How to prune spanish lavender
Plant Care & Growing Guide
Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is one of about 40 different varieties of lavender. It grows as a low shrub, much like its other relatives, but has a distinct flower shape. Spanish lavender is known for its upright petals that appear at the top of the flower heads, giving the blooms a rabbit-like appearance. The leaves are edible (to humans) and can be used in moderation to flavor savory dishes or baked goods.
Depending on the cultivar, Spanish lavender can be found with pink, purple, or white flowers. These plants are adorned with small, gray-green leaves and grow in a compact rounded shape. Spanish lavender is more heat tolerant than other lavender species. This perennial is deer-resistant but also considered toxic to animals, so keep that in mind if your pets frequently spend time unsupervised in your garden.
| Common Name | Spanish lavender, butterfly lavender, bract lavender |
| Botanical Name | Lavendula stoechas |
| Family | Lamiaceae |
| Plant Type | Perennial, shrub, herb |
| Mature Size | 18-36 in. |
| Sun Exposure | Full |
| Soil Type | Sandy, moist but well-drained |
| Soil pH | Acidic, neutral |
| Bloom Time | Spring, summer |
| Flower Color | Pink, purple, white |
| Hardiness Zones | 8a-9b (USDA) |
| Native Area | Europe, Africa, Mediterranean |
| Toxicity | Toxic to pets |
Types of Spanish Lavender
With more than 450 different types of lavender spread over several species, it can be hard to tell the difference. For garden cultivation, Spanish lavender is distinguished from French and English (common) lavender in this way:
- English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the most common form of lavender for garden cultivation, and also the type most often used in cooking and for decorative use, thanks to its heady aroma.
It is hardy in zones 5 to 8. L. angustifolia is sometimes known as common lavender. - French lavender (Lavandula dentata) is a less fragrant species of lavender with serrated leaves. It is hardy and evergreen in USDA zone 8 to 11. It is not a very common garden plant in the United States when compared to English lavender.
- Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is hardy in zones 8 and 9. Its leaves are more silvery than other species, and colors range from pink to deep purple, depending on the cultivar. It is sometimes preferred to other types for its unusual flowers featuring tufted ears. (Confusingly, L. stoechas is sometimes also known as French lavender.)
- Lavendula x intermedia is a hybrid between L. angustifolia and L. latifolia. Hardy in zones 5 to 8, it is normally grown for the substantial amount of fragrant oil it contains rather than as an ornamental garden specimen.
It is somewhat more tolerant of hot, dry weather than other species and can be a good choice for rocky, dry garden sites.
Within the Spanish lavender species, here are some of the better cultivars:
- ‘Strawberry Ruffles’: This cultivar of Spanish lavender is known for its ruffled petals and bright pink blooms.
- ‘Silver Anouk’: Adorned in silver-gray foliage, it produces two-toned purple flowers.
- ‘Kew Red’: Deep pinkish-red blooms that are topped with pale pink petals.
- 'Alba': This cultivar has white blooms.
- 'Fathead': This variety has long-lasting dark purple flowers that gradually fade to pink. The foliage is silvery green.
- 'Regal Splendour': This type has long flower heads in violet blue, topped by bracts forming pink "ears."
Spanish Lavender Care
Spanish lavender is easy to care for and does not require much attention once established.
This variety is more tolerant of heat than other popular lavender varieties. It grows well in containers, enjoys plenty of sunshine, and does not have significant watering needs. Spanish lavender does not struggle with many pests or diseases, but it may encounter spittlebugs or fungal diseases. It is deer-resistant. Although individual plants will grow substantially in width as they mature, Spanish lavender does not spread though root extension, so you don't need to worry about invasiveness.
The Spruce / Evgeniya Vlasova
The Spruce / Evgeniya Vlasova
The Spruce / Evgeniya Vlasova
Light
Like other lavender varieties, Spanish lavender requires full sun to thrive and produce its fragrant blooms.
