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Evergreen fruit tree


Climate, Varieties & More ~ Homestead and Chill

Figs. Persimmons. Apples. Lemons. Avocados. Apricots. Mulberries… Is your mouth watering yet? Yeah, mine too. These are just a few of the types of fruit trees that we have in our yard. Or as we prefer to think of it – our food forest. In just six years on this homestead, we have planted over 20 trees! While you may not be able to grow all of the same types of fruit trees in your location, you will surely be able to grow some – including varieties that we cannot! Ornamental trees are also welcome additions to any homestead, as they provide shelter and habitat for wildlife. Also, privacy from neighbors.

Let’s dig into some of the factors you’ll want to consider when choosing the best trees for your garden! This article will explore common tree growing requirements, concepts such as chill hours and cross-pollination, and examples of cold-hardy and heat-loving tree varieties. I will also provide recommendations for growing trees in containers, and where to source them from! 


For best practices on how to plant new trees, check out this article.

HOW TO CHOOSE A TREE FOR YOUR SPACE

Edible or Ornamental?


Edible Trees


I am always a proponent of planting edibles. Growing fruit trees is an excellent way to augment your supply of homegrown food beyond a traditional vegetable garden, and usually easier to manage! Even more, you can choose an array of fruit tree types that bear fruit at different times of year, further extending your harvests.

Then as your fruit trees mature and provide a larger bounty, you can enjoy preserved homegrown fruit in many ways – dried, jams, fruit butters, frozen, fermented (homemade apple cider vinegar, anyone?) or in beverages such as kombucha. And that isn’t even getting into the potential to grow nuts at home.

You may love your fruit, but so will the local wildlife. Fruit trees can sometimes be a little more work than ornamentals, especially if you have squirrels, birds, rats, and other “pests” to contend with. You may need to get creative and protect your tree, such as netting or bagging the ripening fruit. Or, if you have plenty to spare, feel free to share it with your local wild friends.

Fruit trees will enjoy more frequent organic fertilizer and compost than ornamentals as well. 

Desert King Figs. They’re green-skinned figs that fully ripen without turning rosy-colored like many other figs. This means wild birds usually miss the signal that the fruit is ripe, and leave them alone! The Desert King is our favorite of all figs, which grows well here on the temperate Central Coast, or even in the PNW. Unlike some heat-loving figs, she ripens up just fine for us in our cooler foggy summers.


Ornamental Trees


Speaking of wildlife, ornamental trees are also extremely important in this regard! They play a critical role in a thriving local ecosystem, particularly native trees. Our California Sycamore is a prime example, as a preferred habitat for both hummingbirds and monarch butterflies. They’re in it all the time! To learn more about creating a wildlife-friendly garden, and even becoming a Certified Wildlife Habitat like our little beach town garden, check out this article!

Ornamental trees can also be very attractive for those seeking privacy.  They can oftentimes be quicker-growing, larger, and more evergreen than many fruit trees. We have planted large ornamental trees, like a California Pepper Tree, as a way to quickly block out a neighbor’s house that loomed over our front yard. Similar to the Sycamore, the Pepper tree is another happening hummingbird hang out.

While ornamentals may not feed you directly, many of them produce blooms that feed pollinators. Some of their blooms are irresistible to humans too. When our dwarf Magnolia is in bloom, I can’t keep my face out of it! If you’re interesting in helping to boost your local pollinator population, check out our list of Top 23 Plants for Pollinators.

A hummingbird resting in our California Sycamore – the first tree we ever planted on this homestead! The smallest branches are perfect for little hummer feets!

Edible or ornamental, this world needs and will appreciate more trees. You can’t go wrong.

TREE GROWING CONDITIONS


When you’re in the market for trees, you’ll want to keep several things in mind. One being: what are the growing requirements of the tree you are interested in? Do some research before making a purchase. Does the tree need full sun, or protection from wind or frost? Ample or modest water? Warm conditions to bear fruit?

Check to see if that particular tree will be happy growing in your hardiness zone. For example, we are located on the border of USDA zone 9b -10a. The description or tag of the tree should specify the zones it is best suited for. If you aren’t sure what hardiness zone you are located in, enter your zip code here for a quick and easy answer! Also, take a look around your neighborhood. What types of trees do you see already growing nearby? That will give you an idea of what grows well in your area.

