Fuchsia care over winter
How to overwinter fuchsias: expert advice for all varieties
(Image credit: Getty Images)
Knowing how to overwinter fuchsias means you can enjoy their dancing blooms all over again next year.
So, don’t discard your hanging basket and container fuchsias at the end of the growing season, as many people do. Instead, keep them alive through the winter by putting them into a dormant state during the colder months.
It’s easy to do and if you get it right your fuchsias will reward you in a delightfully flowery way. Maximum blooms next summer, minimal effort for the gardener – win win.
Ensuring caring for fuchsias is on your list of winter garden ideas will give you a beautiful outdoor space all year around.
How to overwinter fuchsias
While you might be more focused on the best winter flowers to plant – or the best winter plants for pots and borders to bring color outdoors nearer to the house – getting many of your summer and fall plants through the winter is a must-do. Below, we investigate how to overwinter fuchsias, from hardy to tender varieties.
Identifying hardy or tender fuchsias
(Image credit: Future)
There are two types of fuchsia to consider here. Hardy fuchsias and tender fuchsias. Strictly speaking, both types are classified as half-hardy perennial shrubs.
Hardy fuchsias, also known as bush fuchsias, have an upright habit with delicate, small flowers (less than the diameter of a pencil) on long, arching stems. These shrubs are usually planted directly in the ground and can grow to around 2ft high with a similar spread.
Tender or hanging fuchsias have larger, showy, often double or many-layered blooms on a more compact plant. Upright varieties or standard types are perfect for containers while trailing types are ideal for hanging baskets or taller pots.
When you’re planning a winter garden and considering how to overwinter fuchsias, identifying the type is important. With the right treatment, hardy and tender fuchsias can survive the winter provided temperatures don’t drop below 40°F (5°C). The winter regime is different for each type, however.
How to overwinter hardy or bush fuchsias
(Image credit: Future)
The clue is in the name. In US hardiness zones 6-10, and in most areas of the UK, many varieties of hardy fuchsias, also known as bush fuchsias, can be left where they are in the garden for winter, provided they are planted in a sheltered spot in well-draining soil.
When you’re overwintering hardy fuchsias outside, it’s a good idea to mulch around the crown and roots of the plants with compost, bark or straw to give extra frost protection. From late fall, the plant will lose its leaves and die back to the ground, leaving very brittle-looking twiggy stems but you should start to see signs of new growth in spring.
How to overwinter tender container-grown fuchsias
(Image credit: Future)
Unless you live in a warm climate zone (10-11 USDA) tender fuchsias need a little more care and consideration to keep them alive over winter.
To overwinter fuchsias in cooler environments you need to put them into a dormant state for the colder months. It’s a simple and methodical process that even those new to growing fuchsias will be able to master. Choose a cool, frost-free place with a minimum temperature of 40-45°F (5-7°C). Keep the fuchsia plants in dark or low-light conditions for the winter. A garage, shed, basement or under a greenhouse bench all work well.
Portland-based fuchsia expert Theo Margelony of The Fuchsietum , likens this winter dormancy period to providing a little necessary rest and recuperation for the fuchsia plants. He believes potted fuchsias are well worth saving over winter, especially if you have an unusual cultivar that's served you well in your summer containers.
He says that if you ask 10 different growers, they'll all offer different advice on how to overwinter fuchsias. 'Techniques can vary from coddled royal treatments to a minimalist bare-bones approach. Much depends on location, set-up, and how much work you want to invest. '
To keep things simple and as trouble-free as possible, we've summed up the advice from gardening experts in our step-by-step guide to how to overwinter fuchsias.
How to overwinter fuchsias in 6 easy steps
1. Gradually ease off on watering tender fuchsias in fall.
2. Keep an eye on the weather forecast and before the first frost (usually in November) bring tender fuchsias into a frost-free space - a greenhouse, garage, shed or basement is ideal. They don’t need light when they're overwintering.
3. Remove all leaves from the plant.
4. Water sparingly, once a month should be fine, but check them from time to time and don’t allow them to dry out completely.
