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Deck edge detail


10 best ways to edge a deck |

Deck edging ideas are often overlooked at design stage, but they are just as important as all the other details of a deck, giving it a finished, smart look. Without them, even the most well-designed decking projects can feel a little unfinished, especially if they butt against a wall or fence with no defining feature to sign off with at the edges. 

Frame your decking with the right edging, though, and it will create a seamless and professional-looking finish, as well as adding a personal touch that's uniquely yours, so that your deck won't look like every other one on the block.

There are lots of brilliant deck edging ideas to finish off your deck ideas. Try adding a patterned border, lighting panels, low-growing plants in beds to soften edges or built in seating. We've rounded up 10 of our favorite deck edging looks below.

Deck edging ideas

It's worth considering deck edging ideas at design stage, since they can be matched to both deck railing ideas and even deck color ideas. That said, deck edging needn't be in timber – edging can be in contrasting materials, too. Below, we explore the options.

1. Mix up deck materials to add more interest

The Style and Design Garden designed by Ula Maria and built by The `Landscaping Consultants

(Image credit: Alamy)

Using a carefully thought out mix of quality materials to create a decked area will transform a small space. This courtyard garden features a timber deck flanked with beds of herbaceous plants and ornamental grasses to soften the edges. 

The dark timber deck has been charred (rather than stained) using a Japanese technique and contrasts beautifully with the hazy planting spilling over the edges. There are steps down to a sunken garden with a tiled mosaic patio that means the deck is raised to show it off better.

This backyard is a great example of how to mix contemporary materials and eclectic planting to create a deck that's full of contrast and character.

2. Try a modern patterned border

DeckArt boards by Gripsure let you create a decorative edge that can be customised to make a striking border for your deck

(Image credit: Gripsure)

If you are looking for pool landscaping ideas with decking, defined deck edging can look attractive. Both composite and timber deck edging can be a great choice for a pool, offering a laid-back yet smart look. It's the perfect opportunity to add a distinctive border too with a design detail that will transform your deck into something special.

When it comes to poolside it's best to choose deck edging that doesn't become slippery when wet. This distinctive geometric border has integrated non-slip inserts that add a pretty decorative edging to your deck making it practical as well as pretty.

'When cutting timber to use as an edging board, always make sure you have a sharp saw blade to give a nice clean cut,' says Ross Crouch of Gripsure . 'If you can, miter any joints so you have no exposed end grain.  Any timber that's in permanent ground contact should either have an appropriate level of pressure treatment or a protective coating applied.' 

Instead of horizontal patterned deck edging, why not consider a vertical border to add an alternative decorative detail to your deck that's both eye catching and unusual?

3. Soften hard deck edges with planting

Courtyard garden design with curved deck fringed with soft planting by Catherine Clancy Garden Design

(Image credit: Catherine Clancey Garden Design)

There is a big trend for curves right now and you can pick up on this by combining decking edging design and deck planting ideas. This style looks more organic than the straight lines of square or rectangular decks, fitting more naturally into an unstructured garden shape. Even better if your curved deck is bordered by swathes of soft planting to blur the edges.

'Shade loving Japanese forest grass and a mixture of evergreen ferns are used in this garden to soften the hard edges of the decking, walls and the areas under the built-in seat,' explains garden designer Catherine Clancy.  

'Use mostly evergreen plants, with different shades of green to provide a soft texture around your decking. Grasses provide an extra softness to any planting, and there are plenty of shade loving low-growing grasses to choose from that work well for deck edging ideas like Japanese forest grass Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola', Carex 'Ice Dance' and tall moor grass (sesleria autumnalis).' 

4. Insert light panels for an ambient setting

Light panels on decked roof gardens and terraces add ambient lighting at night as it floods up from below

(Image credit: Future)

If you have a roof terrace with a deck think about adding some glass roof panel lights as a stylish edging idea. They are built to walk on while flooding fantastic levels of natural daylight into the interiors below. This reverses at night if the room below is lit – creating secondary backyard lighting ideas.