Beyond a compatible growing zone, many fruit trees will also have specific “chill hours” requirements 


Fruit Trees & Chill Hours

It is probably common sense that heat will influence a fruit trees productivity. Certain types of fruit trees crave heat and cannot tolerate harsh freezing weather, such as citrus, bananas, and mangoes. On the other hand, did you know that many fruit trees need cold weather to bear fruit too? Without the right amount of exposure to cold temperatures, also known as chilling hours, the tree’s hormones aren’t triggered to produce fruit.


What are chill hours?


Trees listen for the signal that winter has arrived. They rely on “chill hours”, or vernalization, to break dormancy. Chill hours occur when the temperature stays between 32°-45°F. The hormone responsible for dormancy breaks down in this range, allowing buds to develop into flowers or foliage when the weather warms up in late winter. These hours are cumulative and need not be continuous. Interestingly, temperatures below 32°F are ineffective and do not count. Daytime temperatures above sixty degrees during this period may be subtracted and negatively affect the cumulative total.

UC Master Gardeners and Bay Laurel Nursery, on chill hours


Nut trees, pears, apples, and stone fruit are classic examples of trees that usually have high chill hour requirements. Yet if you live in a temperate location with few chill hours, don’t lose hope! There are many varieties of fruit trees that do well despite mild winter weather, also known as “low chill” varieties.


Here’s a list of some low-chill (less than 300 hours) fruit trees varieties:


If you’re in a colder climate, you’re in luck! Because a majority of fruit and nut trees require more than 300 chill hours – some up to 1,000 hours! Others, such as figs, only require 100 chill hours during the cool season. Tropical fruit plants and trees require no chill hours. As you can see, there are endless cultivars within each category of fruit tree, so no matter where you live, there is a perfect fruit tree waiting for you out there.

Our Anna apple tree. This lady’s low chill hour requirements are perfectly suited for our virtually frost-free zone. We were very fortunate to have this established tree already on the property when we bought it!


How to determine your locations chill hours


Determining how many average chill hours you receive at home can be a little trickier than figuring out your USDA hardiness zone. There are a number of websites, like “Chill Hours” by Mississippi State University, that claim to be able to take your local weather station code (look that up here) and then give you the chill hours. I had issues with getting results for our area, but maybe yours will be different! Note that I have also heard it can take a while to load. 

For my fellow Californians, I found this handy list from UC Davis that breaks down chill hours into more detail by county and some cities. For the most accurate details on your areas chill hours, contact your county agriculture department or local Master Gardeners program. 

To give you a general idea, here is a chill hours map – but do note that this shows sweeping averages and doesn’t take microclimates into account. 

Photo courtesy of Tomorrow’s Harvest


Heat and Cold Tolerant Trees


The most cold-hardy edible trees include: apples, pears, plums, black walnut, elderberry, pecans, and hazelnuts. They are rated to grow all the way down into Zone 3! As you move up into Zone 4, you can add persimmons, apricots, cherries, carpathian walnut to that list. In Zone 5, tack on peaches, paw paws, mulberries, and almonds. Zone 6 can grow all of the same. 

Zones 7 and 8 are walking a fine middle line. Gardeners there can grow everything the colder zones can, and will also be able to venture into some more temperate-climate trees – depending on the variety of course! For example, most fig trees prefer zones 8 and up, but the “Hardy Chicago” and “Brown Turkey” cultivars are rated down to zone 5. Certain types of olives, pomegranates, bananas, as well as pineapple guava (feijoa) may be possible in zone 7 or 8, particularly if extra measures are taken to keep them protected in the winter – such as covering them with frost blankets. 

And then there are heat-loving trees. These ones aren’t happy in the cold, risk death if they’re exposed to freezing conditions, and provide the most bountiful fruit in warm conditions. Fruit trees rated for zones 9-11 include: loquats, avocado, citrus, lychee, and tropical guava. The most picky heat-lovers of them all are mangoes, bananas, papayas, and cashews – who are happiest in zones 10b-11. Many of the fruit trees listed for colder zones can potentially be grown in higher zones too, as long as any chill requirements are met. 

