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How do you prune a plum tree


How to Prune a Plum Tree

Plum trees are the perfect first fruit tree for a home orchard. They are beautiful, fruitful, and easy to prune. You’ve done the work of finding the right plum variety and putting it in the ground. Now, this article will equip you to prune a plum tree from year one to maturity. Keep reading to learn all there is to know about pruning a plum tree!

Why Prune a Plum Tree

Fruits such as grapes, blueberries, or even peach trees will become unproductive without proper pruning. In contrast, plum trees can thrive even if you make a few mistakes when new to pruning. 

So, why is pruning plum trees worth the time? Basically, neglected trees will be smaller and bear less fruit than a pruned plum tree, but here are four main reasons to prune a plum tree:

  1. To create a manageable shape that is open to sunlight penetration and air circulation. Nobody wants to fight their plum tree just to prune it.
  2. To develop a strong framework of scaffold branches that won’t break under fruit load.  
  3. To remove diseased branches or damaged wood. 
  4. To encourage optimal fruit production of high-quality plums through the stimulation of strong and healthy new growth. 

Everything You Need to Prune a Plum Tree

Before you prune a plum tree, gather the equipment you need for the job. You can reuse all these products to prune other types of fruit trees, so invest in quality pruning tools that will last. 

Here’s the equipment you need to prune a plum tree, along with my suggestion of where to buy it: 

Plum Tree Growth Habits

When you prune a plum tree, keep in mind that its growth habits are different than those of apples or grapes. Growth habits will depend on what type of plum tree you are growing. 

European Plum Tree Growth Habits

European plums fruit on spurs that are 2 years old, and up to decades old. Therefore, European plum varieties such as the cherry plum and yellow plums like the Mirabelle or Green Gage are very forgiving. Even if you cut back wood from the current season, they will still bloom and bear fruit. 

Japanese Plum Tree Growth Habits

Japanese plums fruit either on 1-year-old wood (much like peaches) or on fruit spurs. Varieties such as the Satsuma plum and Elephant Heart are very fruitful and up to half of the one-year-old shoots must be removed to prevent overproduction. Varieties like the Santa Rosa bear light crops and only one fourth to one third of new shoots should be pruned out.  

When to Prune a Plum Tree

Most fruit trees are pruned during dormant season. This is not true for plums. The best season to prune a plum tree is mid summer during full growth. Why not prune a plum tree in dormant season? The answer is that plum trees are prone to fungal infection, including the infamous Silver Leaf disease. Pruning in summer means there are fewer fungal spores in the air. Plus, the tree has more energy to resist fungal infections.

The exact time for pruning is variable but a good rule of thumb is to prune a plum tree in June or July. If you live in a humid climate in summer, however, late spring is likely the best time for you. Orchard growers in Minnesota, for example, find dormant pruning to work best since fungal spores abound during humid summers. Consider bee-safe fungicides to help keep disease in check.

It can seem wrong to prune off branches and shoots with fruit on them, but resist the urge to leave the tree unpruned. There will be plenty of plums left! 

However, there are a few times when dormant pruning is the better choice.

Dormant pruning is acceptable in the case of limb breakage or at planting time. 

Broken branches should be removed as soon as possible, even in winter. It is better to make a clean cut and cover it with a wound paint than leave a jagged wound in the tree. 

Newly planted trees should always be pruned for the purposes of tree training. You want to start growing the desired tree form right away. Pruning at planting time is always necessary for pruning whips, but some suppliers will prune larger trees ahead of delivery. To minimize risk of infection when you prune a plum tree at planting, keep these tips in mind: 

Fruit Thinning

While fruit thinning is not specifically considered a pruning task, it may be necessary for the production of quality fruit later on.  Complete your annual pruning before you thin the plums, and don’t remove flowers from bloom in spring. Summer pruning will remove fruit-bearing stems, which may be all that is needed. 

Why might fruit thinning be used for plum trees? A heavy crop of plums will weigh down even strong scaffold limbs. Furthermore, fruit quality is higher when fruit trees can concentrate sun energy collected by leaves into fewer maturing plums. 

Plum trees are known for their biennial bearing. They will produce a bumper crop of plums one year and then take a year off to store up energy and grow. Proper pruning and fruit thinning can help even out fruit production year to year. 

Here are the steps for proper fruit thinning: 

How to Prune a Plum Tree

You’ll use a different pruning method for each main type of plum.  Japanese plum trees and European plum trees are the most common varieties of plums. Because these trees grow differently, they do best with different shapes. 

Before you start pruning, keep two things in mind. First, always prune a healthy bud in the direction you want new growth, which is usually upright and outward. Make clean pruning cuts for healthy stubs.

