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How to Grow and Train a Young Wisteria Plant Into a Tree

When I decided to plant Wisteria in my yard, I knew that I didn’t have a big arbor or pergola to support the mature vine. Still, I longed for the romantic purple blooms and whimsical, twisted stems that make Wisteria plants so appealing. That’s when I learned that I could train my Wisteria to grow into a tree form instead of a massive, climbing vine. 

To grow and train a young Wisteria plant into a tree form, you’ll need a strong support post to help form the trunk. Proper care is essential, along with careful pruning to achieve your desired shape. Your Wisteria tree will need ongoing maintenance to help it retain its tree shape. 

This article will answer all your questions about Wisteria trees and teach you how to train your own vine to grow as a tree. I’ll provide you with step-by-step instructions to get your Wisteria tree started, and I’ll discuss some tips for caring for your new tree in the future.  

Is Wisteria a Tree?

Wisteria is a deciduous flowering vine; it is not a tree. This woody, twining climber is actually in the legume family. However, Wisteria can be trained to grow so that it has the appearance of a tree. 

Unlike “real” trees, Wisteria doesn’t naturally grow from a trunk, and it doesn’t develop a canopy of limbs and leaves. This vine will climb anything it can grab. Also, unlike a tree, Wisteria doesn’t stop growing. Ever. There’s no “mature height” that it will reach and then stop growing. 

Because of this vigorous growth, Wisteria will need constant grooming to keep it under control. Even if Wisteria looks like a tree, remember that it’s still a vine, and it will require some consistent work and dedication to maintain.

Can You Buy a Wisteria Tree? 

Some nurseries do sell what they call Wisteria trees. However, these are Wisteria vines that are prepared to be trained as a tree. If you order these from an online nursery, you will typically receive a young Wisteria with the side shoots cut off, leaving just growth at the top of the vine. It will be shipped with a small stake holding the plant in the upright position. 

You can choose to purchase one of these plants, and it may make your training process easier since the vine will already be vertical. However, the ongoing process to train your Wisteria will be the same as if you purchased a typical Wisteria plant. Eventually, you will need a larger, more substantial support stake to hold the Wisteria trunk upright as the plant continues to grow and mature.

Can Wisteria Be Trained Into a Tree?

Wisteria can be trained into a tree. If you like the look of the vines twisted into a trunk-like-form with the foliage at the top, then a Wisteria tree may be an excellent option for you. This is also known as a “standard” Wisteria. 

As a side note – a standard is a name for any plant typically grown as a vine or shrub (not a tree) that’s pruned and trained to grow as a free-standing, single-stemmed tree. 

While you can train your Wisteria to grow to look like a tree, you should avoid allowing your vine to climb an actual tree. While it may be tempting to use a tree trunk as a natural support, the Wisteria will likely overtake and eventually cause damage to the tree as it continues to grow larger, heavier, and climb higher. 

If you want to train your Wisteria to grow into a smaller tree, you can even grow it in a pot or container. For more information on keeping your Wisteria in a container, read this article.

If you decide to train your Wisteria as a tree, the result can be stunning. However, you will need to help your plant achieve the final look that you’re hoping for. Wisteria won’t naturally stand up on its own; it will require a substantial support stake or another mechanism to hold it up while it grows and matures.

What Type of Wisteria is Best to Train as a Tree?

You can really train any type of Wisteria to grow as a tree. However, some varieties are better suited for smaller spaces and will do well being tamed into a standard form. American Wisteria is an excellent choice for a tree, along with a few select Japanese or Chinese cultivars.  

Wisterias that grow shorter flower clusters are better suited for training as trees. American Wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) is an excellent option because it’s slightly less aggressive than its Asian counterparts. The Amethyst Falls variety is a popular choice for its lightly fragranced lavender blossoms and because it tends to bloom faster than other varieties. Amethyst Falls is what I planted in my yard, and I’ve been extremely pleased with its growth and look so far. 

Another American option is “Blue Moon,” which is a Kentucky Wisteria. This one produces flowers that are more blue than purple, and like Amethyst Falls, it’s much easier to control and isn’t invasive like the Chinese or Japanese species. 