Our old Meyer Lemon, another tree that was well-established when we moved in. Dreaming of citrus? Dwarf lemon trees are a great option for containers!


Growing Trees in Containers


Providing adequate chill hours isn’t something you can fake. But protecting a cold-sensitive tree from freezing weather is something you may be able to do! Growing trees in mobile containers is a great solution for northern gardeners who want a taste of the Tropics or Mediterranean, but can’t provide that climate. Potted trees can be brought indoors or into a greenhouse during the winter months for protection from the cold.  

Planting trees in containers is also an excellent option for folks with limited outdoor space! Similarly, for those who are not in a permanent living situation – as potted trees can be moved with you. You could even keep some potted trees indoors all the time, such as if you live in an apartment.


What trees grow well in pots?


Popular tree choices for containers include: fig trees, bay laurel, olive trees, pineapple guava (feijoa), and citrus trees including lemon, lime, kumquats, and even small oranges. Opt for petite species, or semi-dwarf or dwarf tree varieties. In general, trees that are naturally on the smaller side will be more content when contained. Blueberries are also ideal for containers.

Virtually any type of fruit tree can be found in a dwarf form, so feel free to experiment beyond those few listed above! We have a grafted semi-dwarf espalier Fuji apple tree growing in a large planter box on wheels. It isn’t nearly as fruitful as our in-ground Anna, but it is a beautiful and welcome addition to our patio garden. I have even seen banana trees living in containers!

If you have the choice, most trees are going to be happiest and healthiest when they’re planted in the ground. That’s their jam. But with the right tree selection, a nice large container, and good routine care, potted trees can thrive as well! I will dive more into tips and tricks for growing trees in containers in a future post.

Our dwarf Fuji apple espalier in a large redwood box. Also, a pineapple guava in a half wine barrel to the right. We’ve also grown semi-dwarf fig trees, guavas, and blueberries in half wine barrels.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS


In addition to the general climate that a tree will enjoy, you have to ask yourself: Will you enjoy this tree? Meaning, will it live up to your expectations, and suit your space well? 


Deciduous or Evergreen


Many edible trees are deciduous, meaning they shed their leaves and look a bit bare in the winter time. This includes apples, stone fruit, pears, and nuts. You may be like, “Who cares? Everything looks dead in the winter here anyways…”. On the other hand, maybe some of you are hoping to have a great evergreen tree that also serves as a privacy screen, or blocks something unsightly. This is something we always take into consideration, especially when choosing where to plant what in our garden.

Examples of evergreen fruit trees include avocado, citrus, pineapple guava, loquat, tropical guava, papaya, lychee, and olive trees. Bay Laurels are also evergreen, as are both ornamental and edible. We have two in large ceramic pots on our patio! On the flip side, some gardeners welcome naked trees in the winter. At a time when sunlight is already sparse, bare trees reduce shade and let more light through to other areas in need!

Our back yard garden in the middle of winter. The lemon is evergreen, but the fig to the left of it has lost its leaves for the winter. We don’t mind the bare tree in this spot! That Desert King fig is getting quite large now, and would shade the pollinator island in the center in the winter. In the two stone circles in the middle of the pollinator island are a kumquat and finger lime tree. They’re both dwarf varieties – a great choice for the middle of a landscaped space like this.


Cross-Pollination


Does your new tree want a buddy? When you’re tree shopping and doing your homework, take note if the tree of interest is described as “self-fertile” or not! This is also referred to as “self-fruitful”. Self-fertile trees pollinate themselves, and therefore do just fine when planted solo.

However, many fruit tree varieties need a partner tree cross-pollinate and successfully set fruit. Trees that require cross-pollination should be paired with a different variety of the same type of tree (e.g. two different varieties of apples) that have an overlapping bloom time. Most tree retailers or nurseries should provide a list of compatible companions for each variety they offer.

Other fruit tree varieties may fall somewhere in between, referred to as partially self-fertile. Those don’t necessarily need a partner tree, but will be significantly more productive if they have one! Even self-fruitful trees will bear more bountiful fruit if another compatible variety is planted nearby. 

