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How to build a chainlink fence


How to Install a Chain Link Fence

By

Lee Wallender

Lee Wallender

Lee has over two decades of hands-on experience remodeling, fixing, and improving homes, and has been providing home improvement advice for over 13 years.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

Updated on 12/06/21

Reviewed by

Deane Biermeier

Reviewed by Deane Biermeier

Deane Biermeier is an expert contractor with nearly 30 years of experience in all types of home repair, maintenance, and remodeling. He is a certified lead carpenter and also holds a certification from the EPA. Deane is a member of The Spruce's Home Improvement Review Board.

Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board

Lars-Åke Svärdsten / Getty Images

Project Overview

Chain link fences are an economical way to fence in your property and keep everyone safe. Chain link is also one of few fence materials that creates a secure barrier without impeding your sightline. And chain link fencing is tough, with very little maintenance required over the years.

Chain link fences can be a bit tricky to install because nearly every component is unique to this type of fence. But after you've constructed one post-to-post stretch of chain link fence, all other sections are easier to build.

Working With Chain Link Fence

A full chain link fence consists of many parts, especially when you add gates or build corners. But there are a few major components common to all chain link fences:

Best Fence Companies

Codes and Regulations

Codes and permitting vary per location. In many areas, a fence permit is required only if the fence rises above a certain height, such as 4, 6, or 8 feet. The fence must also comply with municipal setback and location restrictions.

Houses in developments with private Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions (CC&Rs) and an HOA (homeowners association) may not be controlled by municipal codes and restrictions, so check with the HOA before installing the chain link fence. Many HOA communities control the types of fencing materials and will not allow chain link fencing.

Tip

You may be required to speak to your neighbor about the fence and obtain written permission to build it. Whether or not it's required, it's always good etiquette to first speak to your neighbor about the fence.

When to Install Chain Link Fence

Because chain link fence materials are waterproof and impervious to rot and freezing, they can be installed at any time of year. If your area requires the terminal and line posts to be sunk below the frost line, it will be difficult to dig fence post holes by hand if the ground is frozen. Also, special considerations are required when curing concrete during cold weather.

Safety Considerations

Always wear safety glasses and heavy gloves when working with chain link material. Be careful when tightening the chain link material from one post to the next post, as the come-along tool creates high tension. If the tool or materials break, you may become injured.

Chain Link Fence Pros and Cons

Pros

Cons

Equipment / Tools

Materials

  1. Mark Utilities

    Call 811 at least two weeks in advance to give your local utility marking service enough time to show up your house to mark vital underground lines with temporary paint.

  2. Lay Fence Line

    Drive wood stakes into the ground and run twine between the sticks to indicate the line of the fence. Drive a stake at each of the terminal post locations.

    Tip

    If you are laying out a corner, use the 3-4-5 method of squaring up corners. Measure 3 feet along one side, 4 feet along the other side, then measure the diagonal between the two to make a triangle. If the diagonal line is 5 feet, you have a square corner.

  3. Dig Terminal Post Holes

    Use the post hole digger and narrow shovel to dig post holes for the terminal post. Depending on your area, the depth of the holes should be 30 inches and the width 8 inches.

  4. Set Terminal Posts

    Fill the bottom of the terminal post with landscape gravel to about 6 inches. Attach the post level to the top of one of the terminal posts. Set the terminal post into the hole. Measure its height off of the ground. It should be 48 inches high. Fill the hole with dry concrete. Add water to the concrete until it reaches the top of the concrete. Set the other terminal post 10 feet away.

  5. Set Line Posts

    Run a taut line across the tops of the two terminal posts. Dig the hole for the line post. Add 6 inches of gravel, then place the line post into the hole. The line post should be 2 inches below the string. Add the post level to the line post and plumb it. Fill the hole with concrete, add water, then let the concrete cure.