Creating a border can turn your deck edging ideas into more of an eye-catching and individual feature.  Roof panel lights add a neat edge that introduces a designer feel and enhances your enjoyment of your deck space at night so it's a good investment. As well as being practical they also help to throw diffused light through your planting for a magical touch in the evening.

5. Edge the deck with neat borders

Mix up your decking by interspersing it with smart beds

(Image credit: Annaick Guitteny/Future)

You could play safe and opt for a uniform area of decking. Or you could try adding planting beds into the deck’s structure for a more interesting approach that looks super smart while at the same time maxes up your growing space. After all, you can never have too many plants.

Add a geometric element by using clipped box to create a framework for your border areas then introduce structure and texture with a mix of planting to fill in the detail. A bed of smooth stones is one of our favorite deck edging ideas, adding an interesting element as it works as a backdrop to enhance a display of sculptural foliage such as these pointy leaves.  

This combination of deck edging ideas creates the perfect spot for your yoga mat.

6. Use pavers to border a deck area

This mix of limestone and Ipe decking is stylish as well as helping to create zoned areas for different uses. Design by Kate Gould Gardens

(Image credit: Kate Gould Gardens)

'All materials in gardens (especially small ones) benefit from definition and this is often easiest with an edging detail,' says garden designer Kate Gould . 'This could be brick, stone or even metal. Whatever you do, make it strong and bold, and be sure that the finish looks crisp and neat as it's such a key highlighting feature.' 

In this wonderfully original garden design by Kate a section of ipe decking is inserted into an area of limestone paving, and edged by planters and seating. The wooden decking area becomes the central attraction, in the same way as a rug works in an interior design scheme.

For small garden decking ideas, all spaces are important, and deck edging ideas can be used as a focal point and even as a way of making the area look bigger. 'Here the bench is cantilevered,' explains Kate, 'so the floor continues underneath making the space feel larger and allowing lighting to be incorporated.' 

Penthouse deck by LLI Design using different tones of decking wood to create a grid pattern

(Image credit: LLI Design)

'When designing this wraparound sky garden for a penthouse project, we decided to zone separate areas, mixing decking and tiles together,' explains Linda Levene, co-founder and design director of LLI Design . 

'For the decking we chose an ipe hardwood, in two tones, one lighter and the other edge piece, darker. We wanted to create something more interesting than just linear planks for the decked area and achieved this by mixing the different tones of decking to form a grid pattern, which added visual interest and visually connected to the architecture of the building, creating a seamless aesthetic.'

Soft but purposeful outdoor lighting adds another dimension to the deck at night, helping to extend the view from the interior. 'This was especially important when creating the lighting scheme for the deck as the penthouse had glass on three sides,' says Linda. 'We gently washed the low-growing planting with warm white, spike lights in the planters, and added drama by uplighting specimen plants and trees emphasising their form, structure and texture.'

8. Edge raised decking to add the standout factor

(Image credit: Jane Gilmour/Future)

If you want to create a deck walkway in your backyard it needs to be enhanced by its surroundings as a simple drop down to the grass or planting beds will look unfinished. Stage your raised deck in the right way and it will become the focal point of your garden.

Use a combination of low level planting beds, reflective water pools and sections of smooth stones to create a contemporary look that will really help your deck stand out. You can also use a variety of white, gray and black stones to get a contrasting effect for your deck.

These deck edging ideas are further enhanced if you introduce a contrasting shade of wood to run down each side of the decking walkway.  

9. Integrate a pergola into your decking 

(Image credit: Future)

Pergolas are one of the best deck edging ideas to upgrade your space into more of a destination than just somewhere you walk through. It's a great idea for poolside decks too.

You can buy easy-assembly decking kits that include integral pergolas to transform your deck into a stylish living area. They come complete will everything you need to create a beautifully crafted decking area with integral pergola and require no foundations or advance preparation.