Do you live in a neighborhood with a lot of fruit trees, or maybe even have a farm or orchard nearby? Bees, birds, other pollinators, or even the wind can carry pollen several blocks. It is often said that if one of your close neighbors has the type of fruit tree needed for cross-pollination, that could do the trick for you! 


Which types of fruit trees are self-fertile?


Apricots, peaches, pomegranates, figs, citrus, papaya, tropical guava, loquat and nearly all persimmon trees are self-fruitful. Some plums need a partner, but the popular Santa Rosa Plum is known to be self-fertile. Several quality apple tree varieties, including Anna, Golden Delicious, and Granny Smith are also self-pollinating and very productive when grown on their own! Other varieties of plum or apple may need a pollinator partner, so be sure to check. 

Many pear trees are considered partially self-fertile, but perform best with a friend. Asian pears are the most self-fruitful. Nearly all nut trees should be planted with a second tree for cross-pollination, with the exception of pecans (self-pollinated by the wind) or an “all-in-one” almond tree. Elderberry, blueberries, cherries, and pineapple guava also like to have friends around for pollination.

Avocado varieties are split into two groups: Type A and Type B. Each group’s male and female flower parts open at different times of day. Studies show that avocado fruit set increased by 40 to 150 percent when A-type and B-type varieties were grown close together! Type A avocados include the most popular – Hass- along with Mexicola and Stewart. In contrast, Fuerte, Bacon, SurPrize, and Zutano fall into Type B. We have two from each group!

Avocado flowers. This is our Hass, a Type A. UPDATE: I’ve since written an Avocado Grow Guide if you’re interested to learn more!


Growth Habits


Another thing to consider is: What will this tree look like in 10 years? How about 20 years? 30 years from now? If you plan to be in your home for a while (which I assume may be true, if you’re here thinking about planting some roots!) then you need to ask yourself these questions.

What is the average size of the variety you’re scoping out? How fast will it grow? Will it potentially shade out your yard, blocking the sun for your garden? How about its root system? Are they super invasive, risking damage to nearby structures or water lines? Additionally, does it tend to sprawl and spread, or stay more tight and upright?

Thankfully, most trees take well to pruning. Yet that begs the question: Are you prepared to maintain and manage a large tree? If a large canopy, shade, and maintenance don’t sound ideal to you, look into naturally smaller trees, slow-growing trees, or dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties. 

On the other hand, maybe a huge tree is just what you’re looking for! When we chose our California Pepper tree, we did so specifically because it would grow large, and fast. It was the replacement for a privacy screen that had died on our property, leaving a big gaping hole between us and our two-story neighbor.  Folks with large, open properties won’t need to worry about this as much. Plant yourself an orchard!

The big tree to the left of the house is our California Pepper Tree. See the neighbor behind her? Yeah, I barely do either. That was the point! While her orientation isn’t usually ideal, planted in the southeast corner of the yard, the tall houses to the left of us cast shade on the yard in the morning anyways. And now, we don’t have to look at them!


To avoid casting too much shade on the rest of your garden locate large trees carefully. If you live in the northern hemisphere, planting them on the north side of your yard will ensure they cast as little shade as possible, as the sun sinks lower on the southern horizon much of the year. This is called a “south-facing” orientation. Keeping smaller trees in the middle of a yard and larger ones closer to walls, fences, or other tall perimeter objects also accomplishes the same goal. 

Avocado trees can get HUGE. This Hass may reach up to 30 feet or higher one day, many years from now! So she is tucked near the fence line on the north east side of our yard, where she will cast the least shade over time. The majority of the sun comes from over the house, south.


Think outside the box

I have named some pretty common types of edible trees so far, but there are even more unique types out there! For example, trees can come multi-grafted, with many varieties of one kind of fruit growing from the same main trunk. You can embark on training your tree, such as into a flat espalier shape to grow in rows or against a wall. We purchased our apple espalier already trained. If you have space to play, look into what type of rare and exotic fruits could grow well in your area.

A happy girl and her Mulberry tree. See, I really wanted a Mulberry tree… but knew we had NO decent space for this classically huge tree. My heart skipped a beat when I saw this dwarf weeping mulberry at our local nursery. Of course we snagged her!