  6. Install Hardware on Terminal Posts

    Starting at the bottom and working upward, add:

    • One brace band at the very bottom
    • Three tension bands, spaced every foot
    • Brace band at top with rail cup facing inward
    • One post cap

    Tighten all of the hardware with the ratchet wrench set. Repeat for the other terminal post.

  7. Add Top Rail

    Place the eye cap on the line post with the open circle facing toward the terminal post. Slide the top rail through the eye cap. Fit one end of the top rail into the open cup section of the rail cap of one of the terminal posts. For the other terminal post, cut off the top rail with a hacksaw so that it will fit in the rail cap. With the ratchet set, tighten the rail caps on both terminal posts.

    Tip

    Note that the top rail needs to be long enough to fit inside the second terminal post rail cap. So, add 1 1/2 inches or the appropriate length so that the rail will fit all of the way into the open cup section of the rail cup.

  8. Add Bottom Tension Wire

    Attach the tension wire to the brace band at the bottom of one of the terminal posts. Run the wire across to the other terminal post's brace band, add tension to it, then twist it into place. Cut off the excess wire.

  9. Lay out Chain Link Material

    Unroll the chain link fence material next to the post. Slide a tension bar through the last row of diamonds at one end of the chain link.

  10. Attach One End of Chain Link Material

    Lift up one end of the chain link material so that it is vertical and pressing against one of the terminal posts. With the ratchet wrench set, attach the end tension bar to the tension bands on the terminal post.

  11. Temporarily Attach Chain Link Material

    Lift the rest of the chain link material up so that it is vertical all the way across from post to post. Loosely fix wire ties across the top to hold the chain link material on the top rail. Do not tighten the ties. The goal is to have ties that are loose enough to allow the chain link material to slide when you tighten it in later steps.

  12. Prepare to Tighten Chain Link Material

    At the other end of the chain link, slide a tension bar vertically through the diamonds about 3 feet from the end. Add an extra tension band to the terminal post. This band will later be removed. Hook a stretcher bar to the tension bar. Hook up the come-along tool from the tension bar to the extra tension band on the terminal post.

  13. Tighten Chain Link Material

    Slowly pump the lever of the come-along tool to draw the end of the chain link material toward the terminal post. When it is tight enough, cut off the excess chain link material and remove the come-along tool, the temporary tension band, the temporary tension bar, and the stretcher bar.

  14. Add Last Tension Bar

    Weave a tension bar through the last set of diamonds on the chain link material. With the ratchet wrench set, tighten the tension bar onto the post's tension bands.

  15. Attach Wire Ties

    Twist wire ties from the chain link to the posts at every 12 inches. Along the top rail, twist wire ties about every 2 feet along the entire run. Attach at the lower tension wire about every 2 feet, as well.

When to Call Professionals

Because building a chain link fence requires you to learn how to work with unusual tools and materials, it's sometimes best to call a professional fence company to install your fence.

Article Sources

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

  1. Rights and obligations of owners. California Legislative Information.

7 Tips on How to Install a Chain Link Fence Yourself

It might sound intimidating. But with the right equipment, experience and help, you can install a chain link fence in a few days.

Installing a chain link fence on your property can provide security and safety for your kids, pets and equipment. But just like any DIY project, it will require careful planning and a fair amount of muscle to do correctly.

Chain Link Fence vs. Wooden or Vinyl Fences

The cost of a chain link fence, today, is similar to a wood or vinyl one. However, it’s considerably easier to install, so you’ll end up saving on labor whether you do it yourself or hire pros to handle it for you. Repairing a chain link fence is relatively easy too, compared to other materials.

There are a few things to consider related to the cost of a chain link fence. While they’re more durable than wood and require less maintenance, they’re not great for the resale value of your home. Chain link fences aren’t going to give you much in the way of privacy either, and they’re not particularly effective for home security.

But if you’re trying to fence off a large plot of land or need something to keep critters out of your garden, a chain link fence is a solid option.

We’ve had some experience repairing and installing chain link fences. But we also called upon Vince Christofora, owner of Woodstock Hardware, to walk us through the process.

