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Munstead Lavender Plant Care & Growing Guide

Looking for a flavorful and fragrant culinary lavender plant for the herb garden. Look no further than Munstead Lavender!

Munstead Lavender is an heirloom variety of English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) considered to be the best lavender for cooking. Munstead is known for its herbal, floral, sweet flavor in culinary applications. These compact plants are also highly ornamental and are often used as edging plants in herb gardens and formal potagers. Established plants are drought tolerant and low maintenance, typically requiring fertilizing and pruning only once per year.

Read on to learn all about Munstead Lavender!

Munstead Lavender: The Basics

Where To Buy Munstead Lavender Plants

Where To Plant Munstead Lavender

How To Plant Munstead Lavender

How To Grow & Care For Munstead Lavender

Watering Munstead Lavender

Fertilizing Munstead Lavender

Pruning Munstead Lavender

Harvesting Munstead Lavender

When To Harvest Munstead Lavender

How To Harvest Munstead Lavender

Using Munstead Lavender

Similar Lavender Varieties To Consider

Hidcote Lavender vs Munstead Lavender

Common Plant Diseases Affecting Munstead Lavender

Common Garden Pests Affecting Munstead Lavender

Resources

Munstead Lavender: The Basics

Munstead Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia ‘Munstead’) is an heirloom lavender cultivar known for its excellent flavor and aroma in cooking and baking. This variety is a favorite in the herb garden and in English cottage gardens and is the top lavender variety for cooking. Munstead Lavender is thought to have been bred by Gertrude Jekyll, a famous garden designer and plantswoman from England who popularized flower borders at her home called “Munstead Wood”. Munstead Lavender is one of the most popular varieties of English Lavender (True Lavender, L. vera).

Munstead Lavender can be planted alone as a single plant in the herb garden or as a low lavender hedge or mass planting in a border garden. Established plants grow to reach about 24″ tall (60 cm) at maturity (14″ mound of gray-green foliage when not flowering). These small evergreen shrubs are cold-tolerant in the range of Hardiness Zone 5-9 and are resistant to both deer and drought conditions. Munstead is also more resistant to heat than many other English Lavender varieties. Munstead Lavender can also be grown indoors as an attractive lavender topiary.

Munstead Lavender is typically grown for culinary and herbal applications. The purple flower spikes are generally harvested in early summer as soon as the first flowers open. Munstead Lavender has a classic “true lavender” floral flavor that is both sweet and herbal. Common applications include lavender shortbread cookies, lavender-infused honey, and lavender syrup for handcrafted drinks and desserts. Munstead Lavender can also be used in fragrant crafts, potpourri, soap making, perfumes, scented sachets, and floral arrangements (both dried and fresh).

“‘Munstead’ is reputed to have been raised by Gertrude Jekyll, United Kingdom. Introduced by Barr in 1916, it is well suited to hedging, and fragrant or ornamental use.”

Lavender: The Growers Guide, by Virginia McNaughton

Where To Buy Munstead Lavender Plants

Lavandula angustifolia ‘Munstead’ is widely available from local nurseries, larger garden centers, and online plant shops. Here are some shops that offer Munstead Lavender for sale:

Munstead Lavender plants are sold under a variety of common names, including “Munstead Blue Lavender” and “Munstead Dwarf Lavender”.

Where To Plant Munstead Lavender

Munstead Lavender can be grown in Plant Hardiness Zones 5-9. This variety is a cultivar of English Lavender, which is native to the Mediterranean region but has enough cold hardiness to be grown in cooler climates such as the UK and cooler North American climates. Plants grown in the coldest winter temperature zones may require extra winter care such as winter protection covers or mulch. Munstead Lavender is also quite resistant to overly hot weather and is commonly grown as an ornamental lavender in hot arid climates and warm winter climates.

Munstead Lavender should be planted in a full sun location with well-drained sandy soil. In terms of sunlight, the plant’s leaves should receive at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. Well-drained soil like sandy loam at the planting site allows excess water to pass through easily, leaving small air pockets in the soil voids (and avoiding excessive moisture). Avoid planting Lavender anywhere water tends to pool after rainfall. If you must plant in clay soil, amend the soil with organic compost, peat, and/or coconut coir to create a lighter drier mix.

Munstead Lavender grows best in a neutral to alkaline soil pH. While it is somewhat tolerant of acidic soil, it doesn’t thrive in these planting locations unless the soil pH is addressed. Overly acidic soil should be amended with garden lime prior to planting and potentially once each year.

Munstead is one of the smallest varieties of English Lavender, making it a good choice for a low-growing small evergreen shrub or as a container herb plant on the patio. The bushy compact mounded form of this plant is also well-suited to edging around larger flower garden beds. It can also be planted in rock gardens or pea gravel patios.

Lavender is both deer resistant and rabbit resistant. This makes it a good choice for areas with lots of hungry rabbits and in areas frequently visited by deer. Lavender is also bee-friendly and attracts a host of beneficial pollinators and insects including bumblebees, hummingbirds, and butterflies.