Sounds like a great idea to take your deck edging ideas up a level.

10. Build in matching seating for a co-ordinated look

Wall painted in Little Greene Intelligent Masonry Paint in Tivoli

(Image credit: Little Greene)

A design that combines seating and plants is one of our favorite deck edging ideas that's perfect for the backyard. Using the same wood for the deck, seating and planters creates a coordinated look that's both practical and stylish. Be sure to sand the wood to avoid splinters and treat it to make sure it lasts.

Building in matching seating to your deck looks spectacular. Not only can you create seating easily using your decking boards, it's also an affordable option and you can customize it to include storage space under your seats for cushions and other garden equipment. This is a great idea for small gardens.

Then all you need to do is paint the backdrop in a stunning shade and add some co-ordinating accessories.

How do you edge a deck?

In addition to using deck edging ideas like integral seating, low level planting and lighting panels, you can also create a border around the edge of the deck with fascia boards to give an attractive finish. Corner trims are also available.

Durable edge and corner trims let you cap-off edges, corners and exposed areas of decks or steps, enabling you to seal your new decking area for a smart finish. 

Another effective method of finishing a deck surface is to install a trim board around the perimeter. Also known as picture framing or racetrack decking, this is the technique where perimeter boards are laid parallel to the edge of the deck frame, in areas where the ends of the decking boards are exposed. 

Perimeter boards cover the butt ends of your deck, which gives a smarter appearance and serves as a contrasting edge trim. Do it well and adding a border to the perimeter of a deck is a great way to up the quality a notch.

The trim known as skirting offers most decking projects a perfect edging solution, allowing you to cover the side of the boards and the exposed subframe, resulting in a well-made deck. For raised projects, it's even possible to stack skirting trims on top of one another to get to the necessary height.

Although your deck is the real star of the show, no deck design is complete without skirting and there are lots of deck edging ideas to choose from. Proper deck skirting allows for ventilation to guard against mold and rot. The deck skirt disguises the area beneath an elevated deck and can also provide cover if you intend to use the space below for storage.

Deck skirting can be made of lattice, wood, stone, or several types of composite materials to add a lovely design element.

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Deck decking

Tags: hull, deck

On wooden ships, the decking (Fig. 1) and especially the waterway and the waterway block to a large extent determined the longitudinal strength and resistance of the hull to deflection. Therefore, these elements of the set had a large cross-section along the entire length of the vessel. A slight gradual decrease in the cross section was allowed only at the extremities.

Fig. 1-a. Deck flooring of a wooden vessel:

1, 2, 8 - waterway bars; 3 - hatch; 4 - beam; 5 — hatch coaming; 6 - cutout for cutting; 7 - connecting belt; 9 - wedge; 10 - wooden dowel; 11 - wooden cork; 12 - bolt;

Fig. 1-b. Deck flooring for iron and composite ships:

1— wooden or iron waterway waterway; 2 - teak framing of the deck; 3 - lining under the wheelhouse; 4 - diagonal connection; 5 — side stringer; 6 - iron beams; 7 - iron or wooden manhole cover; 8 - detail of the waterway and deck flooring; 9- 3 or 4 belts between joints; 10 - mast edging; 11— flooring belt around the cabin; 12 — wooden hatch coaming; 13 - iron carlings; 14 - iron coaming.

