Where to plant hydrangea bushes
Hydrangeas: How to Plant and Care for Hydrangea Shrubs
With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm. Our Hydrangea Growing Guide provides information on how to plant and care for these flowering shrubs. Plus, find answers to common questions, such as why your hydrangeas aren’t blooming this year.
About Hydrangeas
Unrivaled in the shrub world for their beautiful flowers, these elegant plants are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any type of soil, and produce abundant blooms. Colors beguile with clear blue, vibrant pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!
Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites, from group plantings to shrub borders to containers. Varieties abound (every year, it seems, breeders present us with more options!), and gardeners’ expectations of bloom size and color are boundless. To know how your hydrangea will grow, pay attention to the species, defined below, as some require different care. When you know what to expect, delights will be magnified.
Enjoy this ode to the beautiful of hydrangeas and learn how to grow hydrangeas in our guide below.
Planting
Where to Plant Hydrangeas
- Most hydrangeas will thrive in fertile, well-draining soils that receive plenty of moisture. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
- Generally, hydrangeas prefer partial sun. Ideally, they will be given full sun in the morning, followed by some afternoon shade to protect from the hot midday sun. This is especially true for the Bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla), whose large leaves are prone to wilting. Some varieties are more tolerant of full sun.
- Space hydrangeas anywhere from 3 to 10 feet apart, depending on type. Always space plants based on their expected size at maturity!
When to Plant Hydrangeas
- Autumn is the best time to plant hydrangeas, followed by spring planting.
The idea is to give this shrub plenty of time to establish a healthy root system before the heat of summer or the extreme chill of winter, which makes the cooler shoulder seasons the best times to plant. - Plant the shrubs in early morning or late afternoon. It’s generally cooler and the plant is less likely to suffer heat stress from direct sunlight.
How to Plant Hydrangeas
- Gently remove the hydrangea from its container and inspect the root ball, snipping off any dead or rotting parts and teasing free the roots if the plant is especially root bound.
- Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide. The base of the plant (where the stem meets the soil) should be level with the top of the planting hole.
- Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water generously. After the water is absorbed, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
- Water thoroughly once again.
How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings
Hydrangeas can easily be grown from cuttings.
They root readily and the process makes for a great lesson in propagation. Here’s how to do it:
- On a well-established hydrangea, find a branch that is new growth and that has not flowered. New growth will appear lighter in color than old growth, and the stem will not be as rigid.
- From the tip of the branch, move 4 to 5 inches down and make a horizontal cut. Make sure that there are at least 3 to 4 pairs of leaves on your cutting.
- Remove the lowest pair of leaves from the cutting, trimming them flush to the stem. Roots grow more easily from these leaf nodes, so if you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Be sure to keep at least 2 pairs of leaves at the tip end of the cutting, though.
- If the remaining leaves are quite large, cut them in half, removing the tip-half. This prevents the leaves from hitting the sides of the plastic bag you will place over the cutting later on (to keep the humidity up).
- (Optional) Dust the leafless part of the stem with rooting hormone and an anti-fungal powder for plants (both available at a local hardware or garden store).
This will encourage rooting and discourage rotting. - Prepare a small pot and fill it with moistened potting mix. Plant the cutting in the soil, sinking it down to the first pair of remaining leaves. Water lightly to get rid of any air gaps around the stem.
- Cover the entire pot loosely with a plastic bag. Make sure the bag isn’t touching the leaves of the cutting, otherwise the leaves can rot. (Chopsticks or something similar can be used to prop up the bag and keep it off the leaves.)
- Place the pot in a warm area that’s sheltered from direct sunlight and wind.
- Check on your cutting every few days to make sure that it isn’t rotting and only water again once the top layer of soil is dry. With luck, the cutting should root in a few weeks! (Check by gently pulling on the cutting; if you feel resistance, roots have formed.)
Growing
Hydrangea Care
Watering
- For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water.
- Water at a rate of 1 inch per week throughout the growing season. It’s better to deeply water 3 times a week than sprinkle water in a shallow manner. This encourages root growth.
- Bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas require more water, but all varieties benefit from consistent moisture.
- Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry, and flowering will be hampered by a lack of water.
- Use a soaker hose to water deeply and keep moisture off the flowers and leaves.
- It’s best to water in the morning to prepare hydrangeas for the the heat of the day and to avoid disease.
- Add organic mulch underneath your hydrangeas to help keep the soil moist and cool, add nutrients over time, and improve soil texture.
Fertilizing
If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. The best way to determine your fertility needs is by using a soil test.
Apply fertilizer based on your specific hydrangeas.
Each variety has different needs and will benefit from different application timing.
- Bigleaf hydrangeas can benefit from several light fertilizer applications in March, May, and June.
- Oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas do best with two applications in April and June.
- Smooth hydrangea plants only need fertilization once, in late winter.
