How fast does crepe myrtle grow
How Fast Do Crape Myrtles Grow? How Tall Do They Get?
I love my Crape Myrtles. They’re beautiful and they grow fairly quickly! Of course, the exact growth rate and the time it takes for these pretty plants to mature varies based on the variety. Still, with the right conditions, you’ll find that a Crape Myrtle can add an accent of color or become a focal point in your yard in what seems like no time.
Crape Myrtles are fast-growing, shooting up as much as 24 inches a year until maturity. Depending on conditions, the largest cultivars may be 30+ feet tall, but how tall yours will get depends on the variety. Most will be in the 15-25 foot range, while miniature varieties may be only 2-3 feet tall.
In this article, I’ll tell you how big you should expect your Crape Myrtle to get and help you decide which type might be the best fit for your yard or garden. I’ll also answer all your questions about their growth rate, life span, and how long it takes these beauties to mature. Finally, I’ll give you some tips to help your Crape Myrtle grow bigger, faster.
How Big Do Crape Myrtles Get?
The mature size for a Crape Myrtle depends on what cultivar it is. There are several categories based on the plant’s mature height, ranging from just a few feet tall to a towering 25+ feet tall. It’s important to know how big a Crape Myrtle will get before you plant it in your yard or garden because there’s a big difference between a two-foot-tall shrub and a massive 30-foot tree.
However, the most common Crape Myrtles are typically 15-25 feet high and have a spread of 6-15 feet across once they reach maturity.
Crape Myrtle Height Table
| Variety | Mature Height (Approx.) | Example Cultivars |
| Very Dwarf | 1 – 3 feet | Delta Blush, Rosy Carpet, Weeping Alamo Fire |
| Dwarf | 3 – 6 feet | Chickasaw, Dwarf Pink Ruffles, Petite Embers, Victor |
| Semi-Dwarf | 5 – 12 feet | Burgundy Cotton, Cheyenne, Firebird, Hopi, Pink Lace, Tonto |
| Small Tree | 10 – 20 feet | Carolina Beauty, Comanche, Glendora White, New Snow, Seminole, Twilight, Yuma |
| Tree | 20+ feet | Arapaho, Biloxi, Carlina Beauty, Dynamite, Miami, Red Rocket, Sarah’s Favorite |
In addition to these common cultivars, there are some hybrid varieties that are known to grow up to 30 feet tall.
These include hybrid cultivars such as Muskogee, Natchez, and Fantasy (which can reach as tall as 40 feet in the right conditions).
The larger varieties also have a widespread of 15 to 25 feet in addition to their massive height. As such, it’s important to consider the mature size when selecting your plant and planning its location. You don’t want to try and relocate a mature plant because it’s outgrown its home.
When planting Crape Myrtles, it’s a good idea to leave at least fifteen feet between each one so that it has enough room to grow and flourish without competing for sunlight and soil nutrients. Of course, if you’re looking for a clustered look, you can plant them closer together, especially if you go with very small varieties.
How Fast Do Crape Myrtles Grow?
On average, Crape Myrtles grow around 24 inches per year. Of course, that number may fluctuate based on the variety. A dwarf Crape that only matures to a few feet tall may not reach maturity within a single growing season, but you might expect a large tree to sprout up a couple of feet in one year.
In fact, the 25-30 foot trees might grow three to five feet in a single year, while a small dwarf shrub might only grow four to six inches in a season.
The environmental conditions can also impact Crape Myrtle’s growth rate. These beauties do best in well-drained (but moist) soil and full sunlight. If they don’t get enough water or sunshine, they won’t grow as much as they might otherwise be able to.
When is a Crape Myrtle Considered ‘Mature’?
A Crape Myrtle is considered “mature” when it reaches its full height. The amount of time that it takes depends on the cultivar. On average, it takes five to ten years for a Crape Myrtle to reach maturity.
A dwarf Crape Myrtle will reach its mature height faster than a massive 30-foot tree, so it helps to check your plant’s information tag to find out the expected maximum height and spread before you plant it.
How Long Will a Crape Myrtle Live?
A Crape Myrtle will live for several decades or longer in the right conditions.
You can expect Crape Myrtles to live fifty years or more with fertile soil and full sun. In fact, there are many of these trees that are well over 100 years old scattered around the southeastern United States.
That’s another reason why these trees are so popular – they’re easy to grow and adaptable to a variety of conditions. While your Crape Myrtle may not flourish and bloom as well as it might otherwise be able to, it should continue to survive and grow even in lower quality soil or shaded areas.
How to Encourage Faster Growth
Crape Myrtles grow quickly on their own, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t help them out a little. To encourage yours to grow faster, you just need to make sure it’s getting plenty of what mother nature has to offer.
Crape Myrtles need full sunlight. That means six to eight hours of full-on blasting sunshine every day. Don’t assume that you’re planting your Crape in an area that gets plenty of sunlight without checking it out and timing it yourself.
If the area is shaded by your house or other nearby trees or structures for a good part of the afternoon, it’s probably not the best spot for your Crape Myrtle.
Ensure that the soil is moist but not overly saturated. Your Crape Myrtle won’t thrive if it has soggy roots. You may need to increase the water to ensure that your plant stays hydrated in the summertime. Give your Crape Myrtle a good, deep soaking about once per week (maybe more if you live somewhere very hot that doesn’t get much rain).
Finally, you can apply some slow-release fertilizer if needed, but don’t go overboard. You don’t want to stunt your blooms by stimulating too much leaf and foliage production. It’s always a good idea to test your soil before you start applying a bunch of fertilizer.
Putting It All Together
Crape Myrtles are delightful additions to any lawn or garden if you do some research and get the right size for your space. They come in a variety of colors, and they bloom for a large chunk of the year, meaning you can enjoy these beauties for far longer than some other flowering shrubs and trees.
Before you purchase a Crape Myrtle and plant it in your yard, it’s important to know what its mature size will be. Otherwise, you may not know if you’re going to end up with a two-foot shrub or a thirty-foot tree. You don’t want to have a larger tree than you planned for and have to cut it back. Crape Myrtles do much better when you let them grow naturally instead of heavy pruning, so always consider the plant’s mature size before purchasing and planting.