WHERE TO SOURCE FRUIT OR ORNAMENTAL TREES

Local Nursery


We are fortunate to live near a few awesome locally-owned nurseries, so we always buy our trees in person. The benefit of shopping with a local nursery (aside from supporting a local business!) is that they will carry tree varieties that grow well in your area. I still suggest doing your homework to verify, but any good nursery should follow this practice. Big box garden centers also stock fruit trees, but be even more thorough in your research then (since they’ll carry just about anything).

However, don’t feel limited to what the nursery has in stock! There have been numerous times that our favorite garden centers didn’t readily carry a type of tree we wanted, or one the size we hoped for, so they special-ordered it for us. Don’t be shy to ask questions! Some even offer delivery services. 

Tree Condition and Size


When you’re at the nursery, try to choose a tree with a good shape, structure, and generally looks healthy. Avoid those with signs of pest or disease issues. When it comes to picking out trees, I admit that I’m pretty impatient and generally go for larger trees (in 5 to 15 gallon pots) over small bare root options. Trees that are already a few years old at the time of purchase will bear fruit much sooner.

However, bigger isn’t always better! If a large tree is kept in a small pot too long, it will become root bound and stunted. Look for bulging, tight pots with roots poking out the bottom. In that scenario, I would opt for a smaller, healthier tree instead. Smaller trees and bare root trees are also much more affordable – and will catch up!

Can you tell how much I love bringing new tree babies into the garden? This was our first avocado tree, and I was STOKED! You can see a peek of the Sycamore on the far left, and a dwarf magnolia behind me on the right. Again, almost all of our trees are lined up on the north side of our front yard garden to avoid shading it out.


Online Options


In lieu of physically picking out your tree, there are many reputable online nurseries who sell trees. Commonly, these trees are sold as small “whips” (stick-like) or bare root due to shipping, but that isn’t a bad thing! Because I don’t have experience in this arena, I can’t say too much else on the subject. Have you purchased a tree online? Please share your experience in the comments!

Some reputable online nurseries include:


Can I grow a fruit tree from seed? 


Sure, you can. Or at least, you can try… But let’s clarify a few things before you start down that road. Unfortunately, the seed and resulting seedling from a given tree doesn’t always “breed true”. Meaning, it won’t necessarily have all of the same characteristics of the adult tree the seed came from. They may grow very differently, and some may not bear fruit at all! Others will be more or less susceptible to disease than the parent. This is typically a result of cross-pollination. The seed offspring is a hybrid. 

Rather than growing from seed, tree nurseries start with a strong root stock (possibly disease-resistant) and graft a cutting from the desired variety on top. An experienced gardener may do the grafting themselves. But that is beyond what we’re talking about today. 

When growing from seed, time is also a huge factor. You know that cute sprouting avocado pit you have suspended in water in your kitchen window? I hate to burst your bubble… but it will be 10 to 15 years until that thing produces any fruit! And again, it may be quite different from the parent tree you were lusting after.   Personally, I find buying an established and reliable baby tree well worth the investment. 


And now you know the factors to consider when choosing trees for your garden.


What do you think? Do you feel armed and ready to go tree shopping? As you can see, there are TONS of options out there! Surely there is a perfect choice for your home. After you make an educated decision and bring a new tree one home, be sure to check out this follow-up article: how to plant a tree! It covers the best practices of tree planting along with some tips we’ve learned over the years, like how to protect trees from gophers. Happy tree shopping! 


You may also like:


Garden Guides | Evergreen Fruit Trees

TraceRouda/iStock/Getty Images

Many deciduous fruit trees in North America, like the apple and the pear, shed their leaves every fall. But others, most of them tropical imports, are fruit-bearing evergreens. They provide year-around foliage and edible treats in locations that have warm summers and cool, but not frosty, winters.

Avocado Tree

Native to Central America, the avocado (Persea Americana), is an evergreen that grows best in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 10 to 12. The tree typically grows between 30 and 60 feet tall with a spread of 20 to 30 feet. Avocados prefer full sun and are intolerant of frost. They prefer soil that is well drained, evenly moist and organically rich. The leaves are dark green, glossy and between 4 and 8 inches long. Clusters of greenish-yellow flowers appear, later producing fruits that are large, green skinned and round or pear shaped. Flowering season depends on the variety. In the United States, avocados are commercially grown mostly in California and southern Florida.

