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When is the best time to prune a peach tree


Pruning Peach Trees - Alabama Cooperative Extension System

Pruning peach trees is essential to maintaining healthy and productive trees. The effort and attention to detail given during this process will be rewarded in high quality fruit at harvest time, improved vigor and healthy, and long-living trees.

The benefits of pruning peach trees include disease reduction, increased fruit quality, more efficient harvest, and reduction in thinning labor. During an average spring, most peach tree varieties will produce an excessive amount of fruit. The majority of these fruit must be removed to give the remaining fruit an opportunity to reach an acceptable size. This process is called thinning. Fruit thinning is a time-consuming process for most peach growers. Adequate pruning will result in less time spent thinning later in the spring.

When Should Peach Trees Be Pruned?

Peach trees should be pruned as late as possible but before blooming in the spring. Growers with only a few trees may be able to wait until the first of March to prune. However, growers with multiple acres of trees may have to begin pruning several weeks before bloom to ensure the job is completed on time. Pruning early in the winter is not encouraged. Pruning during that time could cause damage and create an environment conducive for diseases such as bacterial canker.

Delaying pruning is also beneficial in the instance of a late season freeze. Removing an excessive amount of wood in the fall or early winter can reduce the cold hardiness of the tree. Trees that are pruned early in the winter and exposed to multiple hard freezes are subject to severe injury. Also, removing an excessive amount of fruiting wood prior to a late freeze could result in a significant crop loss. Leaving all fruiting wood on the tree until after the last freeze will allow the grower to keep wood that was not injured by the freeze and was able to set fruit.

Types of Cuts

There are two types of cuts made when pruning peach trees; thinning cuts and heading cuts.

The following is a description of how a new peach orchard is established using the open center training system. The selection of a training system is paramount. The open center or open vase training system is the most commonly recommended training system for peach tree production.

The objective of open center pruning is to create and maintain an open center or vase shaped tree. Creating an open center will allow increased air movement within the canopy, which will reduce disease pressure and enhance pesticide spray coverage. In addition, the open center will improve sunlight penetration into the canopy, which will create higher quality fruit. Finally, pruning allows growers to maintain trees at manageable heights, reducing the need for ladders during harvest.

At Planting

To create an open center tree, three to five scaffolds must be chosen to form the shape of the tree. Scaffolds are the primary branches that originate from the main trunk of the tree. Once mature, these scaffolds will produce the fruiting wood that will yield peaches during the growing season. Scaffolds should be spaced evenly around the trunk. Most trees will come from the nursery as a 3 to 4 foot bareroot whip with minimal lateral shoots. Once the tree is planted, a heading cut should be made to the main trunk approximately 30 inches above the soil line. This cut will inhibit any terminal growth and will promote lateral growth. The tree will be left to grow and scaffolds will be selected the following year. If a tree is planted that already has lateral branches, three to five scaffolds should be chosen at this time. The scaffolds should be 18 to 24 inches above the soil. All other branches should be removed. Scaffolds should have a wide crotch angle which will allow it to support a heavy crop load. A heading cut should be made to the main trunk just above the upper most scaffold to prevent terminal growth.

Heading cut made on a recently planted whip, selecting five scaffolds and stopping terminal growth.
Heading cut made to recently planted whip with no scaffolds selected. The heading cut will stop terminal growth and encourage lateral growth from the buds below the cut.

Year Two

If scaffolds were not determined during the first pruning, now is the time to select those. Scaffolds should have a wide crotch angle, preferably between 45 and 55 degrees. These are typically found approximately 6 inches below the heading cut that was made at planting. Select the scaffolds and remove all others above the upper most scaffold by making one cut to the main trunk of the tree. Remove any other lateral branches that are not desirable. A heading cut should also be made to branches that have been left as scaffolds, removing approximately ¼ of the branch. This cut should be made at an outward growing bud.

Heading cut made to an outward growing bud to promote growth and direction.

