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Garden insect repellents


6 bug sprays for plants |

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While insects are a valuable part of our gardens' ecosystems, sometimes they end up tucking into our vegetable harvests or eating their way through our flower buds before they bloom. 

These moments can have us reaching for the insecticides. However, filled with toxic chemicals, commercial insecticides often stand at odds with the sustainable garden ideas that we want our plots to embody.

This is where homemade insect sprays and deterrents come into their own. Created from items you would find in your store cupboard, they are quick and effective ways to ward bugs off your prized plants. 

‘Homemade garlic, nettle, soap, tomato and basil sprays are effective against aphids, mites and thrips. The aim is not to kill off all the insects in your garden, but rather aim for a healthy ecosystem,’ says garden expert Leigh Clapp.

Bug sprays – 6 homemade recipes for plants

Homemade bug sprays should only be used as a short term solution – at the same time as treating pests, think of adding other plants to your garden that will encourage insects and animals that prey on the problem bug.  

‘Disaster-proof your garden through plant diversity. The wider the range of plants, the less they are plagued by pests, so that if a disease or pest occurs only a limited number of susceptible plants will be affected,’ continues Leigh. 

For example, if you want to get rid of slugs, can you attract more birds? If you need to get rid of aphids, could you plant angelica, fennel and dill nearby to attract ladybirds? There are lots of different companion planting ideas that will help you to reduce pests in your plot. By creating a balanced garden, you will find that you have less and less need for bug sprays. 

Before using any of these bug sprays on your plants, always do a patch-test. Spray a small amount onto a few leaves of the plant and wait 24 hours to see if there is any damage. Avoid using any foliar sprays during the heat of the day as the exposure to the sun can cause leaf burn. 

1. Insecticidal soap

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A popular bug spray for treating a wide range of pests, homemade insecticidal soap, consists of soap, oil and water. Homemade insecticidal soap is often the first port of call for many gardeners as the ingredients are all store cupboard essentials. 

To create insecticidal soap combine one cup of vegetable oil with one tablespoon of dishwashing soap or pure Castile liquid soap. For this method, as well as any others that call for dishwashing soap, avoid those that contain a degreaser or bleach as these can cause more harm than good. Use this oil and soap mixture as a concentrate and dilute one teaspoon with two cups of warm water into a spray bottle. Once mixed with water, the solution’s efficacy will only last for a day. 

Insecticidal soap is one of the best ways of getting rid of aphids, as well as lacebugs, leafhoppers, mealybugs and thrips.

2. Neem oil bug spray

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An organic insecticide, neem oil has seen a rise in popularity as a method to treat everything from insects through to fungi. 

‘Neem oil has been used in India for thousands of years and is a trusted method to keep on top of pests, without any of the nasties,’ explains John Maree, co-owner of OxyPlants . ‘A spray of Neem oil on the tops and undersides of your plant’s leaves will help remove several pests, including mites, whitefly, aphids, thrip, and mealybugs, at every stage in their life cycle. Using neem oil also helps to get rid of powdery mildew, too.’

To use neem oil as a homemade bug spray mix one to two tablespoons of pure, cold-pressed neem oil with a gallon of water. You can also add one to two teaspoons of dish soap to the mix to help the neem oil adhere to the plants. 

Alternatively, you can use neem oil as a root soak to treat root rot. Mix one gallon of water with two tablespoons of neem oil and one teaspoons of pure Castile liquid soap (to help the neem oil adhere). Apply a small amount as a test and wait 24 hours. If all is well, then apply two or three cups to the soil around the plant, then continue the treatment as a replacement to the watering cycle. 

A benefit of using neem oil over other pesticides is that it doesn't harm birds, pets or beneficial insects. This is because neem oil gets absorbed into the plant’s tissue rather than just sitting on the surface and so only affects any insects that ingest the plant. 

3. Vinegar spray

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It seems that there is no end to the abilities of vinegar, especially when you take into account the numerous ways of cleaning with vinegar, but did you know that it can also be used as a bug spray?

One of the easiest homemade bug sprays, simply mix one cup of white vinegar with three cups of water. You can also add half a teaspoon of dishwashing soap to help the solution adhere. Shake thoroughly and apply to the affected areas.

The acetic acid in the vinegar will treat a wide range of garden pests but it requires contact. If you have whitefly eggs be sure to spray under the leaves. Furthermore, white vinegar has a strong odor which has been reported to repel ants and other scent driven pests.

'If you are wanting to treat houseplants with a vinegar spray, try adding a few drops of essential oil or some slices of lemon peel or rosemary sprigs to help temper the vinegar smell,' advises Period Living editor Melanie Griffiths.

4. Garlic spray

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You may have heard that onions and garlic make good companion plants as the scent of their foliage helps to repel aphids, slugs and carrot fly. This spray takes it to the next level. 