Your Crape Myrtle will take anywhere from five to ten years to mature, but the actual growth rate depends on the cultivar that you plant. Most standard Crapes grow one to two feet per year. Many people choose a Crape Myrtle because of its fast-growing characteristics. You can encourage maximum growth by ensuring that your plant has a good location where it will get full sunlight for at least six hours per day. Eight hours of sunlight is even better.
No matter the final size, your Crape Myrtle will delight you with soft, paper-like blooms year after year.
As long as they get enough sunlight and water, these low-maintenance plants will continue to grow and perform well with minimal effort on your part.
Crape Myrtle Grow Guide | How to Grow Crape Myrtles – Perfect Plants Nursery
Best Selling Crape Myrtles
Black Diamond® Pure White™ Crape Myrtle Tree
$ 64.95
Black Diamond® Best Red™ Crape Myrtle Tree
$59.95
Arapaho Crape Myrtle Tree
$ 49.95
Red Rocket® Crape Myrtle Tree
$ 54.95Crape Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica), often referred to as the “lilacs of the South”, are among the favorites of the South due to their early spring showy flowers, colorful autumn black foliage, and, in many cases, their attractive bark. Let us not forget the other wonderful features they possess, such as crape myrtles being drought tolerant, mildew resistant, fast growing and deer not usually be interested in them.
Crape myrtles can be used as a large deciduous hedge or screen, if planted together, or as a distinctive focal point framing a gate warmly welcoming visitors.
Does great framing a driveway or a fence! While growing crape myrtles is not an issue in areas they are hardy too, for your crape myrtle to truly flourish we’ve created this guide to steer you in the best route. They are slightly cold tolerant for some southern states.
Use this Crape Myrtle Grow Guide as a handbook for planting, growing, and caring for your Crape Myrtle trees.
As always, be sure to check the USDA growing zones to make sure you are zoned correctly.
Crape Myrtle Variety Selection Selecting the right crape myrtle plant for your landscaping needs means you have to take more than just the color into consideration. When choosing your crape myrtle, make sure to pay close attention to the plant’s mature height and width and if that fits the look you hope to achieve. This step will save you backaches and heartaches in the future. One question we are always asked is: How fast do crape myrtles grow? Check out this crape myrtle chart below for each cultivars specifics.
Take note that the black diamond crape myrtle growth rate is about the same even though these dwarf varieties are mostly bush-like shrubs and trees. In general, crape myrtles grow at a medium to fast growth rate at about 1-2 feet per year. Hence where they get their nickname – fast growing trees!
Cultivar | Mature Height | Mature Width | Flower Color | Bark Color | Fall Leaf | Days of Flowering | Growth Habit | USDA Zone | Special Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Arapaho | 20 feet | 10′ | Cinnamon Brown | Orange | 120+ | Upright | Showy flowers Pest & disease resistant Attractive bark Fast growth rate | ||
| Miami | 8-12′ | 10-12′ | Chestnut Brown | Orange to Dark Russet | 100 | Upright | Grows like Natchez Attractive bark Attracts butterflies & hummingbirds | ||
| Muskogee | 25-30 feet | 15-25′ | Light Gray | Crimson red hot Orange | 100 | Broad-spreading | Disease resistant Blooms all summer Drought tolerant Fast growing | ||
| Natchez | 25-30 feet | 15-25′ | Cinnamon Brown | Crimson Red-Orange | 100 | Broad-spreading | Attractive white blooms Exfoliating, cinnamon colored bark Fall color Fast growing | ||
| Sioux | 15-20′ | 10-15′ | Coral Pink | Maroon | 90 | Upright; narrow | Showy pink flowers Fast growing Drought tolerant Fall color | ||
| Tonto | 8-15′ | 6-10′ | Taupe | Bright Maroon | 75 | Compact globose | Showy flowers Drought tolerant Disease resistant Semi-dwarf size | ||
| Tuscarora | 18-25′ | 15-18′ | Light Brown | Red-Orange | 70 | Vase; broad crown | Showy flowers Fast growing Drought tolerant Fall color | ||
| Red Rocket® | 20 to 30 feet | 10-15′ | Gray/Cinnamon | Bronze Red | 120 | Bush-like | Showy red flowers Repeat bloomer Low maintenance Fast growing | ||
| Black Diamond® Pure White™ Crape Myrtle | 10-12′ | 8′ | Light Gray | Black foliage | 90 | Bush-like | Uniquely colored foliage Bright white blooms Drought tolerant Great size for smaller gardens | ||
| Black Diamond® Best Red™ Crape Myrtle | 10-12′ | 8′ | Light Gray | Black foliage | 90 | Bush-like | Deep red blooms Uniquely colored foliage Drought tolerant Great size for smaller gardens | ||
| Black Diamond® Shell Pink™ Crape Myrtle | 10-12′ | 8′ | Light Gray | Black foliage | 90 | Bush-like | Uniquely colored foliage Bright pink blooms Drought tolerant Great size for smaller gardens |
Check out this video on the Black Diamond Crape Myrtle varieties!
Crape Myrtle Planting LocationChoose the best place in the landscape for to plant crape myrtle. Consider the ultimate size of the small tree and note if there might eventually be problems with overhead wires, poles, structures or other desirable trees or large shrubs. Perfect Plants’ Black Diamond crape myrtle trees get only 10-12 feet tall and spread just 8 feet across, but some of the older cultivars (such as ‘Natchez’, ‘Red Rocket’ and ‘Tuscarora’) get considerably larger.
Crape myrtles do best in full sun – the sunnier the spot, the better, but they should get at least 6 hours of sun each day. Crape myrtles bloom poorly in partial sun and may not bloom at all in a mostly shady location. Crape myrtles like a soil that is relatively moist but still well drained.
Once established, however, they do well in dry, sandy soils. Crape myrtles do not tolerate soils that stay waterlogged for extended periods.
A perfect spot would be to line driveways or fences because they provide a beautiful site for years to come.
Crape Myrtle Shipping When your plant arrives, open the package immediately and carefully remove the pot and tree. Inspect the tree for damage and if it’s in good shape (they almost always are!). Water the soil if it is dry and place the pot in a shady or partly shady spot until you can plant the crape myrtle.Crape Myrtle Planting When planting a crepe myrtle bush, thoroughly water the soil in the plant’s pot before starting. Dig a hole larger than the pot, twice as wide if possible. Place the pot on its side and slide the plant out. If the plant is stuck, you can slip a long-bladed knife around the inside edge to loosen it. Gently loosen some of the roots along the sides and bottom, and pull them outward so they are not encircling the root mass.