5. Tender fuchsias can go back outside in spring, after the last frost.
6. Cut them back, repot them with fresh compost, feed them and watch them come back to life and bloom.
(Image credit: Getty)
Water fuchsias sparingly in winter
While fuchsias aren't suitable for winter hanging basket ideas, you don't need to dig them out of summer baskets during winter. Portland-based fuchsia expert Theo Margelony says: ‘With regular hanging baskets, I start withholding water late in the season and then hang them in my dark, frost-free garage. They won’t need light while dormant and ideally they stay at about 40°F (5°C) in there.
'Leaves start to fall. I clean those up and physically remove the rest from the plant. This really helps minimize pests and diseases. I only give the baskets a cup of water on the four holidays – Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year, and Valentine’s Day – to keep them from drying out while asleep.’
Keeping fuchsias pest-free indoors
Karen Musgrave of Hicks Nurseries overwinters tender fuchsias in her New York basement and says, ‘There are really no special tricks for fuchsias, the important thing is to just keep them pest-free and sporadically watered so they stay dormant until spring arrives.
‘I move them into my garage for about two weeks once the weather drops below 50ºF (10°C). This gives the plants a chance to acclimate to the lower light conditions they will encounter in the basement. I spray them twice with insecticidal soap – once when I first move them into the garage and again the day before I move them into the house for the winter. This kills any bugs lurking around in the soil.’
Like Theo Margelony, she waters sporadically throughout the winter. ‘Just enough so they don’t die. The plants drop a bunch of leaves in this dormant state but will hang on until spring when I move them outdoors again,’ she says.
Bringing fuchsias back out of hibernation
(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)
Emilly Barbosa Fernandes, a small space gardener from California and consultant at HouseGrail , has some good advice on how to bring fuchsias out of their winter dormancy.
'When spring starts and you know the last hard frost is done, bring your fuchsias back into a warmer, sunny area and clip the branches about halfway back. This will help with flowering during the spring and summer. Place the plant in the partial sun, so you don't overwhelm it with the change. Now that it's coming out of dormancy, you want to start watering it normally again.’
Theo Margelony also cuts back the plants in late spring, 'When I take the baskets out of storage when the days lengthen enough for good growth, the weather improves, and it’s time to repot.'
Follow the advice from our garden experts and your hardy and tender fuchsias should be happy come rain or shine, frost or snow, and you can look forward to summer flowering fuchsias all over again.
Karen is the houses editor for homesandgardens.com and homes editor for the brand’s sister titles, Period Living and Country Homes & Interiors, and an experienced writer on interiors and gardens. She loves visiting historic houses for Period Living and writing about rural properties for Country Homes & Interiors, and working with photographers to capture all shapes and sizes of properties. Karen began her career as a sub editor at Hi-Fi News and Record Review magazine. Her move to women’s magazines came soon after, in the shape of Living magazine, which covered cookery, fashion, beauty, homes and gardening. From Living Karen moved to Ideal Home magazine, where as deputy chief sub, then chief sub, she started to really take an interest in properties, architecture, interior design and gardening.
How to Prepare your Fuchsia Flowers for Winter
Despite the fact that they come from subtropical regions that rarely, if ever, have to face the threat of frost, fuchsias have found their way into gardens across the globe.
These versatile flowers can lend color to a shady corner of your patio or show off a riot of blossoms in a sunny patch of your garden.
In areas where the temperatures tend to stay above 32°F, hardy fuchsias can come back year after year, growing up to eight feet tall, depending on the variety.
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There are also the potted types that you can pick up at the home store. Sadly, many of these lovelies are treated as annuals and tossed out when winter rolls around.
But these types of fuchsia aren’t easy-come-easy-go annuals like petunias or zinnias, they are tender perennials and with a bit of preparation can be overwintered, ready to shine next season.
These garden stunners have so much to offer and don’t deserve to be tossed on the compost pile after a season of working their colorful little hearts out in your yard.
Whether you live in a region that doesn’t get too cold in the winter and you want to keep your in-ground hardy bush looking its best or you need to know what to do with your potted fuchsia through the cold months, this guide has you covered.