Second, carefully select scaffold limbs as the framework of your tree. Scaffold limbs should ideally be at a 45 degree angle to the tree. Branches with narrow crotch angles can split off the mature tree under a load of plums. 

How to Prune Pyramid Plum Trees

If you’ve bought a pyramid plum, pruning will look a little different for these small plants. Fan training is a popular method to spread out the lateral branches of a short tree among horizontal wires. This makes the tree a pretty addition to landscape, and makes tree maintenance easy.

Here’s the process to prune a pyramid plum tree:

  1. In the first year, cut a new tree to about 2 feet above soil level a, right above a bud. Make sure there are at least four buds below the cut.
  2. In the second year, cut the main stem back about 12-20 inches. Lateral shoots will have grown from the buds you left the previous season. Prune all these lateral shoots to a bud, about 10 inches long.
  3. If you’re using a fan training system, remove any branches to the front or back of your central leader and tie lateral branches to your horizontal wires.
  4. Prune the mature pyramid plum by cutting back the central leader 12-20 inches to control height, and prune lateral branches back as necessary.
  5. As always, remove dead, diseased, or crossing branches.

How to Prune a Japanese Plum Tree

Japanese plum trees should be pruned to a vase shape. This means you’ll have scaffold limbs pointing out from around a central trunk with an open center. 

Here’s the step-by-step process to prune a plum tree of any Japanese variety: 

  1. The first year, you’ll have a pruning whip or young tree that basically looks like a stick with buds. Prune the stem back to two or three feet above the ground. After the branches have grown a few inches, choose vigorous shoots as lateral branches of your scaffold whorl. Lateral branches should be evenly spaced around the tree. 
  2. The first two or three years, cut back the scaffold whorl to 1 bud at the top and 2 buds at the bottom. 
  3. Prune out diseased material or damaged wood, and crossing branches. Make clean cuts. 
  4. Starting at the lowest limb, cut off suckers, water sprouts, and any shoots or stems growing in towards the center of the tree or on the trunk below the scaffold limbs. Also remove any secondary growth on the scaffold limbs within half a foot from the trunk. Leave upright shoots that are directed outward. 
  5. Cut off one half to one third of one-year-old shoots from the previous season to avoid overproduction of fruit. 
  6. Cut back scaffold limbs and upright limbs to a manageable height. Non-dwarf plum trees can grow twenty to thirty feet tall, so cut back tree height so you can pick plums. Plus, this activates phytohormones that will encourage fruit growth in the lower tree branches. 

How to Prune a European Plum Tree

European plum trees should be pruned to a central leader shape. In a central leader pruning system, scaffold branches surround a single upright branch that is an extension of the trunk. In the summer, you’ll notice the tree canopy forms a pyramid shape. 

Here’s the step-by-step process to prune a plum tree of any European variety: 

  1. The first year, cut back a pruning whip to 28-36 inches above the ground. Choose an upright branch as the central leader, and a few evenly spaced branches to form the scaffold whorl. 
  2. In the second and third years, choose strong and evenly spaced lateral shoots to become more scaffold branches. Keep these lateral branches cut back to about 10 inches, or 2 buds. This concentrates growth into the central leader. 
  3. In the first two or three years, cut the scaffold whorl branches at the top of the tree to one bud, and the bottom branches to two buds.  
  4. After three or four years the tree will likely be growing tall. Prune back the trunk 12 – 20 inches at a bud each year so fruit and vegetative buds concentrate in the bottom tree branches. 
  5. Every year, cut out dead, diseased, or damaged branches. Also remove unproductive shoots and any crossing branches. 
  6. Cut off suckers and watersprouts at their source. 
  7. If the tree is still too tall or bushy, cut out old growth and secondary branches that grow inwards. Upright branches can be trimmed in length. 

Tips for Pruning a Plum Tree

If the step-by-step pruning process didn’t answer all your questions about how to prune a plum tree, check out some of the common concerns below. No matter what type of tree you have, these pruning hints will help you troubleshoot. 

How should I prune an overgrown plum tree?

An overgrown plum tree can seem like an intimidating bunch of branches and sticks. It is a major pruning job, but don’t worry! Within a few years you can detangle your tree and get it to a manageable height.  

Here are five steps for pruning an overgrown plum tree: 

  1. Remove crossing or dead branches and diseased limbs. 
  2. Thin out the tree. Keep in mind the proper shape you are going for. Cut out excess lateral growth and any stems directed inwards. 
  3. Can you see through the tree yet? If not, thin it out some more. 
  4. Prune lower branches to be parallel with the ground and upwards facing. 
  5. Cut tall branches down in height so fruit is produced in a reachable location. 

