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How long for garlic to mature


How Long Does it Take for Garlic to Grow & Mature? | Home Guides

By Michelle Z. Donahue Updated December 14, 2018

Onion family members are renowned in the garden for the lengthy growing seasons needed to produce a decent harvest. Garlic (Allium sativum) is no exception, requiring a stretch of relatively cold weather for bulb formation. Gardeners in areas with a Mediterranean climate fare best by planting regionally adapted types of garlic in fall to take advantage of the cooler winter months.

About Garlic

Originally native to Central Asia, garlic was long ago adapted to southern European climates and eventually made its way to the New World. The familiar paper-white garlic bulbs sold in grocery stores are mostly grown in California, but partly thanks to its skyrocketing popularity, many heirloom varieties of this annual with varying color, flavor and intensity are available for home growers. Though store-bought cloves may sprout in some gardens, experts recommend seeking out varieties that perform best under local climate conditions.

Types of Garlic

Though more than 600 types of garlic are available, all are separated into two main categories: hardneck and softneck. Hardneck garlic produces a false seed stalk, called a scape, which in turn produces bulblets that can be planted like mature cloves but take longer to mature. The finished bulbs of hardneck types contain from four to 12 cloves and are best used quickly, as they do not store well. Softneck garlic does not produce a scape and is often referred to as “artichoke” or braiding garlic. Mature bulbs are larger, with several layers of 10 to 40 cloves. So-called elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) is actually a type of leek grown as an annual, though it can produce mature bulbs weighing in excess of a pound.

Warm-climate gardeners may have the greatest success with softneck varieties, which are more heat tolerant and store longer than other types of garlic. "Burgundy," which has a white covering but purple, mild-flavored cloves, and "Mild French Silverskin" are both softneck types well adapted to warm climates. Good hardneck types for warm, dry weather include "German Porcelain," which can grow half the size of elephant garlic, and "Killarney Red," which has an attractive pink wrapping.

Cold Requirement

For a clove to form a bulb, most garlic types require at least 40 days with temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Absent this, the plant forms the familiar green stalk with flat leaves but no bulb. Garlic also fails to form bulbs if exposed to temperatures over 77 degrees Fahrenheit before planting, and so should be carefully refrigerated before planting.

Reaching Maturity

Once the cold-days requirement is met and days warm up and dry out, the clove begins to split into multiple new cloves to form a bulb with characteristics identical to the parent. The number of days to maturity for any given type of garlic varies, but October and November plantings are generally ready by May or June. Garlic signals it is ready for harvest when the tops are dry and have fallen over. Entire plants should be lifted from the ground with a garden fork, taking care not to damage the wrapping around the bulb.

Pests and Diseases

Garlic is subject to many of the same pests and diseases that affect other members of the onion family. Thrips cause foliar damage and can be controlled by spraying liquid insecticidal soap onto foliage. Onion maggots bore into the underground bulb and cause the top foliage to yellow and wilt. Control is mostly through rotation of crops and removing affected plants. Wireworms also damage bulbs by burrowing and occur mainly when garlic is planted in an area that was recently covered with grass. Armyworms congregate on individual plants and strip the foliage one by one. Populations can be controlled by handpicking or spraying with a caterpillar control liquid containing Bacillus thuringiensis.

Writer Bio

Michelle Z. Donahue has worked as a journalist in the Washington, D.C., region since 2001. After several years as a government and economic reporter, she now specializes in gardening and science topics. Donahue holds a bachelor's degree in English from Vanderbilt University.

How Long Does It Take For Garlic To Grow?

Table of Contents

Garlic is one of the most rewarding things you can grow on your own. Garlic bulbs are tasty, and they last a long time. Since the growing season is coming, and we’re thinking about timings, you may wonder: how long does it take for garlic to grow?

While most varieties take around 9 months to mature when propagated from cloves, there are short-season varieties that take less time. The way you plant garlic has bearing on when it’s ready for harvest too. Some garlic types allow you to easily propagate from last year’s harvest and grow garlic again, while other harvested garlic is better for using right away.

Planting garlic involves deciding whether you’re going to work with spring-planted garlic or fall-planted garlic. The USDA growing zone you’re in is an important consideration. And issues that arise in the process of growing garlic can change your timing as well. 