Soil
Spanish lavender needs sandy, gravely, well-draining soil to grow healthy and lush. These plants prefer slightly moist soil, but any standing water or slow-draining soil will spell disaster for Spanish lavender. If your soil is composed of clay, be sure to amend it with sand or gravel before planting this herb.
Water
Similar to other lavender varieties, Spanish lavender does not require much water and can withstand periods of drought. However, the best growing conditions involve slightly moist soil, so water these plants before the soil dries out completely. To avoid problems with fungal diseases, it is best to water at soil level to avoid getting the leaves wet.
Temperature and Humidity
Spanish lavender is native to the Mediterranean and does well in hot, dry climates. It thrives in zones 8a to 9b and is a better choice for warmer temperature zones than other popular lavender varieties. However, it’s not as cold-hardy as other varieties of lavender and must stay in a zone where winter temperatures do not drop below 10 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Spanish lavender is native to areas with sandy, poor quality soil and prefers soil that is low in nutrients. Because of this, Spanish lavender does not require fertilizer and often does best without it.
Pruning
Like other lavender varieties, pruning will encourage Spanish lavender to branch, creating a denser, thicker plant. However, care must be taken to avoid over-pruning these plants. To properly prune lavender, simply trim away around one-third of the plant’s growth after its first flush of flowers. This is also the perfect time to harvest those sweet-smelling flower buds. Prune about one-third of the plant’s growth again after the second flush of blooms fades.
Propagating Spanish Lavender
Propagating Spanish lavender through cuttings is easy and rewarding. You will need a pair of sharp garden snips, a small pot, well-draining soil, a plastic bag, and a rubber band. Then follow these instructions:
- Take cuttings in the spring or fall. Snip where the new growth meets the old and aim to remove a cutting with no flowers.
- Remove all the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
- Gently plant the stripped end into well-draining dirt.
Keep the soil level to just below where the leaves start. - Place the plastic bag over the cutting to keep in moisture. Secure it around the pot with a rubber band.
- Keep the soil moist until the plant is established. Check for roots by gently tugging on the cutting. When there is resistance, roots have formed. Remove the plastic bag once this occurs.
- Alternatively, you can place your cuttings in a glass of water until roots appear. Be sure the water does not soak the leaves. Once healthy roots form, plant the cutting in soil.
How to Grow Spanish Lavender From Seed
Spanish lavender can also be grown from seed. Here is how to do it:
- Spanish lavender seeds have the best outcome when started indoors. Sow the seeds into well-draining soil in small pots and cover them lightly.
- Keep the seeds in a cool place. Regularly check the soil, making sure to keep it moist.
- Germination should occur in about 2 weeks.
- Keep the seedlings in a sunny location.
- When seedlings are big enough to handle, transfer them to their own pots or plant in the garden in the spring.
Potting and Repotting Spanish Lavender
Spanish lavender grows very well in containers. When choosing a container, be sure it has multiple drainage holes and drains water freely. Because a potted plant does not have access to underground water sources, potted lavender will need to be watered more often than lavender planted in the garden. Water deeply and infrequently when the soil feels dry. These plants often need to be repotted yearly. To do this, gently tip the pot onto its side and tap around the outside of the pot. This will loosen the root system. Gently slide the lavender out and place it in its new pot. Fill the pot with sandy, well-draining soil and place it in a sunny location.
Overwintering
When grown in its appropriate growing zones, Spanish lavender does not require much extra attention to survive the winter.
Simply add an extra layer of mulch around the plant to help insulate the root system. Cut back on watering and only water if the winter is exceptionally dry. For potted lavender, move it to a sheltered area away from harsh temperatures or winds.
How to Get Spanish Lavender to Bloom
Spanish lavender is known for its unique blooms, often described as purple pineapples or as having rabbit ears. They have a beautiful lavender aroma and may appear in two large flushes of blooms each year. Spanish lavender begins to bloom in the spring and continues throughout the summer.
To encourage blooming, plant Spanish lavender in full sunshine. Deadhead spent blooms throughout the year and prune twice a year. The first pruning should be done after the first flush of blooms. Remove about one-third of that year’s growth to encourage a second flush of blooms. Then repeat the process to prepare the plant for fall.