Along the longitudinal edges of the hatches, from bow to stern, additional belts of decking extended. They were not broken by any cutouts. The boards of these belts were either cut into the beams flush with the deck plating, or made slightly protruding. In the latter case, the lining between these belts was raised so that a recess was not formed for the accumulation of water.
Additional belts were slightly curved, as were the contours of the deck itself. The lining between them and the waterway bars was laid parallel to them or with a slight bevel to the ends, so that the outer chords were as long as possible. As a result, due to the continuous belts, the maximum longitudinal strength was given to the flooring.
The inner edge of the waterway bar was a continuous curved plane.
To ensure the high quality of caulking and fastening, the ends of the sheathing boards were made rectangular with a width of about 6 cm, due to which it was convenient to work with a shank. Holes for pins slightly weakened the board. The adjacent board had a notch that met the end of the previous board, and so on, until the ends of the boards met at an angle of about 30°. The resulting seam could be well caulked. The flooring of the middle part of the deck had to be made of short boards - it was interrupted by hatches, deck scuppers, partners, etc. These cutouts were enclosed by vertical longitudinal and transverse coamings, the first of which were bolted to the carlings, and the second were included in the beveled cutouts of the ends of the flooring boards, reaching the notch. If the beams along the edges of the hatch had sufficient width, then the transverse coamings were laid directly on them.
Under the deckhouses, the flooring was solid, and around the deckhouses a shallow, beveled groove was made, which made it possible to caulk and tar the gap between the deckhouse and the deck. The mast was surrounded by coamings, since the mast cushion provided sufficient support for both the ends of the planks of the planks and for the coaming beams.
The deck boards were sewn to the beams with dowels, which were wedged with hardwood wedges and then cut flush with the deck. Because the dowels and wedges were cut across the grain, they were more wear-resistant than planks, and on older ships, they would appear as rounded bumps until they were cut down. Sometimes iron nails were used instead of dowels; their hats were sunk into pre-drilled holes, which were clogged with corks.
On iron and composite ships, the decking was made differently. Longitudinal strength was provided mainly by the metal elements of the set. Metal sheerstrake and underdeck stringers replaced wooden waterways and waterway bars, although the latter were sometimes made to complement the metal elements. Instead of wooden additional longitudinal belts of the deck flooring, metal ones appeared, fastened with diagonal underdeck sheets. Therefore, the deck plating itself did not play a large role in providing longitudinal strength and it was not necessary to make the edge boards as long as possible. Their ends were rectangular only for the convenience of caulking, and the ledges were cut out not in them, but in a waterway bar. If the contours of the deck had a large curvature, the extreme boards were bevelled. Basically, the floorboards were made straight and parallel to each other.
The designers of wooden boats had different rules for determining the dimensions of the beveled and straight edges of the outer boards of the deck, depending on the width of the boards themselves. Since the width could vary from 10 to 20 cm (the width of typical boards reaches 23 cm), then on composite and iron ships such complex trimming of the edges could lead to an unreasonably large number of cuts in the waterway block. Therefore, for reasons of convenience of caulking, the minimum edge width was taken equal to 6 cm.
Manholes, hatches were bordered around the perimeter with wide sheets, to which coamings were attached with the help of squares. A teak or pine waterway block was laid around the coaming, which was slightly thicker than the deck flooring and had a bevel to the deck, and the flooring itself was laid end-to-end with the bar. In the same way, coamings were made around gangways, fans, cuttings, etc.
In the case of pine decking, the timbers were made from teak whenever possible, as it would not rust when in contact with the metal. Even if the wooden coamings of hatches or deckhouses were placed directly on iron plates, they were sheathed around them with bevelled teak, because otherwise water accumulated near the coamings and the wood began to rot. In the manufacture of deck decking entirely from teak, the bars served as decoration, and the deckhouse was placed in grooves cut into the decking.
Under the iron bollards, as well as under the spiers and windlasses, teak linings about 5 cm thick were placed; additional boards sheathed the deck around the masts and under the coffee slats.
The edges of the forecastle deck, forecastle cuts and poop were sometimes sewn up with teak boards about 2.5 cm thick with beveled or rounded edges. In this case, the ends of the boards were covered with a bar of semicircular cross section.
On ships that had pine decking, often the deckhouse was not placed in cutouts in the decking directly on the beams, but teak boards about 5 cm thick were cut into the decking to a depth of about 2.5 cm around the deckhouse perimeter and a deckhouse was already placed on them. The edges of the teak boards protruding above the deck were cut or rounded, and thus the water flowing down from the walls of the cabin did not fall into the seams.
Wooden flooring was fastened to the iron reinforcing deck sheets with metal bolts, onto which nuts were screwed from below. The heads of the bolts were sunk into the floorboards, and the holes were plugged with corks. Corks were cut along the fibers, not across, as on wooden ships. Therefore, they wore out in the same way as the deck boards. The ends of adjacent boards were either joined end-to-end, fastening each of them with bolts, or made beveled or joined into half a tree and fastened with one bolt. In the latter case, the connection, due to the reduced thickness of the ends of the boards, came out weakened.