Winter Protection
- In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they tend to mat when wet and can suffocate the plant.)
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of our readers’ questions involve pruning hydrangeas. And no wonder—it’s confusing, and all depends on the variety of hydrangea. Luckily, as long as you know which type you’ve got, it’s easy to figure out what sort of pruning technique to employ.
Learn the essentials below, then read more about how to prune hydrangea varieties here.
| Hydrangea Type | When to Prune | Where Flowers Appear |
|---|---|---|
| Bigleaf (H. macrophylla) | Summer, after flowering | On old growth |
| Oakleaf (H. quercifolia) | Summer, after flowering | On old growth |
| Panicle (H. paniculata) | Late winter, before spring growth | On new growth |
| Smooth (H. arborescens) | Late winter, before spring growth | On new growth |
| Mountain (H. serrata) | Summer, after flowering | On old growth |
| Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) | Summer, after flowering | On old growth |
Pruning Common Hydrangeas
The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, Hydrangea macrophylla.
(See more below.)
Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) are pruned AFTER the flowers fade in the summer. These varieties bloom on the previous season’s stems (“old wood”).
- Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
- Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
- To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
- If the plant is old, neglected, or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also rejuvenate the plant for future years.
- It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big Mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds).
It’s fine to deadhead the Lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head. - When growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) varieties in Zones 4 and 5, do not prune unless absolutely necessary, and then do so immediately after blooming. Otherwise, remove only dead stem in the spring.
Pruning Other Hydrangeas
Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas are pruned BEFORE flower buds are formed. These varieties bloom on the current season’s stems (“new wood”).
- Prune in the late winter when the plant is dormant. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, the plant will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
- In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
Read more about how to prune hydrangea types.
How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers
It is possible to change the flowers’ colors, but not instantly. Color correction takes weeks—even months. Wait until the plant is at least 2 years old to give it time to recover from the shock of its original planting. Also note that it’s easier to change blue flowers to pink than pink to blue.
It’s not every hydrangea that changes color. The color of some Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)—especially Mophead and Lacecap types—and H. serrata cultivars change color based on the soil pH.
Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 6.0 produce pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.
See How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers for more information.
Recommended Varieties
For a more detailed overview of the many types of hydrangeas, check out Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.
There are two main groups of hydrangeas:
Group 1: Plants that Bloom on New Growth (This Year’s Stems)
The following hydrangeas, which form their buds in early summer on new growth, will flower reliably each year, requiring no special care.
- Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata)
- ‘Grandiflora’ is a big, old-fashioned, floppy variety, ‘Tardiva’, ‘White Moth’, and ‘Pee Wee’ fit the scale of small gardens. ‘Limelight’ produces cool-green flowers and grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet.
- Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens)
- Look for the cultivars H. arborescens ‘Grandiflora’ and ‘Annabelle’, which produce many large (up to 14 inches across), tight, symmetrical blooms in late summer.
Image: Lacecap hydrangea
Group 2: Plants that Bloom on Old Growth (Last Year’s Stems)
If you live in Zone 8 or warmer, choose plants from this group. Gardeners in cool climate zones will find many of them a challenge, because they set flower buds in the fall. Although hardy to Zones 4 and 5, the buds are prone to damage by an early frost in fall, a late frost in spring, or excessively cold temperatures when dormant in winter.
This, along with untimely pruning, can result in inconsistent flowering or no flowering at all.
- Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)
- You can expect exceptional fall color from ‘Snow Queen’, ‘Snow Flake’, and ‘Alice’.
- Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)
- We love ‘All Summer Beauty’ (Mophead), which has profuse, dark blue flowers—turning more pink in soils with near neutral pH. If its buds are winter-killed, the plant will form new ones in spring and still bloom.
- ‘Nikko Blue’ (Mophead) is vigorous, with large, rounded, blue flowers.
- ‘Blue Wave’ (Lacecap) produces rich blue to mauve or lilac-blue to pink flowers.
- ‘Color Fantasy’ (Mophead) has reddish or deep purple flowers and shiny, dark green leaves. It grows to about 3 feet tall.
- Mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata)
- Examples are ‘Bluebird’ and ‘Diadem’.
In acidic soil, ‘Preziosa’ produces blossoms of an extraordinary blend of pale shades of blue, mauve, violet, and green.
- Examples are ‘Bluebird’ and ‘Diadem’.
- Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala ssp. Petiolaris)
- ‘Firefly’ is a newly-patented variety exhibiting variegated foliage.
For more about hydrangea varieties, see Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.
Harvesting
How to Cut and Store Dried Hydrangea Flowers
Use dried hydrangea flowers to create a wreath or other decorations around the house:
- Cut the flower heads when the flowers have matured and developed a papery consistency.
- Remove leaves from stems, and hang upside down in a warm, dry, dark, airy room.