Here’s what’s ahead:
What You’ll Learn
- A Bit About Fuchsia
- How to Winterize Your Fuchsia
- Cold Weather Care
- Frost Protection
- Potted Fuchsia
- Bring Them Back to Life
The first thing you need to do when you consider winter care for your fuchsia is to determine what plants you are dealing with. A potted plant is handled differently than one growing in the ground, and different varieties have specific needs.
How you prepare your plants for winter will also depend on whether you live in an area where temperatures drop to below freezing for weeks at a time or where you might just be dealing with a surprise frost now and then.
We’ll help you sort it all out, so let’s get started.
A Bit About Fuchsia
There are thousands of named fuchsia cultivars and countless more natural hybrids growing in home gardens.
While they all originate in subtropical regions, many have been bred to handle a bit more cold. When I say “a bit,” I don’t mean that there are any types that can survive in the sub-zero temperatures of a northern winter. These perennials are still pretty tender.
Fuchsia magellanica is one of the hardiest species and will thrive in USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10. Known as “hardy fuchsia,” this is the type you’ll often see at garden centers. In Zone 7-9, they will require some winter protection to help it through the cold months.
The Solent Fuchsia and Flower Club in the United Kingdom has published a list of hardy fuchsias that have been identified by the British Fuchsia Society as being able to withstand winter for several years.
If you want to find a variety that you won’t have to worry about too much, it’s worth checking out their list when you purchase a plant. Any of these hardy types will grow happily in the ground in Zones 7-10, and can be overwintered in place.
Then there are other cultivars – usually sold as potted plants or in hanging baskets – that will turn up their toes if they even hear a whisper of the word “frost.”
You can bring these tender types indoors to keep as a houseplant during the cold weather.
There are also heat tolerant cultivars, which the Northwest Fuchsia Society can help you identify, that are ideal for growing indoors as they thrive the warm, dry air we typically have in our homes during the winter.
If you live in Zone 6 or below and have a hardy fuchsia in a pot, you’ll need to bring that inside, too. Just keep in mind that F. magellanica doesn’t take to living indoors as well as the other varieties. That’s because they do best with temperatures around 40-50°F in the winter and tend to suffer in the dry air.
Instead, you can winterize them, as described below, and keep them dormant in a cool garage, greenhouse, enclosed patio, or basement.
If you’re not sure what particular type you are growing, it’s best to assume that any orange-flowered variety isn’t hardy. When in doubt, you should treat your plant as a tender fuchsia for the purposes of overwintering.
Curious to know more about how to raise these showy beauties? Check out our guide to growing fuchsia to learn more.
How to Winterize Your Fuchsia
To give your hardy fuchsia a solid foundation to survive outdoors during the winter and return happy and healthy in the spring, fall cleanup is your first priority.
Just before your average first frost date, rake up and remove any debris like dead leaves and spent flowers from around your plants. This prevents pests and disease from overwintering in plant debris.
Then, prune away any dead or diseased branches and remove any blossoms or leaves that haven’t already fallen off. Use this opportunity to give the bush some shape and lightly trim back any long overgrown stems.
However, you don’t want to prune your fuchsia right back. The stems act as insulation over the cold months and a hard pruning can result in severe frost damage.
Usually, blossoms and leaves will have fallen the first time a cold snap comes around, so if you’re doing your other chores in advance of this, just come back out after the first frost and remove any stragglers. You do this because the leaves can harbor fungi.
Cold Weather Care
For fuchsias that are staying outside, there are a few things you can do to get them set to handle whatever winter has to throw at them. Remember, this only applies if temperatures in your area remain above 30°F for the majority of the winter months.
Mature plants will have an established root system and will be able to withstand the cold far better than young plants.
After you have cleared away any debris and given your plant a very light haircut, you can apply a layer of mulch.
Place mulch around the base of the plant to protect the roots. That way, if a surprise freeze damages the branches, the root system will stay intact.
Six inches of a natural mulch such as autumn leaves or wood chips should do the trick in colder areas, such as Zone 7 and 8. In warmer locations, you won’t need to apply quite that thick of a layer. An inch or two is fine.
If your plant is young, you can be more generous with your mulch.