Year Three

Starting the third year, pruning tactics will remain the same every year for that tree. First, remove any damaged or diseased wood, suckers and water-sprouts from the tree. It is important to maintain the open center concept and continue to train scaffolds to the correct angle. Remove any larger branches that are growing from a scaffold back toward the center of the tree. Next remove any upright growth. This will be growth that is growing upward and would shade the shoots below. Also remove any downward growth that will be shaded from the growth above. Make heading cuts to an outward growing bud to promote growth and direction. Cuts should be made to thin out excessive fruiting wood, which will decrease fruit thinning labor, and will help create a more open canopy.

Mature peach tree before pruning.
Mature peach tree after pruning.

One of the best ways to create and maintain a healthy tree is by pruning annually. Correct pruning of peach trees will drastically increase efficiency in terms of harvest and exhibit reduced insect and disease pressure. All aspects of peach orchard management are in some way influenced by pruning. Taking the time to train and maintain trees the correct way will allow a tree to reach its full potential every year of its life.

3 Ways & Time to Do It

July 25, 2022, Atlas Tree TipsTree Management

Pruning a peach tree is not as straightforward as other fruit trees. If the tree is not pruned right, it can turn into a tangled mass, block out sunlight, and create stiff airflow. Also, the pruning time can influence the outcome notably.

So, how and when to prune a peach tree?

Peach trees need to be pruned into an open “V” or vase shape for the optimum outcome. Early spring is the best time to prune peach trees in your backyard. 

Let’s discuss these factors in detail.

Why Should You Prune Your Peach Trees?

Peach trees need slightly less care than other fruit trees. As peaches ripen earlier in the season, various diseases and pests cannot harm the harvest. Also, due to several dwarf varieties of peach trees, harvesting is easier for peach trees.

However, you will need to prune your peach trees annually to promote general tree vigor and yields. Pruning, fertilization, pest management, and irrigation can influence peach tree performance greatly.

Pruning creates a robust framework for your peach tree to support large yields. Also, vegetative growth and fruit production can be balanced when a peach tree is properly pruned. You can control the spread and height of your peach tree for easier harvesting with pruning.

With proper pruning, you can remove broken and diseased branches, suckers, and water sprouts. Therefore, the tree canopy will open up, allowing light and air to penetrate.

Proper tree pruning is an important step in the tree care process for improving its beauty and ensuring that it lives a long and safe life.

If peach trees are not trimmed, they will be more likely to catch diseases, have a shorter life period, and have overproduction, which will reduce the size of the fruit.

Thus, you will need to prune your peach trees properly at the right time.

The Best Time to Prune a Peach Tree

Most fruit-bearing trees need to be pruned when they are dormant. However, for peach trees, pruning in the winter makes them less cold-hardy and susceptible to dieback.

Early spring is the perfect time for you to prune your peach trees. In February, peach buds start to swell and turn pink. You can start pruning your peach trees right then.

However, do not prune your peach trees earlier than in the spring. It is better to wait than prune your plants too early. Pruning at the right time will reduce the chances of pest infestation in your peach trees.

If shoots are developing in the center of your peach trees, you can prune them at any time. These shoots will block air and sun from reaching the fruits and impact your harvest badly. Also, when you prune shoots in the summer, you will have fewer shoots to remove in the following spring.

Ways to Prune a Peach Tree

For the perfect growth of your peach tree. It will allow you to have a better harvest and get larger fruit. So, we will discuss 3 ways you can prune your peach tree:

1. Pruning a Young Peach Tree

It is crucial to start the growth of your peach tree in the right direction, right from planting. Pruning helps you exceptionally in this manner. If you have planted your peach tree in winter, wait a few months before spring appears and the sap begins running.

Prune your peach tree so the lowest branch of the plant is 15 inches (38 cm) from the ground. As your tree grows, the branches will go higher. So, avoid pruning too high from the ground.

The tallest branch of your peach tree should be about 30 inches (76 cm) from the ground. Prune other branches that are taller than 30 inches.

