Laying down grass seed
How to grow grass from grass seed the easy way
Planting grass seed is a way to expand your lawn into new areas and maximize the green space around your home. You can also plant new grass seed to improve your current lawn if it’s looking a little dingy. You can even use grass seed to restart your lawn completely.
Before you seed, start with some quick and easy prep work.
As an easy rule, if you’re experiencing (or are about to experience) harsh temperatures you’ll want to wait until the extreme weather passes to plant your grass seed for best results.
Either spring or fall is the best time to plant, based on your region and grass type. To keep this simple, if you’re in the northern part of the country, you’re likely in the ‘cool season’ area, meaning the best time to plant grass seeds is the fall, or typically September through November. If you’re in the southern or middle regions, you’ll likely want to plant in spring or early summer, typically March – June.
Trying to plant seed out of season may still be possible, but it can make for slower growing and hurt the chances of the new grass’s survival. Just something to keep in mind.
Using the same regions shown above, you’ll want to buy a grass seed type that grows best in your climate.
- Cool season grasses (northern states) include: Kentucky bluegrass, Perennial ryegrass and fescue.
- Transition zone grasses include: Zoysia, Fescue / Bluegrass blends, and Bluegrass / Perennial Ryegrass blends
- Warm season grasses include: Bermudagrass, Bahiagrass, Zoysia, and Centipede grass.
Pennington’s article on grass types based on more specific regions may be helpful if you’re still trying to decide.
Assuming that the timing is right, here’s what you’ll need to buy.
Grass seedWe recommend shopping on Amazon, Home Depot, or Lowes for fast and convenient selections. Home Depot will probably be able to provide more insight if you feel you’re still questioning what grass type or how much to buy.
Check out this article on the Spruce for the best grass seed picks in 2020.A pH Tester
This will be used to test your soil before adding the seed. You can find these on Amazon for around $10.
Grass feeder (aka fertilizer)Once planted, the seed will need to start growing quickly, before surrounding weeds out-grow and kill it. Grass feeder should be applied right after the seeds are planted, so be sure to add this to your cart as well.
Here are the top 10 lawn fertilizers of 2020 based on BestReviews.Guide
To protect the seeds from blowing away, being burned by the sun, eaten by birds, etc. you’ll want to bury the seeds under a layer of nutrient-dense soil, like Scotts turf builder. Local nurseries and Home Depot or Lowes will have soil available, just make sure to explain your use before buying, to avoid any soil with weed seed.
3 easy steps to plant grass seedStep 1:
Prepare the surface of the lawnWhether you are seeding for the very first time or just overseeding your existing thinned out lawn, you need to make sure you have a good, solid foundation. Make sure to remove weeds, rocks, sticks, and other debris from the lawn.
Check any uneven areas so you can try to level the ground before laying down any seed. This will help prevent water from collecting and pooling in low areas, which will cause the seed to rot.
Loosen the soilIf your soil is compacted, you will need to loosen at least the top four inches of soil. You can use a tiller or rake. This will allow air flow and will provide the best chance for vigorous growth.
You can also scatter out a thin layer of topsoil over the lawn at this stage. Since it is freshly laid, it will not be compacted, allowing good airflow. Make sure to keep enough left for coverage at the end.
Applying topsoil will also level out the lawn for a nice and even look, which will also help you avoid puddles when you are watering. If you encounter divots or holes, this is a good time to fill them in to prevent problem areas once the grass starts growing.
Step 2: Enrich your soil with nutrients to help grass seeds growIf you’re planting new grass seed because your lawn is dead or struggling to grow, there may be deeper issues to address with your soil.
This is where you’ll need to get out your pH tester. Ideally, the pH for most grass types is between 6.0 and 7.0.
If your soil’s pH is under 6.0, it is too acidic, meaning it needs nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and calcium. Lime (aka limestone) can be applied to the soil to help increase the soil pH and make those nutrients more available.
If your soil’s pH is above a 7, add compost, peat, sulfur, or fertilizer to lower the pH.
