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Build a garden room


How to Create Garden Rooms

Create your new favorite "sitting spot"

By

Marie Iannotti

Marie Iannotti

Marie Iannotti is a life-long gardener and a veteran Master Gardener with nearly three decades of experience. She's also an author of three gardening books, a plant photographer, public speaker, and a former Cornell Cooperative Extension Horticulture Educator. Marie's garden writing has been featured in newspapers and magazines nationwide and she has been interviewed for Martha Stewart Radio, National Public Radio, and numerous articles.

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Updated on 07/29/19

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Creating garden “rooms”—separated areas in a garden—adds an element of surprise to your landscape, no matter what size it is. You can create distinct zones for different uses and divide them off from each other with a feature, such as a pergola, shrub, or fencing. Garden rooms also provide a way to indulge in plants that might not work well together. If you keep them in separate rooms, they will all work fine.

What Is a Garden Room?

Let’s start with what a garden room is not. It is not decorating your patio with floral-printed furniture and adding a couple of potted plants. An inviting patio makes a nice transition from the house to the garden, but it is not necessarily a garden room.

Rooms, whether in homes or in gardens, are spaces separated by some type of wall. In the garden, this can be accomplished with hedges, trees and shrubs, vines, or fences and other structures. They don't have to be 8 feet tall; they just have to give a sense of separation, to give you a defined space to design and use.

The Sissinghurst Castle Garden was influential in popularizing the concept of garden rooms. It uses a geometric hedge to create formal garden areas, but you could use this overall concept in a more casual way as well. Instead of a clipped hedge, you could create your walls with a row of lilacs, tall grasses, or maybe runner beans trained on two trellises to create an entryway.

When your wall or walls block the immediate view of the room so that it is isolated from the rest of the garden, it creates both a sense of enclosure and discovery.

Why Create Garden Rooms?

Aesthetically, garden rooms can make your landscape appear larger. When the entire yard is open, your eyes take in the whole space with one sweeping glance. When the view is obstructed, your perspective becomes more focused, and you observe your garden in much smaller chunks.

Creating separated rooms also allows gardeners to play with different color schemes or styles without creating chaos. You can have a bright, hot, tropical space and a calming pastel cottage garden without having the plants compete with each other for attention. You can always unify the disparate sections by repeating the hardscaping or a handful of plants.

Practically speaking, garden rooms can be used to create spaces for different functions, such as a dining area, a play area, a place for contemplation, or an edible garden. One approach is to view your garden like a house. Design the layout of a kitchen, a living room, a family room, playroom, and a place to rest, but don’t let that idea confine you. You can get away with a lot more fantasy outdoors.

How to Get Started

First, decide what you want to do in the room. Whether it’s to experiment with color or to create a fort for young children, the room's creation begins with its intended purpose. Think about the paths you already take in your yard. You don’t want to obstruct the main entry, but you do want to divert travelers so that they have to go around a corner to discover the room.

Consider the views from within the room and of the room. Will placing a "wall" in a particular location block a view from in the house or create intrigue? Would placing the wall there block sunlight from getting into the room?

After you have the intent and the site, you can begin to consider what type of plant or structure will create the divider between it and other areas of the garden.

Designing the Garden Room

After the walls' locations are planned, then the real fun starts. You get to “furnish” the room. The options are limitless. Some ideas to consider:

When you're choosing plants, don't focus only on color, height, and the smell of the plants. You can also include sound, touch, and even taste. You might also want to take pollinator attraction into account. (Think trumpet vines on a trellis for hummingbirds or butterfly bushes within sight of the seating area or as walls.)

Most importantly, make it a space you want to discover and spend time in. You can start with a room for dining and entertaining that creates a passage from the house and opens into the larger garden, or take an already enclosed space, such as your vegetable garden, and add a table and other sensory elements to it.

Play with creating your first secluded space, and you can easily find yourself expanding the idea further. But don't let yourself get overwhelmed with the options. The best gardens take years to mature. You can always revise things as you go, too. It's better to start small and add to it over time than to never attempt to create your new favorite "sitting spot." As a bonus, you may even find that you spend more time in the garden enjoying it after the addition of a dedicated room to spend time in.

