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Can you grow peas in a pot


How to Grow Peas in Containers

Pea Plants Take Two to Three Months to Grow

By

Kerry Michaels

Kerry Michaels

Kerry Michaels is a container gardening expert with over 20 years of experience maintaining container gardens in Maine. She specializes in writing and capturing photography for gardening and landscape design for print and broadcast media, including the Discovery Channel, Small Gardens, and Disney, among others.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

Updated on 06/23/22

Reviewed by

Debra LaGattuta

Reviewed by Debra LaGattuta

Debra LaGattuta is a gardening expert with three decades of experience in perennial and flowering plants, container gardening, and raised bed vegetable gardening. She is a Master Gardener and lead gardener in a Plant-A-Row, which is a program that offers thousands of pounds of organically-grown vegetables to local food banks. Debra is a member of The Spruce Gardening and Plant Care Review Board.

Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board

Rev Stan/Flickr/CC BY 2.0

Project Overview

Peas are the perfect vegetable to grow in a container garden. They grow quickly and don't need much attention but will yield a surprisingly large harvest for a little bit of effort. The must-haves for growing peas are full sunlight and moist soil. Peas prefer cool conditions, so planting them early in the season is your best bet for a plentiful harvest. Once the weather begins to warm, your peas will stop producing. You can pull them up at that point and start a different heat-loving vegetable in the same container.

Peas take between 60 and 70 days to grow to maturity from seeds. They don't have deep roots, so consider using planters at least 8 inches, going up to about 18 inches deep—plant peas about 1 to 2 inches deep and at the minimum 1 inch apart. You should be able to grow a second pea crop in late summer for a fall harvest. If your growing season is long enough, it might be possible to plant an early crop for a late spring harvest, then convert your planter to another fast-growing vegetable for the summer heat.

Some favorite types of peas for container gardening include:

Kerry Michaels

Equipment / Tools

Materials

  1. Prepare Your Container

    Cut a piece of plastic screening large enough to cover the drainage hole in the bottom of the container you've chosen. If you don't have screening, you can use a coffee filter or a piece of porous landscape fabric to cover the drainage hole.

    Tip

    If your container is enormous, fill the bottom third with empty, clean plastic containers, soda bottles, milk jugs, or any insoluble lightweight thing that will take up space without impeding water flow. It saves money on ​potting soil and keeps the container light. Separate the soil from filler material with a sheet of plastic screening or porous landscape fabric; cleanup will be easier at the end of the season.

  2. Fill Your Container With Potting Mix

    Pour potting mix into your container; stop filling at least 3 inches from the container rim. If your potting soil doesn't have fertilizer already included in its mixture, add in a general, all-purpose formula. Keep in mind that peas don't need much fertilizer—if you use too much, the nitrogen (a common ingredient in most fertilizers) will harm production, and the plants will produce large pods with small or no peas inside them. After filling your container, smooth out the soil, so it is relatively flat but not compacted.

  3. Plant Your Pea Seeds

    Though it's not mandatory, treating your pea seeds with a legume inoculant will produce a more significant pea yield and healthier plants. For faster germination, you can soak your seeds in water overnight. Then, while they're still wet, shake them in a bag with the inoculant.

    Sow your peas evenly. Plant peas at least one inch apart. The number of peas depends on the surface area of the container. You can plant two peas together to increase the chance of germination in that spot. With the flat part of your hand, press them onto the surface of the soil, and then add 1 to 2 inches of soil on top of the seeds. (Make sure not to add more than that, or the peas might have trouble germinating.) Water your container deeply with a watering can or a hose nozzle set to a gentle spray.

    Tip

    If more than one seed sprouts in the same spot, pull the weaker pea shoot. Pea shoots make an excellent, fresh salad topping.

  4. Set Up a Trellis

    Most pea varietals are climbing plants, so they need a trellis or support structure for the vines to climb. Peas do not naturally cling very well with their tendrils, so you might have to help them get started by using wire ties to secure the stems to the structure. Bamboo stakes tied together at the top with twine into a triangle shape work well. Or you can place your container near a deck or railing that can serve as a "trellis" for the plants.

  5. Care for the Peas

    Peas are relatively easy plants, so this is just about the only care required. Keep the soil moist but not wet as your pea seeds germinate, sprout, and begin to grow. And make sure that your containers receive at least six hours of full sunlight each day. Because you fertilized the potting soil before planting the seeds, no additional feeding is necessary—peas are legumes that naturally "fix" nitrogen into the soil by absorbing it from the air.

    Harvest your pea pods as they ripen. For sugar snap peas, harvest them when the pods are still young, which is when they are the sweetest and tender. When harvesting English peas that you will shell, wait until the pods swell, letting you know that the peas inside are big and juicy. For snow peas, pick them from the plant before the peas inside become large and tough.

    Elva Etienne/ Moment/ Getty Images

Watch Now: 19 Timelapses Perfect for Plant Lovers

Article Sources

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

  1. Peas. University pf Connecticut Home and Garden Education Center.

Tips for Growing Peas in Containers

Did you ever have the chance to shell freshly harvested peas as a kid?

It’s so fun! Each one hides its contents like little prizes earned from all the nurturing you provided through the growing season.

Well, if you didn’t have that experience in childhood, there’s still time to make up for that as an adult. And the best part is – a garden isn’t even necessary to enjoy it!