‘Puree two garlic bulbs with one tablespoon of vegetable oil, let it sit overnight, strain, add one teaspoon of mild liquid soap and four cups of water to fill the spray container,’ recommends Leigh Clapp. 

Store this mixture in the fridge until needed. In the evening, spray both sides of the leaves with the spray and then reapply every few days when your plants are suffering with infestation. Alternatively, use every one to two weeks as a deterrent. 

If you want to be even more sustainable, why not learn how to grow garlic so that you can have an endless supply of garlic spray – plus extra cloves that you can add to your favorite meals?

5. Tomato leaf spray

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If you’ve ever tried growing tomatoes, you will be familiar with the characteristic scent of their leaves, but did you know that these leaves contain a compound called alkaloid which can be used to create a spray that is toxic to aphids and mites? To make a tomato leaf spray, mix equal quantities of chopped up tomato leaf with water and leave to steep overnight. Let this steep overnight, before straining into a spray bottle and applying to the plant’s leaves.

This is a great way to recycle tomato leaves once you've pruned them – you can learn how to prune tomato plants for a maximum yield.

6. Cinnamon spray

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If you’ve ever grown plants in pots, you’ll be familiar with the problem of stray mushrooms. However, this can be easily resolve with a simple cinnamon spray. Mix two teaspoons cinnamon powder into four cups of warm water. Allow this to steep overnight and then strain through a coffee filter and then pour into a spray bottle. Mist the potting soil and plants. 

Cinnamon spray is also reported to be an effective treatment to get rid of ants. If you have an ant problem in your pots or want to keep ants away from dining or patio areas, try applying cinnamon oil or powdered cinnamon to create an effective barrier.

What is a natural bug killer for plants?

Vinegar is a really effective natural bug killer for plants. Dilute it 1:1 with water in a spray bottle and spray it over and under the leaves of affected plants. You can also use it around the house to deter bugs inside; the vinegary smell will quickly dissipate.

You can also use a hydrogen peroxide and water solution, which is great when trying to get rid of bugs from houseplant soil. 

Which homemade bug spray is best for repelling mosquitoes?

The best homemade bug sprays for repelling mosquitoes are those with a strong smell that mosquitoes hate. Other than citronella, which you are probably already familiar with as a mosquito repellent, they include the following essential oils: 

Having graduated with a first class degree in English Literature four years ago, Holly started her career as a features writer and sub-editor at Period Living magazine, Homes & Gardens' sister title. Working on Period Living brought with it insight into the complexities of owning and caring for period homes, from interior decorating through to choosing the right windows and the challenges of extending. This has led to a passion for traditional interiors, particularly the country-look. Writing for the Homes & Gardens website as a content editor, alongside regular features for Period Living and Country Homes & Interiors magazines, has enabled her to broaden her writing to incorporate her interests in gardening, wildlife and nature. 

Plants That Repel Insects - 10 Options for the Yard

Lavender

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A soothing favorite for centuries, lavender repels fleas, moths, mosquitoes, and many other insects. While oil extracted from the flowers makes an effective mosquito repellent, just the plant itself can ward off unwelcome insects. As you're arranging lavender plants around your outdoor seating areas, don't forget to position one close to a doorway to help prevent houseflies from entering.

Related: 9 Calming Colors for a Serene Home

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Chrysanthemums

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Bright blooms of chrysanthemums contain pyrethrum, which is frequently used in natural insect repellents and dog shampoo. The chemical can kill and repel ants, ticks, fleas, spider mites, roaches, Japanese beetles, and even bed bugs. This characteristic makes it a popular insect-repelling companion plant in vegetable gardens, but pots brimming with colorful mums are also a welcome addition to any outdoor seating areas.

Related: 9 Creative Ways to Build an Outdoor Hangout

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Basil

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Delicious to eat, basil also repels mosquitoes and houseflies. Place containers of basil around outdoor areas where you like to relax. You can even use it to make your own natural insect repellent by pouring four ounces of boiling water into a container with a generous handful of leaves and stems. Let the mixture steep for several hours, strain, and then add four ounces of cheap vodka. Pour the mix into a spray bottle to spritz on whenever you're outdoors.

Related: The 12-Inch Farm—10 Foods You Can Grow in Containers

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Nasturtiums

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Nasturtiums have a long-standing reputation as a powerful companion plant, because they release an airborne chemical that repels a variety of insects, including aphids and whiteflies. Whether you plant nasturtiums in the vegetable garden, in containers around the patio, or along flower beds, this easy-to-grow annual will protect itself, other plants, and you from unwanted visitors.

Related: The Good Guys—8 Beneficial Bugs for Your Garden

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Lemongrass

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Citronella oil—known for its use in insect-repelling patio candles—comes from the lemongrass plant, so it’s not surprising that the ornamental grass itself can deter mosquitoes with its strong fragrance. To double up on pest-fighting abilities, plant lemongrass around the patio and use citronella candles when the bugs are especially bad. Grown as an annual, this grass reaches up to four feet tall during the season and does quite well in containers.