It shouldn’t be necessary to prune any of the roots.The exception is large root(s) wound around the circumference of the pot. In this case the offending root should be shortened so that when it is in the ground it will grow outward and not continue growing in a circle.
Wound roots – BEFORE & AFTER
Build up a mound of soil in the middle of the planting hole. Place the new tree’s root crown on top of the mounded soil so that the stem will be at the same depth as it was in the pot. Spread the side roots out over the mounded soil while backfilling the hole.
Work the soil in and around the roots. When the hole is half filled, give it and the roots a good soaking of water. When the water has drained, readjust the depth of the stem if necessary and finish filling the hole. Gently tamp the soil down with your hands.
Use your hands to build up a 3-6 inch high dike of soil around the outside of the root zone. This will help impound water over the roots while it sinks into the soil.
Water thoroughly. Spread 3-6 inches of an organic mulch over the top of root ball to help hold in soil moisture. You can use hay, straw, leaves, pine needles, or grass clippings. You might look into doing a soil test to see what nutrients are lacking from your soil and what type of fertilizer you should use as well as the soil pH. This will also help with diseases such as leaf spot.
You may need to stake the new crape myrtle until its roots become established enough to keep it from falling over in strong wind. Drive 2 or 3 stakes into the ground 2-4 feet out from the trunk and use wire or twine to hold the trunk upright. Cover the wire where it attaches to the trunk with a section of old garden hose, cloth or other material to prevent it from damaging the bark.
The attachment on the trunk should be loose enough to allow some movement; if the trunk is not allowed to move a little in the wind it will become weak. The supporting stakes are just to make sure the young plant doesn’t fall over completely.
Supports usually can be removed after the first year.
Keep the young tree well watered during its first growing season. They do like well drained potting soil. If planted in the winter months, you can water once a week. Crepe myrtles trees are cold hardy to some extent but be sure to check each varieties USDA plant hardiness zone to make sure it will survive in your area.
Planted during the growing season, a crape myrtle should get watered every 2 or 3 days for 3 or 4 months. If you’re having a dry spell, or your soil is sandy, you should water every day for the first 3 or 4 months. The most common reason for a newly planted crape myrtle tree to die is the lack of enough water.
Crape Myrtle Care
Maintenance Once established (after a year of growth), crape myrtles can tolerate dry spells and should not need any supplemental watering in climates that average at least 20 inches of rain per year (which is all of the eastern US and much of the West).
Crape myrtles benefit from an annual application of fertilizer, such as Nutricote Total Controlled Release Type 360 Fertilizer 18-6-8. Follow label directions and don’t over-fertilize, as this can result in excessive leaf growth, production of unsightly suckers, and fewer flowers.
Some varieties of crape myrtle tend to produce suckers, slender fast growing shoots, at the base of the tree. If your desire is for a standard (single trunk) tree shape, the suckers should be pruned off as they appear. Otherwise, the tree may take on the natural shape of a crape myrtle bush, shrub, or small tree with multiple trunks. Crape myrtles bloom on their new growth each year, so any pruning of the main tree (as opposed to removing basal suckers) should be done during late winter when the tree is not growing. If you cut off new growth in spring or summer, you cut off developing summer blooms. If you prune in autumn, the tree could begin new vigorous growth that will then be susceptible to freezing which could kill the tree.
When it comes to pruning crape myrtles, there are two distinctly different schools of thought:
- Some like to cut them back all the way to a few of the largest limbs, leaving just a stubby skeleton. When growth resumes, these flowering trees sprout numerous shoots from each stub and develop a rounded, lollipop-like shape that is covered in flowers. Crapes pruned this way are good for borders and hedges where uniform height is desired. However, this “crape murder”, as some call it, results in thin, arching stems and destroys the architectural beauty that characterizes a free-growing crape myrtle.
- Most gardeners prefer to allow their crapes to grow into a more natural form, and very little pruning is ever needed. Limbs that cross and growing branches that are too long or too crowded can be pruned out to maintain a desirable shape. Cut the unwanted branch back to a branch that has at least 1/3, but preferably 1/2 or more, the diameter of the one you are cutting.
This is called a thinning cut. If you merely lop off a branch anywhere (a heading cut), the plant will respond with numerous weak and unsightly shoots just below the cut. Pruning all the way back to a branch at least 1/3 the diameter allows the remaining branch to grow normally.
Either way, you prune your crape myrtle trees and shrubs, you will still be awarded with flowers. Some varieties of crape myrtle will produce a second or even third flush of red, pink, or white flowers if the spent flower heads are cut off soon after they have finished blooming. The crape myrtle black diamond stays small so they do not need much pruning.
Crape Myrtle Diseases
Crape myrtles are sometimes attacked by aphids, and then sooty mold often grows on the aphid excrement. This gives the dark green leaves a gray or brownish coating that is not harmful but can be unsightly. Sometimes an aphid infestation becomes so extreme that the green leaves are damaged and flowering may be impaired. You can control aphids by spraying with a soapy water solution. Chemical controls for aphids include insecticides that include malathion, diazinon, or ultra-fine horticultural oil. Follow label directions explicitly.
During warm humid weather that persists for several days and nights, crape myrtles sometimes are attacked by a fungus called powdery mildew. This looks like a grayish powdery fuzz on the leaves. It occurs especially on crape myrtles growing in damp and shady locations, where air circulation is poor. Powdery mildew is not fatal but can cause deformation of the leaves and stunted growth. It goes away when conditions become less hot and humid.
The best way to control powdery mildew is to prevent it. If your crape myrtle is in full sun, and not crowded next to other plants, powdery mildew, which abhors fresh air and a sunny spot, should not be a problem. Some varieties of crape myrtle are resistant to powdery mildew. ‘Natchez’, ‘Sioux‘, ‘Tonto‘ and ‘Tuscarora‘ all have very good resistance to powdery mildew. If you decide you need to do something about powdery mildew on your crape myrtle, you can treat the foliage with a fungicide labeled for the purpose. Choose a copper-based fungicide or one that contains myclobutanil, propiconazole, or thiophanate-methyl. Follow the label directions exactly.
Some Crape Myrtles are both drought tolerant and mildew resistant such as the Muskogee Crape Myrtle or the Best Red Black Diamond and make a great addition to any landscape.