So let’s examine all of these factors to help you decide the type of garlic bulbs and the timing of planting so you can enjoy homegrown garlic for years to come. 

Growing from Seed v Growing from Clove

How long does it take for garlic to grow? Let’s discuss that. Source: Kjokkenutstyr

Aside from harvesting garlic scapes, you can grow garlic in different garlic growing stages. After harvesting garlic, growers cure each garlic bulb in good air circulation and use multiple ways of storing their garlic. During the growing process, gardeners can collect garlic seed from flowers to grow again the following year. They also have the option to plant garlic cloves, which each act as a seed on their own. 

Which type you choose to plant has bearing on your harvest time. While cloves take roughly 9 months from planting, garlic seeds take a year more than garlic bulbs (sometimes called bulbils). That’s because the seed has to germinate, grow the greenery necessary for photosynthesis, and then go through the process of bulb formation. When you plant cloves, the first half of the process is already complete. 

If you’re going to grow garlic plants in the upcoming growing season, consider the variety and its source! This will help you determine when to get that garlic planted. There are some cold-climate garlic varieties that like it best when temperatures are cooler.

When to Plant Garlic 

Garlic greens can be lightly harvested while you’re waiting for the bulbs to form. Source: renoir_girl

Another consideration in knowing when you’ll harvest garlic is the planting time. While there is spring-planted garlic and fall-planted garlic overall, there is also climate to consider. Softneck garlic is better when planted in warmer climates and hardneck garlic is best planted in cooler climates. The differences between the two exist in their botany as well. We will discuss those in a later section.   

Timings by Zone

Garlic is generally part of fall planting 4 to 6 weeks before the first frost in early summer to early fall. It is also most often fall-planted garlic due to its ability to produce larger bulbs over cold winters. This general list is for fall plantings. Spring planted garlic is possible, and it generally takes place 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost in early spring. Softneck varieties are suited for mild climates in zones 6 and higher, but there are varieties adapted to cold weather, such as Polish softneck. 

The timing of planting cloves of either could just depend on the season you’re planning for, and that is largely determined by your USDA growing zone. Here is a rough breakdown of when to plant garlic based on the type and USDA growing zone. 

If you’re growing garlic companion plants alongside your alliums, use their planting times to determine exactly when to start growing garlic plants. For instance, grow tomatoes next to garlic to prevent spider mites. 

Garlic Growth By Type

For garlic to grow well, the timing of your planting is important. Source: anastaz1a

Whether you’re interested in making garlic spray, or you want to make garlic spread or produce garlic just like the kind you buy in the store, the types of garlic you grow have bearing on how to plant them. Softneck versus hardneck determines whether you’re carrying out a fall or spring planting. Fall garlic plantings should be winter-hardy and are ready in the middle of summer. Spring plantings should be ready in the fall (either the current or following based on whether you planted cloves or bulbils). In a place with a long growing season and enough cold, you may find you can harvest garlic multiple times in a year. 

So let’s discuss the types of garlic you can grow and how that changes your harvest time.  

Hardneck Garlic

Hardneck garlic is called such because it has a stalk in the center of the garlic head that turns rigid at maturity. It has long flower stalks that produce bulbils after the flower stems bloom. It is often cold-hardy and peels easier because it has thick skin. Each garlic bulb has only a few cloves. In this case, the harder the neck, the larger the clove. If you plant and store garlic of the hardneck variety, you’ll find it doesn’t keep as long as store-bought garlic. And as we mentioned earlier, this garlic grows best in colder climates. A few of the best hardneck varieties are Rocambole, Purple Stripe, and Porcelain.

When it comes to timing hardneck harvests, you’ll know they’re ready when the bottom ⅓ of the leaves have turned yellow. Since this variety is typically planted in the fall, you’ll harvest in early summer to mid-summer. Before that, you have to remove green leaves called garlic scapes to ensure a decent harvest. Doing this promotes the growth of large cloves from the time the bulbs begin to grow at the root system. 

