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How to cut flowers from the garden


Cut-Flower Care: How to Make Fresh Flowers from Your Garden Last Indoors

By Rose Edinger   |   March 1, 2006

It's late spring, early summer. Your garden is in peak bloom, filled with vibrantly colored flowers. And now you've picked up an article urging you to cut those beautiful blossoms. "No, never!" you say. But this is precisely the time to create a stunning bouquet from the fruits of your labor, so you can enjoy the sights and smells of the garden inside your home as well as outside it.

As soon as the plants in my small border garden begin flowering, I begin cutting. I know that it only takes one gusty wind or heavy summer rain to destroy my beloved blooms. Cutting guarantees that at least some of my flowers will be spared this cruel fate.

There is another reason I cut: It encourages more flowering on my plants throughout the summer months and even into early fall. Periodic cutting performs the same function as deadheading—promoting more blooms by delaying the onset of fruit.

Of course, the main reason I cut is for the tremendous satisfaction I get seeing my garden-grown flowers sitting pretty in a vase on the kitchen table. The number of flowers needed depends on the size of the vase used. In order to avoid cutting too many, I add foliage to the arrangement. I use a branch or two from a tree or shrub, or some groundcover with assorted grasses. These materials help me create bouquets of various sizes and shapes.

I make sure to pick and condition my flowers properly, so they'll have an extended vase life. There are many tricks in the cut-flower trade for creating long-lasting displays. Following are some of the best of them.

When to Cut

Early morning is the ideal time to cut fresh flowers. The flowers have had the benefit of cool night air and morning dew. Their stems are filled with water and carbohydrates and so are firm to the touch. As the day warms up, flowers gradually dehydrate. Midday is the least auspicious time to cut, as transpiration rates are at a peak and plants are rapidly losing moisture through their leaves. Flowers become limp; their necks become bent. If cut, they will not recuperate well and their vase life will probably be short.

When harvesting, have a bucket of water on hand to put the flowers in. Don't dillydally; place the cut flowers in the bucket immediately. I like to use a plastic pail rather than a metal one because metal can affect the pH balance of the water.

Different types of flowers must be harvested at appropriate stages in their development. Flowers with multiple buds on each stem should have at least one bud showing color and one bud starting to open before being cut. This is true for spike flowers (salvias, agastaches, delphiniums, Eremurus, gladioli, snapdragons, stocks, larkspurs, and the like) as well as cluster flowers (agapanthus, Alstroemeria, baby's breath, Clarkia, lilacs, phlox, Queen Anne's lace, verbenas, yarrow, and silenes, for example). If gathered too early—while they're still tightly budded—these flowers will not open in a vase of water.

By contrast, flowers that grow on individual stems (such as asters, calendulas, chrysanthemums, dahlias, Datura, gerbera daisies, marigolds, sunflowers, Tithonia, and zinnias) should be cut when fully open.

When selecting foliage, look for firm leaves and stems with strong coloration.

Cutting Tools and Techniques

Always use clean, sharp utensils when cutting flowers. Knives, clippers, or shears can be employed. Never use ordinary household scissors. The gauge on scissors is set for paper or fabric, not for flower stems, which are bulkier. Using scissors will crush their vascular systems and prevent proper water uptake.

Flower and foliage stems that have been left out of water, even for a short period of time, seal up and inhibit the absorption of water. Air bubbles sometimes enter the stem and prevent a steady flow of water. In order to prevent this from happening, some people cut their flowers under water before transferring from bucket to vase. However, I have found this to be awkward. Custom-cutting the flower stem in open air and immediately placing it in the vase of water is usually fine.

More: Making A Midcentury Wedding Bouquet

Cut all flowers and foliage about one inch from the bottom of a main stem. Make the slice at an angle of about 45 degrees. Cutting at an angle provides a larger exposed area for the uptake of water. It also enables the stem to stand on a point, allowing water to be in contact with the cut surface. Remove all the lower foliage that would be submerged in water. This will retard bacterial growth, which shortens the vase life of flowers and makes the water smell foul.

Water Temperature

Professional florists and commercial growers always use lukewarm water for their cut flowers. The water temperature should be 100°F to 110°F. (An exception is when you are using bulb flowers, such as hyacinths and tulips, which need cold water.) Warm water molecules move faster than cold water molecules and so can be absorbed by flowers with greater ease. The objective is to get water and nutrients as quickly as possible to the head of the flower.