- When completely dry (usually a couple of weeks), store in a dry location out of direct sunlight.
- To enhance flower color, spritz dry flowers with diluted fabric dye.
How to Use Hydrangeas in a Bouquet
- Place the freshly cut hydrangea stems immediately into cold water to avoid wilting.
- Recut the woody stems at a slant under water. Remove lower leaves on the stems.
- Arrange the stems in a vase and place in a cool spot.
- Check the water in the vase daily and mist the blooms with water.
- Soak wilting blooms in cool water for 10 to 15 minutes to revive them.
Wit and Wisdom
- The word “hydrangea” is derived from Greek hydor meaning “water” and angeion meaning “vessel,” referring to the plant’s seed pods, which look like small water jugs.
- In the language of flowers, hydrangeas symbolize gratitude for being understood, or frigidity and heartlessness. See more flower meanings.
Pests/Diseases
Pests are rare, but can appear when plants become stressed. Common pests include aphids and red spider mites. Powdery mildew, leaf spot, wilt, and bight can all appear on hydrangeas. Protect against pests and disease by choosing resistant cultivars and follow our tips on caring for your hydrangea.
Why Hydrangeas Don’t Bloom
A more common problem is hydrangeas that don’t bloom. Here are five common reasons your hydrangea isn’t flowering:
- As discussed above, you need to know the variety of hydrangea as some types are pruned before flowering and some are pruned afterwards. Without knowing this, you risk cutting off its buds (aka blooms).
- There’s a reason why “hydra” is in the word “hydrangeas.” These plants need soil that is always moist (but not wet). Water correctly.
-
The perfect location for a hydrangea is a place with a few hours of direct sun in the morning and dappled sunlight in the afternoon. Too little sunlight or overly intense sunlight affects flowering.
-
Are you getting lush green leaves without blooms? Then check your fertilizer. Do not use a fertilizer high in nitrogen; use one that’s high in phosphorus (P) in the early spring and mid-summer.
-
Weather and climate is an issue. You must pick a variety that works for your climate zone.
And even then, a late spring frost that happens right when the plant is budding could kill the buds. If a frost is forecasted, cover hydrangeas the shrubs with a sheet until morning.
Hydrangea Care & Planting - How to Grow Hydrangea Flowers
Learn about growing hydrangeas, including pruning and design tips, how soil plays a role in their color and which type is best for your garden By Jenny Andrews; Updated by Sarah Hutchinson on May 26, 2021
'Limelight'. Photo by: Proven Winners.
Hydrangeas are popular shrubs with colorful flowers that bloom through summer and into fall. They usually bloom in shades of blue, purple, and pink, with some selections in white, green, or red. Most hydrangea bushes are easy to grow in Zones 3-9 and prefer partial shade.
On this page: Basics | Planting | Care | Pictures | Landscaping with Hydrangea
On this page:
- HYDRANGEA OVERVIEW
- PLANTING HYDRANGEAS
- CARE & PRUNING HYDRANGEAS
- HYDRANGEA PICTURES
- LANDSCAPING WITH HYDRANGEAS
HYDRANGEA OVERVIEW
Zones:
Varieties suitable for zones 3-9.
Height/Spread:
Mature size differs depending on the variety. Some are as small as 3 feet tall and wide, while others can reach 15 feet tall and 12 feet wide.
Sun or shade?
Most hydrangea plants bloom best in part shade, but some will tolerate full shade or full sun. The amount of sun they can handle depends on your location—in areas further north they can take more sun, while further south they prefer just a few hours of morning sunlight.
Bloom time:
Hydrangeas usually bloom in summer, with some blooming earlier in the season and some later (and if you’re lucky, possibly even into fall).
Flower color:
Most bloom in shades of blue, purple or pink, but there are also white, green, and even some red varieties. Many will open one color and then change colors as they age. Additionally, flower color (mainly on bigleaf or mountain varieties) can be manipulated to be more blue, pink or purple depending on soil composition and soil pH levels.
Learn more about how to change the color of hydrangeas.
Types of hydrangeas:
There are six main types:
- Bigleaf or French (Hydrangea macrophylla)
- Oakleaf (Hydrangea quercifolia)
- Climbing (Hydrangea petiolaris)
- Panicle (Hydrangea paniculata)
- Smooth (Hydrangea arborescens)
- Mountain (Hydrangea serrata)
Additionally, there is a wide variety of characteristics to choose from: standard-size shrubs, smaller dwarf varieties, or taller tree-like forms. You can also choose from four distinct flower shapes: lacecap, panicle, mophead or snowball. There are also types that bloom on old wood, types that bloom on new wood, and types that bloom on both, often referred to as “reblooming” or “remontant” types.
Compare the sizes, light needs and bloom time of the different hydrangea types and determine which ones meet your gardening needs.