How to build a garden office from scratch - on a budget

With many of us now working from home there’s an increasing need find a suitable space in which to work away from distractions and normal family life. Making a garden office in which we can switch off from the day to day home life to focus on work is important for a number of reasons. Whether it’s a segregated space away from the home or just some much needed extra space this guide should help you decide if building your own garden room is right for you. This post is targeted at those with some basic DIY skills and a limited budget. Read on to find out how I built my own garden office from scratch.

The end goal

Table of Contents

DIY garden office intro

You won’t need to follow my instructions step by step as your space may differ from mine. Your design ideas, for example, might resemble a garden pod or garden office log cabin, but the principles are much the same with regards to the overall construction.

I’ve recently drawn up some 3D plans for the shed which are available to download now. They include a detailed step by step build guide, materials list and cut list. You can use this guide to easily build the pictured shed, then add the insulation later.

3D plans

Below I have created a step by step guide on how to build this with useful tips and common mistakes that can be avoided. If like me you’re on a budget then this will hopefully give you some great ideas to save money on both the construction and any tools that you might require.

Professionally installed garden offices of this sizes will cost on average £15,000 to £20,000 depending on where you live. You can get a beautiful garden office from businesses like garden rooms Essex if you have the budget available, but if not then I will show you how to achieve your own garden office by building it yourself for about £5000. In my build I am extending from an original shed I built a couple of years back. I will be showing you how I extended this structure and insulated the whole thing. The original structure cost me about £1200.

Grab 10% off your garden office kit at Garden Buildings Direct today

A DIY garden office isn’t for everyone and there are certain things you probably won’t be able to complete yourself, such as the electrics, but the structure itself can be achieved relatively easily with a few select tools, a little bit of research and some time.

Time is an important factor here as you’ll need to dedicate about a full week in dry weather to complete the main structure. You’ll also probably need another two weeks to finish off the interior and aesthetic touches. I have completed my office in and around work. With this and the bad weather during winter it’s taken a little over two months so far.

If building your office from scratch isn’t quite right then you can always consider a flat-pack office. All you’ll need is a suitable base and the rest is easy. I’ve recently built another garden office using a flat pack kit from Garden Buildings Direct. This can simplify the self-build process, saving you time but will cost a little more. My office space is ideal for quiet online meetings and making use of the virtual office space our organisation uses. This DIY garden office and the virtual office mean I can work from home, whilst also feeling like I’m at the office.

Before you get started you’ll need to produce a plan and know a few basic building planning restrictions.

Planning permission

There are a few regulations in place that prevent you from building a structure that might affect your neighbours so be sure to check the UK planning portal before you get started.  Failing to follow these rules could mean that your lovely garden office will need to be taken down so make sure you stick within the guidelines. It’s also important to check your property deeds as there might be a covenant that prevents building works in specific areas.

Further more you can always check with your local planning department to double check these restrictions and get relevant guidance.  The following is a quick list of restrictions for outbuildings that are considered permitted developments.

  1. On designated land, outbuildings to the side of the house are not permitted development.
  2. Outbuildings are not permitted development within the grounds of a listed building.
  3. Outbuildings are not permitted development forward of the principal elevation of the original house.
    The term original house means the house as it was first built or as it stood on 1 July 1948 (if it was built before that date).
  4. Outbuildings and other additions must not exceed 50% of the total area of land around the original house. Sheds and all other outbuildings (see intro) and extensions to the original house must be included when calculating this 50% limit.
  5. To be permitted development, any new building must not itself be separate, self-contained, living accommodation and must not have a microwave antenna.
  6. Outbuildings must be single storey with a maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of 4 metres with a dual pitched roof, or 3 metres in any other case.
  7. If the outbuilding is within 2 metres of the property boundary the whole building should not exceed 2.5 metres in height.
  8. In national parks, the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage Sites the total area to be covered by any outbuildings more than 20 metres from ANY WALL of the house must not exceed 10 square metres to be permitted development.

Location planning

Grab a piece of paper, a tape measure and pop into the garden to start thinking about the ideal location for your new building. Consider the following factors:

Structural planning

Have a think about how you will construct your office including the roof, floor and wall designs. There are many different ways to achieve these so consider the following:

The floor & foundation

Do you want to build your garden office on a slope or uneven ground?