Related: 10 Time-Tested Tricks for a Bug-Free Backyard

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Marigolds

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Mosquitoes and aphids hate the smell of marigolds, but these cheerful flowers are a favorite with gardeners. Grown as an annual in most gardening zones, marigolds prefer full sun and well-drained soil. (Beware: If you plant them in the shade, marigolds become prone to powdery mildew.) Place them strategically in your vegetable garden or in pots around the patio to ward off invading insects.

Related: 10 Easy-to-Grow Vegetables for Beginning Gardeners

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Lemon Thyme

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This hardy herb will repel mosquitoes only when you bruise its leaves to release the essential oils, but that takes no time at all! Simply station a few planters with lemon thyme around the patio and, when you’re sitting outside, offend hovering mosquitoes by crushing a few leaves on the plant to release the scent.  

Related: 7 Herbs That Clean House

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Mint

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The aromatic leaves, stems, and flowers of a mint plant repel mosquitoes. But keep this one confined to a pot—it spreads aggressively and could overtake your small garden. Instead, place planters brimming with mint around the patio to create a pest-free zone for your enjoyment. If you'd like, you can even make a natural insect repellent by mixing mint oil with apple cider vinegar and witch hazel. A light misting when you're outdoors will shoo irritating insects away.

Related: Pests, Be Gone! 10 Natural Ways to Make Your Home Critter-Free

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Petunias

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Not only are they pretty, with a sweet fragrance, but petunias also naturally catch a variety of insects, including Japanese beetles, aphids, leafhoppers, and many more. The cheerful plants have sticky hairs that actually trap insects, and the roots ultimately absorb the nutrients from the bodies of their prey. Although petunias prefer full sun, a bowl of these profuse bloomers will do quite well when placed on a shady patio table.

Related: The Invincible Yard—12 Ideas for Lazy Landscaping

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Rosemary

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This culinary favorite repels mosquitoes and other annoying insects whether the leaves are crushed or intact, so it makes a great addition to containers strategically placed around the garden. To make a rosemary insect repellent to-go, boil a bunch of leaves and stems in a quart of water for 30 minutes. Strain the liquid, pour it into a spray bottle, and store in the refrigerator until you're ready to mist it around.

Related: 10 No-Effort Plants for a Foolproof Landscape

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Heal everyone, heal: remedies for the health of garden plants

💣💣💣 BLACK FRIDAY IN GARSHINKA !

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1 year ago

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What work can be more peaceful and creative than gardening? However, even gardeners are faced with entire detachments of enemies that can cause irreparable harm to fruit, vegetable, berry and ornamental crops. Pests and diseases lie in wait for plantings at every turn, and in order to resist them, the gardener needs to acquire a whole arsenal of reliable and effective means that can protect crops.

Fertilizers

It is important to use mineral fertilizers with different compositions, and not just one of them: at different times of the year, plants need different nutrients. Nitrogen mineral fertilizer, which stimulates the set of green mass, is used at the beginning of the growing season, and fertilizers with phosphorus and potassium are applied in the middle and end of the season, contributing to better fruiting of plants and helping them prepare for a successful wintering. A complete mineral complex is in demand during the peak of the growing season. Fans of organic farming can focus on the use of compost, manure, biohumus, bird droppings.

Biostimulants

Often, gardeners resort to the use of drugs that can play the role of a kind of energy to accelerate the development of plants. Among these drugs are often called Epin or Zircon, among their advantages, experts indicate not only the acceleration of seed germination and rooting of seedlings, but also help plants in the formation of immunity and protect them from stress caused by the vagaries of the weather. To increase the chances of young plants for successful adaptation to new conditions, root formation stimulators help, worthy examples of which can be considered both Kornevin and Heteroauxin.

Pest control

Gardeners who have daily plant care are less dependent on chemicals to help get rid of unexpected flying or crawling guests. If you conduct a daily inspection of plantings and collect pests in a timely manner or wash them off with a stream of water, you can not turn to the achievements of modern chemical thought. However, care of the garden, carried out by visits only in their free time, requires the indispensable use of chemicals, and those that have different mechanisms of action on harmful insects.

Pest control products are divided into insecticides that act on insects and acaricides that target mites. Modern drugs may also have synergistic insecticidal properties.

The choice should be made in favor of innovative bio-based products that do not pose a threat to the life of insects that benefit the garden: bumblebees, butterflies and bees.

In the fight against aphids, caterpillars and other pests that do not have external protection, you can use drugs that directly fall on the pests and directly affect them. And to destroy insects that are protected by shells, scutes or wax-like shells, systemic preparations are used that have the ability to penetrate plant cells in order to later become an object of pest nutrition.

Anti fungus

Getting rid of fungal diseases is sometimes much more difficult than repelling pest attacks. Fungicides used to prevent and treat fungus come to the aid of the gardener. Like insecticides, fungicides are divided into contact and systemic.