Ideally, all branches of your peach tree should grow at a 45-degree angle. If none of the branches of your tree follow this measurement, trim all the branches but a single bud. Then wait for new buds to grow.

Choose 2 -3 scaffold limbs of your peach tree. Scaffold limbs are the largest branches of your peach tree that begin at the trunk. These limbs should form a radial pattern from the trunk, each facing different directions from other branches. These limbs will house smaller lateral branches as the plant matures.

While pruning, trim the branches close to the tree trunk. This will offer a small collar of growth, preventing decay in the branches. Use thinning cuts for plants that are aged less than a year. If you want to remove part of the branches, use heading cuts. However, when you are pruning younger branches, avoid heading cuts to prevent unwanted water shoot and sucker growth.

2. Pruning a Mature Peach Tree

You will want to prune all the unhealthy and dead growth for a mature peach tree. The following growths of a peach tree can be removed at any time of the year:

So, while pruning your matured peach tree, you will need to choose 4 -6 primary branches and trim off the rest. All those branches are growing up at a 45-degree angle from the trunk.

Remove branches that are growing horizontally or vertically from the plant as they can break easily when bearing fruit. Start pruning your peach tree in a “V” shape pattern. All your branches should mimic the appearance of the letter “V.”

Chop off branches that cross each other to let air and sunlight pass. If done right, your peach tree should look like an open vase with a clear center. It will allow sunlight to enter all places of your plant.

Remove the branches that are growing upwards on your head. These branches will make picking harvest difficult.

Prune your peach tree near the branch base. While cutting branches, make sure you are trimming at the same angle that the branches are growing. Keep ¼ inches from the lateral bud to avoid harming the plant and open for infection.

If any branch exceeds 1-inch diameter, you will need to start with three cuts to prune properly. First, cut halfway up the branch from the underside. Then cut from top-down about one inch further. The branches’ weight will help them break easily. Then make your cut near the branch collar.

Related Article: When it comes to tree maintenance, you must understand the distinction between tree trimming and tree pruning so that you can decide which method is ideal for your trees.

3. Pruning Tools to Prune a Peach Tree

You will need sharp blades and clean cuts when pruning your peach tree. Otherwise, your peach tree can get wounded and be susceptible to fungal diseases.

A professional secateurs or a hand pruner can be the best tool for pruning your peach tree. You will need to ensure that the steel in your pruning tool isn’t rusted and sharp enough to make clean cuts.

You can prune new growths with a pair of bypass secateurs. However, older and larger branches may need a pair of loopers or even a hand saw.

For harvesting, a lightweight telescopic pruner can exceptionally reduce your efforts. You can get a long arm pruner to reach the fruits growing on the high branches. So, here is the list of tools you will need to prune your peach tree properly:

Make sure to look after your pruning tools. You can find tools made from Japanese steel that are popular for their high-quality and heavy-duty services. Also, find tools that allow you to work freely without fatigue.

How Much Pruning Should be Done for a Peach Tree?

Keep 3 -5 large branches of your peach tree growing at a 45-degree angle. Trim other large branches so the existing ones can get enough light, air, water, and other nutrients.

Remove any limbs that are growing inward, horizontal, vertical, or downward. Also, consider removing pencil-sized branches or shoots that are growing straight up or down your plant. Trim the red shoots and remaining fruiting branches around 18 – 24 inches (46 -60 cm) growing outward of the plant.

How to Train Your Peach Tree?

You can use your peach tree to decorate your plain south-facing wall of the vegetable garden trail. As the peach tree can be trained as an espalier or fan shape, these can enhance the aesthetic of your whole backyard. 

You can train your peach tree into a fan shape if your wall is well lit. In this shape, multiple branches will be growing from the base of your peach tree.

On the other hand, especially-shaped peach trees will have a vertical trunk and multiple horizontal tires. The branches here are kept short of increasing the harvest of your peach trees.