Best Selling Crape Myrtles
Black Diamond® Pure White™ Crape Myrtle Tree
$ 64.95
Black Diamond® Best Red™ Crape Myrtle Tree
$59.95Please enable JavaScript to view the comments powered by Disqus.
More from: Flowering Trees
Back to GROW GUIDESMyrtle is a symbol of peace and tranquility.
The ancient Greeks considered myrtle a symbol of youth, beauty and chastity. Even then, the beneficial effect of essential oils was noted. Noble townspeople washed themselves with water infused with myrtle. Wine infusion on the fruits of myrtle was used as an elixir of health and vigor. By releasing phytoncides, myrtle destroys pathogenic microbes, even in extremely small doses, phytoncides kill tuberculosis and diphtheria bacilli and other bacteria. A plant with a total leaf area of 1.5 m² can purify 100 cubic meters of air by 40-50%, kills up to 22% of streptococci and up to 40% of staphylococci. Helps to cope with influenza and acute respiratory infections.
Myrtle. © Sarah GreggDescription of myrtle
Myrtle (lat. Myrtus) is a genus of southern evergreen woody plants with white fluffy flowers and dark green leaves containing essential oil. Also, myrtle used to be called a wreath of flowers and leaves of such a tree or its branch - a symbol of silence, peace and pleasure.
Myrtle is a fragrant evergreen tree. It has dark green, as if polished leaves, beautiful flowers. Myrtle leaves contain an essential oil that was used to make incense. Myrtle was a sign of glory and good deeds. Myrtle wreath with roses in ancient times was a favorite wedding decoration.
Myrtle. © Giancarlo DessìMyrtle mythology
In ancient times, myrtle was an attribute of the goddess Venus and her three maids, the three graces. During the Renaissance, evergreen myrtle began to symbolize eternal love, especially marital fidelity.
During the Renaissance, evergreen myrtle began to symbolize eternal love, especially marital fidelity.
The very word "myrtle" is of Greek origin. Legend has it that the nymph Mirsina, whom Athena herself admired and admired, defeated this supreme goddess of Olympus in a race. Envy overshadowed admiration for her beloved, and Athena killed the nymph in retaliation for hurt pride. But coming to her senses, she was horrified and began to pray for the advice of the Olympian gods, so that they would leave her at least some recollection of Mirsin.
The gods took pity, and an elegant plant, like the nymph herself, grew out of the body of the deceased - myrtle.
According to legend, Aphrodite was crowned with a wreath of myrtle during the famous dispute, thanks to which Paris gave her his apple. Since then, myrtle has become the favorite flower of the goddess of love and beauty, sometimes she even called herself Myrthea. Many myrtle bushes were planted around the temples of Aphrodite, and during the annual festivities in honor of this goddess, everyone was decorated with myrtle wreaths.
Features of growing myrtle
Flowering: usually in summer and until mid-autumn.
Height: myrtle grows quite slowly: annual growth is 10-15 cm.
Light: bright diffused; The plant is able to tolerate a certain amount of sunlight.
Temperature: moderate or slightly below moderate in spring and summer, 18-20 °C; during the winter months, the myrtle tree is best kept at 5°C and no higher than 8-10°C.
Watering: from spring to autumn, regular and plentiful (as the top layer of the substrate dries up), limited in winter.
Air humidity: Spray the plant from spring to autumn.
Top dressing: Fertilize weekly with flower fertilizer from spring to autumn.
Pruning: plants can be pruned and sheared so they can be shaped to any shape.
Rest period: in winter; the plant is kept in a bright, cool (5-10 ° C) place, watering is limited.
Transplantation: young plants are transplanted every year in the spring, without deepening the base of the trunk into the soil, then transplantation is carried out if necessary after 2-3 years.
Propagation: the plant is propagated by seeds, cuttings.
Myrtle. © Forest & Kim StarrCaring for Myrtle
Myrtle loves bright indirect light and tolerates some direct sunlight.
Suitable for growing near western and eastern windows. At the windows of the south direction in the summer, it is necessary to provide the plant with protection from the midday sun. It can grow on a north window, but flowering will be less plentiful. In winter, myrtle is placed in the most illuminated places.
In summer, the myrtle can be placed outdoors, in a place where the direct midday sun is protected. The plant should be accustomed to a new level of illumination gradually. Some flower growers bury a pot of myrtle directly into the ground to harden the plant for the summer.
Myrtle loves coolness, in spring and summer he needs a moderate or slightly below moderate temperature (18-20 °C). During the winter months, the myrtle tree is best kept at 5°C and no higher than 8-10°C. At higher than optimal winter temperatures, the plant may shed its leaves.
Myrtle needs fresh air.
Water myrtle from spring to autumn regularly and abundantly (as the upper layer of the substrate dries up), in winter - limitedly, with soft settled water.
In no case should even a short-term drying of the soil be allowed. If, nevertheless, the substrate is dry, apply watering by immersing the pot in a container of water. At the same time, care must be taken that the water does not stagnate in the pan.
Monitor the air humidity carefully. Although under natural myrtle conditions, air humidity rarely exceeds 60%, in rooms with central heating it is usually less than half. From spring to autumn, the plant should be sprayed regularly. For spraying, use only soft settled or filtered water. In winter, when kept cool, the plant is not sprayed.
From spring to autumn, the myrtle is fertilized, as already noted, with a weekly flower fertilizer.
Myrtle has a pronounced rest period. Depending on the position in the room, the myrtle is at rest from 3 (on the north window) to 1.5 (on the south) months.
Myrtle easily tolerates a haircut, and it can be given a very bizarre shape. Several ways of forming a plant are given: “If myrtle (this is how myrtle was called in Russia at the beginning of the 20th century) is left to itself, then the plant will take the form of a pyramid.
If you cut off the upper shoot, then the shape of a bush, if, finally, cut off the side shoots, then the myrtle takes the form of a crowned tree and branches at the top.
However, the author advises against pruning lateral shoots too much, especially in young plants, since the myrtle stem is not strong enough. Also, do not pinch young shoots too often - this reduces the intensity of flowering. Therefore, when caring for myrtle, you need to decide what is preferable - strongly branching compact bushes or beautifully flowering specimens with a loose crown.