Sneak a few fresh, sweet peas into your mouth when no one is looking. We won’t tell.

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Sugar snaps and snow peas don’t even need shelling; they can be added to the menu directly after harvesting with nothing but a rinse in between.

Planting and growing any of these in containers is ridiculously easy, and we’re going to cover it all. You’ll be a potted pea planting pro by the time you’re finished!

Here’s what we’ll cover:

What You’ll Learn

Getting Started

Since they have a small root system, you don’t need a very spacious vessel to pot peas. This is good news for those who are planting a balcony, patio, deck, or porch garden. They’ll fit right in.

What’s great about this method is that a smaller pot or planter, supports, sunlight, water, and healthy soil are really all you need to begin.

Why Grow Peas in Containers?

Because of their naturally vertical growth habit, peas will produce a lot of food within a small footprint.

Based on my own experience – and of course, depending on the variety that you choose – 20 plants can be grown in four window boxes along a fence, yielding enough peas for several meals.

A few more can provide a big enough harvest to can or freeze for later, if you have the space.

Some varieties, known as bush types, don’t grow very tall and generally won’t need as much support. Several of these, such as ‘Tom Thumb’ and ‘Little Marvel,’ were bred just for container growing.

Peas belong to the legume family, also known as the nitrogen-fixers. In a symbiotic relationship with beneficial bacteria in the soil, nitrogen is pulled from the air and converted to a form that plants can use.

Early, short-season varieties easily allow for succession planting, so it’s possible in most areas to sow several sets before the heat of summer sets in.

It only takes a couple of weeks for peas to grow to a few inches in height after they germinate, so you can enjoy fresh shoots throughout the season if you opt to grow them as microgreens with successive plantings as well.

If you want to get fancy and put the vining types to use, it’s possible to train them to make a productive, living privacy fence for the duration of the growing season.

Another bonus is that all parts of edible pea plants – from the seeds and new shoots to the blooms, pods, and leaves – may be eaten. However, shelling peas have fibrous pods that are unpleasant to chew.

There is also an important distinction to make between garden peas and the sweet pea, Lathyrus odoratus. Sweet peas are flowering plants with beautiful, highly scented blooms. They are also legumes, but all parts of this species are toxic.

Let’s touch on what to look for in a suitable potting vessel to begin.

Choosing the Right Container

As I mentioned, there’s no need for a gigantic pot. A depth of about eight to twelve inches provides plenty of space for the small, shallow root system it’ll need to accommodate.

As a rule of thumb, width is more important than depth, and you’ll want to grow multiple plants for a sizable yield.

One such as this gorgeous, rustic, 12-inch Barnacle Rounded Egg Planter from Terrain is perfect. It’s made of glazed ceramic with an antique finish, and it has a drainage hole at the bottom.

Barnacle Rounded Egg Planter

Be sure to choose a pot that provides good drainage, and consider one made of a porous material such as ceramic to allow for transpiration.

Unglazed terra cotta containers absorb and lose moisture through their walls, so potting in these can make it easier to prevent overwatering.

Just bear in mind that, while unglazed ceramic is healthier for the roots, it can increase the need for frequent watering.

A wider, trough-shaped planter is also a great choice for growing peas if you want to produce a higher yield.

Green Plastic Window Box

This 36-by-nine-inch window box, available from Home Depot, is a good choice – although it is made of plastic, which doesn’t allow for transpiration.

You’ll need to be sure to punch out drainage holes in a plastic container like this one.

Preparing Your Container

A newly purchased container is usually good to go, although a quick rinse with water and a spray with neem oil can help to kill off any pathogens that may have hitched a ride from the garden center.

Reused planters will need a bit of attention prior to planting.

Use warm, soapy water to scrub these out well. Prepare a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water and submerge each container fully to kill any pests, eggs, or pathogens it may contain.

Leave your containers in the solution for about 30 minutes, and then rinse thoroughly until they no longer smell like bleach.

Drainage holes should be added to containers that don’t already have them. If this isn’t possible, choose something else to plant in.

Now, your pots are ready for growing a new crop of peas!

How to Grow

Most types of peas can withstand the low temperatures of early spring. Mature bushes or vines can often power through a light freeze and will continue growing even in temperatures around 40°F.

Soil temperatures determine how early the seeds will sprout. Aim for temperatures around 50 to 60°F for the fastest germination – anything below this, and the wait will be longer.

Growing in a container means soil temperatures will generally be lower than they would be in the ground.

In USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 9, late winter to spring is the best time for planting peas. In Zones 9 to 11, fall or winter is best.

The contents of seed packets are dried thoroughly so they don’t grow fungus or mold during storage. Soak the seeds in room temperature water overnight to allow them to rehydrate.

Drain them afterward, or add the water to the soil they’ll be planted in.

For the best results, sprinkle them with an inoculant such as this Cover Crop Inoculant for Pea, Vetch, Bean, and Lentils, available in sizes ranging from a quarter-ounce to five pounds from True Leaf Market.

Cover Crop Inoculant

Begin by filling the pot with fresh potting soil. Peas grow best in soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5, which is in line with what you’ll find in most commercial mixes.

If you want to make your own, aim for a blend that’s porous and that provides a balanced mix of nutrients, or a higher percentage of phosphorus.

Well-rotted manure is an excellent organic amendment for growing peas, but you should avoid adding nitrogen-rich amendments like blood meal.

