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Is ash good for the garden


Using Wood Ash in the Home Garden – Wisconsin Horticulture

Authors: Kevin Schoessow, Extension Burnett, Sawyer and Washburn Counties
Last Revised: 02/27/2020
X-number: XHT1268

Home gardeners often ask if wood ash can be used as a fertilizer in vegetable gardens and flowerbeds, around landscape trees and shrubs, and on lawns.  Wood ash can be a valuable source of certain nutrients and can also be used to modify soil pH.  However, it needs to come from an appropriate source and its use should be based on recommendations from soil fertility testing provided by a professional lab such as the UW Soil and Forage Lab (https://uwlab.soils.wisc.edu/).

Using wood ash in home gardens can increase soil fertility and raise soil pH.

What are the potential benefits of using wood ash?  Wood ash contains nutrients that can be beneficial for plant growth.  Calcium is the plant nutrient most commonly found in wood ash and may comprise 20% or more of its content.  Potassium (also called potash) is another common component of wood ash, occurring at concentrations of up to 5%.  Magnesium, phosphorus and sulfur are also typically found in wood ash at concentrations of up to 2%.  Finally, wood ash can contain trace amounts of iron, aluminum, manganese, zinc, boron and other nutrients needed by plants.

In addition to its nutrient content, wood ash can help in neutralizing soil acidity.  When wood is burned, high amounts of carbonates are produced.  Carbonates react with and neutralize acid in the soil, causing the soil pH to increase.  The levels of carbonates present in wood ash (and thus its acid-neutralizing properties) will vary depending on the type of wood burned and how the wood was burned.  In general, wood ash has about 50% less acid-neutralizing capacity than commercially available acid neutralizers such as pelletized lime or aglime.  Approximately four cups of wood ash can be substituted for one pound of aglime.

What are potential downsides of using wood ash?  On occasion, even the best wood ash may contain heavy metals such as cadmium and lead, but the levels of these metals can be minimized by carefully selecting the wood that is burned to produce the ash (see below for details).   In addition, the increase in soil pH associated with using wood ash tends to decrease the likelihood of plants taking up heavy metals.  If wood ash is used at recommended rates, concentrations of heavy metals should be low enough not to pose a threat to plants, or to animals or humans who eat plants grown in treated areas.  If you are concerned about heavy metals in your wood ash, consider testing for these elements prior to use.  The UW Soil and Forage Lab (mentioned above) does not test for heavy metals at this time; however staff can help answer questions about heavy metal contaminants.

Because using wood ash tends to increase soil pH, applying it where acid-loving plants (e.g., blueberries, azaleas/rhododendrons, birch trees, red maples, pin oaks) are growing will likely not be beneficial.  Using wood ash may actually be detrimental and contribute to problems with chlorosis [see University of Wisconsin Gardens Facts XHT1002 (Chlorosis)].  In addition, many vegetables and other landscape plants prefer slightly acidic soils, so wood ash should be used judiciously when growing these plants.   Finally, in some cases, increased pH due to use of wood ash may promote certain diseases.  As an example, potatoes grown at higher pH tend to be more prone to potato scab [see University of Wisconsin Gardens Facts XHT1117 (Potato Scab)].

In order to use wood ash in the best manner possible, always make applications to garden soils based on the plants that are to be grown and based on recommendations from a certified soil testing lab.

What type of wood ash should I use?  If you decide that using wood ash is appropriate for your gardening needs, only use wood ash that has come from trees grown in natural areas.  DO NOT use wood ash produced from trees grown near industrial sites, in soils that may be contaminated with toxins or heavy metals, or if you have no knowledge of the origin of the wood that you are burning.  Also, DO NOT use ash produced by burning treated wood, waste oil, plastics or garbage.

How do I apply wood ash?  Prior to use, sift wood ash to remove large charcoal pieces, as well as any active embers.   Apply only the amount of wood ash recommended based on a soil fertility test and based on the nutrient needs of the plants that you intend to grow in the treated area.  Applying excessive amounts can lead to nutrient toxicity and/or nutrient deficiency issues in plants.  Applications of wood ash are generally limited to a maximum of 15 to 20 pounds (approximately a five gallon pail) per 1000 sq. ft., per year.  Spread wood ash evenly over the area to be treated (e.g., vegetable garden bed, established perennial flowerbed, lawn or other landscape area) during the winter.  Because wood ash particles are very fine and can easily be blown by the wind, avoid making applications when it is windy.  Whenever possible, apply wood ash to moist soil.  Where feasible (e.g., in a vegetable garden), work the ash into the soil using a rototiller, spade or rake in early spring.