It is a good idea to plant your peach trees near a wall. This way, your plant can retain heat to ripen both buds and fruit. Also, the fan structure of your peach tree will keep raindrops off and help your plant avoid leaf kerning.

If your garden doesn’t have enough space, a step-over shape is the best possible way to train your peach tree. It will utilize minimal space and will maximize fruit growth.

Peach Tree Maintenance Tips

For the best possible result for your peach trees, follow these tips to maintain them properly:

Consult an Arborist

Pruning peach trees is essential for healthy growth and a larger harvest. However, your plant can be vulnerable to diseases and fungal growth if not done properly. Therefore, if you are not entirely sure, make sure to consult a professional arborist call at (800) 478-7966 to get help with the tree management job.

With timely and proper pruning, your peach trees will look exceptional, and you will have a better harvest from your peach trees.

How to cut a peach correctly - Flowers.ua

It is difficult to meet a person who would not like juicy peach fruits. But in order to grow them, gardeners will need to make a lot of effort. The peach tree is a rather demanding crop that needs careful and regular care. And pruning is one of the primary procedures, without which you are unlikely to get a well-bearing tree. Even novice flower growers can grow a peach, but if you have any questions, you can always consult with our experts day and night. Also pay attention to bouquets with delivery. Sending flowers in Kyiv and other cities of Ukraine daily

Why pruning is necessary

Peach pruning is necessary for the plant to grow for a long time and bring many juicy and tasty fruits. We all know that representatives of the flora get moisture and nutrients from the soil. Through the roots they pass along the trunk and reach the branches. And if, for example, the cultivation of kiwi is characterized by a stable pace, then in peaches this whole process occurs much faster. In addition, the culture distributes the lion's share of macro- and microelements into vertically growing branches. Because of this, the crown of the tree very quickly becomes thick and lush, but at the same time, the central branches remain deprived of a sufficient amount of sunlight, become bald and not fruitful. And the fruits of the side branches will be too small to call the future harvest rich. Thus, all improperly growing branches must be cut off in time. A well-formed canopy also promotes better “ventilation” of the leaves and makes harvesting a simple and hassle-free process. Well, finally, a neatly cut peach crown looks much more attractive than branches sticking out in different directions. Such a peach tree will become a real gem of your garden.

Peach pruning in spring

Peach pruning in the first warm days of the year is carried out in order to properly form the crown. For all varieties of peach, some “forks” on the branches are very characteristic. But, as a rule, they are quite weak and easily break from sudden gusts of wind. During the winter cold, frost often forms on such branches, which only exacerbates the situation. That is why timely spring pruning is so necessary. And you need to carry it out as soon as you see the first buds on the peach, but always before flowering begins. Focus around the third week of March - mid-April.

It is important that this culture is quite sensitive and shows sharp reactions to any interference in its life. So pruning must be done exclusively with a sharp knife or secateurs. It is also recommended to pre-treat the blades with an antiseptic. When working, try to trim a particular branch in one motion. If the cut radius has a size of more than two centimeters, it is desirable to process it.

As mentioned above, it is in the spring that the crown of the tree is formed. Previously, most gardeners believed that a cup-shaped crown was best suited for peach. However, over the years of practice, growers have realized that this is not entirely true. A spreading cup-shaped crown can only be found in those trees that grow in large areas. The fact is that this form of peach crown takes up too much space, reducing the total number of fruit trees in the garden. The most optimal crown shape is pyramidal.

Spring peach pruning scheme is as follows:

The advantage of spring pruning is that as the buds swell, you can immediately see which of the branches will eventually become the most productive. It is to such branches that you provide the most thorough care. The rest can even be removed altogether.

Summer peach pruning

Many gardeners don't use summer peach pruning as much as spring pruning. But it also has its undoubted advantages and goals. Pruning is necessary at the beginning of summer, preferably from the second half of June until the 15th of July. It is during this period of time that the fruits form bones.

Summer peach pruning includes the following steps:

Summer peach pruning can be called preventive and shaping. You can do without it, but still it is better not to neglect it. Do everything according to the rules, and juicy, large peaches are provided to you.