Preservatives

Using a preservative definitely increases the longevity of cut flowers. To survive, flowers need three ingredients: carbohydrates, biocides, and acidifiers. Carbohydrates are necessary for cell metabolism; biocides combat bacteria and are necessary for maintaining plant health; acidifiers adjust the pH of water to facilitate and increase water uptake.

Homemade Flower Preservative

Home mixes can be as effective as commercial preservatives. This easy-to-make recipe is my favorite.


Under normal circumstances, flowers get what they need from the plant. When severed from the plant, however, flowers are deprived of these essential substances. But they are present in ready-made commercial preservatives, like Floral Life. Such solutions contain sugar for nutrition, bleach to keep the water clear of bacteria, and citric acid to gently acidify the water. When using commercial brands, be sure to follow recommended measurements for different container sizes.

One common suggestion is to place an aspirin in the water to keep flowers fresh. It is likely that aspirin's effectiveness is simply the result of the drug's carbohydrate content. Another well-known suggestion is to drop a penny into the water. Apparently, the copper in the penny works like an acidifier, decreasing the pH of the water. Unfortunately, solid copper pennies are no longer being minted.

Preparing the Stems

Garden flowers require some additional preparation after cutting. The type of preparation depends on the type of flower stem: hearty, hollow, soft, woody, or milky.

Hearty Stems

Flowers with hearty (or solid) stems, such as cockscomb, Clarkia, marigolds, statice, and transvaal daisies, need only the diagonal cut to absorb maximum water. They should be left to drink in lukewarm water with preservative for a minimum of one hour before arranging.

Hollow Stems

The stems of hollow-stemmed flowers, such as amaryllis, bells-of-Ireland, dahlias, delphiniums, and hollyhocks, need to be filled with water. Simply turn the flower upside down and pour water into the open cavity of the stalk. To keep the liquid in, you can plug the stem with a small piece of cotton and then place it in the vase. Alternatively, place your thumb over the opening at the bottom of the stem and then put it in the water. The water trapped inside will keep the stem strong and straight. I have noticed that when I fill the hollow stems in this way, the heads of my dahlias stand upright and the small buds on the tip my larkspur actually open!

Soft Stems

Bulb flowers such as hyacinths, iris, and tulips have soft stems and should be cut where the green on the stem starts—just above the white bulb. Place the flowers in cold water. Since most bulbs bloom when the air and ground are still at low temperatures, they do better in a vase of cold water.

Woody Stems

For woody plants such as lilac, dogwood, mock orange, pear, and heather, be sure to split the stems at the ends rather than smash them. This will keep vascular tissues intact and create more surface area to absorb water.

Milky Stems

Flowers such as euphorbia, lobelia, poinsettia, and snow-on-the-mountain secrete latex sap that oozes into the water and clogs the vascular system of other flowers in the container, preventing them from absorbing water. For this reason, the ends of the stems need to be seared before the flowers are placed in the arrangement. There are two ways to accomplish this: Either dip the cut end of the flower in boiling water for 30 seconds or apply a flame from a match or candle to the precut flower stem for about 30 seconds.

Do not use these flowers with a pin holder, because each time the flowers are cut they need to be seared again. Searing is not effective in halting the seepage of secretion from daffodils. Therefore daffodils should not be mixed with other flowers if you want a long-lasting arrangement.

Designing the Arrangement

Now that the flowers you have taken from your garden are conditioned, it's time to create an arrangement. Here are three design tips used by professionals:

  1. The height of the flowers should be in proportion to the size of the container—that is, the height of the flowers should not exceed one and a half times the height of the container.
  2. The arrangement should appear uniform all around. Visualize a circle divided into three equal sectors, and then select similar flowers for each of the sectors.
  3. Support the flowers to keep them in place. One simple approach, which avoids the use of props, is to use the flower stems themselves for support. By placing each flower into the container at an angle, you can form a grid or web that will hold the design together. The only flower that should be inserted straight up in the container is the center flower. This flower cannot stand without the support of the other flowers and should be placed in the container only when the grid has taken shape.