DanielAzocar/iStock/Getty Images

Mango Tree

A Mango tree (Mangifera indica), USDA zones 10B to 11, is another tropical import that does well in hot climates. These trees grow between 30 and 45 feet tall and up to 50 feet wide, needing plenty of growing space. Fruits are oval, between 3 and 6 inches long, fleshy and covered with green, red and yellow skins. Whitish gray flowers emerge between March and early April. Mangoes prefer full sun and tolerate various well-drained soils.

The foliage needs pruning to keep it from getting out of hand. Branches have thorns, so wear gloves, a hat, protective eye wear, long-sleeved shirt and pants and closed-toe shoes when pruning. In central and south Florida, mango is considered to be potentially invasive because of its fast growth.

Mango trees need to be strategically placed because the fruit often falls off the tree. Twigs, leaves and flowers often litter lawns. Placing the tree in a garden bed among other plants will help hide the mess.

pinkasorn2013/iStock/Getty Images

Lychee Tree

The lychee tree (Litchi chinensis), USDA zones 10 to 11, is an import from Southern China. It grows to between 15 and 30 feet tall and has a spread of 15 to 25 feet. Lychee prefers full sun and well-drained, but consistently moist, organically rich, acidic soils. Panicles, elongated clusters of yellow flowers, bloom between April and May, with the fruits maturing usually from June to July. Occasionally, the tree will fruit until September. When ripe, the ovoid fruits have a red skin and translucent white flesh. It may be eaten fresh or processed by drying, pickling or freezing. A common alternate spelling is litchi.

Jupiterimages/PHOTOS.com>>/Getty Images

Olive Tree

The olive tree (Olea europaea) USDA zones 8 to 10, is a Mediterranean import that prefers full sun and well-drained, moderately moist, fertile soils. The tree does best in locations with hot dry summers and mild, but wet, winters. Without at least two months of temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, olive trees don't flower. Bloom time is from June to July, when clusters of tiny white, fragrant flowers blossom. Fruits appear as oval green drupes up to 1 1/2 inches long. When ripe, they turn black. Trees grow between 20 and 30 feet tall and between 15 and 25 feet wide.

Shef-time/iStock/Getty Images

Loquat Tree

The loquat tree (Eriobotrya japonica), USDA zones 8 to 10, is a native of China and Japan. It grows from 10 to 25 feet tall with a spread of 10 to 25 feet. Loquat trees prefer full sun to partial shade and well-drained, organically rich, evenly moist, loamy soils. Leaves are lance-like, up to 12 inches long and are dark green on the upper side and lighter green on the lower. White, fragrant flowers appear in long clusters, or panicles, up to 6 inches long. The pear-shaped to spherically shaped fruits, roughly 1 to 2 inches long, have a downy, yellow-to-orange skin. The fleshy inside has one or more large seeds. Fruits are eaten fresh or turned into preserves or other edibles.

In colder climates, the loquat may be grown as a houseplant but it may not flower. The plant does best when placed in a sunny window and when the house temperature is between 50 to 70 degrees F. In summer, the container may be moved outside.

fotoluk1983/iStock/Getty Images

Lemon Tree

Lemon trees (Citrus limon), USDA zones 9 to 11, are part of the citrus family. They grow between 10 and 20 feet tall and have a spread of 10 to 15 feet. Young trees have reddish leaves, which turn green when mature: darker green on top with a lighter green below. This seasonal bloomer produces fragrant white and purple flowers, either as single blooms or in small groups. The resulting fruit is oval, yellow skinned and fragrant. Oil glands on the skin's surface give the fruit a pebbly appearance. Lemon trees love full sun, wind-protected areas and well-drained fertile soils. When fruiting, they need lots of water.

Lemon trees may be grown indoors in containers as long as they are placed in well-lit locations that aren't too hot. Pinching and pruning controls the size. They need to be pulled outside in May so the flowers may be pollinated. In the fall, bring the trees back inside. It takes longer for the fruit of indoor lemon trees to mature, sometimes as much as a year.