How To Plant Munstead Lavender

Munstead Lavender is best planted in early spring or in the fall. Transplanting woody perennials like lavender is usually most successful when done early in the morning, on a cloudy day or when the planting area is otherwise shielded from harsh direct sunlight. Planting outside of the proper planting time may stress the plant and delay the growth of the roots into surrounding soil.

Here are the basic steps for planting Munstead Lavender:

  1. Dig a hole for the plant’s root ball. The hole should be about twice as wide as the pot the plant was sold in, but no deeper than the potting soil inside the planter. Pour some water into the hole and watch to ensure the water drains down easily into the soil.
  2. Pull the Munstead Lavender plant out of the nursery pot. Take a look at the roots, if not too many roots are visible on the outside of the root ball, it can go straight into the planting hole. If, however, there are thick white roots circling around the root ball (particularly at the bottom), you may wish to gently loosen the root ball and coax the thicker roots out of the circular pattern and into more of an outwards direction.
  3. Backfill the planting hole gently around the sides of the Lavender plant’s root ball. Use the soil that came out of the hole to backfill it, gently tamping it down as you go. If your soil is nutrient-poor, you may wish to mix an organic transplanting fertilizer like Espoma Bio-Tone Starter Plus into the soil used to backfill the planting hole.
  4. Apply a ~1″ thick layer of compost as an organic mulch over the surface of the soil to keep weeds down, buffer soil from temperature swings, and provide a natural source of slow-release plant nutrients.
  5. Water the newly-planted Lavender thoroughly after planting.
‘munstead’ is a popular culinary variety of english lavender

How To Grow & Care For Munstead Lavender

Munstead Lavender is a relatively low-maintenance plant to grow and care for.

Watering Munstead Lavender

Munstead Lavender is relatively drought-tolerant once established in the landscape, but it does take a year or two for the roots to grow enough to support the plant in dry soil. Carefully monitor the soil moisture for a year after planting and water whenever the top inch of soil dries out.

Watering may be infrequent in moist spring/fall weather but the plants may require irrigation several times a week during heatwaves or dry summer weather. Watering right at the soil level (such as with drip irrigation) is preferable to overhead watering as moistening leaves regularly can lead to fungal disease. Disease can be more of a problem in wet climates with high humidity.

Once the plants have well-established perennial roots in the surrounding soil, Munstead Lavender is tolerant of dry soil and the plants don’t need regular watering in most conditions. Don’t overwater established plants as overly damp soil can stress the plant and potentially lead to root rot if the soil is poorly drained. Limit supplemental watering except in overly arid climates. Munstead Lavender tends to be low maintenance once established in the landscape.

Fertilizing Munstead Lavender

Munstead Lavender plants may need to be fed with an organic fertilizer when the soil is nutrient-deficient(see garden soil testing to learn how to test soil for plant nutrients). Here are some natural slow-release fertilizers that can work well for lavender:

Lavender plants can be fed with fertilizer in the spring after the plants break winter dormancy and again in late summer after flowering has finished. Timing fertilizing will depend on the USDA planting zone number, with cooler climates waiting for the ground to thaw prior to fertilizing plants and warm winter areas fertilizing as early as late winter. Follow the instructions on the specific fertilizer product for application details. In planting locations with naturally acidic soil, you may also wish to apply garden lime in the spring or in the autumn.

Pruning Munstead Lavender

As a cultivar of English Lavender, Munstead plants require annual pruning for best results. Munstead Lavender is most commonly pruned in the late summer after the plant flowers. This annual pruning is generally quite significant on mature plants, removing 1/3 to 1/2 of the foliage. For instance, if most stems with leaves are about 18″ long, they can be cut back to 9″-12″ long each. Here is a detailed article all about when to cut back lavender.

Munstead plants may also be lightly sheared along the sides in the early spring if planted in a formal hedge in a potager. Spring is also a good time to look for and remove any stems that died during the winter. Also take the opportunity to remove any stems that are dead, dying, diseased, or damaged. These stems can be removed right down to the base of the plant.

If Munstead Lavender is not pruned hard annually, these plants tend to develop woody centers that are difficult to shape in future years. Gardeners who prefer lower-maintenance plants may consider planting French Lavender or Spanish Lavender instead of Munstead English Lavender.

Harvesting Munstead Lavender

Munstead Lavender is typically harvested in early summer as the first flowers start to bloom on the plant. Harvested flowers can be used in cooking, fresh bouquets, or dried for fragrant crafts.

When To Harvest Munstead Lavender

Timing the lavender harvest depends upon how the lavender will be used. Most gardeners try to harvest Munstead Lavender as the first flowers on the spike open, as this is when the flowers reach maximum flavor and fragrance. If left to flower on the plant, the lavender can still be harvested but it may have less flavor and the dried flowers tend to fall off the stalk.