Care of Cut Flowers in an Arrangement

Here are some general rules that will help you make your cut-flower arrangements last:

Rose Edinger is an award-winning floral designer with over 20 years’ experience. She specializes in thematic design work and has decorated events in the New York region and beyond.

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Harvesting Flowers From Cutting Gardens

General Flower Garden Care

By: Tonya Barnett, (Author of FRESHCUTKY)

Image by fotyma

Growing your own cut flower patch can be an extremely rewarding endeavor. From sowing to harvest, many gardeners find themselves dreaming of vibrant and colorful vases filled with freshly cut flowers. Keep reading for tips on cut flower harvesting.

Harvesting Flowers from Cutting Gardens

While these types of specialty gardens are popular with market growers, hobbyists also find considerable joy in the creation of their own flower arrangements. Success in arranging your own cut flowers will require knowledge and consideration for the harvesting process, as well as the conditioning needs for various types of blooms.

When to pick cut flowers and how to harvest cut flowers can be one of the most difficult aspects of growing your own. While harvesting cut flowers may seem simple in theory, gardeners quickly find that the delicate blooms will often need special care in order to truly look their best. Plant type, growth habit, and even weather conditions at harvest time can all influence the overall presentation of cut flowers.

How to Harvest Cut Flowers

The first step in harvesting flowers from cutting gardens is the proper preparation of tools. Those harvesting cut flowers should thoroughly clean their garden shears, as well as the buckets that will be used to store the cut flowers. This will help ensure that bacteria is not introduced into the plant stems and, therefore, prolong the vase life of blooms.

Though certain varieties of flower will have special requirements, most will require the bucket to be filled with cool water in preparation for harvest.

Learning how to harvest cut flowers will also require familiarity with the optimal bloom stage. While some flowers should be picked early, others may perform best when allowed to open and mature in the garden. Knowing when to harvest will vary greatly from one flower type to the next. Harvesting flowers from cutting gardens prematurely or past their prime may cause a noticeable decrease in vase life or even cause the entire stem to wilt.

Cut flower harvesting is best done when temperatures are cool. For many gardeners, this means early in the morning. Mild, early morning temperatures help ensure that the flower stems are hydrated when snipped from the plant.

To cut the flower stem, simply make a cut on a 45-degree angle at the desired stem length. When harvesting cut flowers, place the blooms into the water bucket directly after cutting. At this time, remove all leaves from the stem that will sit below the water level of the bucket.

After cut flower harvesting has completed, many farmers suggest placing the stems in another bucket of clean warm water, with the addition of a floral preservative. This will aid the flowers as they continue to draw water and rehydrate. After several hours, flowers will then be ready to be used in vases, bouquets, and arrangements.

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How to prune perennials for the winter - all the subtleties of autumn pruning

In this article, we will tell you how to prune and cover the most popular flowers for the winter, what to consider when choosing a pruning method, and also share some tricks.

Autumn pruning and sheltering plants for the winter are standard country procedures that should not be neglected at the end of the season. Not all flowers need this kind of care, but some, such as roses and clematis, can die if left to fend for themselves. Also, pruning will protect perennials from possible diseases and pests, and will allow you to enjoy the lush flowering of green pets next year.

From September to November, pruning should be completed, and by mid-November, shelter for the winter. Usually at this time frosts already come, and the plants are preparing for a dormant period. Too early pruning is not recommended, because. this can disrupt the metabolism, and the plant will die.

Early shelter for the winter is fraught with damping of the plants, so do not rush this work, wait for stable cold weather.

To prune flowers, you will need a sharp pruner with disinfected blades, gardening gloves and a bucket. Sometimes a lopper or garden shears can come in handy. We will tell you more about the materials for shelter in each paragraph.

When to prune astilba for winter

Photo courtesy of countryhouse.pro

Faded astilba needs your care. After the first autumn frosts, in October-November, when the leaves and stems of the plant begin to turn black, it's time to prune. Cut off the entire above-ground part at soil level, remove and burn dried leaves. Now it's time to think about a warm shelter.

Mature plants tolerate frost well, but if the winter is without snow, astilba may suffer. Late spring frosts after thaws are especially dangerous. They can damage the upper part of the rhizome and disrupt the development of flower buds. Therefore, mulch the bushes with straw, peat, coniferous litter, rotted manure or leaf humus with a layer of about 5 cm. In the same way, cover young plants after transplantation, otherwise they will freeze. Instances older than 5 years tolerate winter worse; additionally cover them with spanbond, lutrasil or a layer of spruce spruce branches at least 10 cm thick. Or rejuvenate and plant bushes.