Aside from being less maintenance, a less aggressive variety typically grows slower and can build stronger stems which will eventually become a stronger, thicker trunk than those varieties which grow the fastest. 

If you choose to go with a Japanese Wisteria (Wisteria floribunda), the “Domino” cultivar is an ideal candidate to train as a standard. The “Lavender Falls” variety is also a popular choice for training as a tree.  

Most of the silky Wisterias are also good choices for training as a tree. These types come in a pretty wide variety of colors, so you’ll be more apt to find something that suits your home or garden with just the look you’re hoping for. 

Of course, your desired end result will help determine which Wisteria is ultimately the best choice. If you’re planning to train your Wisteria as a tree in a container, you could consider the Japanese Wisteria “Macrobotrys.” This variety produces longer bloom clusters than some of the others, but if you plant it in a container, you can place it somewhere as a showpiece. 

For something a little different, there is a pink Japanese Wisteria known as “Rosea,” which produces romantic pale pink blooms in the late spring or early summer. 

To train your Wisteria as a standard in your garden, you should consider the “Lavender Lace” Wisteria, which is a hybrid between Wisteria floribunda and Wisteria sinensis.

The silky Wisteria variety “Okayama” produces blooms that are just the right length (4-6 inches) and have a beautiful lilac coloration with a white spot in the center. Or I also love the “Shiro-Kapitan,” which blooms beautiful white flowers in the late spring or early summer. The amount of dense foliage on this Wisteria makes it an ideal candidate for training it as a tree.  

Some nurseries may sell Wisteria that’s already in the process of being trained into a tree form. This is a convenient way to go if you don’t have a preference about the exact type of Wisteria you’re going to plant, and you want something ready to put in the ground.

How to Train Wisteria Into a Tree

Once you’ve selected your Wisteria plant, you’re ready to start training the vine to grow as a standard. Remember, this process will take time, attention, and patience. You’ll also need to keep up with maintaining your Wisteria all year long. However, if you have the desire and put forth the effort, you’ll be delighted with the results, and your hard work will undoubtedly pay off each spring.

Gather Your Supplies

Whether you’re planting a brand new Wisteria or trying to train an existing young plant to grow as a tree, you’ll need a few supplies to ensure your project’s success. 

You will need: 

Step 1 – Install Your Support

Either before or after your Wisteria is planted, install your post into the ground directly behind the vine. Dig a hole at least 12-18 inches into the ground for the post, leaving four or five feet above the ground for your Wisteria. 

The base of your Wisteria vine should be just a few inches in front of the post-close enough to tie the vine to the post but far enough away for it to have room to grow. Three to six inches away should be sufficient. 

If your Wisteria is already planted, take care not to damage the root ball when installing the post. When the post is installed, it should be at least a foot taller than where you want your Wisteria trunk to end and the tree canopy to begin.

Step 2 – Find and Prepare Your Trunk

If your Wisteria has more than one vine, select the most vigorous one (the vine that looks like the “main” stem) to become the trunk. My Wisteria had two vines, so I left both of them to twine up the post and twist around one another. 

Use your pruners to cut away any side shoots growing from the main stem, taking care not to damage the main stem itself. You also may need to leave a couple of shoots if there are no leaves at the top of your vines. Remember, your Wisteria needs leaves to grow, so you don’t want to cut all of them away.

Step 3 – Secure Your Trunk

Use your soft ties to secure the main stem in an upright position against the post. Starting near the base, tie a loose knot around the post and the vine, making it just tight enough to hold the stem upright but loose enough so the vine will be able to grow freely. There should still be some room for movement.

Continue to place ties every eight or so inches until you reach the top of the vine. As your Wisteria continues to grow, you will need to keep adding ties until it reaches your desired height. You should also periodically check your existing ties to make sure that they’re still in a good position and not too tight.

Step 4 – Let It Grow 

As your Wisteria continues to grow and you add and adjust your ties, you’ll also need to watch for side shoots and any new shoots from the base. Use your pruners to trim these away so that your Wisteria maintains its tree trunk appearance. 