Due to its alkalinity, wood ash can potentially pose a human health risk.  Therefore, when working with it, be sure to wear appropriate protective clothing (e. g., long pants, long sleeve shirt, gloves, eye goggles, dust mask) to limit exposures that might lead to skin, eye or respiratory irritation.

For more information on using wood ash in the home garden, as well as soil fertility testing:  Contact your county Extension agent.

20 Brilliant Ways to Use Wood Ash In The Garden

For many gardeners, wood ash is a plentiful and free resource. If you burn wood, you surely have plenty of wood ash that needs somewhere to go. Even if you don’t burn ash to heat your home, you may have a friend or neighbor who might be happy to let you clear away their ash and put it to good use in your yard or garden.

Wood ash is a free garden amendment that contains many nutrients and beneficial properties.Jump to:

Why Wood Ash?

What does wood ash do for your garden?

Wood ash is a useful fertilizer and amendment that can be used in the garden, on lawns, and in landscapes, too. It is a good source of several important minerals and nutrients for your yard and garden. It is also a highly effective amendment for modifying soil pH.

The most abundant mineral nutrient in wood ash is calcium. On average, the calcium content of wood ash is 20% or higher. Calcium is an important element that helps plants stave off diseases such as the notorious blossom end rot.

Wood ash is also a very good source of potassium—it is about 5% potassium. It is commonly known or referred to as “potash” for this reason, and potassium is the mineral that wood ash is most often used for. When people look for a source of potassium, they look to potash—wood ashes.

Other minerals found in wood ash are magnesium, sulfur, and phosphorous, all found at concentrations around 2%. In addition, wood ash contains trace amounts of manganese, iron, zinc, aluminum, boron, copper, and other trace minerals.

Besides being a source of potash, wood ash is also commonly used as an amendment to adjust soil pH. The high calcium content in wood ash is in the form of calcium carbonate. Calcium carbonate is what is in agricultural lime. One of the major uses of lime in gardening and landscaping is in raising soil pH to reduce its acidity and make it more neutral or alkaline (depending on the goal and how much is used). This makes wood ash an excellent, free resource for amending acidic soils or soils with a low pH.

It should be noted that the content and concentration of wood ash varies depending on the source, which is why we see an estimated range in contents and their numbers. If you would like to know more exact amounts of these nutrients in your wood ash you can have it tested.

How To Use Wood Ash in the Garden or Landscape:

Wood ash is very easy to use for the lawn and garden. The key lies in knowing when to use it, how much to apply, and what it is and isn’t good for.

When Should I Apply Wood Ash to my Garden?

Wood ash goes to work very quickly in the soil, so it can be applied shortly before planting, or even used as a top dressing.

Wood ash is a good annual soil amendment and fertilizer as long as it is not used on the “wrong” plants. The best time of year to apply wood ash to your garden or yard is over the course of the winter or in the early spring.

Look to wood ash when you need to add potassium (potash), sweeten acidic soil, and/or increase levels of calcium or phosphorous.

Fortunately, wood ash works relatively fast and so it can be applied almost up to planting time (and in some instances, as a top dressing or side dressing). For best results, it is recommended to apply it at least a month before planting.

When used as an amendment to adjust soil pH, wood ash only needs about a month to work. It works much more quickly than lime, so if you have missed your window and need a quick fix for soil pH, wood ash is a better choice.

As a rule of thumb, it is not recommended that you apply wood ash to soils that have a pH level of 6.5 to 7 or higher because it will make the soil too alkaline; however, that depends on how high a pH you are trying to achieve. If a more alkaline soil is the goal, wood ash will still be an option.

Ash can be used in place of lime for lawns as well. You will need to adjust the application rate to achieve the desired results (see the section on application rates below).

How Do I Apply Wood Ash to my Garden?

“Safety first” applies to using wood ash just as it would for any other type of fertilizer or amendment.

The first rule is to make sure that the ash you are spreading is well cooled and is no longer burning. Be aware that when ash is piled or bucketed when still hot the inner layers can hold heat and smolder for quite some time—days even. Avoid handling or spreading hot ash. Take care not to burn yourself and be especially careful if you live in a dry or fire-prone area.