1 / 7

Ziga Plahutar/Getty Images

Check Local Building Codes and Property Lines

Building codes vary among municipalities and towns, so check to see what’s required before you start your project.

Since you’ll be digging post holes, Christofora recommends calling 811 in your state so someone can come out and mark utility lines on your property. Make sure you’re absolutely sure about where your property lines start and end so you don’t accidentally dig in your neighbor’s yard.

2 / 7

Family Handyman

Design and Layout Your Fence

To identify potential conflicts with landscaping or building structures, mark your fence line and the locations of the posts. This lets you know how much fencing you’ll need to purchase. Christofora recommends using spray paint to better visualize your future fence. The paint disappears the next time you mow your grass.

Determine the location and size of the gates. “On larger projects/longer fences you may want more gates to avoid long walks,” Christofora says. Also, remember large equipment like riding mowers or lawn tractors may need a double gate. Vehicle-wide gates can provide access to septic pump trucks.

3 / 7

Family Handyman

Dig and Install Fence Posts

In addition to your fencing materials, you may need some digging tools beyond your trusty shovel. Post-hole diggers and picks are essentials, and if you have rocky or hard soil, it may require rock bars or small jackhammers. You’ll need concrete mixing items like a wheelbarrow, mortar pans and mixing hoes, and installation tools like a level, a come-along, wire cutting pliers and locking pliers.

Once you have your materials and tools, the next step is to install the posts that anchor your fence. Once you’ve dug the holes and set them in the ground, secure the posts with concrete. In our experience, dig three times wider than the diameter of the post itself, and place one-third of the post underground. Posts need to be spaced evenly for aesthetic purposes, 4-10 feet apart.

4 / 7

Supersmario/Getty Images

Install Rails, Post Caps and Tension Bands

Once you’ve set the posts, add the tension bands that hold the fence to the end, corner and gate posts. Place a cap on the gates, corner and end posts, driving them in place with a mallet. Then install the top rails through the caps.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully, ensuring they’re oriented correctly. Then you won’t waste valuable time fixing them later on.

5 / 7

Miljan Živković/getty images

Attach Fence Material and Tighten It

Lay down your fence rolls — these are heavier than you might think — and unroll them along the length of the fence. While weaving it through the end of the fencing, slide the vertical tension bar through the tension bands. This will secure the fence to the end post and let you stretch the fence into place.

Pro tip: Wear a sturdy pair of work gloves to protect your fingers.

Chain-link fencing needs to be stretched taught or it’ll droop or sag. Using a come-along, pull the fence tight to eliminate any extra slack. Attach it to the end post with a tension bar. Christofora says this step requires a decent amount of muscle, so you’ll need a helper or two.

6 / 7

James Andrews/Getty Images

Remove Excess Fencing

Any extra fence left over past the tension bar can be easily removed by unlooping the top and bottom weave and pulling the strand. Then tighten the bolts on the tension bands and release the come-along.

7 / 7

titaniumdoughnut/Getty Images

Tie Fencing to Rails

Separate aluminum wires called “tie wires” attach the fencing to the top rail of the fence. Slide the tie wire through a loop in the top of the fence link, around the rail and back around to the fence, tying it tightly in place. Place tie wires every 24 inches along the top rail.

Originally Published: March 15, 2023

Alex Rennie

Alex Rennie is a freelance writer who specializes in the home improvement, DIY, and appliance space. Having spent more than five years as a residential and commercial carpenter in NYC–specializing in custom furniture construction and installation–Alex uses his hands-on experience and expert insight to craft product reviews, buying guides, and how-to articles. He has previously written for CNN Underscored, Business Insider, and Popular Mechanics, in addition to Family Handyman. He currently lives in Los Angeles, CA, where he spends his free time hiking and relaxing on the beach with his wife and their two dogs, Louie and Iggy.

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence - how to install a chain-link fence yourself

More about chain-link fences. How to install a mesh fence yourself.