Peach pruning in autumn

Peach pruning in autumn is nothing more than preparing a peach tree for the coming winter. As you know, this culture grows mainly in the southern regions of Ukraine, where winters can be called relatively mild. But still the peach is very thermophilic. And the cultivation of peach, like the cultivation of pineapple, is unthinkable without preparation for frost.

So, the scheme of preparing a peach tree for winter is as follows:

Autumn pruning should begin after the harvest, which will be around mid-October. It is during this period of the year that the active growth and development of the peach ends, and the tree painlessly endures all the procedures carried out by gardeners.

Peach pruning schemes

There are several schemes for peach tree pruning. These schemes are divided into categories, depending on the reception, the age of the plant and some other features.

Ring pruning

Ring pruning is carried out in order to rejuvenate and restore a peach after an illness. Under the ring - this means under the very foundation. At the base of the tree trunk there is an annular outgrowth, which is responsible for active cell division. Thus, pruning according to this scheme allows the tree to quickly and actively regenerate

Cutting pattern for the ring:

  1. Treat the ring-shaped growth itself and your tool (hacksaw, secateurs) with an antiseptic solution.
  2. Leave 0.5 cm above the branch line. Put a mark on this place.
  3. Make a shallow cut just below the mark.
  4. Cut the entire branch 30 centimeters above the mark. Cut the branch carefully so that it does not break off abruptly and drag part of the healthy tree bark down with it.
  5. Next, cut it exactly to the mark.
  6. Apply a special healing mixture to the cut, which is available at any gardening store.

It is impossible to prune clearly along the annular growth, as it is possible to break the educational tissue in the trunk and roots, which will lead to the death of the plant.

Bud pruning

Bud pruning can not only form a beautiful crown, but also prevent it from growing too much. It is carried out by partial removal of the branch, based on the number of buds that must be left. The disadvantages of this method are that it is quite traumatic for the peach and the cuts heal for a long time.

Pruning pattern for a bud:

  1. Clean with alcohol the area of ​​the branch where you are going to cut, as well as the garden tool itself.
  2. Find out for yourself exactly how many kidneys should remain and measure 0.5 centimeters upwards from the topmost one. Put a label.
  3. Thirty centimeters up from this mark, cut the branch completely.
  4. You can now cut where the mark is.
  5. Apply healing solution to the cut.

If you want to make the crown not so dense, but lush, then trim to the outer bud (which grows outward, not deep into the crown). And if you want the branches not to be very lowered to the ground, do pruning, on the contrary, on the inner kidney.

Replacement knot pruning

Replacement knot pruning allows you to form a beautiful and healthy crown, as well as to ensure that the same branches bear fruit year after year, which will grow in the places the grower wishes. This can be done by cutting off excess shoots on the frame branch.

Substitute pruning pattern:

  1. Cut the branch using the bud method and leave two eyes.
  2. In a year, when two shoots grow from these eyes, pinch only the lower one - it will be the replacement knot.
  3. And cut off the top shoot to two eyes - it will turn into a fruitful branch.

Replacement pruning must be done every year. By the way, grapes are cut in exactly the same way.

Kerbovka

This technique allows you to activate dormant buds or, on the contrary, slow down their development. Kerbovka is easy to make - you just need to cut a small part of the bark above or below the kidney. This technique is quite humane and will not stress the plant. Kerbovka must be carried out in early spring, so that the kidneys do not have time to wake up.

Kerbing Chart:

  1. Find the bud that needs to be worked on.
  2. If you need to "stir up" it, make an incision above it, and if you "lull it" - then below it.
  3. In any case, the distance between the kidney and the incision should not be more than 3 mm.
  4. The incision itself should be relatively deep, and not just on the bark. Make it in the form of a strip, a semicircle or a cross. The thicker the branch, the more elongated the incision.