Above the astilba, you can also install a frame made of wood or metal, fill it inside with leaves, and cover the outside with spunbond or lutrasil.

When to prune hydrangeas for winter

Photo from decoize.us

Many gardeners have different attitudes to the question of whether it is necessary to prune hydrangeas for the winter. Someone is sure that pruning is vital for the plant, and without it the bush will bloom and wither worse. Some argue that pruning is not the key to good flowering. In general, it all depends on the age of the hydrangea and the climatic conditions of your region, but it is better to do a little sanitary pruning at the end of the season. In the middle lane, a favorable time for the procedure is the end of October or the beginning of November.

How to trim paniculate hydrangea for winter

Thin out the center of the bush and remove all dead and diseased shoots, dry inflorescences, poorly flowering shoots. Prune weak branches a little so that they do not freeze. Cut powerful skeletal shoots, leaving 1-3 pairs of buds. This will help form a beautiful crown.

How to prune tree hydrangea for winter

Remove dead and diseased shoots, old branches with weak shoots and bush thickening growth, as well as small shoots that do not form inflorescences. Thin out the bush in the middle. In order for the tree hydrangea to bloom magnificently next year, shorten all strong shoots to 2-4 pairs of developed buds. Carry out this procedure at the very end.

How to prune a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter

there is a risk of disrupting flowering. Remove faded and old shoots older than 5 years, as well as broken, diseased branches and shoots. Leave the rest of the branches.

How to cover hydrangeas for the winter, read our article.

When to prune irises for winter

Photo from artsad-manko.ru

The best time for pruning irises is the end of October and the beginning of November. Cut off dried leaves, leaving stumps up to 10 cm in height. Mulch the rhizome with peat, straw or leaf humus. Loosen the aisles and spray the plants with Baktofit, Gamair or another fungicide to prevent rotting.

Be sure to remove rotten leaves, they can become a haven for pests and pathogenic bacteria. Burn plant debris.

Siberian and Oriental irises do not need shelter for the winter. But the rest is better to insulate. This must be done before mid-November, so that the irises do not ripen during the rainy season. As a covering material, use straw, peat, humus. The mulch layer should be about 10 cm above the rhizome. Lay several layers of spruce branches or spunbond on top.

Bulbous irises can be dug up for the winter and stored in a cool, dry place until spring. Carry out the procedure only after the leaves have completely dried. Also, it will not be superfluous to treat the bulbs with insecticides.

Should I prune clematis for the winter?

Photo from mir-ogorod.ru

Yes, clematis should be cut for the winter. But it is important to consider the type of pruning to which the vine belongs. There are 3 types in total, depending on which shoots clematis blooms on. Pruning will avoid thickening, increase the growth of strong shoots and improve flowering.

Clematis 1st pruning group bloom on last year's shoots. Cut off their tops by 20 cm, approximately to the level of the support, and leave the rest of the vine (about 2 m) untouched. Exception: weak, diseased and thickened shoots, which should also be removed.

Clematis 2 pruning groups bloom twice a season. Buds are formed both on last year's shoots and on the shoots of the current year. Cut these clematis in half. Remove dry and diseased shoots as well. Every 4-5 years, the bush can be cut to the level of the soil.

Clematis 3 pruning groups bloom on current year's shoots. At the end of the season, all shoots can be cut. It is enough to leave a stem about 20 cm high from the soil level, with 2-3 pairs of buds.

How to prune clematis for the winter, you will understand from the diagram below.

Look for information about the type of pruning of clematis on the packaging of the seedling when buying.

Whether to prune lavender for the winter

If you grow lavender, winter pruning will be one of the most important care procedures for this plant. The fact is that lavender has a tendency to lignify and expose the base of the bush. Regular pruning is necessary to avoid this problem and keep the lavender decorative. But you should not get too carried away with pruning, so as not to damage the lignified part of the bush. She herself does not give new shoots, but every year she is overgrown with fresh stems. The task of pruning is to slow down the aging process of the bush and prevent rotting of the lignified part.