Water it well and allow any extra moisture to drain off.

It’s best to direct sow rather than starting seeds indoors since legumes don’t transplant well.

Plant the seeds about two to three inches apart at a depth of about half an inch, covering each over lightly. Bush types can be spaced a little further apart, about three to four inches.

Place them in a spot with full sun for about eight hours per day. Dappled sunlight is also acceptable during the warmest part of the day when growing peas, which is usually in the afternoon.

Germination usually takes place within a few days to a week in ideal temperatures, and young shoots don’t need support until they’re about eight to 12 inches tall. From this height to maturity, providing something to climb or cling to is important.

Support

Rather than waiting until they’re tall enough to need support, it’s best to install stakes or other types of supports that will be pressed into the medium before the root system has filled out, to avoid causing damage.

Two long bamboo stakes crossed at the top and tied with twine can create a low-cost trellis, and the stakes can be reused.

Bean Growing Tower

A tall tomato cage is also suitable, as are pre-made trellises such as this Bean Growing Tower from Gardens Alive! that’s available via Home Depot.

Whichever type you use, anchor it well so it doesn’t fall over from the weight of the vines or in heavy winds. Bush types need less support, but they do usually need something to hold them upright.

Troubleshooting

Overcrowding isn’t a major concern unless high humidity is expected. Humidity coupled with densely packed foliage can lead to the development of powdery mildew.

Space the plants further apart at planting time to prevent this, if humidity is a concern in your region.

Climbers in the legume family tend to reach for whatever is closest and may attach to and climb up other vines, which can sometimes lead to choking. Do your best to separate the vines if they start to intertwine so each plant has its own dedicated area.

Succession and Split-Season Planting

As I mentioned, peas can be planted in succession for continued harvesting throughout the season.

To succession plant, the first set of seeds is sown about four to six weeks prior to the average last frost date in your region. One to two weeks later, a second set is sown.

This can be repeated several times so you will have plants that are maturing just as others are sprouting.

Splitting crops into two cool-weather seasons is also an option.

Spring-sown crops will begin to wither and stop producing in mid- to late summer. Remove the dead vines and compost them if they don’t show signs of disease or infestation.

You can start a new crop in the same pot, or use the nitrogen-enriched medium to grow leafy greens and move the peas to a different vessel.

It’s possible to start with packaged seed peas again, or if you’ve let some pods on your own plants mature and dry, you can start your own. Because peas are a cool-weather crop, wait until the heat of summer has begun to ease before starting a second round.

The second cycle is planted in the same way as the first, allowing at least 50 days for maturity, depending on the type you sow, before freezing temperatures set in.

Some gardeners recommend stirring in some untreated wood chips or sawdust to absorb excess nitrogen before you replant. But note that this might not be the best option for growing healthy plants.

Starting with fresh soil may be a better bet, and you can always conduct a soil test to check the nutritional makeup and pH of the soil.

Container Care

In the absence of rain, offer about an inch of water per week throughout the growing season and make sure the excess drains off.

As the season continues and outdoor temperatures begin to rise, add a two- to three-inch-thick layer of shredded mulch to the soil surface to keep the root zone shaded and cool.

Harvest mature pods often. Frequent harvesting increases productivity, so plan to check for mature pods every two to three days.

Fertilizing isn’t necessary, especially if you’ve inoculated your seeds ahead of time, but some nutrients can become depleted in soil that has been used for succession planting.

In this case, simply top dress midway through the season with a two- to three-inch-thick layer of compost.

A low-nitrogen fertilizer can be applied once per season when buds are setting, but be sure to apply it sparingly in a contained environment like a planter since the mineral salts in fertilizers tend to build up.

A packaged product should be diluted to 50 percent strength before application.

A better choice to prevent buildup, burning, or overfertilizing is to simply amend midseason with well-rotted manure. Add no more than 20 percent of the total volume of the container.

Growing Tips

Varieties to Select

Since there are a few different kinds of peas that can be grown in a container, we’ll cover those next, along with some suggested varieties to consider.

Shelling Types

Peas that grow inside a pod that must be removed and discarded prior to use are known as shelling types, or sometimes referred to simply as garden or English varieties.

They are commonly separated into early, midseason, or late season varieties. This refers to the time they take to mature after planting, with early varieties being ready to pick first.

Little Marvel

Bush peas can be somewhat more manageable in containers because they generally need less support than vining types, and often remain compact.

‘Little Marvel’ is one variety that ticks all these boxes while producing small, sweet peas with pods that can be eaten before they mature.

‘Little Marvel’

This cultivar will power through late winter, or it can be sown in late summer and grown until early winter in many regions.

Seeds are available in a variety of packet sizes from Eden Brothers.

Tom Thumb

A dwarf variety is an excellent choice for container-growing, and ‘Tom Thumb’ is one of the most popular and productive options available. It can be planted as an early or late season crop.

‘Tom Thumb’

This cultivar reaches just eight to 12 inches in height once mature, with productive yet compact vines that need little to no support. They can be planted closely together at just two to four inches apart.

Organic seeds are available in one-ounce or quarter-pound packets from Eden Brothers.

Wando

One of the best-known types of shelling peas, ‘Wando’ is an heirloom hybrid developed by crossing ‘Laxton’s Progress’ and ‘Perfection.’

The result is a hardy producer that generates three-inch pods, resists disease, and can be planted as an early or midseason crop.