Are hydrangeas poisonous?
Leaves and flower buds can be seriously harmful to dogs and cats if eaten.
See more Common Poisonous Plants for Dogs and Cats.
2022 Hydrangea of the Year:
Little Quick Fire® panicle hydrangea
2022 Landscape Shrub of the Year:
Incrediball® smooth hydrangea
PLANTING HYDRANGEAS
Growing hydrangeas successfully starts with the planting process. It's all about timing, location and healthy soil.
When to plant hydrangeas:
Container-purchased plants should be planted in spring or fall.
Make sure there is no threat of frost when planting.
Where to plant hydrangeas:
- The best location is one that receives morning sun and afternoon shade. If you live further north, they will tolerate more sun (possibly full sun all day).
- Consider mature size, give it plenty of room to grow.
- Choose an area with excellent drainage. Amend the soil with compost if necessary.
- Don't plant beneath a tree—the root competition and lack of sunlight will prevent them from thriving.
- Avoid planting in exposed areas where gusty winds could snap stems.
How to plant hydrangeas:
- Get your plant off to a healthy start by amending your soil with up to 15% organic matter and an all-purpose slow-release fertilizer (use half of what is recommended).
- Plant slightly higher than they were in the nursery container.
- The planting hole should be 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball to give the roots plenty of room for expansion.
- Gently loosen potbound roots before planting.
- Backfill with the amended soil and water well.
- If planting a grouping, space at least 3 feet apart (more, if planting larger varieties).
Planting hydrangeas in pots:
- Use a bagged potting mix rather than garden soil.
- Mix in a slow-release fertilizer.
- Leave 1 to 2 inches between the top of the soil and the rim of the pot for watering.
- Make sure the pot has drainage holes and has room for the plant to grow.
HYDRANGEA CARE & PRUNING
If you wait until spring to prune your mophead hydrangeas (H. macrophylla), be careful not to remove the new buds that are forming. Photo by: Dorling Kindersley ltd / Alamy Stock Photo.
Pruning hydrangeas:
Many don’t need major pruning; most need just enough to keep them tidy by removing old flowers and dead stems, improve the shrub’s structure or shape, or to open it up to let sun and air in.
How and when to prune depends on the type you are growing. You’ll need to determine whether your plant blooms on old wood, new wood, or both before proceeding to prune.
Learn more here: How to Prune Hydrangeas.
Soil:
All like well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Soil composition can affect the flower color of H. macrophylla and H. serrata; other varieties can tolerate a range of soil alkalinity.
Learn more here: Changing Hydrangea Color.
Amendments and fertilizer:
Mulch with organic material annually or add a slow-release rose fertilizer (15-10-10) with thorough watering before and after application. Learn more about how to fertilize hydrangeas properly.
Watering hydrangeas:
They like to be kept moist, but not wet—and don’t let them dry out. Container plants may need daily watering. Add mulch to help keep soil moist.
Diseases and pests:
Generally not affected by serious disease or insect problems, however, many species may be susceptible to some bud blight, bacterial wilt, leaf spot, or mildew.
Keep an eye out for aphids and mites, and treat as needed. Japanese beetles can be a problem on oakleaf varieties.
Why is my hydrangea not blooming?
This is more common with types that bloom on old wood (last year’s growth). Three common reasons are:
- You may have pruned at the wrong time and inadvertently removed the stems that would have produced flowers.
- The flower buds may have been damaged by a hard frost—cover plants during cold snaps if this may be any issue.
- It could be caused by too much shade or over-fertilizing.
Learn more: 8 Reasons Why Your Hydrangeas Won't Bloom
Get timely planting advice, design ideas and tips in our weekly gardening newsletter.
HYDRANGEA PICTURES — VARIETIES TO GROW
Swipe to view slides
Photo by: Proven Winners.
'LIMELIGHT' — Buy now from Proven Winners
Panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata)
Zone: 3-9
Exposure: Part sun to sun
Height/Spread: 6-8 feet tall & wide
Bloom time: Late summer through fall
Flower color: Lime green, aging to white
Photo by: Proven Winners.
INCREDIBALL® — Buy now from Proven Winners
Smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens)
Zone: 3-8
Exposure: Part sun to sun
Height/Spread: 4-5 feet tall & wide
Bloom time: Summer
Flower color: White (also available in blush)
2022 National Landscape Shrub of the Year
Photo by: Proven Winners.
PINKY WINKY® — Buy now from Proven Winners
Panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata)
Zone: 3-8
Exposure: Part sun to sun
Height/Spread: 6-8 feet tall & wide
Bloom time: Mid-summer to fall
Flower color: White to pink
Photo by: Proven Winners.
