When to plant ornamental grass
Planting Ornamental Grasses | Bioadvanced
Looking for plants that stage a strong, multi-season show with minimal input? Consider adding easy-growing ornamental grasses to your yard. Hearty perennials, many withstand bitter winter cold and sizzling summer temperatures. Learn more about summer-proof ornamental grasses.
Review these basics of growing ornamental grass to decide if these low-maintenance plants belong in your landscape.
What does an ornamental grass bring to the garden party?
These perennials are unequaled for introducing texture to garden plantings. Many also provide outstanding winter interest. Grasses offer two things to the garden that many plants cannot: movement and sound. A gentle breeze rustles stems against one another and creates a ripple of motion that steals the show. Grasses also offer an array of colors, including vibrant gold, fiery red, dusky black tones and variegated patterns.
Do grasses need full sun to grow?
Most grow best in direct sun and tend to become floppy in lower light. Full sun (6 to 8 hours) is ideal, but you can always try in 4-5 hours and see what happens. Some grasses thrive in low light, such as Japanese forest grass or inland sea oats.
What kind of soil do grasses require?
You can find a grass to suit any soil type. Many grasses prefer well-drained soil, but some thrive in moist soil or heavy clay. Some demand fertile soil; others grow gangbusters in poor, rocky soil. Do your homework, and choose the right grass for your conditions — or amend your soil to suit the grass you want.
When is the best time to plant?
In mild climates, you can plant grasses year-round, whenever they're available for sale. In zones where the ground freezes, spring and early fall offer ideal planting windows. Avoid planting within four weeks of the first fall frost.
When do I fertilize?
Feed established grasses in spring and late summer. Scratch a granular slow-release fertilizer into soil around plants.
Do grasses have pests?
Rarely. You may occasionally have an Aphid or Mite attack. Squirting the grass with a strong spray of water dislodges insects. Rabbits and deer tend to leave ornamental grasses alone.
How often do ornamental grasses need division?
Most grasses can grow for many years without division. That's part of their low-maintenance charm. Divide when the clump dies in the center. The best time to divide is in early spring, before new growth begins. Some grasses develop thick root masses that may require a chainsaw to separate.
Do I need to prune?
For most grasses, cut them back before new growth appears at the start of the growing season. In warmer zones, some grasses are evergreen and don't really require pruning, unless dead leaves collect around the base of the clump. Remove those.
Are there any tricks to make pruning easy?
For small clumps, use hand pruners or shears.
Electric hedge trimmers offer a quick pruning option, especially with large clumps. For easy clean-up, wrap a bungee cord around large clumps and cut beneath the cord. Wear gloves for protection, particularly when working with grasses that have razor-sharp edges.
Are ornamental grasses invasive?
Some species are in certain regions. Miscanthus has become a large problem in the Northeast. Fountain Grass (Pennisetum setaceum) has invaded parts of the West. You can limit the invasive potential of some grasses by removing seedheads before seeds mature. Cut just beneath the seedhead, and you'll still have tall stems to linger through winter. There may also be seedless varieties available.
To determine if a grass is invasive in your region, check with your local native plant society or state Department of Natural Resources, or consult the Invasive Plant Atlas of the United States.
More Lawn Solution Articles for You
Ornamental Grasses That Take the Heat
Ornamental grasses that can survive the heat.
Many ornamental grasses, such as tall grasses and perennial grasses, boast a tough-as-nails...
read more
Effective SpiderMite Killing Techniques
Control spider mites with a spider mite killer before it’s too late. A spidermite usually survive typical insecticides and spider mite spray...
read more
How To Trim A Tree
Using the right pruning tools to cut tree branches can keep trees healthy. There are a number of pruning tools to trim tree branches....
read more
Copyright © 2022 bioadvanced.com All Right Reserved.
How to grow ornamental grasses: Easy-to-grow grasses
(Image credit: Future / Annaick Guitteny)
If you're wondering how to grow ornamental grasses in your garden, they are an easy way to add excitement to any planting scheme.
They are the ideal solution to early-fall doldrums: as summer flowers fade, their subtly colored foliage and sprays of tiny flowers will take centre stage.
An environmentally friendly garden idea, they need no staking, dead-heading or spraying, so footfall levels throughout the borders are kept low and new wildlife habitats can develop safety, while the seeds feed the birds.