How To Harvest Munstead Lavender

Harvest your Munstead Lavender flower spikes in the morning. Wait until the morning dew has dried but try to harvest the flowers before the heat of the day becomes too intense. Use a clean sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears to cut each stem off the plant. You can remove the stem down to half its height. For instance, a flower stem that stretches 20″ from ground level to the tip of the flower spike can be cut to 10″ long in most cases.

Using Munstead Lavender

Munstead Lavender is well suited to use in cooking, potpourri, and fragrant crafts. Munstead is considered the best variety of lavender for culinary applications, including baked goods, summer drinks, and specialty dessert syrups.

A lavender recipe may call for either fresh or dried lavender. Wash the lavender thoroughly prior to using it in cooking. To dry Munstead Lavender, either hang them or lay them flat to dry in a warm location with good air circulation. Lavender can also be dry-roasted in the oven.

Similar Lavender Varieties To Consider

If Munstead Lavender is unavailable or otherwise not the variety of choice, there are plenty of other cultivars to consider. If culinary use is desired, use Avice Hill Lavender or Hidcote Lavender if Munstead is not available. Lodden Blue Lavender is a good choice for those looking for a slightly smaller plant that still has darker flowers. For a particularly compact plant with purple flowers, try Thumbelina Leigh Lavender.

Hidcote Lavender vs Munstead Lavender

Munstead Lavender is commonly compared to Hidcote Lavender. Both cultivars are heirloom varieties bred in the UK, though Munstead is thought to be several decades older than Hidcote. Both types tend to reach about 24″ (60 cm) tall and both have dark purple flowers. While both types are excellent for culinary applications, Mustead Lavender is typically seen as the best variety of lavender for cooking while Hidcote is more often preferred for ornamental or scented gardens.

Common Plant Diseases Affecting Munstead Lavender

While English Lavender plants like Munstead are generally quite hardy, there are several fungal, bacterial, and viral diseases that can affect them.

Fungal disease like leaf spot fungi (Septoria lavandulae) and root rot caused by Phytophthora mold can affect Munstead Lavender. This generally happens in areas with high rainfall and/or frequent overhead watering. Root rot typically also occurs where the soil does not drain out excess water. Take care to ensure soil is draining well and that air is circulating around the base of the plant. Disease is most common in rainy, humid climates.

English Lavender plants are sometimes affected by Alfalfa Mosaic Virus, which creates a yellow “mosaic” pattern on the leaves of affected plants. This virus is thought to be spread by aphids and also by non-sterile pruning tools.

Common Garden Pests Affecting Munstead Lavender

Munstead Lavender plants are sometimes attacked by garden pests such as Spittle Bugs, Mealy Bugs, and Aphids. These bugs can generally be sprayed off the plant with a sharp stream of water but may require an organic pesticide spray (such as Bonide Neem Oil) once the pests have become established on the plant(s).

English Lavender is rarely attacked by mammals due to its strong scent. Deer generally avoid Munstead English Lavender completely, especially if the plant has flowers on it. Young plants may be attacked by rabbits and other smaller burrowing mammals. Rabbits tend to dig around the roots rather than attacking the foliage or flowers.

Resources

MORE LAVENDER ARTICLES

How to Grow and Care for Lavender ‘Munstead’ – Gardener Report

Lavender ‘Munstead’ (Lavandula angustifolia) is a perennial, woody sub shrub that is popular with both gardeners and commercial growers. Lavender ‘Munstead’ is one of the hardiest varieties of lavender, capable of tolerating cold and hot climates and produces fine fragrance all year round.

Munsteads compact size lends itself well for decorative hedging, container planting and as an attractive boarder plant.

Keep reading for more details on where to grow and how to care for lavender Munstead…

Plant profile:

Care/requirementsLavender Munstead
Flowering:Flowers usually in mid June and last for 4 weeks.
Fragrance:Exudes a strong, sweet fragrance all year round from the foliage and from the flowers in summer.
Size at maturity:12 inches (30 cm) tall and 18 inches (45 cm) wide.
Longevity:Lives up 15 years with good care.
Light requirements:Full sun.
Preferred soil:Well draining, sandy soil with low to medium fertility.
Pruning:Hard prune once at the start of spring. Deadheading in the summer will promote more flowers.
Watering:Water once every 2 weeks in the growing season if there has been no rainfall. Do not water in winter.
Soil pH:Will grow in slightly acidic soil but prefers alkaline pH. Grows in soils with a pH of 6.5-8.
Hardiness:Tolerates frost, snow, ice in through winter in cold temperate climates. Hardy in USDA zones 5-9. Munstead also tolerates high heat and is resistant to drought.
Pots and containers:Grow very well in pots and containers thanks to the preferable draining conditions, and its proportionate size.
Best time for planting:Spring is the best time to plant, although munstead can be successfully planted throughout the growing season up until the fall.
Spacing:Plant Munstead lavenders 2 feet apart for good airflow to reduce the chance of fungal disease.

Where will Lavender ‘Munstead’ grow?

Lavender Munstead is perennial plant that is valued for its cold hardiness and can live in a variety of climates. Munstead can tolerate snow, ice and cold temperatures during winter and live for many years. This is in contrast to French lavenders which will die in the first frost without winter protection.

