Why do my hydrangeas not bloom

When cutting large-leaved hydrangea flowers, the stems must be cut very modestly so as not to remove many new buds. Take similar care when removing wilted flowers.

In the summer it is recommended to tweeze to encourage the shrub to grow. This procedure should not be performed later than mid-August, as it may interfere with bud formation.

Pruning for flowering for paniculate and tree hydrangeas is done in the fall, shortening the shoots to two or three pairs of formed buds, then the shrub will give many luxuriantly flowering shoots next year.

Remember that hydrangeas require good sun exposure. The lack of flowering may be the result of excessive thickening of the crown of the bush. Every year, remove old four- and five-year-old branches so that flower buds have access to light. For hydrangeas that bloom on the shoots of the current year, only young branches that need to be preserved are valuable.

3. Nutrient deficiencies

Lack of flowers is often the result of negligent fertilizer application. Even an insignificant deviation from the correct dosage and non-observance of the feeding time can upset the delicate balance of the mineralogical composition of the soil.

Every spring, flower growers fertilize the hydrangea bushes abundantly, scattering crushed compost and other organic matter under them. In spring and summer, multi-component mineral fertilizers for flowering plants are sprinkled with a generous hand. At the same time, they do not take into account that the excessive content of some elements makes it difficult to assimilate others.

Hydrangeas are susceptible to leaf chlorosis caused by too much calcium in the substrate. This interferes with iron and nitrogen uptake, resulting in leaf discoloration and poor or no flowering. The soil must be acidified with crushed bark, peat or ammonium sulfate, only then all the nutrients necessary for hydrangeas will be absorbed.

4. Weak greenhouse seedlings

In early spring, containerized hydrangea seedlings with large, already blooming clusters of inflorescences are sold in the markets. Do not buy already flowering hydrangea shrubs for planting in the garden in the spring. These are greenhouse grown plants that have undergone a forcing process (flowering at unusual times). They are not hardened and not accustomed to natural conditions.

If, nevertheless, the plant was purchased or received as a gift, it would be better for it to spend the winter in a dark cellar, at a temperature of +5 °C.

5. Diseased Hydrangea bush

Hydrangeas that are grown on waterlogged soils (near water bodies) or are too dense are often prone to fungal diseases. Hydrangeas can be affected by powdery mildew or leaf spot, suffer from gray rot.

As a result of infection with a fungal disease, the plant weakens, its growth is inhibited and, as a result, flowering is weakened. That is why it is so important to provide proper conditions for growing hydrangeas, as well as to carry out early and correct diagnosis of fungal diseases, apply appropriate fungicides for treatment.

Prophylactically, to prevent diseases, plants can be sprayed with biostimulants for growth and flowering.

6. The root system is poorly developed

Young hydrangea plants take time to develop strong roots. Don't lose patience when growing your seedlings, but rather, help the plants develop by creating the right conditions.

Closer to autumn, it is advisable to use special autumn fertilizers that promote the development of the root system, strengthen the roots of the plant, and prepare them for winter.

Read more about the care of hydrangeas in the article Hydrangea: main types, planting and care.

7. Under-watering

Timely watering is equally important before and after flowering, because garden hydrangeas do not respond well to lack of water. But hydrangeas are especially sensitive to lack of water when they bloom. Intensive watering should be carried out not only in the spring after planting, but also in the summer to prevent these very decorative flowers from drying out. The lack of moisture will adversely affect the appearance of both flowers and leaves.

Mulch is recommended around bushes to retain moisture. Too long a hydrangea in the heat without proper watering can kill the plant or, at best, the bush will not bloom for several seasons until it is fully restored.

8. Hydrangea is suppressed by neighboring plants

Another reason for insufficient flowering can be the wrong location of the plant, that is, planting it in an overgrown and shaded part of the garden. If a young hydrangea is not growing or blooming, thin out the surrounding trees and shrubs to give the hydrangea more room.

Sometimes the place for some reason is not suitable for the plant, despite the conditions created. It is enough to transplant a capricious bush to another part of the garden and next year it will show itself in all its glory.

Hydrangeas are considered to be queens of the semi-shady corners of the garden. But some species and varieties feel great in a place open to the sun. True, they will have to be watered much more often in sunny areas.