Common Problems With Spanish Lavender
Spanish lavender is rather hardy and does not often struggle with pests or other problems.
However, foliage problems can be caused by subpar soil or moisture conditions.
Yellowing, Browning, Drooping Leaves
This can be a sign of root rot. Because Spanish lavender needs well-draining soil and minimal moisture, it is susceptible to developing root rot in overly wet conditions. If you suspect that a plant has root rot, cut back on watering. Remove any organic material, such as fallen leaves, around the plant. Then gently dig up the plant to inspect the roots. Remove any rotting roots with a clean pair of snips, then plant the lavender in an area with well-draining soil and full sunshine. Be sure to give the plant adequate airflow.
Leggy, Yellow Foliage, and Few Flowers
This is a sign of too much nitrogen and is often caused by giving the plant too much fertilizer. If this is the case, stop fertilizing. Then remove the lavender from the rich soil. Either amend the soil with sand and gravel or move the lavender to a pot. Prune around one-third of the leggy growth in the spring or fall to help the lavender regain its compact shape.
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Lavender. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA)
Lavender. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA)
How and When to Prune Different Types of Lavender
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How and When to Prune Different Types of Lavender
The soothing smell, gorgeous blooms, and tidy habit of lavender make it one of the most prized plants in most gardens. While lavender is low-maintenance in terms of water and soil needs, it does need a specific approach in pruning, especially once it has become a mature, established plant. We all want to keep lavender in our garden for the long run, so it's important to know how to prune it to ensure a prolific crop of flowers and tidy foliage comes back year after year.
How and when to prune lavender varies depending on the type of lavender you’re growing. Here are tips for pruning the three most common types of lavender. Follow the advice and you're sure to have healthy, beautiful lavender growing in your garden every year.
How and When to Prune English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
This is the classic English lavender is beloved not only for its memorable fragrance but also for the silvery foliage and stems that add texture to a border. It’s one of the hardier and most commonly grown lavenders with blooms that come on strong in early summer. (And, it makes a great short hedge!)
When and how to prune:
- Prune right after the first flowering and again in late August after the last flush has faded.
- Cut off about 2/3 of the plant’s height or to just above the bottom two sets of leaves on each stem.
- Take care not to cut into the woody part of the plant which can cause damage.
- Twice-a-year pruning will keep your plant healthy and compact.
Pictured left: Munstead Lavender, Zones 5 – 9
How and When to Prune English Hybrids (Lavandula x intermedia)
The glam, later flowering lavender (Lavandula x intermedia) has long flowering stems topped by slender tapering flower heads with stems that splay outwards from a rounded mound of foliage. Use them make as the centerpiece of a border or to highlight corners and edges of beds or where you can enjoy the movement with every breeze.
When and how to prune:
- Prune in late August after they’ve finished blooming.
- Less hardy than their English cousins take extra care not to cut back into the woody part of the plant.
- Cut back by about 1/2 of the height of the plant leaving plenty of green leaves intact.
- Aim for a tidy, rounded mound of foliage (that looks good in winter, too).
Pictured left: Riverina Thomas French Lavender Zones 5 – 9
How and When to Prune Non-English Lavender (French, Spanish, Wooly, etc.
)These ‘tufted lavenders’ have full, thick flower spikes and flower much earlier, in late spring in warmer zones and early summer in colder zones, and often bloom right into fall. Such a diverse collection of lavenders with plenty of variation in fragrance, size, color, texture, and flower heads makes them fun to play with in the garden.
When and how to prune:
- The least hardy of the garden lavenders which means they need a bit more of a gentle touch.
- Give them a trim after the first flush of flowers has faded.
- Do not cut them back hard as with other kinds of lavenders (it can kill them).
- Deadhead for the rest of the season.
- In late summer shape foliage into a mounded form.