Munstead is also drought resistant and can grow in hot climates with little rainfall, thanks to its adaptations to its native Mediterranean climate.

Munstead will grow in areas of high rainfall. It is cultivated extensively from California all the way up to the pacific north west, with commercial lavender growers in Washington where the climate has higher rainfall and its popular in England.

If you live in a climate with high rainfall then it is essential that you have very well draining soil and you know how and when to water the lavender, which is detailed further down this article.

The lavender will grow, flower and produce oil and fragrance in many climates as long as it receives full sun. Like all lavenders, ‘Munstead’ does not grow well in the shade.

The number of flower your lavender produces and the amount of fragrance is correlated with the amount of sun, so always choose a sunny location.

Munstead can also grow well in open and windy locations as this mimics their native environment in coastal areas of southern France, Italy and Spain.

Unfortunately there is not a lavender species or variety that grows well in areas of high humidity. Climates with high humidity increase the chance of lavenders developing the fungal disease root rot.

Flowering and Fragrance

Lavender munstead is not only cultivated for gardeners because of its hardy qualities but also commercially for its oils and fine fragrance.

English lavenders have the sweetest aroma of any lavenders and the smell is more pronounced then French varieties. The scent is exuded all year round from the foliage and particularly when the flowers are in bloom in the summer.

Flowering will depend on climate and specific weather conditions but ‘Munstead’ often flowers in the middle of June and blooms for around four weeks.

Regular deadheading of faded flowers will encourage more to be produced and keep the lavender tidy.

Longevity

English lavenders are the longest living lavender species by a significant amount. Whilst French lavenders may flower for longer, they only live for 4 to 5 years even with good care.

English lavenders such as ‘Munstead’ are the hardiest and the longest lived. With good care and the right conditions lavender ‘Munstead’ can live up to 15 years.

Therefore lavender ‘Munstead’ represents excellent value for money and will waft its sweet aroma through the garden for many years.

The most important practices to ensure lavender munstead lives a long time are, regular pruning, well draining soil and full sun. Pruning the lavender every year is essential to slow down the lavenders woody base from growing.

Read my article for more way to increase a lavenders life span.

How to care for lavender Munstead

Lavender Munstead variety of English lavender

Although ‘Munstead’ is a variety of English lavender, it originates in the Mediterranean region of Europe as with all lavender species.

Therefore to care for Munstead in your garden you have to recreate some of the conditions of the plants native Mediterranean environment. This is particularly important for the soil preference, watering and access to sunlight.

However you do not need a Mediterranean climate to grow ‘Munstead’ thanks to its hardiness and adaptability to cold temperatures.

Creating the optimal conditions for growing ‘Munstead’ is easy and once you recreate the conditions, the plant is very low maintenance.

Soil preference

The most important aspect when it comes to caring for lavender ‘Munstead’ is the soil type.

‘Munstead’ requires the soil have a porous texture that allows water to drain away from the roots quickly. Lavenders are hardy, disease resistant plants, however they are susceptible to root rot which is caused by persistently wet soil, hence the need for quick drainage.

The sandy and stony soils of the lavenders native Mediterranean are not only draining quickly but also do not absorb and hold onto water as rich organic soils do.

Lavender ‘Munstead’ is a great choice for colder temperate climates thanks to its cold hardiness. In cold climates that experience high rainfall, sharp draining soil is essential to ensuring that the plant survives winter when evaporation is lower and the lavender is in a state of dormancy.

When planting lavender ‘Munstead’ it is essential to amend the soil with sand or gravel to replicate the soil conditions in the lavenders native environment. Read my guide to learn more about how to create the optimal soil mix for lavenders.

Soil fertility: Contrary to what you may think, lavender ‘Munstead’ actually thrive in nutrient poor soils. If the lavender is planted straight into rich, organic soils with lots of nutrients the this will promote, leggy foliage growth which will be at the expense of flowers.

‘Munstead’ needs a low to medium fertility soil to grow healthy, produce flowers and fragrance and live for many years.

Avoid using enriched compost, manure or fertilizer when preparing the soil for lavenders. All that is needed is a general potting soil mix, amended with around a third of course builders sand or gravel. Soil mix for lavenders.

This will create the right soil structure and the sand does not contribute nutrients to the soil and therefore balances the soils fertility so that its the right conditions for lavender.

Soil pH: The hardy English lavenders such as lavender Munstead and Hidcote are able to cope with mildly acidic soils with a pH of around 6. 5 (pH 7 is neutral) better then french lavender varieties. However all lavenders prefer soils that are slightly alkaline, up pH 8.

Overly acidic soils (with a pH lower then 6.5) will cause the lavender stress as it will not be able to access certain nutrients with this level of soil acidity. If you are unsure of your garden soils pH then read my article on lavenders and acidic soils which explains how to easily measure soil pH and how easy it is to amend acidic soils.