Why does my plum tree not have fruit? 

There are five factors that might lead to a fruitless plum tree. The good news is that most of these problems are easy to fix! 

  1. Your tree might need a cross-pollinating variety. Look up whether your variety needs a pollinator, and if so, plant another compatible plum tree within 50 to 75 feet.
  2. Do you have a bird problem? If birds are eating your plums, wrap the tree in bird netting. This shouldn’t affect light levels or air circulation as long as you choose a netting that isn’t mesh.  
  3. Plum trees can bear fruit biennially, with a huge crop one year and few plums the next. Prune a plum tree properly to thin out the fruit for more even production. Fertilize your tree to ensure it is getting all the nutrients it needs to bear fruit each year. 
  4. The flower buds on your tree may have experienced freeze damage. This happens to the best fruit growers. Next year, if the temperature is going to drop below 32 degrees Fahrenheit, wrap a light cloth or a black plastic sheet over the tree to make a tent that will keep it warm. 
  5. Does the tree get enough sunlight? Plum trees need sun to produce fruit. If the tree is still young, you might be able to move it. If not, plant a new tree. 

Should I prune a plum tree if it might be diseased? 

Fungus and bacteria are some of the worst pests that can plague a plum tree. Bacterial canker, leaf spot, Silver Leaf fungus, and other diseases can ravage a plum tree. The best way to manage these diseases is to remove unhealthy branches immediately, and carefully choose the time you prune.  Inform yourself on plum tree diseases!

If fungal diseases plague your plum tree, remove diseased limbs and try pruning at a different time of year. Dormant pruning or summer pruning might be the right choice depending on which season is drier where you live. 

How do I choose the right pruning angle for scaffold limbs? 

Scaffold limbs should be at a 10 o’clock angle (about 45 degrees). As mentioned earlier, a sharper crotch angle will be prone to breakage, and a flat horizontal limb can drag fruit on the ground. 

Now You Know How to Prune a Plum Tree!

Learning how to prune a plum tree is a simple, necessary, and rewarding experience. Just remember the shape you should aim for.

Excited for more plum content? Then check out our plum trees page for the latest growing tips, care guides, recipes, and more!

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Pruning Plum Trees - Stark Bro's

Pruning is a very important part of proper fruit tree care, but many people find the task overwhelming. It doesn’t have to be! Keep these things in mind:

NOTE: This is part 8 in a series of 11 articles. For a complete background on how to grow plum trees, we recommend starting from the beginning.

Survival

When your tree is dug up from our fields to be shipped to you, the root ball loses many of its tiny feeder roots, which are needed to absorb moisture and nutrients. Pruning helps balance the top growth of your tree with the root system, giving the roots time to re-establish in your yard before spring growth.

When your Stark Bro’s bare root tree arrives, our professionals have already pre-pruned your tree for you. Because of this, you DO NOT need to prune them again when you plant. The only pruning done at this time would be any broken branches or roots.

Plan to prune your fruit trees during every dormant season. In Zone 6 and farther north, you should wait until late winter. A good reference book, such as Pruning Made Easy, can be invaluable for answering questions and guiding you through the pruning process.

Stimulation

Shaping

Pruning Tips from the pros:

10 o’clock pruning angle.

Pruning to a bud.

Prune For Success

Fruit trees develop better if they’re pruned at the right times in the right ways. Here’s how:

Help the tree form a strong framework.

Remove weak, diseased, injured or narrow-angle branches, the weaker of any crossing or interfering branches, and one branch of forked limbs. Also remove upright branches and any that sweep back toward the center of tree. You want to keep your tree from becoming too thick and crowded; some thinning is necessary to permit light to enter the tree and to keep its height reasonable. All these objectives promote improved bearing, which is your overall aim. You’ll be pleased with the results.

Prune Japanese Plum Trees to a Vase Shape.

Select and maintain three to five main scaffold limbs arising from the trunk to control the shape of the tree. These limbs should point in different directions and originate no less than 18” and no more than 36” from the ground, balancing growth evenly between the scaffold limbs. Those branches remaining in the center above the primary scaffold branches or any growth below the scaffold branches should be cut off. Any growth arising on scaffold branches within 6” of the trunk should be removed.

If for some reason the primary scaffold branches could not be selected the previous season, they may be chosen at this time. All branches above or below the scaffold branches should be removed. Avoid cutting (heading) the main scaffold branches unless necessary to maintain balance in the tree. If one scaffold branch dominates the tree, it should be headed back to a size proportionate with the others. It is necessary to have all scaffold branches growing at approximately the same rate to maintain a well-balanced tree.