+12 names of evergreen trees | Gardening

Image - Flickr / Salomé Bielsa

Evergreen trees, also called evergreens or perennials, are great: they allow us to have a garden protected from direct sunlight throughout the year, and with them, we guarantee privacy and security is what we all want to have in our green paradise.

For this reason, we have selected for you a choice that you will definitely like. These Baileyana Acacia or Saligna Acacia which are the most resistant to cold (even -7ºC ) and they are all thriving which is nice to see. When? Spring-summer.

Of course, these are sunny trees that tolerate drought well, but are afraid of floods.

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Brachychiton

Image - Wikimedia / John Tann from Sydney, Australia // Brachychiton vernacular

Brachychiton These are very fast growing trees that can not only withstand drought, but also moderate frosts (up to -4ºC ). They reach a height of 8 to 20 meters. There are many species, among them Brachichiton folk , Brachichiton acerifolius Or Brachichiton bidvilli . All of them can be grown in gardens with limestone soil and good drainage.

Important: Some species may shed their leaves from part of their canopy once a year or every few years, especially if the winter has been cool and/or dry. For example, I can tell you that I have three B. folk in the garden, and in winter they always have only half the leaves for a few weeks.

spatodea

And we get a tropical tree, Tulip tree from Gabon. It grows up to 10m tall and has showy red flowers. Its growth rate is very high, about 50 cm/year. Unfortunately, can only be grown in hot climates without frost.

Shade Evergreens

Ceratonia Siliqua

El carob This is a fruit tree that grows up to 6-7 meters in height , with a wide crown up to 4-5m. The growth rate is medium-fast, even if there is little rain.

In fact it tolerates drought very well, but not severe frosts: only up to -3 or -4ºC if these are short-term frosts.

Magnolia grandiflora

Image - Flickr / Cathy Flanagan

La magnolia or magnolia is a tree that reaches 30 meters and has a very, very dense crown formed by large dark green leaves. In spring, large white fragrant flowers sprout, the size of which, without exaggeration (I have one in the yard), is about 25 centimeters.

It is beautiful but requires a temperate climate and low pH soils, 4 to 6. It is afraid of limestone. Otherwise, can withstand up to -18ºC .

cork oak

Image - Wikimedia / Jean-Paul GRANMONT

El cork oak is an evergreen tree that reaches 25 meters in height . Its crown is characterized by the fact that it is formed by numerous branches, from which many green leaves sprout. Thanks to this, over the years it gives a very beautiful shade. It grows in fertile soils as long as the climate is temperate.

Resistant to frost down to -18ºС.

Cold climate evergreens

Callistemon viminalis

El wet pipe cleaner It is a small tree or large shrub that grows from 4 to 10 meters in height . He usually has only one trunk, but may have several. The crown is irregular, with hanging branches, from which more or less linear green leaves grow. Its flowers resemble a chimney brush, giving it its name, and are red in color.

Likes a temperate climate, where it grows on almost all types of soil. Withstands frost down to -7ºС. although he may need some protection when he is young.

Laurus nobilis

El noble laurel This is a tree or small tree that reaches 5-10 meters in height , with a more or less straight trunk and dense crown. Its leaves are bluish, lanceolate and fragrant, so they are widely used in cooking as a seasoning.

This is a typical Mediterranean plant, but don't be fooled: easily tolerates frosts down to -12°C .

Prunus laurocerassus

Laurocerase o cherry laurel is a tree or shrub native to Laurisilva that reaches 6 meters in height . Its leaves are bright green, leathery, about 10 centimeters long. It produces white flowers in clusters and they are fragrant. The fruits are berries containing seeds that should not be eaten as they are poisonous.

It grows on all types of soil and in a wide variety of climates, from warm to cold with frost. Maintains temperatures down to -18ºC.

Evergreen fruit trees

Anacarid occult

El anacardo This is a tree or small tree that grows from 5 to 7 meters in height . Its trunk forks at a low height, making it very interesting as a medium height hedge. Its leaves are green and broad, and it produces nuts suitable for human consumption.

Works well in frost-free tropical climates or in greenhouses. The soil must be fertile, with a pH between 6 and 8.