After the end of flowering, shorten the stems 2.5-3 cm above the lignified shoot, remove weak and diseased branches. Mulch the soil with leaf humus or bark and cover the bush with spruce branches.

Lavender can also overwinter in the winter garden. To do this, dig it up and transplant it into a container, and in the spring, when the soil warms up, return the plant to the flower bed.

When to prune daylilies for winter

Photo from lileynic.com.ua

Daylilies do not need to be dug up for the winter, they do not lose their decorative effect even after 10 years of flowering in one place, so many summer residents believe that these crops do not need special care. But in order for the plants to feel great in the flower bed, after flowering is over, be sure to carry out a series of works: remove flower stalks, dry and diseased shoots, and when the leaves wither, cut them off at the root. Clear plantings of weeds in which pests can overwinter. Make small grooves so that in the spring the water does not stagnate at the base of the bushes.

Plants need to be watered until the end of the growing season, so remember to keep the soil moist in daylily beds. If the plant does not accumulate moisture during this period, it may die in winter from exhaustion.

In late autumn, in November, mulch daylily plantings with straw, softwood litter, forest moss or sawdust. Peat and sand will also work. If severe frosts are coming, cover the plants over the mulch with spruce branches, lutrasil or spunbond. To prevent plants from rotting and rotting, do not use film or plastic for shelter.

When to prune lilies for winter

Photo from cvetochik.ru

Lilies pleased us with their flowering, and now it's time to prepare them for winter. You should start by removing dried flowers to stop the formation of seeds. When the lily blooms, do not rush to cut its stems to the level of the soil. At this moment, the bulb accumulates nutrients, and it really needs wilting leaves.

As soon as the leaves die off, start pruning. Cut the stems with leaves at a height of 15 cm from the soil level. Try not to damage the annual roots at soil level, they are necessary for the nutrition of the bulb.

Bulbs of American, tubular and oriental lilies must be dug up for the winter. The rest of the lilies, with a few exceptions, are resistant to frost and will be able to survive the winter.

The best covering material for lilies is snow. But if winters are mostly snowless, and late frosts occur in spring, it is better to play it safe and cover the plants with peat or leaf humus with a layer of at least 10 cm. Put boards or spruce branches on top. It is worth carrying out the procedure until the end of October, before severe frosts. In the spring, gradually remove the shelter, following the weather changes.

When to prune peonies for the winter

Photo from vseprodachu.ru

Florists do not argue about whether peonies need to be cut for the winter. Young and old plants of this crop need annual autumn pruning, which will prepare them for the upcoming frosts and allow them to gain strength after exhausting flowering. The procedure must be carried out strictly before frost, so that flower buds have time to form for next year. If you prune too early, the peony will not bloom next year. Late pruning is problematic because peonies soften after exposure to cold and will be difficult to cut.

Wait until the peony leaves begin to wilt naturally, then cut back all shoots to 4-5 cm from soil level. Make sure that the buds remain on the stems. Sprinkle slices with ash (1-1.5 cups per bush). Water the bush thoroughly before wintering.

Peonies survive winter frosts quite well. It is enough to insulate them with humus or rotted manure. The mulch layer should be at least 10 cm, in cold regions - 15 cm. Young plants planted this year, cover with an additional layer of spruce branches.

Do not compost crop residues after pruning, but burn them. They may contain larvae and pupae of pests, pathogenic bacteria.

When to prune roses for winter

Photo from odelita.ru

Do you think it is necessary to prune roses for the winter or is it enough to prune in the spring? Do not even hesitate, this procedure is vital for roses in autumn! Thanks to it, the immunity of plants will become stronger, winter hardiness will increase. By thinning the shoots will get more light, improve air circulation and reduce the risk of fungal diseases. In addition, pruned roses are much easier to cover for the winter. Both adult plants and young specimens planted this year need pruning.

Pruning roses before night frosts encourages new growth, which can weaken the plant in winter. Therefore, carry out the procedure only after the final onset of cold weather, in late October or early November.

How to prune roses for the winter

For the procedure, arm yourself with a sharp and clean pruner, garden file and scissors. So, you should remove:

After the procedure, about 4-5 healthy and strong shoots should remain.