LITTLE QUICK FIRE® — Buy now from Proven Winners
Panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata)
Zone: 3-8
Exposure: Part sun to sun
Height/Spread: 3-5 feet tall & wide
Bloom time: Early to late summer
Flower color: White, aging to pink-red
2022 National Hydrangea of the Year
For a larger version (6 to 8 feet tall & wide), try Quick Fire®.
Photo by: Proven Winners.
TUFF STUFF AH-HA® — Buy now from Proven Winners
Reblooming mountain hydrangea (H. serrata)
Zone: 5-9
Exposure: Part sun to sun
Height/Spread: 2-3 feet tall & wide
Bloom time: Summer through fall
Flower color: Blue in acidic soil, pink in alkaline soil
2021 National Hydrangea of the Year
Photo by: Proven Winners.
INVINCIBELLE® RUBY — Buy now from Proven Winners
Smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens)
Zone: 3-8
Exposure: Sun
Height/Spread: 3-4 feet tall, 2-3 feet wide
Bloom time: Summer
Flower color: Ruby red to silvery pink
2020 National Hydrangea of the Year
Photo by: Proven Winners.
LET'S DANCE® BLUE JANGLES® — Buy now from Proven Winners
Bigleaf hydrangea (H.
macrophylla)
Zone: 5-9
Exposure: Part sun to sun
Height/Spread: 1-2 feet tall, 2-3 feet wide
Bloom time: Summer
Flower color: Blue in acidic soil, pink in alkaline soil
Photo by: Proven Winners.
BOBO® — Buy now from Proven Winners
Panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata)
Zone: 3-8
Exposure: Part sun to sun
Height/Spread: 3 feet tall, 3-4 feet wide
Bloom time: Summer to fall
Flower color: White, aging to pink
Photo by: Proven Winners.
FIRE LIGHT® — Buy now from Proven Winners
Panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata)
Zone: 3-8
Exposure: Part sun to sun
Height/Spread: 6-8 feet tall & wide
Bloom time: Summer
Flower color: White, aging to red
Photo by: Ellen McKnight / Shutterstock.
com.
ENDLESS SUMMER®
Bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla 'Balimer')
Zone: 4-9
Exposure: Part sun to sun
Height/Spread: 3-5 feet tall & wide
Bloom time: Late spring until fall
Flower color: Blue in acidic soil, pink in alkaline soil
Photo by: ANGHI / Shutterstock.com.
'NIKKO BLUE'
Bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla)
Zone: 5-9
Exposure: Part sun
Height/Spread: 4-6 feet tall & wide
Bloom time: Early summer
Flower color: Blue in acidic soil, pinkish hue in alkaline soil
Photo by: My Rubio Garden / Shutterstock.com.
VANILLA STRAWBERRY™
Panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata)
Zone: 4-8
Exposure: Sun to part shade
Height/Spread: 6-7 feet tall & wide
Bloom time: Mid-summer to fall
Flower color: White, aging to strawberry red; red stems
LANDSCAPING WITH HYDRANGEAS
Hydrangeas can play many roles in the garden, from hedges and screens to container plants, and they especially shine in borders.
- White-flowered varieties create the illusion of snowballs in summer.
- Mass pink and blue types with similarly-colored garden phlox and lilies for a visual confection of candy colors.
- Blue hydrangeas look like sapphires against a gray wall or set alongside a slate patio.
- Bigleaf varieties make imposing container plants—feature a pair in large urns.
- Panicle hydrangeas can be maintained as good-sized “trees” in large pots. Learn how to grow a hydrangea tree.
- Oakleaf hydrangeas are bold and have a coarse texture that lends visual strength to shrub borders and woodland plantings.
MORE ON HYDRANGEAS
Types of Hydrangeas
How to Prune Hydrangeas
How to Fertilize Hydrangeas
Changing Hydrangea Color
White Hydrangeas
8 Reasons Hydrangeas Won't Bloom
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How to plant hydrangeas: 7 main features
Hydrangea is a flowering shrub that is absolutely amazing in its wondrous beauty.
Huge, multi-colored, lush caps of its inflorescences fascinate the eye and make you forget about everything in the world.
The gradual change of colors and shades of its flowers is also striking. It is as if you find yourself at some kind of fabulous ball of flowers, changing their clothes from pale green to snow-white-crimson, and soft blue to lilac-violet or snow-white-golden. nine0003
The richness of shades in the multicolored inflorescences of hydrangeas is so great that you seem to dissolve in it and do not want to leave this marvelous corner of the blooming garden.
We have already talked about the nature of this wonderful culture, about its types and in great detail about agricultural technology in published articles:
“Choosing frost-resistant hydrangeas”;
"How to care for hydrangeas in the summer and autumn." nine0015
Today we will talk about how to properly plant hydrangeas.
There are many subtleties here, without knowing which you can not get a beautiful shrub with lush inflorescence brushes. He may not take root at all and die in the very first winter if the landing is done incorrectly and at the wrong time.