Watering Munstead lavender

One of the most important aspect of caring for munstead lavenders is watering them correctly.

Always bear in mind that lavenders originate in a hot, dry climate with blazing sunshine and little rainfall.

Therefore lavender will only need watering infrequently.

All lavenders are drought resistant so more problems occur with over watering then they ever do from under watering.

Signs of an over watered lavender are a drooping appearance with brown foliage, which superficially looks how you would perceive an under watered plant to look, so don’t be fooled. (Read my article for the solutions for dying lavender).

Lavenders grow best with a ‘soak and dry’ style of watering where they receive a generous amount of water in one go. This will encourage the roots to grow and establish in the soil which further ensures the plants resistance to drought.

Pruning

All lavender varieties benefit greatly from a hard prune once per year.

The benefits of pruning lavenders are:

  1. Pruning increases the lavenders longevity by slowing down unproductive growth at the woody base.
  2. A yearly prune maintains a nice compact mound shape to the lavender which helps to resist harmful weather (snow and ice) and looks more tidy.
  3. Lavenders only produce blooms on new seasons growth. Pruning stimulates the growth of new stems to support more flowers.

Opinion amongst experts and commercial growers is divided as to whether to prune in the Spring or Fall.

I personally have seen the best results from pruning English lavenders in the Spring as this helps to stimulate new growth which produces the most flowers.

The right time to prune is when new green growth is beginning to show at the base of the plant.

Prune lavender by cutting away the top third of last seasons green growth and shape into a mound with either pruners or a pair of shears.

Always make sure that you cut the flexible growth and not into the woody base of the plant. The woody base does not regrow after it has been cut and it is prone to splitting so make sure to just cut the flexible top third of the lavender.

Watch this YouTube video for more information on pruning and a visual guide of how the lavender should look like after it has been pruned.

When is the best time to plant?

The best time to plant lavender ‘Munstead’ is in the early spring (April/May) as the soil is heating up.

Planting at this time is optimal because it gives the plant time to adjust to its new surroundings and become established before the time for flowering in June.

It is possible to plant ‘Munstead’ throughout the growing season, however if planted in June or July, the shock of transplant can reduce the amount the plant blooms and you will have to wait till next year for a good display of flowers.

Planting after flowering in August is the another possibility but you will have to be particularly diligent when it comes to watering after planting due to the higher temperatures and lower rainfall.

Planting in the Fall can be more risky as this gives the plant less time for the roots to become established before the lavender winter dormancy.

If the lavender does not have time to establish properly in new soil before winter then it is at much higher risk of root rot as winter soils tend to be cold and wet for long periods of time.

Munstead can be planted in the Fall in warmer climates that do not experience frost in winter and have lower rainfall as the risk of root rot is not as great.

How far apart to plant

Lavender munstead is a very popular variety of lavender for making decorative hedges thanks to its compact size, fine fragrance and hardiness.

When in bloom the flowers form an abundant cascade of beautiful purple flowers that makes an attractive statement in any garden.

Plant lavender munstead every 18 inches to 2 feet when planning for a decorative hedge. This is the optimal distance for the lavender to form a seamless display of flowers when in summer bloom whilst still leaving some room for airflow around the foliage.

Each lavender needs some room to allow the occasional breeze through the foliage to reduce the chance of fungal disease.

The closer together lavender ‘Munstead’ is planted the importance of quick draining soil and low humidity will increase which highlights the importance of amending the soil with sand or grit before planting.

Planting in pots or raised beds is a great way to improve the drainage and increase the potential for more airflow around the lavenders foliage.

In borders plant ‘Munstead’ every 2-3 feet for best results. This distance ensures the each plant receives enough light.

Growing in pots and containers

Lavender munstead is one of the best lavenders for growing in pots and containers. Pots create the favourable drainage conditions that lavenders appreciate and Munstead is a nice compact size so they tend took great as ornamental plants in pots.

Pots and containers are great ways to grow lavenders if your garden soil is too wet or too acidic as you can customise the soil for the lavender preferences.

Make sure that the pot measures 16 inches across and has drainage holes in the base.

A pot this size will contain enough soil to ensure that the roots will be insulated in the winter theta there is enough nutrients and access for water for the lavender roots. Read my guide for choosing the best pot for lavenders.

The care instructions for growing lavenders in pots and containers are the same as growing in garden soil. However and advantage of pots and containers is that they will provide better airflow around the lavenders foliage which will reduce the chance of fungal disease.

Mulching

There is no need to add organic mulch such as leaf mould or compost to Munstead lavenders as this will promote conditions that are contrary to the lavender preferences.

Munstead lavenders prefer low to medium fertility soils and dry soils so a mulch such as wood bark can help with suppressing weeds.

Some commercial growers use white stone as a mulch to reflect sunlight back onto the lavender which increases the light and reduces moisture so that the lavender stay free of disease.

The increased light will also help with promoting flowers and increase oil yields, however this is not always necessary in ornamental gardens.