‘Wando’

Seeds are available in packets of 80 from Botanical Interests.

Find more suggestions in our guide to 17 of the best shelling pea varieties.

Edible Pods

Whereas shelling types of peas have pods that must be discarded, some have edible pods.

Snow peas are harvested before the peas inside plump up, when they’re still tender and flat. These are excellent in stir fries.

Sugar snap peas are plump and sweet, with pods that aren’t as fibrous as those of their shelling counterparts. These are often eaten raw, and they make a tasty, crisp addition to cold salads.

Oregon Sugar Pod II

For delicious, sweet snow peas in the spring or fall, ‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ is a great choice.

These vigorous vines show strong disease resistance, reach heights of less than three feet on average, and produce four-inch pods that are ready to harvest in about 60 days, while they’re still flat.

‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’

Conventional or organic seeds are available from Botanical Interests.

Sugar Snap

There’s nothing quite like an heirloom variety to make you feel nostalgic. Sugar snap peas are one of the best producers, and the sweet, fleshy, three-inch pods are packed with tender beads of flavor.

‘Sugar Snap’

But keep in mind that this type produces vines that reach six feet in length or more, so they will need adequate vertical space and lots of support.

Packets of 300 seeds are available from Burpee.

Find some more excellent suggestions in our guide to growing snow peas.

Managing Pests and Disease

There aren’t many pests or diseases to be on the lookout for, especially when you’re growing peas in a container rather than in the ground. We’ll touch briefly on a few that can sometimes become more than just a nuisance.

For more in-depth information on pests and disease, check out our complete guide to growing peas.

Herbivores

By and large, you will typically see less damage from herbivores when plants are grown in containers.

Raccoons, groundhogs, rabbits, deer, and squirrels are just a few of the many creatures that would love to nibble on those tender leaves and pods.

But they may be deterred from approaching if they have to venture onto your deck or porch to access them.

Bird netting can be wrapped around the plants and pot, and secured well to prevent any adventurous critters from munching.

Insects

Insects are also of low concern, which is great news, isn’t it? Even though beetles, moths, cutworms, and stink bugs all enjoy legumes, they don’t tend to infest these plants to the point of die-off.

Stink bugs can be pulled off and dispatched, and cutworms can be removed from the soil and dropped in a bucket full of soapy water.

But there are two other common pests to keep an eye out for, and they may need to be dealt with a little more aggressively.

Aphids

We all know just how annoying aphids can be, and most of us know that their feeding habits can also lead to the spread of disease.

Spraying with neem oil or insecticidal soap is the easiest way to rid your legumes of these pests, but there are some other methods that may work well – find complete information in our guide to dealing with aphids.

Grubs

In-ground legume plantings are unlikely to be largely affected by grubs when there are other food sources available, such as grass roots, for instance.

But they may make an appearance in containers as well, and can cause a lot of damage when there is only one crop available to decimate.

Grubs are the larvae of several types of pest insects, such as Japanese beetles and weevils.

These pests are excellent parents who carefully shop around for a safe environment to lay their eggs, and there’s no space more prime than your easily accessible, well-tended potting soil.

After hatching, some types of grubs will voraciously eat the roots they have access to underground, but you may not know they’re there until signs of distress appear. Yellowing, unexplained stunting, and die-off can all be symptoms of their presence.

Unfortunately, the only way to be sure that they’re the culprits is to dig them up. One option is to harvest as many peapods as possible and then carefully unpot your plants.

Dump the soil or rake through it to see what you unearth – you can’t miss their gray to white, curled bodies against the dark medium.

Any grubs that you find can be placed in a shallow dish where the birds can grab a quick snack. Otherwise, they can be dispatched by dropping them into soapy water. You can bag the infested soil and discard it in the trash. 

Sanitize your container and refill it with fresh soil before replanting your peas – but remember that they don’t always respond well to transplanting, and may not survive.

Discard any that are too far gone before replanting, if the damage has progressed to that point.

Another option is to treat the soil with beneficial nematodes that will target grubs. This is particularly useful against Japanese beetle larvae, but certain types can be used to combat other varieties of grubs in the potting soil as well.

This type of treatment won’t hurt the plants, and you won’t need to dig them up if you go this route.

Disease

There are a couple different diseases that may present themselves, but we’re going to discuss the most common one – powdery mildew.

Powdery Mildew

On legumes, powdery mildew shows up as a dusty white film on the leaves and stems. This is caused by a fungus called Erysiphe pisi.

This ailment is more often seen in later-season plantings, as the evening dew keeps the leaves moist, allowing the pathogens to take hold. Dense plantings are more likely to suffer.

If left untreated, powdery mildew can kill the plants. Spraying with a preventative fungicide is the best way to avoid having to deal with problems later, particularly if powdery mildew has been a problem for you in the past.

If you spot signs of mildew developing, a fungicide can be applied at first sight as well.

Various homemade remedies may help as well. Read more in our guide.

Any material that is dead or dying should be removed and discarded in a sealed trash bag. Burning is also suitable for disposal in areas where it is permitted.

Harvesting

Bring a basket along or something else to hold the collected pods, and comb through the vines or shrubbery to find the mature ones that are ready to pick.

Working in one direction is easiest, so you don’t miss any. I prefer to start from the bottom of plants and work my way up.

Peapods that feel firm and plump should be carefully plucked from the stems, unless you’re growing snow peas. These should be harvested when the pods are two to three inches in length, still flat, and firm to the touch.