Pictured left: Javelin Forte™ Deep Rose Spanish Lavender Zones 7 – 9
Learn More
- How to choose the best lavender for your garden
- Grow a grill garden
- Create a scented patio
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Mountain, French, Spanish.... Lavender - how to collect, cut and dry fragrant flowers
Of all the fragrances found in the garden, lavender is one of the most interesting and original varieties. However, it is much more than just a beautiful flower.
In fact, lavender has a calming effect on the skin. In addition, this plant calms the mind, is an edible, versatile and healing plant. Also, this plant is quite attractive for various pollinators.
Regardless of which variety of lavender is grown in the garden, there are some tips on how to harvest and dry this flower.
How to grow lavender
Growing lavender can be quite easy, especially if done in the right climate.
The plant feels best when grown in a warm, sunny and arid climate.
Lavender does not grow well in high humidity and damp conditions. One of the best ways to compensate for dampness and frequent rains is to grow the plant in a container.
Use well-drained soil mixed with sand. Also suitable for growing cacti.
Avoid over-watering. Too much moisture is the most common cause of lavender death. This can lead to various kinds of fungal diseases.
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When planting lavender outdoors, choose a sunny location with good drainage and sandy soil. Lavender does not need a lot of fertilizer, compost or rich soil. This plant grows best on poor rocky soil.
The easiest way to grow this plant is to plant seedlings that are already well established.
Young seedlings can initially grow slowly, which is why you should be patient.
After 2-3 years the plants will take root normally and will grow and bloom more intensively.
Lavender varieties
There are many different varieties of this plant. Most of them fall into one of the broader groups such as French, English or Spanish in particular.
Some are quite compact, while others grow to imposing sizes. All varieties of lavender have a wonderful aroma and are edible. The most delicious are the English varieties. They are best suited for culinary applications.
How to collect lavender flowers
If you managed to successfully grow this plant, then you must definitely collect it correctly.
It's worth remembering that the more you cut the lavender, the more flowers it will grow. It also promotes branching, as a result of which the plant becomes more dense and beautiful.
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To collect individual lavender flowers, you need to identify the flower that needs to be cut.
Then follow the stem down to the flower bud until you reach the junction where two side leaves or new branches have begun to form.
With small garden shears, cut the stem just above the side branches or leaves. Once the central stem and flower are removed, the plant will redirect its energy. Now the side shoots will grow quickly and produce fresh flowers.
After harvesting, tie bunches of lavender that can be hung or simply placed in a vase to dry.
Freshly picked flowers can be used for medicinal and culinary purposes.
When is the best time to harvest lavender?
The best time to harvest lavender is early in the morning at the start of flowering.
Harvesting lavender in early spring will give the plant plenty of time to grow more flowers that can be enjoyed in late summer or fall.
This is especially true if the growing season is short in the growing region. In frost-free climates, plants can bloom all year round, and small bouquets can be constantly collected throughout the year.
For maximum fragrance and essential oil content, lavender flowers are best picked early in the flowering cycle. It is best if these are young tender buds that are rather tight and are just beginning to bloom.
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As lavender flowers age, their aroma and content of essential oils somewhat decrease. In addition, the buds will crumble and fall off the stems, which is not very good for flower bouquets.
Harvesting should be done early in the morning when the dew has dried, but when the plants are still vigorous enough after the cool air. During the day, some fragrant essential oils will begin to dissipate in the hot sun.
How to prune lavender
Pruning a plant is similar to harvesting, only a little harder.
This procedure is done once or twice a year.
This procedure is carried out immediately after flowering. If you prune right before the plant blooms, it will significantly delay the process of flowering.
This procedure can be done twice a year. In the spring, you should try to cut from a quarter to a third of the plant.
For tougher pruning, fall is great after the last flowers have faded.
Hardy English lavender varieties die back naturally in winter and respond much better to heavy pruning than other varieties.
Cut back half of the new growth every autumn.
How to dry lavender
The easiest way to dry lavender is to hang it up and let it dry naturally. It is best to make small buds so they can get enough air.