Why hydrangea does not bloom, how to find the reasons and fix it

Hydrangea is a plant that is planted in gardens and parks because of their beautiful flowers. Multi-colored sweet-smelling clusters adorn any landscape. And what a disappointment the gardener feels when, for some reason, flowers did not appear on the bushes, in which so much effort and money was invested. Unfortunately, such cases are not rare. But you can fight this phenomenon, you just need to first find out the cause.

Why hydrangea does not bloom

Hydrangea will not bloom if the plant is:

• poorly fertilized;
• suffers from excess or lack of moisture;
• did not adapt well after landing in a new location;
• frozen in winter;
• injured while cutting;
• planted in a shaded area;
• affected by pests or diseases.

Also, unsuitable soil and hydrangea varieties that are incorrectly selected for climatic conditions do not contribute to the formation of flower buds.

The main reasons for the lack of flowers in all flowering crops do not have a fundamental difference, but still there are slight differences in different types of hydrangea. They may depend on age, plant variety and other factors.

Paniculata

Hydrangea paniculata is born for life in hot southern climates. This is the only variety that will bloom in direct sunlight throughout the daylight hours (subject to sufficient watering). But if you grow it in temperate latitudes, it may refuse to bloom, because it will simply freeze at non-critical temperatures.

Arborescent

Hydrangea arborescens is the most common variety and the hardiest. But she needs a lot of moisture. Insufficient watering will cause the lack of flowers.

Large-leaved

Flower buds of Hydrangea large-leaved are laid in autumn on the tops of last year's shoots. One of the mistakes is the wrong organization of the shelter. Covered too late or opened too early, the bush is exposed to frost and the buds freeze slightly. Frozen buds will not bloom. And if before the season or at the end of it, with improper pruning, remove the tips of one-year-old shoots, then there will be nothing to bloom.

How to achieve gorgeous flowering of large-leaved hydrangea: video

In the second, third year

In most cases, the young plant does not bloom. Therefore, the "young growth" is not pruned until the first flowering (unless, if necessary, the shoots are sick, broken off, etc.). A perennial that produces flowers in its third year may not flower if the plant has a root problem or the soil is not suitable. And there are individual varieties that bloom quite late - some even in the sixth year (for panicled hydrangea).

The main reasons and their correction, why hydrangea does not bloom, but only leaves grow

1. Vegetative green mass will grow intensively when too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied to the soil, and there is not enough phosphorus and potassium. As a result, young shoots will form in large numbers, and the hydrangea will no longer have enough strength to bloom. If the buds are formed, they will freeze and dry out without opening. Especially harmful is the introduction of a large amount of nitrogenous top dressing during the formation of peduncles. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied in the summer, during the flowering period. This will provide good large inflorescences with brightly colored petals. August is the time for phosphorus top dressing. They will help hydrangeas to enter the winter well and keep flower buds for the next year.
2. There will be no flowers if the bush is not cut, but shredded, removing one-year-old tops. On last year's shoot, flower buds are formed. Too strong pruning does not contribute to flowering, failure to comply with the timing of this procedure - too late in spring or too early in autumn (after the start of sap flow or before the end of this process). During autumn pruning, you need to remove shrunken branches, shoots growing inside the bush (they are absolutely useless), areas with visible damage due to injury or disease. Such pruning is sanitizing, it helps hydrangeas enter the winter with the least losses in good condition. In the spring, anti-aging pruning is carried out, which prepares the bush for the season.
3. An unfavorable place for planting hydrangeas is both poor soil and especially improper lighting. The correct lighting for this bush is the sun's rays until noon, and then the shade. The scorching sun leads to the death of not only flowers, but also leaves - they will droop and fade. And with strong shading, the plant will not have enough strength to bloom. On heavy clay soil there is a risk of stagnant water. To prevent this from happening, grooves are made around the bush, pine bark is buried in the ground.
4. When planting a seedling in a new place, the root system could be damaged. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to do transshipment with a full earthen clod. You can clean the ground if there are suspicions of pests in the soil and root system, or, if necessary, remove some of the roots (in case of illness or damage).
5. Adaptation problems - when the bush gets used to a new place of residence for a long time. Here you just need to wait and patiently look after the hydrangea, try to create optimal growth conditions for it. There is a possibility that the seller fed the hydrangea with growth stimulants to give it a marketable appearance. If this is so, then once in natural conditions, she will not be able to feed herself with substances from the soil. It will be necessary to feed the bush, gradually bringing the amount of dressing to normal.
6. Hydrangea is not only moisture-loving, but also thermophilic. Therefore, the plant must be carefully covered for the winter. If the tops of shoots with flowering buds freeze, the bush will miss one season and throw out flower buds the next year. Proper shelter is timely: you need to start in mid-September. In regions with little snow and early winter, hydrangea is generally at risk.
7. It is necessary to determine the acidity of the soil. If it is insufficient, needles and sawdust are introduced. Soil quality is improved by such applications as instant coffee (it is scattered in the root area) and soaked rye bread, fermented milk products (it is better not to use yogurts, kefir without additives and plain sour milk are useful).
8. Damage caused by pests and diseases leads to wilting of buds. It is necessary to determine the disease or pest, treat the bush with a pesticide. But it doesn't always help. Ring spot is a viral disease of hydrangea for which there is no cure. If the bush is sick, the plant is dug up and burned. Some diseases are caused by inconsistencies in the soil or water - for example, chlorosis affects the leaves and prevents the formation of buds. The cause of the disease is iron deficiency. A disease occurs when watering hydrangeas with unsettled tap water.
9. An incorrectly selected plant variety does not match the climatic conditions of your region. This is especially true in cool latitudes, where people buy hydrangeas, tempted by advertising of "frost-resistant varieties." Breeders, of course, have contributed to the development of new species - but not so much. No, the bush, of course, will not die, because you will still insulate it for the winter, and it will be very green and beautiful in the summer. But there will be no flowers. Everything is very simple: in the conditions of a short summer, no matter how hard you try and no matter what you feed the hydrangea, it simply will not have time to lay flower buds next season.