A sailor told the following story: during a storm in the Mediterranean, he was standing on the bridge of a light cruiser; the ship was struggling to navigate through the storm. Suddenly, one of the deck planks fastened to the steel plating in the bow of the ship jumped up as if it had been fired from a catapult. This case gives some idea of ​​what loads the deck plank fasteners can experience.

Chapter from George Campbell's 'Tea Clippers'

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Marine terms | Sail on a boat

Outrigger is a float attached by transverse beams to the hull of a proa-type sailing vessel on the lee side, or a balancer-counterweight, installed in the same way on the windward side, which serve to ensure stability and heeling.

Backstay is a standing rigging cable that secures the mast in the longitudinal direction from the stern.

Sternpost is a structural detail of a ship with a pointed (whaleboat) stern, on which the ends of the hull plating belts are connected.

Backstay —1. The course of a sailing ship, in which the wind blows from the stern at an angle of 15-85 ° to the DP. - 2. Standing rigging cable, unfastening the mast from the stern at an angle to the DP.

Stock is the rudder axle to which the rudder blade and tiller are attached.

Bank - a cross board that serves as a reinforcement for the hull of the boat, as well as a seat.

Butoks - lines on the "side" projection of the theoretical drawing, obtained by sectioning the ship's hull with vertical planes parallel to the DP.

Beidewind - the course of a sailing ship, in which the wind blows from the bow at an angle from 30 ° (steep wind) to 80 ° (full wind).

Mizzen - sail on the stern mast (mizzen mast).

Beams is a transverse horizontal connection of the ship's hull set, which serves to support the deck and perceive transverse loads that compress the hull from the sides.

Boat is a reinforcing trim sewn into the corners of the sail.

Braces - tackle attached to the butts of the yards and used to turn a straight sail in a horizontal plane.

Breshtuk is a triangular horizontal knit connecting the fenders and the stringer with the stem in the bow of the boat.

Brief is a straight auxiliary sail set with a fair wind on motor and rowing boats.

Brukanets - a piece of canvas that is tied around the mast at the partner to prevent water from entering the wheelhouse.

Bowline — tackle for tightening the leech of a slanting sail or the windward leech of a straight sail.

Bowsprit - a horizontal or inclined bar protruding from the bow of a sailing vessel, which serves to carry forward the bow sails.

Vanta is a standing rigging tackle used to unfasten the mast from the sides.

Guy-putens - parts by means of which the shrouds are attached to the sides or deck.

Waterline is a projection of the section of the ship's hull by a horizontal plane. Structural pressure is given by the surface of the water at the ship's design load.

Windsurfer - see sailboard.

Tack .- 1. The position of the sailing vessel relative to the wind (starboard tack - the wind blows to starboard, port tack - to port). - 2. Guy tack sail. - 3. The path traversed by a sailing vessel between turns when tacking. A short tack with the aim of going into the wind or avoiding an obstacle is called a countertack.

Gulfwind - the course of a sailing vessel in which the wind blows at an angle of approximately 90° to its DP.

Gafel - an inclined pole of the spar, raised up the mast and used to fasten the luff of the sail.

Boom - spar, hinged heel to the mast; serves for fastening the luff of a slanting sail.

Sail hump - the rear part of the skew sail panel extending beyond the line between the head and clew.