Young plants are replanted every year in the spring, without deepening the base of the trunk into the soil, then replanting is carried out if necessary after 2-3 years. The following mixtures are recommended as a substrate: 1) sod-humus-peat soil and sand in equal proportions; 2) ordinary greenhouse soil; 3) clay-soddy-peat-humus soil and sand (1:1:1:0.5). The pH of the substrate should be in the region of 5-6. The bottom of the pot provides a good layer of drainage.
Propagation of myrtle
Myrtle is propagated by seeds and cuttings.
Propagation of myrtle seeds
For sowing, we make a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 1:1 (you can mix peat with vermiculite (1:1)). The substrate is moistened (you can shed the substrate with a fungicide).
The seeds are spread over the surface of the substrate, sprinkled on top with a thin layer of the substrate. The container with seeds is covered with glass or a transparent bag (you can use cling film). The temperature is maintained not lower than +18..20 °C. Periodically ventilate by removing the shelter. The substrate must be kept moist, try not to overmoisten or overdry.
Seedlings usually germinate in 7-14 days. When the seedlings have two true leaves, they dive into pots of the appropriate size. The substrate is made up of soddy land - 1 hour, humus - 1 hour, peat - 1 hour and sand - 1 hour. After transshipment, the seedlings may freeze in growth for a while, after a while they usually start growing again.
Transshipment is made after weaving the clod of earth with roots. Further care - as for adult plants.
Seed-grown myrtle blooms at the age of 5.
Propagation of myrtle by cuttings
Myrtle is propagated by semi-lignified cuttings in January-February and in summer - in July. Cuttings are taken from the lower and middle parts of the crown, the size of the cutting is 5-8 cm; to reduce evaporation, half of the existing leaves are cut off, and the remaining ones are shortened. It is useful to treat the cut with growth stimulants. N. Tsybulya et al recommend using heteroauxin mixed with ascorbic acid (0.25% 0). Root in boxes, bowls, wide low pots in a mixture of leafy soil and coarse sand, or sphagnum and sand in a cool (16-20 ° C) shaded place.
Cuttings are watered, sprayed and covered with glass or plastic wrap. Occasionally, the soil is ventilated to avoid rotting of the cuttings and acidification of the soil. Cuttings take root within 20-30 days.
Rooted cuttings are planted in 7 cm pots. The substrate is made up of turf land - 1 hour, humus - 1 hour, peat - 1 hour and sand - 1 hour. Water plentifully. Young plants are pinched to encourage flowering. By weaving a clod of earth with roots, transshipment is given. A plant from cuttings blooms for 3-4 years.
Myrtle species
Myrtle (Myrtus ) belongs to genus from 16 to 40 species of the myrtle family. Species of the genus Myrtle are common in North Africa, Western Asia, on the islands of the Caribbean, in Florida (USA), on the Azores, in Europe (Mediterranean region).
One species is widely known in culture - Common myrtle M. communis.
Common myrtle (Myrtus communis). Grows in the undergrowth of evergreen oaks and pines and in thickets of shrubs in the Mediterranean region, the Azores, North Africa. Trees or shrubs up to 3-4 m tall; shoots 4-sided, finely hairy, rounded, glabrous.
Leaves opposite, sometimes collected in 3, ovate, lanceolate, 2-4 (up to 5) cm long and 1-2 cm wide, pointed, leathery, entire, smooth, glabrous, glossy.
If you look at a leaf of myrtle in the light, you can see small dots filled with essential oil, thanks to which the plant emits a pleasant aroma. The most fragrant white flowers of the plant. They are medium-sized (up to 2 cm in diameter), five-petalled, located one at a time on long pedicels. Numerous golden stamens give them a special identity.
In nature, myrtle reaches a height of 3-5 m. In cultivation, the plant is not tall (about 60 cm), rarely reaches 1 m.
Possible difficulties in growing myrtle
If there is not enough light, the stems stretch, the leaves become smaller and pale, in case of its excess, they fade, turn yellow, the edges curl. In a dark room with a high temperature, the plant sheds its leaves.
The plant suffers greatly from overdrying and overflowing of the substrate. If the plant has shed its leaves due to overdrying or waterlogging, cut the shoots to half and continue watering (in case of waterlogging, watering is very careful) and spraying.
After two weeks, young leaves may appear.
If placed too warm and dark, leaves may fall off. If suddenly the leaves began to fly around from the myrtle, then the matter is in the wrong watering: it is either insufficient or excessive. In this case, it can be recommended to immerse the overdried plant in water, and transplant the waterlogged one. However, most often the plant cannot be saved.
Pests primarily affect old specimens. This is also facilitated by too high air temperatures in winter.
Lagerstroemia Indian Indian lilac Growing from seed Hardy varieties Planting and gardening
Botanical description and origin of the plant
Lagerstroemia (lat. Lagerstroemia) is a genus of shrubs and small trees with colorful lush flowering. In the everyday life of Russian flower growers, it is known as the Indian lilac, but this is actually only one of the 25 existing types of lagerstroemia.
Charming southern beauty got her name in honor of the German merchant Magnus von Lagerström.
He gave away plant seedlings to the governors of Mediterranean cities. Lagerstromia comes from China, however, it began to spread from India, it is also found naturally in Asia and mainland Australia.
Indian lilac is successfully grown as an ornamental garden plant in the Mediterranean, southern part of Ukraine, Belarus, Russia. As a houseplant, it is popular all over the world. Flower growers of the middle lane have adapted to cultivate lagerstroemia in flowerpots at home, for the summer the bush moves to the garden, and winters again in a warm room.
Let's get acquainted with the appearance of lagerstroemia from the Derbennikov family. Under natural conditions, trees can grow to a height of 10 m, but indoor varieties are limited to a height of 1-1.5 meters. The leaves are elongated-oval, short-petiolate, dark green in color with a shiny surface, located oppositely on the shoots. With the onset of autumn, they turn yellow or red, fall off by winter.
When warm, the first buds will appear in January.
When Lagerstromia blooms
Lagerstroemia blooms for a long time at home and in the garden under the right conditions: from July to the end of October. Closed rounded buds of a green hue are more reminiscent of berries. When the flowers bloom with wavy petals along the edges, the racemose inflorescence will become lush. Color range from white to lilac and red. It is interesting that at the same time flowers of different colors open on the same bush. The fruits are in the form of segmented capsules with seeds.