Softneck Garlic

Softneck garlic has a softer stalk made of green garlic leaves rather than a hard stalk. Softnecks do not flower – not usually, anyway – and therefore don’t produce bulbils. Mature bulbs have many more individual cloves than hardnecks, and they are much smaller. The garlic skin on softnecks is papery and difficult to peel. This garlic grows best in a warmer climate and is often planted in spring. Softneck cloves must be planted for propagation. This is the type you get when you purchase garlic in grocery stores. Two great softneck varieties are Silverskin and Artichoke garlic.

To time the types of garlic that fall into the softneck category, know that they can be ready as early as the beginning of spring. Wait until the top 5 to 6 leaves are still green, and the bottom leaves have turned brown. Then remove them with a garden fork. 

Elephant Garlic

Elephant garlic is technically not true garlic, but it is always included with the other types of garlic we’ve discussed so far. Elephant garlic varieties form bulbs with the largest cloves out there. When it comes to elephant varieties, each head of garlic contains no more than 6 cloves each whereas most garlic has 10 to 12 cloves. Each of the elephant garlic cloves is ready to eat after very little cooking. That’s why it’s great garlic to use for spreads. If you need garlic that’s ready quickly, go for elephant. You’ll have your garden fork out for harvesting within 90 days of planting. 

Garlic Greens

If you’re interested in growing garlic purely for the greens, know you can harvest those multiple times in a growing season. However, you must wait for late spring and early summer to do so. That’s because the bulbs need the greens to continue forming up to the harvest. Remember to keep leaves on the plant if you don’t want to harvest bulbs at the same time. 

Garlic Troubleshooting

Braided garlic can be stored for later use. Source: Photography-S

You may experience issues that limit the growth of your garlic bulbs and delay your harvest. This section will cover those factors and what you can do to limit them at the time of planting. 

Soil Moisture

Because garlic requires lots of water to grow, you’ll need to keep the garden soil moist throughout the growing process. Most often, failed harvests are due to dry soil. Especially if you’re growing in full sun, consistent monitoring of the water content in the soil is important. But you don’t want to go overboard with water. That can cause bulb rot. Here is where the growing medium comes in. Amendment mixtures of garden compost, well-rotted steer manure, and sand will promote moisture, but also assist with drainage. An addition of 2 tablespoons of 5-10-10 fish meal gives the bulbs the nutrition they need. And mulching with pine needles helps the soil retain moisture even in direct sunlight. Keep this in mind when preparing your site. 

Pests

Onion maggots don’t do much damage to a harvest at first, but after a few generations, they can cause up to 50% yield loss. They feed on the garlic seedlings at first, and then on expanding bulbs in the 2nd and 3rd generations. Insecticides applied to the growing area before planting will assist in removing the threat of onion maggots. Spinosads applied to seeds will also prevent them. Maggot flies are the same pests as onion maggots but in their adult form. Prevention methods for controlling them are cultural. Rotate your garlic crops to prevent them. This also prevents wearing out the soil in the process of growing delicious garlic bulbs. 

Dry bulb mites also feed on garlic and reduce yields, delaying your harvest. They are part of the same class as ticks and mites. They overwinter inside stored cloves and affected plants become stunted. Females lay eggs on garlic leaves that hatch releasing hundreds of larva who flock to bulbs to eat. Crop rotation will keep your garlic producing at a normal rate, and prevent these mites. Hot water treatments of garlic seeds keep them away as well. Neem sprayed on non-flowering plants will keep the mites from laying eggs on your leaves altogether. 

Consider these when gardening to ensure you have a timely and plentiful garlic harvest. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do you know when garlic is ready to harvest?

A: It depends on the type you’re growing. See above!

Q: What is the best month to plant garlic?

A: Most garlic does best when planted in late summer to early fall. However, you can plant some varieties in spring as well. 

Q: How long does garlic take to sprout?

A: Cloves sprout within 4 to 8 weeks. Bulbils take 8 to 9 months.

When to harvest garlic. How to store garlic - 7 ways. Storing garlic until spring.

Without garlic, food would be bland and boring. Marinades, salads, meat, poultry, lard and borscht - garlic is needed everywhere. Every summer resident plants at least a small bed of garlic. And in the midst of summer, the question arises: when to harvest the garlic. Since the ripening of garlic occurs underground, you need to know the external signs that you can focus on when harvesting garlic.