Key Takeaways:

How to save a lavender flower from frost

If English (narrow-leaved) lavender grows in your garden, then it is considered that it is not necessary to cover it for the winter, since this species is frost-resistant. But what if your "winter-hardy" beauty freezes slightly and clearly "asks" for shelter warmer than a snowdrift?

We think you gave the right answer to our question - you still need to cover lavender bushes for the winter! But how to do it right - we will discuss. To begin with, it is worth figuring out which varieties of lavender are suitable for growing in the middle lane. In our climatic conditions, it is difficult to grow French (broad-leaved) or Dutch lavender - these species are thermophilic and almost do not winter in our open field. Able to survive frosts without loss only varieties of narrow-leaved lavender - the only winter-hardy species. Perhaps by planting one of these varieties, you will generally save yourself from having to cover the plant for a cold period. So…

Munstead and Hidcote English lavenders are the most popular varieties with gardeners as they winter well down to -23°C, which is close to the maximum cold in our area.

Manstead is a compact, rounded shrub up to half a meter tall, with light purple flowers in summer on long thin peduncles. Lavender of this variety is unpretentious in care, very fragrant, blooms from July to September. It is also interesting in that it gives a lot of side shoots, which means that it is easy to propagate it by layering. nine0003

Hidkot are large purple inflorescences on small bushes no higher than 30 cm tall. It grows slowly and pleases the eye with flowering throughout the summer. The variety is also frost-resistant, but experienced "lavender growers" still prefer to cover the plants for the winter. Lavender Hidcote is also good because its flowers do not lose their decorative effect after drying and are great for creating bouquets.

Blue Scent Lavender is a frost hardiness champion, able to withstand winter temperatures down to -29°C In addition, its large, fragrant purple flowers will brighten up your garden throughout the summer and fall. Like the previous varieties, the bushes are compact and unpretentious in care.

Phenomenal is a hybrid of French lavender bred especially for difficult weather conditions. Plants feel great in hot and humid summers, and in winter, with good snow cover, they can withstand fairly severe frosts. Phenomenal grows up to 80 cm, has purple-blue flowers and silvery leaves. It is an excellent honey plant. nine0003

Among French lavender varieties, Grosso is popular among flower growers. It also belongs to cold-resistant varieties - under snow, plants can easily survive frosts down to -20 ° C. Compact Grosso bushes with long straight stems produce purple flowers in June-August. The variety is interesting in that it can grow for a long time (up to 10 years) in one place.

All listed varieties of lavender are resistant to low temperatures, but on one condition: there must be sufficient snow cover to cover the lavender bushes. If the winter is snowless, but frosty, or thaws often occur and a snow crust forms on the surface of the earth, there is a high risk that winter-hardy lavender varieties will die. So experienced gardeners and summer residents prefer not to rely on the weather, but rely only on themselves, so they “lay straws” in the literal and figurative sense - they cover lavender curtains even in a temperate climate. After all, it’s better to make sure right away than to lament later on frosty days that your lavender is freezing, and in the spring it’s long and painful to wait for new shoots. nine0003

French lavender is often grown in containers and pots. This allows you to simply bring it into the room with the onset of cold weather and thereby protect it from freezing. So, if you visit the dacha not infrequently, but like to spend almost all your free time there, even in winter, this option may be the most suitable for you. The only important caveat with this method of growing is that lavender pots need to be taken large, 20-30 cm in diameter, to provide enough space for a powerful root system. nine0003

What maintenance activities should be carried out in autumn to ensure that your blue gold has a good wintering? Lavender connoisseurs with considerable experience in growing this crop usually perform the following complex:

* loosening the soil under the bushes,

* watering and top dressing,

* pruning (or shearing),

* creating a protective shelter for the winter.

Let's take a closer look at each of the stages.

Lavender loves loose, breathable soil. This factor is perhaps one of the most important for her, since only in light soil will water and oxygen be supplied to the roots in sufficient quantities. In heavy clay soil, the roots of the plant are prone to rapid decay. Therefore, before wintering, be sure to loosen the ground around the bushes, removing weeds and providing aeration. nine0003

After tilling the soil and watering the lavender, you can apply fertilizer. At the same time, it must be remembered that complexes with nitrogen are intended only for spring top dressing, because. they accelerate the growth of the green mass of plants, and when cold weather sets in, the young leaves will freeze and the bush may not survive the winter at all. Therefore, in the fall it is worth feeding lavender with potassium and phosphorus - they strengthen the immune system and increase stamina. You can use, for example, potassium magnesia (15-20 g for each bush) or the Fertik Autumn complex (according to instructions). A solution of wood ash (200 g per 10 liters of water) is also suitable as a potassium supplement. nine0003

Lavender pruning is necessary for two reasons. Firstly, pruning in the summer after flowering stimulates the bushes to bloom again in early autumn. And secondly, this is a mandatory procedure that will allow the plant to more easily survive the winter. Lavender branches are usually cut to 2/3 of their length, leaving a height of 15-20 cm from the ground. You can give the bush the shape of a ball. It is important not to overdo it and cut the shoots not too short (you can not cut the lignified parts). It is advisable to completely remove all branches lying on the ground, because. they are the most susceptible to decay. As a rule, autumn pruning of lavender is done after the end of re-blooming, most often in September. You should not cut the plant just before the frost - the bushes need time to "recover" after the procedure. nine0003

While pruning lavender, you can prepare cuttings for vegetative propagation. In summer, they can be immediately stuck into the ground - with regular watering, the roots will appear pretty soon. In autumn, cuttings should be rooted in containers (pots) indoors, and planted in open ground already with the onset of spring.