Immediately after harvesting, place what you’ve picked in the refrigerator, or process the peas first and then chill them. They’ll keep for about a week.

If the blooms, shoots, sprouts, or leaves are what you’re after, bring a set of clean pruning shears or a garden knife and simply cut them off at the base where they meet the stem.

Recipes, Cooking Ideas, and Preserving

There are many, many recipes out there that include peas. And what else would we expect with a delicious vegetable that has been enjoyed since the Bronze Age?

Shelling varieties should be processed by removing the peas from the pods and giving them a rinse. Types with edible pods can simply be rinsed clean and prepared as you like.

They are perfectly delicious all on their own, fresh from the harvest. Sauteing homegrown peas in a pan with a pat of butter and a pinch of salt takes just a few minutes and makes a sweet and savory addition to a meal.

While they take more prep time, other recipes such as chicken pot pie or beef stew aren’t complete without a cup or two of these little green gems.

Add them in unexpected places, such as in these yummy mini green onion frittatas with peas and feta – find the recipe on our sister site, Foodal.

Snow peas can also be sauteed, or added whole to stir fry dishes – especially Asian recipes like chow mein! Visit Foodal for that recipe as well.

Sugar snaps are a favorite for my children. We’ve grown them many times and they often pinch them from the vines and eat them any time they pass by.

With an abundant harvest that you can’t use right away, there’s no need to let those veggies go to waste.

It’s easy to freeze them by simply blanching them in boiling water for two to three minutes, plunging them into ice water, and then storing them in a sealed zip-top sandwich bag.

They can be stored for up to six months in the freezer, or consider canning them if you’ve produced a bumper crop. Pressure-canned peas can be stored for 12 months or longer.

Perfectly Potted Peapods!

There are so many vegetables that can be grown in a container garden, but some require special adaptations and a lot of attention.

Not so in this case – even if you plan to pop another round or two in for the season.

Have you sampled the leaves or shoots? I have, and I think they’re delightful, but I’d love to know what you thought.

What’s your plan? Snow, sugar, or shelling? We’d love to see your setup and hear all about how your season is going. Please share via the comments section below.

If potted veggies are your thing, check out these container gardening guides next, to expand your garden even more:

how to grow sweet peas in the apartment

Domik.ua talks about how not only to grow pea arrows, but also to wait for the ripe pods of this delicacy to ripen.

The process of growing peas will not be fast. For the successful outcome of your “agro-attempts”, you need to strictly follow the instructions for action and not accelerate the growth of peas artificially.

It is best to grow peas in an outdoor greenhouse in winter. You can also grow sweet peas at home. To do this, you need to stock up on spacious containers for planting shoots, prepare the foundations for supporting arrows and provide the plants with a sufficient amount of light, oxygen and moisture.

Which varieties are best to grow

Norli (Norli). Peas of this variety are early and high-yielding. Plants can grow up to 1m tall.

Oregon Sugar Pod (Oregon Sugar Pod). It can be grown in greenhouses in winter. Stems reach a height of 1 m.

Sugar Ann (Sugar Ann). Early maturing and long-bearing variety. The plant reaches a height of about 1.5 m and needs a strong support.

Preparation of pea seeds

Pea seeds should be selected so that they are not too old, but also not picked from unripe pods. To begin with, the seeds should be wrapped in gauze and poured with water for 3 hours. After that, the peas must be kept in wet gauze for 3-5 days. This is followed by sowing for growing seedlings.

See also: How to grow avocados at home

How to sow peas

The soil must be chosen moist, loose, alkaline, so if the soil is too acidic, you need to add lime to it.

You can add a little sawdust, straw cutting, humus (up to 30% of the soil volume) and a solution of complex mineral fertilizers (20 grams per 10 liters of water).

Before sowing, pea seeds must be treated with nitragin or boric microfertilizers. Peas are sown very densely.

Pea seeds for seedlings should be sown on wall beds in winter. Seeds must be sown one at a time in checkerboard rows with an interval of 10 cm and after 2 cm in a row to a depth of no more than 3 cm. After 15 days, seedlings can be planted on permanent soil.

In the greenhouse, seedlings should be planted in boxes in beds at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Leave no more than 10 cm between seeds.

After planting, the seedlings should be slightly tamped at the root part of the plant and watered from a watering can with a sieve.

See also: How to grow persimmon from seed: step by step instructions

How to care for peas

Pea is a very moisture and photophilous plant, so it needs to provide maximum light and moisture, both for the soil and for the leaves .

For proper growth and good harvest, peas need supports: poles for low-growing (90 cm) varieties and nets stretched between posts for tall varieties (1.5 m). You need to install supports when the seedlings grow to 8 cm.

The soil must not be allowed to freeze. Peas are sensitive to low temperatures, and with a prolonged cold snap, the seeds may decompose in the soil and not sprout.

See also: How to grow greenery at home in autumn

When the plants reach 15 cm in height, it is necessary to hang a coarse mesh over them so that the pea stalks can curl along them, do not get confused and grow quickly.

Regularly loosen the soil and water the crops. To prevent plant diseases, it is necessary to fertilize the soil with copper and a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Harvesting is possible when the diameter of the peas in the pods reaches 6 mm. During this period, peas are the most juicy and sweet.