Mainmast - with oblique rigging, a sail placed by the luff on the mainmast.

Main halyard - running rigging tackle used to lift the mainsail.

Diametral plane (DP) is a longitudinal vertical plane dividing the ship's hull into two symmetrical parts.

Dirik-fal - running rigging tackle, with the help of which the hafel is raised and held in the desired position.

Trim is the pitch angle of the boat.

Drift - the drift of the vessel under the influence of wind and current.

Bookmark — 1. When building a small vessel, the main unit assembled from the keel, stem and stern. - 2. A tuck on a sail in order to give it the required shape (size and location of the belly).

Wind setting - change in wind direction in the direction opposite to the ship's course.

Cable — a thread from which a rope strand is twisted.

Carlengs is a longitudinal underdeck beam, which, together with the beams, provides deck rigidity.

Catamaran is a vessel consisting of two identical hulls connected by a transverse connection - a bridge.

Keel - the main longitudinal beam of the ship's hull set, installed in the DP from the stem to the stern or transom.

Fin keel - a vertical plate installed under the bottom in the DP to reduce the drift of a sailing vessel under the wind.

Zygomatic keels a variety of fin keel; are installed in pairs on the cheekbones; provide less draft than the fin, but are inferior to it in terms of efficiency.

Keelson is a longitudinal beam of the ship's hull set, which is installed over the frames and connected to the keel through bolts.

Knit is a part of the kit used to connect the hull ties.

Tie is a metal rim with an oval, triangular or round groove, which is embedded in the ogon to protect the cable from chafing.

Spreader is a spacer installed between the mast and the rhomboids.

Krengels - a ring twisted from strands of a thin cable and embedded in the luff of the sail for attaching gear - sheet, tack, etc.

Leventik - non-working position of the sails when the ship is facing the wind.

Lik - edge of the sail.

Likpaz - a recess in the mast or boom, into which the luff of the sail with the lyktros is inserted.

Lyktros — cable sewn to the luff (face) of the sail.

Malka is the angle between the plating plane and the adjoining surface of the framing part, specified by the theoretical drawing of the ship's hull.

Midship frame - cross-section of the ship's hull by a vertical plane in the middle part or at the widest point.

Vessel set - Longitudinal and transverse braces that form the skeleton of the vessel, defining the shape of its hull, providing strength and rigidity of the structure.

Knock - the outer end of a horizontal or inclined spar (boom, hafel).

Head - bolt with ring.

Ogon - loop, braided on tackle.

Main line (OL) - line of the ship's theoretical drawing passing through the lower point of the keel parallel to the waterline plane; the heights of all other lines of the theoretical drawing are counted from the OL.

Stability - the ability of the vessel to return to its initial position - on an even keel or with a constant heel after the termination of external forces.

Payol - removable wooden flooring.

Sailing board is a sports equipment for sailing, consisting of a flat float (board) with a mast hinged to it; standing on the board and holding on to the boom - whishbum, the athlete controls the movement of the mast with a sail and the center of gravity of his own body.

Pillers is a vertical post that supports the beam.

Plaza - a flat platform (floor or shield) on which a life-size theoretical drawing of a ship is drawn or sails are marked.

Plase ordinates - dimensions presented in tabular form, characterizing the position (distance from the DP and OL) of the points of intersection of the Longitudinal lines of the theoretical drawing with the frames.

Gunwale - a board or beam covering the edge of the side of a deckless boat or the upper edge of the bulwark.

Podlegars - a connection along the side of the boat on which the banks rely.

Fender is a strong fender installed along the side outside to protect the skin from impacts or (on boats) inside the hull at the upper ends of the frames to strengthen the set.

Proa is a sailing vessel, the stability of which is provided by an outrigger.

Sail belly — bulge of the sail panel, the shape of which is characterized by the ratio of the sag to the chord.

Pyartners - a hole in the deck, bank through which the mast passes.

Raks — metal rings with which the luff of the sail is attached to the stay.