Before you apply ash to your garden, sift out large chunks of unburned wood and coals.

If the ash you are using has large coals or chunks of unburned wood in it, sift the large pieces out before you spread it on your lawn or garden. This can be done by simply pouring the cool ash through a screen of one-quarter or one-half inch hardware cloth.

Wood ash is obviously quite light and can be irritating to the eyes, nose, respiratory tract, and to bare skin.

It is wise to wear safety glasses or goggles, long sleeves and long pants, gloves, and a mask or covering for the nose and mouth when you are applying wood ash. Avoid breathing in ash and do not spread ash on a windy day (not only is this less safe, but you may end up wasting this valuable amendment and fertilizer if it blows away).

Spread wood ash evenly and do not leave large clumps or piles which can result in too many salts concentrating in one area. Up to a half inch of ash is fine. Note that as an amendment to help improve soil tilth, heavy clay soils can take more ash than sandy soils can.

It is best to apply wood ash onto moist soil so that it stays where it is needed. If that is not possible, you may want to sprinkle or water the area after application. If spreading on loose soil, work the ash in as soon as possible to maximize its benefits.

How Much Wood Ash Should I Use in my Yard or Garden?

The application rate for wood ash will vary slightly depending on where you are using it and for what purpose.

Wood Ash Application Rate for Gardens and Flower Beds

A five-gallon bucket of ash is equal to about 20 pounds.

In the garden, the application rate for wood ash is between 15 and 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. This is roughly equal to the amount of ash that you will get from burning one cord of wood.

A five-gallon bucket holds about 20 pounds of wood ash. So, to make it easy, use one five-gallon bucket of clean wood ash for every 1,000 square feet of ground.

If you are applying ash as a top-dressing fertilizer or amendment around individual bushes, spread one-half to one pound evenly around the base of the bush.

For individual plants, sprinkle no more than one-half inch thick around the root area at the base of the plant.

For larger trees and fruit trees, apply to the area of the base of the tree to a thickness of one inch deep.

Wood Ash Application Rate for Grass and Lawns

Wood ash should be applied at a slightly lower rate when used as an amendment for grass and lawns. It can replace lime for your lawn.

When applying to lawns, the wood ash application rate is a little lower. In that case, apply wood ash at a rate of 10 to 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

As mentioned previously, wood ash can be used in place of lime on gardens or lawns to increase the pH. If you have a good wood ash supply, you may want to switch that out and use ash in place of your annual liming. Note that wood ash has about half the concentration of calcium carbonate that lime has; so, as a replacement for lime, use twice as much wood ash as you would lime. Four cups (or one quart) is equal to about one pound of lime.

One of the benefits of using wood ash instead of lime is that it acts faster and affects a change more quickly than lime can. You should see results from wood ash within in a month. If you are soil testing, wait 30 days to test a second time to see if the desired results have been achieved. If not, you may apply wood ash a second time.

It is not advisable to use more than the recommended amount because overuse of wood ash can lead to pH problems in the soil.

Some Notes on Wood Ash Application

Learn how when, and where to apply wood ash and your garden will reward you.

Wood ash should be used judiciously. It is possible to overdo it with wood ash. A soil test—whether an at-home soil test or a test performed by a lab—is a good idea. Perform your test before applying wood ash so you know what nutrients your yard or garden may need and/or so you know if the soil pH needs to be raised. Calcium, phosphorous, pH, and other nutrients will be your main targets.

This is especially smart for vegetable plots because most vegetables want their soil to be a little on the acidic side (in the range of 6. 0 to 7.0). Depending on the natural acidity of your soil, you may need to reduce or suspend the amount of ash you apply so that you don’t change the pH too much (i.e., so that it is not made too alkaline for good plant performance).

Know the wants and needs of the plants you are growing. Not all plants have the same requirements, so you may need to use your wood ash selectively—apply the ash to some parts of the garden but not to others where the ash may pose a problem for the planned crop (see below for a list of plants to avoid using ash on).

More is not necessarily better if the amendment is not needed. Too much ash can cause “nutrient toxicity”. It might also cause the soil pH to be too high. Nutrient toxicity can result in plant deficiencies and imbalances. Imbalanced soil or soil with a pH level that is drastically off can make important minerals and nutrients inaccessible to plants, even if those minerals are abundant in the soil.