And whatever the conditions in your garden, you can find a species that thrives. Anemanthele lessoniana, for instance, will flourish in dry shade and never needs watering. Bothriochloa Bladji likes well-drained soil in full sun, while Deschampsia can cope with heavy clay.
Grasses are a lovely choice if you're looking for flower bed ideas with a difference, as they create a variety of wonderful effects. From the tall, arching Calamagrostis, which evokes the atmosphere of a cornfield, to the smart, ground-hugging Hakonechloa, which is ideal for shade, pots and formal schemes.
For transparency, choose Molinia or, for a small patch of ornamental lawn or even a roof, look at the unassuming, Sesleria ‘Greenlee’, which is a new hybrid of S. caerulea and S. autumnalis.
(Image credit: Future / Annaick Guitteny)
How to grow ornamental grasses
Spring is the season to sow grasses from seed. They can be sown directly in open ground where they are to flower. They will perform best in an open, sunny position.
In order to rejuvenate grasses it’s a good idea to divide them, but it’s important to do this at the right time of year.
If you’re buying plants directly from garden nurseries, try getting them around spring so they can be planted directly into the ground. Fall is also a good time to plant ornamental grasses. This will allow the seeds time to adapt to the conditions before the worst of the winter weather arrives.
Why choose ornamental grasses?
(Image credit: Future / Mark Bolton)
The grass isn't always greener, particularly when you look at the amazing ornamental varieties that are available.
They come in vibrant colors and sumptuous textures that delight throughout the year. Many develop into ground-hugging hummocks, making them great weed suppressants.
Consider adding them to a rock garden, or replacing a tired lawn in a small backyard, for example, with a no-mow carpet of shorter ornamental grass.
Evergreen varieties give year-round cover and little room for the unwanted plant invaders to squeeze through. Ornamental grasses not only add movement but also bring a pleasing musical note to the garden as they rustle and gently sway in the breeze.
Are ornamental grasses easy to grow?
Ornamental grasses are surprisingly easy to grow, no matter the condition of your garden.
The unfussy form of ornamental grasses has made them a stalwart of the contemporary garden designer’s plant palette. They provide a seemingly endless variety of color and texture. Plus they have see-through, wispy growth and swaying flowers that take on a magical quality when gilded with spider’s webs and frost.
(Image credit: Future)
In the depths of winter, ornamental grasses like Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’, Molinia caerulea ‘Transparent’ and evergreen Stipa gigantea also become eye-catching ice sculptures when covered in a foggy mist, or ice and snow.
You’ll find perennials, such as verbascum or mulleins, poppies, day lilies and red hot pokers work best when planted in among a river of swaying grasses, just as you’d see in the American prairies. This ‘natural’ style is a brilliant solution for linking formal parts of the garden to the surrounding countryside.
Traditional gardeners like ornamental grasses too, mainly using them to stretch the interest in their cottage-style borders into fall and beyond.
For the best effect, and to update your flower beds, simply weave them alongside sedums, asters and heleniums, so that their spiky flowers contrast with the flat heads and daisy blooms of these late-flowering perennials.
Make sure you use the best-behaved clump-forming ornamental grasses, such as fountain grass or Pennisetum. Another good choice is Imperata cylindrica ‘Rubra’, producing blood-red spikes that fade to bright green at the base and become translucent by late summer.
Plant it alongside the white-edged Hosta ‘Francee’ for good effect. Always be wary of vigorous spreaders, such as ribbon grass, which can take over.
Do ornamental grasses like sun or shade?
Ornamental grasses are split into two main groups. Firstly, taller deciduous varieties, which thrive in the sun and have lovely seedbeds.
Secondly, shorter evergreens, including carex varieties, grow well in damp, shaded conditions, and Hakonechloa macra, cope in dry shade, making them a great choice if you're looking for garden shade ideas.
The other group includes tall grasses such as Molinia, Miscanthus, Stipa and Panicum, which flourish in sunny, open spaces, looking their best from late summer, when they erupt into a haze of burnished spikelets.
What are the different types of ornamental grasses?
(Image credit: Unsplash)
Coming in different shades or blue, gray, buff and gold, there’s an ornamental grass for every situation.
Taller varieties are ideal for fall borders, adding body, highlights and rhythm. Place them in the middle of a border if the grass is untidy, like the elegant Calamagrostis brachytricha. Shorter ones will spill casually over the edges of containers, making them a great choice if you're looking for raised garden bed ideas.