Make cuts at a distance of about 5-6 mm above the kidney

In order not to infect, after the procedure, treat large cuts with RanNet paste, BlagoSad putty or other ready-made disinfectants. You can also use garden pitch or charcoal. Rake and burn fallen leaves and other plant debris to prevent pests from breeding in the garden.

How to prune climbing roses for winter

Almost all types of garden roses need pruning, but often beginner growers are not sure whether to prune climbing roses for winter. Indeed, in the fall, these plants need minimal sanitary pruning. Remove unripened shoots and leaves, old and diseased stems - and the rose will feel great. Then bend the whips to the ground, secure with iron staples and ropes. For shelter, you can use wooden boards, film, spruce branches, burlap. Climbing roses can also be covered directly on the support. And in the spring you can carry out formative pruning to create a luxurious bush.

When to prune phlox for winter

Photo from cveti-rasteniya.ru

Phloxes are cut in autumn for several reasons. This procedure helps protect plants from diseases and pests, allows you to give the flower bed a neat look. By spring, the plant will accumulate more nutrients and release strong new shoots.

Choose the time for pruning in the last days of September - early October, when the phloxes finally bloom. Before the onset of cold weather, pruning should be completed.

Phlox can be cut in two ways: flush with the ground or leaving 5-10 cm above the ground. The first option will protect plants from pests and pathogenic bacteria. The second - will delay the snow and thereby insulate the plant.

Do not break off the phlox shoots with your hands, just cut them off, otherwise you may damage the vegetative buds of renewal.

Cover the rhizome of the phlox with compost or manure. If there is little snow in winter, you can cover the bush with loose earth (1 bucket per bush) and cover with spruce branches.

Cover the soil around the bushes with wood ash to protect the plant from pests and feed the phlox at the same time.

Do I need to prune the hosta for the winter

Photo from rilynam. blogspot.com

Let's see if the hostas are pruned for the winter. Despite the unpretentiousness of this popular plant, the host still needs autumn care. Some summer residents are sure that it is better for her to winter with leaves in order to survive the frosts, and in the spring the bush can be cut. Others are inclined to believe that the hosta needs mandatory pruning, otherwise it is threatened by pests and fungal infections. In general, it is better to carry out the procedure, but if you do not have time to do this, then do not worry.

When to prune the hosta for the winter? After its leaves turn completely yellow and dry. Cut off the entire above-ground part with a sharp pruner and burn it so that pests do not spread throughout the site. The host does not need additional shelter, but you can sprinkle it with earth or dry leaves and cover it with spruce branches in case of severe frosts and lack of snow.

Include pruning perennials for the winter in your list of summer activities. It will help your plants survive the cold season and accumulate enough strength for the new season. Remember that all diseased plants must be cut off. Pruning is also necessary for plants that propagate by self-sowing (steaps, eryngiums, goldenrods, etc.), otherwise you will have to weed them all over the site later. But evergreen perennials (cinquefoil, stonecrop, etc.) cannot be cut for the winter. As for cereals (reed grass, miscanthus, etc.), you can leave them without pruning until spring.

Should perennials be pruned for winter? Pros and cons of autumn pruning. What flowers to cut? Photo - Botanichka

In an effort to perfect order in the garden, older summer residents usually carry out an annual general cleaning of the site. With the onset of late autumn, lush flower beds are thoroughly cleaned, after removing annuals and pruning perennials, turning into flat islands of bare earth. But the “advanced youth” will consider such cleaning almost an “act of vandalism”, finding a special charm and object of contemplation in the flower “garbage”. But the truth, as always, lies somewhere in the middle. Let's try to figure out which perennials need to be cut in the fall, and in which cases this procedure will be pointless or even harmful.

Do I need to prune perennials for the winter?

Contents:

Perennials that do not need winter pruning

It is strictly forbidden to prune

First of all, it is important to know which of the inhabitants of your garden will react sharply negatively to winter pruning. There are relatively few such perennials, and it is better, as they say, to know them in person right away in order to avoid the senseless stress of green pets. Such plants can safely be allowed to remain with leaves until spring.

It is strictly forbidden to prune winter-green perennials wintering with foliage for the winter.