Step 3: Lay and feed the grass seedWhen laying down seeds, you must do a pretty heavy application for a brand new lawn. Try to maintain an even application over the entire area so that everything gets covered.
Alternatively, you need lighter coverage when overseeding an existing lawn. Put more grass seed in sparse areas to promote growth.
To lay the seed, you can just use your bare hands or a spreader for larger areas.
Cover up the seeds or work the seeds into the soilWhen seed is only applied to the surface level of the ground, it will dry out quickly and will not germinate. It might also get washed away by water or wind.
Add another thin layer of the soil that you purchased onto your lawn to bury the seeds.
If you do not have soil to put on top of the seeds, the seed must be worked into the soil; about ⅓ to ½ inch deep. After sowing the seed, use a rake to work the seed into the soil and smooth the surface.
This will keep the water from evaporating immediately, thus keeping the ground moist. It also protects the seeds from wildlife.
Add your feederOnce the seed is applied to the soil, treat the yard with fertilizer to accelerate growth.
The final step in successfully planting grass seed is to keep the lawn adequately moisturized all the time. This is very crucial in the process.
If the seed dries out, it will die. After sowing grass seed, they will need constant and frequent watering unlike the “water deeply and less frequently” watering for mature grass. This is to help the seed germinate and develop its root system for a healthy lawn.
On the other hand, overwatering will hinder the germination process as well, so you need to use just enough water to keep the soil moist at seed depth. It should be moist, never soggy.
You must commit to water the new or overseeded lawn at least two to three times every single day to keep the top inch of the soil moist at all times. The germination time for grass seed ranges from 5 to 30 days depending on the variety or longer in cooler temperatures.
Check moisture levelsOnce the seedbed has started to establish itself and sprouts have begun to pop out, continue to check the ground’s moisture regularly. If you notice it getting dry, add some water.
Remember, these new grass seedlings have very short roots and they will still require very frequent watering so the roots can spread out. Steps one and two will just go to waste if the watering part will not be done appropriately, so your commitment is a must!
For after-care, whether you have seeded a new lawn or just filled in a bare spot, start mowing your grass after 8 weeks or until the grass has reached a mowing height. Do not cut it too short and do not cut more than one-third of its height as it will stress out the grass.
FAQsHow long does new grass seed take to grow?
Generally speaking, it takes between 7 and 30 days for grass seed germination to begin.
While it’s possible to simply sow the new grass seed over your existing lawn, taking the time to prepare your lawn beforehand will increase the likelihood of seed germination and improve your end result.
Probably not. Some seeds on the soil’s surface will sprout, but the germination rate will diminish, and you will not be left with ideal results.
It depends how loose your soil is. Grass seeds are not strong enough to grow through soil. They’re meant to be placed on top of loose, prepared soil. Germination can quickly suffer from too much soil on top of them.
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A Simple Guide to Success
Lawns are everywhere. Some are highly tended; others, not so much. My own lawn is a mixed planting of three types of turf grass (Kentucky blue, fescue, and perennial rye grass), clover, violets, ground ivy, and various other “weeds”, which is exactly how I like it (and so do the resident honey bees and bumble bees!). Regardless of how perfectionistic you are about your lawn, at one point or another, you’ll find yourself needing to plant grass seed. Whether it’s to fill in a bare spot left behind by Fido or a wayward snowplow, or to install a brand-new lawn after a construction project, learning how to plant grass seed is a necessity for most homeowners. This article offers a simple guide to success, no matter the reason for your reseeding efforts.
There are many different types of lawn grasses. Be sure to choose varieties that are suited to your climate.Start with the best type of grass for your climate
As a professional horticulturist and a former landscaper, I’ve seeded dozens of brand-new lawns over the years, and I’ve over-seeded bare spots in hundreds more. No matter how large or how small your job is, success always starts with selecting the best grass seed for your region. Different grass species thrive in different climates. There are cool-season grasses and warm-season grasses. The label of the package will tell you which grass varieties are included. It will also tell you whether or not there is a starter fertilizer included. Do not choose a blend that includes weed control products. They could harm young seedlings.