Pruning at planting

If the peach seedling is very young, up to a year old, it is better not to cut at planting. The young tree is still too fragile to endure such intrusions into its life. Let the peach first get used to the new habitat, otherwise there is a risk that the tree will die after pruning. That is why experienced gardeners say that pruning should be done only when the peach tree is a year old after planting. So, if planted in the fall, you can cut it in the spring of next year. Use the pinching method - it is the least traumatic. Leave a pair of buds on each upper branch, and carefully cut off the top.

Pruning in the first year of life

Pruning in the first year of life will give you the opportunity to form a beautiful crown exactly the shape you want. The most common and convenient form for harvesting the future crop is bowl-shaped. If you do not want to engage in laborious peach pruning in the first year of life, you can purchase a tree immediately with a formed crown.

Peach pruning technique in the first year of life in case of choosing a cupped crown:

  1. If you notice that the seedling has grown too quickly, it should be shortened to 50-60 centimeters.
  2. The total number of tiers should be three or four, and the same number of frame branches on each.
  3. Cut them to the outer buds.
  4. If there are heavily lowered branches, they can be tied to the top ones.
  5. Pinching off the green shoots on the skeletal branches throughout the summer.
  6. In autumn, also cut back to the same level as for summer pruning.

Second year pruning

In the second year of life, the peach will begin its active growth, and it will need to be pruned regularly throughout the summer. And in autumn and spring, just try to maintain the initially selected height level, cutting off only the very top. You also need to remove side shoots and see which buds you want to keep. Follow exactly the same pattern if your peach tree is three or four years old.

Pruning in the fifth year of life

A five-year-old peach tree is already a fairly mature plant, however, it needs regular rejuvenation. Every year, cut off the top shoots from the tree that have grown longer than ten centimeters, and the new shoots that have grown on the frame branches - they will become fruit-bearing competitors. Pruning in the fifth year of life will help make this fruit tree longer.

Peach care after pruning

The peach tree needs careful care after pruning. All cuts need to be well processed. Most gardeners prefer to use not the well-known garden variety, but oil paint as a treatment solution. The fact is that the var can let in moisture, which can cause rotting. But oil paint is an excellent sealant. Before processing the sections, it is advisable to apply a disinfectant solution to them. For example, copper sulfate. Give it a few minutes to dry before moving on to the next step.

Helpful tips

  1. When pruning, keep in mind that all productive branches grow at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. This will help you at work.
  2. When pruning peach branches, leave at least two buds on each.
  3. If you want to rejuvenate a peach and return it to a high yield, cut absolutely all branches that are more than four years old.
  4. After planting a peach tree, leave only the four lower shoots on it, and cut off the rest. It is from these four that the future crown will be formed.
  5. If you want to cup the crown shape, don't skip the spring pruning.

Proper peach pruning and tree care after it is a rather time-consuming and responsible task. However, your diligence and diligence will be encouraged by a rich harvest and longevity of a fruit-bearing tree.

in spring, autumn and summer in August, pruning scheme

Peach is a whimsical crop and requires special attention. One of the main conditions for the successful cultivation of a peach orchard is the correct formation of trees.

But any manipulation of the pruner must be done correctly, in a timely manner and be justified. All the secrets of “green surgery” are in this material.

Contents

Can peach trees be pruned and why?

Any horticultural crop is pruned to increase fruiting time and yield. And the peach is also cut in order to increase its resistance to adverse climatic conditions.

The winter hardiness of the plant directly depends on the method of formation of the tree crown . For example, a peach formed by a “spindelbush” (“spindle”) will winter wonderfully in the south - in Cherkessk or Makhachkala, but already in the Krasnodar Territory, Rostov-on-Don it can freeze. Here it is better to grow it with a “bowl”.

In Central Russia, peach branches should be lowered even lower and form a bush. And in more severe conditions, even lay it horizontally - in a slate.

In addition to shaping, peach is “assigned” to regulating, restorative, rejuvenating and sanitary pruning.