Take a look at my recent guide where I show you how to build a shed or garden office base on a sloped garden. This in depth guide covers everything you need to know, from levelling ground to building a wooden framed base on a steep slope.

The walls

My garden office plans drawn on SketchUp

Structurally most walls will be the same but you will need to consider the type of insulation and cladding you prefer. An office without any insulation is going to be very cold in the winter months so think carefully about this stage. Consider one of the following or do your own research for the best insulation to use.

Insulation

For the insulation I decided to use Rockwool RWA45 (50mm) slabs because they offer both excellent thermal and acoustic properties. I wanted additional soundproofing as I use half of my office as a workshop for cutting and sanding my furniture. Thermal conductivity: 0.035 W/mK 

For extra acoustic soundproofing consider going for the Rockwool RW3 or RW5 but this application is best suited for sound/recording studios, not general office use.

For general thermal insulation consider:

W/mK explained (The U-value)

The U-Value is the flow of heat through the building materials used to make up the building itself. This includes bricks, flooring, roofing and windows. The value is measured in watts at the rate of heat transfer. The lower the U-Value of a material the better insulator it will be.

Cladding

For the exterior walls you will again have a choice of many different types of cladding. Most will provide adequate protection from the elements so it’s really down to your preference on aesthetics.

On my first structure I used a log lap cladding as I like the look of it and it was a reasonably thick material (at 22mm). For the second part of the structure I decided to go for a slightly cheaper shiplap cladding and now prefer the look of this.

I purchased the shiplap cladding from B&Q. It has great ratings and is easy to work with. The boards come in 3m lengths and are 119mm x 14.5mm. This is a little thinner than the loglap but also a bit cheaper at £5.27 per board.

You can find the 22mm thick loglap cladding here

Here is the 38mm loglap cladding which is great for that little bit extra thermal and acoustic insulation.

The roof

What style roof are you looking to create? They all pretty much provide the same function but some may be easier to construct and maintain. I went for a dual pitched roof purely because I like the look of it.

Flat roof – This is probably the simplest construction and you’ll benefit from only requiring one side of guttering. You’ll need to do your own research if you want to build this style but this video is a good starting point.

Apex roof or dual pitched roof – You can follow my instruction below for this style roof. It’s not overly complicated and can be built in two different ways. Either with the rafters running longways, similar to that of the flat roof or upwards to the apex like my original design.

Consider how much over hang you want on the roof. A roof with a decent size overhang will provide more protection from rain than a small overhang. My roof overhangs each edge by about 30cm which is a little more than most sheds but it protects the walls from the elements.

Apex roof

Materials

I’ll list all the materials I have used on my build but you may want to consider upgrading or downgrading some of these to suit your own requirements. For example, I went for a more expensive type of insulation that also acts as a sound barrier. I also selected a cheaper type of waterproof breathable membrane which you may wish to upgrade.

Why use a breathable membrane? A breathable membrane will offer weatherproofing against the elements whilst also allowing air to move freely between the barrier. This is required to prevent moisture build up within the structure, which causes damp and mould to grow, which we don’t want to happen.

Using reclaimed materials is always a good choice where possible to help bring down costs but finding the right ones can be challenging. Search Google for local reclaimed wood suppliers and visit them to see what you can get. Search Google for ‘wood recycling project’ to find your nearest recycling business. Here is the Bristol branch: https://www.bwrp.org.uk/

Materials List

These are the materials and costs for my project which was an extension of my original self built shed. I also insulated and boarded the existing shed/office so please make sure to complete your own calculations based on the size of your build. I’ve included all the links to where you can find the materials.