Which grass seed is best for your yard also depends on the amount of sunlight it receives. I suggest contacting a local garden center or feed store and speaking with them about the best options for your region. There are also some useful online maps with all the information you’ll need to choose the appropriate grass species for your growing conditions if you live in the US.
Some brands of grass seed come blended with a “filler” product intended to help you distribute the seed evenly and to act as a protective covering. I personally avoid these products because they are more costly than purchasing a bag of high-quality plain seed and they don’t cover as large of an area.
Preparing the ground for planting
After selecting and purchasing the seed, it’s time to prepare the soil for the planting process. This is a very important step in knowing how to plant grass seed successfully. The tender roots of young grass plants will not grow well in compacted soils so it’s essential that this step be done properly. Here are instructions for prepping the ground to overseed bare spots in an established lawn and instructions on how to prepare for planting grass seed in a large bare area.
Preparation for seeding a bare spot in the lawn: Begin by using a cultivator to remove the dead grass. If it’s a small spot, use a hand cultivator. If it’s a larger spot, use a diamond hoe or warren hoe. Then, dig up the area down to a depth of two or three inches with a shovel or trowel. Loosen the soil and break up any clumps.
To repair a “doggie spot” in your lawn, start by removing the dead grass.Preparation for planting grass seed in a large bare area: If you want to know how to plant grass seed in larger areas successfully, begin by loosening the top three to five inches of soil. Use a rototiller for the job if it’s a very large lawn area. Use a shovel or hoe if it’s an area that’s just a few square feet.
For a smaller area, break up the soil using a warren hoe or a shovel. Larger areas may require a rototiller.Whether the area is small or large, after loosening the soil, it’s time to rake it smooth. Use a bow rake or a seeding rake to further break up any soil clods and rake the soil out into fine particles and a smooth finish. Use the tines of the rake to smash any large clumps of dirt if necessary.
After loosening the soil, rake it out smoothly and break up any clumps.The final step of site preparation for planting grass seed is to water the area well. Putting seed down on damp soil encourages speedy germination and provides immediate moisture to emerging roots.
Wetting the area before planting is an important step in the process.How to plant grass seed
For small areas, use your hand to distribute the seed, flinging it out over the area. For large areas, use a walk-behind broadcast spreader or a hand-held hopper spreader to disperse the seed. It’s all too easy to put down too much seed, or conversely, not enough seed. When you’re finished, the grass seeds should be evenly spread over the soil surface. They should be about one-quarter to one-half inch apart (obviously no one expects you to actually measure – just eyeball it). If you sow grass seed too thickly, the plants will outcompete each other and their growth will suffer. If you don’t sow them thickly enough, weeds may move in.
In smaller areas, grass seed can be spread by hand. For large areas, use a mechanical spreader.How to ensure good coverage
Sometimes it’s challenging to ensure ample coverage of grass seedlings. If you are using a drop spreader, I suggest distributing the seeds in one direction and then making a second pass in the perpendicular direction. This two-directional overseeding promotes more even grass seed germination and distribution. If you are spreading the seed by hand, it’s a bit easier to eye, but dropping the seeds from different angles helps.
What to put on top of newly planted grass seed
After the seeds are sown, cover them immediately to protect them from birds, keep them moist, and prevent them from washing away in a heavy rain. There are several different mulches you can use for the job. In my experience, straw (not hay, which can be filled with weed seeds), screened compost, or mushroom soil are prime choices. These products also act as soil amendments when they break down and can improve your soil’s fertility and structure. All three of these options are available from your local garden store or landscape supply center. Erosion mats are another option. They can easily be unrolled over the area with little mess and are biodegradable, though they’re also a good bit more expensive than the previous choices. Peat moss is not a good idea because it can repel water once it has dried out.
No matter what you choose to use to cover grass seed, more is definitely not better. One-quarter of an inch is about as thick as you should go. Compost and mushroom soil are great for covering fall-seeded lawns. Their dark color absorbs the sun’s heat and keeps the soil warm all night long. This speeds germination and encourages rapid lawn establishment prior to winter’s arrival.