Most are tough, provided they don’t become waterlogged, coping well in a sunny spot, in light soil.
Medium-sized varieties like tufted hair grass (Deschampsia ‘Goldtau’) or pheasant’s grass (Anemanthele lessoniana) form fountain-like mounds of golden seedbeds.
Adding body to herbaceous borders, the grassy clumps also support summer’s slender-stemmed plants – verbascum, or astrantias, for example. However, by fall, the fully developed seedbeds add an ethereal haze between bright perennials such as asters, rudbeckias, and sedums, creating cohesion between contrasting elements.
How do you care for ornamental grass?
Ornamental grasses add a light, airy touch to garden borders and, in summer, provide a beautiful foil for more colorful and vivacious plants.
Many can be left alone when winter comes, as their elegant fronds and seedheads give interest when there is little else about, and they also look wonderful when touched by frost on clear, freezing mornings.
However, if they are starting to look a bit bedraggled and battered by winter weather, they will need cutting back in order to grow well and look their best this summer.
Remove the seeded stems with sharp, clean secateurs, taking care not to damage any new growth. Then cut the rest back to a few centimetres from the ground, leaving just a hairy tuft. Weed around the clump, and mulch well to feed the plant as it comes back into growth.
(Image credit: Future / Annaick Guitteny)
Some deciduous species, including Deschampsia and Calamagrostis, should be trimmed before new growth emerges, whereas later-shooting Penniselum can be cut back in late April.
Late pruning is also beneficial for Miscanthus, whereas the deciduous Stipa tenuissima can be treated as you would an evergreen grass, and be cut back now.
Evergreen grasses such as blue fescue (Festuca glauca) just need a trim, so snip off brown tips and remove dead leaves from the base.
Larger evergreens, including pampas grass, should be cut back hard in spring. It used to be a common practice to burn pampas grass, but this is no longer recommended as it can damage new, emerging growth.
What not to do with ornamental grasses
The key to success with ornamental grasses is not to move them too much.
This is a common mistake with ornamental grasses that can send them into shock, although some do transplant better than others. Celebrity gardener Monty Don advises not to divide or move any grasses in March. 'They must be growing strongly to have the best chance of surviving, so wait until late May or even early June.'
Some ornamental grasses, especially the larger Stipas, really hate being moved at all, so leave them.
However, as an exception to the rule, pheasant grass doesn't mind being moved, so you can divide it later in spring.
How to use ornamental grasses in your garden
Have you always thought grass was just for the lawn? Let us introduce you to some stunning ornamental grasses that’ll provide great impact in any garden.
1. Use ornamental grass in a small garden
(Image credit: Future / Mark Bolton )
You might be forgiven for thinking that ornamental grasses are only suitable for large gardens. Piet Oudolf’s much-praised schemes of naturalistic planting would surely not work in a smaller plot?
‘The principles used in this style of planting can be transferred to a tiny garden. The trick is to use just a few types of grasses and perennials,’ says Knoll Gardens grass expert Neil Lucas.
For very small garden ideas, grasses are successful in containers. They’re an instant way of adding height and are so much cheaper than buying large shrubs.
2.
Instil a sense of privacy in your garden with grass(Image credit: Future / Mark Bolton)
Being overlooked is the daily reality for most people living in built-up areas with houses on either side, or immediately backing onto an outside space.
If this is the case for you, then consider investing in containers of wavy, tall grasses, for garden privacy ideas that will allow you to create a more secluded feel.
Add a ‘boundary’ by arranging a row of tall containers and plant with densely tufted blue-grey Festuca glauca and Cortaderia selloana to add height, interest and drama.
Planters can be moved around to change the mood (especially if you choose ones on wheels) or put where you most need them to add to a sense of privacy.
3. Zone areas of a garden with ornamental grasses
(Image credit: Future / Mark Bolton )
As well as being perfect for garden privacy and small gardens, ornamental grass is also a wonderful choice for zoning your garden.
To differentiate between the contrasting areas or levels in your garden, create a layered effect using ornamental grasses. We recommend the Mexican feather grass (Stipa tenuissima) for this particular task.
This ornamental grass is a great deciduous option for a sunny border, combining easily with many perennials and adding movement with its swaying flowerhead that appear from June right through to September.