Flowering problems

Why the flowers are small

A common cause is an imbalance of nutrients in the soil. Overfeeding with nitrogen will cause the plant to throw out new wild shoots. They will not have time to stiffen before the onset of cold weather and freeze. As a result, either small inflorescences, or the absence of flowers.

Why the flowers don't fully bloom

The reason is the same - excess nitrogen, lack of nutrients in the soil, poor lighting, underwatering or jamming of the roots.

Proper care of hydrangeas for lush blooms

Initially planted in a place where the sun will only be in the morning. You should not plant trees nearby that will overtake the hydrangea in growth and block its access to sunlight with its crown.

It is necessary to follow the feeding schedule for hydrangeas. Everything is very simple, nutrients are introduced in three stages.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied:

• before the start of the growing season;
• before the peduncles mature, so that the appearance of new greenery does not prevent the hydrangea from blooming.

All this takes a period at the end of May-beginning of June.

June-July - the time for the introduction of phosphorus and potassium, they contribute to good flowering.

End of August - only phosphorus is applied to preserve flower buds on shoots.

Irrigation is our everything: not without reason in Latin Hydrangea is called Hydrangea, which means “moisture-loving”. Watering Rules:

1. Watch the weather: if it's cool outside, water once a week, if it's hot, twice a week.
2. Young hydrangeas (up to 3 years of age) should be watered more often, up to daily soil moisture in dry hot weather.
3. Take into account the nature of the soil: if the soil is heavy (clay or loam) - water less often, if light (sand, sandy loam) - more often, and more water is required for this.
4. Only soft water is needed for irrigation:

• rain;
• filtered;
• drummed and settled.

You can collect both tap and well water, it must settle for at least 5 days.

5. One hydrangea bush needs a bucket of water (one and a half for a large plant).

Pruning is carried out carefully, without touching the flower buds. In addition to proper pruning of shoots, you need to rid the plant of flowers. The rules are simple:

1. First-year flowers must be removed at the bud stage: when the hydrangea grows for the first year, all efforts should be directed to rooting and growth. Flowering takes a lot of energy.
2. In the second year and beyond, trim panicles that have died and faded.
3. Inflorescences are removed when not completely faded, but after flowering has begun. This is necessary so that new shoots appear on the branches before the onset of frost.

In order for the hydrangea to overwinter well, in dry weather in September we bend the branches of the bush to the ground and attach them with braces (you can put stones or coniferous branches under very hard stiff ones, otherwise they may break during fixation to the ground). On top we place a covering material (not polyethylene!), Which will provide good ventilation and sprinkle it with earth or peat (up to 20 cm).

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