After spreading the seed, cover the area with a mulch of straw, fine compost, or mushroom soil.How long does it take for grass seed to germinate
Some varieties of turfgrass take longer to germinate than others. For example, perennial rye grass germinates in as little as 3 to 5 days, fescues take more like 10 days, Kentucky bluegrass takes 2 to 3 weeks, and warm-season grasses like centipede, Bermuda, and zoysia grasses can take over a month. If your grass seed is a mixture of varieties, know that not all of them will germinate at the same time. To encourage good germination and a healthy start no matter which type of grass seed you planted, it’s critical that you keep the seeded area and the young plants well-watered until they are established. See the section below on watering for more info on how and when to water new grass.
Water newly planted grass in well and keep it watered until it’s established.Planting grass seed in fall
In many climates, the best time to plant grass seed is in the autumn. The still-warm soil of late August, September, October, or November encourages optimum root growth, while the cooling air temperatures discourage excessive top growth. This is perfect for establishing lawn grasses and promoting extensive root growth. It also makes the turf more resistant to drought and better able to access nutrients in the soil. In addition, in most regions, fall also brings increased amounts of rainfall. This means you won’t have to lug out the hose and sprinkler as often.
It’s time to plant grass seed in the fall when nighttime temperatures drop down to about 60 degrees F. Keep an eye on the forecast. Opt for sowing grass seed when there’s a day or two of rain predicted.
Planting grass seed in spring
Spring is another great time to seed the lawn. It’s particularly good if you live where springs are long and cool. For spring planting, it’s absolutely essential that you continue to regularly water the seed and the sprouted grass through the remainder of the spring, summer, and well into the fall. Establishment failures are often connected to improper watering. Early summer is another possible time, but you’ll need to water more often.
How often to water grass seed after planting
Water newly planted grass seed daily if the weather is over 80 degrees F. Every other day is a good watering schedule if temperatures are cooler. Prior to germination, wet the top inch or so of soil. But, once the grass seed germinates and begins to grow, reduce the frequency of irrigation but water more deeply. Once your new grass is about two inches tall, reduce your watering schedule to once or twice a week, but water until the ground is wet down to a depth of about three inches.
Once grass is fully established, stop irrigation all together, unless there’s a prolonged period of drought. When it comes to watering established lawns, it’s always better to water less frequently but very deeply. Always water lawn in the morning, if possible, to reduce the chance of fungal disease issues.
Young grass plants can be mowed when they are 3 inches tall.When is it safe to mow new grass?
Mow new grass when it reaches a height of about 3 inches. Mow high through the first growing season (3 to 4 inches). Make sure your mower blades are sharp (here’s my favorite sharpening tool) so they cut the grass cleanly, rather than tearing it which can create an entryway for disease.
When to fertilize new grass
When learning how to plant grass seed, many people think you should add fertilizer at planting time. This is not a good practice however, because fertilizers (especially salt-based synthetic lawn fertilizers) can burn tender young grass roots. Instead, top-dress the lawn with compost (here’s how) or use an organic granular lawn fertilizer instead of a synthetic brand. You can start to fertilize new lawns after you’ve mowed the grass 6 times.
Now that you know how to plant grass seed, it’s easy to see how doing it right can make all the difference. Follow the steps outlined above and you’ll have a healthy, thriving lawn instead of one that’s struggling.
For more on growing a beautiful landscape, please visit the following articles:
- Why you should top dress your lawn with compost
- The best blooming shrubs for shade
- Evergreen groundcovers
- Dwarf evergreen trees for small yards
- 18 top performing low-maintenance shrubs
Lawn grass is indispensable in the design of a personal plot. The green lawn at the house is not just a beautiful design. It acts as a barrier to weed growth and keeps the soil from drying out. The lawn can be sown (planted) or bought ready-made in rolls. In the first part of the article, we will consider lawn grass grown from seeds with our own hands.
Lawn grasses
If you want a dense and even lawn cover, then you need to choose the right lawn grass wisely. Almost all of the herbs that are used to create ornamental lawns belong to the grass family, and are divided into long-term, short-term and transitional. To create lawns, grass mixtures from these species are most often used. Long-term herbs grow quite slowly, but "live" and bear fruit for many years. These include red fescue, bluegrass meadow and others. Less perennial grasses, such as perennial and flowering ryegrass, common comb, wheatgrass and others, develop much faster.