Winter and spring garlic: differences

There are two types of garlic: winter and spring. They differ in planting dates, which is clear from the name: winter garlic is planted before winter, about a month before the soil freezes, spring garlic is planted in the spring, as soon as the soil thaws and warms up slightly.

Winter garlic. Cleaning

By the time we just plant spring garlic, winter garlic has already risen. Accordingly, the timing of harvesting winter and spring garlic differs by 2-3 weeks.

They also have different storage times. Juicy cloves of winter garlic, with all diligence, can only be preserved until the end of winter, already in February they begin to sprout and wither. Spring garlic has a denser pulp, so it is stored for a year and even longer. And although his teeth are rather small, and it is not so convenient to clean them, they are stored until the next harvest.

To provide your family with garlic for the whole year, it is worth growing both types of garlic: winter and spring.

When planting garlic in the fall, it is important not to confuse them, since spring garlic does not tolerate frost well, most of it will freeze out during the winter.

Winter garlic

The type of garlic is easy to determine by the structure of the head. In winter garlic, the cloves are arranged in one row around the central stem, this is the remnant of a dried flower arrow. Winter garlic cloves are large, but there are few of them in the head: 6-8 pieces.

Spring garlic

The structure of the head of spring garlic is completely different. Since spring garlic does not shoot, there is no central stem as such. Teeth of different sizes are arranged in several layers, overlapping each other, randomly. The outer teeth are medium in size, while those inside are small or very tiny.

Garlic vegetation period and harvesting period

Early ripe varieties of winter and spring garlic ripen in 85-95 days. Mid-season are ready for harvesting in 100-110 days. Late-ripening varieties are harvested after 115-125 days. It is generally accepted that garlic is harvested, on average, after 100 days from germination.

However, the growing season is only a guideline that allows you to guess when the garlic will ripen. Garlic harvesting times may vary from year to year. Many factors affect the actual timing of garlic harvesting:

When to harvest garlic depends on the climate and growing region. The timing of garlic harvesting in different parts of the country will vary by 2-3 weeks.

Terms of harvesting winter garlic

In the southern regions, winter garlic is harvested in early July. In central Russia and the Moscow region, it ripens in the second - third decade of July. In the North-West, in the Urals, in Siberia, winter garlic is dug in late July - early August.

Harvesting dates for spring garlic

The time for harvesting spring garlic comes 2-3 weeks after digging up winter garlic. In the southern regions, harvesting begins in early August. In the middle lane, spring garlic is dug in mid - late August, in the northern regions - in early - mid September.

How to tell if garlic is ripe

The ripening of garlic can be judged by the fact that its aerial part turns yellow and dies. There is an outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the bulb. But how do you know when it's time to harvest the garlic? Should the leaves turn yellow or should I wait until they are completely dry?

Leaves

Understanding the life cycle of a plant will help determine when the head is ripe. Garlic cloves are born inside a false stem. The garlic leaves that we see on the stem come from the very bottom. Their lower parts are underground and are the covering scales of the head of garlic.

When we see a dried leaf above the ground, this means that the outer wrapper of the head has dried up underground. The more leaves dried up, the more covering scales collapsed. If during the ripening of garlic 1-2 dry layers of the integumentary scales are separated, this is completely normal.

Since garlic has a finite number of leaves, it is important to correctly determine the timing of harvesting. If you overexpose the garlic in the garden, then the wrappers will continue to die off layer by layer until there is not one left. After that, the head will fall apart into separate teeth, and each of them will take root again to begin a new development cycle.

The optimal moment when it is time to remove the garlic is the complete drying of the three lower leaves.

Since the very first leaf will begin to dry back in June, it may completely disappear by the end of July, so to determine the time of garlic harvesting, you need to take a closer look at the above-ground part.

Roots

In parallel with the outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the bulb, the withering away of the roots of garlic begins. In nature, this is necessary so that the bottom with old roots separates and does not interfere with the division of the head into teeth and their further rooting.

Trial digging several plants will help determine the condition of the roots. If the garlic is still tightly held by its roots to the ground, and the roots themselves are juicy, white, this means that the plant continues to vegetate. While the roots are alive, the leaves are nourished and the head grows. If part of the roots has already thinned out, dried up, acquired a gray tint - the head has matured, the process of preparing for a new cycle has begun.