Rules of care
Regarding the general rules of care: Lagerstromia needs bright and diffused lighting, it is important to keep it warm all year round, regular watering and top dressing. Annual spring pruning will be required to maintain a neat shape and neat appearance.
Indian lilacs are susceptible to inappropriate conditions and bloom may be short or sparse. The beauty of the inflorescences is affected by lighting and pruning.
Houseplants are more resistant to diseases and pests, and preventive spraying is carried out with respect to garden plants.
Growing lagerstromia from seeds at home
Lagerstroemia seeds photo
When cross-pollinated, varietal differences of plants are lost, so it is better to purchase seeds for sowing in specialized sales outlets. Starting the sowing procedure in spring in March .
Prepare a wide container or cassette. Use the soil universal for growing seedlings. Pour it into a container, moisten and sow the seeds, planting to a depth of 1-2 cm. Cover tightly with a piece of glass or transparent film.
Seed lagerstromia photo shoots
- Lighting should be bright and diffused, the temperature should be at 24 °C.
- Plants should be aired daily to prevent mold, if necessary moisten the soil surface by spraying with a fine mist sprayer.
- Sprouts will start showing after 2-4 weeks.
- We get rid of the shelter and water it moderately.
- After unfolding a pair of true leaves, transplant into separate preferably peat pots for easier transfer to open ground or flowerpot.
- Take care not to damage the roots, gently pry the seedling with a spatula and transfer to a pot.
Further care is simple: provide good lighting with a long daylight hours and room temperature. Provide dry air, take care of spraying the leaves or install a humidifier nearby.
Lagerstroemia in the open field: planting and care
Lagerstroemia in the urban landscape photo
Choose a place in an open sunny place. In an area where other plants suffer from heat, lagestremia feels great. With active sun, the bush blooms more magnificently.
The soil needs to be moderately nutritious and loose.
Best grown in moderately moist, well-drained soils in full sun. Feels good on loamy, clay soils with good drainage. Prefers slow release fertilizer conditions. Thick black earth is not suitable for a beauty.
It is advisable to plant on cultivated garden soil with the addition of coarse sand. Overly fertile soils tend to produce lush foliage at the expense of flowering, and the plant is more susceptible to winter injury. Does not tolerate flooding and stagnant water.
Plant in sheltered areas and apply winter mulch. The above-ground part of young plants often dies off in winter, especially when the temperature drops below -15 degrees Celsius. The winter hardiness zone of the plant is 5 (frosts down to -26, -28 ° C), but plants do not always withstand such frosts. In zone 6a, some growers prefer to grow these plants in much the same way as buddleias, cutting all stems to a height of 20 cm in early spring each year. The roots push out new stems, which usually grow 0.6-1.2 m (sometimes more) by the end of the growing season. Flowers are produced on a new tree no worse than on old branches.
Indian lilac as an ornamental shrub photo
You can grow these plants as woody shrubs, cutting them back to living wood in the spring when new foliage begins to appear (much like some rose bushes).
Given cover, the tree will survive some winters, but may still be seriously injured or die at the top during harsh winters.
Diseases and pests
The two main diseases of the Indian lilac are fungal leaf spot and powdery mildew. Foliage may turn yellow (chlorosis) in alkaline soils. There is some susceptibility to aphids. Winter injuries, especially on growth tips, are common in USDA hardiness zones 5 and 6.
Benefits of plant
Key benefits include long flowering period, peeling bark and excellent fall color. At the end of summer (sometimes before frost), terminal, fortified inflorescences (up to 0.3-0.5 m long) of showy flowers with twisted petals bloom on vertical branches. In the wild, the flowers are usually pink to red. Cultivated varieties have expanded the range of flowers to include white, pink, mauve, lavender and purple. Leaves alternate to opposite, thick and leathery, elliptical to oblong (up to 7 cm long) often turn light green with a hint of red, mature dark green by summer, and finally turn attractive shades of yellow-orange-orange .
red in autumn.
Flowers give way to round seed capsules that often persist through the winter. The smooth, pale pinkish gray bark on mature branches flakes off with age. Where winter injury can be a problem, plants typically grow up to 1.2m tall. In the deep south, plants will grow much taller if not pruned in the spring. Plants of common species are not for sale. Over the years, many cultivars have been introduced ranging from dwarf to tree size, many of which are hybrids between L. indica and L. faueri species.
Wintering of the Indian lilac
Proper wintering is extremely important. It all depends on how you grow. If lagestremia is cultivated in a tub, after yellowing and falling of the leaves, it is brought into a room with an air temperature of 5-10 ° C with a plus sign. Suitable basement. Water about once a month. In early March, bring to a warmer room and prune.
Move to fresh air with the onset of April days. If a bush / tree is grown in open ground, before winter it is cut off, spudded, the soil is mulched with sawdust and covered with spruce branches.
In the garden, the plant comes to life later than the rest, and this phenomenon causes concern among novice flower growers. As soon as the soil warms up well, the Indian lilac will begin to grow.
Lagerstroemia at home: cultivation and care
Lagerstroemia at home photo
Lighting and temperature conditions
To place lagerstroemia, choose a place near a window with a southeast or southwest orientation. It is bright diffused light that promotes active growth and regular flowering. Even direct sunlight is not terrible, which should be accustomed to gradually. In the shade, shoots stretch in search of light and one should not expect lush caps of inflorescences.
Frost resistance of lagerstroemia is low. The plant in the tub will withstand temperatures as low as -5 °C. Garden plants become hardened and tolerate short-term frost down to -10 ° C. During the period of active growth and development, a moderately warm content in the temperature range of 18-24 ° C is required.
For winter recreation, temperatures are optimal in the range of 10-12 ° C. In this case, a winter garden, a glazed balcony, a loggia or a veranda would be a suitable place to keep. With a warm winter, the plant looks weakened and may not bloom at all.
Watering and air humidity
One of the key rules of care is regular watering without drying out the soil and stagnant moisture. During the period of active growth, the top layer of the substrate should be constantly slightly moist. When drying an earthy coma, the buds first fall off, then the leaves. No less dangerous is waterlogging in which fungal diseases develop. From spring to mid-autumn, water in about a day, in extreme heat, supplement the procedure by spraying on the leaves from a fine sprayer. With the end of the flowering of water, less and less will be required.
In winter, moistening the substrate is rarely enough. Bring the flowerpot with the plant into a warm room, water it and return it to a cool place after a few hours.