They can grow up to 2ft (60cm), and spread 1ft (30cm) so are the perfect choice for creating privacy and seclusion for each zone.
4. Edge a path with ornamental grasses
(Image credit: Future / Mark Bolton )
Not only do they add charm and character to your backyard landscaping, ornamental grasses are extremely practical too, separating weeds from flower beds and mulch from lawns. They also provide a clean line for extra-efficient mowing and trimming.
While traditional means of creating a garden border, such as stones, bricks and sleepers, are still hugely popular, ornamental grasses are having something of a moment.
And, for those of us who no longer yearn for the 'tidy' look, we couldn't be more thrilled to welcome these hardy species back into our gardens. This time, we predict, they are here to stay.
Jennifer is the Digital Editor at Homes & Gardens. Having worked in the interiors industry for a number of years, spanning many publications, she now hones her digital prowess on the 'best interiors website' in the world. Multi-skilled, Jennifer has worked in PR and marketing, and the occasional dabble in the social media, commercial and e-commerce space. Over the years, she has written about every area of the home, from compiling design houses from some of the best interior designers in the world to sourcing celebrity homes, reviewing appliances and even the odd news story or two.
How to plant lawn grass - do-it-yourself lawn preparation
So! You have decided to get a lawn in your area. A reasonable question arises - when and how to plant lawn grass?
Let's start in order.
Content:
How to choose lawn grass
When to sow lawn
Preparing the soil for lawn grass
How to plant lawn grass yourself
How to care for lawn grass
Seasonal lawn care
How to choose lawn grass
The decisive issue for the choice of lawn grass mixture is its intended purpose. Usually the name of the lawn grass that you see on the packaging speaks for itself. For example:
Sports turf is a turf for high traffic areas. It can be sports and playgrounds, playgrounds for active games of dogs. Such a lawn is resistant to trampling, but grows quickly, which requires frequent mowing.
Parterre lawn - a lawn with a decorative function, serves as a backdrop for solitary plants and flower beds. It has a bright color and a beautiful sheen. Requires regular watering and space open to sunlight.
Dwarf Lawn is a lawn that contains low growing, slow growing grass species, making it easy to care for and minimizing the need for mowing. It is more often used as decorative, because it is subject to trampling.
Slope Turf - In this lawn, the grasses are selected to form a strong root layer (turf) that is able to hold the soil on the slope and prevent erosion.
When to sow lawn grass
In central Russia, lawn grass seeds can be planted immediately after the snow melts (late April - early May) and until the very end of the confidently warm season (usually October). In a later period, it is not recommended to sow the lawn, since the plants will not have time to fully get stronger before wintering, and as a result, in the spring it will be necessary to oversow, or even re-sow the lawn.
The most favorable period for sowing lawn grass is the end of April - May and September - the beginning of October.
If fresh fertile soil is brought in, it is worth waiting 1-2 weeks before sowing. After spilling the soil, wait 3-4 hours, then sow the lawn.
If sowing lawn grass is carried out in the summer, it is worth waiting for rainy cloudy days.
Do not overdo it with watering. Before germination - watering every day, then no more than 1 time per week.
The first lawn mowing is done when the grass is about 15 cm high.
Before planting the lawn, a drainage system must be established, and, if provided, an electrical supply system and an underground irrigation system.
In order for the lawn to look perfect, it is necessary to level the soil. The slope can be 1-3% to facilitate surface water runoff. A large lawn area can be given a greater slope, but not more than 30%.
Soil preparation for lawn grass
Weed removal
Removing weeds will ensure friendly seedlings, improve the appearance of the lawn and make it easier to further care for it.
Weed control methods:
Freezing is the death of underground parts of weeds in winter. To do this, in the fall it is necessary to carry out deep digging of the soil.
Suffocation - a long-term method based on repeated cutting of weeds at a shallow depth (harrowing for 2-3 years), the effect is achieved by exhausting the rhizome.
Provocation - a couple of weeks before sowing, it is necessary to prepare the soil, and when a lot of weed sprouts appear, they are loosened on the surface, thereby destroying them.
Mulching - covering the soil, depriving weeds of light. For this purpose, ripened compost is well suited, and crushed bark under trees and shrubs.