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The most unpretentious, frost-resistant and drought-resistant, actively resisting pests and weeds are the following herbs: meadow bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, red/sheep/cane fescue and thin bentgrass.
Meadow grass. Forms an even cover of saturated green color. Not too picky about the soil, grows well in wet areas, but does not tolerate flooding. It is frost-resistant, maintains cold winters.
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Perennial ryegrass. Forms a dense grass cover, grows back quickly after watering, but does not tolerate flooding, like bluegrass. It does not tolerate drought well and does not grow well in heavy soils.
Photo source: http://miragro.com
Fescue. Grows slowly, drought-resistant and unpretentious to the composition of the soil. Red fescue is considered a valuable component for problem areas of the lawn, and sheep's fescue tolerates trampling well.
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Field. Grows with the help of creeping shoots, forming a dense and neat cover. The thin bent grass is unpretentious, grows everywhere, but prefers dry and acidic soil.
Photo source: http://nekopaju.ru
Creeping clover. Perennial, shade intolerant. After mowing, it grows quickly, but develops slowly in the year of sowing. Drought tolerant and undemanding to the soil.
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Tip: It is not advisable to use only one type of grass for creating lawns, as weather conditions or the nature of the soil can adversely affect the plant, and there is a risk that the entire lawn will become unusable. Use mixtures of 3-5 types of plants that are compatible with each other, and be sure to consider their suitability for your soil type.
The choice of plants for the lawn depends on the purpose of the site itself, where it will be planted. Depending on the purpose, there are several mixtures of lawn grass with predominant subspecies of plants with certain characteristics.
- Ornamental lawn mixtures (grass height 3 cm). The composition is dominated by red fescue.
- Mixtures for playgrounds and sports fields (grass height 4 cm). The composition is dominated by fescue and meadow bluegrass.
- Lawn and play area mixes consisting of meadow bluegrass, red fescue, perennial ryegrass, slender bentgrass. Forms a dense bright cover.
- Semi-shaded mixture of ryegrass, bluegrass, red fescue, fine bentgrass. Forms a dense dark green carpet.
- Mixture for parterre lawns - composition includes perennial ryegrass, thin bent grass, meadow grass meadow, red fescue.
DIY lawn planting
So, you have already decided on the choice of suitable seeds and are ready to start. Be patient: even if you have carefully prepared the soil for sowing, it will take a month and a half or two before you set foot on the lawn created by your own hands.
Basic steps for creating a lawn
1. Soil preparation
First of all, it is necessary to dig up the site and remove all weeds, roots and dig out stones. If the fertile layer of the earth is less than 15 cm, then the earth will have to be poured. At the same stage of preparation, apply fertilizer or sand.
2. Ground leveling and compaction
Crush large clods of earth with a hoe, then break up the remaining clods with a rake and level the soil. Use a special compacting roller or simply tread the ground using wooden boards.
3. Opening
The earth must be loosened with a rake to a depth of approximately 2 cm. It is important that no, even small, lumps and depressions remain.
4. Seeding
Seeds are purchased at the rate of 30-50 g per 1 square meter. To avoid "bald spots", scatter half the seeds along and the other half across the lawn. For sowing, a lawn seeder or special canisters are used. If they are not available, sow the soil by hand. Pour fertilizers containing potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen at the same time as the seeds. Rake seed and fertilizer on the soil, then roll. The optimum sowing depth is 2 mm.
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5. Watering
The soil must be constantly moistened until the first shoots appear. Water your lawn every day for 10 minutes. Remember also that you can’t walk on the lawn for another two weeks after the emergence of seedlings.
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Lawn care
Haircut. To keep the lawn looking well-groomed, it must be constantly mowed. In the spring, this can be done once a week, and with the onset of summer less often - once every 2-3 weeks, since in the hot season the grass grows much more slowly. Cut grass can not be collected: it is an excellent fertilizer, and it also protects the lawn from moisture loss.