Lavender should be covered only when persistent cold weather sets in, because during the thaw under the "cap" it can simply scorch. We usually do this in November. Sprigs of lavender are collected in an armful and tied - this is necessary so that the snow does not get inside the bush. The ground under the plant is mulched with peat, needles or compost. Some gardeners use fallen leaves for this purpose, we do not recommend doing this - dangerous diseases can develop in the foliage that rots under the snow. In addition, tree leaves are initially carriers of bacteria and harmful insects. From above, each bush is covered with non-woven material (for example, spunbond) or spruce branches. nine0003

Coniferous spruce is an ideal covering material for lavender. From branches of needles it is convenient to build a hut over a bush that will hold snow and at the same time let enough air through due to many small needles. In addition, microorganisms will not start in such a shelter and rodents will not settle, which can harm your "sleeping beauty". If the winter is snowy and not too frosty, then shelter from branches may not be needed - there will be enough snowdrifts. Sometimes snow is additionally thrown over the lavender bushes to make the bedspread thicker and warmer. Shelter for the winter is especially necessary for young, recently planted bushes that have not yet had time to grow a strong root system. Mature plants with powerful (up to 2 m) roots are much more resistant to cold. nine0003

There is another, not entirely obvious, but rather simple way to solve the problem with freezing lavender. You can grow it as an annual!

In addition to the usual perennials, nurseries and garden centers also sell seeds of annual varieties - for example, Normandy. This variety is cultivated as a classic annual plant: seeds are sown outdoors in spring (April-May), in summer they enjoy the view and valuable properties of fragrant lavender flowers, and in autumn a new "harvest" of seeds is harvested to repeat the cycle next year. Like perennial varieties, Normandy flowers smell great, are suitable for cutting, drying, and use in compositions. nine0003

At first glance, this way of growing lavender may seem too labor intensive. But if you evaluate the amount of effort that you spend on autumn covering events, it becomes clear that the amount of work with annual sowing is no more, and perhaps even less. So it is worth considering this method as one of the options. In addition, if you do not have a relationship with perennial lavender, this does not mean that you will never get a fragrant flower garden or border. Just try planting an annual lavender! nine0003

We wish you mild snowy winters and great lavender mood!

Lavender does not hibernate: how to save a flower from frost

If English (narrow-leaved) lavender grows in your garden, then it is considered that it is not necessary to cover it for the winter, since this species is frost-resistant. But what if your "winter-hardy" beauty freezes slightly and clearly "asks" for shelter warmer than a snowdrift?

We think you gave the right answer to our question - you still need to cover lavender bushes for the winter! But how to do it right - we will discuss. nine0003

To begin with, it is worthwhile to figure out which varieties of lavender are suitable for growing in the middle lane. In our climatic conditions, it is difficult to grow French (broad-leaved) or Dutch lavender - these species are thermophilic and almost do not winter in our open field. Able to survive frosts without loss only varieties of narrow-leaved lavender - the only winter-hardy species. Perhaps by planting one of these varieties, you will generally save yourself from having to cover the plant for a cold period. So…

Which varieties of lavender winter in the middle lane

The varieties of English lavender Munstead and Hidcote are the most popular with gardeners, because they winter well at temperatures down to -23°C, which is close to the maximum cold in central Russia.

Munstead is a compact, rounded shrub up to half a meter high: light purple flowers bloom on long thin peduncles in summer. Lavender of this variety is unpretentious in care, very fragrant, blooms from July to September. It is also interesting in that it gives a lot of side shoots, which means that it is easy to propagate it by layering. nine0003

Hidkot are large purple inflorescences on small bushes no higher than 30 cm tall. It grows slowly and pleases the eye with flowering throughout the summer. The variety is also frost-resistant, but experienced "lavender growers" still prefer to cover the plants for the winter. Lavender Hidcote is also good because its flowers do not lose their decorative effect after drying and are great for creating bouquets.

Lavender variety Blue Scent is a hardiness champion, able to withstand winter temperatures down to -29°C. In addition, its large, fragrant purple flowers will brighten up your garden throughout the summer and fall. Like the previous varieties, the bushes are compact and unpretentious in care.

Phenomenal is a French lavender hybrid bred especially for difficult weather conditions. Plants feel great in hot and humid summers, and in winter, with good snow cover, they can withstand fairly severe frosts. nine0053 Phenomenal grows up to 80 cm, has purple-blue flowers and silvery leaves. It is an excellent honey plant.