Of the most common garden plants, this group includes: lungwort, bergenia, woolly chistets, cinquefoil, primrose, some types of garden geraniums, gravel, hellebore, liverwort, goryanka, santolina, geyhera, geyherella and some others. As well as most of the so-called "rugs": periwinkle, sedum (creeping species), awl-shaped phlox, arabis, armeria, saxifrage, shaving, young, tenacious, certain types of Veronica, etc.

If you cut these crops for the winter, then in spring it will take a lot of effort to restore the green mass, so you most likely will not see flowering. And some perennials after such pruning may not even survive the winter.

It is better not to prune

It is advisable not to prune perennials for the winter, which are considered conditionally winter-hardy in our climate (frost resistance zone 5-6). First of all, these include lavender, coreopsis whorled, perovskia, perennial lobelia and others. Such recommendations are mainly related to the fact that dried shoots contribute to better snow retention in winter, protecting the root system from the cold. For the same purpose, in autumn, these flowers are covered with tops of bushy annuals.

Also, for the winter it is impossible to cut the shoots of princes and clematis that bloom on the shoots of the previous year. Usually these are species varieties (clematis vine-leaved, Tangut, vititsella, Manchurian, alpine prince, etc.) As well as varieties belonging to the second pruning group, which are cut only to half before shelter. As a rule, these are terry or simple hybrids from the Lanuginosa, Patens and Florida groups.

Ornamental grasses - separate issue


All representatives of cereals can be divided into two large classes: evergreens and herbs with foliage dying off for the winter. However, in autumn, any cereals are best left untouched. After all, dry foliage prevents excess moisture from getting to the roots, and most importantly, it protects wintering buds from freezing.

This recommendation is especially true for thermophilic herbs such as pennisetums and miscanthus. For greater reliability, before wintering, these herbs are often recommended to be tied into a sheaf. But with the advent of spring, the dried clumps of grasses of the first group are cut off completely, while evergreens are combed with a rake so that dry leaves do not interfere with the appearance of young foliage.

Tip: In late autumn, plants with overwintering leaves can be cut off flower stalks, as well as yellowed and damaged leaves. But such hygiene procedures can be completely transferred to the spring.

Ornamental grasses can become a real decoration of the site in the off-season. © Oksana Karpenko

Perennials that need pruning for the winter

The second large group includes ornamental plants, which, on the contrary, need mandatory pruning for a safe winter sleep and successful flowering in the next season. Preparing for the winter of these green pets is better to add to the list of mandatory garden work in the fall.

First of all, you need to prune the plants that showed signs of bacterial or fungal diseases during the season. At the same time, the tops of such perennials should never be placed for composting. Affected shoots are recommended to be dried a little and burned, or removed from the site.

But even if the past season turned out to be favorable, and the plants practically did not get sick, some perennials susceptible to fungal diseases are still recommended to be cut, because pathogens could remain on their leaves and shoots. These plants, first of all, include phlox, delphinium, spikelet veronica, etc. By the way, it is also useful to treat the soil under them with fungicides in the fall.

If during the summer season an invasion of various pests (aphids, leaf beetles, etc.) was observed in the flower garden, or harmful insects attack your flower bed for more than a year, then it is better to remove all fallen leaves under the plants and be sure to rake the autumn leaves that fall into the flower garden , since such a “warm blanket” helps pests endure the winter well.

Perennials and ornamental shrubs that overwinter with shelter must be carefully cleared of falling leaves before protective structures are installed over them. First of all, this, of course, concerns roses, more often than others suffering from fungal diseases. But for large-leaved hydrangea, such a measure will also not be redundant.

Don't forget! Most large-leaved hydrangeas flower on last year's shoots, so when removing leaves it is important not to damage the top buds of the shoots.

Some popular flower bed dwellers produce very abundant self-seeding, so it is better to cut off their seeds before the seeds are fully ripe and scatter to all corners of the garden, giving unnecessary shoots in spring and adding work to the grower. Such prolific perennials include solidago, solidaster, New Belgian asters, lupins, rudbeckia, blueheads, mordovniks, saplings, etc.

When pruning is a moot point

The next group of plants gives flower growers the opportunity to make their own decisions - whether to hurry with pruning in the fall, or postpone the shears until spring.

Annuals

Many flower growers really want to prolong the summer, which, despite the autumn cold, seems to still be with us, while flowers bloom in the flower beds. Fortunately, with cutting annuals, rush is not necessary at all. Moreover, in some species, with the onset of cold weather, the color of the petals changes, for example, as in the zinnia of the Profusion series.