Overuse of ash and high soil pH can cause scab on potatoes, so, like lime, wood ash use should often be avoided where potatoes will be planted.

Chlorosis is another plant disease that can result from overuse of ash in the garden. It is characterized by a yellowing of the leaves which results from an interference with photosynthesis.

Plants That Benefit from Wood Ash Application

Ash is beneficial for many plants and bushes, but some are particularly partial to it. These include:

Plants to Avoid or Limit the Use of Wood Ash

Ash is not a good choice for plants that like acidic soils.

Ash is not recommended for use on all plants. These are usually the plants, trees, and shrubs that prefer more acidic soil and a lower pH. Avoid using wood ash on:

Using Other Fertilizers with Wood Ash

After applying wood ash you should test your soil before applying other fertilizers--you may not need them.

After applying wood ash, you should wait one month before applying other types of fertilizers. By this time the effects of the ash will be known. You may or may not need to apply other fertilizers once the ash has acted and it is quite likely that you will not need to apply all the fertilizers that you normally would.

When using wood ash as a fertilizer, nutrients such as phosphorous should be covered. If you do need to apply another fertilizer, nitrogen is what your soil is most likely to need.

Using Wood Ash in Compost

Extra wood ash is perfect for adding to your compost pile.

Wood ash is a great addition to the compost pile. If you are not using your ash directly on your lawn or garden, use any remaining ash in your compost heap.

Just like when it is applied to soil, wood ash helps to control the acidity levels in your compost pile, too, and helps to keep the resulting compost at a near neutral level; quality, neutral compost is more widely useful as it will not affect the acidity levels for different plants. Ash also (to a lesser degree) helps with texture and tilth and may help mitigate strong odors in your compost pile.

Spread wood ash evenly over the layers of material in your compost pile. A good rate is a layer of ash applied to every six-inch layer of material. Apply a light layer between one-quarter and one-half inch thick.

Sourcing Wood Ash for Gardens, Lawns, and Landscapes

One obvious source of good wood ash for your garden is your wood-burning home heating source (or a neighbor's!).

If you burn wood as a home heat source, you are in luck and have at least one source of wood ash for your garden. There are other places you can look for ash to use in gardening and landscaping, though. Here are some top sources:

Don’t think only of your own personal wood-burning sources—think of those of your neighbors as well. If friends or neighbors will not be using their ash waste themselves, they’ll probably be more than happy to let you take it off their hands. Ash from hardwood sources like maple, beech, and oak is more nutrient-dense than that of softwoods like pine and fir, but all are good sources and are useful in the garden.

Addressing Concerns Regarding Heavy Metal in Wood Ash

One way to minimize any potential risks of using wood ash in your garden is to know that the wood source from where it came is contamination-free.

There are instances where wood ash can sometimes contain heavy metals. According to the University of Wisconsin https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/using-wood-ash-in-the-home-garden/ this is an occasional issue which can be further reduced by proper application and by informed selection of the types and sources of wood and ash being used for food production. Also, the rise in soil pH that results from applying wood ash means that plants do not uptake heavy metals from the soil very readily (whether those metals already existed in the soil or are the result of ash content). The risk to plants and their consumers (whether animal or human) is therefore low. To minimize the risk of heavy metals from ash use:

As long as your wood supply does not come from a contaminated area and the wood is not treated, it should be safe to use.

What constitutes a clean, natural wood source? It’s simple. Avoid wood and ash from:

Storing Ash for Later Use in the Garden or Landscape

If you are not using your ash right away it should be kept dry and out of the weather (for example, if you are storing ash to apply to the garden later and are not spreading it right away or using it immediately in the compost heap). Beneficial salts and nutrients will leach out of the ash with rain, melt, and water.

To preserve the integrity of your wood ash, it is best to store it in a metal container with a cover (making sure that it is cooled and no longer burning, of course!).

A galvanized metal garbage can works well.

Other Home and Garden Uses for Wood Ash

There are many handy, surprising ways to use wood ash in the home and garden!

If you have an excess of wood ash from your heating and burning, there are still more useful ways to use that wood ash, rather than waste it. Use extra wood ash to:

As you can see, ash is a lot more than waste. This heating byproduct is an excellent resource for the garden, and for the home, yard, and landscape, too.

