done correctly, seedlings will appear much earlier than with stratification. But due to the complete lack of hardening, such peaches are especially demanding on the conditions of detention, they need perfect care. Plants do not tolerate even slight fluctuations in temperature, humidity, and so on.

    The peach pit is split very carefully so as not to damage the seed, even its shell

    Proceed as follows:

    1. Peach pits are thoroughly washed and dried for several days on linen napkins or paper towels. Then they are very carefully broken using a knife and a hammer. Seeds (“kernels”) that have received at least the slightest damage in the process can be immediately thrown away.
    2. The extracted seeds are kept for 3-4 days in water heated to room temperature, changing the liquid every morning. They should swell, noticeably increasing in size. nine0024
    3. When this happens, peach seeds are planted in individual pots, deepening by 4-5 cm. They are created "greenhouse" conditions, tightening the containers with plastic wrap, covering with glass.
    4. Future peaches are provided with bottom heating, darkness, temperature 26-28ºС. Every day for 5-10 minutes, the "greenhouse" is opened for ventilation, while at the same time erasing the accumulated condensate. Moisten the soil very moderately and only when it dries out. High humidity often provokes the development of rot. nine0024
    5. As soon as sprouts appear, the “shelter” is removed, the containers are exposed to light, providing a “day” lasting at least 12 hours. Requirements for temperature and watering do not change.

    "Greenhouse effect" is absolutely necessary for peach seeds extracted from pits to sprout

    Germination of seeds in natural conditions

    The easiest option, requiring minimal time and effort. The so-called warm method does not require the creation of a special microclimate for seeds. Normal household conditions are enough. The bones extracted from the fruits are simply planted in pots filled with soil and hope for the best. With luck, sprouts will appear in 3-4 months. nine0003

    Peach seedlings obtained from seeds that have not undergone any preliminary preparation are extremely rare

    The chances of success can be increased by the following:

    1. The stones are placed in the refrigerator for 7-10 days, providing at least a short-term stratification.
    2. Then they are soaked for 3-4 hours in a solution of any biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. The most common remedies are Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin, potassium humate, succinic acid, aloe juice. nine0024
    3. Seeds are planted in cups filled with universal soil for indoor plants, deepening at least 5 cm. Be sure to have several drainage holes and a layer of expanded clay (or other suitable material) at the bottom, 2–3 cm thick. The soil must first be well moistened.
    4. Bones provide the same conditions as described in the previous method. Particular attention should be paid to watering - peach categorically does not tolerate stagnant moisture. When sprouts appear, the containers are transferred to the brightest place in the apartment, providing protection from any drafts and direct sunlight. nine0024

    Biostimulants used in the process of seed germination have a positive effect on seed germination and strengthen the immunity of future plants

    The peach tree does not differ in growth rate. Sometimes it even seems that the seedlings do not develop at all. First, the tree forms the root system, and only then - the aerial part. But then it rapidly starts to grow, stretching for 8–10 weeks by 45–60 cm in height. The first harvest can be expected 4-5 years after emergence. nine0003

    A young peach tree does not grow very fast, but you should not worry about this, it is completely normal for it

    Transplantation procedure

    The first time a peach tree is transplanted when it reaches a height of 15–20 cm. , humus, river sand and ordinary garden soil in a ratio (1:1:1:2).

    Flowering and fruiting greatly deplete the plant, so the soil for it must be nutritious, one of its essential components is humus

    The peach tree does not need to be transplanted too often. Once every 2-3 years is sufficient. Some tightness will even benefit the roots by encouraging more abundant flowering. The optimal time for the procedure is early spring (before the start of the active growing season) or the first half of September (when fruiting ends).

    For a peach, choose a bucket-shaped pot. This is still a tree, so its root system is developed. It is best to purchase a container made of ceramic - it is more stable and provides proper aeration. nine0003

    In a shallow, flat pot, there is simply not enough space for peach roots.

    Further care

    In nature, peach grows in the tropics. This is what you need to focus on, creating a suitable microclimate for the tree. It is worth listening to its “requirements”, because flowering and fruiting is possible only in optimal or close to them conditions.