Citrus fruits

Citrus fruits, i.e. orange trees, lemon trees, tangerines, pomelos, etc., evergreen trees or seedlings that reach a height of 5 to 15 meters . In spring and summer, they produce very fragrant white flowers and globular fruits.

They grow in tropical, subtropical and warm temperate climates. at moderate frosts, on soils rich in organic matter.

Perseus americana

Image - Flickr / Mauricio Mercadante

El avocado is a tree that reaches 20 meters in height . It has an elongated crown, spherical or bell-shaped, formed by green leaves. It blooms in the spring, and if another specimen of the opposite sex is nearby or grafted, it will produce fruits called berries, 7 to 33 centimeters long and up to 15 centimeters wide.

It will thrive in tropical and subtropical climates, in bright sunshine and on fertile land. Unfortunately does not withstand frost .

Which one did you like best?


We prepare fruit trees for wintering, evergreen plants and shrubs

06 09.18

Author: ALLA

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1 9000. after the fruits are harvested, the roots are dug up, and only frost-resistant autumn flowers remain on the beds, it is time to prepare the garden for the cold period.

What activities are mandatory, what should be given special attention, how autumn preparation will affect the harvest and the state of the garden next year - we will consider these issues in the proposed material.

Fruit trees: leaf collection, pruning, processing, watering and protection

The remains of fruits from fruit trees are collected at the end of October, the carrion is buried at the edge of the garden, and the trunks and branches are inspected for damage to the bark.

Fallen leaves

The trees have shed their leaves, and a rustling yellow carpet has formed underfoot - it's time to start harvesting the leaves. At the edge of the garden, they dig a compost pit, where they place all the collected foliage. To make a useful fertilizer for fruit trees next year, a bunch of leaves are sprinkled with lime.

Do not burn leaves to avoid damaging the environment and disturbing the neighbors. It is especially important not to leave fallen leaves near the trunks of fruit trees if traces of powdery mildew or scab have been noticed on them.

Pruning

Fruit trees are pruned before frost, having improved a dry sunny day for this purpose. Also get rid of dry broken or improperly growing branches. The shoots are cut as carefully as possible, leaving smooth tears, which are carefully cleaned and treated with a weak solution of copper sulphate. Such foresight is necessary to prevent the growth of wood bacteria. Dead bark, moss and lichen are necessarily removed from the trunks. Harvesting belts are removed from the crowns of trees.

Insecticide treatment and loosening of the soil

If the trunk, branches or fallen leaves show that the tree has a fungal infection, it should be completely treated with a 4% solution of boric liquid.

Spraying trees and shrubs with a solution of urea will protect the garden from the spread of spores of bacteria that cause diseases such as powdery mildew, coccomycosis and scab. Loosening the near-stem soil circle is one of the methods for protecting plants from larvae that live in its upper layer.

Protection against rodents and whitewashing of trunks

You can protect the trunk of a young tree from rodents that feed on bark with the help of women's nylon tights: they wrap the tree from the ground to a height of 50 cm.

Whitewashing of the trunk protects not only from rodents, but and from sunburn, which can occur as a result of spring solar activity. The trunk is whitened only after thorough cleaning and inspection, starting from the base and up to the height of the lower branches.

Shrubs

Autumn pruning of shrubs includes: removal of dry and diseased branches, excess shoots. As in the case of fruit plants, I treat fresh sections with a solution of copper sulfate at the rate of: 1 tbsp. l. for 1 liter of water.

Old shoots of some fruit bushes are cut off, leaving only annuals in order to get a good harvest the next year. The same goes for grapes.

Evergreens

Not a single winter fairy tale can do without snow-covered fir trees, but in real life, snow cover is more likely to harm coniferous plants. Snow mass, especially with an ice crust, deforms and damages the crowns of thujas, spruces and other evergreens.

To prevent damage to the crown, the branches are carefully cut, and after a snowfall, the snow masses are shaken off by hand.

Sheltering plants

Many fruit plants and garden flowers are very frost sensitive and need to be covered. The simplest covering materials: spruce branches, peat, straw and burlap. Among the special ones, one can single out agrospan or lutrasil.

We have provided general recommendations to help prepare your garden for winter, but keep in mind that each plant, especially exotic ones, needs a special, personal approach to properly prepare for the upcoming winter.

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