For spraying and watering, in any case, it is necessary to use high-quality water without impurities. Previously, it is defended for 1-2 days or filtered, you can take rain or melt, be sure to bring the temperature to room temperature.
Indian lilacs should maintain 55-60% humidity during the growing season. To do this, spray the bush with water over the leaves from a fine spray, preferably in the morning or evening hours (water in combination with direct sunlight can cause burns to the leaves). From time to time, put the pot on a pallet with wet expanded clay, moss, pebbles.
How to feed
If the soil lacks the necessary microelements, the development of new shoots slows down, the appearance of the inflorescences deteriorates. So, indoor lagerstroemia is fed with complex mineral fertilizers in liquid form during the period of active growth. In the spring it is necessary to apply top dressing with a high nitrogen content, during the formation of buds and flowering, focus on the proportion of potassium and phosphorus.
The frequency of feeding is 15 days. "Pamper" a garden plant with fertilizers according to a similar scheme; organics can be used.
Pruning and crown shaping
Lagerstromia bonsai photo
Such a procedure is simply necessary for the plant. Indian lilac grows rapidly, branches actively and, with free development, will reach large sizes and stop blooming (inflorescences appear more on new shoots). With the achievement of the age of 1-2 years, begin to trim the lagerstroemia. The best period is the autumn time after the end of flowering. It is allowed to shorten the shoots in early spring before the start of active sap flow, it is important to have time before the end of March, because flower buds are already being laid on the tops of the shoots. Cut off 20-30 cm, leaving a third of the length.
Broken, elongated, diseased shoots, as well as twigs growing inwards are subject to mandatory pruning.
Use shaping trim if desired. To get a single-stem tree, you need to leave one powerful shoot growing from the root, and remove the rest.
To create a shrub, leave a few good root shoots. Lagerstromia is great in the bonsai technique. To bend the branches in the desired direction, wrap them spirally with thick wire and give the desired shape. Over time, the trunk and branches will become woody, and the aids are removed. It turns out a naked winding stem with a lush flowering top.
Transplantation of Indian lilac at home
Lagerstromia tolerates transplantation painfully, the most gentle way is transshipment along with a clod of earth. The root system develops slowly, so the procedure is carried out no more than a frequency of 2-3 years. In the year when transplantation is not performed, it is advisable to replace the top layer of soil in the pot with a new one.
In a large pot, Lagerstromia will grow its rhizome and green mass for a long time, and will not bloom soon. Initially, we choose a flower pot a little larger than the root system of the seedling, keep in mind that the roots grow more in depth.
Each time we increase the volume of the container by 2-3 cm.
It is advisable to transplant in the spring before the start of the active growth period. As a last resort, transplant blooming lagerstromia.
A prerequisite is the laying of drainage to the bottom. A layer of pebbles, expanded clay, small stones, broken bricks should occupy ¼ of the total volume of the pot in order to avoid moisture stagnation and further decay. The substrate must meet such characteristics as friability, water and air permeability. It is convenient to use a purchased universal soil for flowering plants. There is nothing difficult in self-preparation of the soil mixture. It will be necessary to mix turfy soil, leaf humus, peat and coarse sand in equal proportions.
How Lagerstemia hibernates in a tub video:
Propagation of Lagerstroemia by cuttings and basal shoots
To grow a new bush or tree of Indian lilac, cuttings should be separated in spring.
Cut them 10-15 cm long from semi-lignified shoots. Treat with a growth stimulator solution (Epin, Kornevin, etc.). If there is a lot of planting material, plant for rooting in a common container with a sand-peat mixture, cover with transparent glass or a bag.
How to cut Indian lilac photo
If there are 1-2 cuttings, they are individually covered with a cut plastic bottle or glass jar. It will require heat, bright diffused lighting, moderate watering and periodic airing. Roots will appear after 20 days, as evidenced by increased growth. Then we seat for a separate growth.
Propagation of Lagerstroemia by cuttings photo
Lagerstroemia produces side shoots like lilacs. In the spring, carefully dig them up and plant them as independent plants.
Diseases and pests of lagerstroemia
With proper care for diseases and pests, lagerstroemia does not suffer. It is not so easy to provide her with the necessary conditions; the Indian lilac will react instantly to poor care.
It all depends on the knowledge and skills of the grower. Even during the dormant period, the flower must be observed. Improper wintering, poor lighting and watering, lack of pruning will make the bush weak, it will not bloom.
Let's talk more about the difficulties of growing:
- Potted lagerstroemia often suffers from powdery mildew when overwatered. If a grayish coating is found, immediately dry the substrate and treat the plant with a suitable fungicide. Prevention is competent watering, the presence of drainage and a loose substrate;
- Indian lilacs can be attacked outdoors by aphids. We get rid of its accumulations on leaves and young shoots with the help of insecticidal preparations;
- If flowering is poor, the reasons lie in insufficient lighting, incorrect temperature conditions, lack of a dormant period;
- If pruned incorrectly, lagerstroemia will not bloom;
- Lagerstroemia shoots stretch out when there is a lack of nutrients or poor lighting;
- Flowers and leaves fall off when the earthen ball dries up;
- The plant has died.
Lagerstromia suffered from improper watering (overmoistening or overdrying), and exposure to low temperatures also has a deplorable outcome.
Lagerstromia in landscape design
Indian lilac bushes and trees look great in solo plantings. They will be accompanied by other flowering shrubs, ferns, conifers, and cereals.
Lagerstromia as a decoration of the landscape photo
This beauty really looks like a lilac, only it blooms not only in spring, but in summer, which can captivate not only landscape designers, but also any owner of a manor or a summer house: next to the house, these trees become a real enchanting explosion, eye-catching.
Lagerstremia in the city photo
Indian lilac fits beautifully into any environment, harmonizes with facades in the style of classicism, modern, half-timbered, country, English, Chalet, etc.
Indian lilac in landscape design photo
Lagerstromia bushes look very good next to administrative buildings, educational institutions, shopping centers and shops.
Even in the conditions of the middle zone, it is possible to use the plant as an ornamental shrub wintering under cover.
Lagerstromia Indian or Indian lilac: winter-hardy varieties
Remember that frost resistance is conditional: it means the lowest temperature that the roots of plants can withstand, provided there is good winter shelter. The ground part is already damaged at -5, -10°C.