In addition to shaping, peach is given a regulating, restorative, rejuvenating and sanitary pruning

Choosing the right time: in spring, summer or autumn?

Peach pruning starts from the 2nd year of life . By this time, the plant is already “opening” - it has several side shoots. Of these, future skeletal branches are selected.

It doesn't make much sense to start pruning earlier. Of course, pinching the tip will stimulate the growth of side branches.

However, if you cut off too much, the shoots will go at a sharp angle to the guide. It will take extra time to fix such a tree.

Peach is one of the crops that need to be cut in spring, summer and autumn .

The best time for peach pruning in spring is “by rosebud”, for summer pruning at the end of June, for autumn pruning after harvest.

Spring Formation of the seedling crown. Restorative pruning with removal of frozen shoots. Rejuvenating pruning of old trees.
Summer Removal of dead shoots unnoticed in spring. Shortening of weak fruitful branches. Thinning "tops" and removal of thickening shoots. Sanitary pruning of shoots affected by diseases and pests. Shortening the gains of the current year for their better maturation.
Autumn Sanitary pruning of diseased shoots. Removal of branches broken off by the crop.

Experienced peach growers recommend counting the branches remaining after autumn pruning. There should be no more than eighty.

Summer, spring and autumn pruning schedule

In any season, it is important to choose the right time for pruning . Wet weather, rain, dew contribute to the penetration of infection into saw cuts and cuts. Therefore, the operation should be scheduled on a dry, clear day.

Minimum set of tools and trimming materials includes:

  • secateurs;
  • lopper;
  • garden knife;
  • garden file;
  • blue vitriol;
  • garden putty.

Before the operation, the entire instrument must be disinfected with any fungicide or simply boiling water, and then wiped dry.

Before pruning, tools must be disinfected with any fungicide, just boiling water, wiped dry

Scheme of spring peach pruning:

  1. When forming a “bowl”, a bole height of about 50 cm is measured for a two-year-old seedling.
  2. Three skeletal branches are defined, located at a large angle to the conductor and directed in different directions. They are shortened by 2 kidneys so that the top looks outward.
  3. The conductor is cut above the upper side branch. Excess shoots are removed on the ring.
  4. Older trees are examined for overwintered shoots. Broken and frozen are removed.
  5. To rejuvenate a peach, remove all branches with wood older than 4 years.

Summer Peach Pruning Chart:

  1. Inspect the tree for any remaining dead shoots. If any are found, remove them.
  2. Inspection of annual growth. Growing vertically upward or deep into the crown is removed.
  3. The remaining increments are pinched.
  4. Inspect fruitful branches. If some weak and thin tied up a big crop, you need to shorten them, and thin out the ovaries.
  5. Diseased shoots are removed.

Fall Peach Pruning Chart:

  1. Remove dry, diseased and broken branches.
  2. Too long and thin shoots that have not had time to mature are shortened by half.
  3. If root shoots appear, cut them out.

In regions with severe winters, autumn pruning should be limited to sanitary pruning only. Multiple open wounds reduce the winter hardiness of the peach.

If a peach seedling was planted in autumn and did not survive the winter well , in spring it can beat off the side shoots from the lower dormant buds on the stem.

In this case, bush shaping can be done by cutting off the frozen central conductor at a height of 4-5 cm above the upper live bud.

How to care after the procedure?

Peach must be carefully cared for after pruning. All wounds must be treated . Many peach growers prefer to use oil paint instead of traditional garden pitch as putty.

Sections smeared with pitch sometimes rot due to moisture. Oil paint seals no worse, and does not cause decay. Also is a good tool - RanNet paste .

For better drying, healing and disinfection of , the wound can be treated with a 3% solution of copper sulfate before the putty. It is applied with a clean sponge and left for 1-1.5 hours. After that, garden putty is used.

Growing and care

In addition to regular pruning, peach needs watering, fertilizing and treatments against pests and diseases.