The advantage of contact preparations can be considered their ability to protect plants from fungus without accumulation inside them. Commonly available contact fungicides such as blue vitriol and quicklime, which are part of the Bordeaux mixture, can be used without harm to plants throughout the growing season. When systemic preparations are used, they accumulate in plant tissues and subsequently suppress the activity of the fungus. You can also use complex fungicides that combine the principles of both systemic and contact effects. Such preparations are effective in soil treatment before planting cultivated plants.

Recently, biofungicides, which are considered environmentally safe, have become increasingly popular. These preparations are based on bacteria: biofungicides can be used at any stage of plant development, from dressing seeds and bulbs to foliar sprays during the growing season.

Quite often the causative agents of fungal diseases adapt to the drugs used, and in this regard it is necessary to prevent addiction to the chemical by alternating the agents used.

Medicines from the home medicine cabinet

Common medicines found in every home medicine cabinet can also be used as important preparations for the health of garden plants.

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how to get rid of folk remedies yourself

Types of ants

Several types of ants are found in the gardens and orchards of central Russia.

Red wood ant (Formica rufa)

Red wood ants live in the forest, but sometimes they also settle in summer cottages. Photo: Maciej Olszewski, globallookpress.com

These are the ones who build big anthills. They are medium in size, 7–14 mm long. Their chest and cheeks are reddish-red, the abdomen and head are black.

Most often they live in the forest, but sometimes they also settle in summer cottages, on the boundary between vegetable gardens. Their dwellings reach a height of half a meter or more. They are built from twigs, needles and other plant material. In a large anthill, there may be several hundred thousand individuals, and sometimes there are a million or more!

Despite the fact that everyone has seen and knows these ants, in some regions they are already becoming a rarity. The species is already listed in the Red Books of Moscow, Voronezh, Kostroma, Lipetsk, Novgorod and Chelyabinsk regions.

What is useful. We know from school that these insects are forest nurses. Scientists confirm: red forest ants destroy a lot of pests (1). Of course, not only in the forest, but also in the garden. They willingly eat caterpillars of the pine sawfly, caterpillars of needle-eating butterflies and other uninvited "aliens". One large anthill is able to clear a quarter of a hectare of forest or garden from pests. That is why in Europe red forest ants are artificially resettled.

In addition, red forest ants improve the soil. It is reliably known that in the places where the ant family lives, the earth contains 10 times more phosphorus and 2 times more potassium. And in a soluble form - so these nutrients are better absorbed by plants.

How harmful. However, every medal has a reverse side. Yes, yes, these insects can do harm.

Firstly, they, like other ants, love to feast on honeydew - the sweet secretions of aphids. During the season, the colony collects 450–500 kg of honeydew! They graze aphids, protect them from enemies and actively breed them, dragging them to neighboring plants. For gardeners, this is a big problem. But it is exacerbated by the fact that aphids, which are bred by ants, are often carriers of plant viruses (2).

Second, red wood ants disperse the seeds of wild plants. This is good for the forest, but bad for the garden, because wild plants are weeds.

And yet, the benefits of the red wood ant are much greater, and problems with aphids and weeds are easily solved.

Black garden ant (Lasius niger)

Black garden ant destroys pests. Photo: A. Schulte, globallookpress. com

Another name for it is black lasium. This species lives on a vast territory - from Portugal and England to the central part of Siberia and Mongolia. It is he who is most often found in the gardens of the middle lane. Sometimes settles even in cities. Colonies are usually small, 4000–7000 individuals. In rare cases, it can be up to 50,000.

Black ants are small, about 5 mm long. They build anthills underground, in the roots of plants. Recognizing these nests is easy - they look like a small pile of loose earth with a hole in the middle. They willingly settle in gardens, vegetable gardens and flower beds, especially if there are natural decorative elements - stones and driftwood. It is under them or next to them that they most often equip their nests.

What is useful. Like many other types of ants, the black garden ant destroys pests. But, as a rule, not all, but only the smallest.

How harmful. If you see an aphid colony on a tree, you can be sure that there will also be an abundance of black ants, which also like to feed on aphid secretions, protect it and breed it. They are the main carriers of aphids in the garden. But not only her - black ants love the excretion of worms, so the invasion of these pests is also guaranteed to you.

Black Lasius also likes strawberries, so expect bitten sides of berries.

Pale-legged garden ant (Lasius alienus)

Pale-legged garden ants like to settle under stones. Photo: YouTube

He is also a brown lazi. Very small ants, only 2–4 mm long. Color - from light to dark brown. Colonies live underground, and it is very difficult to find an anthill - these insects do not make any mounds. Unlike its counterpart, the black ant, it prefers more open areas - illuminated and well warmed up: glades, sandy soils, coastal dunes, steppe meadows. Avoids wet soils. He loves to nest under rocks.