It is best to cut annuals only after they die naturally from frost. And do not forget that flower tops come in handy for sheltering heat-loving perennials. Particularly good as a winter blanket are marigolds, zinnias and calendula.

Seed heads of some flowers are best trimmed if they breed aggressively. © Oksana Karpenko

Neighbors of primroses

Leaves and stems of perennials, under which plantings of bulbous primroses are located, are also recommended to be removed in autumn. Indeed, in this case, in early spring, fragrant clumps of snowdrops will look clean and tidy, and their charm will not be overshadowed by the dull appearance of decaying foliage.

However, some lovers of the natural approach to decoration find the combination of primroses and last year's foliage quite organic. In addition, the overripe leaves serve as mulch for the bulbs and retain moisture in the soil in the event of a dry spring.

Hostas

The question of whether to cut the hostas in autumn is most often asked by beginner growers. But those who have been familiar with this popular perennial for more than one year have already noticed that during the winter the dense leaves of the host completely rot, and in the spring there is not a trace of them left.

In addition, after the first slight frost, the variegated leaf blade of the host changes color in a whimsical way, becoming an additional color accent in the autumn flower garden. But, of course, if you take a “clean and tidy” approach, then removing the yellowed leaves of these perennials will not do them any harm.

Tip: do not rush to cut perennials with beautiful autumn color (such as maple leaves), because their foliage will add color to a thinned flower garden and cheer you up.

Also at your discretion is the autumn pruning of astilba, volzhanka, aconites and bluebells.

When is the best time to prune plants for the winter?

Start pruning perennials from late October to mid-November. It is best to carry out this event in dry weather before or immediately after the first frost. But remember that it’s still not worth rushing to trim decorative perennials, because while the foliage has not yet faded, the aerial part of the plants still continues to nourish their root system.

Before the arrival of frost, usually in October, most garden perennials are pruned: peonies, gaillardia, phlox, brunera, astilba, volzhanka, feverfew, aquilegia, delphinium, irises, tall bluebells and others. At the same time, small smooth stumps 3-5 centimeters high should remain above the soil surface.

In November, with the onset of stable negative temperatures, young shoots of clematis (up to 20-25 centimeters), as well as daylilies (up to 10-12 centimeters), are pruned, since these plants can release young shoots in case of a prolonged warm autumn.

There are many flowers among perennials, there is no consensus about pruning them for the winter. © Oksana Karpenko

Advantages of autumn pruning of ornamental plants

In some perennials (peonies, irises) during the winter, the stems break up into elastic fibers or, on the contrary, become too coarse, as a result of which it is not so easy to cut them in spring.

If you are going to be short of time in the spring, it is better to save time for planting and other garden work and carry out a general cleaning in the flower beds in the autumn.

Many gardeners never come to their dacha in winter, so it makes no sense to leave plants uncut for the sake of their aesthetic appeal in the off-season.

Spring pruning of ornamental plants increases the likelihood of damage to young shoots, besides, tiny seedlings of awakened perennials are easy to miss and simply trample when putting things in order in the flower garden.

Cons of pruning perennials for winter

In natural-style flower gardens, last year's stiff stems can become a natural support for lodging-prone plants.

Some heat-loving garden flowers come out of the ground quite late. In these cases, last year's tops can serve as a kind of beacon so that you do not accidentally damage the plants when digging or confuse them with shoots of perennial weeds.

Seed heads will greatly help wintering birds to feed themselves during the winter, and thus you will attract them to your garden. For example, light brown monarda heads contain nutritious nut seeds that birds eat with pleasure.

But still, the main reason why more and more gardeners leave flower gardens "unharvested" in the winter is the special charm of dried inflorescences of ornamental perennials. Brushes, spikes, balls, umbrellas, panicles and buttons - if you look closely at the seed heads of plants, you can really find a wide variety of original inflorescences with a clear structure that will become a worthy decoration of the garden in the offseason.

Stonecrop, echinacea, rudbeckia, liatris, chistets, allium, goldenrod and many other perennials and ornamental grasses, when left in the winter, will give empty flower beds graphic, maintain their shape, retain structure and add volume.

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