MAIN FEATURES OF PLANTING HYDENSIA
Planting, replanting and dividing bushes should be done only in spring.
Many gardeners believe that hydrangeas, like most perennial ornamental plants, should be planted and transplanted in late August - early September. nine0003
But this is a big mistake. Hydrangea - slowly and difficult to take root in a new place, so she needs enough time for this. As a rule, in most of Russia, hydrangeas are planted in mid-May (in more northern regions - at the end of the month). In the south of the country, autumn planting is also acceptable.
Over the summer, young bushes will take root well in a new place and have time to prepare for the winter cold.
It is very important to choose the right place for planting Hydrangeas .
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Hydrangea should be planted in light partial shade, so that in the midday hours (from 12 to 15 hours) it is not under the scorching sun. The rest of the time it should be brightly lit, otherwise you will not get beautiful flowering.
Planted in the shade, the hydrangea will start to get sick, its inflorescences will become smaller and in the end the plant may simply die.
Another site chosen for planting hydrangeas should be well protected from cold winds and drafts. A wonderful sissy, hydrangea will suffer greatly even from a not very strong draft. This again can lead to her illness. nine0003
The best place for her is near the south side of the house, protected by a wall, fence or other bushes. But at the same time, the latter should not shade it from the sun.
Hydrangeas do not tolerate close groundwater (they should be no closer than 1.5 m from the ground). And they will not grow in flooded lowland areas. Water should not stand around the bushes.
Under such conditions, hydrangeas are planted in high flower beds at least 50 cm high.
Soils play a huge role in the proper growth and development of hydrangeas.
Hydrangeas love fertile, loose, well-permeable water and breathable neutral or slightly acidic soils (pH 6.5 - 7.0), rich in organic matter. On heavy clays with an acidic reaction, neutralization is necessary. To do this, use dolomite flour (2 kg per 5 sq. M of planting area).
It is advisable to carry out this operation in the autumn, but it is also possible in the spring at least 3 weeks before planting.
Hydrangeas also don't like alkaline soils, so don't plant them near an outdoor sink or where you pour water after washing. nine0003
Need to know how to plant a hydrangea.
When planting, all the native soil from the planting pits is selected and filled with a soil mixture, which we recommend that you make up of: the top fertile layer, rotted manure, leafy soil and sand (preferably river sand) in equal amounts.
In addition to each hole, add the following fertilizers: superphosphate (2 tablespoons), potassium sulfate (1.5 tablespoons), wood ash (1/4 bucket) and dolomite flour (1 cup only on acidic soils). nine0003
Planting pits are dug 40 cm deep and 40 cm in diameter. At the bottom of each pit, drainage is laid from broken brick or crushed stone with a layer of 10 cm. After planting, the hydrangea's root neck should be at ground level.
Water the planted bushes well (2 watering cans under each) and mulch with peat chips or sawdust. Such an operation will help to keep moisture in the ground and will prevent the growth of weeds in the near-stem circles of young plants.
Neighbor plants are very important for hydrangeas. nine0010
Hydrangeas are strongly affected by plants planted next to them. In no case should it be planted next to blackcurrants, since the essential oil substances found in the tissues of this berry crop adversely affect the delicate hydrangea.
Also an undesirable neighbor will be white acacia, the roots of which emit poisonous substances that depress the root system of the hydrangea.
Perfect neighbors will be perennial flowers - peonies, irises, hostas, astilbes, hybrid tea roses. nine0003
Keep your hydrangea bed away from herbs and garlic. If you are planning a flower garden next to the garden, cucumbers and zucchini will be the best neighbors for hydrangeas.
Do not plant hydrangeas next to trees and tall shrubs with well-developed roots, even if they do not shade them. These "neighbors" will constantly take away all the nutrients and water from the more tender and delicate hydrangea!
Planting hydrangeas will not be successful without abundant watering. nine0010
Remember an important rule: water hydrangeas only with warm water heated to a temperature of at least 30 degrees!
In the first two weeks after planting, hydrangeas are watered every day (if the weather is dry and sunny, and the air temperature is above +16 degrees).
If the air warms up only to +14 degrees - water every 3 days. In such conditions, the plant stops growing and, as it were, freezes, waiting for warmer weather!
Then reduce watering to twice a week. In a month, one weekly watering will be enough (in the heat, increase the frequency of watering). nine0003
How to influence the color of hydrangea flowers when planting .
The color of hydrangea is one of the main varietal characteristics, so it was originally laid down in it (each variety has its own). But if you want to experiment a little, you can give the flowers either blue or pink.
When planting, acidify the soil with a weak solution of citric acid or Blue Hydrangea fertilizer, and you will get various blue shades of flowers.