Spring Top dressing 0.5 liter of fermented mullein infusion per 10 liter bucket of water. A week later - a liter jar of wood ash.
Spraying If a peach was heavily attacked by pests last season, the tree is sprayed with Calypso. Processing is performed twice: on dormant buds and after flowering. During flowering, the insecticide can harm pollinators.
Watering With a small amount of melt water - 10 days before flowering.
Summer Top dressing Foliar top dressing with a solution of Zdraven-Akva complex fertilizer for fruit trees.
Spraying Treat with insecticides and fungicides as needed. At the end of August - potassium foliar top dressing "Plantafol" to accelerate the maturation of wood.
Watering With a lack of natural precipitation, as the soil dries out, it is shed to a depth of up to 60 cm. Watering is stopped 2 weeks before the fruit is harvested.
Yield rationing At the beginning of fruit ripening, the ovaries are examined and the ability of the tree to “bear and feed” them is assessed. If there are too many ovaries, thinning should be done.
Autumn Top dressing Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers only. nitrogen is excluded.
Watering Moisture-charging watering is required. Leaving a peach for wintering in dry soil is unacceptable - the root system freezes out.
Winterization Whitewash the bole with “Gardener” lime paste.
In severe winters with little snow - the creation of additional dry shelters: reed or corn huts, agrospan caps.

Mandatory peach care activities also include constant care of the tree trunks : weeding, loosening, mulching with a thick layer of organic matter: chopped bark, lying sawdust, mowed grass, mature compost.

Do not use hay as mulch - rodents like to settle in it.

Mulching eliminates the need for frequent watering, even in dry summers, by preventing evaporation and crust formation. Organic mulch will provide the plant with nitrogen and carbon dioxide when it decomposes.

Mandatory peach care activities also include constant care of the trunk circle: weeding, loosening, mulching

Summer grafting, budding: how to graft a peach on a plum, apricot, etc.

Another important “green operation” could be peach grafting. The need for it appears in cases where:

  • there was a severe winter, the wood was frozen, but the root is alive;
  • the tree has been badly broken off by winds, snow, or a bountiful harvest;
  • self-fertile, needs a pollinator but no place to plant it;
  • has a suitable seedling for a rootstock and a desire to propagate a favorite variety.

bitter almond, wild apricot, Manchurian peach, wild cherry plum are suitable as peach rootstock. If there is none of this on the site, you can plant a peach on a plum - these crops have good compatibility.

Graft the peaches either in early spring, before bud break, or in early summer. If the grafting will be carried out with a “split” cutting or by the copulation method, it is better to do this in the spring. For beginning "garden surgeons" it is better to practice on summer grafting with eyes.

Budding is done in the crown of the rootstock or on the stem of a young seedling according to the following scheme:

  1. An actively growing green shoot is cut from a suitable plant. All leaves are removed from it, but petioles are left.
  2. A good bud is selected from the middle part of the shoot and a “shield” is cut off - a section of the cortex with the cambium and the bud itself. The length of the shield is about 2.5-3 cm.
  3. The bark is cut in a T-shape on the rootstock and bent slightly to the sides. The cambium does not need to be touched.
  4. The shield is inserted into the incision, covered with bark so that the kidney remains outside.
  5. Winding is performed from the bottom up in a spiral, bypassing the kidney.

You can wrap the grafting site with the back (non-adhesive) side of ordinary electrical tape or adhesive tape.

Bitter almond, wild apricot, Manchurian peach, wild cherry plum, plum are suitable as rootstock for peach

After 7-10 days , according to the condition of the petiole, it is judged whether the eye takes root. If the petiole turns yellow and falls off when touched with a finger, the bud has taken root. If it turns black and rots, the grafting failed.

If successful, after 1-2 months, you can remove the winding . If the vaccination was carried out in a trunk, it would be right to spud a tree for the winter. So it will be possible to protect the kidney from freezing or damage by rodents.

In the spring, the earth is raked and the grafting site is treated with 3% Bordeaux mixture.

In order for a peach to feel good and fruit abundantly, care for it must be comprehensive and regular .

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