MaterialSizeApplicationQuantityCost
18mm OSB 3 board2440x1220mmFlooring4£82
9mm OSB 3 board2440x1220mmWalls and roof20£310
CLS studwork 2.4m38x63x2400mmFlooring, walls & roof40£100
CLS studwork 3m38x63x3000mmFlooring & walls8£54
Upvc french doors1190x2090mmDoors1£480
C16 stick timber95x45x3600mmRoof ridge1£9. 39
C16 stick timber70x45x3600mmRoof supports5£55.25
Plasterboard screws3.5x35mmSecure plasterboard1000£6.54
3m Shiplap cladding119×14.5mmCladding outer wall44£231.88
12.5mm Plasterboard2440x1220mmInternal walls25£190
Rockwool RWA45 insulation1200x600mmWalls & roof insulation8 packs£259.94
80mm screws5mm x 80mmStud walls & flooring300£12.57
Water vapour barrier4m x 25mWalls and roof1£15
90mm posts90x90mmx2.4mCorner posts2£30.60
Felt roofing (green)10m x 1mRoofing2£40
TOTAL (so far)£1877. 17

The above completes the build to date but I intend on adding a window to the left hand wall and also want to extend the space further to have an L shape office. I will cover these details another time.

Save more money with Cashback

I always use a cashback site like Top Cashback when buying on line. It’s a great way to save money on builds like this and all your everyday shopping needs. My wife and I have generated over £2200 in a couple of years so it’s worth having a look at before you start buying materials and tools.

I’ve added the Top Cashback browser extension so that I don’t miss any potential cashback offers. It works on both Chrome and Firefox.

Tools

If you’re not fully tooled up yet then consider the following to make this job both quicker and easier.

You necessarily need all of these tools but it will help your build quality and speed. I have recommended some of my favourite tools which are Dewalt. I think this is a good quality brand along side Makita. But it’s up to you what you use.

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Step by step guide for building this garden office

Ground works

Let’s kick things off with the ground works for your garden office. I already had a reasonably flat surface with which to start the build. As mentioned above this office is to be an extension of my original DIY shed which I will also be insulating and boarding inside.

Levelling the ground and placing the support slabsThe original space before I made the first structure

View my original post to see a full guide to building a base.

I used some left over type 1 MOT to provide a tough base with which to build on. I then laid out the 4 corner plinths to my required dimensions. I was a little restricted here due to an existing structure so the overall dimensions for the base were 3250mm x 3000mm.

The floor frame for the garden building

Using one of the 3m C16 timber pieces I was able to dig out the ground and level the slabs using a large 1.8m spirit level.

Screwing the frame together

As you can see I’ve built the frame directly off the original structure. Using 80mm screws to join the frame pieces together. Drilling pilot holes before inserting the screws. The spacing between each timber support is in intervals of 610mm which is half of the 1220mm wide 18mm MDF boards that will be fitted on top.

To protect the outer frame from water and possible rotting I wrapped each edge with the plastic sheeting. I simply stapled the plastic sheet to the wood with a staple gun.

It’s also at this point I made sure the frame was squared off, with each corner a right angle, by measuring diagonally (corner to opposite corner) and gently adjusting the frame until both lengths were exactly the same.

It’s now time to add some more supports to ensure there is sufficient strength for the floor. You can see I’ve added additional slabs so the floor doesn’t flex when additional weight is added. This required further digging and shifting of the MOT.

Additional support for the frame

With the correct measurements the 2440x1220mm 18mm thick MDF boards should fit neatly over this frame with suitable support. Make sure there is enough space so that the boards can be screwed into the frame alongside the other boards. Secure the boards down using 40mm (4mm wide) screws.

To finish off the base and floor I added another full board and cut the remaining two to fit using a circular saw. If you have a good square base everything should line up nicely down the edges. I made sure the boards go right up to the edge of the frame because I’ll cover the lot with some waterproof material. This will protect the flooring from being breached by water and causing it to rot.

Insulating the floor

You might want to consider insulating the floor before going any further with your garden office. I decided not to insulate at this point due to my budget but I will add insulation afterwards. There is a great video below which demonstrates insulating the floor but you will need to consider this early on in the build process.

I have decided to insulate the floor retrospectively using something like this cork acoustic and thermal insulation roll. It won’t be as effective as the insulation in the above video and it will raise the floor by about 10mm but I’m happy with this.

The garden office walls

Building the wall frame is very straight forwards. I started by adding the 90mm posts to the corner and measuring the distance in-between. I then built another frame with the CLS timber measuring 2m tall and the correct length of the building. Struts were added in 600mm intervals to allow for the insulation to fit snuggly between. Nogins were added 1200mm up from the base timber. (again for the insulation to fit nicely.)

I made two of these the same. For the original structure I made the rear wall the same (to the correct width) and added the roof supports afterwards.