Stem

By softening the lower part of the stem, you can understand that it's time to remove the garlic. When the roots of garlic begin to die off, less moisture enters the aerial part, it loses turgor, fades. The neck of the stem becomes soft, it can no longer hold the leaves upright, and the tops of the garlic fall down.

Experienced gardeners can determine the maturity of garlic by the softness of the neck. To learn this method, you need to dig up several plants, examine their roots and compare the feeling of softness or springiness of the stem at the bottom. The death of the root system and the softness of the neck of the stem are interconnected.

This method is more suitable for determining the maturity of spring garlic, because. it does not form a flower arrow, the false stem is composed only of leaves. If the flower arrows of winter garlic are broken too late, then a dense peduncle will remain inside the stem, which will not allow the tops to lie down.

Bulbs

In early - mid-June, a peduncle appears from the axil of the upper leaf. The flower arrow of garlic is initially twisted into a ring, but as it grows, it straightens. The bud increases in size, and at some point its upper shell bursts, revealing bulbs and small flowers.

The moment when the wrapper of air bulbs breaks, indicates that the formation of the head of garlic under the ground is completed. Some summer residents intentionally leave a few plants with flower arrows to serve as a pointer when it's time to harvest the garlic.

However, such a marker is not accurate. For different varieties of garlic, flower arrows come out at different times, so when growing several varieties, you will have to leave 2-3 peduncles for each variety. If the planting material was a mixture of varieties, then this method will only mislead.

It is impossible to get large garlic and air bulbs at the same time.

As soon as the garlic throws out a flower arrow, its attention switches to the formation of seeds, that is, bulbs. At the same time, cloves are formed underground, however, the ripening of seeds for the plant is a priority, so the size of the heads is small.

To get an excellent harvest of large garlic, flower shoots must be broken out as soon as possible, as soon as they appear from the axil of the top leaf.

How to harvest garlic

Garlic does not ripen at the same time, so it is best to selectively harvest as the heads ripen. A narrow shovel or weed rooter can be used to harvest individual heads.

On light sandy soils and loose fertile soils, garlic can be pulled out of the ground without any tools. If the moment for harvesting is chosen correctly, then the roots of the garlic have already weakened and are easily removed, while the stalk still holds firmly enough and does not come off the head.

On clay soils, a shovel or digging fork is used to harvest garlic. the density of the soil will not allow you to carefully remove the heads of garlic. When trying to pull it out, we will either tear off the stem, and we will have to dig the ground in search of the head, or the head will come off the bottom, which will violate its integrity, such garlic will not be stored for a long time.

It is better to harvest garlic in dry weather, this makes it easier to further dry the heads. But if the time for harvesting garlic coincided with prolonged rains, it is better not to wait for them to end. In moist soil, the outer flakes of the garlic rot faster, and delay can cause the heads to fall apart when harvested. Such garlic is suitable only for planting and cooking, but not for long-term storage.

When harvesting garlic, you can leave it for several hours in the garden to dry. Since you have to dig garlic in the height of summer, it is better to do it in the morning or in the evening. In the bright sun, the juicy pulp of the cloves overheats and quickly deteriorates.

After digging up the garlic, it is taken for ripening to a place protected from the sun and precipitation: under a canopy, on a terrace, etc. Garlic is laid out in one layer on the floor or collected in small bunches and hung up. During the ripening period, the final outflow of nutrients to the head takes place, the leaves and roots dry completely.

How to store garlic

Preparing garlic for storage

After the leaves and roots of the garlic are completely dry, you need to prepare the garlic for storage. The stem is cut with secateurs, leaving a small stump 2-3 cm long. If the garlic is planned to be stored in bunches, the stem is not cut so short. The roots are cut to the very bottom, trying not to damage it. The upper integumentary scales are exfoliated to keep the heads of garlic clean.

Garlic is sorted before storage. They select the best garlic for planting, discard diseased specimens, as well as damaged heads - they are processed or used for food in the first place.

Storage conditions

Spring garlic is not so difficult to preserve, it is perfectly stored at room temperature.

The optimal conditions for storing winter garlic are a temperature of + 14-16 ° C and an air humidity of 80-85%.

At room temperature, garlic wilts faster and loses its juiciness. Storing garlic in the refrigerator or cellar leads to dampness of the heads and their rapid deterioration.