Among the varieties of French lavender, Grosso is popular with our growers. It also belongs to cold-resistant varieties - under snow, plants can easily survive frosts down to -20 ° C. Compact bushes Grosso with long straight stems produce purple flowers in June-August. The variety is interesting in that it can grow for a long time (up to 10 years) in one place. nine0003

All listed varieties of lavender are resistant to low temperatures, but on one condition: there must be sufficient snow cover to cover the lavender bushes. If the winter is snowless, but frosty, or thaws often occur and a snow crust forms on the surface of the earth, there is a high risk that winter-hardy lavender varieties will die.

So experienced gardeners and summer residents prefer not to rely on the weather, but rely only on themselves, so they "lay straws" in the literal and figurative sense - they cover lavender curtains even in a temperate climate. After all, it’s better to make sure right away than to lament later on frosty days that your lavender is freezing, and in the spring it’s long and painful to wait for new shoots. nine0003

French lavender is often grown in containers and pots. This allows you to simply bring it into the room with the onset of cold weather and thereby protect it from freezing. So, if you visit the dacha not infrequently, but like to spend almost all your free time there, even in winter, this option may be the most suitable for you.

The only important nuance with this method of growing is that the pots for lavender should be taken large, 20-30 cm in diameter, in order to provide enough space for a powerful root system. nine0003

Winterizing lavender

What fall care needs to be taken to ensure your blue gold has a good wintering? Connoisseurs of lavender, who have considerable experience in growing this crop, usually perform the following complex:

Let's take a closer look at each of the stages. nine0003

Lavender loves loose, breathable soil. This factor is perhaps one of the most important for her, since only in light soil will water and oxygen be supplied to the roots in sufficient quantities. In heavy clay soil, the roots of the plant are prone to rapid decay. Therefore, before wintering, be sure to loosen the ground around the bushes, removing weeds and providing aeration.

After tilling the soil and watering the lavender, you can apply fertilizer. At the same time, it must be remembered that complexes with nitrogen are intended only for spring top dressing, because. they accelerate the growth of the green mass of plants, and when cold weather sets in, the young leaves will freeze and the bush may not survive the winter at all. nine0003

Therefore, in autumn it is worth feeding lavender with potassium and phosphorus - they strengthen the immune system and increase endurance. You can use, for example, potassium magnesia (15-20 g for each bush) or the Fertik Autumn complex (according to instructions). A solution of wood ash (200 g per 10 liters of water) is also suitable as a potassium supplement.

Lavender pruning is necessary for two reasons. Firstly, pruning in the summer after flowering stimulates the bushes to bloom again in early autumn. And secondly, this is a mandatory procedure that will allow the plant to more easily survive the winter. nine0003

Lavender twigs are usually cut to 2/3 of their length, leaving a height of 15-20 cm from the ground. You can give the bush the shape of a ball. It is important not to overdo it and cut the shoots not too short (you can not cut the lignified parts). It is advisable to completely remove all branches lying on the ground, because. they are the most susceptible to decay.

As a rule, autumn pruning of lavender is done after the end of re-blooming, most often in September. You should not cut the plant just before the frost - the bushes need time to "recover" after the procedure. nine0003

While pruning lavender, you can prepare cuttings for vegetative propagation. In summer, they can be immediately stuck into the ground - with regular watering, the roots will appear pretty soon. In autumn, cuttings should be rooted in containers (pots) indoors, and planted in open ground already with the onset of spring.

And finally, we are building a shelter!

How to cover lavender for the winter

Lavender should be covered only when persistent cold weather sets in, because during the thaw under the "cap" it can simply scorch. Usually in the middle lane this is done in November. nine0003

Lavender sprigs are collected in a bunch and tied - this is necessary so that snow does not get inside the bush. The ground under the plant is mulched with peat, needles or compost. Some gardeners use fallen leaves for this purpose, we do not recommend doing this - dangerous diseases can develop in the foliage that rots under the snow. In addition, tree leaves are initially carriers of bacteria and harmful insects. From above, each bush is covered with non-woven material (for example, spunbond) or spruce branches. nine0003

Pine branches are the ideal covering material for lavender. From branches of needles it is convenient to build a hut over a bush that will hold snow and at the same time let enough air through due to many small needles. In addition, microorganisms will not start in such a shelter and rodents will not settle, which can harm your "sleeping beauty".

If the winter is snowy and not too cold, then shelter from branches may not be needed - there will be enough snowdrifts. Sometimes snow is additionally thrown over the lavender bushes to make the bedspread thicker and warmer. nine0003

Shelter for the winter is especially necessary for young, recently planted bushes that have not yet had time to grow a strong root system. Mature plants with powerful (up to 2 m) roots are much more resistant to cold.

Lavender as an annual

There is another, not quite obvious, but rather simple way to solve the problem with freezing lavender. You can grow it as an annual!

In addition to the usual perennials, nurseries and garden centers also sell seeds of annual varieties - for example, Normandy .

Learn more