New primer is the most effective, but laborious and more expensive method. Removing the old soil and laying out the new soil with a drainage system - the soil is removed to a depth of 30 cm and laid out in layers: crushed stone, sand and black earth, and a rolled lawn is laid on top or seeds of lawn grass mixture are sown.
Herbicides - Weeds must be treated when they are actively growing, but must not be mechanically damaged. Within 5-10 days, the herbicide spreads over the entire area of the plant and after 20-30 days the plant dies entirely. Approximately 15 days after the action of the preparation, the land can be cultivated. Herbicides are best applied in the fall if lawn grass is planned to be planted in the spring.
Plots on which weeds have already been removed, it would be good to protect from those that have not yet been processed.
The surface of the soil under the lawn must be leveled - there should be no mounds or holes. As a result, water will accumulate in the pits, which will lead to wetting of the grass, and the bumps will make it difficult for the lawn mower to work.
Soil fertility
The thickness of the fertile layer for the proper development of lawn grass should be at least 10 - 15 cm.
The soil should be improved, depending on its characteristics.
The soil mixture and all its components should be mixed well and embedded in detail into the soil, loosened to a depth of about 40 cm, so that the lower layers do not subsequently move upward. When carrying out these works, it is necessary to remove from the ground all parts of plants that have previously been treated with chemicals, and their roots must also be carefully removed.
In order to make it convenient to care for the edges of the lawn, it is better to fix them. Borders are usually decorated with materials such as gravel, crushed stone or pebbles. You can also use a stone border or tile - this will also look advantageous in a decorative way, and will give you access to mow the edges of the lawn, which will make mowing much easier.
How to sow lawn grass with your own hands
- Level the soil with a rake.
There should be no bumps or depressions. - Seeding rate for lawn grass is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. Sowing is done by hand or with a special manual seeder, the site should be passed several times: in different directions (left to right, right to left and diagonally). This is done to evenly distribute the seeds over the entire area.
For convenience, seeds can be mixed with sand before sowing, then the seeds will not stick together, and sowing will be convenient and even. - Then roll the seeds with a special roller or close them with a rake.
- Be sure to shed the soil well with a nozzle that sprays a fine jet of water.
How to care for lawn grass
During the period of growth of a young lawn, it needs to be provided with:
- sufficient watering
- removal of weeds that will attack a weak lawn
- lawn mowing 5-10 cm
A lawn is considered mature and mature after 2-3 seasons after sowing.
Seasonal lawn care
Lawn grass - when to plant a lawn in the country, how to do it right?
A bright green lawn around the house will be an excellent decoration for any site in Kazan. Lawn grass - when to plant a lawn in the country, how to do it right?
When growing a lawn from grass seeds, the desired green carpet can be obtained only after two or three years, provided that all the rules for caring for grass sprouts are followed. Mistakes in maintenance or the wrong selection of grasses for the soil and climate conditions of a particular site can result in a lawn that is sparse, uneven, with bald patches and patches of yellowed grass.
Planning your future lawn
Before planting grass, it is a good idea to plan your future lawn. You can draw your site to scale and figure out where you plan to arrange a lawn, and where there will be flower beds, garden paths, paved areas and other landscape elements.
Calculate the approximate area occupied by the lawn, you will need this value when buying grass seeds for sowing. If you get a territory of complex shape, estimate the approximate total area rounded up.
When to plan grass seeding?
All warm seasons are suitable for sowing lawn grasses - from mid-April to the first frosts in October. However, September is considered the best time for planting - at this time the soil still retains enough summer heat, and it often rains, irrigating the ground. For seed germination, these are the main factors, it is especially important for them that the soil is warm, at least 8-10 degrees Celsius.
Another important condition that must be observed for successful seedling germination is that the soil should always be slightly moist until the height of the grass seedlings reaches six centimeters. Therefore, the soil in the garden should be constantly moistened, it is advisable to use a fine sprayer for this purpose.
The stability of the weather in Kazan in early autumn speaks in favor of the September sowing.
In summer, usually hot and dry periods alternate with heavy rains, which negatively affects the condition of the grass. And in the spring, as a rule, there is too little rain, so you need to spend time irrigating the future lawn cover.
When lawn grass is planted in September, the sprouts have time to gain enough strength for successful winter care. In the fall, the grass has more roots to grow than shoots, developed rhizomes allow sprouts to survive the winter, show abundant growth in winter and withstand a dry period next summer.