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Drying is carried out in a warm and dry room with good air circulation.
To better preserve the color of the flowers, the place should be darkened.
Full drying time is from two weeks to a month. When the stem is completely dry, it will easily break in half.
Can also be dried in a food dehydrator. This method is great if the flowers are intended for the preparation of oil or balm. The dehydrator should be set to the lowest temperature.
Complete drying takes 24-48 hours depending on the variety of lavender, bud size and device used.
You can also dry lavender by simply spreading it on the surface of a sieve or basket. So you can dry the whole stems or just the buds.
How to store lavender
After the plant has dried, you can leave the flower buds intact on the long stem, or just cut the flowers and put them in a container. Store in a warm, dry and cool place.
How lavender can be used
This is a useful and versatile plant. It is used in aromatherapy to reduce stress, anxiety, insomnia and depression.
In addition, the scent of lavender repels pests. This plant has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties. Dry lavender is used in medicine and cosmetology.
Lavender is also used in cooking. Can be added to desserts, sweet and savory marinades.
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Growing lavender on the balcony: winter care, pruning
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Few plants boast impressive popularity, lavender has acquired in our country. A small shrub, native to the Mediterranean region, with charming, blue-violet flowers and a delicate aroma, conquered most plant lovers, it can often be found in gardens and city squares, also on balconies and terraces. In our climate, one species suitable for year-round cultivation is narrow-leaved lavender, called medicinal lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), which can cope with a cold, winter period (although it requires coverage).
The remaining species found, French lavender (L. stoechas) and Spanish lavender (L. dentata), should be considered as annual plants, the beauty can be enjoyed for one season.
Care
Lavender is not difficult to grow, can be planted in pots on a terrace or balcony . He loves a warm climate, has certain requirements, compliance with care guarantees abundant and long flowering. It is necessary to choose a sunny and warm place, it does not bloom well in the shade, shoots are strongly drawn out. The plant needs a large enough container with good drainage at the bottom and permeable, light, calcium and nutrient rich, fertile soil. Lavender does not have high moisture requirements, and tolerates light drying better than too wet soil.
Winter storage
During the season, any type of lavender can be grown on the terrace, if you want to keep the plant until next year, at home it is possible only in the case of narrow-leaved lavender.
Winter care for lavender in a balcony container can be difficult even when the pot is lined with a thick non-woven or straw mat. It is recommended to transfer the plant at the end of autumn to a bright, cool room with a temperature of 5-10 ° C (poor, systematic watering) or bury it for the winter in the garden with a pot, covering it with non-woven material or leaves.
Pruning
Shrubs should be lightly pruned before overwintering, cut faded inflorescences can be used for aromatic compositions (sachets) or tied in bunches and hung in a closet to repel moths. Pruning is also carried out in early spring (IV - V), pruning more radically.
Shrubs are cut to half or to a height of about 10 cm. Plants will grow more luxuriantly and bloom more profusely, retaining vitality and a compact habit for longer. If you do not prune, the shrub will be rather loose, elongated, and over time it will unsightly bare from below. During pruning, you can try to take and root the cuttings, they will give a new generation of plants in the future, the procedure is rather difficult, it does not always end successfully.
Lavender can be grown from seed sown in containers in early spring, but will have to wait until next year for the first bloom.
Diseases and pests
Lavender is not particularly susceptible to diseases and pests , the most susceptible to care errors. Too frequent watering, poor storage or improper pruning can lead to loss of beauty, may die (due to waterlogging of the coma).
Pots
Lavender grows well, if properly cared for, will be an excellent decoration for balconies and terraces. Looks great in Provence-style containers and utensils (whitewashed wooden boxes, galvanized, raw buckets or wicker, bright baskets), looks just as beautiful in a single, extended top, straight pot or in an old earthenware jug. Can be combined with other balcony plants (pelargonium, helichrysum) or ornamental herbs (sage, basil, thyme or rosemary) if a really large container is available, the special beauty is best shown when the lavender is potted individually or in a single species group.