I haven’t added any windows to my office yet but it’s at this point you should probably think about building a suitable frame if you’d like to add one (or more). They can be added after but it’s a little more difficult. Try follow this structure if you intend to add a window.

Windowed wall frame

You can find cheap windows on Facebook Marketplace or Gumtree, especially if you’re not fussed with the size. If you want something a little more specific try Wickes or B&Q for windows. B&Q have matching grey windows here.

The wall frames were then screwed into the base using 80mm screws and screwed into the corner posts using 60mm screws.

To add additional strength to the structure it’s a good idea to insert diagonal supports on some of the frame. This will prevent the frame from leaning should you ever add weight to the interior walls.

I then measured out my door frame and cut the lengths of CLS to fit. The above picture demonstrates how I’ve constructed this. My door measured 1190mm x 2090mm but I made sure the frame was about 3-5mm wider than this. This allowed me enough space to slide the door into the frame easily. The door comes with packers which fill any space and allows you to square up the door. It is crucial that the door is perfectly square or it won’t open and close properly. I took my time on this part to ensure the timber frame was spot on.

Here is a cross section diagram of the correct wall construction. You can also swap the 9mm OSB for 18mm OSB for a stronger more insulated wall.

Materials in order, starting from the inside:

  1. Plasterboard
  2. 9mm OSB or ply board
  3. CLS timber frame
  4. insulation
  5. 9mm OSB or ply board
  6. Breathable membrane
  7. Furring strips
  8. Cladding

To save money on my project I decided not to have the inner 9mm OSB/ply. I simply attached the plasterboard directly onto the CLS timber frame. This will save a reasonable amount of money but reduces the thermal properties of the structure.

The garden room roof

For this I opted for a dual pitched roof supported by lengthways rafters running from end to end. Different to my original structure. Move the slider below to see the differences.

Both roof structures provide enough strength to take my full body weight. This is important as I needed to get on the roof to fit the felt. Visit my original post for the construction of the right hand image.

I used the five 70x45mm C16 for the roof rafters. These were all screwed in using 80mm screws. As you can see above I used the door frame to support the mid rafters. The side walls were used to support the outer rafters and a purlin at one end was used to support the rest.

Here is a picture of the original building as I started to add the roofing OSB boards.

Original building

Between the two I would say the original roof was stronger. The next job was to add the roof boards to the extension. This was a simple cut to length and lift onto the roof. I cut the boards using a circular saw then used the ladders to screw each board into place using 35mm screws.

Once I had all the 9mm OSB 3 boards fixed I decided to add a waterproof barrier. This would protect the structure whilst I finished things off. I used the same plastic sheeting as before. The roof will eventually be finished off with felt.

My next job was to remove all the cladding from the original structure and add 9mm OSB 3 boards which will help strengthen and insulate the building. I cut the boards to size with my circular saw and screwed them onto the original CLS timber frame. I then covered the boards with a waterproof plastic sheet (recommended you use a breathable membrane) and then added the cladding back over this.

I skipped this stage to save a little money but ideally you should fit 23mm x 44mm battens over the membrane, that run from the top of the wall to the ground. The cladding is then secured to these battens, also known as furring strips. These would be fitted about 500mm apart and will allow air to circulate between the water barrier and the cladding.

I then continued this process around the rest of the new extension.

In the above image you can see that I’ve started to add the frame for the door.

I then returned to the original structure to complete the insulation and thicker walls. I started by removing all the cladding from one wall. I then cut and fitted the 9mm OSB 3 boards to the outer side of the wall. As you can see the space is quite busy with my hoardings so I had to work around all this.

I then sealed any gaps with silicone sealant to create a water and air tight barrier. Another layer of waterproof plastic sheeting was then added over the top of this. (on the outside). I could then add the cladding back on top of this.

Here I have returned to the original structure as sealed any gaps with silicone sealant. I wanted the structure to be as sound proof as possible and this would help. Whilst I am taking every care to seal the structure I’m also mindful that there needs to be some airflow through the building to prevent moisture build up which leads to damp and mould growth. For this reason I will be adding a window with air vents at a later date.

With the exterior wall completed I turned my attention to the interior.