Once your vine reaches the height you want for the trunk (or it’s a foot or so taller than your post), it’s time to create the canopy. Begin by pinching off the top of the stem in an area just above a growth bud. This will encourage the vine to produce side shoots that will eventually grow outward to become your Wisteria tree’s canopy.

Step 5 – Continue to Prune and Shape Your Wisteria 

After you pinch off the top of your Wisteria vine, it won’t continue to grow taller. Instead, it will grow outward with the development of lateral branches. From here, you’ll need to continue to maintain and develop the tree’s shape through pruning. 

Once your lateral branches have about six leaves on them, prune the shoot just above the sixth leaf. This will encourage additional new shoots and more foliage for your tree’s canopy and branches. Keep watching for any side shoots along the trunk and prune them away, as well as any basal shoots. 

Come winter, when your Wisteria is dormant, you’ll want to prune away any dead branches or those that are too crowded. This is when you’ll do a good “clean up” of your tree. 

After the next year’s growing season, prune back your lateral shoots to about 12 inches to encourage additional growth and possible blooms. However, you shouldn’t expect blooms for a few years because Wisteria won’t flower until it’s past its juvenile stage.

Caring for Your Wisteria Tree in the Future

Over the years, your Wisteria tree should continue to grow thicker and lusher. Your trunk stems will get thicker and stronger, and your lateral branches will continue to fill in, forming a beautiful canopy. 

One of the most appealing things about Wisteria is that it doesn’t need much from you to keep growing. Make sure it gets enough water (if you’re getting less than an inch of rain each week, you need to water your Wisteria) and plenty of sunshine (a full six hours each day). 

You shouldn’t need to fertilize your Wisteria, but if you do, be sure to use something that’s low in nitrogen. Too much nitrogen in the soil can actually prevent blooms in the future. 

The biggest thing you need to do to care for your Wisteria tree in the future is to continue pruning it correctly. Cut away any shoots from your trunk and follow the pruning schedule for winter and summer. To learn more about how, when, where, and why to prune your Wisteria, check out this article.

Eventually, your Wisteria tree may be strong enough to support its own weight. In that case, you may be able to remove the support. However, it’s not necessary to do so, and in many cases, you won’t be able to see the post, anyway.

Final Thoughts

Some people shy away from a Wisteria plant because they don’t have a big pergola or arbor to grow it on. I always loved the way they looked, but I didn’t think I had anywhere for it to climb. Training your Wisteria as a tree is the perfect way to enjoy this whimsical plant without needing a big, strong structure to hold the vine’s mature weight. 

Growing a standard Wisteria is perfect for smaller yards or gardens or for anyone worried about having to keep a giant Wisteria under control. The best part is that you won’t need a 10-foot ladder to prune your Wisteria when your tree is mature!

With the right preparation and attention, you can easily train your Wisteria to grow into a mystical-looking tree that will thrill you and your neighbors for years to come. When this stunning vine is in bloom, you’ll get all the joy of climbing Wisteria in a contained form. It’s guaranteed to be a conversation piece in your garden each spring.

How to Grow Wisteria | Garden Design

A gardener’s guide to planting & caring for a wisteria vine By Anne Balogh

Brimming with clusters of fragrant flowers in spring, the showstopping wisteria vine is loved by many gardeners despite its assertive reputation. An extremely vigorous grower, this perennial can get out of hand easily unless carefully restrained. Here are some tips for cultivating all wisteria has to offer while taming its aggressive growth habits.

To see other flowering vine options, check out our list of 21 Flowering Vines.

TRAINING WISTERIA: TRELLISES, PERGOLAS & OTHER SUPPORT STRUCTURES

Wisteria requires a sturdy support structure, such as this well-built pergola.

With its climbing agility and fast growth habits, wisteria can completely transform a garden in just a few years, becoming a breathtaking shade cover, privacy screen, or focal point. Wisteria has the greatest impact when trained to grow on pergolas, arbors, and other strong overhanging supports so the long flower clusters can hang freely, creating a stunning floral canopy. In Japan, wisteria is even trained onto massive trellises to form blooming tunnels in spring. You can also train wisteria onto wires mounted on fences or stone walls or drape them over garden benches or arched entryways.