Scarification - lawn cleaning, moss and dry grass removal. Weeds are dug up with a chopper and pulled out by the roots. Moss and dry grass should be combed out with a fan rake.
Aeration - piercing the top layer of soil by about 10-15 cm. Aeration is carried out in order to ensure optimal water regime, as well as to provide air and fertilizer to the roots.
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Correction of irregularities and bald spots. Such areas should be re-seeded with grass and sprinkled with leafy humus or earth and sand on top to level this area with the main level of the lawn.
Top dressing and fertilizer. In order for the grass to be juicy, bright and healthy, it is necessary to fertilize at least three times a year: in summer, autumn and spring. The main thing is not to overdo it. Apply fertilizer according to the instructions and use the right fertilizer for the season.
Pest control . The main pests of cereal lawn grasses are bread mites, grass cutworms, swedish and spike flies. The main and most effective way to control such pests is to treat the soil with dressing agents before sowing. You should also mow grass for hay in a timely manner and burn grass stubble at the beginning of spring. In the fight against swedish flies, in addition to all of the above, you can spray the lawn in the summer with a 10% solution of polychropinene.
Price
German, Dutch and Danish breeding and seed companies are considered recognized leaders in quality. Grass mixtures and seeds of individual herbs from the German company Euro Grass: the cost per 1 kg averages 65 UAH. Seeds of the German company FELDSAATEN FREUDENBERGER GmbH: sold in packs of 0.5 kg, 1 kg and 10 kg. The cost for 1 kg is 67-84 UAH, depending on the types of lawn grass. In Ukraine, the following mixtures of lawn grasses are presented: "Shadow", "Sports", "Universal", "Game". Lawn grass seeds from the American company Jacklin Seed: average cost per 1 kg is 69UAH Lawn grass of the Danish company "DLF Trifolium" costs from 60 UAH per 1 kg.
There are few proposals among Ukrainian producers: lawn grass seeds are offered by Semyona Ukrainy and Ogorod.ua trademarks. The average cost of lawn grass seeds (bags of 20 g) is 4.50 hryvnia.
Rolled lawn: types, laying and maintenance
Turf Grass Roll or Turf Roll is a ready-made lawn grass turf that is obtained by sowing grass in the field. The lawn obtained in this way is cut into strips of 30-40 cm. They reach a thickness of 2-5 cm and consist of roots, grass and earth. “Rolled lawn” is not a completely correct concept, since it only means a method of transporting this cargo when the turf is rolled into rolls. Around the world, the term "ready" or "mature" lawn is used.
Photo source: http://regional.com.ua
Types of lawns
Just like when sowing a lawn, not one type of grass is used in rolls, but grass mixtures. These are red fescue and meadow bluegrass - Canadian selection herbs, most suitable for the climatic conditions of Ukraine. The composition of grass mixtures also often includes perennial ryegrass as a fast-growing plant.
Depending on the purpose, the lawn in rolls is divided into several types.
Universal lawn. This type of turf is the most common. They cover parks and gardens, territories inside residential areas. It can be used for outdoor activities as it is resistant to trampling. Grass mixtures for universal lawn (fescue, bluegrass, ryegrass) are resistant to weather conditions, ideal for both harsh winters and dry summers. The universal lawn is resistant to mechanical damage, durable, perfectly fulfills its decorative function: it has a rich, juicy, deep color.
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Sports turf . For this type of lawn, the plants most resistant to trampling are used - most of the bluegrass and ryegrass. As a rule, sports lawns are installed on special areas: football fields and tennis courts. Sports turf has high elasticity and strength, resistance to tearing and durability. However, it requires more thorough soil preparation before laying and systematic care.
Photo source: http://houskomfort.ru
Parterre lawn. This type of lawn looks the most presentable of all those described, so it is often used to lay earth in decorative corners, along the main alleys, in front of the facade of the house. However, before choosing parterre lawn, think three times, as it is more whimsical to growing conditions: it will not grow in shady places or in too wet soil. The correct parterre lawn should be velvety, have a uniform color and low herbage.