    Creating the right microclimate

    Peach is very photophilous. The plant needs to provide daylight hours lasting 12-14 hours. In most of the territory of Russia, natural light cannot be dispensed with, so you will have to use simple fluorescent or special phytolamps for additional illumination. They are included not only in autumn and winter, but also in summer, in cloudy cool weather. nine0003

    LED phytolamp consumes not so much electricity, but it allows you to provide peaches with daylight of the desired duration

    A pot with a peach tree is placed near a window facing south or southeast. As a rule, this is the brightest place in the apartment. But a plant, especially a young one, can suffer from burns, therefore, during the period of maximum solar activity, it must be shaded by covering it with tulle, gauze, and a paper screen.

    The plant has a very positive attitude towards fresh air, but categorically does not tolerate cold drafts. This must be taken into account when choosing a place in the apartment. In summer, the peach feels great on the loggia, veranda, balcony, in the garden, if it is protected from rain and wind.

    Peach is very fond of fresh air, so if the temperature is right, it is quite possible to take it outside.

    The optimum temperature varies depending on the stage of development of the plant. nine0210 He definitely needs a rest period at 2-5ºС. It lasts from November to early March. Then the temperature is raised to 12-15ºС. Higher rates can cause bud drop. After flowering, the plant needs warmth, but not heat (22-26ºС). The peach tree will not survive negative temperatures.

    Humidity is not critical for peach. He will be quite satisfied with the standard 50-60%, to maintain which in modern apartments you do not need to make any effort. However, in hot weather, the peach won't mind a daily spray. nine0209 It is also useful for sanitary purposes to wipe the leaves from time to time with a damp sponge or soft cloth, getting rid of dust.

    Cultivation recommendations

    Peach is a moisture-loving plant, but categorically does not tolerate stagnant moisture in a pot. The soil is moistened regularly, allowing it to dry 2–3 cm deep. This is easy to check by sticking a toothpick into the substrate. The intervals between waterings vary depending on what the weather is like outside. In the heat, the peach will have to be watered daily or once every two days, the rest of the time - 2-3 times a week (during the ripening of the fruit, you can get by with one). nine0209 Half an hour after the procedure, be sure to drain excess moisture from the pot.

    The plant needs the most abundant watering after leaving the dormant period, when leaf buds begin to “wake up”. As soon as flowering ends and fruit ovaries form, it is reduced. Waterlogging can cause the ovaries to fall off and the fruits to crack. During the wintering period, the peach is watered very rarely and moderately, once every 2.5–3 weeks.

    Water for irrigation is used soft, heated to room temperature. The one that flows from the tap must be defended for at least a day. Or you can speed up the sedimentation process by adding a few crystals of citric acid or 2-3 drops of apple cider vinegar to it. nine0003

    Rain water, as well as spring water, is ideal for watering peach

    After each watering, after about half an hour, the soil is loosened. It must not be allowed to turn into a crust on the surface of the soil. This prevents normal aeration of the roots and provokes moisture stagnation.

    Flowering and fruiting take a lot of energy from a tree. Therefore, top dressing for peach is strictly required. To do this, you can use organic fertilizers based on biohumus, and complex mineral preparations. But natural remedies are also suitable - infusions of wood ash, nettle leaves, dandelion. Fertilizers are applied every 12–14 days throughout the growing season. nine0209 At the time of wintering, top dressing is stopped.

    Nettle leaf infusion is a natural source of nitrogen and phosphorus, before use it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:8

    The concentration is halved by the manufacturer. The volume of soil in the pot is limited, because of this, top dressing is not washed out of the soil. Moderate "overfeeding" for a peach is not dangerous - it will only stop bearing fruit, "concentrating" on building up green mass (sometimes such plants are called "fatty"). But regular excess of fertilizer doses is already intoxication and quite likely death of the plant. nine0003

    The most important macro- and microelements for plants are phosphorus, potassium, calcium and copper. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied only in spring, they help after the winter "hibernation" to stimulate the peach to intensive growth of green mass. Experienced flower growers, in order to provide it with everything necessary, advise spraying a tree once a month and a half, dissolving soda ash (4–5 g), copper sulfate (1.5–2 g), 2–3 crystals of potassium permanganate and a drop of iodine.

    Home-grown peach tree is sensitive to copper deficiency, copper sulfate solution will help to fill it.

    A neglected peach tree does not look very attractive and almost always refuses to bear fruit. Therefore, it needs regular pruning. Formation begins in about a year and a half, when the seedling reaches a height of 65–70 cm and several side shoots form on it.