A suitable temperature regime is created in a cool pantry, on an insulated loggia or terrace. If there is no cool room, garlic is stored in boxes on the floor, away from heating appliances.

How to store garlic

In boxes

In a cool room, garlic is best stored in containers that "breathe": wicker baskets; wooden boxes for fruits; plastic boxes with perforation; small nets hung on hooks.

In banks

If garlic is stored at room temperature, it actively “breathes” and withers quickly, so glass jars are used for storage. To reduce moisture, a layer of salt or ash is poured onto the bottom of the jars. You can also layer the heads of garlic with salt.

Banks are not covered with lids, because. without access to air, garlic quickly rots. Instead of lids, the neck of the jars is tied with cloth or paper. Jars of garlic are stored on the floor or in the lower compartment of kitchen cabinets, where it is cooler.

Braids

The traditional way of storing garlic in scythes gives the kitchen a special rural charm. But as garlic is used, the decorative effect of the braid decreases. In addition, if you hang the scythes from the ceiling, the garlic is exposed to higher temperature and humidity, which is bad for its storage.

Oiled

Peeled garlic keeps well in vegetable oil. At the same time, we get two useful products: garlic cloves, which have retained their juiciness and taste, and fragrant oil, which can be used for dressing salads.

Freezer

A small amount of garlic can be processed into a semi-finished product. To do this, the garlic is peeled and chopped, after which they are laid out in small portions on a piece of paper or in ice molds and frozen. Once frozen, garlic cloves can be bagged and stored in the freezer.

This method will require more time at the time of preparation, but it saves time in the cooking process. Frozen garlic retains its flavor and aroma.

In paraffin

A time-consuming, but effective way for long-term storage of garlic. Paraffin is melted in a water bath. Whole heads of garlic are immersed in hot paraffin and then allowed to cool. Paraffin forms a dense shell that prevents the garlic from losing moisture.

In the ground

It is extremely difficult to keep winter garlic until spring at home. However, when planted in autumn, it survives well until spring. This can be used for long term storage.

Garlic, intended for spring consumption, is put in a plastic bag and buried in the ground to the depth of a spade bayonet or a little deeper. It is necessary to choose a place where melt water does not stagnate so that the garlic does not rot during storage. As soon as the ground thaws, it is dug up. This garlic keeps perfectly.

When to harvest garlic - terms and signs of ripening, drying and storage

It is hard to imagine any cuisine without garlic. In mid-latitudes, it is most often planted before winter - winter garlic. With this method of planting, it grows with large evenly spaced teeth. In turn, summer garlic surpasses winter garlic in terms of storage time. Summer garlic (spring) is planted in early spring and harvested starting in the second half of August. But it is not enough to plant and grow a good harvest of garlic on time, it is important to keep it longer, and for this you need to know the timing, signs of ripening, the rules for harvesting and storing this popular vegetable crop.

Why is it important to harvest crops on time and correctly?

Harvesting winter garlic

The classic period for full ripening of winter garlic is approximately 100 days after the first shoots appear. This period corresponds to the third decade of July - the beginning of August, depending on climatic conditions. It should be noted that some gardeners harvest garlic according to the lunar calendar.

Signs of ripening of winter garlic

Harvesting summer garlic

Summer garlic ripens from the second half of August to September. During this period, it is necessary to carefully monitor the crop, looking for signs of ripening.

Signs of ripening of summer garlic

How to harvest and store garlic

Harvest garlic in dry weather. Having cut off the arrows, if it is winter garlic, the bulbs are slightly undermined, then carefully removed from the ground and carefully shake off the remnants of the soil. The removed garlic is laid in rows to dry. If the weather is dry, then the decomposed crop is left outside for several days, removing it at night. In wet weather, hide under a canopy.

In case of prolonged drought, it is better to moisten the soil before harvesting. When shaking off dry clods of earth, it is possible to break off the roots along with the bottom.

It is important not to throw the garlic, but to fold and move it carefully, avoiding possible dents, in order to reduce the risk of various rots.

Then the garlic must be laid out in one layer in a well-ventilated room for final drying for 2 to 3 weeks. The next step is to carefully cut the stems and roots.

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