Photo source: http://www.bonsai-center-samara.ru
Installation
A feature of this lawn is the possibility of laying it during the entire period of grass growth. However, the most successful time for rooting the root system is early spring. Laying consists of several stages:
- A week before the planned laying of the lawn, treat the soil with complex fertilizers at the rate of 60 g per 1 square meter.
- The ground needs to be cleared of weeds, stones and debris.
- Loosen the soil to a depth of about 15 cm and add 5 cm of humus or peat-sand mixture, then level the soil with a rake.
Note: Each row of turf to be laid must begin and end with a single strip of sod or half a roll in length. The remaining pieces can be placed in the middle of the row, but not laid at the edges.
- The turf should be rolled in a straight line, bends are not allowed.
- After laying the first row of lawn, it must be compacted: a board press can be used for this purpose. Remember that the lawn should not be nailed, but pressed.
- Lay subsequent rows as in brickwork - shifting the edges. This is done to more firmly bond the turf strips together. Rolls should be laid close to each other, pressing the edges so that they converge, but in no case should one roll be laid on top of another.
- For better merging of sod between themselves after laying the lawn, you need to fill the seams between the strips with a mixture of peat, loam and sand in a ratio suitable for your type of soil:
- sandy soil: peat - 2 parts, loam - 4 parts, sand - 1 part;
- loamy soil: peat - 1 part, loam - 4 parts, sand 2 - parts;
- clay soil: peat - 1 part, loam - 2 parts, sand - 4 parts.
- After laying the lawn, it is necessary to water it abundantly so that not only it, but also the soil is moistened.
- In order to freely walk on the lawn and play outdoor games, give it a month for the roots of the rolls to grow well with the base.
Maintenance
Haircut. Approximately 2 weeks after laying, the lawn can be mowed for the first time, cutting only the tips of the grass. In the future, the haircut is carried out in accordance with the desired height of the grass.
Watering. During the first week after laying, it is recommended to water the lawn every day, gradually reducing the water consumption. Then the frequency of watering can be reduced to once every 10 days in cool weather and 2 times a week in the hot season.
Top dressing. The best time to feed is before rain. However, if there is no rain for 2 more days after it, then carry out abundant watering. During the rain, the soil is not fertilized. In the spring, stock up on fertilizers with a high nitrogen content, during the summer period, nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus should be present in top dressing, and in autumn, starting from mid-September, only potassium and phosphorus are enough.
Lawn maintenance. If you want your lawn, in which you have already invested enough effort and money, to continue to please you, in addition to standard operations such as mowing, fertilizing and watering, do not forget about other care products. Periodically, you need to aerate the lawn and control weeds and pests. You can read more about this in the first article on lawn grass.
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Laying paving slabs: price comparison
How to lay artificial turf, how to lay artificial turf
Beautifully designed lawn grass, above all, requires proper care. It is not enough just to implement a successful design solution once, it must be constantly maintained. And it takes a lot of effort, time and money. But not always the result obtained corresponds to the expectations. This is especially true for professional playing fields and public places with an increased load.
Lawn specialists have worked for many years to improve its properties, increase wear resistance, and simplify maintenance. So, artificial lawns appeared, which successfully replaced natural green spaces. Every year their popularity is growing, and the scope is expanding. Today, synthetic grass is an integral part of landscape design. Convinced of the expediency of its use, people began to lay such a coating on the territory of their houses, cottages, household plots, near shops and restaurants.
Features and benefits of artificial turf
Naturally, the massive use of non-natural turf must be justified. Far-fetched benefits and advantages would not be able to retain customers for a long time. But each buyer, taking into account his priorities, makes a choice himself. So, let's take a look at what artificial turf laying might be of interest to you.
- Durability. Of course, natural plants benefit from their natural origin. But their life cycle is not endless. The grass needs to be periodically sown or transplanted completely. As for the synthetic product, on average, it can be used for about 15 years.
- Wear resistance. It is better not to walk, ride, or play on natural lawns, then they will look great. Otherwise, it begins to fade, yellow leaves, bald spots appear. Artificial turf is absolutely not afraid of wear and tear and has no such restrictions, for this it was created.