It’s a good idea to spray your fuchsia with a insecticidal oil such as Bonide All Seasons Horticultural and Dormant Spray Oil, which Arbico Organics carries in various sizes.
Bonide All Seasons Horticultural and Dormant Spray Oil
This prevents the eggs of pests like mites and aphids from overwintering on your flora and causing problems as the temperatures warm up.
Apply according to the manufacturer’s directions and spray once as you’re prepping your plants for the winter and again in January.
There’s generally no need to add supplemental water during the winter unless you have a long dry spell.
Frost Protection
Even if you live in an area where the temperatures generally remain above freezing, there are always those days where Mother Nature has a surprise in store. Keep an eye on the weather forecast and be ready to take action to protect your fuchsia if necessary.
If the soil appears dry, give it a good soak before the temperatures drop because a moist root ball freezes more slowly than a dry root ball. Moist soil holds and releases the heat more slowly than dry soil.
Then, cover the bush with an old sheet, a tarp, some burlap, plastic sheets, or cardboard to protect the branches from the cold. If you’re expecting snow or high winds, put sticks into the ground to prop the material on and use bricks to hold down the edges.
What happens if you didn’t get out there in time to protect your plant? As long as the temperature didn’t remain below 29°F for more than a few hours, everything will probably be fine.
You might lose some or even all of the branches, but as long as your plant is well mulched, the roots should survive and your bush will send up new shoots in the spring.
Potted Fuchsia
If you can’t let your fuchsia sit outside year-round, you’ll have to bring it inside or into a protected area before the first frost hits.
Before you bring any plant indoors, it’s a good idea to gently shake the branches to see if any bugs fly out. You should also inspect the leaves closely for pests and give it a quick spray of water from the hose to knock anything loose that you may have missed.
If you are growing hardy fuchsia, you need to bring the plant to a spot where it won’t suffer from frost damage, but where temperatures are still cool enough so the plant can go dormant. A root cellar or garage wall adjacent to the heated part of the house, an insulated greenhouse, or enclosed patio would work well.
You’re aiming to keep it in an area where the air temperature remains somewhere between 40-50°F.
Now it’s time to snip or pull away all the leaves and any remaining flowers. Don’t cut the branches, though. We’re going to do that in the spring to encourage bushy growth when the plant is ready to start coming out of dormancy.
During the winter months you’ll need to water it once a month or so to provide just enough moisture that the soil doesn’t dry out entirely.
The goal is to keep your plant alive but not to encourage new growth.
When spring rolls around, you can move it to a windowsill or other sunny location and resume normal watering as your plant starts to develop new growth.
As new growth starts to come through, you can prune it back by a third to give it a compact shape and encourage bushy growth.
For tender fuchsias, after checking for pests, pinch off the blossoms and place it in a sunny window where it will get at least six hours of sunlight a day. You can add supplemental lighting in the form of a grow light if you don’t have a sunny enough spot.
Then just treat it as you would any other houseplant by giving it regular water. Don’t feed it though as you don’t want to encourage too much growth during the cool weather.
Bring Them Back to Life
After all risk of frost has passed, you can take your hardy potted fuchsia out of its winter location and harden it off before placing it back outside. If needed, this is a good time to repot your plant into a slightly larger container.
Start by bringing the plant outdoors into a protected, sunny location for an hour a day, gradually extending the time over the course of a week.
When you see signs of new growth, you can prune the plant by a third, to encourage bushy growth.
For tender plants, you can repot your plants, harden them off as described above, and bring them back outside.
To repot, take the plant out of its current container and trim away any old, dead roots. Then, place it in its new pot and lightly fill with potting soil.
Water the soil and add more dirt if necessary, but be careful not to pack down the soil too much because fuchsia doesn’t like having constricted roots.
Give your plant a slow-release fertilizer, such as Osmocote Smart-Release Indoor Outdoor Plant Food 15-9-12 (NPK).
Osmocote Smart-Release Indoor Outdoor Plant Food
You can find it in a variety of package sizes available on Amazon.
For those growing in the ground, remove the mulch and apply an 18-18-18 (NPK) fertilizer to give them a springtime boost.