Prune European Plum Trees to a Central Leader Shape.

European Plum trees do best when pruned and trained to a central leader tree. This type of tree has a pyramidal shape with a single upright leader limb as its highest point. This leader is the newest extension of a long, upright growing trunk from which all lateral branches arise. As with all strong growing branches, the leader should be headed at approximately 24-30” above the highest set of scaffolds branches. The uppermost bud on the leader produces a vigorous new leader, and no other shoot should be allowed to grow taller. Lateral limbs should be selected from shoots growing out from the central leader. These should be spaced vertically 4-6” apart, have growth that is more horizontal than vertical and point in different compass directions from the trunk. Any unbranched lateral branches should be headed back by approximately ¼ of their length to encourage side branches and to stiffen lateral branches. All laterals should have a wide branch angle.

Pruning Whips (Unbranched Trees)

Prune back to 28-36” above the ground at planting time. After the new branches have grown 3-5”, select a shoot to become the leader and scaffold limbs.

Off-season pruning

Sometimes pruning needs to be done even when the season isn’t the best. If a branch is broken by the wind or by a heavy load of fruit, emergency treatment is necessary. Prune back the ragged edges; making a smooth cut that leaves no stubby stump. Fast-growing “water sprouts” can be removed as soon as you see them rather than waiting until winter.

Fruit Thinning

There are several reasons to thin fruit:

Home gardeners thin fruit trees by hand. During May and June, many fruit trees will drop or abort fruit. This is a natural process that allows the tree to mature the crop load.
Trees may bear biannually, that is bear fruit every other year, bear heavy one year, then light the next year. Thin the heavy crop to correct bearing habit.

Japanese Plum Trees

The best time to thin Japanese plum trees is when the fruit is large enough to be easily picked. Space plums 4 to 6 inches apart on the branch and break up clusters.

Proper plum cutting - tips for beginners (diagrams, photos, videos)

The formation of a plum crown is not easy and very important. If the tree is not pruned correctly, the harvest will be poor. To prevent this from happening, find out how and when to prune plums in the garden.

Pruning and shaping of plums is carried out to increase fruiting. A thickened crown negatively affects the condition of the plant. The tree becomes sensitive to cold, in winter it risks freezing. Excess branches create a shadow and thus prevent the proper formation of fruits.

Young plums are pruned for the first time at the moment of planting, after which they are done regularly throughout the life of the plant. At the same time, the crown is formed up to about 15 years, and then only dry and diseased branches are removed, young shoots are not touched. Then the tree bears fruit well even in old age.

Plum pruning in spring

The most important pruning of the plant is in the spring. The tree is pruned in late March - early April, when the frosts have already passed, but the buds of the plant have not yet woken up and sap flow has not begun. In the spring, all frozen, damaged and improperly growing (inside the crown) branches are cut into the ring, and the crown is thinned out and the growth of the previous year is shortened by 1/3. It is on these shoots that the plum will bear fruit.

Plum pruning scheme in spring

In the southern regions, you can start pruning plums in late February - early March, but the air temperature should not be lower than 10°C.

How to properly remove unwanted branches from a tree in spring is shown in a very informative video of plum pruning.

During the first 5 years, a sparse-tiered crown is formed. In the first year, a trunk zone is measured on a seedling (40-60 cm from the ground), 6-7 more buds are counted above it and the top is cut off. In the second year, the first tier is formed from the buds located above the trunk. 2-4 well-located lower shoots are left on the tree, extending from the trunk at an angle of at least 60 degrees. All shoots that appear in the trunk area are regularly cut into a ring.

A year or two later, a second tier is laid above the first tier, consisting of 1-2 branches (at a height of 20-30 cm from the upper branch of the first tier). If necessary, a third tier of 1-2 branches is also formed above.

It is also possible to shape the crown into a bowl. At the same time, 3-4 main branches are left, which are located relative to the trunk at an angle of 60-90 degrees at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground. The central conductor is cut out during this shaping.

Plum pruning is carried out with a sharp pruner, and all cuts are treated with garden pitch.

Summer pruning of plums

Pruning of plums in summer is carried out when planting a seedling. In this case, the main trunk (central conductor) is cut by 1/3, and the side branches are shortened by 2/3.

Mature plants are pruned in June-July. Summer pruning is predominantly sanitary in nature: branches are removed that have frozen during the winter, but were not recognized as damaged during spring pruning. Now, when flowers and fruits have not formed on these shoots, they can be safely cut out.

Also, in summer, young, strictly vertical shoots are cut into a ring (you can break them off with your hands) and branches, on which signs of disease have appeared.

And shoots growing horizontally are left.