- Care. Natural greenery requires timely and careful maintenance. It must be regularly watered, trimmed, fertilized, aerated and scarified, seeded. Such procedures require the use of specialized equipment and tools. The cost of time and money for proper processing is quite large. Synthetic coating does not need such procedures.
- Does not depend on environmental conditions. Living plants are prone to rotting, drying out and suffering from harmful insects. An unnatural lawn is not harmed by any natural factors.
- Paving speed. The cover of artificial origin can be placed quite quickly, changing the landscape as you wish. Sowing live grass involves a longer waiting time.
If your territory requires just such qualities, then you can be sure of your choice. The main thing to take into account is the fact that its quality and properties will depend on the cost of a synthetic coating.
Selection criteria for artificial turf
There are many manufacturers of polymer turf today. Although outwardly such lawns differ little, their device may have some discrepancies. The type of flooring will depend on the place and method of application.
- Non-filling - has the maximum resemblance to natural lawns. Synthetic blades of grass are almost impossible to distinguish from living ones. They are just as soft and flexible. But their installation is recommended only for decorative purposes. Since the delicate polymer blades of grass will begin to crush and pull out over time, losing their aesthetics.
- Semi-filled - made from soft polyethylene threads, between which quartz sand is poured. Great for a recreation area, playground, placement of sports complexes. Artificial blades of grass soften the fall well. Recommended for medium use.
- Filling - has tougher fibers that are resistant to heavy loads, they are made of propylene. Between them, in addition to quartz sand, rubber crumb is poured, which absorbs the fall well and softens the friction force. Laying a lawn of this type is recommended in public places, stadiums and areas with high traffic.
In addition to the division into types, there is a gradation according to the place of application: outdoors or indoors. Such coatings differ in the degree of hygroscopicity. Outdoor options pass water well and do not retain it on the surface. Those designed for indoor use are washed much less frequently.
Preparing the ground before laying the turf
Once you have chosen your artificial grass carpet to suit your preferences and needs, you can plan where it will be placed. Given the high cost of such coatings, it is worthwhile to be more scrupulous in calculating the required footage. In addition to the cost of the lawn itself, you will need to consider materials for preparing the substrate.
The base on which the web is to be laid must first of all be:
- flat;
- clean;
- tight.
Only on a well-prepared surface will the artificial turf lie correctly, without displacement or visible joints. You will have to perform a number of necessary steps:
- get rid of weeds - it is more reliable to do this with the help of herbicides;
- level the surface - fill in the holes and remove the bumps;
- compact the soil with a special rammer or vibrating plate;
- check the levelness of the surface - a slope of 3-6 mm per 1 linear meter is allowed;
- build a drain to drain water.
It is always recommended to follow the requirements specified by the polymer turf manufacturer. Since the surface preparation conditions may vary slightly. When constructing drainage to remove excess moisture under the roll cover, use crushed stone of different fractions. Thoroughly water this area with water to identify and correct areas of subsidence in advance.
Artificial turf laying technique
For best results, it is advisable to follow a certain technique and do everything step by step. Self-assembly of canvases is not a very easy task, but subject to important nuances, it is quite feasible.
- Roll out the rolls in the same direction of "growth" of the polymer blades.
- Laying sheets must be butt-to-butt. If there is an uneven edge, it is better to overlap.
- In order for the artificial grass to be leveled and visible traces of storage to disappear, leave the sheets unrolled for at least 12 hours, and preferably for a day.
- In places where there is a large overlap, cut the sheet in the middle with a utility knife. From both pieces of the roll, use a ruler to cut off the excess part so that the gap does not exceed 1 mm.
- Use a special joint tape to fasten the edges of the sheets together. Often it is sold in a kit with a coating.
It is also possible to join the edges with a tension stitcher. Next, the procedure for backfilling the provided filler follows. It can be quartz sand and rubber granules, depending on the type of lawn chosen. The last step is to fix the coating to the substrate. This procedure can be performed with different devices:
- clamping bars;
- nails;
- wire;
- construction staples.
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