Trim away any branches or leaves that were damaged by frost or prune your plant by up to one-third. The goal is to make the bush look tidy and shaped into a size you prefer.
Don’t Let Winter Get Your Fuchsia Down
Okay, confession time: I once spotted a handful of fuchsias in pots sitting on the curb to be picked up by the garbage collectors. I marched up to the house and asked them if I could rescue their plants and give them a good home.
That’s how much I hate to see plants go to waste.
To this day, those hardy fuchsias are standing tall in my garden, three times the size they were in their little containers. And all it took was a little bit of preparation, a dash of mulch, and a blanket for the plant to snuggle with on those cooler nights.
Now that you know how to take care of your fuchsia in the winter, whether it’s in a pot or the ground, you can keep enjoying it year after year.
And you won’t have to worry about some stranger popping up at your door after they spotted your discarded fuchsias in a heap on the sidewalk.
After you get them settled in for their long winter nap, come back and let us know how it went, and share your tips in the comments section below!
And for more information on how to overwinter flowers in your garden, you’ll need these guides next:
- How to Winterize Astilbe Plants: 5 Easy Steps
- How to Overwinter Bird of Paradise Plants
- How to Winterize Hardy Garden Mums
© Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Products photos via Arbico Organics and Osmocote. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. With additional writing and editing by Clare Groom.
preparation of a flower for keeping in various conditions, and whether it is necessary to prune the plantDacha expert
Basement or cellar In the apartment How to care for a flower on the windowsill? Should I trim?
Contents and features of preparation for wintering
Fuchsia is a seasonal plant. Spring-autumn is a period of active growth, flowering and reproduction, and winter is a period of rest. It needs good lighting all year round, but in winter it is watered less often, preventing the earthen clod from drying out by 100% and wrinkling of the bark. In autumn, they transfer the flower to a cool room (or artificially create coolness) and are not upset when they notice the leaves fall. nine0007
Where to start?
- Preparing the flower for winter - the plant is left outdoors until hard frosts. By bringing it into the house ahead of time, they interrupt the process of lignification.
- The flower has not been fertilized since the beginning of September. Fertilizers are not needed, because by this month he accumulates enough nutrients to overwinter and not die without them.
- Autumn pruning will be required to prevent crown elongation, reduced bud size and problems with flowering next spring. nine0018
Important! During pruning, remove weak and bruised shoots, and shorten the remaining ones by 1/3. Otherwise, new buds will not be laid. Old forks also need to be cut off so that replacement shoots appear. It is necessary to peel off all the leaves on fuchsia.
Before transferring the plant to the winter quarters, it does not hurt to inspect. It should be free of yellowed leaves and dried stems. Otherwise, they will turn into a breeding ground for fungal infections and harmful insects (rust, gray rot). Experienced flower growers recommend treating fuchsia with a biological product based on rapeseed oil Rapsol before wintering. This spraying protects it from aphids and other pests. nine0007
How to prune and save a plant?
Before wintering, fuchsia is pruned, not fertilized and sprayed with a biopreparation bought in a flower shop to protect against pests.
Basement or cellar
How to store a plant in a basement and how should it be cared for? Not everyone has the opportunity to organize the wintering of fuchsia on a glazed warm loggia of an apartment or in a bright greenhouse. Wintering is great in a "dark" room - in the basement, garage or cellar. Before you transfer it to one of the above rooms, cut it, remove the leaves. nine0007
In the dark, it "breathes" as well as in the open air, consuming nutrients and evaporating water. The room where it will be located must be ventilated. Otherwise, with its appearance in it, the humidity in the air will increase, which will provoke an outbreak of fungal diseases. The optimum temperature for wintering fuchsia in the cellar or basement, where the temperature is - + 10⁰С.
In the apartment
Not all flower growers have a basement or garage where they can move a fuchsia pot for the winter. Some have no choice, and they are forced to bring it home. The apartment can also provide a comfortable wintering, but only if it is regularly aired. nine0007
In early autumn, fuchsia cuttings are transplanted into "poor soil" with a small amount of humus for the winter. This slows down the growth of young bushes. If in winter the grower notices that they are sprouting, he must ruthlessly cut them off and open the window wider to lower the temperature in the room. The stems do not need to be thrown away. You can try to root them by placing them in water on a well-lit and “warm” window sill.