Research and resources for additional reading:

https://extension.unh.edu/sites/default/files/migrated_unmanaged_files/Resource004042_Rep5718.pdf

https://pss.uvm.edu/ppp/articles/woodash.html

https://www.almanac.com/video/how-use-wood-ash-vegetable-garden#

https://site.extension.uga.edu/fannin-gilmer/2020/12/using-wood-ash-in-the-garden/

https://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2279e/#

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/using-wood-ashes.htm

Wood ash - natural fertilizer. Application, use. Properties, benefits, composition - Botanichka

Do not forget that wood ash is the most valuable fertilizer. It contains in an accessible form all the nutrients needed by the plant (with the exception of nitrogen), but it is especially rich in potassium.

Wood ash. © orangepost

Ash application

Wood ash is a good potash and phosphate fertilizer for acidic or neutral soils. In addition to potassium and phosphorus, which are in the ash in a form readily available to plants, ash contains calcium, magnesium, iron, sulfur and zinc, as well as many trace elements necessary for vegetables, perennials, as well as fruit and ornamental trees.

Ash does not contain chlorine, so it is good to use it for plants that react negatively to chlorine: strawberries , raspberries , currants , potatoes .

Cabbage various types of ash will protect against diseases such as clubroot and black leg. Responsive to its introduction and cucumbers, zucchini, squash. It is enough to add 1-2 tablespoons of ash to the hole when planting seedlings or one glass per square meter when digging the beds.

When planting seedlings sweet peppers , eggplants and tomatoes , add 3 tablespoons of ash to the hole and mix it with the soil, or apply 3 cups per square meter during soil cultivation.

The introduction of ash into planting pits and tree trunks cherries and plums has a very favorable effect. Once every 3-4 years it is useful to feed them with ashes. To do this, a groove 10-15 cm deep is made along the perimeter of the crown, into which ash is poured or an ash solution is poured (2 cups of ash per bucket of water). The trench is immediately sealed with earth. For an adult tree give about 2 kg. ash.

Black currant bushes respond well to ash : three glasses of ash are applied under each bush and immediately buried in the soil.

To prepare liquid fertilizer from ash take 100-150 g per bucket of water. The solution, continuously mixing, is carefully poured into the grooves and immediately covered with soil. Under tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, about half a liter of solution is applied per plant.

Use wood ash and to sprinkle and spray plants against pests and diseases. Sprinkle the plants with ashes early in the morning, by dew, or after spraying them with clean water. The plant treatment solution is prepared as follows. Pour boiling water over 300 g of sifted ash and boil for 20-30 minutes. The broth is defended, filtered, diluted with water up to 10 liters and 40-50 g of soap are added. Plants are sprayed in the evening in dry weather. To repel slugs and snails, sprinkle dry ash near the stems and around their favorite plants.

Heavy soils bring ash for digging in autumn and spring, and on light sandy loam - only in spring. Application rate - 100-200 g per square meter. Ash fertilizes and alkalizes the soil, creates favorable conditions for the vital activity of soil microorganisms, especially nitrogen-fixing bacteria. The introduction of ash into the soil increases the viability of plants, they take root faster during transplantation and get sick less.

The action of the ash lasts up to 2-4 years after being applied to the soil.

Useful numbers

1 tablespoon contains 6 g of ash, in a faceted glass - 100 g, in a half-liter jar - 250 g, in a liter jar - 500 g of ash.

Collected ash should be stored in a dry place, as moisture leads to the loss of potassium and trace elements.

Which ash is healthier?

The most valuable ash is obtained by burning herbaceous plants, such as sunflower and buckwheat, which can contain up to 36% K 2 O. Of the tree species, potassium is most abundant in the ashes of deciduous trees, especially birch. The least potassium and phosphorus in peat ash, but there is a lot of calcium.

Ash is good because phosphorus and potassium are in it in a form easily accessible to plants. Phosphorus from ash is used even better than from superphosphate. Another great value of ash is the almost complete absence of chlorine, which means it can be used for crops that are especially sensitive to this element and react negatively to it. These plants include: raspberries, currants, strawberries, grapes, citrus fruits, potatoes and a number of vegetable crops. Ash also contains iron, magnesium, boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, and sulfur.

Wood ash

Which ash to apply for different types of soil?