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The garden office interior

I started to think about where I wanted power in the garden office. I used 2.5mm twin & earth cable for the sockets and 1.5mm twin and earth for the lighting. I also purchased a small 2 way garage consumer unit to run the power. I’m only running the cable but I will have an electrician in to wire and test everything.

Cables can be fed through the CLS timber frames. Simply drill holes and feed the cable. Try following a cable diagram like this for some help. You can wire everything up but it will all need to be signed off by a qualified electrician before you start using it.

I’ve also started adding the insulation at this point. Most of the insulation sheets fit directly into the gaps but for some, I had to cut with a knife to fit.

The wiring has been folded in the locations I intend to add sockets. Here is a shopping list for the electricals.

ItemSizeQuantityCost
3 core 2. 5mm (twin and earth) (sockets)50m1£28
Sockets – double 13A switchedNA5£22
35mm Double Pattress box35mm5£6
63A 4 way Consumer unitNA1£37
3 core 1.5mm² Twin & earth cable (lighting)25m1£12.50
10A 1 way White Single Light SwitchNA1£2
White Batten strip light 43W 4400lm1.2m2£72
TOTAL£179.50

I then returned to the new part of the structure to start adding the insulation.

Again this was a simple push in to fill the gaps. Some pieces were cut to fit with a Stanley knife. The noggins are located 120cm up so that one insulation board fit nicely. The CLS timber is 63mm thick and the insulation is 50mm thick which is fine. It’s good to have a small air gap in the wall as this traps warm air and limits sound movement between the layers.

I’m now adding the plasterboard directly over the timber frame. Ideally you should add another layer of 9mm oSB 3 boards before this but I am skipping this part to save money. These should be fitted using plasterboard screws only and screwed into the CLS timber. Boards can easily be cut to shape using a sharp Stanley knife on one face and then snapping the board. I used some of the CLS timber to cut long straight lines. Here is a quick video to demonstrate.

The ceiling was the tricky part. To make things easier ensure the insulation fits snuggly into the gaps and it shouldn’t fall back out. Failing this you can use some masking tape to hold them in whilst you add the plasterboard on top.

Because I worked on my garden office on my own it was very difficult lifting an entire piece of plasterboard onto the ceiling and screwing it in so I either cut the boards a bit smaller or I constructed a T shaped holding device out of the CLS timber. This allowed me to hold the plasterboard to the ceiling hands free whilst I added all the screws.

With all the plasterboards securely fixed in place I then went back and started filling all the gaps and holes. It’s a good idea to go over all the gaps with a jointing tape and fill holes with a standard wall filler.

This takes you up to my current progress on the build.

I will be continuing this garden office over the next couple of months so check in shortly for the finishing touches. Thanks for reading so far.

My next jobs will be taken on when the weather warms up a bit. I hope to have things finished off by April 2021. Here is the remaining job list:

Update May 2021

I’ve made a little progress but not as much as I’d like. I’ve added the felt roof, completed the cladding, added facia boards and painted the outside. Here’s a couple of pics.

Update December 2021

Sadly I’ve not had time to finish this garden office We decided to move house so the project has been handed over to the new owners. On a plus side, we have moved to a new property and I’ve started work on a whole new project. You can see progress on my new post here.

Update June 2022 – This fully insulated building is now complete. It has

I purchased the log cabin pack from Garden Buildings Direct. They have a great selection of garden offices and log cabins which can be modified for the perfect outdoor work space. I’m currently working on the interior of mine to make it warm and functional.

We spoke to a representative from Sheldon Bosley Knight, who are estate agents in Evesham, they said, “We recommend a log cabin for individuals who have decided to build a garden office because they are affordable and there are several log cabins you can choose from for your specific needs. Furthermore, log cabins are a stylish and efficient way to maximise space outside your home, they are cheaper, easy to construct than extending your property in order to have an office.

Did you enjoy this post about my garden office build? Have a look at some of my other home and garden DIY projects:

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How to plan "garden rooms": tips from a landscape designer

Garden rooms are created by analogy with the rooms in the house. In fact, that's why they got that name. Each separate zone of the site is intended for a certain type of activity and is drawn up accordingly.