Cuts of young shoots heal quickly, so they do not need to be covered with garden pitch.

How to prune a plum in the summer, see the following video:

Plum pruning in autumn

The tree is pruned in mid-September - early October (after leaf fall) so that it has time to prepare for wintering. Long and fast-growing branches are shortened by a third so that they do not break under the weight of snow and gusty winds. If necessary, you can shorten the top of the tree. All damaged and broken shoots are also cut out, since they are more susceptible to frost than others. In addition, dry and diseased branches are pruned at the old plum at this time.

All plum shoots removed in autumn should be burned, because dangerous pests can settle in them for the winter.

In regions with mild winters, not only sanitary, but also formative pruning can be carried out in autumn. However, in the unstable climate of the middle zone, it is better to postpone this matter until spring.

Peculiarities of pruning an old plum tree

When new shoots stop growing on an old tree, old skeletal branches are cut down in early spring, and the places of cuts are carefully cleaned and covered with garden pitch. New shoots soon form at the cut site, of which only 3 or 4 of the strongest are left, the rest are removed in the middle of summer.

Please note: It is not recommended to prune a large number of old branches at the same time. Otherwise, the tree will not survive such severe stress and will die. Anti-aging pruning is best stretched for 2-3 years.

Columnar plum pruning

The columnar plum has a compact crown. The fruits on such a tree do not grow on spreading branches, but along the trunk, so the side shoots are useless. They are pruned annually.

At the same time, it is important to completely preserve the central conductor of the tree; it is not touched at all. If the top of the main shoot freezes, then additional shoots (two or three) will grow in this place over time. In this case, one, the most developed, is left, and the rest are removed.

To get a good harvest of fruits, you need not only to cut the plum correctly, but also to properly care for the tree throughout the year. Read about the intricacies of caring for this plant in the article Growing plums in the garden - all about planting, watering, fertilizing and processing.

Pruning and shaping a plum tree

Plum pruning in the garden is a necessary activity to get good yields. Plum trees in the garden with natural growth (without pruning) tend to form a large number of branches that are prone to breaks and frost holes, and as a result, the tree grows heavily and its productivity drops. Therefore, gardeners need to deal with trimming and plum shaping . It is especially important to form a plum tree in the first years of growth. Avoid excessive thickening.

Plum trees are best grown in the form of a dwarf pyramid. All wounds caused during pruning must be carefully covered with garden pitch or putty prepared according to a special recipe.

When to trim a plum

Often summer residents do not know when to cut plum plantings: in spring or autumn? Experienced gardeners recommend:

Prune plums preferably in spring. Summer pruning is reduced to plucking thickening shoots, and autumn pruning is only sanitary.

Cut branches heal best in the first half of summer. If, however, cutting plum branches is carried out in the middle of summer or in autumn, then the tree will go into winter with an "open" wound. And next season, at the place of the cut, gum flow may begin or a frost hole may form.

If the winter turned out to be frosty, then the spring pruning can be slightly shifted by a couple of weeks, so you will know exactly which branches on your plum tree are frozen.

Spring pruning of plums is also preferable because the tree expends energy on the formation of new strong growths, the laying of a larger number of flower buds. The fruits obtained from the formed tree will be larger and better than from the launched one.

Remember! All sections on the drain must be covered with garden pitch or special home putty.

Plum pruning in the first year

Planting a seedling

Cutting plum seedlings immediately upon planting is not recommended. In the spring, plant an annual seedling with side shoots. Tie it to a high support (the support is installed when planting a seedling). And postpone the initial pruning until March.

Pruning plum seedlings in March

As soon as the buds on your plum seedling start to wake up (this period falls around the middle of March) start pruning:

The illustration shows how to trim the branches of a plum seedling.

July - summer pruning of plums of the first year

Many novice summer residents consider it important to buy and plant a seedling, or cut it off a little during planting, but this is a big mistake. Summer is not the time to sit back!

In the first summer, towards the end of July, one more pruning is necessary: ​​

The picture shows how to lightly prune a 1 year old plum tree.

Plum pruning for the second year

The second year is no less important for the formation of the plum crown. As soon as time and weather permits, come to the garden and inspect your plums.

Spring plum pruning in March

Don't regret cutting too much. Such pruning will not allow the tree to quickly gain height.

Remember! It is easier to harvest from low trees.

July plum pruning

Do not forget about pruning plums in the summer.

Plum pruning for the third and subsequent years

From the third year, plum pruning becomes easier.

The main concern in plum pruning is shaping the top. Drastically prune or completely remove any improperly growing tree shoots. The plum should be in the shape of a pyramid with a wide base.

Learn more