Sandy, sandy loamy, soddy-podzolic and bog soils - application of 70 g of ash per 1 m² fully satisfies the need of most plants for boron.

For any type of soil, except solonetsous, wood and straw ash can be applied. This alkaline fertilizer is especially suitable for acidic soddy-podzolic, gray forest, marsh-podzolic and marsh soils, which are poor in potassium, phosphorus, and trace elements. Ash not only enriches the soil with nutrients, but also improves its structure, reduces its acidity. This creates favorable conditions for the development of beneficial microflora, resulting in increased yields. The effects of such fertilizer can be felt up to 4 years.

To neutralize acidic soils, peat ash (0.5-0.7 kg per m²) can be used, as well as oil shale ash containing up to 80% lime.

On loamy and clayey soils, wood and straw ash is recommended for autumn digging, and on sandy and sandy soils - in spring.

Use of ash

For vegetables, raspberries, strawberries, currants, you can use wood and straw ash - 100-150 g per m², for potatoes - 60-100 g per m². Peas eat well ash - 150-200 g per m².

Ash is also added when planting seedlings of vegetable crops - 8-10 g of ash is added to the hole, mixing it with soil or humus.

For top dressing take 30-50 g per m².

Apply 100-150 g per 1 m² for fruit trees. Ash must be buried in the soil to a depth of at least 8-10 cm, since left on the surface, it forms a crust that is harmful to plants and microflora.

To improve efficiency, wood and straw ash is best used together with peat or humus as an organo-mineral mixture (1 part of the ash is mixed with 2-4 parts of wet peat or humus). Such a mixture allows you to evenly distribute the fertilizer over the site, and the plants better absorb the nutrients in it.

It is correct and beneficial to use ash in composts to accelerate the decomposition of organic matter. For the preparation of peat-ash composts, 25-50 kg are taken per 1 ton of peat. wood ash or 50-100 kg. peat (depending on the acidity of peat), while its acidity is also neutralized.

Do not mix ash with ammonium sulfate, as well as with manure, slurry, feces, bird droppings - this leads to loss of nitrogen. Mixing with superphosphate, phosphate rock and thomas slag reduces the availability of phosphorus to plants. For the same reason, ash must not be applied with lime and used on recently limed soils.

Wood ash. © HillbillyMatt

Wood and straw ash can also be used to control diseases and pests, such as gray mold of strawberries. During the ripening period of berries, bushes are pollinated at the rate of 10-15 g of ash per bush. Sometimes pollination is repeated 2-3 times, but less ash is consumed - 5-7 g per bush. The disease is sharply reduced and almost completely stops.

The ash is also well suited for the control of powdery mildew of currants, cucumbers, gooseberries, cherry slime sawfly and other pests and diseases. For this, the plants are sprayed with a solution: 300 g of sifted ash is boiled for half an hour, the settled broth is filtered and brought to 10 liters. For better adhesion add 40 g of any soap. It is better to spray plants in the evening in calm weather. This treatment can be done 2-3 times a month.

Ash must be stored in a dry place, as it absorbs moisture well. And water leaches nutrients from the ash, primarily potassium, and its value as a fertilizer is sharply reduced.

We are waiting for your advice!

Ash in the garden and garden - what happens, where to get it and how to use it? Photo - Botanichka

There were times when all heating and cooking was based solely on burning firewood - there was ash ... They used it wherever possible: they made lye for washing and washing, and cleaned dishes, and poured into cesspools to smell there were none, and mice and rats were scared away, and chickens were rid of parasites, and they themselves were treated. They even bleached their hair. In the garden, the garden was still used in every way. And now some summer residents have to buy ash in the store. Tell someone in the outback, in the village - they will laugh. And in vain! This is business. But I, in fact, am not talking about business, but about using it in the garden. Not only for plant nutrition, but also for a variety of household needs.

Ash in the garden - what happens, where to get it and how to use it?

What kind of ash is there?

The problem of using ash appeared after buying a house in the Kuban. Gas has not reached our village yet, the plans for the next year will be ten years already. Therefore, the entire heating system is connected to a wood-burning boiler. And in the very first winter it turned out that he produces quite a lot of ashes - it's not like frying kebabs once a week. I had to study the topic thoroughly.

So, from the very beginning: ash is a non-combustible residue of any kind of fuel. In this case, we will talk about the ash that remains after the burning of plant residues, mainly wood.