Indian lilac cultivar Cherry Dazzle photo
Cherry dazzle (Cherry Dazzle) is a low-growing shrub showing resistance to diseases and pests. Young leaves have a bronze hue, then they turn green, and turn purple in autumn. Pink or red flowers last from May until the end of June. Winter hardiness zone 6a-10b (withstands short-term frosts down to -23°C).
Indian lilac ‘Cordon Bleu’ photo
Cordon Blue is a low growing shrub that blooms from May to late June. Corollas have a lilac-blue hue, they gather in loose inflorescences-clouds of various shapes. The leaves are oblong, dark green, turning yellow in autumn.
Winter hardiness down to -17°С.
Indian lilac Dynamite Lagerstroemia indica ‘Dynamite’ photo
Dynamite is a shrub or tree up to 3 m high. The branches and shoots are covered with smooth grey-green bark. Dense dark green leaves turn yellow in autumn. The petals are corrugated, their color is fiery red. The flowering period is May-June. Winter hardiness zone 7A - 9B (withstands frosts down to -17 ° C).
Indian lilac cultivar White Chocolate photo
White Chocolate is a medium-sized shrub about 3 m high. Active branching. The bark is smooth light brown. The leaves are small with slightly wavy edges, have a bronze-green tint. Lush panicles are formed by snow-white corollas. May-June is the flowering phase. Places with bright sunlight are suitable for planting. Hardiness zone 7-9(withstands frosts up to 15°С).
Lagerstremia cultivar Light pink photo
Light pink is a small tree or shrub that is excellent for both horticulture and container growing.
During flowering (May-June), dark emerald leaves are practically hidden by caps of light pink inflorescences.
Indian lilac Purple Magic photo
Lilac purple is one of the most popular varieties of Indian lilac. This is a medium growing shrub with smooth dark brown shoots. Emerald leaves are slightly bent. Inflorescences of a purple hue adorn the bushes in May-June.
Indian lilac Red Filli photo
Red Filli is a shrub of medium height. The leaves are glossy, emerald green. A dense panicle of inflorescence is formed by small coral flowers. Winter hardiness zone 5b (withstands frosts down to -26°C).
Worth mentioning varieties are Red Rokket with pink flowers, Zuni with lilac inflorescences, bicolor Berlington.
Indian Lilac cultivar Lagerstroemia indica ‘Victor Dwarf’ photo
Victor Red is a dwarf cultivar that grows to about 1.2m tall and wide, making it an excellent choice for small garden spaces. In summer, an upright rounded shrub is covered with dark red flower clusters.
In autumn, the foliage turns into a bright orange-red bonfire. After the leaves have fallen in autumn, the peeling bark is of interest during the winter months. Hardiness zone 7-9.
Victor Red is a dwarf that fits perfectly into small gardens and spaces. Suitable for containers. Planted solo, in small groups or as a colorful hedge.
Types of lagerstroemia
Lagerstroemia indica or Indian lilac Lagerstroemia indica
The most popular species for cultivation. High adaptability and survival in any conditions contributed to the wide distribution. The bush or tree is branched, the surface of the trunk / stem and shoots is covered with a skin of a light brown hue. Leaves about 6 cm long are attached with short petioles opposite each other. The front part is dark green glossy, and the back is matte and whitish. The lush pyramidal inflorescence is 20 cm long.
Lagerstroemia balansae
Takes the form of a shrub or tall tree (height 5 and 25 m respectively).
On the trunk and adult branches, the bark is yellowish. Young shoots, petioles, flower tubes and inflorescences have a golden to red-brown hue. The leaves are elliptical in shape, rather large: 3-6 cm wide and up to 15 cm long. On the tops of the shoots, racemose inflorescences in the form of pyramids up to 20 cm high rise. The corrugated petals have a bright purple hue. This species in nature lives in mixed forests of Vietnam, Thailand, Laos, Hainan.
Lagerstroemia excelsa
Beautiful branched trees about 30 m high. On the trunk and lignified branches the bark is glossy. Petioles, veins on the reverse side of the leaves, young shoots slightly pubescent. Large (6-14 cm long and 3-5 cm wide) obovate leaves are mirror-like. Blooms from April to late July. The shade of the petals is whitish-yellow. Plants are found at an altitude of 1-2 km above sea level in dense forests and mountain valleys of Sichuan, Hubei, Guangzhou.
Lagerstroemia caudata
Thirty-meter trees with a smooth trunk and branches.
The leaf blades are wedge-shaped at the base and pointed at the tops, the surface is dark green, glossy. Pairs of leaves are rarely arranged. Petals are white. The flowering period begins in April and lasts until October. Likes calcareous soils.
Lagerstroemia fordii
Medium-sized (3 to 9 m) trees or shrubs. Smooth brown bark with whitish patches. The lanceolate pointed leaves are about 11 cm long. The petals have a bright pink or red hue. The species is originally from Hong Kong, where it settles in the lowlands of the mountains and on river banks.
Lagerstroemia speciosa, royal crepe myrtle, banana tree Lagerstroemia speciosa
Grows in the Philippines and India, tropical South Asia.
This is a small to medium tree growing up to 20 meters tall with smooth, flaky bark. The leaves are oval to elliptical, 8-15 cm long and 3-7 cm wide, with a sharp tip.
Red crepe myrtle in landscaping photo
Flowers in erect panicles 20-40 cm long, each flower with six white, red or purple petals 2-3.
5 cm long. Flowers appear only once at the height of summer.
Lagerstroemia glabra
Trees or shrubs about 6 m high. Even smooth branches densely leafy. Petals are white. The period of flowering and fruit set lasts from July to October.
Lagerstroemia guilinensis Lagerstroemia guilinensis
Compact shrub up to 2.5 m high. Small leaves 6 cm long have a rounded base and sharp tips. The fluffy panicle of the inflorescence is formed by snow-white petals.
Lagerstroemia anhuiensis
Trees or shrubs, 2 m high. Tetrahedral branches covered with chocolate-yellow bark, densely pubescent. The elliptical leaves are 4 cm long, the surface is bright green, shiny, the reverse side of the emerald color with a dense pile. In inflorescences, the white petals are accentuated by chocolate sepals. The flowering period is observed from July to October.
Lagerstroemia tomentosa
Lagerstroemia tomentosa photo
Tree-like plant 3-5 m high.