If you want them to be pink, add crushed chalk or 1.5 cups of dolomite flour. And if you want to get both those and other shades on different inflorescences at the same time, add the above ingredients from different sides of the bush.
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But it is better to do this not when planting, but after a couple of years, when the bush grows and gets stronger.
THE BEST VARIETY OF HYDROANGIAS FROM OUR COLLECTION
Now that you know how to plant hydrangeas in spring, we offer you the best varieties from our unique collection of this most beautiful, bright and luxuriant flowering shrub that will delight you with its truly heavenly beauty for many years to come .
Our novelties:
Oakleaf Hydrangea: Harmony, Snow Flakes.
Our collection:
Large-leaved Hydrangea: Joy, Fiery Red, Bluebird, Mint.
Hydrangea arborescens: Sterilis, Annabelle .
Hydrangea paniculata: Grandiflora, Vanilla Fries, Sunday Fries, Unique, Lemon Light .
You can buy all these varieties from us today!
outdoor planting and care, species, propagation
Many gardeners buy the wrong species and varieties, so they do not succeed.
Usually they take the most spectacular bushes, with blue and pink inflorescences. But this is a large-leaved hydrangea, and it is the most thermophilic. Yes, it can also be grown in the middle lane, but you have to tinker a lot. But there are more unpretentious species that are not afraid of frost.
Winter-hardy hydrangeas
Hydrangea genus includes 52 species (1), but much less is used in horticulture. And there are two truly frost-resistant ones: tree hydrangea and panicled hydrangea. Experienced gardeners usually have no problems with them. Know yourself to water without sparing, fertilize when necessary, and cut if the bush is thickened and the inflorescences are crushed. These hydrangeas winter in the middle lane without shelter, but to the north they freeze slightly without it.
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Winter-hardy varieties of Hydrangea arborescens
In hydrangea arborescens, the most famous is Annabelle (Annabelle), with large caps of snow-white inflorescences. The bush is sprawling, in favorable conditions it grows up to 1.5 m. The branches often bend under the weight of the inflorescences, especially after rain. Almost as popular are Grandiflora (Grandiflora) with cream and Sterilis (Sterilis) with white-green, then whitening petals.
But the lesser-known novelties so far: Hayes Starburst (Hayes Starburst) with white double flowers, Incredible (Incredible) (first lemon green, then white, and green by autumn). And, of course, pink Invincibelle Spirit (Invincibelle Spirit)!
Winter-hardy varieties of panicled hydrangea
The most common decorative form of panicled hydrangea is Grandiflora (Grandiflora). When blooming, its inflorescences up to 30 cm long are creamy white, then pure white, later they turn pink, and in autumn they become greenish-red.
And this is the most frost-resistant variety in the middle lane (2)! Take a closer look at other varieties of panicle hydrangea. For example, to dwarf Bobo (Bobo) 60 - 70 cm high. Inflorescences abundantly covering the bush, first in lemon-green tones, then turn white and even turn slightly pink. Slightly larger than Little Lime (Little Lime). In partial shade, the flowers of this hydrangea are greenish all season, and in the sun they acquire a pinkish tint by autumn. Wims Red (Wim's Red), 1.5 - 2 m high. Blooming flowers are first creamy white, then pink and wine red by autumn.
And the most beautiful are Pinky Winky (Pinky Winky), Vanille Fraise (Vanille Fraise) and Limelight (Limelight) - they gain the highest marks for all indicators of decorativeness (3).
Photo: Anatoly ZhdanovWinter-hardy varieties of large-leaved hydrangea
New - hydrangea Endless Summer (Endless Summer).
Pink and blue. Blooming on the shoots of both the past and the current year! That is, remontant, and even wintering normally in the middle lane. Yes, with cover.
There are 9 more0009 Twits and Shout (Twist and Shout) - she has blue and pink varieties. And also variety Expression (Expression): its graceful flowers are purple-blue in acidic soil and pink in alkaline soil. All of them can withstand up to -29 ° C.
That is, a gardener who has taken care of a winter shelter for hydrangeas will be able to admire flowering from July to September-October! The main thing is to open them on time, but not too early in the spring, and in the summer, especially hot, indulge in watering.
Planting hydrangea outdoors
Hydrangea likes rich soils and does not tolerate excess lime. When planting in a pit, you need to add humus, peat, a little sand to clay soil. It would be good to mulch the trunk circle with riding (red) peat or coniferous litter.
It is better to plant hydrangeas in the garden in late spring. Seedlings with well-developed roots can be planted in early September. In the summer? After all, it is known that container plants can be planted throughout the warm season. Theoretically, this also applies to hydrangeas, but the problem is that in summer it is very hot and dry, and hydrangeas are water drinkers. If you live in a country house or you have a country house and you have the opportunity to water the sazhens every day, then plant it. If you come to the site on weekends, it is better not to risk it. nine0003
Planting holes are dug 50 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter. Humus, peat are added to it, and a little sand is added to clay soil.