Ash from the combustion of plastic, chipboard, synthetic materials and even wood, but treated with varnish, paints and impregnations, is not considered, since there is no benefit, except harm, from it.

Combustion of coal, especially low-grade coal, produces low-use ash with a high content of sulfates (sulphuric acid salts) and it will be effective only when mixed with compost. By the way, due to sulfates, coal ash acidifies the soil, unlike the rest, which, on the contrary, alkalizes.

Sulfur lovers in the garden (onions, cabbages, garlic, legumes, radishes) will be grateful for feeding with compost with coal ash. And the use of pure coal ash can give hydrangeas a blue color.

Peat ash is much inferior to wood ash in terms of the content of the main elements: potassium, calcium and phosphorus.

Ash from the burning of sunflower stalks, buckwheat is very useful in the economy, but now it is already exotic. Those who know buckwheat and sunflower farmers are lucky and can have an environmentally friendly high-potassium fertilizer.

The most common ash is wood ash. It is also different: coniferous ash is worse, hardwood ash is better in terms of mineral composition. The highest content of nutrients in the ashes of hardwoods: hornbeam, oak, birch, beech. From fruit trees - dogwood, cherry, sweet cherry, apple tree, pear. The most fragrant kebabs are obtained by frying on branches of apple, cherry, plum, and even better on walnuts.

Burning dry tops, cuttings of vines, branches of shrubs and trees can produce ash, even more saturated with microelements than wood ash.

Wood ash does not contain nitrogen, but contains almost all other elements necessary for plants - it is also obtained from plants. And the form of these elements for plants is quite digestible. Ash has no analogues among mineral fertilizers, even complex ones.

Coal ash will only be effective when mixed with compost. © STIHL

Where to get and where to put the ashes?

This is where they heat with firewood, there is an abundance of ash. For the vast majority of summer residents, obtaining it has already become (given changes in the legislation regarding the burning of something on the site) a problem. All hope for the brazier, although now everything is not so simple with him. That is, those who have wood-burning stoves become the owners of a very valuable resource. But most of the time, they don't care at all.

Therefore, making friends with the surrounding local people who have a wood-burning stove is definitely useful. Or actively use the barbecue, barbecue, and also regularly take a steam bath in the bath, whoever has it.

Well, for example, we ate shish kebabs, steamed up in the bathhouse, and in the morning we got half a bucket of ashes that had already cooled down. The first step is to make an ash solution in the ratio: a glass of ash per 10 liters of water. This is a universal balanced top dressing for almost all plants, with the exception of lovers of acidic soils.

First, it is advisable to feed those plants that have set and pour fruits - with potash top dressing, all fruits are tastier. Strain and spray the plants over the leaves. Not only is it a good foliar top dressing, but also the prevention of fungal diseases.

Pour the remaining thick between the garden strawberry bushes to poison the existence of slugs and weevils. If there is still ash left after spraying, it’s a good idea to make an ash solution again and pour it around the perimeter of the crown of trees that have tied fruit - it doesn’t matter which ones. They will all be grateful. But stone fruits - especially.

It will not be out of place to look at the weather forecast: if rains are expected, you can simply pour ashes into the root zone of plants, a glass per square meter.

If suddenly the steam room and kebabs stretched out for a week and the ash remained, you need to collect it and store it in a metal container, closed with a lid, somewhere under a canopy or indoors: potassium is quickly washed out of the ash with water, and fly ash (if it is suddenly blown away by the wind ) is very harmful to the respiratory tract.

Read also our article How to use needles in the garden?

In the absence of a stove for obtaining ash, it is useful to actively use a barbecue, barbecue, and also regularly take a steam bath in a bathhouse, who has one

Seasonal use of ash

In different seasons, the use of ash can be very diverse: in spring it is good to apply dry ash to the soil when digging for those who dig, and on the surface - for those who do not dig. Approximately 2-3 cups per square meter. It is worth considering that ash from sandy soil (and not only ash, but everything useful) is quickly washed out by rain and water during irrigation. In this case, it is better to feed the plants with a leaf solution, because the ash applied before sowing will be washed out before the plants grow roots and can reach it.

When pruning trees in spring it is good to sprinkle the cuts with ashes. And when whitewashing trunks, in addition to copper sulphate, it’s a good idea to add ash to the solution (a glass of 5 liters) - this is all protection against fungal diseases.