It is important not only to divide the plot into zones, but also to do it correctly so that the garden remains harmonious and beautiful. Natalya Myagkova, a landscape designer and head of the New Garden online school, tells how to avoid mistakes when creating green rooms. nine0003

Natalia, what are "garden rooms"?

Photo by Oksana Aisler

- Garden rooms are separate functional areas of the site. They have no ceiling, but have at least three walls. But that's not the point. The main thing is that, like in the house, each room is designed for some specific activities. Therefore, it is necessary to create these zones not where the eye stops, but to think over the convenience of use in the future garden.

Comfort and coziness are the two main points for which we divide the plot into garden rooms. Agree, it is much more convenient when everything you need, for example, for receiving guests or working in the garden, is collected in one place. Also, a person feels more protected in a space proportionate to him. nine0003

What are garden rooms like?

- A variety of things. The main ones can be distinguished: the entrance area, the recreation area (which can be divided into an active recreation area and a quiet recreation area), a garden area, an orchard area and an economic one.

Photo by Natalia Myagkova

The entrance area, or front room, is the hallmark of your home. In the entrance area, there should be a feeling of joy from meeting with the garden. At the same time, it should be adapted for parking a car, receiving guests. nine0003

Photo by Natalia Myagkova

There are many functions at the recreation room. Here you can dine and receive guests, relax on a swing or sunbathe on sun loungers. You can equip a place for yoga or a hobby, arrange a children's room with a playground or a sandbox.

What should be considered when designing a particular garden room?

Photo by Oksana Karandashova

- First, you need to clearly understand what you plan to do in it. Based on this, approach its filling. Take, for example, a garden area. In addition to beds and a greenhouse, water for irrigation, a building with inventory, and a compost site are needed here. It would be nice if there was a bench. And for many, the desktop is important. And you need to arrange it so that you can move between the beds in the shortest way with or without a trolley. nine0003

Photo by Natalia Myagkova

Next, consider where to place the garden. There are two options here - near or away from home. They are located nearby if this is the most suitable place for growing vegetables - it is sunny here and there is no excess humidity. Or such is the wish of those who care for the garden. Since this is not the most attractive part of the site, make the garden beautiful or close it off with a ranch fence. Yes, a small fence along the border of the garden is a good way to separate this room from the rest, if you can not do it with the help of plants. nine0003

Photo by Natalya Myagkova

If we take the dining area, the proximity of the barbecue or hearth, sink, work surface and dining table is important here. It is also important to consider the position of the sun at certain times of the day. No matter how comfortable you arrange such a zone, if during the family dinner it is under the scorching sun, then you will not be able to use it. Or you have to build a gazebo for shade.

The more often you plan to use the garden room, the closer it should be to the house. nine0003

You mentioned that garden rooms have walls. What can act as a "wall" in the garden?

Photo by Natalia Myagkova

– Indeed, we need walls to delimit space. One of the walls can be a wall of an outbuilding, a house, and even a fence.

Photo by Anna Kobylkina

The most beautiful option is green walls made of plants. These include traditional clipped hedges, as well as shrub compositions, borders and row plantings of flowering shrubs - all this will either completely separate one room from another, or create a visual separation. nine0003

Photo by Yulia Kupinskaya

Garden screens are very convenient. They are used when there is little space, but you need to completely separate one zone from another. If you need a piece of land 80 cm wide for a 1.2 m high hedge, then a high screen will take up much less space. It can be entwined with creepers, such as clematis, Brown's honeysuckle, or a climbing rose. Looks nice when the arch is part of the screen.

Photo by Natalia Myagkova

Since there are only three walls in the garden rooms, it is important that you can see from the point where you are for a long time. For example, in the entrance area - this is a gate or a porch, in the rest room - a dining table or a swing, in the garden - a bench.

This point is called the viewpoint, and the most beautiful composition of plants that you want to look at for a long time is located opposite this point.

Would you like to learn more about hardy plants for your garden arrangements? Download the free book by Natalia Myagkova "How to use plants to create a beautiful garden". nine0003

From the book you will learn:

This is not a boring textbook of botany, but an exciting story for lovers of their garden. This book will change the way you think about plants in the garden. nine0003

Comfort and coziness are the perfect addition to beauty. Make your garden comfortable and enjoy every moment spent outdoors.

DIY garden room - design and decoration | DIY

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