The simplest and most budgetary option for fencing a summer house, garden plot or private house is a do-it-yourself chain-link fence. To install such a fence, you do not need special tools. You can do all the work yourself, without involving assistants.

About chain-link fences

Chain-link is a mesh woven from pieces of wire in a spiral shape. Dimensions, shape and materials used comply with GOST 5336-80. Mesh fabric is made with rhombic and square cells. A rhombic cell has an acute angle of a rhombus equal to 60 degrees, while a square cell has all angles of 90 degrees. The size of the cell side of the mesh fabric is from 5.0 to 100.0 mm.

Steel wire with a diameter of 1.2 to 5.0 mm is used as a semi-finished product for the mesh. It can be uncoated or galvanized carbon steel. Another type of woven mesh is a chain-link with a protective and decorative polymer coating. The mesh is sold in rolls, the length of the material in a roll is 10 m.

Purpose of mesh depending on the type of coating

Mesh fence pros and cons

Mesh fence, like any other type of fence, has advantages and disadvantages.

Pros:

The advantages of this type of fencing include simple and quick installation. A mesh fence without welding can be delivered in 1-2 days. The time required to install the posts and install the grid depends on the total length of the fence, its height, and the type of foundation.

Cons:

Despite this, the mesh fence looks neat and performs its functions 100% - it protects the site from penetration from the outside, creates conditions favorable for the normal growth of plants.

How to close a chain-link fence from neighbors

Types of mesh fences

There are several types of chain-link fence designs. The most common are rolled, sectional, on a metal frame.

Roll-up

Roll-up fencing has a simple structure. It consists of supports with hooks and a mesh fabric stretched between them. Temporary fences are installed using the “pull-in” method. Without additional support, the metal mesh eventually loses its shape, sags under its own weight.

To prevent the mesh from sagging, a broach is made - a reinforcing bar is passed through the mesh cells horizontally, and its ends are welded to the supports on both sides of the span. Reinforcement, located along the upper edge of the grid, strengthens and reinforces the structure. To make the fence even more rigid and durable, the broach is done in two rows. To do this, use 2 reinforcement for each span. One is installed on the top of the grid, the second - 25-30 cm from the bottom edge of the canvas.

Sectional

This fence has a more reliable and durable design. The pillars form the basis of the fence. The space between them is filled with finished sections.

Mounting strips are welded onto the poles - one from above, the other from below. Frames for sections are welded from a professional pipe or a steel corner. The mesh is cut into segments according to the size of the frames, the edges of the wire are bent along the top and bottom. Along the perimeter of the segments, wire rod or metal rods are threaded through the cells and welded at the junction points in the corners of the web. On the reverse side of the frames around the perimeter, hooks are welded in increments of 20-30 cm. The sections are filled with the prepared mesh - they are stretched and the broaches are fixed on the hooks. Sections are welded to the posts on mounting strips. Frames and poles with mounting strips are coated with primer enamel and painted.

Sectional chain-link fences are placed on metal supports with concrete, on a strip foundation with brick pillars, as well as on pillars lined with decorative or natural stone.

Chain-link fence on poles

Fences of this type have a simpler design than sectional fences. The design consists of a supporting frame and mesh. It can be installed without welding.

The supporting frame is made from a profile pipe. The connection of the supports and the log is carried out using X-brackets, which are attached to the poles with screws. The rolled mesh is fixed to the supports and lags with fixing metal clamps.

Since welding is not used to mount this fence, you can take a galvanized or polymer-coated corrugated pipe and the same brackets to mount the frame. Such a fence will not need to be painted every year. A layer of zinc and powder paint protects the metal from corrosion. The coating does not change its properties during the entire service life.

Installing a chain-link fence

Materials for mounting the fence:

To install a fence without welding, we need to draw a schematic drawing of the structure. So it will be much easier to calculate how many pillars, logs, fasteners and grids will be needed.

The sequence of works for installing a chain-link fence:

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