Spars - the general name of the masts, booms, yards and other trees on the ship. flora are attached to R..

Rack - spar for stretching the sail around corners.

Ray - spar suspended from the middle to the mast to stretch the luff of the direct sail.

Reef bow — a strip of fabric sewn onto the sail parallel to the leech to increase the strength of the panel in the place where it is tied to the boom when taking reefs.

Reefs take — reduce the area of ​​the sail when the wind increases by tying or winding its lower part onto the boom.

Reef seasons - tips with which the sail is laced to the boom when taking reefs.

Reefs - short ties for tying the bottom of the sail to the boom when reefing.

Tiller is a lever that turns the steering wheel.

Yaw - deviate from course due to poor steering or poor ship stability.

Stopper - a device for holding a selected tight cable, for example, a sheet.

Stringer - part of the longitudinal set, a bar installed along the sides and bottom. Cheekbone S. 9 is placed on the cheekbone0035

Running rigging — movable rigging.

Standing rigging - cables used to secure the spars.

Turnbuckle - a device for tightening standing rigging. Screw T. are mainly used. On sailing boats and kayaks, they use the held in. several falls of the cable.

Theoretical drawing - projections of sections of the ship's hull in three mutually perpendicular planes, defining its shape. In conjunction with the table of plaza ordinates, it serves as the basis for marking the details of the hull and skin.

Top - top of the mast.

Topenant - running rigging tackle, used to support the legs of booms, yards, etc.

Toptimbers - side part of the frame, composed of separate parts - futoks.

Trampoline - soft deck of racing and light tourist catamarans, stretched from fabric between the beams of the transverse bridge.

Transom is the flat aft end of the ship's hull.

Trimaran is a vessel consisting of a middle (main) hull and side floats attached to it by transverse beams, which serve to ensure stability and reduce roll.

Leave to the wind - change the course of the sailing vessel to a fuller one.

Handling - the speed of the reaction of the vessel to the rudder.

Course stability is the property of a vessel to maintain its direction of motion.

Wishbom - boom in the form of two arcs covering the sail. Received distribution on sailing boards.

Halyard - running rigging tackle for raising sails or yards.

Faline - rope tied in the bow or stern of the boat for mooring and towing.

Headboard is a rigid plate (usually made of plywood) attached to the headboard of a sail to increase its stiffness and strength.

Head angle of sail - the upper corner of the sail, for which it is raised with a halyard.

Bulwark is a batten or metal profile ribbed along the edge of the deck to prevent people from slipping overboard.

Falshkeel — a longitudinal beam attached to the outside of the hull to the keel. On yachts, the F. has a significant height and serves to counteract drift.

False - a fold on the sail to strengthen the panel.

Floor - a cross-link of the bottom set, connecting the parts of the frame frame and serving for its attachment to the keel.

Floortimbers - the bottom part of the composite frame.

VFD - the course of a sailing vessel directly into the wind.

Forepeak - forward compartment separated by a collision bulkhead.

Forspiegel - bow transom; mainly used on small sailboats.

Stem An inclined or curved beam forming the bow of a vessel; the bow ends of the plating belts are attached to the f.

Footpole - Pole with divisions for measuring shallow depths.

Running end (lopar) - the end of the tackle for which it is chosen.

Mooring line is a rope used for mooring.

Daggerboard - lifting keel; Distinguish dagger Sh., lowered vertically, and folding, rotating on an axis.

Dinghy is a sailboat with a centerboard.

Daggerboard box is a device that houses the centerboard.

Schwerttal - a cable for lifting the centerboard, carried out in several falls.

Daggerboards - Daggerboards hung from the sides.

Luff - edge of the sail.

Flurry - a sudden strong gust of wind.

Sheet -1. Running rigging tackle attached to the foot of a boom or yardarm and used to steer the sail. - 2. Tackle, tied into the clew of an oblique sail to stretch it along the boom.

clew - lower rear corner of the sail.

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