    It is on them that the fruits ripen. Therefore, the upward growth of the tree must be slowed down. nine0210 In principle, a florist is limited only by the height of the ceilings in his own apartment, but practice shows that the optimal height of a peach is 1. 5–1.7 m.

    First peach pruning - pinching off the top at the desired height. They do it in the fall. Next spring, last year's lateral shoots are shortened by 2–3 buds, stimulating more intensive branching. And they also get rid of all poorly located branches directed inward and down the crown. It is recommended to leave annually 6-8 of the most developed side shoots, and cut the rest to the point of growth. nine0209 Branches older than ten years are also removed, they will no longer bear fruit.

    Video: peach pruning rules

    How to properly graft

    A peach seedling obtained from the stone, if its variety is known, can be used as a graft for a garden tree. And sometimes, on the contrary, it is grown as a stock for a varietal cutting. Vaccination is carried out in several ways, but, in any case, the tool used in the process must be disinfected and sharply sharpened. Sterility is also very important. The less the grower touches the cuts, the better. nine0003

    Split grafting

    The most common method, also among gardeners. The best time for the procedure is the beginning of spring. The graft (the part of the plant being grafted) and the rootstock (the plant being grafted) should be approximately the same diameter. The first must have at least three growth buds.

    Scion and rootstock should be approximately the same diameter, this does not only apply to peach

    Experienced gardeners recommend that if the "home" peach is to be used as a rootstock, it is recommended to harvest cuttings for grafting in the fall. For the winter they are buried in the snow. nine0003

    The rootstock tree is cut off at a height of 25–30 cm. A vertical cut about 5 mm deep is made perpendicular to the cutting plane. The base of the scion cutting is cut at an angle on both sides, forming a V-shaped wedge.

    To speed up the process, the scion base is soaked for several hours in a solution of any biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. In addition to store-bought preparations (Epin, Zircon, Kornevin), you can use, for example, succinic acid, aloe juice. Practice shows that powder products give much worse results. nine0210

    Grafting into a split is the most popular method among gardeners and flower growers, it is possible to graft one or two cuttings at once. He must enter there with some effort. Then the entire structure is fixed by wrapping it with plastic wrap, adhesive tape, electrical tape, or coating it with garden pitch. If you do not wrap it tightly enough, the moisture from the tissues will simply evaporate, and the stalk will dry out. When a characteristic “influx” appears on the bark around the graft, called callus by botanists, the film can be removed. nine0003

    One of the main conditions for the success of grafting is reliable fixation of the structure

    There are other ways of grafting - combining oblique cuts on the scion and rootstock, grafting on the bark (if it is thick enough). The procedure is not fundamentally different from splitting, but the first method at home gives the best results. The last method at home is used extremely rarely - the process takes a long time, there is a high probability that the grafted stalk will simply break off after removing the polyethylene. nine0003

    Budding

    Budding is a slightly more complicated method that requires some experience from the grower. In fact, this is the same vaccination, but not a whole cutting is used as a scion, but only one growth bud. You can carry out budding at any time.

    The kidney is cut along with a layer of tissue 2–3 mm thick and 2.5–3 cm wide (the so-called scutellum). It is advisable to do this in one motion. In the process, try to touch her as little as possible. The instrument used is a scalpel or razor blade. nine0003

    It is advisable to cut the bud for budding in one motion, touching it as little as possible with your hands

    Next, an incision is made on the bark of the rootstock tree in the shape of the letter X or T, 1. 5–2 mm deep. If you gently bend the bark, something similar to a pocket is formed. The cut kidney is inserted into it, securely fixed with a strapping. It can be removed when callus forms, indicating that the procedure was successful.

    Fixing a bud to a scion requires the grower to have certain skills, if part of the bark sticks out of the "pocket", this is normal

    The result of the procedure will become clear in about 25-30 days. In addition to the formation of callus, the success is indicated by the activation of the growth of the cutting or the "awakening" of the kidney. If this does not happen, the winding is carefully removed, the scion is removed, the vaccination site is disinfected by washing with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, and covered with garden pitch.

    A growth bud that has taken root on a rootstock “wakes up” after about a month

    Feedback from home gardeners

    Flower growers successfully cultivate peach trees at home and achieve fruiting from them.

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