What is useful. Pale-footed ants are omnivores, so pests are bound to be in their diet.

How harmful. This is another honeydew lover, he also breeds aphids and mealybugs. Can nibble on strawberries.

Red Myrmica (Myrmica rubra)

Myrmica is a predator that preys on small insects on the soil surface and in leaf litter. Photo: A. Schulte, globallookpress.com

Small ants about 5 mm long. Yellow or light brown. Like black ants, they build their nests in the soil, between the roots of plants. They like to settle under stones, snags, fallen trees. They live throughout Europe, in Russia - up to Transbaikalia. They are competitors of black garden ants.

Myrmica is a predator that preys on small insects on the soil surface and in fallen leaves. These ants paralyze their victims with a poisonous sting. They also scare away potential enemies, which may turn out to be a summer resident. If you sat on the ground and suddenly felt a sharp pain, you must have been bitten by a red myrmica. These ants have incredibly painful stings! A strong burning sensation immediately occurs, and the skin becomes covered with a red rash.

Benefits of . This species is omnivorous, destroys garden and garden pests.

How harmful is . Also a fan of aphid secretions, therefore he is able to breed it. And also worms. But it does so infrequently. The most unpleasant thing is myrmica bites.

Black wood borer ant (Camponotus vagus)

These are forest ants that live in clearings, old clearings and forest edges. Photo: F. Hecker, globallookpress.com

You can't confuse them with other ants, because they are the largest - they reach 1.5 cm in length. And they are completely black. The species is found throughout Europe, in Russia - up to Altai. In some regions it is under protection - it is included in the Red Books of the Vladimir and Vologda regions.

These are forest ants, they live in clearings, old clearings and forest edges. Anthills are arranged in wood residues and stumps. But if there is old firewood or sawn trees on the garden plot, they can also settle next to people. The colony can reach 4,000 individuals.

What is useful. This species is omnivorous, destroying harmful insects. And best of all, he does not breed aphids! That is, it is practically harmless to the garden.

How harmful . May eat fruit, but rarely does so. So we can safely assume that it does not harm.

Pharaoh ant (Monomorium pharaonis)

In Europe, the first time pharaoh ants were discovered in 1828 in London. Photo: R. Koenig, globallookpress.com

Its official name is very beautiful, downright regal, but there is another - house ant. Yes, yes, these goosebumps run around your tables. They are small, only 1.5–2 mm long. Brown or yellowish.

And why is he pharaonic? The fact is that for the first time these tiny insects were found in the tombs of the Egyptian pharaohs - on mummies, where they penetrated in search of food. Here they were caught and handed over to the Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus for determination. He described this insect in 1758, called the pharaoh ant, and suggested that Egypt and adjacent regions of North Africa are its homeland.

Pharaoh ants were first discovered in Europe in 1828 in London. These insects happily settled under the stoves of fireplaces. In 1862 they were already found in Russia, in Kazan. They appeared in Moscow in 1889.

Now these ants live in houses on all continents, moving around the world with food and cargo on ships, planes, cars.

Dark, warm and damp places are preferred in houses. They willingly settle in the walls of houses, cracks in the floor and foundation, behind wallpaper, in boxes, folds of clothes and even equipment.

Pharaoh ant families can reach 350,000 individuals, but usually fluctuate within a few thousand. But even worse, they do not have a specific nest - the anthill is dispersed throughout the house in the form of small colonies. That is why it is very difficult to remove these insects. Another problem is that, unlike other types of ants, they do not hibernate.

How useful. I would like to attribute at least one valuable property to them, but there are none - only losses.

How harmful. They eat your food. But this is half the trouble. They can be carriers of dangerous infections. Imagine, at first they crawled along the dirty floor, looked into the trash can, and then climbed into your sugar bowl with dirty paws, walked on the bread and rummaged through the flour.

But that's not all. Since house ants are ubiquitous, they can easily crawl into the ear at night. Pleasant little.

How to get rid of ants forever

All we can do is to reduce the number of ants, but for this we need to fight them constantly. Photo: Valery Lukyanov, globallookpress.com

This is the dream of any summer resident, but, unfortunately, getting rid of ants will not work forever. In nature, all ecological niches must be occupied, and if there are no ants somewhere, be sure they will settle there soon. It's like with weeds: you can at least completely fill the area with herbicides, a week or two will pass, harmful plants will appear on it again - the seeds will be brought by the wind. And the ants will crawl on their own.

All we can do is to reduce their numbers, but for this we need to fight them constantly. You can use any available means, but, of course, chemical methods of protection help better.

How to properly remove an anthill from the garden

Anthill of red wood ants

Really large anthills are built by red wood ants. Although they carry aphids and weeds around the garden, the benefits from them are incomparably greater. This is just the case when it is better to leave the anthill. Besides, it's beautiful.