How to prepare the soil for planting?
You can't just buy grass seeds and plant them in the field. The soil for the future lawn must be well prepared so that the seeds take root and give abundant shoots:
- It is necessary to remove any debris from the territory of the future lawn. Some gardeners do not remove natural debris - stones, branches, fallen leaves - but bury it for a "natural ecosystem". This is a gross mistake.
Debris must be removed from the site. - Uproot old stumps, if any. They will not decorate your future lawn, and large and coarse stump roots will prevent the lawn root system from developing.
- Treat area with herbicides to remove weeds.
- Dig up the territory of the future lawn. At the same time, create a drainage layer of their rubble and apply organic fertilizers.
- Carefully level the soil surface. The lawn should not have bumps and depressions, otherwise the water will be distributed unevenly, which will lead to dampness in some places and yellowing in others.
- Compact the soil with a roller, then loosen the topsoil with a rake.
Only after completing all these manipulations will the soil in your area be ready to receive grass seeds. Neglecting any of these steps can result in uneven seed germination. But immediately after completion of work, it is also impossible to sow grass. The prepared area should be left "under steam" for one to two months.
It is recommended to devote this time to studying the characteristics of lawn grasses and compiling a suitable grass mixture for your site, taking into account its agrotechnical features.
Composing the grass mixture
It is very rare to see a perfectly even and bright green mono-lawn - that is, a lawn on which only one variety of lawn grass grows. Much more often for sowing on plots in Kazan, grass mixtures are used, compiled according to certain rules. When choosing varieties for planting on the site, the following factors must be taken into account:
- Soil type and composition;
- Average temperatures throughout the year;
- Light level;
- Degree of soil moisture;
- The purpose of the lawn.
Only an experienced specialist with agrotechnical education can competently analyze all the factors and make the optimal grass mixture for a particular site in Kazan. Without professional knowledge, it is quite difficult to choose a herbal composition for planting.
You may find that the final result of growing a lawn will disappoint you.
Planting the seeds of the future lawn
This stage is one of the most important, correct planting largely determines the appearance of the future lawn. For landing work it is necessary to prepare:
- Seeds of selected herbs;
- Mineral fertilizers;
- Tape for measuring the territory;
- Garden rake;
- Watering can or hose with spray nozzle;
- Seed spreader (you can do without it).
On the day chosen for planting the lawn, the weather must be dry and calm so that the seeds are not flooded with water and are not blown away by gusts of wind. Before sowing, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers and once again loosen the soil with a garden rake.
In some gardening magazines you can find advice to mix grass seeds with sand when planting. However, we do not recommend doing so. You can take more sand than necessary and it will prevent the seeds from germinating.
For even sowing you can use a special seeder, but it is theoretically possible to achieve even sowing by hand. To do this, scatter half the seeds in one direction, and the other half in a direction perpendicular to it.
After sowing is completed, take the garden rake again and very gently mix the soil with the seeds. Ideally, all seeds should go 2-3 mm into the soil, but in practice some of them will remain on the surface. Water your crops carefully.
If done correctly, you will see the first shoots in 1-2 weeks. Throughout this time, it is necessary to water the crops every day so that the soil does not dry out. But at the same time, make sure that the water does not erode the earth.
Seed Lawn Care Rules
- The ideal lawn grass height is 6-8 cm, so mow your lawn regularly. This height prevents the reproduction of pests and weeds, while the green lawn looks beautiful and neat.
- Water the lawn liberally, but no more than once a week.
Too much water promotes grass disease and also erodes the soil. Don't forget to fertilize your grass. - Loosen the soil regularly, especially in autumn. Compacted soil prevents the penetration of water, air and fertilizers to the roots of grasses.
- If you find yourself taking shortcuts across the lawn too often, lay a garden path or paving stones in that area. It is worth understanding the difference between a "natural" path in landscape design and a trampled lawn.
- Check your grass regularly to catch pests and diseases at an early stage.
Conclusion
A well-known English proverb says - "To get a perfect lawn, you need to plant grass and take care of it for a hundred years." There is some truth in every joke, and growing a lawn from seeds is indeed a very difficult and time-consuming task, mistakes made in choosing herbs and caring for them can lead to the fact that you have to start all over again. More and more land owners are asking what to choose: lawn grass or rolled lawn, comparing them in terms of properties and operation.