It is advisable to sprinkle garden strawberries with ashes during the period of regrowth of young leaves . That is, the strawberry itself, and the land around it. In addition to the actual feeding, this operation will be very unpleasant for weevils getting out of the ground - it is disgusting for them to gnaw the leaves sprinkled with ash.

The lawn, when sprinkled with ashes in spring, will look noticeably more cheerful and grow better.

When planting potatoes , dusting the tubers with ash will protect them from fungal diseases and will help build up a strong root system at the start.

The whole cabbage family , from early radishes to late autumn radishes and cabbages, will be grateful for occasional sprinkling of ash in the morning over the dew (so that the ash sticks). This operation greatly spoils the appetite of both cruciferous fleas and slugs. At the same time, and somewhat interrupted by a strong smell coming from plants and attracting cabbage butterflies.

When planting any seedling , it is a good idea to add ashes to the hole, mixing with the soil, about half a handful per plant.

After fruit set all plants can be sprayed regularly with ash infusion. Pour 1/3 bucket of ash with hot water to the top, leave for two days, drain, mix with a spoonful of liquid soap. This, in addition to top dressing, will also be protection against leaf-eating pests: sawflies, scoops, aphids, leafworms, moths. Prevents powdery mildew on currants and gooseberries.

Compost , when pouring layers of organic matter with ash, will be enriched with useful micro- and macroelements, and pathogenic microorganisms will decrease.

In autumn, ash will also be needed , because potassium helps to increase the winter hardiness of plants - it is good to bring perennials, shrubs and fruit trees into the root zone. Once again, the most high-potassium ash is from the burning of corn stalks and buckwheat.

During autumn (and spring too) division of plants sections of rhizomes are useful to dust with ash to protect them from decay.

It is advisable to sprinkle garden strawberries with ashes during the period of regrowth of young leaves

Safety precautions

Everything is good in moderation. And this has the most direct relation to the use of ash. Excess potassium, which is rich in ash, prevents the absorption of certain elements, including nitrogen. Therefore, you don’t need too much, especially during the period of active growth - the plants will lag behind in development.

The highest potassium ash is found in sunflower and buckwheat stalks, followed by wood ash. It also contains a lot of calcium, which, in excess, does not allow iron compounds to be absorbed and leads to leaf chlorosis.

The use of ash is beneficial for plants on acidic (especially) and slightly acidic soils. On alkaline soils, it is better to use it as part of compost, because the presence of calcium compounds further alkalizes the soil.

It is necessary to use ash for feeding acidophilic plants, that is, lovers of acidic soils (rhododendrons, hydrangeas, garden blueberries, ferns, magnolias, conifers, sorrel), you need to be very careful, and even then if the soil is really acidic, and not formed acidic in a particular area.

Ash does not need to be mixed with other mineral fertilizers: ash and nitrogen neutralize each other's beneficial properties, and ash mixed with phosphates can destroy plants altogether.

Most of the overdose horror stories are about soil depleted of microorganisms. Therefore, in organic farming, ash is more beneficial than in traditional farming: the abundance of fungi, bacteria, and protozoa in the soil can quickly convert many elements into a form that is digestible for plants.

The rhizosphere (surrounding the suction root of microorganisms) will not allow the root to be burned by salts, but will provide it with everything necessary. This is also why the ashes do not need to be brought into the sterile soil for seedlings - there is no one to protect the young roots, and the salts will only complicate the life of the seedlings.

Read also our article What can and cannot be composted?

Lye multi-purpose - good for washing hair, laundry and washing dishes. © Vadim Karabinsky

Bonuses from using ashes in the garden

This one will be interesting for those who have a lot of ash. Ash paste, slightly diluted with water, perfectly cleans dishes, as well as silver, glass and metal products.

Ash can be used to absorb odors in the refrigerator - just remember to change it periodically. To neutralize the smell of a country toilet, ash is also used - they simply pour it into a cesspool.

In country conditions, if you need to bleach something, you can boil the thing with the addition of ash. Ash is added in a bag. The result can surprise.

Cat food contains ash, which is very beneficial for the animals. Therefore, if pets eat "from the table", then it is useful to add a pinch of ash to their portion.

Multi Purpose Lye is very easy to make.

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