But if these ants seriously annoy you, then it probably makes sense to get rid of the dwelling of insects. But in no case do not destroy it! You can make it easier: collect the aerial part with a shovel into large dense plastic bags, tie them tightly with tape so that the insects cannot get out. Then dig a layer of earth under the anthill onto the bayonet of a shovel - there are also passages there. Pour the earth into the bag as well. Take or take the colony to the nearest forest. Dig a hole deep on the spade bayonet, pour in an earthen base, lightly tamp. Then pour the upper, above-ground part on top. It is not necessary to form a hill out of it, the insects themselves will equip their home. It is best to do this at sunset or at dawn, when the bulk of the insects are already inside.

If single ants remain in your area, they will leave on their own - they will not build a colony without a queen.

Underground anthills

It is almost impossible to get rid of them, because they are very branched and often form among garden plants. It is difficult to dig them out without damaging the landing. Prevention is important here: remove rotting trees, old woodpile, stumps and stones from the site - this is where ants like to settle.

However, if the anthill has just appeared and is still small, you can dig it out with a shovel, put it in a bucket, take it outside the site (preferably into the forest) and pour it out there.

Anthills inside the house

Pharaoh ants build them. And, as already mentioned, they do not have a concentrated hearth - the colony settles throughout the house, filling secluded places in small groups. Actually, your house is one big anthill. Here you have to fight directly with the insects themselves.

Folk remedies for ants

Folk remedies help when there are few insects. Photo: Patrick Pleu, globallookpress.com

If there are a lot of ants on the site, it is better not to waste time - use special preparations (more on them below). Folk remedies help when there are few insects.

Repellents

Herbs and condiments. It is believed that ants do not tolerate strong odors. Therefore, near the anthills, it is advised to lay out anise leaves, chopped tops of tomatoes and parsley, wormwood, garlic cloves (you can decompose sawdust mixed with garlic gruel) and cinnamon.

Garlic can be planted in strawberries.

Charcoal. Many insects do not like the smell of burnt wood - for them it is associated with forest fires. Crush the charcoal and sprinkle generously on the anthill and ant nests.

Invalid methods. Very often among the people's councils there are completely savage. For example, "pour the anthill with kerosene or carbolic acid."

Do you know what carbolic is? This is the old name for phenol. And phenol is incredibly toxic to animals, it is one of the most dangerous industrial pollutants. It is detrimental to many microorganisms.

Kerosene is not as toxic, but if used frequently and in large quantities, it can harm both people and the soil.

Ant repellant in the garden

The most important thing here is to keep the ants out of the trees - that's where they breed aphid colonies. There are three very reliable means.

Hemp oil. Treat the bases of trunks with it - ants are believed to avoid this smell.

Foil . Wrap the base of the barrel tightly with thin foam rubber, and on top of it with a strip of foil. It is slippery, ants cannot overcome such an obstacle. Foam rubber is needed so as not to injure the bark of a tree, especially if it is young. And on old trees, it will fill in the recesses in the bark so that insects cannot crawl under the foil.

Fly tape. The scheme is similar - foam rubber, on top of it - a tape. Ants trying to get to the aphid colony will simply stick and die.

Ant control in the garden

Ash. Sprinkle ash on anthills and places where ants gather - as mentioned above, they do not like the smell of burning. And for plants, ash is an excellent fertilizer.

Sweet sponge. Very simple but effective lure. Take an ordinary sponge for washing dishes, soak it in a sugar solution and put it in places where ants accumulate. When a lot of insects gather on it, dip the sponge in boiling water. Soak again with syrup and put back to the ants. And so several times.

Prohibited substances. In the garden, it is also often advised to use carbolic acid and kerosene, but it is unlikely that you in your right mind would want to eat vegetables watered with this muck.

But there is one more piece of bad advice: sprinkle salt on anthills and paths. Do not do this under any circumstances! Firstly, she will not scare them (pay attention to domestic ants that calmly crawl along the salt shaker). Secondly, high concentrations of salt will instantly kill all plants nearby.

Ant repellant in the house

The most important thing in the fight against domestic ants is to ensure the safety of people and animals.

Boric acid. It paralyzes the nervous system of insects, and soon they die. By the way, for this purpose it is also used in medicine - for removing lice, for example.

To fight ants, add it to something sweet. For example: in 500 g of jam (raspberry, strawberry or cherry - ants love them especially), add 20 g of fresh yeast and 5 g of boric acid. Having tasted such a delicacy, most insects die on the second day.

You can soak a few pieces of sugar in acid and leave them in this state in the open.

But! Processed jam and sugar should be put in a place inaccessible to children and warn all household members that this is a poisoned bait! Boric acid is used for external use. If you eat it, you can get serious poisoning, and for children, a lethal outcome is not excluded at all.

Repellents. Fragrant herbs and spices such as elderberry, tomato leaves, wild mint, cloves, wormwood and garlic are believed to repel ants. It is enough to spread them near the products and insects will begin to bypass these places. And when they realize that they can’t get to food, they will leave the house.