If fuchsia wintering in the basement is rarely watered - 1-2 times a month , then the plants that winter in the apartment are watered more often.
Please note! Due to central heating, the earth ball dries out faster, and the lack of moisture leads to the death of the flower.
On the day when the grower brings the fuchsia pot home, he must open the window and set the double-glazed window to the minimum ventilation mode. The window should always be open, except on days when it gets very cold outside.
During the dormant period, fuchsia is even more capricious than during the period of active growth and flowering. nine0012 She reacts badly to excess and lack of moisture. The lack of the necessary conditions for wintering, high humidity and temperature lead to the appearance of insects. Fungicides and insecticides do not always help in the fight against them, and the plant can only be thrown away.
How to care for a flower on the windowsill?
- Maximum window sill ventilation. The pot is placed as close to the glass as possible.
- Insulation of the bottom with foam plastic during transplantation helps to avoid root rot due to cold masses constantly breaking into the room through the half-open window. nine0018
- A dry air barrier is needed if the apartment is hot. To do this, simply cover the fuchsia with plastic wrap.
- Watering should be infrequent and not heavy.
- The plant must be treated with special preparations to protect against pests.
- In December and January, the plant is illuminated with lamps, since there is not enough lighting during the day.
Should I trim?
Definitely you need to prune the plant for the winter, because this is an important stage in growing and it is very important to do it right. It is held twice a year. The first time - in the fall, when they transfer it from the garden to the basement or apartment and it is necessary to provide suitable conditions for hibernation for it, and the second - in the spring to form a beautiful bush. Fuchsia is pruned in the fall after it has faded, so as not to provoke the growth of 1-2 trunks and pulling up the bush. This procedure is necessary for the proper development of the flower next spring.
When should I clean?
It is necessary to harvest fuchsia in the fall, at the end of October they transfer the pot from the garden or take it from the dacha for the winter to an apartment or basement. nine0007
Care
Thanks to the work of breeders, varieties of fuchsia have appeared that will overwinter on the street even in those regions of the Russian Federation where the temperature on the thermometers drops below -30 degrees Celsius. Before thinking about organizing her wintering, they will find out whether she is winter-hardy or not.
Important! You can not bring winter-hardy fuchsia into the apartment: it feels in natural conditions - in the garden it is better than in warmth.
Caring for fuchsia in winter is easy. No need to fertilize it, but only water it as the earthen clod dries. nine0011 It is desirable to maintain a temperature on the windowsill - + 10-15 degrees Celsius. It allows you to stop the growth of the plant until spring. A bad place for him is the north window, because due to an acute lack of light, it stretches out. The best time to “wake up” is the end of February. A hardy plant is left in the garden (Coralline, Baby Blue Eyes, General Monk, etc.).
Cut it off before wintering, leaving shoots 5-10 cm long. For wintering, fuchsia is covered with a layer of peat or dry oak leaves. To protect against moisture, a layer of polyethylene film is laid on top of it. nine0007
Possible diseases
When fuchsia is in winter, it is affected by a fungal disease - rust. It appears due to the fact that the grower neglected the recommendations and did not create conditions for a trouble-free wintering: the room is warm, dark and humid, and not dry and fresh. He watered the plant more often than necessary, hid it from direct sunlight and did not ventilate the room.
To prevent the fungus from attacking fuchsia, treat it with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture , but many people neglect this procedure. They reproach themselves for this when dark brown spots appear on the leaves. In most cases, the diseased flower dies, and with it other indoor plants, if it is not isolated from others and the leaves affected by the fungus are not cut off on them. Noticing rust in the first days, they save the plant by preparing a disinfectant mixture from 5 liters of water, 200 grams of green soap and 15 grams of copper sulfate. nine0007
Gray mold affects fuchsia in case of waterlogging of the air in the room. It is easy to determine which part is affected: it is soft and watery, and white plaque spots are visible on the leaf plate. To cure the plant, the affected leaves are cut off, treated with special preparations and the microclimate in the room is changed to prevent re-infection of fuchsia.