Although you may be tempted to let wisteria twine around the trunk of a tree, its vice-like grip will eventually strangle it. To achieve a similar effect, you can train wisteria as a single-trunk, free-standing tree by staking the thick woody stem of the plant to a sturdy post or 4-by-4 embedded securely in the ground. As the plant grows, remove all unwanted growth along the trunk, allowing only the top to grow. Using the same techniques on a smaller scale, wisteria can be grown in large pots or as a bonsai tree.

Whatever trellising method you use, make sure the system is sturdy. Wisterias will readily topple weak wooden trellises, so use durable materials such as heavy metal pipe set in concrete or pressure-treated or rot-resistant wood beams. Also avoid growing the vines alongside your house, because they can creep under siding and wrap around gutters.

Keep in mind that once wisteria becomes well-established, it can be very difficult if not impossible to move later. Choose your planting location and design intent carefully, because you may not be able to change your mind later.

HOW TO GET YOUR WISTERIA TO BLOOM

Be patient, a newly planted wisteria may take several years to mature before it begins flowering.

Gardeners are often devastated when their wisteria fails to bloom the first season after planting. With young plants, be patient. Wisteria takes several years to mature and become established before it begins flowering with gusto. However, a lack of flowering can also be attributed to other factors, such as too much fertilizer, improper pruning, injury to the flower buds by frost exposure, or too much shade. Here are some tips from Toronto Master Gardeners for guaranteeing a profusion of blooms:

Here are some of the most popular wisteria cultivars:

Swipe to view slides

Photo by: Müller/ McPhoto / Alamy Stock Photo.

Wisteria floribunda ‘Rosea'

Soft pink 13- to 16-inch flower clusters tinged with lavender. Grows more slowly than other cultivars (2 to 3 feet per year), making it a good choice for smaller gardens.

Zones: 5-9

Photo by: Garden World Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.

Wisteria floribunda ‘Snow Showers’

Pure white, pea-like flowers give the impression of snow falling in springtime. Very fragrant.

Zones: 5-9

Photo by: nnattalli / Shutterstock.

Wisteria floribunda 'Longissima Alba'

Very fragrant white wisteria with dense flower clusters up to 20 inches long.

Zones: 4-9

Photo by: Tim Gainey / Alamy Stock Photo.

Wisteria floribunda 'Royal Purple'

Very fragrant white wisteria with dense flower clusters up to 20 inches long.

Zones: 4-9

Photo by: Garden World Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.

Wisteria floribunda 'Violacea Plena'

Showy blue-violet double flowers that fade to pale lavender.

Zones: 5-9

Photo by: InfoFlowersPlants / Shutterstock.

Wisteria sinensis 'Alba'

Short clusters of fragrant, pure white, pea-like flowers.

Zones: 5-8

Photo by: Wiert Nieuman / Alamy Stock Photo.

Wisteria sinensis 'Prolific'

Noted for its prolific clusters of lilac-blue flowers. Typically begins blooming at an earlier age than other cultivars.

Zones: 5-8

Photo by: Garden World Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.

Wisteria frutescens 'Amethyst Falls'

Blooms at an early age, often its first season, with lightly fragrant lilac-blue flowers. Blooms also arrive about two weeks later than other varieties, so the buds are rarely affected by a late frost.

Zones: 5-9

Photo by: Carl Boro / Millette Photomedia.

Wisteria frutescens 'Longwood Purple'

This American wisteria flowers later than Asian varieties, but can repeat bloom through September. Offers a remarkable display of grape-like flower clusters.

Zones: 5-9

Photo by: Jennifer Martin-Atkins / Millette Photomedia.

Wisteria macrostachya 'Aunt Dee'

Abundant 8- to 12-inch-long clusters of fragrant lilac-blue flowers on new growth. Blooms at an early age.

Zones: 4-9

Photo by: blickwinkel / Alamy Stock Photo.