Professional Ant Control

Professional Ant Control can be used to help get rid of ants. Photo: Konstantin Mikhailov, globallookpress.com

There are quite a lot of ant repellents on sale now, but, in fact, they contain only two substances: either diazinon or chlorpyrifos.

Diazinon blocks the production of an enzyme responsible for the nervous system of ants. In insects, convulsions begin, then paralysis and death. The advantage of the substance is that it also penetrates into plants, being easily absorbed by the roots. As a result, it protects them from being eaten by ants for 2-3 weeks.

Chlorpyrifos enters the body of insects through the respiratory system and paralyzes the nervous system. It stays in the soil for 110–120 days, and is effective against pests for about 1–2 months.

Preparations based on diazinon

All of them belong to the 3rd hazard class - a moderately hazardous substance (for humans). But they are not toxic to plants and are safe for soil microflora and earthworms.

Grom-2 (3). The drug in the form of granules is intended for the destruction of garden ants in the beds, in flower beds, under trees, in the blind areas of houses, as well as against soil houseflies on seedlings and indoor flowers. The drug is completely ready for use.

Pellets are introduced into anthills (to a depth of 2-3 cm) and places of accumulation. Consumption rate: 20–30 g per 10 sq. m. The death of ants and flies occurs in 1-2 days. A single application provides protection against insects for 2-3 months.

Medvetoks. The drug is intended for the destruction of ants and mole crickets. Represents granules of red color, ready to use. In addition to the active substance, the composition of the product includes aromatic and flavoring additives that attract insects, as well as plant components - they serve as food for pests.

The granules are brought directly into the anthill by 3 cm. It is better to lay out the poison in the evening. Consumption rate: 20 g per 10 sq. m. The bait remains active for 3 weeks. After 3 weeks, "Medvetoks" decomposes into components that are safe for the environment.

Re-treatment should be done after 1 month, when the offspring of the larvae appear, but the granules can be applied to the soil no later than 60 days before harvest.

Anteater. The preparation is in the form of an emulsion concentrate. Sold in vials (1 ml). The bottle is diluted in 10 liters of water. This amount is enough to destroy 25 anthills! Each ant colony is treated with the resulting solution, for which the soil around the anthills is dug up until clutches are found. This is very important, because if only worker ants die, the colony will quickly recover due to the fecundity of the female. The ruined anthill is carefully shed with the Anteater solution, and then again sprinkled with earth. Insecticide treatment is recommended in dry calm weather, in the morning (before 10:00) or in the evening (after 18:00) - at this time, almost all ants are in their nests.

The protective period is at least 3 weeks. After that, "Anteater" completely disintegrates in the soil into natural components.

" Ant" (3). The drug is in the form of granules. They bring it directly into anthills to a depth of 2-3 cm. Consumption rate: 20 g per 10 square meters. m. The death of ants and flies occurs in 3-5 days.

If necessary, anthills can be re-treated after 30 days.

Muratox . A broad-spectrum drug against ants, fleas, basement mosquito larvae. Available as an emulsion concentrate.

To kill insects, places of their accumulation and ways of movement (including in the blind areas of houses and on sidewalks) are watered in dry weather in the morning or evening with a freshly prepared working solution (1-2 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water). Before watering, you need to dig up the colony to the pupae, water thoroughly, sprinkle with earth. Consumption rate: 2-3 liters per 1 sq. m. prepared solution add 900 ml of water. The bait is poured into non-food containers (plastic and tin lids) and placed indoors on the paths of movement or penetration of ants. Baits can also be placed in greenhouses and greenhouses. Insects die for 3 days. The duration of action is 3-4 weeks.

"Muracid" . The drug is available in the form of an aqueous emulsion. In addition to the active substance, it contains food bait, the smell and taste of which attract ants.

The content of the capsule (1 ml) is diluted in 10 liters of water. The prepared solution is watered with anthills and the passages that insects have made in the soil. Processing is best done in dry weather, in the evening or in the morning, when all the insects are in the anthill. Consumption rate: for small anthills - 0.5 liters of solution, for large ones - 1 liter or more. After treatment, the ants die for 2 days. Efficiency lasts from 2 to 3 months.

Preparations based on chlorpyrifos

They belong to the 4th hazard class - low hazard to humans and animals.

Absolute . Available in the form of a gel. In just one application, it completely exterminates colonies of house and garden ants.

Lubricate the substrates with gel or squeeze out with a thin dotted line in the areas where ants appear. The length of the strips is 2 cm. With a large accumulation of insects, the strips are extended to 4 cm. Consumption rate: 25 g (1 tube) per room of 50 square meters. m.

To protect the lower floors, terraces and verandas from garden ants, the gel is applied along the walls inside and outside the building. After treatment, insects die within a day. The applied drug remains active for up to 1.5–2 months.