Conclusion
It is easy to store fuchsia in winter, and it is not necessary to move it from the garden to the basement or to the loggia. She will overwinter on the windowsill in the apartment, if occasionally watered and sprayed, smoothing out the central heating. nine0007
How to keep fuchsia in the apartment in winter
My husband and I planted several bushes of fuchsia in our summer cottage, but not all bushes could survive our harsh winter. I shared this problem with an experienced grower, he said that every autumn this plant must be dug out of open soil and stored in a cool room, and in the spring after waking up, planted again on the site. Since my husband and I began to follow this advice, we have not lost a single fuchsia. In this article, I will tell you how to properly store fuchsia indoors in winter. nine0007
Content of Article
- Rules for Care
- Preparation for winter
- Care in winter
- Anglstation in spring
- Disease
- Conclusion
Location Rules for Care
Love Foxia. It grows equally well both in open soil and in a pot, with proper care it can easily live for about 60 years. Caring for her is very simple, even a beginner can handle it:
- Watering - It belongs to moisture-loving shrubs, so it can be both watered and sprayed. It is recommended to water it daily, but the portion of water should be small, otherwise the roots may rot from an excess of moisture. Before watering, feel the top layer of the earth, if it is dry at a depth of 1 centimeter, then watering is required. So that the roots do not suffer from an excess of water, before planting, a drainage layer is installed at the bottom of the pit, which will take away excess moisture. If possible, set automatic watering so that the shrub does not suffer from drought. nine0018
- Lighting - The shrub does not like direct sunlight, so it is better to put a container with it in partial shade. In open soil, a seedling is planted from the very beginning in a place where the sun looks only early in the morning or late in the evening. Before planting, be sure to consider what shade the flowers will be. If light, then penumbra is quite suitable, if dark, then the place should be lighter.
- Soil composition - Can grow in almost any soil, as long as it contains less nitrogen. Black soil is best. From spring to autumn, the plant is regularly given a liquid top dressing with a low nitrogen content. In winter, she is not fed, because she is in a dormant period. nine0018
- Temperature - She does not tolerate hot weather well. At air temperatures above +26 about C, its leaves become lethargic, it refuses to bloom. Therefore, in the summer it needs to be watered and sprayed more often, as well as covered with paper from the scorching rays of the sun. If it grows in a pot, then it is temporarily transferred to a cool, but lit place.
If these simple rules are observed, a beautiful shrub will bloom for many years to come.
Preparing for winter
But not all of its species can survive the harsh Russian winter, so many flower growers transplant it into a container every autumn and place it in a cool room, and wake it up in spring and plant it again in open soil. If it grows in an apartment in a pot, then in the fall it needs to be prepared for a dormant period. If she cannot rest in the winter, then she will refuse to bloom in the new season. Therefore, in order for the plant to successfully go into a dormant period, these procedures are performed:0007
- Watering - From September, gradually reduce watering so that the plant is completely dry by frost.
- Top dressing - From the end of August, they completely stop giving fertilizer. After that, the bush will shed all the greenery and petals, preparing for winter.
- Lighting - The container with the plant is moved from the windowsill to a room where the light is weaker. If the room is too dark, it is recommended to turn on an ordinary incandescent lamp for several hours a day. It'll be enough. nine0018
- Air temperature - To help a houseplant enter a dormant period, a pot with it is transferred from a warm room to a cool balcony or basement, where the air temperature is kept no higher than +14 o C.
After the above, wait until all the leaves fly off the plant, and the branches themselves become dry.
Winter care
After all the leaves and buds have fallen from her, she needs to provide normal conditions for hibernation. To do this, the bush is carefully dug out of the soil, the roots are shaken off the ground and carefully examined for parasites or rot. Roots that are rotten or infected with parasites are cut off with a clean tool. nine0007
The pot, in which she will endure hibernation, is thoroughly washed from the inside, disinfected. A sufficient drainage layer is poured at the bottom, then half covered with fresh earth with a low humus content. After that, the bush is carefully planted in it and topped up with soil.