Wisteria macrostachya ‘Blue Moon'

Produces foot-long clusters of lavender-blue flowers in spring, with repeat blooming throughout the growing season once established.

Zones: 3-9

Photo by: Paul S Drobot / Millette Photomedia.

Wisteria macrostachya 'Clara Mack'

A pure white flowering form of Kentucky wisteria with dark green foliage.

Zones: 3-9

Not pictured:

Wisteria floribunda 'Lawrence'
Pale violet-blue flowers. The 12- to-18-inch clusters are loaded with as many as 160 blooms, more than all other Japanese wisteria.
Zones: 5-9

Wisteria frutescens 'Nivea'
Densely packed white flower clusters only 6 inches long, creating a pinecone-like shape.
Zones: 5-9

WHERE TO BUY WISTERIA

American Meadows
Brushwood Nursery
Digging Dog Nursery
Fast Growing Trees Nursery
Monrovia
Nature Hills Nursery
Spring Hill Nurseries
Thompson & Morgan
Wayside Gardens
Wilson Bros Gardens

WISTERIA Q&A

How large can wisteria get?

Wisteria vines can grow to epic proportions, spreading 100 feet or more under ideal growing conditions. The world’s largest known wisteria, located in Sierra Madre, Calif., was planted in 1894 and covers more than one acre.

Why does wisteria make loud popping noises?

Wisteria is a member of the pea family (Fabaceae), and similar to sweet pea vines, it produces long (but poisonous) seedpods after the flowers fade. When the pods ripen and turn brown, they explode with enough force to eject the seeds far away from the parent plant. This is Mother Nature’s way of preventing the overcrowding of seedlings, so they can germinate and grow without competition.

How long will wisteria live?

Planting wisteria is a long-term commitment. If you put a plant in the ground now, it may still be blooming and growing a century later if left undisturbed. One of the oldest wisteria vines, located in Japan’s Ashikaga Flower Park, dates back to 1870.

READER QUESTIONS

Q: I love wisteria but am having a hard time with it here in Minnesota. It’s not making much progress up my wooden arbor. - James A. Reider, White Bear Lake, Minn.

A: Your wisteria is root-hardy, but all the top growth it puts on each year is killed by severe winter temperatures. No wonder it’s not getting anywhere on your arbor. The two most common wisterias are W. sinensis and W. floribunda; the latter is a bit hardier. Its flower clusters are longer and more fragrant, but if your plant has never flowered, the best way to tell which one you have is the manner in which it twines: clockwise for W. floribunda, counterclockwise for W. sinensis. If you find you are growing the less hardy species, you might give W. floribunda a whirl, or even better yet, the native W. macrostachya. You might also consider wrapping the new growth in burlap for a little extra protection. If swaddling it is out of the question, you may have to settle on another vine. Incidentally, I hope your arbor is made of strong, thick timber: wisteria’s anacondalike stems have brought down many a finely wrought Victorian porch and gazebo.     

Americans seem to have a strong distrust of vines; we grow them much less than other garden plants. It probably comes from a Freudian hang-up about lush, twining, probing shoots and tendrils or, more likely, our fear of the self-important, strangling imported thugs we see taking over in nature - porcelain berry, Hall’s honeysuckle, and kudzu. I’d like to see increased use of vines and more imaginative ways of growing them. Why not plant different vines at the base of your arbor and let them fight it out? You’ll have more interesting foliage shapes and textures and more flowers over a longer period of time. And, should some prove not as hardy or as vigorous as others, you won’t be left with a bare arbor. Why not be Darwinian and let the tough Minnesota winters weed out the weaklings?      

Try trumpet creeper — the plain red species (Campsis radicans), not the named varieties that are less hardy — for its deep-green foliage and wonderful junglelike red flowers in late summer. It’s vigorous and can climb up a wooden arbor unassisted. Native Dutchman’s pipe (Aristolochia macrophylla) is a gamble in hardiness, but give it a try. It’s rambunctious and casts a deep shade with its large, tropical-looking leaves. A hardy, fast-growing native whose foliage turns scarlet in the fall is Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia).

RELATED:
20 Fragrant Flowering Plants

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