You can discuss tips for growing green peas at home and share your experience on the Domik.ua forum in the section " How to arrange a home mini-garden ".

growing on a windowsill or balcony

Almost every gardener grows peas on his personal plot. But on the windowsills, this culture is much less common. Although there is nothing difficult in getting a crop "in captivity", no. The plant is not capricious, it does not require any special care. Of course, not all varieties are suitable for growing at home, but from the existing variety it is quite possible to choose a few suitable ones. Most often, sugar peas are planted on the windowsill, in which not only grains are suitable for food, but also the beans themselves, and shelling - it is highly valued for its taste.

Contents

Pea varieties suitable for home cultivation

Peas at home are not the most common crop. Much more often, all kinds of greens and herbs are grown on the windowsills. But in principle, there is nothing impossible in this. Pea grains are not only tasty, but also very healthy. Its greens can also be eaten, it is a worthy alternative to lettuce leaves.

It is quite possible to grow peas on the windowsill even for those who have never cultivated them in the garden

For indoor cultivation, choose low-growing varieties from the sugar or shelling category. In addition to compactness, they have another advantage - more juicy leaves than grain peas.

Of the sugar varieties, the most popular are the following:

Photo: home-grown varieties of sugar peas

Ambrosia peas were bred relatively recently, but have already managed to prove themselves from the best side
Goroh Zhegalova 112 successfully passed the test of time
Peas Sugar girlfriend - one of the novelties of the Russian selection
Sugar Oregon peas cannot be called sugar in the full sense of the word - the “parchment” layer is still present, albeit weakly expressed
Children's sugar peas are valued for their excellent taste
Peas Inexhaustible 195 stands out with grains of an unusual lime color

Shell peas can also be grown on the windowsill. He eats only grains, the beans themselves are inedible.

Photo gallery: common varieties of shelled peas

Oscar peas are one of the first to harvest
Adagumsky pea resists diseases well, but does not have absolute immunity
Peas Early Gribovsky 11 are characterized by mass fruiting
Peas Khavsky pearls are relatively rarely affected by rot
Pea Vera is a very popular early variety.
The stem height of Voskhod Pea makes it suitable for growing at home.

Preparation of planting material

Preparation for growing peas at home begins with the selection of quality seeds. They are the key to a bountiful harvest in the future. You can buy them or make your own. They remain viable for two years.

Pea seed pre-planting stage one - visual inspection

First of all, the peas are sorted out and carefully examined, discarding those that have obvious defects - violations of the integrity of the skin, other mechanical damage, spots resembling traces of mold and rot, non-standard sizes and shapes, and so on.

The remaining seeds are immersed for 10-15 minutes in soft water with the addition of table salt (20 g per liter). If there is no melt or rainwater, ordinary plumbing is also suitable. But it will have to be defended for at least a day, waiting for the precipitation, resembling grayish-white flakes. You can also add a few drops of apple cider vinegar or citric acid crystals. Those peas that float to the surface can be thrown away immediately. Unusual lightness means the absence of the germ. Such seeds will not give seedlings, this is obvious.

Soaking pea seeds in saline allows for the rejection of those that clearly will not germinate

Peas that have passed the potential germination test are prepared for germination. The grains extracted from the saline solution are washed in running water and the excess is allowed to drain, spreading them on linen napkins or cotton towels. Then they are soaked in a bright crimson potassium permanganate solution to prevent the development of fungal diseases. Water with the addition of boric acid (0.1 g per 0.5 l) is also suitable. The procedure in the first case lasts 6-8 hours, in the second - 15-20 minutes.

Potassium permanganate solution is one of the most widely available disinfectants

After that, the peas are washed again and kept for 4-6 hours in plain water, heated to a temperature of 40-45ºС. During this time, it is advisable to change it at least once or twice, because it cools down. After a specified period, they are removed from the water and dried.

The final stage of preplant preparation is germination. A piece of cotton cloth or cotton wool is moistened with water and squeezed lightly so that it does not drip. To speed up the process, you can add a biostimulant to the water. Both purchased preparations (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin, potassium humate) and folk remedies (aloe juice, honey, succinic acid) are suitable. Seeds are laid out on this fabric and covered with the same piece on top. It is undesirable to use gauze. The emerging seedlings get tangled between the threads, it is almost impossible to extract them from there without breaking them. And paper napkins very quickly spread into porridge, because the material will have to be constantly moistened as it dries. By no means should this be forgotten. If the fabric dries, the seeds will simply disappear.

If pea seeds are wrapped in gauze, germinated peas will be very difficult to remove without damaging them

The resulting "package" is placed on a plate and put in heat. Suitable, for example, a heating battery or a window sill illuminated by the sun most of the day. Seeds are ready for planting, in which the sprout has reached about a centimeter length. They hatch somewhere in 2-3 days, the whole process takes 5-6 days. Such peas sprout 4-5 days earlier than unprepared ones.

Germinated pea seeds show faster and better germination percentage than unprepared

The procedure is carried out in such a way that the seeds can be planted in the ground immediately after it. They don't even need to be dried.

Some gardeners recommend simply pouring warm water over the peas. But in this case, for those who do not have much experience, it is easy to spoil the planting material. If bubbles appear on the surface of the water, this means that some of the seeds have died due to a long stay in it. Usually the night is enough, and in the morning the peas can already be planted. They will swell, but will not germinate. Accordingly, the emergence of seedlings will also be delayed.