After that, the plant is placed in a dark, damp place with a temperature not higher than +14 about C. It cannot be placed in a warm place, otherwise it will not bloom in the new season. If suddenly in winter it began to germinate, then the sprouts need to be cut off, and the air temperature in the room should be lowered even more by ventilation. nine0007
If it is not possible to place this flower in the basement or on the balcony, then it is placed close to the window, which is often opened slightly for ventilation. So that the earth does not dry out at all, it is watered three or four times a month with warm water. So that parasites do not start on the shrub during wintering, it must be treated with special means from insect pests.
Rules for the care of fuchsia indoors:
- Daily ventilation of the room.
- The bottom must be insulated with styrofoam so that the roots do not rot due to the cool air. nine0018
- Make sure that the apartment always has humid air.
- Water no more than four times a month.
- Treat the shrub with insect repellant before wintering.
- In the absence of sunlight, the bush should be illuminated during the day with ordinary incandescent lamps.
Awakening in the spring
In March, when there are more and more sunny days, fuchsia begins to slowly come out of hibernation:
- Pruning — In order for new shoots and leaves to grow on the bush, old branches are cut almost to the root. If they already have fresh shoots, then they cut off only the top. nine0018
- Place - The pot with the cutting is placed in a warm and well-lit place, but away from sunlight.
- Watering - Two or three times a week, as soon as the sun has set, the soil is watered with pre-settled water. Within a month, gradually increase the frequency of watering. So that the wood does not become covered with cracks, any container filled to the top with water is placed next to it.
In a month, not only buds, but also buds will appear on new branches. It is transplanted into open soil only when the air temperature on the street, even at night, is not lower than +10 o C.
Reproduction
It is quite easy to propagate at home that even a beginner can handle it. One of three methods is usually chosen as propagation:
- Cuttings - At a bush that has come out of hibernation, a shoot that has grown up to 15 centimeters is cut off. It is placed in clean water or moist substrate for rooting. Cover with a cup or bag to create greenhouse conditions. Ventilate daily. After that, the rooted stalk is transplanted into the ground. The color of the petals will be exactly the same as that of the mother bush. nine0018
- Seeds - In this case, the seeds are simply planted in fertile soil, until the first shoots appear, the container with them is covered with a film, which is opened daily for ventilation. As the sprout grows, it is transplanted into a larger pot every autumn or spring. At first, this procedure is done annually, as the roots need more and more space. The disadvantage of seed propagation is that the color of the petals may not be the same as that of the mother shrub. nine0017 Leaf - The largest leaf with a petiole is cut from the branch, placed in a nutrient substrate and covered with a glass or film, not forgetting to ventilate daily. A month later, the rooted shoot is transplanted into a larger pot.
Diseases
If a once healthy flower suddenly becomes lethargic or the color and shape of the leaves change, this indicates that it has picked up a fungal disease or parasites. In this case, it must be carefully examined in order to understand exactly how to treat it:
- Rust - It occurs during wintering due to excessive humidity in a cool room and frequent watering, and also due to the lack of fresh air. In this case, the infected plant most often dies, so that this does not happen, it must be treated with a 1% Bordeaux mixture solution before wintering, which will protect fuchsia from the fungus. If the infection is insignificant, then the bush can still be saved. To do this, 50 grams of grated green soap and 3 grams of copper sulfate are dissolved in a liter container with water, then they are treated with infected greens. nine0018
- Powdery mildew - Occurs as white spots on branches or leaves due to excessive moisture in the soil. You can get rid of it with the help of "Fundazol".
- Chlorosis - Greens turn yellow and fall off, this is due to excessive watering in a cold room. To save the bush, it is watered with well-diluted potassium permanganate.
- White fly larvae - They are found on the underside of the leaves, from where they drink all the nutrients, after which all the greens die off. To get rid of these larvae, everyone is treated with Actellik. nine0018
- Sluggish leaves - Lack of sunlight and nutrients. It is necessary to rearrange the pot to another lighter place and give complex top dressing.
Conclusion
In this way, even on the windowsill of an ordinary apartment, you can create ideal conditions for wintering fuchsia.