If the soil is alkaline, it must be acidified with high-moor peat, Kemira-universal fertilizer or acidifier Acid plus. Lime and ash must not be brought into the planting pits! They alkalize the soil.
Hydrangea has a shallow root system, so it is not recommended to plant it close to trees and other shrubs - they will take moisture from it.
After planting, it is useful to mulch the trunk circle with high-moor peat or coniferous litter.
Photo: Mikhail Frolov Photo: Mikhail Frolov Photo: Mikhail Frolov Photo: Mikhail FrolovHydrangea care in open ground
Watering. Hydrangeas should be watered abundantly and often. In summer, it is supposed to pour 3-5 buckets of water under each bush! In hot weather - twice a week. On rainy days, once a week.
If it is not possible to water twice a week, it is necessary to mulch the soil with peat in a layer of 5 - 10 cm - it slows down the evaporation of water from the soil. nine0003
Top dressing . During the summer, hydrangeas need three top dressings:
- In the spring, at the beginning of growth - 2 tbsp. spoons of urea, 2 tbsp. spoons of double superphosphate, 1.5 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate per 1 sq. m.
- During the budding period - 3 - 4 st. spoons of double superphosphate, 2 tbsp.
spoons of potassium sulfate per 1 sq. m. - At the end of summer - 1.5 - 2 buckets of humus or compost for each bush.
Mineral fertilizers are spread evenly under the bush, covered with a rake and watered. Humus and compost are poured out in an even layer - it is not necessary to close up their soil. nine0003
Cutting. In order for the hydrangea to bloom profusely and for a long time, it must be cut off annually - then more additional shoots with flowers are formed. Usually leave 6 - 10 of the strongest shoots. And they, in turn, are shortened, cut off the top with 2 - 5 kidneys.
Propagation of hydrangeas in the open ground
There are 4 ways to propagate hydrangeas: seeds, cuttings, green cuttings and lignified cuttings. It is difficult to propagate with seeds and this method is only suitable for species plants - varieties will not retain their characteristics. So it's not worth the hassle. But the rest of the ways are pretty simple.
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Layering . The easiest way is to just bend the lower branch to the ground, pin it with wire, sprinkle it with earth, and bring the top up and tie it to a peg. You can do this throughout the summer. In the spring of next year, until the leaves have blossomed, the shoot is cut off from the bush, dug up with a clod of earth and planted in a permanent place.
Green cuttings. They are cut in mid-June 15-20 cm long. The lower pair of leaves is cut off. The lower cut is treated with Heterauxin or Kornevin (4) and stuck into loose soil so that it contains at least one internode (preferably two). The leaves are cut to 2/3 so as not to evaporate a lot of moisture. The planted cutting is covered with a jar or plastic bottle. nine0003
It is better to root the cuttings in the shade . They are transplanted to a permanent place in the spring of next year.
Woody cuttings. They are cut in the first half of April.
The technology is the same as with green cuttings. But they take root worse.
Popular questions and answers
We talked about hydrangeas with agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova - we asked her the most popular questions of summer residents.
Can hydrangeas be planted in the shade? nine0027
Hydrangea is fairly shade tolerant. But the less light, the worse the flowering, and the more sun, the more abundant the watering should be. So you have to make compromises. In the southern regions, plant so that at noon the hydrangea hides in partial shade, otherwise you won’t get enough water, and the inflorescences can burn out from the direct sun. And in the middle lane it is better to choose a sunny or shaded place for a small part of the day.
Can hydrangeas be planted next to trees?
Definitely not possible to plant it with large aquatic trees. And hydrangea does not get along with a powerful specimen of girlish grapes - in summer it will not have enough moisture even with regular watering.
The exception is a very damp area. nine0003
Is it possible to grow hydrangea in a pot?
Heat-loving varieties of large-leaved hydrangea can be grown in a pot. This is a fairly popular indoor plant, but for the summer it can be taken out into the garden. Hydrangea pots can be placed on the porch, decorate the patio, seating area, gazebo, or dig pots in the garden. But for the winter they will need to be brought into the house.
How to use hydrangea in landscape design?
Hydrangeas look good in the company of flowering and decorative leafy perennials, such as astilbes, echinoceas, vines, hostas, ferns, cereals. They fit perfectly into coniferous compositions. Hydrangeas also look impressive against the background of large stones. Great company for them - heathers and erics. nine0003
Why is the hydrangea not blooming?
There may be several reasons:
• flower buds killed by frost - this can happen both in winter and in spring, during frosts;
• plant suffering from drought - these plants like frequent and plentiful watering;
• Incorrect pruning - many varieties bloom on last year's shoots, and if the branches are cut short in autumn, they will not bloom next summer.