"Delicia". Preparation in the form of a granular powder. Can be used both outdoors and indoors. It can be applied in two ways.

Method #1. Sprinkle the powder in a thin layer on the paths of ants, near their nests. Cracks, seams and crevices should be sprinkled especially abundantly. Consumption rate: 10 g per sq. m.

The ants carry the powder to their nest, where it is eaten by the ant queen, the growing offspring and worker ants. As a result, the colony dies. In addition, it has a contact effect.

Method #2. The powder is diluted in water, mixing well. Cracks, seams, crevices and nests of ants are sprayed with a solution. You can arrange the diluted product in small flat containers. Packing 125 g is enough to prepare 6 liters of solution.

Combination preparation

It contains both active ingredients: diazinon and chlorpyrifos. They enhance each other's action and are able to remove insects even in the most neglected cases.

Great Warrior. Anti-ants and cockroaches. Available in the form of a gel. It is applied in a dotted line to habitats, accumulations or movements.

To kill house ants, apply the gel at 4 cm intervals between strips. Consumption rate: 1 pack (35 g) for an area of ​​50–75 sq. m. Insects die on the first day. You can re-treat the room no sooner than after 3-4 weeks.

To kill garden ants, apply dots or strips of gel to sheets of cardboard and place them on the ant "paths" and around the anthill.

To kill insects crawling onto the lower floors of houses and country houses, the gel is applied along the perimeter of the room with a dotted line: 2 cm of gel - 6 cm of the untreated surface. For the best effect, you need to process the premises, both along the inner perimeter and outside.

What to do if bitten by an ant

Ants living in temperate latitudes are not dangerous. As a poison, they use formic acid, the same one that many in childhood licked from sticks previously lowered into an anthill. That is, it can even be taken orally. But there are also unpleasant symptoms.

Redness and itching

The most that can happen if acid gets on the skin is slight itching and irritation at the bite site.

What to do. Itching goes away on its own after a few hours. To get rid of it faster, wipe the bite with vodka or any medicinal tincture with alcohol. You can make a compress with baking soda.

Allergy

Rare, but the consequences can be serious: swelling and blisters, severe and extensive redness of the skin with pain, nausea, shortness of breath, headache, loss of consciousness.

What to do. As soon as you notice the first signs of allergy, take any antihistamine. If the drug does not help, the condition worsens - immediately consult a doctor!

Topic

None of the beneficial insects eat ants. This is logical - the ants themselves are predators, there are many of them, they will not let themselves be offended. Moreover, they will not allow our useful assistants to destroy pests. For example, everyone knows that ants themselves breed colonies of aphids, graze them and protect them. Therefore, it is important to get rid of ants first. Here, too, there are safe ways.

  1. If you find an anthill in the area, sprinkle it generously with ashes or crushed charcoal. Many insects, including ants, do not like the smell of burning - they associate it with a fire.
  2. To prevent ants from climbing trees and settling aphids on them, wrap the base of the trunks with foil so that it fills all the depressions in the bark, carefully punch it in the shape of the trunk. Ants will not be able to overcome the slippery surface.
  3. Another option is to wrap fly tape around the bases of the trunks: any ants that try to climb the tree will stick to it.

Popular Questions and Answers

We asked several popular questions about ants in plot to agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova.

How to find an ant's nest

When it comes to domestic ants, it is useless to look for their nests. They are scattered throughout the house, in the most secluded places.

It is not necessary to look for anthills of red forest ants - they are large, they can be seen from afar.

Anthills in the soil can be identified by the accumulation of insects and small holes.

Where do ants come from

New colonies are founded by females (ant queens) - they have wings and are able to fly long distances.

The female makes a small nest, lays larvae, from which workers hatch. And they are already expanding and completing the anthill.

How to get rid of ants in a greenhouse?

There are no specific recommendations for greenhouses - they use the same methods as for ants in the garden.

But remember that folk remedies are not very effective, they can be used only when there are few ants. With a large population of the site, only chemicals will help.

How to effectively get rid of ants?

You won't be able to get rid of ants once and for all, they will appear again and again. And in order to achieve maximum effect in the fight against them, it is important to exterminate them constantly - this is an endless work, but there is no other way out. If not dealt with, they can cause significant damage to the crop.

How to quickly get rid of ants?

The fastest way is to use professional chemicals. They have been tested, they have a proven effectiveness and often a long duration of action. And, by the way, you should not be afraid of their toxicity - they are approved for use in personal subsidiary farms (you simply cannot buy highly toxic drugs in the store) and, if the instructions are followed, do not pose any threat to human and animal health.

Sources

  1. Larionov M.V. Ecobiological characteristics of representatives of the family. Formicidae in pine plantations of the Oka-Don Lowland: Saratov Region // dissertation, 2007 (https://www.dissercat.com/content/ekobiologicheskaya-kharakteristika-predstavitelei-sem-formicidae-v-sosnovykh-nasazhdeniyakh).

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