Video: preplant preparation of pea seeds

How to grow peas at home on the windowsill: optimal conditions

Peas do not have any special requirements for growing conditions. But it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the “wishes” of the culture in advance in order to create an optimal or close to this microclimate for it. Only in this case is it possible to obtain a bountiful harvest.

Peas are one of the most cold-resistant horticultural crops. This quality is preserved when grown at home. The plant feels great at a temperature of 16-18ºС, so the pots in spring and summer can be safely taken out to the balcony, even unglazed. But peas tolerate heat relatively poorly. At 25ºС and above, the process of plant development is greatly inhibited, it seems to fall into "hibernation". This negatively affects future yields. Therefore, at home, it is undesirable to plant grains in June or July. As a rule, these are the hottest months. The critical minimum for culture is approximately -5ºС.

At home, peas must receive enough light

Peas belong to plants with long daylight hours. For normal development, plants require a minimum of 12 hours of light per day. In summer, the pots are put on the windowsill of a window facing south, southeast, southwest. If there is not enough sun (and in most of Russia it is, especially in winter, late autumn and early spring), artificial light sources will have to be used. Both special phytolamps and conventional ones (fluorescent, LED) are suitable. They are placed about half a meter above the container with peas, from above, at a distance of about half a meter, at a slight angle.

Phytolamps help to provide daylight hours of the required duration

Peas have a very positive attitude to fresh air, they are not afraid of drafts. The room must therefore be regularly ventilated. Spraying is also useful to him, especially in the heat. You can raise the humidity in the room in other ways - place more other plants in the room, arrange basins with cool water, put wet pebbles or expanded clay in the pot tray, buy a special device.

The root system of peas is developed, the presence of a powerful taproot is characteristic. When grown outdoors, it goes into the soil for about a meter. At home, this, of course, is impossible, but you still have to choose a deep, spacious container that resembles a bucket for culture. Too little soil in flat pots, this can cause overheating of the roots and a sharp decrease in yield. The preferred material is natural ceramic. It provides normal aeration and does not allow moisture to stagnate in the soil.

Pot for growing peas must be deep and spacious

Peas prefer a nutritious but light substrate. Regardless of whether you buy soil or mix it yourself, baking powder must be present in the composition - coarse sand, perlite, vermiculite, crushed dry sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, straw.

Crushed dry sphagnum moss gives the soil the required looseness

Other necessary component - humus or rotted compost. It will provide the mixture with the necessary nutrition. It is strictly forbidden to use fresh manure. It saturates the soil with nitrogen, peas, like all legumes, have similar properties. And an excess of this macroelement negatively affects the immunity of the plant, contributes to the active formation of green mass to the detriment of flowering and fruiting.

Humus improves soil fertility

To humus and baking powder, taken in approximately equal volume, add the same amount of ordinary earth. You can use the soil from the garden (best of all from the one on which any Solanaceae or Pumpkin grew before), a purchased universal substrate for seedlings or houseplants, forest soil. The latter is best taken from under any deciduous trees, except for birch.

Any primer must be sterilized before use. The easiest way is to put it for several days on an unheated balcony in winter or hold it in the freezer. Other methods are roasting in the oven or steaming.

Varieties of peas whose stem length does not exceed a meter do not need support. Just to be on the safe side, they can be let curl around a bamboo support. They are sold at any store with houseplants.

It is quite possible to build a support for low-growing pea varieties on your own or simply buy it

If you chose a more “overall” variety, you will have to build something resembling a trellis. The simplest option is several vertical supports and horizontally strong threads, fishing line or thin wire stretched between them. The optimal cell size for the resulting grid is 10*10 cm. Being correctly placed, it performs not only a utilitarian function, but also a decorative one. This "green screen" looks very unusual and original. Just do not put a net entwined with peas against the wall butt. Under such conditions, normal air exchange is impossible.

Planting procedure

Prepared pea seeds are planted in a common container, wide and shallow. If you immediately provide each of them with an individual large capacity, there is a high risk of acidification of the soil and the development of rot. In principle, landing in plastic cups or peat pots is acceptable, but then a pick will still be required. The root system of peas simply does not have enough space.

There is nothing complicated in the disembarkation procedure itself. They operate according to the following algorithm:

  1. Containers are filled with disinfected soil, moderately watered and leveled. 3-5 cm should remain to the edge of the container. If there are no drainage holes, they must be made independently. Drainage is desirable at the bottom - a layer of fine expanded clay, crushed stone, pebbles, brick chips about 2 cm thick.

    Initially, pea seeds are sown in common containers

  2. Seeds are sown in grooves about 2 cm deep. The interval between them is 5–7 cm. The row spacing is 7–8 cm. The peas are placed with a sprout down. The grooves are sprinkled with soil, without ramming it. Then the soil is moistened again by spraying from a spray bottle. The container is covered with glass or a piece of polyethylene, turning it into a greenhouse. Before germination, peas do not need light. However, regular watering is required as the top layer of soil dries out and daily airing. It is enough to remove the shelter for 10-15 minutes to get rid of the accumulated condensate.

    Seeds of peas are planted in the soil with the sprout pointing downwards

  3. After the seeds germinate, the shelter is removed. The culture is provided with daylight hours of the required duration, naturally or artificially. The optimum temperature is 18–20ºС. Regular watering is still important. The soil must not be allowed to dry out. About a week after germination, the first feeding is carried out by watering the peas with a solution of simple superphosphate (2–3 g per liter of water).

    Prepared pea seeds germinate fairly quickly

  4. In the phase of the second true leaf, the seedlings dive. They are seated in separate containers with a volume of 0.3-0.5 liters. You can reuse one common box, but it must be large enough. The optimal distance between plants is at least 5 cm. The soil is used the same as for seed germination.
    1. They are removed from the old container together with a clod of earth on the roots, trying to minimize its integrity.
    2. Seedlings are planted in holes about 5 cm deep.
    3. Keep peas in partial shade for 4–5 days after picking, protected from direct sunlight.
    4. Seedlings that have reached a height of 12–15 cm are tied to a support if necessary.

      Seedlings of peas after picking, if necessary, tie up to a support

Further plant care and harvesting

Caring for peas is simple, both in the garden and at home. The main component of agricultural technology is proper watering. Regular loosening of the soil in a pot is also important, this provides access to fresh air to the roots and prevents the soil from turning sour.

It is necessary to loosen the soil when growing peas both in a pot on the windowsill and in open ground

Most varieties begin to bloom a month after planting seeds in the ground or even a little earlier. Harvest ripens in another 20-25 days. For many sugar varieties, this period is reduced to 10-15 days. There are no problems with fruiting. Pea is a self-pollinating crop, it copes with this task perfectly without any outside help.

Pea fruits, even in "captivity" are tied without outside help

Before flowering, plants should be watered twice a week if the weather outside is optimal for the crop. As soon as the buds open, the intervals are reduced to two days. In the heat, even daily watering and additional spraying may be required. In any case, only soft water, heated to room temperature, is used.

It's easy to determine if it's time to wait or if it's time to wait - the soil from the top layer, when rubbed in the fingers, feels like "prickly", it's impossible to squeeze it into a lump. Every time, about half an hour after the procedure, when the moisture is already absorbed, the soil is loosened to a depth of about 5 cm.

It is strongly not recommended to pour peas. This compacts the soil, making it difficult to aerate. It also increases the risk of developing fungal diseases.

In addition to top dressing carried out even before diving, it is enough to fertilize peas three times during the active growing season. The first time the procedure is carried out immediately before flowering, the next - with an interval of 12-15 days. The nutrient solution is prepared by dissolving 1.5–2 g of simple superphosphate and potassium sulfate in a liter of water. There are also special fertilizers for legumes, which you can easily buy at any specialized store. They do not contain nitrogen, which the plant saturates the soil on its own.

Fertilizers for legumes do not contain nitrogen - this macronutrient is produced by plants themselves

Those who prefer natural supplements can use dry screened wood ash or make an infusion.

Wood ash is a natural source of potassium and phosphorus

Video: planting peas and further care of the crop

Beans are harvested as they mature. The diameter of the grains in the state of technical maturity is not less than 6–7 mm. Ripe beans left on the plant inhibit the formation of new ovaries.

Regular picking of mature beans stimulates the emergence of new buds, thereby increasing the yield

The lowest pods ripen first. Fruiting in most varieties is extended, lasting about two months. During this time, 0.5–0.8 kg of beans are removed from one bush. They are carefully cut with scissors or a sharp knife. Do not pull, twist or pull the pods. It is very easy to cause significant damage to the plant itself.

A sign that the fruiting period is ending is a hardened stem. But you can extend it a little by removing all the leaves from the lower half and pinching the top. This procedure stimulates the appearance of new shoots.

If you have a garden, don't just throw away mature plants. The cut leaves are tossed into the compost heap. And the crushed roots are an effective and absolutely natural fertilizer, a worthy alternative to manure and humus. It not only increases the fertility of the soil, but also improves its texture.

Peas are sick at home quite rarely, and with proper care - almost never. The most dangerous disease for planting is powdery mildew. At the same time, it is undesirable to use chemicals to combat the fungus, they are deposited both in the soil and in the beans themselves. The first symptoms are a powdery greyish-white coating and blurry yellow spots on the leaves. Gradually, the “flour” darkens and seems to thicken, the affected tissues turn brown, dry and die.

Powdery mildew is one of the most common fungal diseases that affects both houseplants and horticultural crops

For prevention, a few crystals of potassium permanganate are periodically added to the water for irrigation, and crushed chalk or sifted wood ash is added to the soil during planting. To cope with a disease detected at an early stage, folk remedies are enough. Peas are sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur, mustard powder, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 with kefir or whey with the addition of iodine, infusion of onion or garlic arrows, wormwood. As a rule, 2-3 treatments with an interval of 3-5 days are sufficient. In the absence of effect, fungicides of biological origin are used (Strobi, Alirin-B, Thiovit-Jet).

The second common household disease is root rot. Often it develops as a result of regular waterlogging of the soil. It is also dangerous because the fungus parasitizes on the roots for a long time, the aerial part of the plant looks healthy. And when the stem begins to blacken and soften, becomes slippery to the touch, the soil is covered with a layer of mold and spreads the smell of rot, it is too late to save the plant. It must be destroyed as soon as possible - this is the source of the spread of infection. Preventive measures to prevent the development of root rot are the same as those recommended for the preventive control of powdery mildew.

The obvious symptoms of root rot of peas appear only when it is too late to save him - the development of the disease has gone too far

Video: experience of growing peas at home

Peas are not only tasty, but also very healthy.

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